Before the advent of new materials, such as metal-plastic or plastic pipes, most houses had steel or cast-iron sewers. Before installing a new pipeline, it is necessary to dismantle the old one, which is not an easy task, because earlier cast-iron structures were connected with cement mortar, aluminum or sulfur. Such a pipeline is difficult to dismantle, so it is worth preparing for a laborious and protracted process.

When dismantling a cast-iron sewer, a wide variety of tools can be used, because it all depends on the method and material of chasing. However, the most important devices can be distinguished - these are:

• grinder, with which you can cut out a pipeline element;
• grinding or cutting discs;
• blowtorch;
• a set of different screwdrivers, a hammer;
• chisel;
• special pipe wrench;
• goggles, a mask, and when disassembling structures that were connected with gray, also a headdress;
• perforator;
• nail puller or crowbar;
• pipe cutter;
• chisel or steel wedge;
• iron bucket with water.

Before starting work, it is worth determining the connection method in order to sketch out a rough plan for how to disassemble the cast-iron sewer.

Moments of dismantling cast iron

With a complete replacement of the structure with a plastic one, you can not do extra work and just smash everything with a hammer. This is quite easy to do, because cast iron is considered a brittle material. However, if only part of the pipeline needs to be dismantled, the work must be done more carefully.

Before dismantling the cast-iron sewer, it is necessary to inspect the entire system to determine the area that will be repaired. Then be sure to turn off the water supply so that the drains do not enter the sewer. Further disassembly is carried out in stages:

1. The part of the pipe located below the connection is cut off.
2. The pipe is separated from the socket. The embossing methods will be discussed in more detail.
3. If you remove the connection just does not come out, use a blowtorch or make surrounding cuts 20 mm long.

When carrying out procedures, it is imperative to use all protective equipment due to the injury risk of this work.

Caulking of the pipeline with sulfur compound

Regardless of how the cast-iron sewer was connected, it is imperative to carry out some standard preparatory work before replacing:

• turn off the water;
• disconnect the hose leading to the toilet;
• remove the toilet itself by unscrewing the bolts;
• clean the bathroom of appliances and furniture.

To determine whether sulfur was really used when connecting pipes, you need to bring a blowtorch to the seam. Under the influence of high temperatures, sulfur melts, accompanying this process with an unpleasant odor.

When disassembling cast-iron sewer pipes, work begins from the farthest corner. The element must be broken with a hammer. It is better to use a tool with a plastic or polymer base, because the sewer can become clogged due to metal nozzles. Having found the cross leading to the riser, it is necessary to loosen it as much as possible.

Then you need to prepare a blowtorch or gas burner. At least two people should be involved in heating up the connections. While one warms up and melts sulfur, the other must loosen the structure. When doing this, be sure to use gloves and other protective equipment.

When the connecting substance is completely melted, the crosspiece can be removed from the riser. At the same time, you should be very careful, you need to remember to remove the remaining sulfur, and then let the riser cool thoroughly. If the cast iron structure is too strong, you can always make a few cuts near the pipe that needs to be removed. This will make the extraction process easier.

Cement bonded pipeline caulking

Dismantling cast iron pipes that have been connected with cement is practically the same as the above-mentioned option with sulfur, but it is much safer. This is because when sulfur melts, a lot of carbon monoxide is released.

To start dismantling, you need to cut off part of the pipe. In this case, it is worth retreating at least 30 cm from the junction. The hardened cement is removed with a hammer, which must be beaten with a screwdriver or a chisel inserted into the hole. All procedures should be performed as carefully as possible so as not to damage the socket.

When the joints are freed from cement, you need to try to loosen the main pipe. In order not to process the sewer with a blowtorch or a burner, it is necessary to remove the cable, but if this cannot be dispensed with, it is necessary to heat it up strongly or use a specialized key. For example, for a 50 mm pipe, tool Nos. 3 and 4 are used.

The crosspiece is located below on the main riser. To remove it, you can simply use a hammer with a screwdriver. At the same time, for some time, you need to lightly tap on the tee itself in order to form a small gap between it and the pipe. Then you need to penetrate this opening, pry off the tee and remove it. It will take a lot of time to carry out these manipulations, in addition, this method is ineffective.

The next option is to use a blowtorch or burner. Dismantling is much faster, but the price for this is an unpleasant smell that takes a long time to disappear. First of all, you need to cut the socket of the cross. Then a heating device is placed in the pipe. A metal shield is applied to the upper part of the pipe in order to be able to regulate the draft inside the riser. When heated, you need to start swinging the pipe and, as soon as possible, remove the dismantled tee.

You can also use a grinder. To do this, you must first cut off parts of the tee, leaving a small piece in the pipe. Then put a medium-sized disk that could freely get inside, and cut through the remaining parts of the structure with a grinder, knocking them out with a hammer.

What to do in case of failure?

The dismantling of the pipeline is carried out to the permissible limit, because it is better to cut the pipe before it passes into the socket. At the same time, joining a cast-iron pipeline with a plastic one will take much less effort and time. It is better to cut the structure with a grinder, but if it is not there, you can use a hacksaw to work with metal. The use of this tool can greatly increase the duration of the dismantling process.

If the dismantling failed, do not be upset, because you can simply purchase a specialized transitional coupling, with which cast-iron and polymer pipes are connected.

If you have difficulty cutting the pipe, you can cut it in half. Then you need to apply slight pressure or rotate so that the element bursts. If it cannot be removed from the socket, you just need to make several cuts in a circle with an interval of 20 mm, after which it can be removed from the riser.

Before starting the connection of the cast-iron and polymer pipeline, it is necessary to clean the first option of sulfur by heating. After removing the substance, it is necessary to leave the pipes for several hours and allow them to cool.

When it is necessary to repair any part of the sewer pipeline in an apartment, it is often necessary to disconnect the pipes. In a situation where a section needs to be replaced, it is important to first inspect it to determine the type of connection. Difficulty arises with pipes located underground, because they are processed by special. anti-separation compound. In this case, a gas cutter is used to speed up the separation process. It is known that the caulking of cast-iron pipes is a very important stage of repair work and has its own technology for correct execution. The rules should not be ignored when it is necessary to change the cast iron pipe.

How to emboss a cast-iron pipe?

1. Initially, it is required to gently tap the surface of the bell with a hammer, trying not to damage it. Otherwise, you will need to completely change the riser.
2. When the movement of the socket becomes free, it is possible to dismantle the cast iron pipes.

br /> is done like this:
- the bell should be slightly swung to the sides;
- using a screwdriver, pry a little and pull the rope;
- fix the rope using pliers;
- slowly pull the rope, without stopping swinging the pipe;
- the cable should be pulled out, having previously hooked it.
3. If the bell remains motionless as a result of the tapping procedure, the caulking was carried out by filling with sulfur. In this case, it should be burned out in the following way:
- using a soldering iron or an ordinary burner, it is necessary to heat the pipe around the circumference;
- during heating, continue tapping the pipe;
- when the bell starts to move, it must be swinged using an adjustable wrench.
Work must be done with a respirator.
4. The released socket should be cleaned using a chisel or chisel. It is important to clean the bell seat very carefully, as this is where the sealing rubber will need to be placed.
5. Lubricate the rubber sealing ring with lubricant and place it in the socket.
6. Insert a new part into the seal.

High-quality replacement of cast iron pipes is carried out by attracting a competent specialist. He will be able to quickly replace the cast-iron pipe without risking damage to the entire pipeline. Also, the master will help to remove the cast-iron pipe, replace it with a product made of another material.

