How to arrange window slopes so as not to kill the interior. Do-it-yourself window slopes: step-by-step instructions on how to make window slopes Window slope design

The owners of apartments or houses who have installed new windows quite rightly have a desire to tidy up the surfaces around them. Very often, it is simply necessary to do this also because when installing new window systems, old slopes are severely damaged and cannot be “restored”, or they come close to the window sash sheds, which makes it difficult to open it. In addition, the slopes are also finished in order to strengthen the sound and heat insulation of window openings by covering the mounting foam, which fills the gaps between the wall and the window unit during its installation. Very often, for this, a layer of insulation is laid between the finishing material and the wall.

Do-it-yourself window slopes can be made neat and functional in several ways and using various finishing, insulating or combined materials that combine both qualities. To figure out which option seems easier to install and is more suitable for a particular case, you need to consider the most popular of them.

What materials are most often used for the installation of slopes?

There are three most commonly used methods giving slopes of an aesthetic appearance, each of them is good in its own way, and can be used in combination with insulating material. So, PVC panels can be installed on the window slopes, plasterboard glued or fixed to the crate, or the surface is leveled with a plaster and putty mixture.

Slopes from PVC panels

For finishing using this technology, plastic lining and auxiliary fittings are used. They help hide the edges of the panels at the junctions of horizontal and vertical surfaces, as well as at the lines where they adjoin the window frame and at the outer corners of the slopes.

In addition to the usual PVC lining, sandwich panels specially made for this purpose are used for cladding, which consist of layers of plastic and expanded polystyrene. This material will facilitate installation, as it does not have to separately adjust and install insulation material. In addition, this approach also often allows you to do without some fittings.

Like ordinary lining, sandwich panels are great for decorating slopes around plastic windows, especially since, if desired, you can choose the desired PVC color, which will be in full harmony with the shade of the window frame.

It is quite possible to install plastic slopes on your own, without resorting to the help of craftsmen - you just need to study the installation instructions and scrupulously adhere to it during work.

Plastered slopes

This method of finishing can be called traditional. High-quality finished surfaces will last a long time without losing a neat appearance. However, it should be noted that without a layer of insulating material, plaster is not able to become an effective barrier to the cold coming from the window opening. The disadvantages of this method include the complexity and duration of the arrangement, since the solution is applied in several layers, each of which must dry well. In addition, plastering work requires a certain amount of experience in their implementation, and without it, it is quite possible to spoil the surface, wasting time and money in vain.

The process of finishing slopes with plaster mixtures is quite “dirty”, and since it takes a lot of time (sometimes it takes from one and a half to two weeks), in a room where work in progress, it will be necessary to carry out daily cleaning or not use the room at all.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Plasterboard slopes

Often, the owners of apartments and houses prefer the design of window slopes with drywall. This material is easy to install, it can be used together with a heater, the sheathing is quite durable and perfectly levels the surface. In fact, it is dry plaster, but only its installation is much faster than the “wet” version. This method does not give large pollution in the room during work and does not require much experience to perform them. It is enough to follow the already tested instructions in order to accurately and correctly carry out the finish.

Today, several types of drywall are produced, and one of them (GKLV, greenish in color) can withstand high humidity - it should be preferred for slope design. Difficulties during the installation process can be caused not by the installation of the material itself, but by its subsequent finishing for applying a decorative coating - this is a primer and putty. Without these works, "dry plaster" can quickly become unusable, as it has a rather fragile structural structure and can be used for a long time only when closing cuts and finishing surfaces.

Would you like to make plasterboard window slopes?

The installation process is described in detail in the article of our portal "", which is easy to follow the link. In the same place, in the publication, questions about the varieties and performance of this material are well covered.

Tools and materials for slope installation

For work on bringing the slopes in order, depending on the option chosen, various materials will be required. The list of tools varies slightly - they will be needed not only for installation work, but also for preparatory activities.

Tools for the job

Construction tools are required for the installation of any of the selected materials.

BUT. If plastering work is to be done, then it is necessary to prepare:

• Spatulas for applying and leveling solutions.
• Plaster trowel or spatula - These are also used to apply plaster or putty mortar to the wall.
• Corner Leveler - it will help you quickly and accurately correct the inner and outer corners, which are always the most difficult to remove.
• A grater is used for leveling and smoothing plastered or puttied surfaces.
• Falcon - it is convenient to use it to bring the solution to the surfaces to be finished during work.
• Plaster trowel - this professional tool is designed for applying and leveling mixtures.
• An electric drill with a mixer attachment is required for mixing solutions.
• Mixing container.
• Metal profile or wooden rail - needed to create guides.

B. To carry out the installation of PVC panels, you need to have at hand:

• Sharp construction knife.
• Corner, ruler and tape measure for measuring and fitting panel blanks.
• A construction syringe for working with sealant or a gun for mounting foam.

AT. Some tools are required to mount any of the materials listed above:

• Wide brush for applying primer.
• Building level, which will help control the removal of surfaces ideally in vertical and horizontal planes.
• Metal shears for cutting reinforcing corners or profiles.

