Why is it impossible to have a water floor in the apartment. How to make underfloor heating from central heating in an apartment

One of the controversial issues in the repair is the dilemma, but do you need a warm floor in an ordinary apartment? After all, it would seem that central heating should be more than enough. Why spend money and fence something superfluous.

As it turns out, this type of heating is really needed. It is only necessary to know exactly where and in what specific areas to lay it.

By and large, a warm floor is not at all what it is used to be considered. In professional construction, a warm floor is a rough coating separated from a cold base with one or more layers of insulation.

For example, a real warm floor in any of your rooms can be divided into three main components:

bars

mineral wool

chipboard layer

Moreover, if you lay a heating cable or infrared film between the chipboard and the finished floor, in this case they will be just heating.

But for most of us, this association has already firmly taken root in our minds - pipes with hot water or a heating cable + screed or tile.

We are accustomed to call this design a warm floor. Therefore, we will not deviate from the usual names for all.

There are three main rules when warm floors are simply necessary for you in an ordinary apartment. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Radiators and underfloor heating

Rule #1

If it is possible to replace conventional radiators with underfloor heating of the same type, use this opportunity to the maximum.

Just pay attention to the phrase - " I have an opportunity”.

If you live in a standard apartment on some floor, neither the neighbors nor the rules will allow you to replace the usual batteries with a water floor. This is prohibited by SNiP.

You will have to do either infrared, or lay a heating cable or mats.

There are two main reasons for the ban:

such a floor is not allowed to be embedded in the central heating system

and it can not be placed above any living quarters that are below you

But if you live on the first floor, and no one lives under you and there are no electrical rooms, then feel free to go ahead. The same applies if you have a private house.

In all these cases, water floors will beat radiators in all respects.

Firstly, such heating has much better energy efficiency.

This means that it can heat a larger area with less energy.

Secondly, a warm floor evenly warms the air throughout the entire volume of the room. But the batteries heat the air only nearby.

Thirdly, when heating devices are not visible, because they simply do not exist, all rooms look much more aesthetic and beautiful.

Fourthly, this is easy cleaning and the absence of interfering batteries, pipes, bends, etc.

Well, the most important thing is comfort. All radiators heat the air from the side and from above. At the same time, the floor itself, including under the batteries, remains cold.

With radiators, you will be moving on a cold floor with temperatures up to 19 degrees, while your head will be located in an area where it is more than 25C. To call it comfortable conditions, well, you can’t.

Of course, you can, as they say, fry the batteries to the maximum, but still you and your children will be forced to walk around the rooms in slippers.

At the same time, you can forget about a comfortable sleep in such a room. Moreover, even during the day it will not be very comfortable in it.

first of all it's too hot

secondly, the air will be dry

But when the heating rises from below, from the floor itself, then much less temperature is required to warm the entire room. This proves its effectiveness over other heat sources of the same type.

Thus, we can sum up the main result of all of the above:

water heated floor - better than standard radiators

heating mats or cable are more efficient than oil radiators

infrared floor - better than infrared heaters

Underfloor heating as primary heating

However, again, let us recall the main phrase from the rule - “if possible”. The fact is that if you live in a very cold climate, where the temperature in winter often drops below minus 20-30 degrees, you should not completely abandon batteries.

In such frosts, it will not be possible to simply increase the temperature on the water floor coolant or turn it up with a heating cable regulator.

Sanitary standards have limited the surface temperature of underfloor heating.

for premises with permanent stay of people - 26 degrees

with temporary stay - 31 degrees

The fact is that when this temperature rises above the norm, convective heat fluxes begin to actively rise.

And they pull up all the dust from below. Accordingly, a person who constantly lives under such conditions will eventually develop various respiratory diseases.

Of course, no one in your apartment or house can forbid you to set the temperature higher. Whether it is at least + 40C, at least + 70C.

But if your temperature drops below minus 25C for only a few days throughout the winter, then you shouldn’t block radiators because of this. It is possible at this time to increase the temperature of the floors.

However, in addition to comfort, always remember about your health and the health of your loved ones.

And remember once and for all - the use of underfloor heating as the only and main source of heating is recommended only in energy-efficient houses and apartments, or in houses located in regions with a relatively temperate and warm climate.

Ceramic tile

Second rule

All areas with ceramic tiles must be heated without fail.

This is due to the high thermal conductivity of the tile itself. If you put your hand on any board in the apartment, it will seem to you that it is a little warm.

And if you put your palm against the metal door of the refrigerator or an unheated oven, then you will feel some kind of coolness.

However, their temperature will be exactly the same - room temperature. Iron things always seem much cooler because they have a higher thermal conductivity. That is, they give their temperature to your hand faster.

Thus, we exchange temperature with any object with which we come into contact. However, you can warm up small objects and things - watches, clothes, a chain with your body, but a layer of concrete with tiles will never work.

On the one hand, the coolness from ceramic tiles seems slightly pleasant, but it all ends up in diseases.

And another important point is the following. Mostly the tile is laid not because it will last a long time, but because of its moisture resistance.

For example, they put it in the hallway. Come in from the street in wet shoes and immediately put them on the tiles.

It is hard to imagine a bathroom without tiles on the floor. At the same time, you can safely spill water in it, without fear of subsequent swelling of this floor.

However, after you have spilled this water, it still has to be removed. And in order to dry the bathroom, it is not enough just to turn on the exhaust fan.

It also needs to be warmed up so that mold fungus does not start on the walls over time.

Loggia heating

Someone demolishes the jumper and combines the balcony with the apartment, increasing its area. But the temperature of the floor does not change much from this. He was as cold as he was, and he will remain so.

If you rely on neighbors from below who will insulate their loggia, and thereby indirectly help you with keeping warm. I dare to upset you.

It will still be cold on your balcony. With a quality repair of the loggia, a heater is attached to the ceiling. Therefore, your stove turns out to be isolated and will not warm up at the expense of a neighbor.

Therefore, it doesn’t matter if your neighbors have a warm balcony or a cold one, this will affect your floor in a minimal way. You will still be cold.

And no matter how powerful the convector is, by analogy with the batteries in the apartment itself, it will again heat only the upper layers of the air, without affecting the floors at all.

Therefore, summing up the question, is there a need for underfloor heating in the apartment, we can give an unequivocal answer - yes, it is definitely needed.

But there are several types of these warm floors, so if you want to know which one to choose in certain situations, and how much money you will pay for such heating, read about it in detail in the articles on the links below.

← Protection devices UZM 51MD and UZIS S1 40. Comparison, specifications, connection diagrams.

If during the autumn-winter cold the room still remains cool, you should think about how to keep warm using radical methods. Today, such an opportunity as the installation of a warm floor with a liquid heat carrier has proven itself well. The water heated floor system in the apartment is gradually replacing classic heaters and fans.