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Step-by-step caulking of cast-iron pipes

In the process of repairing sewer communications with your own hands, the most difficult moment may be caulking a cast-iron pipe. Such manipulation may be required when repairing or reinstalling the riser. In this case, it is necessary to very carefully emboss the pipes of the cast-iron pipes. Step by step, this work can be done like this:

1. First, use a hammer to lightly tap the socket, while being careful not to break it, since carelessness can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, replacing the entire riser. It is better to use a wooden mallet.
2. If the previous blockage was made with the help of a cable, then after tapping the bell should wobble freely and it can be removed without additional effort. In such a case, do the following:
   • swing the bell from side to side;
   • pry with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • hook it with pliers;
   • slowly and carefully pull out the rope, swinging the pipe in the process.
3. If, after tapping, the pipe did not start moving, it means that the previous caulking of the sockets of sewer pipes was carried out by pouring sulfur. In this option, you will need to get rid of it by burning it. To do this, proceed as follows:
   • gently heat the pipe at the joint along the entire diameter with a blowtorch or burner;
   • lightly, trying not to break the walls of the pipe, then tap it with a hammer;
   • if the bell starts to wobble, try moving it using an adjustable wrench.

   Please note that when working with a burner and sulfur, it is imperative to protect the respiratory tract with a mask so as not to get poisoned by toxic fumes.

4. After successful dismantling, the walls of the socket must be well cleaned with a chisel and chisel. Pay special attention to the bell seat, as this is where you will place the sealing rubber.
5. Having previously coated the rubber seal with a special lubricant, place it in the socket.
6. Place a new structural element in the rubber ring.

Precautions in repairing cast iron pipes

When working with such pipes, be sure to remember that cast iron is a relatively brittle material with its endurance. If you hit the metal hammer hard or too hard, the wall will vibrate, which may cause cracks. If this happens, the replacement of damaged sections will be long and expensive. Therefore, when preparing for dismantling, stock up on the necessary tools in advance.

Don't work alone, it is unsafe and difficult. Better call someone for help.

It's important to know that sulfur fumes can be harmful to health, so use a gas mask, in extreme cases, a respirator and goggles. Also take care of good air circulation in the room where the repair work is taking place.

After removing the pipe from the socket, take the time and attention to clean the seat of this part. So you will ensure the installation of the sealing material without defects and distortions.

Immediately pack all dismantled material and garbage into construction bags, tie and throw away. An unpleasant smell will come from the old pipeline.

If you are caulking cast iron pipes for the first time and after reading this article, you still do not understand how to do it, be sure to contact a professional. For an experienced craftsman, the process of dismantling cast iron pipes will take 25-30 minutes, while a beginner can spend more than 3 hours and with an unknown result.

Chasing cast iron - some nuances

Many articles have been written about how to mint a cast-iron pipe, so I would like to summarize everything written in them. First you need to decide on the scope of the work to be performed, as well as what tools are needed to complete them, how much and what materials will need to be purchased for a complete and high-quality repair.

What will be required from the tools? First of all, you need a grinder complete with a 230 mm disc. You need a hammer with a rubber or wood tip, a chisel and pliers.

If there is no grinder, you can take a regular hacksaw, but then it will take more time to complete the work.

Note! The reliability of fixing new pipes depends on the quality of the caulking.

First you need to get rid of the old toilet so that there is more space to work. It is important to know that if it was planted on a cement-sand mortar, it will have to be broken up and a new one bought.

Having started to dismantle a segment of the old pipe, the person repairing the sewer may not know exactly how the connection was fixed and how it was minted. If a cable was used, then there is a possibility that the pipe can be removed by loosening, without cutting anything out and thereby saving time. To do this, gently tap the pipe with a hammer and try to loosen it. If it works, then continue to loosen further. After the pipe is taken out, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the socket.

If the pipe was connected using a sealing fill, then you will have to use a grinder, since the cast iron has practically “fused” with the fill during operation.

Note! It is best to saw off the pipe above the socket, and not in some other place, and do not forget to use goggles and a respirator or face mask. It is most practical to use a disk of about 230 mm.

What is already cut off can be removed - this piece is no longer needed.

The most difficult is ahead. With the same disk, we carefully make up to four cuts on the remaining end of the pipe, but so as not to touch the socket. Using a hammer (normal) and a chisel, you need to pry off the pieces of metal and the remnants of the old fill and remove them with pliers. It is desirable that none of these residues fall into the sewer pipe.

After removing all elements of the old connection, that is, metal and pouring particles, the surface is completely cleaned from the inside, if necessary - it should be dried using a building hair dryer or wiping it with a dry cloth.

Preparation for caulking pipes

warming up the pipe before caulking

First stage

So, we begin the dismantling of the cast-iron sewer with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flow through the disassembled pipe.

It is desirable (but not necessary) to agree with the neighbors from above to temporarily limit the use of water supply, and therefore sewerage. We free ourselves as much space as possible, disconnect all drain pipes. Special mention must be made of the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets are connected to the sewer system using corrugations, while the Soviet ones were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet bowl from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, but you need to chisel the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.
the beginning of caulking a cast-iron pipe with a chisel and a hammer
correctly executed partial caulking of the pipe

connection of a embossed pipe with a plastic pipe

Chasing

Pipe branch

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What is pipe stamping?

Why, despite the abundance of innovative materials, good old cast iron is still used in the construction of sewer communications? Because this material has high strength, and its consumer characteristics make it possible to make strong and reliable pipes from it that can withstand high loads even in urban sewer networks, and not just in domestic households at their summer cottage.

The socket connection guarantees a quick installation of the system. To ensure the sealing of the joints, the chasing of sewer pipes is used. It is one of the technological operations and is produced by ramming the sealant into the seam between the socket and the pipe. And in modern socketless SML communications, a cast-iron SML tee is used to organize branches, the tightness of which is ensured by special stainless steel clamps with seals.

Chasing of cast iron sewer pipes is carried out at the entrance of the intra-apartment riser to the apartment, as well as at the exit of the fan pipe - a communication element installed in residential buildings and having more than one floor level, designed to prevent odors from entering the room from the sewer.

But, if, for example, SML systems are designed for use in non-pressure networks, then traditional cast iron systems withstand hydraulic pressure up to 0.1 MPa. At the same time, high-quality chasing of sockets of cast-iron pipes is a critical operation in the process of installing the system, since the entire operation of the pipeline as a whole depends on the degree of sealing reliability. Chasing cast iron pipes can be done in several ways using different materials.

What materials are used

Chasing a pipe in a sewer system can be done using:

• cables;
• filling with gray.

And, if pouring with sulfur is considered the old Soviet way, then chasing pipes with a cable can be done by hand with minimal theoretical training and a set of tools.

Kabolka is a rope made of flax, hemp or jute impregnated with antiseptic and resinous substances. It is used for sealing joints and seams of sockets and, thanks to impregnation, provides high resistance to decay and biostability. The consumption of cable for chasing pipes is calculated based on their dimensions: the length of the strand must exceed the circumference of the pipe by 25%, and its thickness must be such that it fits snugly into the annular gap. In this case, the cable must be laid into the socket with three bundles so that the overlaps of its ends are in different places along the circumference of the pipe. In the construction of sewer systems, tarred strands are sometimes replaced with rubber rings.

The joint over the cable is sealed with different filler materials. They provide complete tightness of the connection, prevent the extrusion of the cable under pressure from the contents of the system. Used as a placeholder:

• cement;
• asbestos cement;
• lead.

The disadvantage of cement-based aggregates is their relative stiffness. If a leak forms at the joint, it is impossible to seal it without preliminary caulking, with minimal time and labor costs. Although asbestos cement is used to seal the joints of the sockets of cast-iron pipes, it has a higher elasticity compared to cement.

If sealing the seams of sockets with cement and asbestos cement is not difficult, then chasing cast-iron pipes with lead is a more complicated procedure and requires skills. After caulking the gap with a resin strand, a rope is placed in the socket gap, which is covered with a layer of clay on top. With the help of free ends, after almost complete drying of the binder, the rope is pulled out of the socket gap, and straightened lead is poured into the sprue formed in its place. In order for the vapors formed in the socket slot during its filling with lead to freely go outside, a hole is pierced in the side of the sprue.

