How to properly set the level on the ceiling. Various ways to mark the ceiling for drywall

Residents of many houses, both old and new, face one problem during repairs - uneven ceilings. As a rule, such a problem arises if concrete slabs are used for interfloor floors during construction.

Why Do Irregularities Occur?

With poor-quality laying of slabs, steps may occur at their joints, deep seams, violations of the horizontal plane (when the slabs do not lie horizontally, but with a slope to one side).

This is especially true in houses built according to Soviet standard designs. In modern multi-storey construction, floor slabs are used less frequently. As a rule, in modern multi-storey construction, floors are made of monolithic concrete. But even in this case, defects can occur in the form of seams, sagging at the joints of the formwork sheets, air “shells” on the ceiling surface, as well as horizontal slopes in cases where the formwork was not level. In old prefabricated houses, non-modern "hollow" slabs were used for flooring, but U-shaped ones, which formed bevels at the junctions with the wall.

Ways to level the ceiling

There are several ways in which you can level the ceiling:

• Alignment can be done with putty. This method is used if the defects are small - cracks at the seams, small irregularities in the concrete.
• For larger defects, such as steps at the joints of the plates, it is recommended to use plaster. With its help, it is possible to align fairly large planes. If you have the appropriate skills with plaster, it is possible to completely level all the ceilings in the apartment.
• Also, to give the ceilings evenness and aesthetic appearance, you can also use artificial materials - plasterboard sheets, glued ceilings made of PVC tiles, suspended ceilings (such as "Armstrong") or currently popular stretch ceilings made of a special fabric.

However, it is not recommended to install stretch ceilings yourself. Without the appropriate tools and knowledge of technology, this is unlikely to succeed. But leveling with drywall, suspended and adhesive ceilings is available to any owner who knows how to hold a hammer drill, screwdriver, spatula and other home repair tools.

Initially, using the level, it is necessary to make the appropriate measurements and mark all the irregularities, and only then proceed to work. Let's take a closer look at how to properly align the ceiling with the help of a particular material.

Leveling with putty and plaster

You can putty small cosmetic defects - "shells", seams, concrete roughness. On sale, it is of two types: ready-made and dry. Putty sold as a dry mix will need to be diluted with water in accordance with the instructions on the package.

Before applying putty, the ceiling should be prepared: remove old putty, lime or paint. Then prime the surface for better adhesion of putty to it. For puttying, you need to use a wide spatula - with it you can get a more even plane. To do this, with a narrow spatula, we apply a layer of putty on a wide layer of putty along its entire length and apply it with a smooth, sweeping movement to the places of irregularities.

After the putty has dried sufficiently, it is necessary to clean its surface with sandpaper to give it a final smoothness. Putty is basic and finishing. The base putty is applied mainly in a thick layer to seal large seams and irregularities. The finishing putty has a finer texture and is already applied on top of the base putty and leveled with grout with sandpaper after drying.

Large areas of surfaces are recommended to be leveled with plaster, since putty cannot be applied in a thick layer due to its technological properties. Plaster is sold either in finished form or in the form of a dry mix. However, at the same time, plaster mixtures are divided into basic and finishing. Plaster is used for applying a thick layer over large areas.

In the case when the ceiling surface has a large horizontal difference, it will be necessary to apply the plaster in a rather thick layer. To do this, metal beacons are used - thin profiles, fastened in a level across the surface with a certain step from each other. After that, plaster is applied between the beacons with the desired layer and pulled out with a long spatula so that it covers the beacons by several millimeters. It can also be used for plastering areas with a small layer. A thin layer of putty is applied over the plaster for the final preparation of the ceiling for painting or whitewashing.

Leveling the ceiling with plasterboard

One of the most popular finishing materials is drywall - it is widely used in the decoration of walls and ceilings, the arrangement of decorative niches in the apartment. Drywall allows you to correct any irregularities in the ceiling. Despite the seeming ease of use, not everyone knows how to level the ceiling with drywall. For these purposes, lightweight, thinner sheets of drywall are used.

