How to insulate a bath from a log house from the outside. How to properly insulate the bath from the outside with your own hands

September 3, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Warming the bath outside with your own hands (as well as high-quality thermal insulation inside) is a prerequisite for maintaining a high temperature in the steam room and ensuring a comfortable microclimate in other rooms. Even walls made of energy-efficient materials (porous concrete, hollow ceramic bricks, glued beams) need to be insulated. And the structures erected according to traditional technology, this applies in the first place.

In this article I will give the algorithms that I myself use when performing external and internal thermal insulation of baths and saunas.

Thermal insulation of load-bearing structures

Exterior wall cladding with polymer panels

When starting thermal insulation work in the bath, many focus only on internal thermal insulation. This approach is fundamentally wrong, because by doing high-quality insulation with our own hands on the outside, we will provide additional protection against loss of thermal energy.

This means that in order to get the heat we need in the steam room and comfortable coolness in the dressing room, it will be possible to spend less energy (it doesn’t matter - firewood, gas or electricity). So the cost of insulation from the outside will pay off, and in the case of a bathhouse even faster than with a living space.

Thermal insulation of walls can be carried out according to two schemes. There is no universal option, but I prefer to finish buildings made of brick or concrete blocks with polystyrene or polystyrene followed by plaster, and to carry out the insulation of a wooden bath using the “ventilated facade” technology.

First, let's figure out how a brick bath needs to be prepared for finishing:

1. I clean the walls, checking the seams between the blocks and, if necessary, repairing them.
2. The outer surface is primed, protecting the brick from efflorescence, fungus, and improving adhesion with the adhesive composition. If we neglect the primer, then we will not have time to blink an eye, as from a brick under a layer of insulation with high vapor barrier characteristics (and polymer plates do not allow air to pass through very well), salt will appear, destroying the bearing surfaces.
3. I install a U-shaped base profile along the lower edge of the wall: it will prevent the insulation from sliding down under its own weight.

1. Panels of heat-insulating material - polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or dense mineral wool - are glued to the walls in a checkerboard pattern, using an adhesive mixture based on high-quality cement with waterproofing additives.

You need to choose a heater for a bath according to its resistance to heat transfer: this indicator depends on the type of material and on its thickness. If internal thermal insulation is planned, then 100 mm of polystyrene foam or 50 mm of extruded polystyrene is sufficient from the outside.

1. Next, I take a puncher with a long drill and drill through the insulation so that the drill goes deep into the wall by 40-50 mm. I fix the foam plastic with dowel-umbrellas, reinforcing the adhesive fasteners.

1. I perform plastering of the insulation, reinforcing the structure with an alkali-resistant polystyrene mesh.
2. I grout the plaster and paint the walls on the outside with weather-resistant paint.

Frame facade

If the bath is made of timber or logs, or erected using frame technology, then I prefer to equip the so-called ventilated facade. The obvious pole of this design is vapor permeability (it largely solves the problem of excess humidity in the room), so when deciding which insulation to choose for a frame bath, you should focus on mineral fiber-based plates.

The algorithm of work will differ significantly from the option described above:

1. To begin with, we need to put the walls themselves in order - clean, caulk the seams, treat all surfaces with antiseptic impregnations.

If there are signs of wood damage, then these areas must be sanitized, and with a strong manifestation of defects, the logs or beams must be replaced. All the same, it is pointless to insulate a rotten bath, since under a layer of heat-insulating material the process of wood destruction will go many times faster.

1. Then we install brackets on the walls, placing roofing material under their base or injure them.

1. We fasten the crate panels to the brackets. We make them either from a timber impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a galvanized steel profile. Despite the fact that the beam is more prone to deformation, I prefer to carry out the insulation of the bath exactly on the wooden crate: after all, the metal conducts heat better and therefore it can become a “cold bridge” .

1. Next, we lay the heat-insulating material in the cells of the crate. Deciding which one is better for a frame bath, I settled on mineral wool of medium density (up to 45 kg / m3). But I know of cases when the place of basalt fiber slabs on the walls outside (as well as in the internal cavities of the frame) was sprayed with ecowool - five years have passed since the repair, and there are no complaints about the quality of insulation.