Technology: main stages

Chasing the sockets of cast iron pipes begins with the identification of the type of sealant material. It can be cable or sulfur. After removing the waterproofing solution, you can determine which "seal" is in the socket.

If, after removing the waterproofing, when trying to loosen the joint, the process went quite easily, and the pipe began to swing or turn, we can assume that half of the work has already been done. This means that the socket is pressed with a cable and, in order to remove it, you just need to gently loosen the pipe, use a screwdriver to pick up part of the strand and pull out the entire roll. The procedure for dismantling a pipe installed on a cable is much simpler than caulking cast-iron pipes with sulfur.

If the nozzle is mounted on sulfur, the caulking procedure also begins with the removal of the waterproofing. But after that, the joint is heated with a blowtorch, as a result of which the joint sealant is completely melted. After the connection has cooled down, the pipe can be easily unscrewed from the socket.

Caution: chasing! Safety

When carrying out caulking, safety regulations must be observed. Personal protective equipment is especially important when removing a sulfur filling. When heated, sulfur releases a toxic gas that can cause poisoning if inhaled. Therefore, the caulking of the pipe on sulfur should be carried out in a gas mask.

When removing waterproofing - cement or asbestos cement - with a hammer and chisel, as well as when cleaning the pipe from sulfur residues, you should wear goggles.

Source: http://www.inrusstrade.ru/

Chasing a cast iron pipe

The one who assumes that it is easier to dismantle a sewer pipe than to install is mistaken. The first stage on the way to replacing an unusable element is the chasing of sewer pipes, or rather chasing. It takes a lot of hard work and dedication to do this job. This job is quite dirty and unpleasant.

Chasing a sewer pipe is required if the socket method was used during installation work.

Note! Chasing is performed in different ways, depending on which method was used to give strength and reliability to the connection.

To figure out how to caulk a sewer pipe, it is necessary to determine whether a sealant or sealant is used to connect cast iron pipes to each other.

• Chasing the pipe on the seal begins with the fact that it is tedious to beat off the waterproofing layer with a special rubberized hammer. After that, the joint is loosened, the camboca is removed, the sewer pipe is removed from the socket.
• The caulking of the pipe on the sealant is performed a little differently. First you need to tap the joint, then remove the waterproofing layer, burn the sealant with a blowtorch. Once the pipe has cooled, it can be easily removed from the socket.

Note! After the caulking has been done and the damaged part of the cast iron sewer pipe has been removed, it is not recommended to install a replacement from that material. It is better to replace the cast iron pipe with a plastic counterpart. Plastic is in no way inferior to cast iron, but is a lighter and cheaper material, and besides, it does not corrode.

Methods for caulking sewer pipes

When installing a sewer system using cast-iron pipes, which are connected in a “bell” way, voids are formed at the joints, which can adversely affect the functioning of the sewer. In order for the connection to be reliable and durable, caulking of sewer pipes is required. It can be made using different materials. Most often it is cement and asbestos cement.

Use of cement mortar

First you need to mount the resin seal in its place. The tarred rope must be tamped into the hole of the sewer pipe and the socket. After the formation of the first ring of the tourniquet, we overlap its end from above so that it cannot penetrate the pipe in any way.

Now you need to prepare the cement mortar. To do this, cement is poured with water, in a ratio of 9: 1. As soon as the solution cools down a bit, they need to fill in the junction. Using a hammer, we drive the cement into the joint. For a better fight between the solution and the tarred rope, it is necessary to cover the cemented joint with a damp cloth afterward.

Note! If you use extended caulking and embossing in the course of work, the installation speed will increase by 30%. If caulking is performed during the cold season, the cement mortar is prepared not in cold, but in hot water. After completing the work, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the joints.

The use of asbestos cement

The asbestos-cement mixture is also suitable for performing work on the sewer cast-iron pipe. In this case, the workflow will be slightly different.

• First you need to make a solution. To do this, in a container, mix a mixture of dry asbestos fiber with cement. For one part of the mixture you need to take two parts of cement.
• Now the resulting mixture needs to be slightly diluted with water so that it adds 10-12% of the mass, stir until smooth.

There is no fundamental difference in how the sockets of sewer pipes are caulked with an asbestos-cement mixture or cement mortar.

Note! Cast iron is a rather fragile material despite all its technical characteristics. During operation, it is exposed to water, solid waste, aggressive chemicals. In order to extend the life and improve the quality of service of sewer pipes made of this material, it is necessary to caulk the connections.

Before you start doing the work with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of chasing. The procedure is quite complicated and time consuming. Without even the slightest experience in carrying out construction work, you should not even take on the execution of caulking.

In this case, it is better to entrust the work to professionals, since if you make the slightest mistake, there is a risk of worsening the properties of the sewer system, which will reduce its durability, and the strength and reliability of the structure will suffer. For specialists, there is nothing difficult about how to mint a sewer pipe. They do the job quickly and efficiently. But if you are confident in your abilities, nothing will stop you from doing the work yourself.

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Source: heating.site

Preparation for repair

Sometimes it becomes necessary to repair some part of the sewerage system. However, such repairs can not always be made without disconnecting the pipes. When it is required to replace a pipeline section, you should first inspect the place of future work in order to determine how the pipes were connected to each other at one time.

Often the main difficulty is that pipes, especially those located in the ground, are filled with a special compound that prevents them from separating. In this case, the question arises of how to emboss a cast-iron pipe without much effort and time.

Pipe chasing technology

Do-it-yourself caulking of cast-iron pipes, carried out when replacing a riser or changing a toilet bowl, can create no less of a problem. In this case, it becomes necessary to caulk the branch pipe of the cast-iron pipe as accurately as possible. The embossing process looks like this:

1. The first action to be taken is to tap the socket of the pipe with a hammer, being careful not to split it, in order to avoid a complete replacement of the riser.
2. After making sure that the bell moves quite freely and can be released without any problems, since it was caulked with a heel, you can proceed with dismantling:
   • slightly loosen the bell from side to side;
   • pry with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • firmly grab the rope with pliers;
   • gently, slowly, pull out the rope, while continuing to loosen the tube.

1. In the case when the bell does not budge after tapping, that is, the caulking of cast-iron pipes was carried out by pouring sulfur, you will have to use the method of burning it out:
   • carefully heat the pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or burner;
   • trying not to damage the pipe, continue gently tapping the pipe with a hammer;
   • when the bell starts to move, slightly loosen it from side to side with an adjustable wrench.

1. After the bell is safely released, it must be cleaned using a chisel or chisel. Particular care should be taken to clean the socket seat, where the sealing rubber will be placed.
2. Coat the rubber seal with special grease and insert into the socket.
3. Install a new part in the seal.

Video of the caulking process

How cast-iron pipes are caulked - the video below will show even more clearly.

Chasing pipes

When assembling a system consisting of cast-iron pipes, it is necessary to foresee a method for closing the gaps that remain invariably between the outer side of the inserted part of the pipe and the inner surface of the socket. That is, you should think about how to mint cast-iron pipes. There are two ways to solve the problem, let's consider them in more detail.

Sealing of sockets with cement mixture

The chasing technology looks like this:

1. Resin seal installation.

• caulk the resin tourniquet into the socket up to 2/3 of its depth;
• when forming the first rope ring, wrap the end of the bundle over the ring so that it does not fall into the pipe.

1. The use of cement mortar.

• mix cement marking 300-400 with water (by weight) in a ratio of 9:1;
• the place remaining after compaction of the bundle in the socket should be filled with cement mortar;
• firmly strike the cement with a chasing and a hammer until the chasing rebounds from the cement;
• for a better setting of the solution after caulking, cover it with a wet rag.

To increase work productivity, it is worth using broadened caulking and embossing, which will speed up the process by about 30%.

Sealing of sockets with asbestos cement

Another way to caulk a cast-iron pipe is to use an asbestos-cement mixture. The process has two differences:

1. A dry mixture of asbestos fiber and cement is prepared by mixing them in a ratio of 1:2.
2. Before direct use, the dry mixture is moistened with water: from 10 to 12% of the initial mass of the mixture.