Initially, it will be necessary to make all the necessary measurements using a level, and only then proceed to assemble the frame. For these purposes, along the walls, at the required height, metal guide profiles are attached. After that, suspensions are attached to the ceiling, on which central profiles are attached, passing from wall to wall. It is necessary to assemble the frame from profiles in such a way that the sheets, when joined to each other, fall with a seam to the middle of the profile.

Such a profile should also pass through the center of the sheet in order to avoid sagging drywall. When installing drywall sheets on the frame, you need to leave a gap of 1 - 2 millimeters between them, because gypsum tends to narrow or expand depending on changes in air humidity or changes in room temperatures. When the installation of the sheets is completed, the seams between them will need to be puttied. To do this, putty is applied to the seams, and then, until the putty has hardened, a mesh tape is deepened with a spatula and the seam is smoothed.

The tape is necessary to prevent cracking of the putty along the seam when it dries or during seasonal deformations of drywall sheets. After sealing the seams, the entire surface of the sheet is puttied with a thin layer of finishing putty. After that, the plasterboard ceiling is ready for further processing - painting, whitewashing, wallpapering and decorative tiles.

Adhesive and suspended ceilings

Leveling the surface with decorative PVC (polyvinyl chloride) tiles allows you to avoid such work as applying finishing plaster and putty. Such tiles are glued with the help of special glue - styrofoam - directly on the surface, leveled with base plaster or on the rough ceiling, which has small flaws.

PVC tiles have a good aesthetic appearance due to a large selection of decorative ornaments. Such tiles, after gluing, are usually painted with acrylic or water-based paint of any suitable color scheme. Before gluing, it is recommended to first make markings so that the tiles lie evenly in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

Installing suspended ceilings will take longer than sticking PVC tiles. But they have a number of advantages over PVC: firstly, they can be installed on a completely unprepared ceiling (without plaster, primer, etc.); secondly, the suspended ceiling allows you to correct the slopes of the ceiling, large differences between the floor slabs.

Of the minuses, it can be noted that it rather underestimates the height of the room and therefore its installation is advisable only in rooms with high ceilings. To install a false ceiling, you must first make a frame from the guide rails included in the kit. Such a frame is assembled according to the level on special suspensions that are attached to the ceiling.

In general, there are quite a few options for how to level the ceiling. Any owner will be able to choose an option according to his taste, technical and financial capabilities.

Here is an instruction describing the installation of a plasterboard ceiling. It is quite detailed and understandable even to those who have not encountered the GKL. All stages are considered - from the project to the rough finish. In addition to standard techniques, you will learn some tricks to save time or money. At the beginning of the article, lists of the necessary tools and materials are given, as well as conditions recommended for such work. Then a short workflow is given. And from the next section, which is called "Plan and calculations", a direct detailed description of each stage begins.

Where does the installation of drywall on the ceiling begin?

With wall decoration. The fact is that the correct installation of drywall on the ceiling requires perfect. So before starting ceiling work, the walls must be prepared for fine finishing (plastered and puttied). Or at least sheathed with drywall.

The future ceiling also needs to be prepared. Remove the old trim if it gets in the way. Fix all communications on the floor - wires, air ducts, pipes.

The rules for installing a plasterboard ceiling are almost the same as for. There are some difficulties. But in general, the idea is worth it, even if you first encountered the GKL. Of course, for the installation of plasterboard ceilings, it is desirable that you have at least a little ability to handle power tools and have some physical strength.

What is required for the installation of plasterboard ceiling

You will have to work with long and relatively heavy materials. You will definitely need an assistant.

Of the tools you will need:

• water or laser level;
• pencil;
• marker;
• scissors for metal (a grinder is suitable);
• perforator;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver and some PH2 Phillips bits.

The list should be supplemented with tools and devices that will greatly facilitate your work:

Chalk shnu
Special bit for drywall with limiter

It will be useful and the usual building level. If you don't have a hydro level or a laser level and nowhere to get them, you can get by with the usual ones.

Trick: how to do without a laser level

1. Tape a standard level to a long, perfectly straight plank;
2. place the bar on a deliberately horizontal surface;
3. if the bubble is not exactly in the middle, slide a thin wedge under the appropriate end of the level. Try to align the bubble perfectly;
4. rotate the bar 180°. Make sure that in this position the bubble is exactly in the middle.

