How to grow grapes from cuttings in spring. Germination and rooting of grape cuttings at home: rules for growing and planting in spring in the ground

396 07/31/2019 5 min.

Getting a good productive and profitable vineyard requires a serious investment of resources, time and effort. However, it is possible to get significant savings if you follow the generally accepted instructions and tips. There are several ways to grow grapes, and one of the simplest is cuttings. Such cuttings must be properly harvested, stored and planted. In addition, in the future, such vineyards will require high-quality care and protection from the cold. How to properly and simply organize this whole laborious process will be discussed in this article.

Landing dates

The period of care and harvest depends largely on the chosen timing of planting grapes. He will tell about growing grapes in the Urals.

spring

It is best to plant cuttings in the spring when the soil warms up to a temperature of about ten degrees Celsius. It is important to take all precautions against possible frosts (especially in the northern regions). Depending on the part of Russia, such a period falls, as a rule, at the end of April-beginning of May. Read about the Alpha grape variety.

According to the lunar calendar

The lunar calendar is often used by gardeners and gardeners for planting. It can also be applied to grapes. So, it is recommended to plant cuttings in the growing moon. In the current 2018 favorable periods will look like this:

• from the twentieth of February to the end of the month;
• from the twenty-first to the twenty-eighth of March;
• from the nineteenth to the twenty-seventh of April.

Preparing the stems

It is recommended to harvest cuttings from mid-autumn and no later than the first day of winter. The diameter of the scion should be at least a centimeter, and it should contain no more than eight, but no less than four buds. The cut is best made oblique. When choosing, it is also important to be guided by the length of the shoot - the longer it is, the better. Find out about Gurzuf pink grapes by.

Chubuki before planting should be soaked in clean water (preferably thawed) for two to three days. If landing is not planned in the near future, it is possible to carry out the treatment with potassium permanganate, wrap it with a film and send it to the cellar for storage.

If it is not possible to prepare your cuttings due to lack of time or the vineyard itself, there is always the opportunity to buy them in the spring at specialized sites.

It is necessary to choose only those cuttings on which there are live buds.

Methodology

The quality of rooting, the viability of the grapes and the future harvest will depend on how much the preparation and planting will be carried out.

Location selection

The site on which the landing will be made should be well lit and located on a small hill. Moisture will accumulate in the lowlands, which can cause crop diseases. The soil should be well drained with pebbles or artificial drainage. It is best to have vineyards on the south or southwest side.

From the choice of the right place for planting depends on the yield, speed of development and longevity of plants.

Grapes do not get along well next to other plants, so it is recommended to plant them at a great distance from them.

Necessary fertilizers

For the first time, fertilizers are recommended to be applied in the fall during the initial preparation of the soil. In this case, it is possible to introduce mullein into the soil. Further, complex mineral fertilizer (potassium salts, superphosphates, nitrogen additives) is useful to put on the bottom of the hole when planting. With such top dressing, the plants will have enough food for three to four years. In the future, it will also be necessary to periodically make organic and mineral additives (litter, manure, compost, potassium salts, superphosphates, ammonium nitrate, urea). Read about the main characteristics of the Carmenere grape variety.

Landing Features

Before transplanting the cuttings into open ground on the ridges, you can germinate the seedlings at home.

In bottles, glasses, pots

After the cuttings give roots, it is necessary to prepare a container for the seedlings. Glasses and containers, pots, bottles are suitable for this. They will need to be filled with substrate. It is recommended to plant at a depth of five to six centimeters. In cut bottles, it is important to add soil so that the top kidney of the shank is flush with the edge of the container.

Seedlings need to be watered once every two days. At one time, one hundred milliliters of warm water per glass (pot) is enough. It is also useful to periodically loosen the soil and make a small amount of top dressing. We should not forget about the temperature regime. Under these conditions, it should be from twenty to twenty-five degrees Celsius.

At the bottom of the pot or glass must be a layer of drainage. The amount of soil for growing is at least seven tablespoons.

Step-by-step instructions for planting in the ground

The area prepared for planting grapes is called shkolka. The scheme of planting cuttings in it is as follows:

1. Dip the top of the cutting melted paraffin for protection. Treat the lower part with stimulating compounds.
2. dig holes not less than seventy centimeters deep.
3. Put fertilizer on the bottom of the recess and mix them with the soil that is there.
4. Fill the hole with loose soil, make a recess for the handle in it with a stick.
5. Plant the cutting to a depth of about half a meter. Lightly compact the soil.
6. Pour in some water.