The chasing technology itself looks similar to the first method.

On this, a rather laborious work - chasing and / or chasing cast-iron pipes - is completed. To achieve the best result, however, such work should be entrusted to qualified specialists. Only in this case, you can be sure that everything will be done correctly, and you will not have to deal with more complex repairs, eliminating the flaws of poor-quality installation or dismantling.

Source: vse-o-trubah.ru

Work method

Depressurization of cast iron components is considered one of the very difficult tasks for self-repairing sewers. To perform the work as efficiently and quickly as possible, it is recommended to prepare in advance all the tools that you need.

To complete the work, you need:

• angle grinder (with its help you can cut off part of the pipe);
• grinding discs;
• goggles, gloves and a mask;
• soldering iron (needed to heat the joints);
• a hammer;
• screwdrivers of various sizes and combinations;
• pipe wrench;
• chisel.

Worth paying attention! To prevent the spread of bad odors around the room and the penetration of various debris into the pipeline, close the drain hole with a piece of cloth.

The sequence of work performed:

1. The first step before caulking a cast iron sewer pipe is to tap the joint with a hammer. However, this must be done carefully. Otherwise, you can ruin the structure, which leads to a complete replacement of the riser. It is also possible to carry out similar actions, often using a tool made of wood.
2. As soon as you finish tapping, you need to look at the condition of the fasteners. If the pipe goes from side to side, and it is possible to disconnect it, you need to do the following. It is necessary to swing the product by prying it with a screwdriver. The rope should be touched with pliers and carefully removed.

Advice! During the procedure, you should pump the pipe more and more.

1. If even after frequent and prolonged knocks with a hammer, the pipe did not change its position, we conclude that the fastening was carried out using sulfuric solution. To remove the fasteners, the dried mixture should first be burned out. This can be achieved in stages. The first step is to heat the joints with a soldering iron. Do it in a circle. Next, you need to continue to knock with a hammer, trying not to change the integrity of the product. If the structure of the components began to stagger, you can try to dismantle the component using a key.

Heating the joints with a soldering iron

1. Having successfully dismantled the product, you should do a detailed cleaning of the joints with a chisel. The emphasis must be on cleaning the edges, as a rubber seal will be placed here.
2. Before installation, the sealing material must be lubricated with a specialized substance.
3. The last step is the process of installing a new product in the prepared area.

Cleaning the junction

When burning sulfur, it is imperative to wear a mask for protection and goggles. They will not allow harmful vapors to enter the body.

Avoiding problems

It must be remembered that the technical properties of cast iron are not perfect. Products made from such material are quite fragile. Bad cast iron is subject to deformation under the influence of the liquid, as well as the processes that take place in it. A change in temperature regimes can also have a bad effect on the stability of such pipes, which reduces their ability to carry strong pressures.

The process of chasing cast-iron sewer pipes, as can be seen from the publication, is the simplest. As for the installation, then it will take a little work.

During the installation of components, it is necessary to apply heated resin

The installed component must be properly fixed at the junction by applying a layer of resin. A tighter fixation can be achieved with the help of special tools. They are sold in building materials stores.

Advice! Before caulking a cast-iron sewer pipe, the first thing to do is to calculate the space for installing a new pipe and, if necessary, appliances for home use.

If your plumbing system needs partial replacement, then you should not debug this process. This is due to the fact that even the smallest crack can grow in a fairly quick time, and will entail high costs.

Connection of sewer pipes

When installing pipes in a sewer pipeline, free spaces may appear at the joints. Very often this affects the good operation of the system. For a strong connection with the removal of all holes and empty spaces, special materials have to be used. The most common options are the use of cement and asbestos cement.

The use of cement mortars

Cement mortar for sealing joints

The sealing material must be installed first. To do this, you have to use a rope, which is filled with resin in advance. Then the prepared sealant must be wrapped around the edge of the pipe from the outside. This will make it possible to avoid the penetration of the rope into the depth of the pipe.

Important! The use of special tools will increase the speed of work by a third.

Prepare the solution as follows. The ratio of water and cement should be 9:1. In cold weather, a perfectly heated liquid must be used. After allowing the mixture to cool, it is imperative to apply it to the attachment areas. You can tamp the solution inside the seams with a hammer. To equip a more reliable fastening of cement to the surface and other materials, it is necessary to cover the finished area with a wet cloth.

Compound with cement and asbestos

A mixture of cement and asbestos for sealing pipes

The method of applying an asbestos-based solution is similar to the previous method. It is best suited for the installation of pipes made of cast iron and other materials.

• Mix dry asbestos with cement in a bowl in a ratio of 1: 2;
• Next, you need to add a minimum amount of water and let the mixture stand a little. Then mix the composition until homogeneous.

It is impossible to say which is the best way to fasten pipes. With the correct use of each of the attachment methods, you can achieve excellent results.

In order to qualitatively perform work on the dismantling and strengthening of components, you need to know all the nuances and rules of the procedure. Actually, then you can be sure that your system will serve for long years and will not let you know about itself. The process consists of a large number of difficult actions. Thus, in order to qualitatively fix the connections of cast-iron sewer pipes with your own hands, you should follow the tips and advice.

Source: offthevylc.ru

The embossing is done in the following order

First, it is necessary to very carefully, without undue effort, tap the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer in order to avoid complete replacement of the riser section in case of cracking.
By slightly loosening the dismantled pipe, it is necessary to make sure that the bell can move and rotate freely on the sides and can be gradually released from the chasing with a cable. Now you can dismantle it in the following order:
in all directions it is necessary to loosen the socket;
gradually pull out the rope and pick it with a thin straight object with a screwdriver or some kind of rod;
the rope must be firmly grasped with pliers;
continue to slowly loosen it and gently pull the rope.

The ineffectual tapping and immobility of the bell indicate that the chasing was performed using a special sulfur filling. In this case, it is necessary to perform the direct burnout procedure according to the following scheme:

It is necessary to carefully heat the socket section of the cast-iron pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or gas burner, while you must not forget to continue loosening, unscrewing and tapping the socket part of the pipe;

After it has moved from the place of the old embedment, it is necessary to continue to loosen it with the help of some tool, an adjustable wrench, etc.
After dismantling, it is necessary to carefully clean with any cutting tool a knife, chisel or chisel. When cleaning, special attention should be paid to the socket seat, on which sealing rubber will subsequently be installed.
Place greased into the cleaned socket. Install the required assembly in the seal.

Coin options

In order to firmly and hermetically construct a sewer system from cast-iron pipelines and parts for it, it is imperative to provide for the correct option for sealing the resulting gap filling the void between the pipes, which is always shown when the inner socket part of the pipe is butt-joined with its outer surface part.
It should be noted that the choice of the necessary consumables, the appropriate special tools for sealing work and the amount of time spent depend on the method of sealing the connection of cast-iron pipes. It is proposed to consider the currently existing two options for caulking cast iron joints.
1. The first option is the use of cement mortar

The procedure for sealing pipe joints with cement mortar consists of the following steps:
In the resulting gap between the pipes, it is necessary to lay a special tarred sealant. To make such a gasket, a conventional tourniquet pre-tarred in a special solution is used, which is driven into the gap formed between the pipe and the socket to a depth equal to 2/3 of the gap space. After creating the first sealing ring, it is necessary to put the end of the rope (tow) on top of this ring so that it does not end up inside the pipe being installed.
Next, it is necessary to seal the remaining part of the depth of the gap (1/3 of the remaining space) between the pipes with the prepared mortar from cement, already compacted with a tarred tourniquet in front of this. In order to increase the density and reliability of the caulking of the joints, it is required to use a special coinage together with a hammer, with which it is necessary to carefully tamp the cement mortar. The moment of the end of caulking is considered to be the beginning of rebounds of the caulking from the clogged cement seal. In order to obtain a high-quality setting of the cement mortar, it is necessary to cover the compacted area with a wet cloth, for example, gauze.
In order to prepare a cement mortar, you will need to purchase cement grade 300400. It must be mixed with water in a ratio of 9/1.
You can increase the speed of work when caulking with the help of special tools such as broadened caulking and caulking. At the same time, the entire process is accelerated by 30%.
If the work is carried out in winter at low ambient temperatures, then the cement mortar in this case must be kneaded in heated water, and it is also necessary to perform temporary insulation of the pipe joint sealed with cement.