So instead of a short and inaccurate level, you got a long and accurate one.

You will also need finishing tools. The list will depend on the type of finish, but in any case, you need:

• spatulas - narrow and wide;
• bucket (or other convenient container).

It is advisable to have a drill attachment () for mixing building mixtures.

An elementary bench will help a lot. Forget about stepladders - working on them is inconvenient. Put together a simple bench from boards or twist a simple bench from chipboard. Calculate its height so that 10-15 cm remain above your head to the future ceiling surface.

List of materials:

• guide profile;
• ceiling profile;
• single-level connectors (“crabs”);
• longitudinal connectors (if longitudinal profiles longer than 3 meters are required);
• straight suspensions (for heights up to 20 cm);
• anchor hangers + rods (for a height of more than 20 cm);
• dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 mm
• or wood screws for wooden walls and ceilings (black, with a rare thread pitch);
• self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2 x 13 mm (silver, without a drill head);
• (black, with frequent thread pitch)
• and the drywall itself;
• as well as ;
• and sickle.

How many materials will be needed? In order to have enough, but not left surplus, you need an accurate calculation. How to do it, read in the "Scheme and calculations" section.

Work plan

We conditionally divide the installation of hl on the ceiling into five large stages. Further, each section of the article will describe these stages in full detail.

1. Scheme and calculations;
2. markup;
3. installation of profiles and suspensions;
4. drywall installation;
5. finishing/

By measuring the room and drawing up a diagram, you will get a clear idea of ​​how much materials will be needed.

The technology of installing drywall on the ceiling requires accuracy. So that the structure does not warp, it is necessary to apply markings around the perimeter of the room with great accuracy.

Now let's count the number of profiles. The technology of plasterboard ceilings is as follows: first, a guide metal profile is fixed along the perimeter. Ceiling profiles are inserted into it and attached to it. Additionally, the profiles are attached to the ceiling with hangers.

Installation technology of plasterboard ceilings

Important: rules for mounting the guide profile

There should be no gaps between the segments of the guide profile. In the corner, one profile is inserted into the other until it stops. On one plane, the profile segments are joined in a butt joint. If there is an outer corner, then one of the sections of the profile should stick out by 27mm. Thus, a continuous belt is obtained from the guide profile.

To count the number of dowel-nails, focus on the mount approximately every 40-50 cm.

Long sections of the ceiling profile are installed exactly every 50 cm. Gypsum boards are placed across them. Thus, the edges of each sheet will lie clearly in the middle of the profile. Not a single edge should hang in the air! The edges adjacent to the walls will be attached directly to the guide profile.

Jumpers are inserted across the longitudinal profiles. These are segments of the same ceiling profile, installed in increments of 60 cm. The principle is the same: all edges of each sheet of plasterboard should fall into the middle of the profile. The middle of the sheet must also be fixed. The length of the jumpers = 50 cm minus the width of the ceiling profile (60 mm), i.e. 44 cm.

Suspensions are installed along the entire length of the longitudinal profiles with a step of 60 cm.

For clarity, draw all the profiles on your diagram so as not to make a mistake in the calculation. Each intersection of ceiling profiles is one crab and three metal screws (with a press washer).

Self-tapping screws for drywall are screwed in increments of 15 cm. Just take the total length of all profiles in centimeters and divide by 15.

Buy putty with the calculation of 1 kg of the finished mixture per 1 m 2, about 3 kg per sheet. A kilogram of exactly the finished mixture, not a powder.

Materials should be bought with a small margin - about 20%. Quickly calculate the right calculator.

markup

So, we begin directly the installation of ceiling drywall.

Usually drywall on the ceiling is mounted strictly horizontally. Arm yourself with a level and get ready to draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. You can limit yourself to short strokes every half a meter. The main thing is that the ends of the markup converge exactly at the same level.

It is important to correctly position the sheets of drywall on the ceiling

Not to buy tools

It makes no sense to buy rather expensive equipment for one-time work. Tools such as a laser level, puncher and screwdriver can be rented.