In the same way, it is possible to plant seedlings from glasses and pots in a school. To do this, you will need to lay them in a hole along with a clod of earth. Plants do not need to be removed from peat glasses. It is necessary to water the cuttings with warm water.

Video

This video shows the propagation of grapes by cuttings (chibouks).

findings

1. Possible to save money and time, since raw materials will be used own.
2. Before landing, it is necessary to properly prepare and process the chibouks, as well as take care of the shkolka.
3. Grapes planted by cuttings do not need frequent feeding and watering.

Cutting grapes in the fall is the easiest and most effective way to propagate a crop. From the harvested shoot, it is possible to grow a full-fledged bush that has retained all the maternal qualities of the old vineyard. For a novice gardener, the first experience may not be successful, but do not despair. Simple instructions will help you preserve and propagate your favorite variety.

How to prepare grape cuttings in the fall

To obtain a positive result, it is important to properly harvest grape cuttings in the fall and store until spring. To grow a new strong seedling will be obtained from a mature vine.

Procurement terms

Propagation cuttings can be cut in autumn and spring. However, the best results can only be obtained from the material of the autumn harvest. In winter, under shelter, part of the kidneys freezes, rots, rodents like to feast on them. In the spring, a bad seedling will grow from a cut twig.

Autumn is still convenient for harvesting cuttings due to the mass pruning of the vine. Before the onset of winter, the vineyard stops moving juice. Pruning is painless.

Choosing the Right Vine

When cutting grapes in the fall at home, you need to learn how to choose a good vine. After all, a weak bush will grow out of bad chubuks. Only a young mature vine is suitable for propagation. It can be identified by its smooth golden brown bark. The ripened vine makes a slight crackle when bent. The twig feels slightly warm to the touch. An unripe vine, when bent, can break, juice will come out from under the bark. Such a branch is usually soft and cold to the touch, if it is clasped in the palm of your hand.

Advice! When grafting, shank should be cut from the most fertile bush.

slicing

A branch cut off from a bush in autumn is not all used for reproduction. Ideally suited from the bottom to the middle. The upper part is thrown away, since this area never fully matures. The degree of maturity of the whip growers determine empirically. The cut site is immersed in a 1% iodine solution. If the wood quickly turned purple, then the branch is considered mature. The presence of a green tint on the cut indicates the immaturity of the shoot.

For cuttings, chibouks with a thickness of 7 to 10 mm are considered productive. Top thickness up to 6 mm is allowed. A thin vine is cut from grapes in the case when such a characteristic is a varietal feature of the crop.

It is optimal to cut chibouks with five or more internodes from autumn. In the spring, the workpiece is shortened, leaving a healthier part. If there are not enough vines to trim, you can cut short shank with three or four internodes.

For cuttings use a sharp pruner. The cut should be even, without crushed wood. Leaves left from autumn, lignified mustaches, side shoots are removed from the branch. The whip is placed in front of them, determine the direction of growth. The upper cut with pruners is made in the middle between pairs of internodes. The lower cut is performed immediately below the kidney. Chubuks cut in autumn are signed with a marker directly on the bark or a tag is attached.

Advice! The optimal length of a sprig harvested in autumn for propagation is 70 cm.

Disinfection

After grafting, the chibouks are disinfected. The branches are treated with a 3% solution of copper sulphate, dried, tied with wire or rope, and sent for storage. It is possible to soak the twigs for a day in clean water before disinfection so that the wood is saturated with moisture before storage.

In the video, harvesting grape cuttings in the fall:

Storage

Twigs prepared in autumn for propagation are stored in a cold place. Suitable basement, cellar, refrigerator. The optimum temperature for storage is from 0 to +4 ° C. Vine growers sometimes practice a trench storage method. Chibouks cut in autumn from the vine are buried for the winter in grooves 50 cm deep. In this state, they are stored until spring.

If we exclude the trench method, then it is better to store twigs in boxes. Sand 10 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the container, the chibouks are laid out, sand is again poured on top and so on until the box is filled. Material prepared in autumn for propagation is sent to a cold room. Periodically check the moisture content of the sand. If it dries out, lightly moisten with water.