2. The second option is the use of asbestos cement

This process is slightly different from the previous one and has its own procedure:
It is necessary to knead the asbestos fiber in a dry state with cement in a ratio of 1/2, respectively;
The collected dry mix must be kneaded in water before being used as a seal between pipes. The volume of water in the solution should be about 1012% of the total volume of the prepared mixture.
The process of caulking the gap between the pipes is carried out in a similar way in accordance with the established procedure for the first option for sealing the joints.

Such a procedure as chasing or chasing connections between has its own difficulties and difficulties with its own nuances and tricks. Therefore, in order to achieve a positive result with such laborious work, it is recommended to seek help from knowledgeable and experienced professionals. In this case, there is a guarantee that you can get rid of unnecessary hassle and costs during an unplanned replacement of risers as a result of, for example, unsuccessful tapping of the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer.

Cast iron is a heavy-duty, corrosion-resistant, durable material that can withstand heavy loads. Its main purpose is the device of sewer and water communication. But you should not completely pin your hopes on the cast-iron sewer, since it also has disadvantages, they need special care and repair. In this article, we will look at how to caulk cast-iron pipes with your own hands.

In order to exclude depressurization of individual sections of communications, it is necessary to repair the internal pipes in a timely manner and take preventive measures, removing lime deposits, rust and other organic growths from their surface.

Chasing

The essence of the preparatory work is to inspect and determine the welded places. There are two methods for gluing cast iron pipe parts: gluing the elements with a welding seam and pouring with a solution. Bonding of parts with a special solution is used if it is necessary to combine pipes of various configurations and diameters. And with a welding seam, fan pipes of the same diameter are mainly glued together. After a visual inspection of the sewer and determining the complexity of the work, you can proceed to the next stage - dismantling.

Most often, over the years, pipes grow together so strongly that it is very difficult to disassemble the sewer. In this case, you need a gas cutter, with which you can disconnect the spliced ​​sections in a short period of time and without effort.

Before proceeding with the caulking of pipes, it is necessary to turn off the water supply. If possible, it is necessary to shut off the water supply system.

The designated section of the pipe, which is to be replaced, is sawn off by a grinder. When sawing damaged areas, strong blows should not be made in order to prevent the formation of cracks in subsequent sections.
After the removal of damaged sections of the pipe is completed, they proceed to install a new pipe with a certain margin for its expansion.

The edges of the pipe, which are inserted into the pipe, are fixed together with a resin strand using a caulk.

Pipe branch

This process is very complex and differs markedly from the previous method. This is argued by the fact that this area is risky and if the caulking is carried out incorrectly, then the riser can be split along the drop line.

Before you start disassembling the pipe, you need to take a hammer and tap on the entire surface of the socket. When tapping, you can determine the method of embossing.

If the bell easily gives in and staggers, then it was minted with a rope and a camboca. In this case, you will need an ordinary screwdriver and pliers. When loosening, a rope should appear, which must be hooked with a screwdriver and taken out to the surface. To make it easier to pull out the rope, it must be grabbed with pliers at the same time, without ceasing to loosen the socket.

Caulking a cast-iron pipe with sulfur eliminates deformation and loosening, therefore, not a hammer or other percussion instrument will help with this. In this case, you will need a blowtorch or a gas burner to burn the sulfur seam. From a high temperature, sulfur will begin to dry out and fall off. After the sulfur has crumbled, take a hammer and follow the same procedure as described in the previous method of caulking a pipe with a rope.

Perform tapping until the bell starts to move, so that it is convenient to loosen the bell, take an adjustable wrench and begin to carry out oscillatory movements from side to side, pulling it towards you. The loosened socket is taken out with a chisel and cleaned.

The saddle should be flat without distortions so that the sealing gum lies tightly to the surface.

The surface of the gum is coated with silicone and inserted into the tee of the bell. At this stage, the caulking and caulking of the cast-iron pipe is completed.

Video

We bring to your attention a video dedicated to chasing pipes.

Cast iron pipes tend to be strongly associated with sewerage. Few people know that for more than two centuries they have been massively used for laying water supply lines. In this material, we will study the features of cast-iron water pipes, the GOST requirements for them, the methods of installation and repair used.

Cast iron or steel

Those who were in the cellars of Peterhof must have paid attention to the massive pipes that supply water to its famous fountains. This is one of the oldest cast-iron water pipes functioning to our time. It was built to last; at the same time, the builders of the royal residence, frankly, did not particularly consider the costs.

In the second half of the last century, economic expediency came to the fore. Indeed, why build a water supply system with a century and a half resource, if in 40 years the city area will be expanded and rebuilt with the laying of new highways?

It was then that steel main water pipes became widespread - relatively cheap and, most importantly, much more technologically advanced in terms of installation.

Tip: electric welding and external waterproofing with bitumen are performed much faster than manual chasing with pouring a socket.

The consequences of savings are quite predictable and are still being felt:

• The resource of a pipe laid in the ground, despite waterproofing measures, rarely exceeds 30-40 years. After this time, numerous fistulas in it make the amount of drinking water loss unacceptable.

It is curious: according to local authorities, in Sevastopol, the city where the author of the article lives, 40% of water is lost due to the deterioration of the water supply network.

• Not only that: the steel pipe is actively overgrown with lime deposits and rust from the inside. For a couple of decades, the clearance can decrease by 3-4 times with a corresponding drop in pressure and patency.

And how does cast iron look against this dull background?

• With the proper quality of external waterproofing, the actual service life of a pipe laid in the ground is at least a century.
• The pipeline practically does not overgrow from the inside.

The only problem with a cast-iron water pipe is its great sensitivity to ground movements: where the steel pipe is slightly deformed, the cast-iron pipe will burst.

Standard

The current iron standard was introduced in 1977; the last changes were made to the text quite recently, in 2011. So, what should be the cast-iron pipes for water supply in accordance with GOST 9583-95?

Dimensions

The standard provides for cast-iron water pipes of three classes according to wall thickness - LA, A and B.

Conditional passage, mm	Wall thickness, mm
	LA	BUT	B
65	6,7	7,4	8,0
80	7,2	7,9	8,6
100	7,5	8,3	9,0
125	7,9	8,7	9,5
150	8,3	9,2	10,0
200	9,2	10,1	11,0
250	10,0	11,0	12,0
300	10,8	11,9	13,0
350	11,7	12,8	14,0
400	12,5	13,8	15,0
500	14,2	15,6	17,0
600	15,8	17,4	19,0
700	17,5	19,3	21,0
800	19,2	21,1	23,0
900	20,6	22,3	25,0
1000	22,5	24,8	27,0

The mass of a linear meter of the pipe varies from 11.3 kg (65 mm, class LA) to 627 kg (1000 mm, class B). The standard provides for the production of socket pipes of measured length (2; 3; 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 9 and 10 meters) and random lengths from 2 to 10.5 m.

Requirements

The transition of the cylinder into the socket can be made with a slope or in the form of a ledge.

The dimensions of cast iron pipes for water supply may differ from the nominal within the following limits:

• Length of a measured pipe - +-20.
• Wall thickness - -1 + 0.5.
• Outer diameter (up to 300 mm) - + - (4.5 + 0.0015D).
• Outer diameter (over 300 mm) - +(4.0+0.0015D) -(5.0+-0.0015D).
• Inner diameter in the socket - + (2.5 + 0.002 D) - (1.5 + 0.002D).