You can draw a line with a pencil along a long straight bar. For this purpose, a piece of ceiling profile is suitable. You can put marks only in the corners, then drive carnations into them and pull the cord. But it is even easier to stretch a chalk cord between these marks and slap it on the wall - a perfect, straight and well-marked line will remain.

According to this markup, a guide profile is to be installed. Remember that the finish surface of the ceiling will be about a centimeter lower.

Next, you need to mark the installation locations of the ceiling profiles. Place the marks directly on the wall, just below the guide profile attachment line. They should be visible even after installing the GKL sheets. Apply strokes in 50 cm increments to install long ceiling profiles, in 60 cm increments for lintels.

It remains to note the junction of the longitudinal profile with the jumpers. Draw on the metal with a marker. Put strokes every 60 centimeters on the longitudinal profiles. You can do this even before you install them in the guide profiles. Mark the ends you started with: they should all end up on the same side of the room.

Installation of profiles and hangers

Drill the guide profile with a 6 mm drill bit in increments of approx. When drilling into a wall, hold the profile firmly. Make sure that it does not move relative to the markup.

Through drilling of the guide profile is allowed

If you have drywall walls, then you need to imagine how far the drywall is from the wall. The working part of the dowel (with a notch) must completely sit in the concrete.

On walls longer than 3 m, be sure to “splice” the guide profiles by inserting one into the other. They also need to be joined in the corners. Then install the longitudinal ceiling profiles, inserting their ends into the guide profile.

Trick: how to insert the ceiling profile into the guide easier

Cut off the corners at the ends of the ceiling profile with scissors. This will make it much easier to insert it into the guide, especially if you are working alone.

Hangers are best installed before you fix the longitudinal profiles and install the jumpers. You just need to make sure that the profiles are exactly in their places: you will be guided by them where to put the suspensions.

For fastening to concrete, a dowel-nail is usually used. You can also take it - it holds much stronger, but it is also much more difficult to dismantle it.

Concrete floors in old apartments are insidious. It often happens that the drill, having passed a little less than a centimeter, falls into the void. You can deal with such surprises in different ways:

1. take a very long dowel-nail;
2. attach the suspension in another place;
3. instead of a dowel-nail, drive in a wooden cork and fix the suspension with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to mount a direct suspension not in the extreme holes (which are in the petals), but in the neighboring ones, which are closer to the middle. It is, of course, more convenient to fasten by the petals: it is easier to get close to them when the frame is already assembled. But this method will allow the ceiling to sag a little.

You can use direct hangers even when the ceiling height from the ceiling is more than 20 cm. You just need to use two instead of one hanger.

But it is much more convenient to use an anchor suspension. Anchor hanger rod is attached to the ceiling in the same way as a straight hanger, through an eyelet previously bent 90 ° with pliers. Please note that only the ear itself needs to be bent. The rest of the bar should remain perfectly straight.

Where to install hangers? Above each of the long ceiling profiles, with a step of about 50-60 cm. They must not get into the junctions of the longitudinal and transverse profiles! Focus on the markings previously applied.

direct suspension

Having nailed straight suspensions, bend the legs 90 ° down. Do this carefully - after bending the legs should remain perfectly straight.

When all hangers are nailed, install the longitudinal profiles according to the marking (every 50 cm). Fasten them with self-tapping screws through the guide profile, one at each end.

Tightening screws without a drill is not so difficult. The main thing is to use a suitable bit (marked "PH2"). Apply enough pressure on the screw (but without fanaticism) and turn at medium speed. After a second or two, the sharp tip will pierce the metal, and then the self-tapping screw is screwed in without difficulty.

Cut the jumpers. Please note that the length of the extreme jumpers will not be 44, but 47 cm. Attach the jumpers with “crabs”.

Ceiling crab for connecting transverse profiles

Crabs snap on top. They have special petals with holes for fastening with screws to the profile. Bend the petals and attach the crab with one self-tapping screw to the long profile. Before doing this, make sure that it has not moved relative to the label. Screw two more screws through the same petals into each jumper.

How to save on crabs

Make jumpers 6 centimeters longer. Cut off the side shelves 3 cm from each end. Screw the remaining, middle, part with a self-tapping screw directly to the long ceiling profile from below. Let it not bother you that the head of the self-tapping screw sticks out a little: this will not be a serious hindrance to a snug fit of drywall.