At least once during the winter, grape branches are shifted. The top chibouks are sent to the bottom of the box, and the bottom ones are sent to the top. At the same time, the propagation material is inspected. Cuttings of grapes with severe rot are thrown away. If mold has just begun to appear on the bark, the twigs are washed with a solution of potassium permanganate, dried and sent back to the box.

The easiest way is to store the breeding material prepared in the fall in a trench way. Chubuk grapes do not need to be shifted in winter. Under a layer of earth and snow, the optimum temperature and humidity are maintained. The storage technology is simple. After grafting in the fall, the grapes are subjected to disinfection. In the garden, they dig a trench 50 cm deep, cover the bottom with a film so that its edges extend beyond the walls. Sprigs of grapes are laid out along the groove, covered with the free edges of the film. A board or any other shield is laid on top, which is covered with a layer of earth 25 cm thick. Grape twigs buried since autumn are taken out only in spring after the snow melts.

Preparing grape cuttings for planting

In late February and early March, the process of grape cuttings is resumed. If in the fall the propagation material was properly harvested, then in the spring it will make good seedlings. However, first the chibouks need to be awakened after hibernation:

• The material stored since autumn is removed from the sand, subjected to a viability test. As it was done during cuttings, a cross section is made on each twig of grapes with a secateurs. Droplets of juice should come out of the wood. Such material is suitable for reproduction. If no drops come out of the cut, then such a twig of grapes is considered dried up. For further reproduction, he will not go. When squeezing the twig with a pruner, drops of water can come out of the bark. This is what happens in a rotten vine. Material for further reproduction will not work.

  Important! A new cut of grapes suitable for propagation should be light green in color.

• The twigs of grapes that have passed the test and are ready for propagation are soaked for two days with warm water. A day later, they change it. Water is taken from melted water or from other sources where there are no chlorine impurities. After soaking, the grape twigs are placed in a container where a root formation stimulator is poured.

The further process of grape cuttings is reduced to the germination of the material. You can get a seedling in the following ways:

In addition to the considered cuttings, there are other options for propagating grapes in the fall with the help of green cuttings and layering.

In autumn, grape seedlings can be obtained by cuttings from a green twig. The method of propagation of grapes by green cuttings in autumn is based on the use of a young, unripened vine. The cuttings are cut in mid-June into two buds long. The cutting angle is sharp. Sprigs prepared for propagation are placed in a glass of rainwater. Plastic containers are prepared for planting. You can take cut off 5 l bottles. Containers are filled with a mixture of black soil with compost, taken in equal quantities. The lower part of the green branch of grapes is cut so that a 4 cm ledge from the kidney remains. All leaves are removed except for the top one. 4 branches of grapes are planted in one container, a film greenhouse shelter is equipped. Grape seedlings are aired and watered once a week. After a month and a half, the stalk should take root, take root. The cover is removed. At the end of August, the grapes are planted outside. By mid-autumn, a full-fledged seedling grows about 40 cm high.

The most reliable and easiest way is to propagate grapes by layering in the fall from a mature vine. The lashes, without cutting off from the bush, about 1.5 m long, are laid on the bottom of the dug groove. The top with 2-4 eyes is brought to the surface of the trench, vertically tied to a peg. From the part of the whip that will be covered with earth, break off all the buds and leaves. For reliability, the grape vine is pinned with wire. The trench is half covered with soil, watered abundantly. After soaking up the water, the groove is completely covered with earth. When the layer takes root, and the upper part grows, the lash is cut off from the mother bush. It turns out an independent grape seedling.

The video talks about grape cuttings:

Grape cuttings in the fall are an easy way to get seedlings for beginner gardeners. There are other ways to propagate a culture, such as grafting, but it is difficult for a beginner to make it. It is easier to give preference to cuttings or layering.

Fruitful grapes are propagated vegetatively - by cuttings, layering or grafting. Seeds are sown only for breeding purposes. Amateur gardeners successfully practice spring rooting of grape cuttings at home.

What is a stalk (chubuk) of grapes

A cutting is a segment of a stem with several buds.

These cuttings will grow vines.

For reproduction at home, lignified twigs are taken from a mature (brown) vine. They are called cuttings or chibouks.

Advantages of cuttings

Cultivation of grapes by cuttings is a simple procedure available to any grower, even a beginner. This method has many advantages. :

1. Availability of planting material.
2. The ability to quickly get a large number of seedlings.
3. The cuttings are compact, are at rest; they are easy to store, transport, send by mail.
4. Planting material is very simple.
5. The cost of cuttings is significantly lower than that of seedlings.