Please note: D is taken as the nominal diameter when calculating tolerances.

The ovality cannot lead the pipe beyond the normalized deviations from the nominal size. The deviation of the actual mass of the pipe from the calculated one cannot exceed five percent. Pipes undergo hydraulic pressure tests, which are determined by their class and nominal size.

Note: the working pressure in the water supply lines usually does not exceed 3-4 atmospheres.
Up to 8-10 kgf / cm2, it can rise only after pumping, within the engineering system of a house or a small microdistrict.

The end of the pipe, opposite the socket, must be cut perpendicular to its axis with a deviation of not more than 0.5 degrees.

Inside and outside of the product are covered with a protective non-toxic material. In this case, the coating should not interfere with the sealing of the butt joint, peel off and soften at temperatures up to +60 C.

Important: at the request of the customer, pipeline elements can be supplied uncoated.

Installation and repair

How to caulk a cast-iron water pipe during installation? Can cracks and chipped sockets be repaired?

The main stage is its compaction with a cable, oiled organic fiber. The bundle fits into the centered socket connection as tightly as possible, after which it is additionally compacted manually using a chasing and a hammer.

It is not enough to seal the joint: the cable must be protected from biological decomposition, mechanical damage and other adversities.

How it's done?

• Ordinary cement grade 400. The water-cement mixture, prepared in a ratio of 1: 9, is hammered into the socket as tightly as possible and compacted by chasing until it starts to bounce off the cement plug. Then the socket is wrapped with wet rags for up to a day.

• Asbestos-cement mixture, prepared in a ratio of 1:2, followed by the addition of 10 - 12 volume percent of water. It compacts like cement; asbestos fibers prevent cracking.

Important: with the same success, you can use fiber - chopped fiberglass.

• Expanding cement. Unlike conventional, it does not require sealing.
• Sulfur melt with the addition of 10 - 15% ground kaolin. For obvious reasons, only a vertical or inclined socket can be poured; as a rule, gray assemblies are factory sealed.
• Lead melt.
• Finally, lead can be used for embossing on top of the caboose.. A thin bar of soft metal tightly fills the groove, reliably protecting the organic fiber.

Important: Lead and its compounds are toxic.
Asbestos fiber and fiber are also not so good for the respiratory system.
Hence the obvious instruction: when doing the corresponding work with your own hands, do not forget about personal protective equipment.

Repair of cast-iron water pipes is possible only with minor transverse or longitudinal cracks at a distance from the socket: in this case, a prefabricated cast-iron or steel clamp with a rubber gasket is applied to the pipeline section. In other cases (chipped sockets, longitudinal cracks of considerable length), the pipeline section is replaced.

Alternatives

VChSHG

First meeting

Under this abbreviation lies the so-called ductile cast iron with nodular graphite.

To explain the meaning of the term, you need to briefly delve into the jungle of physics.

• All the main differences between cast iron and steel - brittleness, low ductility and high resistance to corrosion - are determined by the presence in it of one of the forms of carbon - graphite.
• Ordinary graphite has the appearance of miniature flat flakes. However, during recrystallization, which occurs when certain additives (in particular, magnesium and its compounds) are introduced into the gray cast iron melt, it changes its shape to spherical.
• At the same time, the physical properties of the metal change significantly: it acquires toughness, ductility and resistance to shock loads, while maintaining corrosion resistance.

What is especially pleasant is that the price of a ton of material changes slightly during transformation. The total proportion of additives that cause carbon recrystallization does not exceed 0.08% by weight of cast iron.

Socketed water pipes made of ductile iron today are the main alternative to gray cast iron.

• They surpass cast iron pipes in compressive and bending strength, not to mention all types of polymer pipes. Accordingly, water supply lines can be laid with ductile iron pipes under busy highways and on unstable soils. They have all the qualities of steel, except for their Achilles' heel - low resistance to corrosion.
• The problem of time-consuming and low-tech chasing of bells has been completely solved. Instead of embossing, bells with annular rubber seals are used. Of course, with significant pipe sizes, the assembly of sockets involves the use of heavy equipment; however, the mass of these pipes will in any case prevent manual installation of the pipeline.

Note!
The use of rubber seals makes it possible to slightly deform the socket connection (change in the relative position of the pipes) without impairing the tightness.

Normative documents

The production of elements of pressure pipelines from ductile iron is regulated by a separate standard - GOST R ISO 2531-2008.

Let's highlight its key points.

1. According to the document, pipes and fittings can have nominal sizes from 40 to 2600 millimeters, which makes it possible to use ductile iron to create highways that feed entire cities.
2. The composition of the metal, according to GOST, should not have a harmful effect on the composition of water.
3. The length of the pipes is regulated by the standard depending on their nominal diameter:

The maximum allowable curvature is no more than 0.125% of the pipe length.

As an external coating of the pipeline, depending on the operating conditions, the following can be used:

• Metal zinc.
• Zinc paint (zinc powder in a polymer binder).
• Polyethylene.
• Polyurethane.
• Fiber cement.
• Adhesive polymer tape.
• Epoxy resin.
• Bituminous mastic or paint.

For internal protection of pipes and fittings, the use of:

• Cement mortars (Portland cement, Portland slag cement and aluminous cement).
• Polyethylene.
• polyurethane.
• Epoxy resin.
• Bituminous paint (mastics).

The marking of pipeline elements should indicate:

• Manufacturer (name or trademark).
• Year of manufacture.
• Indication of the material (VChShG).
• nominal size.
• The standard to which the product is manufactured.

Polyethylene

Polyethylene pressure pipes are the main alternative to cast iron plumbing today.

A detailed acquaintance with them is clearly beyond the scope of our material, so we will pay attention only to their key properties.

• The service life of polyethylene is estimated by manufacturers as a vague "50+" years. In practice, this material can be considered almost eternal.
• Deposits on the walls, which reduce the lumen of the pipe, cannot be in principle. The smooth surface of the polymer with extremely low adhesive qualities simply does not allow blockages to form.
• All connections are made by butt welding. The strength of the joint is at least 80% of the strength of the whole pipe.

The only claim to polyethylene, which allows cast-iron pipes to remain on the market to this day, is high ductility and, as a result, very moderate ring stiffness. A polyethylene main pipeline can be laid in deformable soil only with protection by a reinforced concrete gutter.

Conclusion

Something, but there was a lot of cast iron in the Soviet Union! All technologies were developed taking into account the use of this particular material. So in the laying of sewers, cast iron is still very much in demand. Of course, cast iron has many very significant advantages - it can withstand heavy loads, which allows you to assemble risers on many floors, it is durable, can perform its function for decades in damp or cold rooms, paint fits well on a cast-iron pipe, that is, it can be beautifully entered into design. In a word, a cast iron sewer pipe is a solid, durable thing. But in this thoroughness lies its main drawback. It is very difficult to disassemble, if necessary, a part of such a pipeline. And sometimes this is an urgent need. For example, you need an additional outlet or an existing outlet has become unusable. How to proceed?

Chased pipe before starting work

The best thing is when the work is done by a professional, a master of his craft. In this case, you can be sure of the quality and efficiency of the work performed. But this option is not always possible. Often, plumbing has to wait for weeks, and their prices, to put it mildly, are overpriced. It happens that this "master" has no experience in such works. Not all those who wear plumbing overalls are such.

Therefore, if you have at least some manual skills, then you can disconnect or, as they say, emboss the cast-iron sewer pipes yourself. Let's try to decide on the algorithm of actions.