Options for connecting profiles without using a crab in the photo:

With such savings, the rigidity of the frame will suffer somewhat. Of course, the ceiling won't collapse; it will just be a little less smooth and durable.

Do not rush to screw straight hangers to the profile. The problem is that profiles with a length of 2 m or more will inevitably sag. Especially if you used an extension (longitudinal connector).

We eliminate the sagging with the help of a cord tightly stretched across all longitudinal profiles:

1. screw one self-tapping screw into the guide profile at each end of the room, in the middle of the wall;
2. tie a string to them and pull it properly;
3. you can see that the long profiles "lie" on the lace. Before attaching with hangers, lift them so that they hang 1-2 millimeters above the cord.

When all suspensions and all jumpers are screwed to the longitudinal profiles, the frame is ready. We proceed to the installation of drywall on the ceiling.

Installation of drywall sheets

But first you need to make insulation (if in your case it is necessary). There are different ways to insulate the ceiling. Perhaps the most convenient is mineral wool insulation. Roll insulation is simply placed on top of the frame. Work with gloves, goggles and a respirator - dust from mineral wool irritates even the skin, not to mention the mucous membranes.

And now you can screw the sheets of GKL. Start at the edge where the whole sheet fits. Place the sheet across the long profiles, close to the walls. If you did everything correctly and accurately, then the edges of the sheet along the entire length will be exactly in the middle of the ceiling profiles.

Screw the sheet to all profiles, both along the edges and in the middle. Self-tapping screws should go along the edge approximately every 15 cm, in other places you can increase the step to 20-25 cm.

How to attach sheets

GKL has a front side and a wrong side. On the front side, the chamfer along the longitudinal edges of the sheet is rounded and there is a slight unevenness. The back side is always flat.– for tight adhesion to the surface.

Screw in the screws ten millimeters from the edge. At least 15 mm must be retreated from the incised edge. Step back at least five centimeters from the corners!

The head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly recessed into the surface of the plate. Do it carefully: the self-tapping screw is quite easy to tighten, especially with a lack of experience. In such work, a special bit for drywall with a limiter helps a lot.

By the marks on the wall you will see where the profiles go. However, you can draw a sheet of drywall in advance, even before you lift it up and start fixing it. Continue the longitudinal row of sheets, end to end, without gaps. In this work it is difficult to do without an assistant.

Devices to not hold a sheet of drywall

Make a brace. Take a board a little longer than the height of the ceiling, screw a piece of board about a meter long across it to make the letter "T". Reinforce with two planks obliquely. Such a device, similar to a mop, is used by masters of the whole world when they make installation of plasterboard on the ceiling.

Ways to install the GKL ceiling without an assistant:

Lift use

Homemade version of holding a sheet on the ceiling

The next row starts with half a sheet. The technology requires that the seams between the sheets do not intersect crosswise. The correct arrangement of the plates resembles brickwork.

How to cut sheets of drywall

With a knife. Can be office. Mark exactly the middle and make an incision along the ruler. You probably still have a piece of the ceiling profile - use it as a ruler. The incision may be shallow, it is enough to cut through the paper. Place the same profile under the cut or lay the sheet on the edge of the table and break it. It remains only to cut the paper from the back.

If you need to cut a very narrow strip, then it is easier to use a hacksaw for wood.

At cut edges, you need to additionally chamfer. This is necessary for high-quality puttying. With the same knife, cut off a few millimeters from the front side at an angle of about 45 °. Accuracy is not required at this stage. Do not touch the factory longitudinal edges - their chamfer is already rounded.

Finishing

Prime the ceiling with a roller or large brush. With a small brush, carefully go over the seams.

Apply the tape after the primer has dried. It is glued only at the junction of two factory seams, as well as at the corners. Right after that you can.

Mix in a small amount of putty. At this stage, it is required to cover only the seams and recesses from the screws. Apply putty with a narrow spatula, then smooth with a wide one.

According to the technology, it is necessary to putty the seams twice. So you have to wait for the putty to dry, then apply a second, thin, layer. But before that, be sure to scrape off all the burrs with a spatula (just don't make much effort).