Cuttings are the most common way to propagate grapes.

Lignified cuttings can be planted directly in open ground (spring or autumn), but very often home rooting is used (late winter or spring).

Pros of the home option

• compact organization of space;
• the ability to control the process of rooting and development;
• removal of negative weather factors;
• a significant run in time, allowing you to grow strong bushes for planting in the current season.

When the snow melts outside the window, solid seedlings will already form from the cuttings.

Growing grapes from cuttings at home makes it possible to obtain full-fledged seedlings in (in the Moscow region, in Siberia, in the Urals), even on the northern borders of this zone.

Procurement of planting material

For winter-spring germination, cuttings are taken from matured (lignified, crackling, brown) annual vine. They are harvested during the autumn pruning of grape bushes (approximate time - in October, until negative temperatures are established, until the ground freezes). In uncovered areas, spears for propagation can be cut at the end of autumn and in winter - from the vine without signs of freezing or withering.

Harvesting cuttings is usually combined with autumn pruning.

It is desirable to obtain material for propagation from the most productive and healthy bushes with typical varietal characteristics. Smooth branches without spots and other defects are considered suitable. If possible, choose for cuttings. middle part those shoots that have grown from central buds of biennial branches.

The optimal cutting thickness is from 0.5 to 1 cm(for varieties with a thin vine, this figure may be less).

Too thick, fattening stems have loose wood, it is not recommended to take them.

Shank length

The length of the chubuk is not measured in centimeters. It is determined by the number of kidneys (eyes).

Three-eyed cuttings of grapes.

More often used two-eye and three-eye cuttings, although one-eye and four-eye are also suitable. In the process of cutting, the antennae and stepchildren, the remains of foliage are removed (cut off) from the branches. Sometimes long vines are kept in winter ( 50-100-170 cm), and cut them before rooting.

The upper cut is made straight, at a height of 20-40 mm above the upper kidney. The lower cut is made oblique - under the lower kidney, stepping down a little from it (it will be updated before planting). It can be difficult for a novice grower to determine on a cut vine - where is the top and where is the bottom.

Sections on a stalk of grapes.

Straight and oblique cuts, made directly near the growing bush, help subsequently to understand this issue. (The photo shows that the pointed tip of the kidney looks a little up, but the antennae are often directed downward. A small scar is visible under the kidney: this is a trace of a fallen leaf petiole.)

Chubuki tied into bundles, bandaged in two places. Immediately attach tags with the names of varieties. Further, the bundles need to be stored for several months. They are pre-processed.

Processing before storage (step by step)

1. soaked in water (preferably rain) for 12 hours (received by shipment, dried up - for 24 hours); they are laid horizontally so that the water covers them completely, in a small layer;
2. disinfect : dipped for 15 seconds in a solution of iron sulfate (300 g per 10 l of water) or copper sulfate (400 g per 10 l); or sprayed with one of these drugs; after treatment with iron sulphate, the vine may then turn black - this is normal;
3. dry a couple of hours on paper or fabric;
4. some gardeners wax the tips (cuts) – dipped in paraffin (wax) melted in a water bath and slightly cooled (until a film appears on top);
5. As soon as possible, and before that they are wrapped in a plastic bag or cling film.

Pipes prepared in this way usually keep well.

Storing cuttings before planting

Humidity of 80–95% and temperature of +1 +4 degrees (not higher than +8) are considered ideal conditions for preservation.

Planting material is kept in the cellar (underground, basement) or in the refrigerator, as well as on the street - in a snowdrift or in a trench.

Snowdrift

A snowdrift with a thickness of 20 cm or more protects the cuttings well from frost, the main thing is not to let it thaw.

In areas with stable snow cover, it is convenient to store cuttings in a snowdrift, at a depth of at least 50 cm. In loose snow - optimal temperature and humidity.

Before snowfalls, the cut vine can be wrapped with wet burlap and kept at first simply in the garden on the ground, and with the arrival of frosts - in a cellar or other room with low positive temperatures. Chubuki are laid in the snow “naked” or pre-packed (in sugar bags, in cut polyethylene bottles).

Trench

Cuttings can simply be placed in a hole and covered with earth.