The device of a warm water floor in the apartment

A water heated floor in an apartment is a self-sufficient design and effectively heats a room of any size even in severe frosts. Polymer pipes circulate warm liquid coming from a gas boiler or central heating system. The air in the room heats up, and rising up, evenly distributes heat over the entire area of the room.

This allows you to create the most optimal and comfortable conditions, thanks to which you can not be afraid of hypothermia of the legs, at the same time, the temperature near the ceiling decreases slightly. Doctors say that such a thermal regime is the most suitable for good health.

This type of structure is:

flooring (laminate, tiles, etc.);
laying layer;
a pump that circulates water;
heater;
polymer pipes;
fasteners and distribution manifolds.

This heating option increases the service life of the finishing floor covering, and makes it possible to apply original design solutions in the interior.

Is it possible to make a water heated floor

Not infrequently, the question arises whether it is possible to make a water-heated floor in multi-storey buildings? Today, legislative acts prohibit changes that relate to various improvements in piping schemes in housing stock where there is central heating. It can give an increased load, which was not taken into account at the time of designing the house. Forced circulation and a rather complicated installation of a special pump will be required.

But, theoretically, such systems can be mounted in any room, the main thing is not to disturb the balance of the water flow and observe the conditions for dosing heat consumption. In addition, in new buildings, the layout provides for the presence of risers for connecting TVP.

To make the installation of the structure in the apartment legal - special permits from the representative of the housing and communal services and heating networks will help. The necessary documents will be issued only after checking the premises and agreeing on the equipment necessary for further use. Unauthorized connection of a warm floor threatens with fines, litigation and other troubles:

if necessary, it will not be possible to legally sell the apartment;
if there is a break in the circuit and the apartment of the neighbors below suffers, all repair costs will have to be paid in full.

Before you make a water heated floor in an apartment, you should calculate the possible consequences and negative risks, take into account the positive and negative qualities of this modernization.

Advantages and disadvantages of a water heated floor

In comparison with alternative heating systems, a warm water floor stands out with a number of undeniable advantages.

Profitability. Water, which has a low temperature, reduces heat consumption in residential buildings by 20-30%. In spacious rooms with ceiling heights above average, the savings reach about 60%.
Security. The heating elements hide the screed and the flooring layer. The risk of burns and injury is completely eliminated. This also applies to facts involving long contacts with a warm surface. The probability of the appearance of the fungus is reduced to zero, since there are no areas of increased dampness.
Convenience. It is very pleasant to walk on such a floor without indoor slippers, and you can also not worry about the health of children who want to play on the floor.
The humidity level practically does not change, the air does not dry out. The room warms up evenly, which allows you to obtain temperature conditions that are optimal for a person.
Visually aesthetic interior. The system does not affect the overall design of the room, which cannot be said about traditional batteries and pipes. All parts and devices of the heating structure are hidden from prying eyes; redevelopment can be easily done. Radiators do not have to be hidden behind drywall panels or replaced with new ones.

In the process of using a water-heated floor from central heating, it requires lower costs than an electric one. The system practically does not require maintenance, and during installation all the necessary norms of sanitary, hygienic and environmental safety rules are observed.

Among the disadvantages are:

high cost and complexity of installation - the basis of a multilayer structure includes several types of materials;
the likelihood of a possible leak of pipes - you can find and fix the problem only by fully raising the floor covering;
slow heating of the screed - this method is only suitable for rooms in which they live permanently.

Installation of a water heated floor in an apartment is not always possible. Some rooms will require the installation of additional heating sources (convectors or radiators).

Preparing for work on installing a water-heated floor in an apartment

Before starting work on installing a water-heated floor in an apartment from heating, you should calculate the amount of materials that will be needed to organize the system. To do this, it will be necessary to evaluate the characteristics of the finish coating, the area and features of the room (maintained temperature, window features, wall material, etc.). If there is a strong draft in the room, it is advisable to start insulating it first.

It is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the pipes used for the circulation of the liquid acting as a heat carrier. Today the following types are most popular:

foam;
metal-plastic;
copper;
corrugated stainless steel

The length of the harvested pipes is affected by the laying method - a snail or a snake. The first option, despite the complexity of design and installation, is more efficient. In such a system, pipes with relatively hot and cool water alternate in series, evenly distributing warm air throughout the room.

Installation of the underfloor heating system

The device of a warm water floor in an apartment must begin with careful surface preparation. Construction debris should be removed and the base leveled. The horizontal plane should not have differences exceeding 5 mm. Otherwise, coolant stagnation zones are formed, as a result of which the structure may fail. There are three options for installing this heating system.

Concrete water floor heating system

The most popular installation method, in which a cement-sand screed is the main material in the base and distribution layer. A film is laid on the concrete layer, which provides thermal and waterproofing. Then, a special tape is glued around the perimeter of the room, which will prevent cracks and absorb the expansion of the screed when the circuit is heated.

On top of the thermal insulation, special grids with cells are mounted, and pipes are connected to them. It is important to correctly calculate the distance between them, it depends on how evenly the incoming heat will be distributed. Recommended laying step:

in cold zones (near windows, doors) - 10 cm;
in rooms with normal heat loss - 20-30 cm;
in cold rooms - 15 cm.

For spacious rooms, a reinforcing mesh is used during installation. It is not recommended to lay pipes where furniture can be installed.

Structural elements are fixed, powered and maintained for several days. If there is no damage, fill the carrier layer with a mixture with the addition of cement, sand and plasticizers.

Then the final flooring is laid. If the laying of the water heating system in the apartment must be done under ceramic tiles, then the screed should not be wider than five centimeters.

Wooden floor heating system

Polystyrene underfloor heating system

Do-it-yourself water-heated floor in an apartment can be made using special heat-insulating plates. Products are distinguished by a special form of pressing and have the appearance of convex circles. They are the best suited for quick and convenient installation of pipes. The plates are securely interlocked with locks at the edges, thanks to which it is possible to create a monolith around the entire perimeter of the floor.

Is it possible to make water heated floors on your own without resorting to the help of specialists? This option is possible, but several recommendations should be taken into account.

When arranging the heating structure, it is necessary to completely dismantle the old finish up to the concrete screed.
Replace metal pipes (if any) with a plastic counterpart, this will avoid rust at the joints.
Reliable waterproofing from a trusted manufacturer will save the floor from possible leaks.
When installing insulation, be sure to glue the seams between the sheets with metallized tape. An additional layer of waterproofing will minimize all possible risks of leakage.
If a laminate or natural wood was used as a finishing coating, the temperature of the coolant should be increased gradually. With a sharp jump, the material may be damaged, which will significantly reduce its service life.
The water heated floor in the apartment from heating must be installed so that when the circuit is turned off, the coolant circulates in the central system. Filling the screed or laying the thermal distribution plates is necessary only on the filled system.