Conclusion

Actually, that's the whole article on how to mount a plasterboard ceiling. Save this page or print it - let it be your cheat sheet on how to install drywall on the ceiling.

Good luck with your repair! In addition, watch a video selection on the installation of GKL structures.

A plasterboard suspended ceiling is a common way to finish. To install it, you need to go through four stages: marking with the use of a tool, mounting the frame, sheathing with such drywall and finishing. The most important is the first stage. Let's take a closer look at how competent marking is carried out for a plasterboard suspended ceiling frame using different tools.

Purpose of markup

The answer to the question of how to mark the ceiling under the GKL is simple. The markup must be applied accurately, since if you do it incorrectly, the ceiling will turn out to be crooked or it will not adhere well to the frame.

Applying markings for mounting a stretch ceiling on a plasterboard frame is performed to achieve the following goals:

• production of a smooth stretch or suspended ceiling from plasterboard. For high-quality work, the profiles are fixed at the same level, and since in most rooms the concrete floor is installed crookedly, competent marking under the frame with the help of a tool and marking allows you to smooth out irregularities;
• reduction of time spent on the installation of a plasterboard ceiling and the rational use of materials. Competent markings for plasterboard ceilings will help to more accurately calculate the amount of materials and ensure savings. When marking, the attachment points of the profiles for the frame will be clearly defined, which will allow you not to get confused and save time on rework.

What to consider when marking

Before marking, you should find a mark that determines the height of the new drywall ceiling. The required distance is measured in all corners of the room and where the surface is the lowest - this will be the level of the new coating. It should be noted that the plasterboard ceiling box will hide in itself:

• wiring, antenna cable;
• lamps;
• thermal or sound insulation;
• profiles 2.5 cm wide.

The ideal option for mounting a suspended plasterboard ceiling is a height of ten to eighteen centimeters.

After that, you need to draw a line parallel to the floor along the entire perimeter at the desired height. Various tools are used for this.

Marking methods

There are several of them, and for each a water, building or laser level is used. Let's look at each option in more detail.

water level

The water level is an inexpensive device that is easy to use, but you will need an assistant to use it. The principle of operation of the tool for marking the frame under a suspended or suspended plasterboard ceiling is simple. The level must be filled with water so that it is at the zero mark in two flasks. Control is carried out by approaching one vessel to the second.

After everything is set, one person needs to put an end to the mark on the wall so that the zero point of the device and the desired water level coincide with the mark. Further, the second person goes to the second corner of the room and tries to find the position at which the zero point will be reached in his level flask, and a mark is applied here. The same procedure is performed around the entire perimeter of the room.

After all the marks are affixed, with the help of a masking cord or profile, the obtained points are connected to each other. The marking of the ceiling by marks using the tool is completed.

Building level

Marking tool - spirit level

The use of a building level is the least accurate way to mark a suspended plasterboard ceiling. When using it, there are many risks of error tolerance, and this tool is suitable only for a small room.

The level is applied to the wall so that one end of it is at the desired mark. Next, they find a position in which the air point will be clearly centered, and put another mark on the wall. After that, you can choose the most appropriate option from the two:

• using a level, place marks on the wall at the desired height. Control is carried out by applying a level to the wall;
• using painter's thread, lay a line along the entire wall at the desired height. Place one end of the thread on the reference mark. It is necessary to pull it so that it passes exactly through the applied mark. You need to stretch the thread to the very corner of the room and make sure that it passes clearly through the two applied points.

The markings on the remaining walls of the room are carried out similarly. If there is no thread, a tape measure is used. It is drawn through the points, and then a straight line is drawn with a pencil and a ruler.

Important! The greater the distance from the first mark to the second, the better. The best option is to use a two-meter level.

For large rooms, this option is not suitable, as the line may turn out to be a curve.

Laser level

Marking tool - laser level

Its cost is higher than the first two devices, but the markup quality justifies it. The laser level is intended for marking both on the wall along the perimeter of the room and on the surface of the ceiling when attaching frame profiles.