1. Dig a hole or trench deep in the garden 50–100 cm .
2. In it, bunches without packaging are placed vertically on a layer of slightly damp sand, covered with the same sand from above, then they throw the earth up to the upper edges of the pit and with a mound on top, cover with a film; apply also overlapping with slate or boards.
3. Sometimes they simply pack the vine in a bag of sugar (or in cut plastic bottles) and bury it in the ground to a depth of half a meter. The disadvantage of this method is that it will be difficult to get chibouks until mid-spring.

Some growers combine a shallow trench and (on top) a low snowdrift. The pit is not covered with earth, a cover is placed on it. With this option, planting material is easy to take at the right time.

in the cellar

When stored in the cellar, the cuttings are placed in a box with sand.

There are several accommodation options.

1. Chubuks are placed vertically, with the lower end placing:

• into potatoes
• in a small layer of moss,
• in slightly moistened sand (deepening by 5 cm);
• in a bucket of water (the water layer is only 3–5 cm).

1. Whole cuttings are buried in slightly moistened sawdust or sand (with an admixture of charcoal dust).

In the refrigerator or cellar

If there are few cuttings, they can be placed in the refrigerator.

Use packaging.

1. Chubuki are simply placed in a plastic bag (garbage bag) or in a sugar bag. The packaging is lowered into the cellar or placed in the refrigerator (on the door or in the vegetable compartment). Sometimes the vines are pre-wrapped (especially the bottom cut) in a slightly moistened newspaper. The package is not tightly tied. In early January, newspapers are opened once for airing and moistening.
2. Each stalk is wrapped in cling film.
3. The bundle is placed in a package of two cut polyethylene bottles. The joint is wrapped with tape. 1-2 times during the winter air.

There is also such a method of storage: the cuttings are kept on weight in a deep well (above water).

Timing of awakening (when do grapes begin to germinate?)

Experienced growers are advised to start this work in February (usually in the second half of the month) or early March.

Those who are accustomed to consulting the lunar calendar avoid starting rooting in the barren sign of Aquarius. The development of callus and roots is activated during the waning moon. Sometimes the influx of callus and roots are formed during storage; they need to be protected.

Processing before rooting

Disinfection of cuttings in a solution of potassium permanganate.

The cuttings are taken out of storage and washed with a solution of potassium permanganate (medium strength), if there are traces of mold. It is important to correctly assess the condition of the planting material, reject the bad one, and prepare the normal one for germination.

Preservation check

1. Examine the bark: healthy - without wrinkles and blackening.
2. Make a cross section of the stem. A thin layer of cambium under the bark and all wood should be a light green hue. But the brown, black, white color is evidence of death.
3. In several branches, the lower buds are cut. Living eyes are bright green inside.
4. When pressed with a knife near the cut, a little moisture is normally released from the wood. If there is too much or not at all, the rooting percentage will be low.

Soak

After inspection, the cuttings are placed in a container with melt water for 1-2 days.

• Not only overdried, but also normal cuttings needs to be soaked before sprouting .
• They are completely placed in a small layer of water. (preferably melted, snowy) for a period of 12 hours to two days.
• Room temperature - about +20 degrees.
• Water is changed every 12 hours.
• Sometimes a little honey is added to it (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

pruning

Long vines are cut into cuttings with 2-3 eyes.

Pruning a cutting of grapes under the lower kidney.

At chubuks, cut from autumn, update the lower sections . They are made directly under the lower nodes - obliquely or on a wedge. They work with a sharp knife, without squeezing the tissues. Cut branches are immediately placed in a container with a small layer of water at the bottom.

Some vine growers remove the lower bud, but this technique is not particularly necessary.

Waxing (preferred but not required)

The upper sections (height above the kidney 2–4 cm) do not renew. They are dipped in liquid paraffin (or wax) melted in a water bath and cooled.

Furrowing

Furrowing provokes the development of roots.

Roots are best formed in places of callus influx on wound surfaces.

This phenomenon can be provoked. In the lower part of the shank, several longitudinal grooves are scratched with a knife, deepening to the cambium or wood.

The length of the wounds is approximately 3-6 cm.

Stimulant treatment

Soaking cuttings in a rooting stimulant solution.

The lower part of the cuttings (the lower node and part of the lower internode) is dusted with Kornevin or soaked in one of the liquid root formation stimulants (solution Heteroauxin, Zircon, Potassium humate, HB-101 etc. - according to the instructions).