Mineral wool perfectly keeps in the cells due to its elasticity, but when compressed, it somewhat loses its heat-saving properties. To avoid this, it is worth making the frame in strict accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool boards (standard - 600 mm), and in order to prevent the insulation from falling out, additionally fix it with several dish-shaped dowels.

1. Insulation for a frame, timber or log bath must be covered with a windproof superdiffusion membrane. This material must be vapor-permeable, otherwise moisture will accumulate under the skin and moisten the heat-insulating layer.
2. Further, it all depends on what dimensions our crate has. If we did it with a margin and there is a gap of at least 20 mm between the insulation layer and the edge of the frame, then we immediately proceed to the sheathing. If there is no reserve, then we press the heat-insulating panels with the bars of the counter-lattice (I use parts with a section of 40x40): a block house, a false beam or other decorative material will be attached to them.

Roof insulation

The non-insulated bath roof is a source of about 20-30% of heat loss. Of course, we can block some of them by performing thermal insulation of the floor, but it is also desirable to finish the roof slopes with materials with low thermal conductivity.

We act like this:

1. If there is no waterproofing layer under the roofing material (according to the mind, it must be there, but you never know!) - we lay a moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, passing it over the rafters. To do this, it is almost always necessary to dismantle at least part of the roofing material, therefore the waterproofing procedure should be performed even at the stage of construction of the structure.

1. The rafters themselves and the elements of the roofing sheathing are treated with an antiseptic (again, this must be done earlier).
2. In the gaps between the rafters on the inside, we lay the heat-insulating material. The best choice for do-it-yourself roof thermal insulation is basalt fiber in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 75 mm.
3. From the inside, we block the insulation with a vapor barrier film, which we fix directly on the rafters. To further secure the entire structure, we either stuff the transverse bars of the counter-lattice onto the rafters, or we perform the lining of the roof with clapboard - in the second case, we will get a fairly neat looking attic.

Interior decoration

We warm the floor

The answer to the question of how to insulate a bath correctly from the inside is no less complicated. This set of procedures usually begins with work on the floor covering:

1. We cover the concrete base with roofing material, on which we install support bars for the log.

If the floor in the bath is done on the ground, then the soil must be compacted and covered with a layer of sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 15 to 40 cm. The bedding is carefully rammed, and for greater stability it can be concreted.

1. We lay logs on the support bars, the ends of which we fix on the walls of the room.
2. We cover the space between the lags with a layer of expanded clay. The thicker this layer is, the less heat loss through the lower layer of air in the room will be.
3. We block expanded clay with a waterproofing film. In principle, it is possible to equip a rough flooring over the expanded clay layer - but this is not necessary.
4. Between the lags we lay panels of heat-insulating material. If we are finishing a dressing room or a rest room, then you can take polystyrene foam or even get by with foam plastic, but only mineral wool is suitable for a steam room - it is important that the material is immune to high temperatures.

1. We lay a waterproofing vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation. The quality of hydro and vapor barrier is very important: by providing it, we minimize the risk of contact of the insulation with water.
2. Next, we lay a rough floor, and then we equip the floor covering from a massive board or ceramic tile. The board is “warmer” and more pleasant to the touch, but the tile is easier to clean and less prone to swelling when wet, so the choice is yours!

Finishing the walls

Sheathing the steam room, rest room and dressing room with our own hands, we must take care not only of their insulation, but also of protecting the thermal insulation from moisture and high temperatures. From this point of view, the steam room is the most difficult room, so I will talk about the technology using its example:

1. I prime the walls with a moisture-proof antiseptic composition.
2. I mount the crate bars on the walls in such a way that the distance from the edge of the bar to the wall is approximately equal to or slightly more than the thickness of the heat-insulating material.

When choosing which is better to take a heater for a steam room, you need to remember that we need a non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity. Polymer plates are not suitable here, and I would not risk it with ecowool, so there is no alternative to mineral fiber up to 100 - 150 mm thick (less can be in the dressing room).