Features of operation and probable errors

When you connect a warm floor, the temperature in the apartment rises for a long time. It takes time for the floor, walls and air in the room to warm up, so installation should begin before the onset of the first cold weather.

During installation, certain errors are often made:

independent connection to the riser - the pipe is constantly filled with coolant, to start work you need to get a special permit and completely drain the water;
the impossibility of adjusting the temperature - you need to install a water collector and a mixing unit;
lack of a project - you should not start work without determining the layout of pipes and dividing an apartment or house into heating zones;
materials and components from different manufacturers - this common mistake can cause rapid depressurization of the structure.

Installation of such a system as a warm water floor is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. But, if you wish, you can handle the installation yourself, without involving specialists. The main thing is to obtain the necessary permission and strictly follow the recommendations for working with the materials used. However, so that the question of how to make a water-heated floor in apartments does not cause unnecessary financial costs, it is better to seek qualified help.

The increase in prices for the supply of hot water makes people look for a more economical way to heat their apartment. One of these methods - water heated floors in the apartment will be discussed in more detail, namely, how to properly make a warm floor.

Laying of warm flooring and warm water floors in an apartment in European countries has been done since the 80s of the last century. In Austria, Switzerland and Germany, a water heated floor in an apartment is installed in 60% of houses. Different energy sources are connected to heating for underfloor heating:

infrared emitters;
heating electric cables;
PLEN device, films with built-in electric spiral and others.

The warm floor and the technology of its execution in this case provides for heating through the laid with hot liquid, most often it is water, sometimes antifreeze or antifreeze is used. Laying a water-heated floor requires laying pipes evenly over the floor surface.

During circulation, the liquid in the heating system passes through a centralized heating source, gives off heat to the concrete, and then the air is heated. The technology of laying a water-heated floor provides for heating water with an autonomous boiler, or heated floors in an apartment are connected from central heating. In both cases, the inclusion and installation of a water-heated floor can be done by hand.

Modern technologies simplify the installation of a water-heated floor. Pipes are used, the configuration of which is based on the molecular memory of cross-linked polyethylene. This reduced the cost of materials, the connection scheme for a water-heated floor and the installation technology became simpler, and reliability increased.

Installing and pouring a warm floor is not a difficult process; it is quite possible to make a warm water floor with your own hands. For this, several methods and special materials have been developed. People are interested in how to connect the warm floor of the room to the heating system, how to implement this project on their own.

Pipe length calculation

How to calculate the length and lay pipes on a water heated floor with underfloor heating will be discussed below. There are several options for how pipes for heating should be installed in a water-heated floor: in the shape of a snail or in straight parallel lines, in other ways. But everywhere the main requirement is met.

The pipes are distributed evenly, the total length covering a certain area depends on the step between them. To fulfill the conditions for heating with underfloor heating, it is necessary to correctly calculate the length of the pipe. To simplify the process, the pipe consumption calculated for different options is summarized in the table.

Underfloor heating pipe consumption depending on the loop pitch

Using the table, it is easy to understand how to do the calculations yourself. With a room area of 20 m and a laying step of 20 cm, the length (L) will be equal to 20 m 2 multiplied by 5 linear / m, which will be 100 m. The length of the warm coating circuit should not exceed 70 m, this is due to the effective circulation of the coolant through the pipeline and pump capacities. With an excess of a pipe in a circuit of 70 m, warm floors are not effective, then how to make the right choice?

The pitch is set to 300 mm. Length (L) \u003d 20 m 2 * 3.4 linear / m \u003d 68 m. This fully meets all the requirements. Several lines are installed in a large room, but individual contours of a warm coating should not exceed 70 m. Using powerful pumps, it is possible to connect a warm water floor circuit up to 120 m.

Laying technology for a warm floor clearly defines how to fill in a warm water floor. There are ready-made mixtures that remain to be diluted with water at the concentration indicated by the instructions. In some cases, a water-heated floor is made without a screed when the floor is plywood. If chipboard is laid: laminate, parquet, linoleum, it is not necessary to fill the warm floor with a screed solution. A dry screed is successfully used for a warm water floor.

Before pouring and installing flooring, pipes are checked for leaks. A special compressor is used, water is pumped into the pipes under a pressure of 6 bar, the process is called pressure testing. If the pressure has not dropped by more than 1.5 bar within 24 hours, the heating circuit is leak-tight. Incorrectly made underfloor heating, poor-quality installation can lead to the need to dismantle the floor covering.

Main advantages

In relation to the old technology with radiator batteries, the new technique has a number of advantages:

Heated layer at the level of human feet. The feet are warm, the head is moderately cool - this stimulates the human body to active life.
The time-consuming procedure for removing dust in hard-to-reach places of radiators is excluded.
Uneven heating stimulated colds. In the case of warm floors, all these shortcomings are absent, the surface is easily swept and washed;
Space is freed up, there is no need to think through options for how to fit pipes into the interior of the room;
Installation work has become much easier;
Carrying out work, the main elements of the system are cheaper. To heat the room, the temperature in the pipes is 55 ̊С and not more than 60-70 ̊С. Installation and further operation of underfloor heating is cheaper by 30%. Therefore, many people appeared who wanted to learn how to make a water heated floor.

Underfloor heating from central heating

Organizational matters

Many residents of apartments want to dismantle the batteries or, in addition, connect a warm floor from central heating to them. Before starting such a reconstruction, it is necessary to resolve organizational issues, namely, to coordinate the project with the management company that services the house.

Unauthorized connection to the central heating system is punishable by very high fines, in addition, they will subsequently be forced to dismantle all installed equipment.

The difficulty in the question of how to make a warm floor from heating is the process of obtaining permission. The difficulty is that most boiler houses operate at the limit of the calculated capacity or have a small margin. Several apartments can be connected, with a mass connection, the central system will not be able to function normally.

Connecting a water heated floor to a heating system has some technical difficulties. It depends on the design of the central system. So, in schemes with direct supply through one pipe, there are no options for connecting. Where the coolant circulates along the contour of the pipes in the forward and reverse direction, connection is possible.

In many ways, the location of the heat exchanger affects the decision of the management company. When the heat exchanger is located at the bottom, residents of the upper floors are more likely to get a permit, and vice versa. After obtaining permission, you can purchase equipment and proceed with the installation of the floor from the central heating.

Wiring diagram

Before pouring, the entire laying scheme is checked for tightness of the warm water floor. Depending on the length of the circuit and the diameter of the pipes, the pump power is selected. The laying scheme for a warm floor includes the following main elements:

Valves at the inlet to the underfloor heating circuit;
check valve;
Three-way control valve (thermal head);
Circulation pump;
Coolant temperature control sensor;
Collector for underfloor heating;
Plastic pipes.