Rooting stimulator is sold in every gardening store.

The cutting is now ready for rooting. You can do without preliminary work, but they are all aimed at maximum success.

What is grape kilching

Kilchevanie is the creation of a temperature difference in the upper and lower parts of the cutting: warm from below and cool from above. When kilchevaniya chances of rooting increase.

An important problem in the germination of grapes is the awakening of the buds before the growth of the roots. Often, the stalk throws out greens, is depleted and dies before it has time to take root. Helps to overcome this problem kilchevanie. In practice, at home, it is carried out in different ways.

• Heating from below (from +20 to + 28 degrees) produced by placing containers with cuttings on a battery or in a specially designed kilchevatele with bottom heating. The temperature in the zone of the upper kidneys should be much lower - ideally +5 +10 degrees (in reality, at least not higher than +18). To create such contrasting conditions, the kilchevator is placed in a cool room. If they do without a kilchevator, keeping the containers on the battery, then they often open the window, and also construct a protective curtain-screen between the cool window and the warm air of the room.
• Very effective kilchevanie "upside down" when the seedlings are installed vertically “upside down”, moistened material is placed on top, covered with a heated lid. In the case of such a disturbed orientation, the kidneys do not wake up for a long time; roots form faster.

Pre-germination of cuttings

Before planting in a container with soil cuttings sometimes first germinate - until the appearance of callus and small roots (from 2 to 10 mm). The process lasts approximately 3 weeks, in a lit place (without direct sunlight). Germination can be combined with kilchevanie or carried out independently. There are various options.

The substrate, the fabric is regularly moistened, the appearance of roots is monitored. They must not be allowed to grow. A length of 2 mm is enough for transplanting into pots with earth. They are installed on a bright, warm window sill.

The cuttings have given roots and are ready for planting in containers with soil.

Tanks and soil

Plastic cups, cut plastic bottles, nurseries are suitable for growing grape seedlings with a closed root system.

The volume of the pot is from 0.5 to 1 liter (a little more can be). Drainage holes are a must.

The soil mixture is selected light: soddy land, compost, sand in equal proportions. It is possible to add peat, but not acidic.

Method of planting cuttings without preliminary germination

Scheme of germination of cuttings in a plastic bottle.

1. Wet soil is poured into a bottle cut at a height of 20 cm (with drainage holes at the bottom).
2. In the center, a hole is made to the very bottom with a diameter of 2 cm, a little sand is poured into it, then a cutting is installed, and the remaining space of the hole is filled with sand. It turns out that the grapes are isolated from the soil with a thin layer of sand - this will prevent it from rotting.
3. From above, the container is covered with a “lid” from the cut off top of the bottle, creating greenhouse conditions and high humidity.
4. The structure is installed on a pallet, which is fixed on the battery near the window. A curtain made of plastic film will help isolate the cool window sill from the room, frequent ventilation will lower the temperature on the window.
5. When the overgrown roots become visible through the cups, the seedlings are rearranged on the windowsill, the cooling is stopped.
6. The growing green shoots gradually harden, periodically removing the caps for ventilation. Then the upper part ("greenhouse") is generally removed.

The cutting is 45 days old, the kidney burst - rooting was successful. Now we grow a seedling before planting on the street.

Landing in the ground

The grown seedlings are hardened on the balcony, window of the garden house or at a temperature not lower than +10 degrees , preventing freezing (negative temperatures). They are transplanted into the soil in May or June (according to the weather), covering with agrofiber from the scorching sun and temperature changes ( for 2-3 weeks ).

To harvest a good harvest of delicious ripe grapes, you must follow all the rules for preparing and planting seedlings. How to plant grapes cuttings? How to properly root cuttings of grapes? How to care for a planted plant afterwards? You will find answers to these questions in our article.

How and when to harvest cuttings

Harvesting grape cuttings is an important step that must necessarily precede the subsequent planting of grapes in the ground. Seedlings are harvested from autumn. It is better to form them from shoots with a diameter of 7 to 10 mm. Pay attention to their color: it should be uniform, without signs of rot.

Branches are harvested, leaving 4 buds on each. This amount is sufficient for normal germination in spring. Cut branches at an angle. Be sure to make several vertical cuts at the base of each cut branch. This is required to ensure a better metabolism.

When propagating by cuttings, sorting is of great importance. Form several bundles. Each must be of the same kind. If there are different varieties in the same bundle, they will draw from each other the substances necessary for growth.