1. I lay the plates or rolls of insulation in the cells of the crate, making sure that the fibers experience a minimum compressive load.
2. From above I cover the thermal insulation with a vapor barrier material. For most rooms, an ordinary membrane is also suitable, but in a steam room a foil film or polyethylene foam with a metallized coating will be appropriate. Yes, the price of such products is quite high, but in addition to protecting mineral wool from moisture, they also act as a thermal mirror, reflecting heat into the steam room and providing solid energy savings.

1. Separately, I insulate the slopes: both windows and windows need to be made as airtight as possible, which will reduce the risk of drafts (in the bath, and on a steamed body - an almost guaranteed cold), as well as reduce heat loss.
2. Next, I equip the counter-lattice: stuffing thin slats onto the frame, which will ensure the formation of an air gap between the skin and the insulation.

1. I install decorative panels on the counter-lattice. For a steam room, cladding made of alder, poplar or other hardwood is usually practiced, but for rooms where the air does not warm up to such a high temperature, you can also take quite cheap pine.
2. I also impregnate the decorative sheathing with a moisture-proof compound to prevent it from rotting and reduce the deformation of wet wood during temperature changes.

Minimizing losses through the ceiling

And log, and frame, and brick baths also need thermal insulation of the ceiling. But if inside the ceiling is insulated approximately according to the same technology as the walls, then outside, i.e. from the side of the attic, you can use another technique:

1. We lay two layers of fiberglass on top of the draft ceiling - it will act as a barrier to liquid.
2. We prepare a heat-insulating solution: in a 1: 1 ratio, mix clay with sawdust or chopped straw, then fill the material with water and mix until a thick dough is obtained.

1. We pour the solution between the ceiling beams, making sure that the liquid does not seep through the fiberglass into the lower rooms.
2. We dry the clay (this is not a quick matter, it can take several weeks), and then we lay a layer of dense insulation.
3. We close the heat-insulating material with a moisture-proof membrane, after which we fill in the cement fixing screed.

Thanks to this technology, we form a multilayer cake with our own hands, which practically does not let heat through.

Conclusion

Bath insulation is a whole range of works that (of course, if implemented correctly) will minimize all heat losses, reduce the cost of heating a steam room, and most importantly, ensure a steady heat, for which we, in fact, go to the bath!

The video in this article will help you understand the nuances of the technology, and with complex questions, you can always contact me or my colleagues in the comments below.

In order for the temperature to be maintained in the bath for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it as low as possible, baths need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which prolongs the life of the building.

The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for the construction. For baths made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this is usually a thorough sealing of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness holds heat well on its own. Sometimes they insulate the steam room and the washing room from the inside.

If timber is used during construction, it is most likely necessary to insulate, but how it depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). It is imperative to insulate baths built of bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to ensure the required temperature regime, the wall thickness must be at least 80 cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. Therefore, such baths are always insulated.

Almost all the insulation of a log bath comes down to careful sealing of cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but the wood dries out over time, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be regularly caulked.

A finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then varnished or other protective compounds. If metal guides are chosen, they are mounted on special suspensions.

Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and inside it is additionally insulated only sometimes a steam room and a washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or hydro barrier is laid on top of it. It is fixed with the help of planks, on which the finish is subsequently attached.

Insulation of a bath from a bar outside

Warming a bath from a bar from the outside is absolutely no different from warming a bath from a log. The building must also settle down, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.

The need for insulation from the outside depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climatic zone, insulation will be carried out according to the following scheme:

• a crate made of timber or metal guides (be sure to set them both in a horizontal and vertical plane);
• heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
• moisture and wind protection;
• counter crate (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and finishing materials);
• Decoration Materials.

They usually sheathe a bath from a bar outside: clapboard of any type, edged board, siding, metal profile, block house, etc. After completion of the work, the wooden finishes are varnished for outdoor use, sometimes they are pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

If siding is used as a finish, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finish is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as a crate, which can be bought at the same place as siding. The guides are mounted on special suspensions.