The principle of operation of the device will not cause difficulties. It is installed at the correct height. Next, there are two options:

• installation of supporting profiles immediately along the line from the laser. Modern models of devices of this type give a projection simultaneously on all four walls;
• marking along the beam with a pencil, first on one wall, and then on the rest. After that, you need to fix the profiles under the plasterboard ceiling.

Important! It is imperative to ensure that the lines are strictly parallel, as distortion will cause the ceiling to turn out to be uneven. Such installation looks sloppy and aesthetically unattractive.

Marking up will take a lot of time, but doing it yourself is real. You just need to follow the tips and recommendations, then the quality of the plasterboard ceiling will be guaranteed.

Video tip:

It is not difficult to mount it with your own hands, if you thoroughly understand the process of work. The whole point of the work lies in the following steps:

1. markup
2. Profile frame installation
3. Installation of drywall on the frame

The first stage of work is the most responsible, and therefore it needs to be given the most attention. If the ceiling is marked incorrectly, then it may turn out to be crooked or loosely attached to the frame. These mistakes will at least require reworking the entire structure from scratch, and this is an extra waste of time, nerves and money.

This article will help you understand the correct layout of the ceiling for drywall, and also explain the principle of using different levels for it.

Marking the ceiling under the drywall frame

Drywall is a convenient material to use, but, like any other, it has its own.

The first stage in the installation of drywall is the marking of the ceiling, which will be needed for the following purposes:

• make the ceiling level. To do this, the frame profiles must be fixed at the same level. And given the fact that often the ceilings are initially crooked, the markup is designed to resolve this problem.
• spend less time on labor and materials. Correctly marking the ceiling, you will know exactly how much materials you will need, and you can not buy more than you need. During the work, it will be clear to you where to fix the profiles on the plane of the walls and ceiling, which will allow you not to get confused.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the point at the height of which the new ceiling will be located. Find the place where it is lowest in the room and measure the desired distance. Consider what you need to hide behind drywall:

• communications,
• lamps,
• insulation (if any)
• profile width (2.5 cm) and plasterboard (0.9 cm).

Usually this distance is 10-18 cm. Now you need to draw a line parallel to the floor around the entire perimeter of the room at the indicated level. This can be done in several ways, which are detailed below.

Drawing markings around the perimeter of the room

Marking with a water level

The water level is an inexpensive device (it costs about 150-200 r). It is easy to use, but it takes two people to use it.

The hydraulic level is filled with water up to the 0 mark in both flasks. Check if the level is the same by bringing the vessels closer to each other.

The first person puts his end to the mark on the wall so that the line 0 on the flask and the water level coincide with it, respectively. His assistant at this time goes to another corner of the room and tries to find a position in which the water will occupy the same zero level in the vessel. A mark is placed on the wall at this point. Similarly, around the perimeter of the entire room.

Using a paint cord or just a profile, connect the marks. Ceiling marked.

Building level markup

This is the least accurate type of wall marking. There are many chances to make mistakes, so experts advise resorting to it in small rooms.

Apply the level to the wall so that one end is on the mark. Find a position where the air dot is in the middle and make a mark on the wall. Next, there are two options:

• Using the building level, continue to make marks throughout the room.
• With the help of a paint thread, make a line immediately on the entire wall.
  • Attach the end of the thread to the reference mark, pull the thread so that it passes exactly through the marked point, and stretch it to the corner of the room. It is necessary for the thread to pass exactly through these two points.
  • Take off the level. You should check the correctness of the line by attaching a building level.
  • Do the same with the rest of the walls. It is not necessary to use thread here.
  • You can attach a tape measure and unwind it over the entire wall in the same way as a thread, i.e. clear through two points. Then draw a line with a pencil like a ruler.

If you resort to this method in large rooms, there is a high risk of making a curved line.

Marking with a laser level

The cheapest laser level costs about 3000 rubles. But the price justifies the quality: with the help of such a tool it is very convenient to make both markings on the wall around the perimeter and on the ceiling when you mount the profiles.

It is necessary to install the device on the wall at the desired level and either immediately attach the supporting profiles (if the beam projects a line on all walls), or mark the line of the beam with a pencil, and then do the same on the remaining surfaces.

After marking the wall, fix the profiles.