Branches of grapes in the fall before wintering must be properly processed so that they are preserved. For this, processing with copper sulphate is done. Use a 5% solution. Harvesting grape cuttings in the fall, if done correctly, will allow you to get a healthy and, most importantly, fruit-bearing plant in the future.

Grape cuttings for germination need to provide optimal conditions. There are several methods for properly storing cuttings in winter. The most popular is to pack the prepared bundles into bags. Use regular polyethylene bags. Pour sawdust soaked in water inside each. It is not necessary to tie the package tightly. Place each package in the cellar.

Another method begins with cutting grapes, as described above. On an elevated site in a sunlit area, trenches are dug. It is important to choose a sheltered location, such as near a barn or other outbuilding. The trench should be quite deep (about 50 cm). Lay wet sand on the bottom, place bunches tightly on top and cover again with a layer of sand (10 cm). Cover everything with earth.

There is a simple and effective way that is suitable for storing a small number of branches. Wrap them in cloth and place them in bags. Make a small hole in each. Place in refrigerator. Remove the bags periodically and dampen the cloth.

Regardless of the method chosen, cuttings can be taken out as early as the end of February. The vine must be wiped to remove the mold. Suitable are those branches that have not overdried and not exfoliating bark.

Germination of grape cuttings at home is a long process, but such germinated planting material does not require many different actions, as when growing from a seed, preparing for seedlings. It is important to ensure proper storage of grape cuttings in winter so that the bush grows quickly and bears fruit well.

When to plant in the ground

When to plant cuttings? Answer: in the spring. You can do this from the moment when the temperature is stable above 0 ° C.

In what phase of the moon to land? The further growth of the vine largely depends on the position of the Moon. Astrologers advise doing this on the 3rd, 12th, 17th and 24th lunar days. For good growth and development of the root system, choose the waning phase of the moon, but only if the night star is in favorable signs of the zodiac.

The optimal time is considered to be the Moon in the sign of Cancer, Taurus, Scorpio. You can also land when the Moon is in Pisces and Capricorn.

Preparing the site and cuttings

Grape seedlings before planting need additional preparation and processing. The process itself consists of several steps, each of which must be completed:

1. With a needle or nail, make a few scratches at the bottom of the branch.
2. For a day, place the cuttings in water.
3. Use a root stimulator by pouring it into a container and placing the bottom of the branch there. Leave for another day.
4. Place the seedlings in a container with plain water so that they are only 3-4 cm in the water. Place the container in a sunny place.

After 10 days, you will see that the kidneys are swollen. Soon a young shoot should appear, and after 20 days the branches start up the first roots.

Planting grapes in the spring with cuttings also requires proper site preparation on the site. First you need to dig a hole 1x1 m. Fill the bottom layer with a bucket of sand, top with 1-2 buckets of humus, then 4 more buckets of earth. The hole must be filled to the top. Add about 200 g of single superphosphate and the same amount of potassium salt. Pour in plenty of water.

Planting grapes in autumn with cuttings is also possible. In this case, the pit should be prepared in the middle of summer, and the sprouted harvested grape cuttings should be planted for planting before the onset of frost. Spring time is considered more suitable for most varieties.

Planting and rooting methods

Grape cuttings for planting must be rooted. The easiest method by which grape cuttings are rooted is to use plastic cups. Before rooting, viticulture masters advise to soak the branches in a honey solution for 24 hours. It is prepared simply: for 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. l. natural quality honey.

Only the lower part should be placed in a container with a solution. A day later, the branches are planted in glasses. They must first be filled with a mixture of humus, peat, earth and sand. For rooting grapes, you can prepare containers yourself. Some prefer to make them from ordinary plastic bottles. It is enough just to cut off the top and fill the bottle with the specified mixture.

How to plant grape cuttings in spring? There are two methods: vertical and oblique. More often, a vertical technique is used for planting a cutting of grapes, since it allows you to increase fruiting. It is not worth planting too close to each other, otherwise it will complicate the subsequent care after planting from the cutting.

Aftercare

It is not enough to know how to plant correctly, when and how to prepare, and how to germinate a vine. It is also required to learn in advance about the basic rules for further care. Everyone can be convinced from their own experience that the vine grows normally only if all the basic rules are observed.