Preparation for caulking pipes

First of all, you need to stock up in advance with all the necessary tools so that it is at hand. It is necessary to prepare an angle grinder (grinder), preferably adapted to work with 230 mm discs. For those places that cannot be approached by a grinder, you need to stock up on a hacksaw (it's good to have a few spare blades). You will also need: a simple hammer and a hammer with a rubber or wooden sole, an adjustable wrench, a chisel, pliers, several screwdrivers of different widths, a blowtorch and a respirator. And, of course, glasses, gloves and rags.

warming up the pipe before caulking

Depending on the way the pipes were minted, the condition of the minting and your skill, the operation could take several hours. This must be kept in mind. Of all plumbing repairs, caulking cast-iron pipes is perhaps the most time-consuming job. But don't let that scare you. Thousands of people have done this job successfully, and so can you.

First stage

So, we begin the dismantling of the cast-iron sewer with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flow through the disassembled pipe. It is desirable (but not necessary) to agree with the neighbors from above to temporarily limit the use of water supply, and hence sewerage. We free ourselves as much space as possible, disconnect all drain pipes. Special mention must be made of the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets are connected to the sewer system using corrugations, while the Soviet ones were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet bowl from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, but you need to chisel the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.

the beginning of caulking a cast-iron pipe with a chisel and a hammer

After removing the toilet, disconnecting the pipes, we get directly to the connection that needs to be minted. If you need to replace the final pipe, this makes the task much easier. If the problematic part of the pipe is located in the middle of the common pipeline or has additional branches, cutting is indispensable. Such a pipe cannot be moved, and without this it will not be possible to remove one pipe from the other. Therefore, the pipe is cut a few (2-4) centimeters from the socket of the previous pipe. By no means flush!

The incision is made by a grinder (in compliance with all safety regulations). If the location of the pipe does not allow it to be completely cut, then we finish the rest with a hacksaw. Do not try to break the undercut with a hammer or pry bar. It is very important to remember that cast iron is a brittle material. This fragility is unpredictable, you can hit it several times in vain in one place, and suddenly crack in another. The pipes that you are changing are already worn out, they may have shells and microcracks inside, through which the pipe can burst. And the danger lies precisely in the fact that a part of the bell can break off, which must be left intact. Otherwise, the next pipe will also have to be changed, and it can be part of a common riser or pass through an interfloor ceiling. Agree that this is a completely different level of problems.

correctly executed partial caulking of the pipe

Therefore, we carefully cut the pipe. You can make several longitudinal incisions on the rest of the pipe to the socket. To prevent foreign objects from entering the pipeline, plug the hole with a rag.

By the way, it is better to tie it to something just in case, to be sure that the rags will not fly into the riser.

Chasing pipes minted in different ways

Gently make a few blows with a hammer on the socket and try to loosen it. If there is slight movement, then the method of caulking is simpler, consisting of a rammed rope (kabolka). In this case, you should try to dig its top layer with a screwdriver of a suitable width and find the end. Then, having hooked the edge of the cable with pliers, we try to pull it out all the way, while shaking our rest of the pipe. Having pulled out the entire rope, we continue to shake the pipe in different directions, while pulling it towards ourselves.

The most undesirable, but, unfortunately, the most common method of minting in Soviet times was pouring sulfur compounds into the cavity. How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes connected in this way? To do this, you will have to use the only effective method - heating. Be sure to remember a simple thing: sulfur, and especially its vapors, are poison! Use a respirator without fail, and if possible, a gas mask! The process of heating sulfur with a blowtorch will take a long time, so if you do not have personal respiratory protection equipment, even if you have a good ventilation system, it is better not to start it at all. Health is more expensive!

connection of a embossed pipe with a plastic pipe

So, we heat the sulfur. Periodically tap on the pipe until it begins to noticeably move. This suggests that the consistency of sulfur has changed and it has become viscous. The pipe also got very hot, so we clamp it with an adjustable wrench and, just as in the previous case, we pull it towards ourselves, loosening it. Everything, the bell is free!

After the pipe is removed from the bell, it is necessary to clean it from the remnants of sulfur or kabolka. This is done with a chisel, screwdrivers and a chisel with a rubber mallet. Then everything inside is thoroughly wiped with a rag, especially the saddle of the bell, as the main working surface. The embossing process has been completed.

If the description of the process did not clarify everything, and you need to visually see how the caulking takes place, then try to find a video on the Internet on how to caulk a cast-iron sewer.

In most buildings built during the Soviet era, the sewer system is made of cast iron pipes. This is due to the fact that such products have not only a long period of operation, but also are not amenable to various influences. However, cast iron pipes require proper installation and proper use.

Compared to other types of communications, residential plumbing needs to be replaced very often (every few years). In addition, the installation of plumbing fixtures and repairs in the house may require changes in the design of the system. To perform caulking of cast-iron pipes in an apartment with your own hands, it is not necessary to undergo special training. This can be done with only the skills to work with a standard tool. How to properly dismantle the old pipe and install a new one, you can find out in this article.

Work algorithm

Chasing a cast iron pipe

Depressurization of cast iron elements is one of the most difficult tasks for self-repairing sewers. To do the work as quickly and efficiently as possible, it is recommended to prepare all the necessary tools in advance.

For work you need:

• grinder (with its help you can cut off part of the pipe);
• grinding discs;
• goggles, gloves and mask;
• soldering iron (useful for heating joints);
• a hammer;
• screwdrivers of different sizes and configurations;
• pipe wrench;
• chisel.

Note! To prevent the spread of unpleasant odors throughout the room and the ingress of various debris into the pipeline, close the drain hole with a piece of cloth.

The sequence of work performed:

1. The first step before caulking a cast iron sewer pipe is to tap the joint with a hammer. However, this should be done carefully. Otherwise, you can damage the structure, which will lead to a complete replacement of the riser. It is also possible to carry out such manipulations, often using a tool made of wood.
2. As soon as you finish tapping, you should pay attention to the condition of the fasteners. If the pipe runs from side to side, and it is possible to disconnect it, the following must be done. It is necessary to swing the product by prying it with a screwdriver. The rope should be hooked with pliers and carefully pulled out.

Advice! During the procedure, you should pump the pipe more and more.

1. If even after frequent and prolonged knocks with a hammer, the pipe did not change its position, we can conclude that the fastening was carried out using sulfuric solution. To remove fasteners, you must first burn the dried mixture. This can be achieved in several stages. The first step is to heat up the joint with a soldering iron. You need to do this in a circle. Next, you need to continue to knock with a hammer, trying not to violate the integrity of the product. If the structure of the elements began to stagger, you can try to dismantle the element with a key.

Heating up the joint with a soldering iron

1. Having successfully dismantled the product, you should thoroughly clean the joints with a chisel. The emphasis should be on cleaning the edges, as a rubber seal will be installed in this place.
2. Before installation, the sealing material must be lubricated with a special agent.
3. The last step is the installation of a new product in the prepared area.

Cleaning up the junction

When burning sulfur, it is imperative to wear a protective mask and goggles. They will not allow harmful vapors to enter the body.

Avoiding problems

With a strong impact on the pipe, cast iron can deform

It must be remembered that the technical characteristics of cast iron are not ideal. Products made from such material are quite fragile. Low-quality cast iron is subject to deformation when exposed to liquid, as well as the processes that take place in it. Changing temperature regimes can also negatively affect the resistance of such pipes, which reduces their ability to carry strong pressures.

The process of chasing cast iron sewer pipes, as can be seen from the article, is quite simple. As for the installation, here you will need to work a little.

When installing elements, you need to use heated resin

The element to be installed must be qualitatively strengthened at the junction by applying a layer of resin. A tighter fixation can be achieved with the help of special tools. They are sold in hardware stores.

Advice! Before caulking a cast iron sewer pipe, the first thing to do is to calculate the space for installing a new pipe and, if necessary, household appliances.

If your plumbing system needs partial replacement, then this process should not be postponed. This is due to the fact that even the smallest crack can grow in a fairly short time, which will entail high costs.

Sewer pipe connection

During the installation of pipes in the sewer pipeline, empty spaces may appear at the joints. Often this affects the correct operation of the system. For a high-quality connection with the removal of all holes and voids, it is necessary to use special materials. The most popular options are the use of cement and asbestos cement.