The scheme for installing a water-heated floor begins with connecting the central heating system to the return line. Two valves are cut in to drain the forward and reverse flow of the underfloor heating system. They are designed so that at any time it is possible to turn off the water and carry out repairs or maintenance of elements in the underfloor heating line.

The check valve ensures the movement of the coolant fluid in one direction. Of great importance in the system is a three-way valve, it distributes hot and cold flows, mixing them until the desired temperature is reached. Sometimes this device is called a thermal head. The temperature of the water entering the warm floors from the central system can reach 70 ̊С, this is too much, for normal operation no more than 50 ̊С is required. The thermal head reduces the temperature to the value set on it, usually 40-45 ̊С.

The circulation pump ensures the circulation of water within the circuit in a given direction. Temperature sensors indicate the temperature of the coolant. There are automatic control systems that combine the operation of sensors and three-way valves, but this topic requires a separate, more extensive description.

A collector for a warm floor distributes heat carrier flows through pipes of different circuits. The return line underfloor heating collectors collect the cooled flows, directing them to a three-way valve, where the liquid is distributed by a thermal head for further circulation in a closed circuit, maintaining the temperature set in it. Manufacturers make collectors for underfloor heating from various materials:

Brass products are durable and strong, withstand high pressure, they are universal for any type of pipe;
Underfloor heating collectors made of copper withstand the highest pressures up to 30 bar and high temperatures in heating systems. Often used in circuits where oil, antifreeze or antifreeze can be used as a coolant.
Stainless steel parts are in the highest demand due to reasonable prices and good technical characteristics, satisfying installations in apartments.

Three way valve design

The heating system, to which underfloor heating is connected, necessarily includes a three-way valve, its design and principle of operation require detailed consideration. In fact, the valve works like a hot and cold water mixer, you can make it warmer or colder.

When the locking element is moved in the adjustment sector, the space for the flow of hot liquid increases and decreases for the flow of the cold part of the coolant, and vice versa. Thus, the temperature in the system can be controlled. This diagram of a water circuit with a valve helps to better understand its purpose and principle of operation.

Sometimes electrically actuated valves are used in conjunction with thermostats. Water flows are adjusted automatically, depending on temperature changes. When lowering, the shut-off device of the valve moves in the direction of increasing the hot flow, and, conversely, when the set temperature rises, the electric actuator moves the locking mechanism in the direction of increasing the cold flow.

Features of the circulation pump

It depends on the correct choice and installation of the pump whether the entire system will work efficiently. The circulation of the coolant depends on the length and diameter of the pipes; bends at pipe bends make it difficult to move the flow. To achieve the required fluid circulation rate in the system, a pump is installed. Greater consumer preference for pumps with three pumping speeds, this allows you to control the temperature of the coolant, and therefore the air in the room, by changing the circulation rate.

When the room temperature drops, the coolant will cool faster in the pipes. By increasing the circulation rate, the streams will more often pass through the heating element, raising the temperature. The speed switch is located on the pump housing and is operated manually. Options are provided when the entire process is controlled by an automatic system.

Manufacturers produce two types of pumps: with a wet and dry rotor, in the first version the rotating part is in the circulating fluid, in the second version the rotor is isolated. For apartments, a wet rotor is more suitable, their capacities are limited for rooms of 400 m 2, this is quite enough. They consume less electricity and operate silently. The pump housing can be made of stainless steel, cast iron or polymer, the latter option is optimal, lightweight, strong and durable.

The numbers through the fraction sign on the marking indicate the dimensions of the inlet and outlet holes, the last number indicates the length of the product for calculations during installation work. In order not to go into details, when making a pipe calculation for a warm floor, calculations are used when choosing a pump using a table.

Characteristics table for pump selection

Heating area, m²	Pump performance
	radiator heating	warm floor
80-120	0,4	1,5
120-160	0,5	2,0
160-200	0,6	2,5
200-240	0,7	3,0
240-280	0,8	4,0
300-350	1,2-1,5	-

When installing the pump in a line, it is impossible to confuse the direction of movement of the coolant, it is indicated by an arrow on the body. The rotor must be in a horizontal position, with a vertical installation, the pump power is reduced by 30%.

The pump can be placed on any section of the pipeline, but most often this is done at the inlet to the system after the switchgear, thermostat. It is very important that the pump is equipped with an air release valve. An air lock can block the circulation of the coolant and the operation of the pump, opening the valve will help get rid of the accumulated air at the interval in the network where the pump is installed.

Connection to an individual heating boiler

The presence in an apartment or a private house of an individual boiler for heating removes all organizational problems to allow the installation of water-heated floors. In this case, the connection of a warm water floor does not require any permissions. Depending on the conditions of location and operation of the facility, boilers can be of various types:

on gas fuel;
on liquid fuel (solar oil, fuel oil);
solid fuel: firewood, pellets, coal;
electrical;
combined.

In apartments of multi-storey buildings, gas or electric heating boilers are most often used; connection to the central heating system of the underfloor heating circuit is not required. In this case, the scheme differs slightly, and the functional purpose of the main elements remains the same.

Main elements:

boiler;
expansion tank;
manometer;
circulation pump;
collector for underfloor heating;

In contrast to the case with central heating, the connection of underfloor heating to the boiler does not require the installation of a three-way valve to regulate the temperature of the heat carrier. Its installation is not mandatory, the temperature change is done from the boiler control panel. Temperature control sensors are also located on the external control panel.

The expansion tank serves to maintain a stable pressure in the system; when heated, the volume of liquid increases. In order not to collapse the collector of the warm floor, the pump and other expensive elements in the pipeline system, the tank compensates for the expansion of the volume of the coolant. The pressure gauge shows the pressure in the pipes. The main thing is that before pouring a warm floor with a solution, you need to check the performance of all nodes.

Regardless of the modification of the device and its manufacturer, all panels have basic options, and some additional programming functions:

buttons or regulators for increasing and decreasing the temperature of the coolant at the supply;
button for automatic setting of a comfortable, economical temperature regime, room temperature - 20-22 ̊С;
program control is possible, setting the modes "winter", "summer", "holidays", "system protection function against liquid freezing".

How to make specific settings for boilers with different control panels is described in the operating instructions. Filling a water-heated floor with a solution for a separate boiler is done in the same way as for central heating.

Video: water floor heating in the apartment

All this shows that it is preferable to make underfloor heating with the installation of an autonomous heating boiler, the main part of the installation can be done by hand. A water floor made without a screed, or dry with a screed, will simplify the work and make it cheaper.

If the scheme for connecting a warm floor is not entirely clear, you can and should consult with professionals on individual elements in the floor. Having studied the purpose, the correct connection of the main elements to the general scheme, technically literate people understand that laying a warm floor is not difficult, making a warm floor with your own hands is a very real task.