When planting material is already planted in the ground, abundant watering is required. Pour water under the root, trying not to touch the trunk. Do not water 14 days before flowering. How to grow seedlings quickly? To stimulate growth, it is enough to follow all the above rules for preparing cuttings.

It is also important to properly tie up the grown sprouted shoots. Pinching will speed up the formation of a full-fledged bush. Two days before flowering, the top must be removed.

If you have properly prepared the fertilizer mixture, they will provide normal growth for three years. Growing grapes from cuttings at home subsequently requires fertilization. Feed the plant with organic matter and minerals. Use superphosphates, potassium salt, bird droppings. Growing a plant, you can add compost and manure to the soil.

When breeding with cuttings at home, remember that the plant needs to be covered for the winter. He also needs periodic pruning, pest control.

Now you know how to properly grow grapes from cuttings and provide the plant with proper care.

Video "A proven way to plant grapes"

From this video you will learn how to plant grapes.

Foreword

Propagation of grapes by cuttings is the most affordable way to independently increase the number of grape bushes on the site. Having spent once on purchasing the variety you like, in a few years you can organize a whole vineyard, but for this you need to know how to plant grape cuttings in the spring.

Required Tools

Sand Knife

If you only need a few bushes of the selected variety, you may well get by with one of the oldest ways to propagate grapes - layering. The essence of the method is to dig in the vines with soil, which allows them to take root and form a new bush. However, you can’t grow a lot in this way, but chibouks allow you to grow a whole vineyard from just one bush, retaining all the properties of the mother bush. What can I say if this method is used for industrial purposes.

You need to take care of planting material in the fall, at. You need to pay attention to shoots that have fruited in the summer and have reached a diameter of at least 7 mm. Each stalk must be cut in such a way that at least 4 buds remain on it. Stepping back from the upper eye a few centimeters, you should make a cut at an angle with an inclination from the kidney. Under the lower eye, cut in a straight line.

It is recommended to stimulate the formation of roots with a knife or a needle to make three vertical strips no more than three centimeters long, trying not to hook the bast. Some growers fold the prepared planting material near the bush and sprinkle it with soil until spring, while some first moisten it with water, pickle it with a solution and, after drying in a plastic bag, send it to the refrigerator or basement for “wintering”. Over the winter, it does not hurt to inspect them several times and turn them over to the other side.

In early February, the cuttings are taken out of the shelter and checked. Branches that ooze moisture should be immediately discarded - this means that they are rotten. The rest of the cuttings are checked with a pruner - squeeze the cross section between the blades, if a few drops of water come out of it, this means that the cutting has successfully survived the winter.

When cross-sectioned, the core of the cutting should be light green, without any inclusions of black.

The future grape bushes selected in this way should be soaked in warm water for two days, renewing the water every day, and for another day in a growth or root formation stimulator.

After that, there are two options for the development of events - either you immediately plant the cuttings, or germinate them, forming a plant that is completely ready for planting.

Planting chibouks of grapes in the spring under a crowbar or a shovel does not require any germination efforts. After you have soaked the cuttings, make a hole up to 60 cm deep at the landing site with a crowbar or stake. The hole must be expanded to a diameter of 10 cm so that the stalk can fit freely in it. We insert it into the hole with the upper eye towards the row and fill the hole with earth. It is important that the top eye is no deeper than 5 cm below the soil surface. We tamp the earth and water it.

If the land was prepared in advance, it is possible to plant chibouks under a shovel. To do this, dig a hole about half a meter deep, into which we set the cutting obliquely or directly. We drop it to half and pour 1-2 buckets of heated water into the hole, after it has been absorbed, we fill the hole completely, so that the upper eye is just below the soil level. It is important in the future to water not the cuttings themselves, but the soil around them no closer than 20 cm.

Sprouting in glasses or bottles requires more effort, but the results will be better. To do this, you will need a large plastic glass or a bottle cut in half. We make several holes in the bottom, fill the bottom with earth, then put inside a small glass without a bottom, into which we fill the washed river sand. The gap between the walls of the glasses should be covered with earth and rammed.

In the center of the sand zone, make a small depression into which the cutting should be inserted and watered abundantly. You need to water often, every day and only with warm water. Gradually, the chubuk will have roots, and the eyes will release leaves. When there are at least four leaves, the seedling is ready for planting. Before planting grape cuttings in the spring in the soil, it should be dug up in advance and fertilized with rotted manure and foliage.