The use of cement mortars

Cement mortar for sealing joints

The sealing material must be installed first. To do this, you need to use a rope that is pre-impregnated with resin. Then the prepared seal must be wrapped around the edge of the pipe from the outside. This will prevent the rope from getting into the depth of the pipe.

Important! The use of special tools will increase the speed of work by a third.

Prepare the solution as follows. The ratio of water and cement should be 9:1. In cold weather, a well-heated liquid should be used. After allowing the mixture to cool, apply it to the attachment areas. You can tamp the solution inside the seams with a hammer. To ensure better adhesion of cement to the surface and other materials, it is necessary to cover the finished area with a wet cloth.

Compound with cement and asbestos

A mixture of cement and asbestos for sealing pipes

The method of using an asbestos-based solution is similar to the previous method. It is perfect for mounting pipes made of cast iron and other materials.

Action algorithm:

• Mix dry asbestos with cement in a bowl in a ratio of 1:2;
• Next, add a small amount of water and let the mixture stand for a while. Then mix the composition until smooth.

It is impossible to say which is the best way to fix pipes. With the correct application of any of the fastening methods, good results can be achieved.

In order to qualitatively carry out work on the dismantling and strengthening of the elements, you should know all the subtleties and rules of the procedure. Only then can you be sure that your system will last for many years and will not make itself felt. The process consists of many complex steps. Therefore, in order to qualitatively fix the connections of cast-iron sewer pipes with your own hands, you must follow the tips and recommendations.

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How to caulk a cast-iron pipe?

Boris Natanovich, Omsk asks a question:

Hello. In my apartment in the toilet, an old cast-iron pipe is leaking under the toilet. I want to solve this problem myself. Therefore, I appeal to those who know and can tell in detail how to mint a cast-iron pipe. How to mint it, I have a rough idea. I've been involved in this type of work before. But how you can mint, I have absolutely no idea. While there is time, I want to do this laborious process. Therefore, I am waiting for various recommendations with different ways of caulking cast iron pipes so that I can start working. Thanks in advance to everyone who will answer my question.

The expert answers:

Before you start chasing cast iron pipes, you need to choose the method that suits you.

The caulking of cast-iron pipes, which accompanies the change of a toilet bowl or a riser, involves caulking a pipe, which is performed as carefully as possible. The slicing procedure is as follows:

How to emboss a cast iron pipe?

1. First of all, the bell at the pipe is tapped with a slight effort of the hammer, trying to exclude its split, so that the riser does not have to be changed completely.
2. Feeling the free movement of the bell and that it can be freed from chasing with a cable, proceed to dismantling:

• loosen the socket in different directions;
• pick up with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
• firmly grasp the rope with pliers;
• without haste, they try to pull out the rope, while continuing to loosen the pipe.

1. If the tapping did not give results, the bell remains motionless, which means that the caulking was done by filling with sulfur. The burning method is used for the latter:

• by means of a burner or a soldering lamp, the cast iron is heated in a circle, trying not to harm the pipe, at the same time they are tapping with a hammer;
• if the bell moves a little from a place, it is loosened in different directions with an adjustable wrench.

1. After the successful release of the bell, it is cleaned using a chisel or chisel. With special care, the socket saddle is cleaned, on which rubber will be put on for sealing.
2. The sealing rubber ring is coated with a special lubricant, and then inserted into the socket.
3. Mount the new element in the seal.

Cast iron pipe caulking technology

When assembling a system represented by cast iron pipes, it is worth deciding in advance on the option of filling voids that necessarily occur during installation between the outer surface on the pipe and inside - on the socket. In other words, you should choose a method of how to mint cast-iron pipes in this case. In practice, two options are used, which we will consider.

Method 1: grouting

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The installation of a resin sealant is carried out: the resin bundle is tamped into the hole of the socket and pipe at 2/3 of the depth. When the first ring of rope is formed, the end of the bundle is overlapped on top of the ring to prevent it from penetrating into the pipe.
2. Pouring cement content.

Cement grade 300-400 is mixed with water in a ratio of 9 to 1. The space free from the tourniquet (1/3 of the volume) in the socket is poured with a cement composition. The solution is minted as tightly as possible by caulking with a hammer until the caulking begins to bounce off the cement sealant. For a better setting of the cement, it is covered with a moistened cloth.

Tip: Broadened chasing and caulking will help increase productivity, which speeds up the procedure by as much as 30%. When performing work in winter, cement is kneaded in hot water, and after sealing the joints with it, mandatory insulation is carried out.

Method 2: embedding with asbestos cement

This procedure has some differences:

• in dry form, asbestos fiber and cement are kneaded, respectively, 1 to 2;
• immediately before use, the dry mixture is poured with water, the latter should be 10-12% of the total volume of the mixture.

The very procedure of chasing is performed by analogy with the first method.

That's all the subtleties of such a laborious process called chasing / chasing. Naturally, the best results in work can be achieved when professionals get down to business. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to specialists. And then you definitely won’t have to redo everything, getting rid of old flaws.

The main advantage of cast iron is durability, its main disadvantage is brittleness. These two features must be taken into account when maintaining and repairing cast iron pressure pipes.
The brittleness of cast iron imposes certain requirements on the connection of cast iron pipes. On the one hand, it must be strong and tight, and on the other hand, it must be sufficiently elastic. The fact is that pipes laid in the ground do not lie motionless. The soils are also characterized by shrinkage and blurring. When freezing, the water in the ground expands. All this leads to the movement of the ground. The pipe, as they say, "walks". Traditionally this problem is solved chasing pipes- connecting pipes in such a way that there is a margin of elasticity at the joints.
The smooth end of one pipe is inserted into the socket of the other. A small 3-5 mm gap remains at the junction, which is caulked with a resin strand (kabolka) two-thirds of the depth. The strand is a thin rope, which is inserted into the gap in layers. After each turn, the strand is compacted with a caulk - a special tool. Such a connection allows you to connect the pipe hermetically, but with a margin of elasticity.
To increase the strength of the joint, the remaining third of the gap is cemented or filled with lead. The second option is more reliable and preferable, because. connections in pressure pipes experience significant loads. Both procedures are quite complex and time-consuming. Cement behaves capriciously at high or low humidity, work with the melting of lead requires dexterity and additional preparations.
More advanced methods of connecting cast-iron pressure pipes are currently being used. For example, a socket with a rubber sealing ring and a socket-screw connection. But these compounds began to be used relatively recently. Recall that the advantage of cast iron is durability. The service life of cast iron pressure pipes is more than a hundred years. And, therefore, pipelines made according to old technologies are still actively exploited.
Chasing socket connection can be safely called the weakest point of the cast-iron pipeline. Under the influence of moisture, temperature changes and soil movement for decades, the coinage is destroyed. Typically, accidents caused destruction of coinage, are eliminated for a long time. Procedure minting time-consuming, requiring a certain skill. But even high qualification does not guarantee the absence of marriage. The liquidation of an accident is often carried out in difficult conditions: low temperatures, difficult access to the damaged area, watering of the pit, humidity that prevents the solution from hardening. Fussing with molten lead in such conditions is generally more like a repairman's nightmare. Alas, this dream often comes true. It is almost impossible to perform high-quality coinage during the liquidation of a complex accident.
Our company's product range includes a special type of fittings that can significantly reduce the time required to eliminate this type of accident and improve the quality of repair work on a cast-iron pipeline. This is a socket sealer DZ. With him, all work comes down to installing the product on the socket connection and fixing it with a conventional wrench. The rubber gasket securely seals the joint, without depriving it of the necessary elasticity, and the design itself firmly fixes the joint. Work can be carried out even without completely shutting off the pressure, but only by lowering it so that the leak does not interfere with the repair team. The reliability of the connection of cast-iron pressure pipes with the help of a socket joint sealer is several times higher than the reliability of traditional caulking. And, therefore, once the work is done, the problem will be eliminated once and for all.