Water heated floor in a residential area is now being equipped very often. However, this design is more suitable for private houses, where the heating system is separate (autonomous). But what if you need to make a water heated floor in the apartment? Here you need to consider all the nuances of the installation process. In addition, in most cases, the installation of such a design can lead to destabilization of the thermal and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments. Plus, a poorly thought-out system will be immediately identified by the inspection authorities. We will tell you more about the implementation of the correct underfloor heating system in the apartment.

Before you make floor heating powered by a hot battery, you need to consider the difficulties that the master may face:

Temperature difference of water in the system. It should be noted that the maximum heating parameters for a warm floor are 50 degrees, while in the heating system this value is 70-90 degrees. If you connect the structure directly, the equipment may fail, and the flooring may also be damaged.
The ban on the installation of underfloor heating in apartments with central heating. If the design is discovered by the inspection body, the owner of the dwelling can be punished with a rather large fine.
If an elevator was used to connect the heating, then only copper pipes can be used for floor heating equipment, and they are quite difficult to install and expensive.

What alternative exists?

If there is no way to make a warm floor in an apartment powered by central heating, you can choose alternative ways of arranging floor heating. For example, electrical design.

It is quite simple to install, you can do it yourself. It also practically does not affect the heating of other apartments. Although here it is already necessary to take into account the power of the electrical network.

Electric floor based heating mats - the best solution for small areas

Another advantage of alternative electric floor heating is its complete legality. Modern thermostats make the presented design very convenient for operation and allow you to reduce. You can turn on such heating even in summer, unlike water heating, which only works during the heating period (if the system is connected to a battery, but if it is connected to a hot water supply, then you can use water floors all year round).

Options for connecting a warm water floor in an apartment

If, nevertheless, there is a need to connect a warm floor from central heating, then you need to consider all possible such designs in order to choose the most suitable one in each individual case. There are such connection schemes:

Direct connection of the circuit to a hot battery. In this case, the most primitive low-power pump is used. This method is considered the cheapest and easiest. However, it is the least reliable. When using this method of connecting the structure, you need to be prepared for the fact that the heating temperature will not be regulated, and the overall temperature in the riser will decrease significantly, which will negatively affect the neighbors.
The easiest and least reliable way to connect
Direct connection using a balancing valve on the bypass. In this case, it is possible to reduce the temperature of the hot water that is supplied to the circuit. For installation of the system, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 16 mm and a circuit length of not more than 70 meters. In addition, increased attention should be paid to the choice of the circulation pump. It should pump up to 5-10 liters per second, and the head should be 1-2 m.
Manual adjustment with balancing valve
With connection of a three-way valve. If you connect a warm floor from central heating in this way, you can significantly reduce the heat consumption of the circuits. The thermostat, which is located on the valve, makes it possible to automatically maintain the set temperature. If a two-way valve is also present in the system, then it can be ensured that with a strong decrease in the temperature of the coolant in the battery, it will not enter the underfloor heating structure.
Temperature control circuit with three-way valve
With shut-off and two three-way valves. This method is considered more modern, as it allows you to adjust the temperature of the coolant in the circuits using the "return". A two-way valve is necessary in this case to avoid a situation in which the circulation pump will run idle. This will lead to the fact that it can quickly fail due to overheating. In addition, the system will "eat up" more electricity.
The K3 valve is used to adjust the temperature of the warm floor using the return
With remote sensor. This circuit is most similar to the previous design. Its main difference is the presence of a remote sensor. If there is a significant excess of the set temperature value, the system will close the supply of hot coolant to the circuit. If the water in the structure is too cold, the sensor will open the valve again, through which the system will again be filled with hot liquid. Such a connection scheme will make it possible to avoid excessive cooling of the radiators. In addition, there are systems on which several sensors are installed.

One of the craftsmen tells in great detail about one of the connection options:

It should be noted that from central heating it is possible on any basis. To facilitate this process, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the concrete surface, to which the pipes are attached. If the base is made of wood, then special grooves should be made on the logs. This is how the design will be fixed.

Conclusion and Conclusions

It should be noted that a warm floor powered by central heating can be done with your own hands, however, it is advisable to follow a pre-prepared scheme. Keep in mind that installing alternative underfloor heating systems can be cheaper and take much less time.

Installation of the presented design requires knowledge and practical skills. An incorrectly configured system can lead to uneven distribution of heat in several apartments at once. Some people may lose heat altogether. Therefore, it is better to give preference to an electric heating system.

That's all the features of connecting the water structure of the warm floor. We must not forget that the use of such a system is illegal, therefore, if possible, it is necessary to make it invisible to the inspection authorities. Leave your comments, especially since the topic for discussion is very interesting. And finally, video connection through a separate heat exchanger - so to speak, the most ideal installation scheme:

Systems of "warm floors" are rapidly gaining popularity among owners of private suburban housing and city apartments, and many of them have a question: "How to make a warm floor from heating." This is not surprising - such a heat exchange scheme in the room is the most efficient and economical - heated air from the floor evenly rises up, creating an optimal comfortable temperature distribution without the formation of horizontal convection currents.

There are a lot of underfloor heating schemes - they are, that is, with laying pipes for circulating a liquid coolant, and electric, which use various heating schemes from the power supply. Due to the fact that electricity cannot be called cheap, many homeowners pay increased attention to the “water” scheme. Moreover, the owners of city apartments are tempted to take advantage of the capabilities of the central heating circuit laid in the house, therefore, in the Internet search engines in the top queries, there is always the following: “how to make a warm floor from heating”.

Unfortunately, many articles on this topic begin with the most optimistic prospects being drawn to the reader, for example, “the device of such a warm floor is not difficult and can well be done on its own.” Is it so? Practice shows that the equipment of such a system will require the application of considerable effort to overcome a variety of problems, both purely technological and administrative in nature.

The purpose of this publication is not so much a step-by-step instruction on self-equipping a water "warm floor" system from heating, but an overview of all the complex issues in the implementation of this project with options for their possible resolution. Having assessed the scale of the work, the nature of the upcoming difficulties and their own strengths, it is likely that some apartment owners will decide in favor of a much easier installation.

Difficulties of an administrative nature

First of all, it is necessary to dwell on the fact that administrative barriers can interfere with the equipment of such a “warm floor” with a connection to central heating.

The central heating system is calculated taking into account the capacity of the boiler house, the throughput of heating mains, the piping system in multi-storey buildings, the number and total area of heated apartments, and many other factors. The insertion of additional heating circuits, especially those having a considerable length, will necessarily affect the general parameters of the system. It is good if the power of the boiler room and the possibilities of wiring allow you to compensate for heat losses, but this does not always happen. Thus, residents of apartments connected to one riser may feel a decrease in the temperature of heating radiators, which will lead to complaints about the work of public utilities.