Ceiling laser marking it is also not difficult to do, reconfigure your device according to the instructions.

How to put labels on the ceiling?

Now you can take on the marking of the ceiling under the drywall frame. It also requires meticulous and very accurate calculations. Depending on the size of the sheet, find the distance through which you will draw marks. Here it is necessary to take into account that:

• The edges of the drywall sheets should be connected in the middle of the profile.
• In the middle of the GPL there should be a profile

Observe a distance of 60 cm between the longitudinal elements of the frame, and between the transverse 50 or 60 cm.

IMPORTANT

Lines of the same direction should be parallel to each other and to the wall.

The markup is ready. You can get started.

Marking the ceiling for drywall with your own hands will take time. But once is enough to understand the principle of work, which this article contributed to.

We make markings for the ceiling.

From the author: welcome to our building portal, dear reader. If you decide to mount a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, be sure to read this article. Why? Because any work succeeds only when the appropriate preparation is carried out. How to mark the ceiling for drywall? That's what we'll talk about today.

The quality of all subsequent work depends on the markup. You should not have any difficulties with this; even with a significant curvature of the draft ceiling, the chances of doing everything right are very high, even for beginners. Of course, if you know how to use the appropriate tools. In general, read the article and shake your head.

General characteristics of the workflow

Marking the ceiling, first of all, is needed in order to determine the horizontal, that is, the position of the plane of the new ceiling. The other task is somewhat easier. It consists in drawing markings on the base. The frame will be subsequently mounted along these lines.

When drawing parallel lines on the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account the step - 40/60 cm. And, of course, observe their parallelism with respect to the walls of the room and each other.

The plane should be located at a distance that can reach up to a meter (!) In some rooms, from the lowest point of the base on which the structure will be mounted. This distance may be due to the need to use insulation or some other factor. In general, cases are always individual.

Spatial placement also needs to be given due attention. Especially if you plan to mount a false ceiling in several levels. I believe, in general terms, it is clear what the marking of the ceiling under the frame is. Now let's talk about tools.

Equipment

Naturally, in the process of work, we will need some specific tools, the main of which is the building level. As we know, the most common are three types of levels:

• profile;
• laser;
• water (hydraulic level).

In particular, we will talk about them.

But we will start with the simplest. As we understand it, initially we need to determine the position relative to the floor slab. In other words, determine how many centimeters (or meters) the ceiling will drop.

This can be done even using a regular ruler. As a rule, in apartments and residential buildings, the floors are in the same plane. Therefore, we can simply put marks on the wall from the floor slab at a strictly specified distance every, say, 30 cm. As we mentioned earlier, this distance can be a meter.

In many houses, the ceilings are not particularly flat. Therefore, in order to correctly determine the lower boundary of the suspended structure, we no longer need a ruler, but more accurate measuring instruments. This is where the building level comes to the rescue.

Profile level

First, we will talk about a simple measuring tool, such as a profile level. I assume that you have an idea of ​​what it is and how it works. The main thing is that the air bubble is strictly in the middle.

Source: http://gid-str.ru

You simply apply the tool to the wall, and then draw a line along the length of the level - and so on around the entire perimeter of the room. Of course, the longer the level, the more convenient it will be to work.

Keep in mind that markings carried out in this way are only appropriate in rooms with a relatively small area. In an ordinary room of 15 m², this method is quite appropriate, but in larger rooms you will need a different tool, otherwise errors, albeit minor ones, cannot be avoided. In addition, the work will take a long time.

water level

Now this is another level! In every sense of that expression. This device consists of two test tubes with a scale connected by a long tube. The water level indicator is... what do you think? - H2O! Water, by the way, can be tinted so that it is more noticeable when working.

Source: http://gid-str.ru

There is nothing complicated in using the hydraulic level, but for work you will need an assistant with whom you will adjust the height of the test tubes. When you agree that the position of the indicator (water) is in the correct position, you have to put marks on the wall, and then connect them with a line. Everything is simple and natural, like H 2 O!

Laser level

This tool will greatly simplify and speed up the work. It saves you from having to measure lines, since a laser beam is a line. The instruction manual contains information on how to set it up and, in fact, use it.