Insulation of a brick bath from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bath from the outside - this material has a high thermal conductivity, so it will be extremely difficult to warm up the room to the required conditions without external insulation. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

For external insulation, it is usually advised to use mineral wool. they, according to recent studies, are not suitable - they emit formaldehyde, and for external insulation - one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bath from the outside with polystyrene foam plates, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foamed glass (its disadvantage is its high price). For high-quality work, it is advised to lay two layers apart (with an offset of half the length) to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. But this method takes more time, and materials for insulation take twice as much. Therefore, most often the insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are glued with reinforced tape.

For sheathing a brick bath outside, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior decoration: you can finish the bath outside with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene plates, foam glass or foam plastic were used as a heater. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

You can insulate a brick bath according to the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.

For reliability, they can be strengthened with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold firmly enough (therefore, the mounting step of the guides is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held due to the force of elasticity). The joints of the plates are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, laid on top of the waterproofing film, and fixed with planks. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for mounting the exterior finish. According to this scheme, it is also possible to insulate baths from foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Finishing the outside of the block bath

To baths from blocks, you can apply any of the insulation schemes described above. In addition, there is another option: to overlay such a bath with decorative bricks, but such an option for finishing and warming is possible if a positive temperature is maintained in the bath all the time.

If you decide to overlay a bath of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not close, but stepping back 5-10 centimeters. In this case, the thermal insulation characteristics of the building will improve significantly. The gap can be left empty, or it can be filled with heat-insulating material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special processing, etc.

In order to prevent moisture from accumulating in the inter-wall space, small ventilation gaps are left in the outer wall, and for reliable fixation of the finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the carrier.

Recently, such a finishing material as a block house, which emits a log wall, has become more and more popular. The block house is made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. sheathed in a block house, it looks like it was made of wood.

Block bath lined with a block house

findings

A log bath, built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not need additional wall insulation, either outside or inside.

When choosing an external insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without compromising health, you can use mineral wool made using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are also suitable.

If you have financial opportunities, the bath can be sheathed with a metal block house, which will last for many years.

It was like that four hundred years ago, when European ambassadors reported to their sovereigns that the Russians are the cleanest people in Europe: they bathe in a bath every week. She remains that way to this day.

And this can be confirmed by the fact that, both in former times and now, future homeowners, starting to build their house, began it with the construction of a bathhouse on the site. After all, how is a bathhouse different from a residential building? The same walls and roof, the same wood-burning stove, the same benches for sitting and shelves for lying - everything is the same, only in a reduced size. And you can live in a bathhouse while the main house is being built, and warm the water and cook food if necessary.

Do I need to insulate the bath?

The traditional material for the construction of baths in Russia has always been wood. However, not only baths: as early as the beginning of the 20th century. wooden buildings made up the vast majority in the total volume of urban development, and in rural areas - except that only temples were built of stone. But even today, despite the huge number of modern building materials on the market, wood has not lost popularity due to its unique qualities and, first of all, its unsurpassedly low thermal conductivity among natural building materials.

Nevertheless, the insulation of wooden buildings is not a waste of money. It allows you to significantly reduce both heating costs and operating costs for future repairs and reconstruction, and as a result of these savings, you can repeatedly justify the additional costs of building materials.

That is why zealous owners have always been attentive to the issues of warming their, even wooden, buildings, and for buildings made of concrete, brick and block materials this is a mandatory requirement.

However, bath insulation has its own specifics and differences from the thermal protection of residential buildings, due to unstable, episodic, operation and special temperature conditions. Usually the bath rooms are used once a week, heating them up to extremely high temperatures - 80~120°C and above. The rest of the time, its walls freeze through in winter to very low temperatures - -30 ° C and below. Not every building material can withstand such thermal overloads for a long time.

Therefore, bath rooms need be sure to provide internal thermal insulation, which:

• protect wall materials from high temperatures;
• for a long time will keep the temperature regime inside the bath due to the reduction of heat loss;
• will allow you to quickly heat the bathhouse avoiding unnecessary fuel consumption for heating the frozen walls.

Additionally reduce heat loss and protect the walls already from the effects of low temperatures external insulation will help. It:

• shift the boundary of the temperature zero from the internal volume of the walls outward - into the insulation layer, significantly softening the temperature regime for their material;
• prevent dampening of the walls by removing the dew point from their surface;
• this will eliminate the causes for decay and the appearance of fungus.