Therefore, the installation of additional underfloor heating circuits requires mandatory coordination with the organization providing heat supply to the multi-apartment building, and it is not a fact that it will go for it. Of course, there are always "wise men" who can connect "pirately", without notifying the housing and communal services specialists, but sooner or later this is discovered and ends with the imposition of considerable penalties.

As a rule, permission can be given if the apartment is located at the very end of the heating circuit. For example, with a heat supply scheme down up, there should not be any particular problems for the owners of apartments on the highest floor - the selection of additional thermal energy will not affect other residents of the house in any way. And vice versa, when the top heat supply is applied, the owners of the apartment on the ground floor will have such an advantage. But in both cases, the heat supply organization, for sure, will require the installation of an additional heat energy meter to individually calculate the payment for its consumption.

Managers or heat supply organizations can also meet halfway if the apartment heating system does not use a common coolant, but energy transfer carried out through a special device- heat exchanger. The "warm floor" circuit in this case becomes autonomous to a certain extent, but the metering device for the consumed heat will nevertheless still be mandatory.

Only owners of apartments with an autonomous heating system, that is, those who have disconnected from the central network and installed their own gas or electric boiler and a closed circuit that does not communicate with the outside, may not have such problems with permission to install a water “warm floor”. This, of course, means that the installation of your own heat generator (boiler) and “autonomization” have already received appropriate approval in advance. But even in this case, one will have to face considerable difficulties, only now - of a technological nature. This will be discussed below.

Possible solutions for laying pipes "warm floor"

If problems conciliatory there is no longer a character, then issues with the system for laying the contours of the "warm floor" will have to be resolved. Here you will have to face a lot of nuances - assessing the possibility of raising the floor level and additional load, purchasing high-quality components, creating reliable thermal insulation, choosing a laying scheme and technology for covering the floor over pipes. About everything - in order.

How much will the floor surface rise?

This factor should be taken into account in advance, even before the start of all subsequent work. The water “warm floor” system itself implies reliable thermal insulation of the base so that expensive energy does not go to waste, just to warm up the floor slabs between floors.

For apartments located above heated rooms, a layer of 30 mm of standard insulation (for example, extruded polystyrene) is considered sufficient. In the case when such heating is installed on the ground floor, under which there is a cold basement or basement, or soil, a layer of at least 50 mm, and sometimes up to 100 mm, will be required.

Installation of a "warm floor" always leads to a significant increase in the height of the coating

But that's not all. You should add the thickness of the screed, which will close the pipes and be a powerful accumulator of thermal energy. That is, it is necessary to add at least another 50 mm. Plus to it - thickness of a finishing covering of a floor. The sum will be the total rise in the surface level. Based on this result, it is possible to assess whether it is realistic to perform in an apartment.

It is possible to do without a concrete screed, reducing the height of the floor.

To do this, a system is used for laying pipes in heat-exchange metal plates, which are installed in prefabricated wooden modules, rack or lag structures, or in thermal insulation mats.

One of the options for placing plates is on slatted logs

At the same time, heat transfer, of course, is somewhat reduced, but this is an inevitable price for saving space.

In any case, a certain rise in the surface level cannot be avoided. If the "warm floor" system is planned only in separate rooms, then this will lead to the formation of steps in the apartment, which is not very convenient in everyday life - a similar factor must also be borne in mind.

Thermal insulation mats

So, as already mentioned, laying pipes of a "warm floor" will require preliminary thermal insulation of the surface. Rolled polyethylene foam, even with foil, will obviously not be enough (with rare exceptions), and usually special mats are used for this purpose. They are of several types:

Flat polystyrene foam mats with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm with a foil coating and, ideally, with a laminating layer on which a marking grid is applied, which facilitates the laying of pipes according to the developed scheme.

To fix the pipes to such mats, special clamps are used - "harpoons", or, when pouring a reinforced screed, the pipes are attached to the reinforcing mesh using polymer clamps - "ties". In addition, special mounting rails can be used for convenience.

Expanded polystyrene profile mats with special bosses, the location and height of which allows you to securely fix the pipes in a given position.

Such mats with a laminated coating and a system of locks for mutual conjugation are especially convenient - they create a single surface, which no longer requires additional waterproofing.

Such mats are made from high-density expanded polystyrene (more than 40 kg/m³), which guarantees the ability to withstand loads from both the poured screed and those that occur during operation. The standard dimensions of one such profiled panel are 1.0 × 1.0 or 0.6 × 0.8 m. Thickness varies (without accounting boss height) within 5 ÷ 50 mm, the allowable pipe laying step is 50 mm or more (a multiple of 50).

Such mats give one more advantage - their complex relief structure, along with the physical features of expanded polystyrene, give an excellent noise-absorbing Effect.

Prices for mats for warm water floor

Mats for warm water floor

Which pipes are optimal for "warm floor"

Pipes in the "warm floor" system are mounted with an eye on a long period of use, during which their regular revision will simply be impossible. That is why their choice should be taken with special care. What requirements should they meet:

Seam pipes are unacceptable - they will not guarantee the safety of the circuit with an increase in pressure in it.
For the same reason, any joints in the circuit should be avoided - this place is vulnerable to blockages and leaks.
Pipes must have the necessary margin of safety - they are loaded both from the side of the coolant and from the outside, from the severity of the screed, floor covering and dynamic loads. You should focus on the indicator of resistance to pressure not lower than 8 ÷ 10 bar.
Pipes must have the highest performance corrosion resistance, resistance to the formation of scale deposits, chemical inertness. The “scourge” of pipelines is oxygen diffusion, and the choice of a material with a special protective layer against this process would be optimal.
Not everyone can like the sound of water flowing through the pipes. This means that the pipes must also have an appropriate level of sound insulation.
Diameter - pipes 16 or 20 mm are usually used. Understatement will lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance and a decrease in heat transfer, and excessively thick pipes will significantly increase the thickness of the screed and lead to significant heat losses in the general heating system.
Pipes should be purchased in one piece for a circuit, the length of which, with a diameter of 16 mm, should not exceed 60 - 80 meters. If this value is exceeded, a "closed loop" effect may appear in the circuit, when the pressure created by the circulation pump cannot cope with the internal hydraulic resistance. If this length is not enough to cover the entire area of the room, you will have to organize two or more separate circuits from one collector.

Which pipes are preferable for "warm floor":

Metal-plastic pipes are great for a "warm floor" system, but with a few caveats. A truly high-quality material should be used, since cases of rupture of the pipe body from excessive pressure are not uncommon. The problem, in fact, is not at all in the unreliability of the structure itself, but in the fact that the building materials market is oversaturated with low-quality fakes that do not hold water. In pursuit of a low price, it is easy to get into a very unpleasant situation here - what is easily eliminated, for example, on a water supply system, can have disastrous consequences if a low-quality pipe is located deep in the floor.

One more note - the aluminum layer, in general, although it is resistant to corrosion, nevertheless, over time, under the influence of oxygen, it gradually loses its qualities, becoming brittle. This significantly reduces the life of such pipes. Therefore, when choosing a material, it is best to focus on its variety with a special oxygen barrier.

Leading positions in this area have recently been held by pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene. The process of special processing of the polymer - "crosslinking" creates additional three-dimensional intermolecular bonds, which at the output gives excellent indicators of the strength and flexibility of the pipe. Optimal are pipes marked RE-Xa, in which the degree of "crosslinking" reaches 80 - 90%. It is even better if the EVON layer is included in the pipe structure - it almost completely blocks the possibility of oxygen diffusion.

In addition, some manufacturers reinforce PE-Xa pipes with a layer of overlap welded aluminum, and such products become ideal for their use in heating systems - they withstand the most critical loads.

Recently, stainless corrugated steel has begun to compete with polymer pipes. They have excellent flexibility, and the outer and inner layer of polyethylene coating makes them practically absolutely impenetrable.

Such pipes are produced in coils up to 50 meters, but they have such a reliable fitting system that they can be extended even with the connections closed with a concrete screed.

Which "pattern" of laying to choose

When drawing up laying schemes, one of two main methods is usually used with possible variations - “snail” or “snake”.

The volute or double serpentine patterns shown in the right picture are a little more difficult to install, but they provide more even heating of the floor surface, since the supply and return pipes are parallel each other.

The pipe laying step can be different - it all depends on how insulated the room itself is and the effect expected from such a heating system. Usually, the arrangement of turns at a distance of 100 mm is considered the norm. You can create areas of increased heat by reducing this step, or, conversely, in those places where special heating is not required, significantly increase the distance.

Be that as it may, all ends of the circuits are reduced to one point - to the installation site of the distribution manifold, which will be discussed below.

Prices for water pipes and fittings

Water pipes and fittings

Features of connecting the contours of the "warm floor" to the existing heating system

The owner of the apartment is deeply mistaken, who believes that it is enough just to cut the contours of the "warm floor" into the heating pipes of the house - the supply and the "return". Such an approach is simply impossible based on a number of considerations:

Water in narrow and long circuits will never begin to circulate independently - it will choose the path of least hydraulic resistance. Thus, the circulation pump becomes an indispensable element.
In order to ensure the movement of the coolant with efficient heat transfer, it is necessary to have a pressure equalization device in the system that will eliminate stagnation or, conversely, the appearance of the effect of water hammer.
Removal system required accumulating in the air system.
The coolant in the central system is far from always clean, and in order to prevent clogging of the "warm floor" circuits, it is necessary to install filters.
One of the main reasons is the need for a mandatory decrease in the temperature of the coolant. The water in the central heating pipes can be heated to very high limits, sometimes reaching even 80 degrees, which absolutely not applicable for the underfloor heating system. Overheating of the surface negative way will affect the integrity of the screed and the thermal insulation layer and the condition of the floor finish. In addition, too high a surface temperature will create absolutely not comfortable situation in the apartment. Practice shows that the optimal value for heating the coolant for underfloor heating is a temperature of 35 - 40 °, and it is not recommended to exceed it. This means that a special mixing unit is needed, which will mix the water from the supply and return to achieve the desired level of heating.

Of course, all this requires the installation of visual control devices and adjustment of parameters, manual or automatic.
And, finally, not a single heat supply organization will give permission for any connection if all the safety rules for the operation of the system are not observed, its efficiency in terms of heat energy consumption, if it at least to some extent interferes with the normal operation of central heating the entire building.

Self-activity in such matters is not welcome - there are several basic connection schemes that are developed on the basis of carefully conducted thermal and hydraulic calculations.

For example, when connecting the "warm floor" collectors at the final section of the riser (the first or last floor, as mentioned earlier), the scheme shown in the figure is usually used. It provides:

Inlet valve with obligatory filter - "mud collector" (1).
Valve on the return pipe of the circuit with non-return valve (2).
Three-way valve - mixer (3) with manual or servo control.

If the control is carried out in automatic mode, then it is associated with a temperature sensor - the control signal is shown in the diagram with a green dotted line.

Circulation (4) with a capacity corresponding to the total length of the circuits connected to the collectors.
An overflow valve (5) is installed to equalize the required pressure difference in the supply and return pipes.
On the "combs" of both collectors must be air vents(6) and drain cocks (7) to drain the coolant for maintenance or repair work.

In the case when the underfloor heating system cuts directly into the coolant supply pipes (permission has been obtained for this, or in the conditions of an autonomous home heating network), the schemes should be somewhat different:

Recommended schemes for connecting a "warm floor" to heating risers

On the diagram "a" connection is shown using a two-way cock (2) connected to a thermostat. The valve regulates only the total flow of water, without mixing, increasing or decreasing the pressure and, consequently, the rate of heat transfer. General adjustment is carried out by balancing valves (3 and 4). Pressure equalization is carried out by the bypass valve (8).
Scheme "b" descent from the first, and differs only in the presence of a direct bypass (jumper) between the manifolds (8) with a valve designed to operate when the allowable pressure in the supply pipe is exceeded.
On the image "in" a pipe connection unit is shown with a three-way valve (11) installed on the return, which redirects the flow of the cooled liquid to the supply line. This scheme is one of the simplest, but at the same time it is enough reliable.
Similar to it, but more perfect and easy to adjust - the scheme "G" . Here, a three-way mixer (9) is installed on the supply pipe, which provides direct mixing of hot and chilled water before entering the circulation pump (1).
The most perfect scheme is considered "d" with a four-way mixing valve, with manual adjustment, or equipped with a servomotor connected to a thermostat unit.

Such a divorce gives the most accurate indicators of adjustments, both in terms of the temperature of the coolant and the liquid in the "warm floor" circuits.

And finally in the figure "e" the previously mentioned scheme for connecting the "warm floor" to the central heating system through a heat exchanger (14) is shown. A characteristic feature is the obligatory presence of its own safety group (12), including its own control pressure gauge, overpressure valve and air vent, as well as the installation of an expansion tank of the membrane principle of operation (13), which will compensate for the inevitable pressure drops.

To ensure the necessary replenishment of the coolant, a jumper (15) with a mud filter, a shut-off valve and a check valve can be installed.

If several "warm floor" circuits are connected to the collectors in parallel, another problem arises - the uneven flow of the coolant in them. Sometimes it even ends with hydrostatic "locking" - the fluid stops moving along one of them altogether, choosing its path with the least resistance. This, of course, can be dealt with by observing the well-defined equal length of all contours, but in practice this is extremely difficult to implement. There is only one way out - control valves are installed on the combs of the collector for each circuit, which allow balancing the total flow so that it is distributed evenly.