Thus, the obligatory internal thermal insulation of the bath rooms is not at all superfluous, but it is even very useful to combine them with their external thermal protection.

How to insulate a bath from the outside

In the modern construction market today is represented the widest choice of various heat-insulating materials, among which:

1. Inorganic:

• Mineral wool- the general name for a number of heaters: stone, basalt, slag and glass wool. Thanks to many advantages, one of which is absolute incombustibility, it holds the lead among the most popular heat insulators.
• Warm plaster combined the traditional method of decorative finishing with the use of a filler with heat-insulating properties in the cement mortar, which is usually used as vermiculite and perlite or modern foamed polymers.
• Foam glass, produced by sintering molten and foamed glass recyclables, has unique characteristics: complete water resistance, biochemical stability, absolute incombustibility, environmental friendliness.

organic:

• Arbolit, fibrolit and other types concrete blocks and slabs with fillers of plant origin, which can be used as both structural building material and insulation.
• Tow, jute and some other types vegetable fiber materials are usually used for caulking and interventional insulation of wooden buildings.
• Foamed polymers, among which the most famous are foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, which are the best heat insulators of artificial origin today. These also include penoizol, penofol and many others.
• Cellulose insulation, which is essentially cotton wool recycled from recycled paper and cardboard, has very good heat-shielding properties.

The variety of materials presented, taking into account all their varieties and modifications, causes confusion at first, but upon closer examination it turns out that there is everything three main technologies for performing external thermal insulation buildings:

1. "Well" insulation used for inter-wall thermal insulation of brick and frame-panel buildings. It can include, for example, well insulation of brickwork or the method of construction from heat blocks that has become popular - special “sandwiches” consisting of two bearing surfaces fastened with jumpers with a gasket from a heat insulator between them, as well as pouring penoizol and filling expanded clay or cellulose wool into the interwall space or in the gap between the wall and the sheathing.
2. "Wet" facade called a method of thermal protection that uses sheets of heat-insulating material glued or attached to the surface of the walls, which, after fitting with a reinforcing mesh, are plastered or pasted over with facing facade materials. This method is mainly used for walls made of mineral materials: concrete, brick, various blocks, but is often used for wooden walls.
3. Called "Ventilated" facade insulation method is one of the most popular. Suffice it to say that traditional clapboard wall cladding is one of its examples. It has recently been joined by block house cladding, decorative facade panels, and various types of siding.

For external insulation of the bath any of these methods will work. The differences will be determined only by the source material of the walls, on which the method used will depend. If we consider only those methods and materials that can be done with minimal cost with your own hands, then the circle narrows even more.

For example, work on insulation with sprayed insulation: cellulose or polyurethane foam requires special expensive equipment and skills to manage it, and therefore are not suitable for independent implementation. Some materials, such as foam glass or cork insulation, are quite expensive, especially for auxiliary buildings.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the bath with polystyrene foam

How to insulate a bath from the outside? Wet and ventilated facade technologies at the initial stage of work are very similar to each other, differing only in the finishing coating used. Consider step by step how you can do the insulation of the walls of the bath from the outside with your own hands:

1. Despite the coating with an external heat insulator, the interventional cracks in the walls must be well caulked. If this has not been done, now is the time to do it.
2. It is advisable to treat the walls with antipyrine and antiseptic.
3. To reduce vaporization between the walls and the insulation layer, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap. For this purpose, a vertical crate of 30 ~ 50 mm thick bars is stuffed onto the walls.
4. Sheets of insulation are mounted horizontally on it with the help of special dowels - "umbrellas" with the location of the vertical seams of each row in a checkerboard pattern.
5. For ideal thermal protection, the first layer of insulation should be covered with the second, placing the foam sheets already vertically. They can be fixed with a special glue for polystyrene foam.
6. Such a facade can then be covered with a plastic reinforcing mesh and plastered. If at the same time you use "warm" plaster, this will additionally strengthen the thermal insulation.

As you can see, doing a very effective thermal insulation of the bath with your own hands is not so difficult. This method can be used for other buildings on the site: a garage, a corral for pets, a greenhouse or greenhouse, and other auxiliary buildings, both wooden and stone. It is also suitable for warming a residential building, at least its foundation.

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside. Reliable thermal insulation with vapor barrier reduces heat loss, protects walls from the harmful effects of dampness. For each type of wall material, a suitable insulation is selected.

How to insulate the bath from the outside

To insulate the bath from the outside, two technologies are used: “wet facade” and “ventilated facade”. In the first case, foam, polystyrene foam or basalt wool slabs act as thermal insulation. First, they are glued to the wall with foam, additionally fixed with plastic dowels with umbrellas, and decorative plaster is applied on top. In the second case, a crate is attached to the wall of the bath. The cells are filled with mineral wool or basalt slabs, covered with a windproof film, a counter-lattice is stuffed, on which the facing material is attached. A gap remains between the film and the cladding, forming a ventilated space.

Ventilated facade method

If the bath is built using frame technology or the walls are made of timber, logs, the outside can only be insulated by arranging a ventilated facade. For thermal insulation, it is better to use basalt slabs. Rolled mineral wool eventually sags, slides, does not hold well between the elements of the crate.

Warming outside begins with the preparation of the walls. First, cracks are caulked, gaps between the crowns. Wood is treated with protective impregnation. Rotten areas must be replaced. A vapor barrier is attached to the prepared wooden wall of the bath.

Advice! It is better to use a special membrane as a vapor barrier for the wooden walls of the bath.

According to the vapor barrier material, a marking is drawn for the location of the elements of the crate. Brackets in the form of U-shaped perforated plates are attached to the walls along the marked lines. Pieces of roofing material are placed under each element. The crate is assembled from a galvanized profile or wooden bars. Elements are fixed with self-tapping screws to perforated brackets.

When the crate is ready, they begin to insulate the walls of the bath. Basalt wool is laid between the vertical elements. Plates should fit snugly without gaps. From above, the insulation is closed with a windshield. The film is fixed with a stapler to the elements of the crate.

In order to form a ventilated space under the cladding, battens are nailed to the vertical elements of the crate over the wind protection, forming a counter-lattice. The cladding is fixed from any vending panels. For insulation outside the bath, most often they choose the Block House, which imitates a log house.

Advice! The “ventilated facade” technology, if desired, can be used for a bath from bricks, blocks and other materials.

Insulation of different types of walls

The owners sometimes insulate the bath from the outside at their discretion. The procedure is not cheap. If the cost of heat loss exceeds the cost of cladding materials, the work will have to be done.

How to insulate a wooden bath from the outside

Walls made of timber or logs are thick. It makes no sense to insulate them from the outside. Wood itself is a heater, plus the internal thermal insulation of the bath. Walls made of timber or logs are insulated by sealing cracks. Flax caulk the gaps between the crowns, eliminate the gaps near the frames of windows and doors.

If a wooden bath is made of boards or the walls are made of thin timber, logs, a ventilated facade is equipped outside. Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene cannot be used even in this technology. Plates do not pass moisture. For this reason, they do not combine well with wood. From the vapors accumulated under the insulation, the wooden walls will begin to rot. It is better to lay basalt wool in a ventilated facade.

Advice! If the log house is warm, but ugly, the outside of the bath can be lined with a ventilated facade without thermal insulation. Under the panels, only steam, waterproofing and crate are attached.

Warming of the frame bath

A feature of frame buildings is the presence of insulation inside the walls. Additional costs for insulation outside are not needed. For beauty, you can mount a ventilation facade without thermal insulation. Only if the insulation inside the frame has become unusable, then a full-fledged ventilated facade with basalt slabs is attached outside.

Insulation of a brick bath

For a bath made of brick, cinder block, foam block and other similar materials, it is desirable to make insulation from the outside. Wet facade technology is preferred here. Such insulation is cheaper. Budget thermal insulation is foam. Styrofoam or basalt slabs will cost a little more. Thermal insulation from above is covered with decorative plaster, painted with facade paint.