Shut-off and control valves on the "combs" of the collectors

In addition, such shut-off valves make it possible to turn off some heating zones in case of uselessness or in the event of emergency situations - for preventive maintenance or repair.

Is it possible to assemble such a system of wiring, mixing and fine adjustment by yourself? Perhaps, if the owner of the apartment has the necessary knowledge in this area, he can succeed, but most often the help of a qualified specialist will be needed - commissioning work on such interdependent circuits will require a professional approach.

But in order to facilitate the process of installing a "warm floor" from heating as much as possible, equipment manufacturers offer ready-made integrated solutions - mixing and manifold units of various designs with already assembled elements, including a circulation pump, a system of mixers and taps, and instrumentation, and blocks of automatic or manual control. Thus, it remains for the owners of the apartment, after consulting with specialists, to choose the most acceptable option, which is most suitable for the specific installation conditions and suits for its cost. The choice is quite large - such units are produced both for small rooms and those capable of optimally distributing coolant flows over large areas.

As a rule, for such mixing units, a manifold cabinet is provided, which can be completely hidden in a niche cut into the wall. The place is chosen for reasons of maximum simplification of the distribution of the "warm floor" pipe system, access to the supply and return risers of the central heating system. With small heating areas and small dimensions of the node itself, it is sometimes placed directly on the outer wall.

The process of laying and connecting pipes, launching the "warm floor" system

The laying of the pipe contours of the "warm floor" is usually carried out in next sequence:

The state of the base floor is being audited. If necessary, its defects are eliminated - cavities and cracks are repaired with a repair solution, protruding places are cut down to a flat surface. After garbage collection and dust removal, it is necessary to go through a deep penetration primer - it will increase the strength of the base, create an additional waterproofing barrier.
A layer of waterproofing film with a thickness of at least 200 microns is covered. It should be on the surface of the walls by 150 ÷ 200 mm. Adjacent strips are overlapped with an overlap of 150 mm, the resulting seams are glued with resistant construction tape.
A damper tape is attached around the entire perimeter of the wall, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the future screed covering the pipes of the heating circuits. The height of the tape lifting on the walls must correspond to the planned thickness of the screed plus another 20 ÷ 30 mm.
Thermal insulation mats are installed. It is also desirable to glue the places of their joints with waterproof tape. If the expanded polystyrene is not equipped with a reflective foil layer, it is also necessary to lay a thin foil substrate made of polyethylene foam.
According to a pre-designed scheme, pipes are laid out. The layout starts from the collector cabinet, and it should end here. To ensure the connection of the pipe to the manifold, the necessary margin must be left.
If profile mats are used, then the pipes are fixed between the bosses. With even insulation panels, plastic clips and mounting strips are used. Alternatively, pipes can be tied to a reinforcing mesh. Such actions are best carried out with an assistant, who, as the coil is unwound and laid out, will immediately fix the pipe in the right place.

Laying the contour of the "warm floor"

Both outputs of each circuit are hermetically connected to the corresponding manifold in the switch cabinet.

The next step is to check the tightness of the system. To do this, it is carried out - all circuits and elements of the mixing cabinet are filled with water under working pressure. If it is possible to use compression equipment, then the pressure should even be increased to one and a half - two times. The filled system must stand in this position for at least a day, during which the pressure gauge readings and visual control of the condition of the pipes and all fitting or threaded connections are carried out. In the event of a leak or pressure drop, the necessary repair measures are taken and the pressure testing process is repeated. Only with a stable positive result, it is possible to proceed to closing the contours of the "warm floor" with a screed.

Closing the "warm floor" screed

performed in the usual manner - with reinforcement, setting up a system of beacons. Use a concrete solution of grade strength not lower than M200 with fine sand. It is highly desirable to add a plasticizing composition, which will facilitate the laying of the mortar in difficult places (near pipes and on the ledges of mounting strips or embossed mats), help to avoid the formation of air voids - they can not only reduce the strength of the coating, but also worsen the thermal performance of the created heating system.

The thickness of the screed must be at least 50 mm. Too thick a layer will disturb the thermal balance and will become an unnecessary load on both the pipes and the ceiling. Insufficient thickness of the screed will not ensure the safety of the contours from dynamic loads, and will not allow it to cope with the role of a heat accumulator.

Before pouring concrete, the pipes must be filled with a coolant to prevent deformation of their walls with an increase in weight load.

Until the screed is completely dry (3-4 weeks, depending on the type of mortar used), it is forbidden to increase the temperature of the coolant in the system - the screed must be cured in a stable temperature regime.

A fully cured concrete surface will form the basis for laying any type of floor finish.

Video: screed over floor heating pipes

If the use of "concrete" technology is not possible (due to too much floor level or because of the inadmissibility of a large load on the ceiling), it is recommended to lay the "warm floor" in wooden modules using heat exchange plates, which have already been mentioned above.

Laying pipes of "warm floor" in wooden modules

Similar plates can also be used for profile mats, if they are selected in full accordance with the diameter of the pipes and the distance between the bosses.

It is possible to carry out a similar installation on profile mats ...

Alternatively, even in conventional extruded polystyrene foam mats, grooves can be cut for installing heat transfer plates and then laying pipes in them.

… or even directly on XPS panels

On such a surface, after crimping, you can immediately lay the floor finish. If laminate flooring is planned, then only a polyethylene foam underlay will be needed. In the case when linoleum will be laid on the floor or tiles will be laid, a layer of plywood (OSB, GVL) is first laid over the metal plates, and only then the installation of the finishing coating is carried out.

And, finally, the features of starting the "warm floor" system from heating. In no case should you immediately start it at full power. Commissioning should be carried out in stages, with a smooth increase in the coolant temperature to the calculated one. It is recommended to extend this process for 3-4 days.

What is the conclusion from all of the above? Is it possible to call the process of creating a warm floor from an existing heating system simple, which anyone can take on? Probably not. You should carefully weigh your desires and possibilities, think through all the stages of obtaining permission for the installation and the practical implementation of the project, and, most likely, you will have to come to the conclusion that you cannot do without the help of qualified specialists in this matter.

TOP 7 best underfloor heating

	Name	Rating
The best cable electric floors
#1	Devi 330 W, 16.5 m	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m	⭐ 98 / 100
The best underfloor heating in the form of heating mats
#1	Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Equation 1260 W, 9 m2	⭐ 98 / 100
The best film underfloor heating
#1	Caleo Grid 220 W 3 m2	⭐ 99 / 100
The best water heated floors
#1	Corrugated pipe 15A, Annealed	⭐ 98 / 100

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