When the budget allows, the walls are insulated from the outside using the “ventilated facade” technology. If only basalt wool can be used for a wooden bath, then here foam or expanded polystyrene plates can be laid between the crate. It is important only to seal all joints and cracks with mounting foam in order to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

How to insulate the ceiling of the bath from the outside

Inside the bath, the ceiling is insulated similarly to the walls, and a ventilated space is equipped. Outside, from the attic side, another technology is applicable. When the rough ceiling of the boards is lined, it is covered with two layers of fiberglass. It is undesirable to use roofing material, since an unpleasant smell of bitumen will appear inside the steam room from heating.

Even rolled mineral wool can serve as thermal insulation, but in order to save money, natural materials are used for insulation. The space between the beams is covered with expanded clay. Suitable kneading clay with the addition of fine straw, shavings, sawdust.

When the clay fill hardens and dries, foam or expanded polystyrene plates are laid on top. The thermal insulation is covered with waterproofing, a thin concrete screed is poured. You can even walk on this floor. If the attic of the bath is reserved for a rest room, after warming the final layer is laid with a finishing floor.

Do I need to insulate the foundation of the bath from the outside

To make sure the importance of external insulation of the foundation, it is worth considering 5 reasons:

1. On a cold foundation in winter, a temperature difference forms in a heated bath. The resulting condensate destroys the concrete base.
2. The problem with condensation occurs even in summer. An uninsulated foundation is warmed by the sun from the outside, and from the inside it draws cold and moisture from the earth. The temperature difference is similar.
3. A foundation not insulated from the outside cools the steam room faster. The bath has to be heated more often.
4. Outside, thermal insulation in winter softens the impact on the foundation of heaving soil.
5. A thick layer of thermal insulation on the outside protects the foundation from destruction, accidental mechanical impacts.

The listed 5 reasons convince that the insulation of the foundation of the bath from the outside is necessary. It can be carried out simultaneously with thermal insulation from the inside. It is impossible to do only internal insulation of the base of the bath. From the temperature difference, the concrete will begin to collapse from the side of the street.

How to insulate the foundation of the bath from the outside with your own hands

There are different ways to insulate the base from the outside. All of them depend on the type of soil where the bath is built, as well as on the very design of the foundation.

The strip foundation is dug around with a trench 50 cm wide from the outside. The depth is maintained at least 80 cm. A 20 cm layer of sand is poured into the trench. The concrete tape is cleaned of dirt, treated with hot bitumen. After the waterproofing has hardened, the base is covered with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Plates 15 cm thick are glued with foam, additionally fixed with dowels with umbrellas. When using expanded polystyrene, the gap between the trench wall and the insulation is covered with sand. Styrofoam is covered with a brick wall. From above, the entire pie around the base is poured with a concrete blind area at an angle of 15 o.

A monolithic foundation is usually laid under a bathhouse in a swampy area. Insulate the base even at the stage of construction. Expanded polystyrene is embedded between the layers of concrete screed. On the walls outside the foundation of the bath, do-it-yourself insulation occurs according to the principle of a strip base.

The columnar foundation forms a gap between the ground and the lower crown of the bath. For insulation, it must be laid with a brick. First, a trench is dug around the perimeter of the bath. The parameters are the same as for the insulation of a concrete tape. The bottom of the trench is covered with a 25 cm layer of sand, poured with water. When the pillow is compacted, they begin to lay out the wall. Concrete can be poured to the ground level, and rows of bricks can be laid above. A gap is left between the last row and the crown of the bath, filled with mounting foam. The built basement is insulated from the outside using the strip foundation method.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the outside

Work on insulation from the outside can be divided into three stages: preparation, rough work, final cladding.

surface requirements

Regardless of the chosen method of insulation, the walls of the bath from the outside are subject to careful preparation. The surface is carefully inspected. Slots on wooden walls are caulked with jute or linen.

The gaps between the log crowns can be sealed with modern materials. The site is first primed. The gaps are pushed with a polyethylene foam cord, a sealant is applied on top.

The method of sealing depends on the packaging of the paste. Sealant from buckets is applied with a spatula, squeezed out of tubes with a gun. When using a special tape, the protective film is removed from its adhesive layer. The area is sealed with a strip. From above the tape is rolled with a roller. The restored wooden surface is treated with a protective impregnation.

The preparation of brick, block walls of the bath is based on the sealing of all cracks, potholes. Small gaps are filled with sealant. When using putty or cement, the groove is widened so that the mortar penetrates deeper into the crack.

Instruments

The set of tools depends on the selected material for the work. If a ventilated facade is chosen for installation, you will need a saw, drill, jigsaw, hammer, screwdriver. For the installation of a wet facade, spatulas, buckets, and a construction mixer are needed.

Mounting

Insulation from the outside using the “ventilated facade” method consists of the following steps:

• a crate is attached to the wall of the bath (the wooden structure is first sheathed with a vapor barrier);
• the cells are filled with insulation;
• the windproof film is shot with stapler shackles to the crate;
• a counter-lattice is attached from the rails.

The whole cake is covered with facing material.

Insulation from the outside according to the “wet facade” method consists of the following steps:

• slabs of polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or basalt wool are glued to the wall with an adhesive composition;
• square plates of thermal insulation at 5 points are fixed with dowels with umbrellas;
• the insulation is covered with a base layer of plaster, the fiberglass mesh is fixed.

The final finish is decorative plaster. The method of application depends on the selected composition.

Conclusion

Insulating a bath is not so difficult, if you clearly follow the instructions, follow the procedure. The initial costs are high, but they will pay off by saving the energy used to kindle the furnace.

External or internal insulation of the bath is a must. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the process of cooling the air in the premises. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We warm the bath with our own hands

Before the construction of the building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for warming a bath

Cheap solutions (impregnations, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, protection from moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to warm the bath rooms separately, using materials specially created for this. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a draft building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important, the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

• resistance to steam and high temperatures;
• good fire-fighting properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• low hygroscopicity;
• the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All heaters presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need to manually collect them. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be bought at hardware stores. As for moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. It is said that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties, most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper felling of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The laying procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Warming of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm or more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and cold air blows in just in them. It is best to insulate a frame made of round timber or an assembly of timber with jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers are trying to add flax fibers to it. But if there is already loose material available, you can perform classic caulking. So there will be less work, and the building will surely retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bath from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all the problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Insulation of buildings made of brick or foam blocks

If the log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then the masonry will have to work hard. Yes, and there are more financial investments for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. It is better to work, investing in materials, than to stock up on fuel all the time.

A common and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe them with siding or clapboard on top. In the gap between the layers, an air-filled space is formed, thanks to which condensation will not form on the walls and rotting and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for a ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, which prevents the formation of condensate

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: indoors, a steam room is made of wood. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small steam room naturally if you use a small frame.

Enough timber 10x10 and crates. The process of warming such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

You can make it even easier: do not use a beam, but instead immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, you will need an additional layer of waterproofing.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washing room and dressing room. And for this you will need:

1. Roll paper (on the ceiling and walls).
2. Beam-rail (5x5, for mounting insulation on the ceiling and walls).
3. Foil.
4. Insulating tape.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Aluminum adhesive tape.
7. Insulation, calculated on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwalls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

• screwdriver;
• level and plumb.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath

Any stages of insulation are always carried out according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and end with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should linger as long as possible.

The technology is like this:

1. We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with roll paper overlap.
2. We fix the bars on top of the paper, a heater will already lie between them.
3. Cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.

   The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary

4. We glue all the joints on the foil with aluminum tape. Usually foil for insulation comes with the material.
5. We fix the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for tightness. If there is not enough money for such a heater, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
6. Next, we mount the layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.

   On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints

7. We close the front part of the ceiling with a clapboard under a tree. This material is resistant to elevated temperatures and will not tar.

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath you can do without it. For example, if the bath is made of logs, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - you just need to lay it in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the bath wall insulation resembles a roofing pie

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a steam room

Floor insulation in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the lags. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of the concrete floor.

Video: features of the concrete floor device in the bath

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are treated with silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.