Separately, it must be said about the tools intended for preliminary preparation of slope surfaces:

A hatchet or a special chisel attachment for a puncher - these tools will be required in cases where the slopes are made inaccurately or are located in such a way that they do not allow the window sash to be fully opened, and they will simply have to be beaten off.

Building hair dryer - in the event that you can limit yourself to removing the old paint coating.

A spatula is required if you only need to clean the surface of the slopes from old plaster, paint or wallpaper.

Necessary materials

BUT. If plastic slopes are chosen for installation, you will need to purchase from the materials:

• Plastic panels (or lining), the number of which is calculated according to the parameters of the slope. The panels will be needed for installation on the sides and ceiling of the window opening, which means that in order to find out the exact amount of material, you need to measure the height, width of the slopes and wall thickness. Typically, panels are purchased with a 10÷15% reserve.
• Starting plastic rail having a U-shape.

• Rail having an F-shape (F-profile).

• Internal corner profiles installed at the panel joints.

• thermal insulation material - expanded polystyrene or mineral wool of the desired thickness and size. If already insulated sandwich panels are used, then additional thermal insulation can be dispensed with.
• Wooden or plywood lath 100 ÷ 120 mm thick.
• Self-tapping screws of the required length.
• White silicone for sealing gaps between panels.
• Mounting foam - it is better to use "professional" in tubes, and not cheap in aerosol cans.
• Staples.
• Primer composition.

For the installation of PVC sandwich panels, the same materials will be required, except for the U-shaped and corner rails. An F-shaped plank may be required to decorate the outer corner, but you can do without it by using a putty mixture to decorate it. Which corner finish option to choose depends entirely on the preference of the homeowner.

B. To finish the slopes with plaster, the following materials will be required:

• Putty and plaster mixture.

• Finishing putty.

• Priming antifungal composition.

• Perforated paint profile to reinforce external corners.

• Finishing decorative material: water-based paint, wallpaper or even ceramic tiles - according to the preference of the owners.

Prices for popular types of antiseptics

Antiseptics

Slope surface preparation

After everything you need is purchased and prepared, you can proceed to the preparation of surfaces for the installation of finishing materials. This process can be carried out in different ways.

• If the window is installed in such a way that there is enough space around it on the slopes for mounting the finish with insulation, then it is often enough just to remove old paint, whitewash or wallpaper from these surfaces.

Whitewash or wallpaper from the walls around the window can be easily removed if you pre-soak them by soaking them several times with water.

Oil-based or organic-based paint is usually removed with a trowel by heating the surface with a building hair dryer.

Cleaned slopes need to be primed in order to avoid mold spots under the finish, which can not only ruin the walls and finishes, but also bring an unpleasant smell and a very unhealthy atmosphere into the living quarters. The fact is that the fungus can be dangerous to the health of residents, so this stage of work cannot be neglected.

The application of the primer is most often carried out in several layers, each time - after the previous one has completely dried. Not only smooth surfaces are processed, but also hard-to-reach corners - for this you need to use a narrow brush.

• Another, more complex preparation option is the complete dismantling of the plaster layer applied to the slopes.

This method is resorted to in cases where a very small distance is left between the window frame and the slope, which does not allow the window to be fully opened. Another situation where this cardinal measure cannot be dispensed with is the impossibility of installing slope insulation or even ordinary plastic panels.

To quickly remove a layer of plaster, a perforator with a special nozzle, which is called a chisel-shovel, is used. She well pry all the layers applied to the wall, and they are removed in large enough pieces.

Next, from the cleaned slopes, you need to sweep away dust and particles of the wall and plaster - this process is carried out with a soft brush or a wide brush. Well, after that, the wall must be primed with the same antifungal compound.

slope finishing

To make it easy to carry out installation on the slopes of a particular material, it is necessary to consider each of the options step by step.

They proceed to finishing work after the primer applied to the wall is well absorbed and completely dry.

Finishing slopes with plaster without insulation

The process of plastering surfaces around the window is as follows:

Illustration
	The first step is to install guides from a metal profile or a wooden slat around the window niche. It should be noted that a metal guide is preferable, as it has a lower adhesion than wood - it will be easier to remove it. The guides are set according to the building level and fixed to the wall with dowels. The profile should protrude beyond the corner of the window opening by the thickness of the future plaster layer.
	Another guide from the perforated corner is exposed near the window frame. It is oriented to the profile installed around the opening, since the sketched plaster will be aligned along the plane specified by these two guides. The corner is installed on a gypsum-based putty, as it dries quickly enough.
	The next step is to pour the plaster mixture onto the wall. Sometimes it is replaced with an ordinary cement mortar, which is kneaded from cement and well-sifted sand, that is, in no case should it be interspersed with small pebbles. The task of this stage is to make the outer corner even and create the necessary plaster layer.
	The same work is carried out on the ceiling part of the slope.
	After the solution is thrown onto the slope, it must be leveled with a rule, a trowel or a flat rail. This layer is leveled, so to speak, roughly, the main thing is that the solution fills all the voids and the edge of the slope, approximately forming an even angle. Leveling should be carried out after the mortar has set. The process is carried out from below, from the windowsill. The rule is installed on the guides and carefully rises up, leveling the thrown solution, the excess of which is immediately removed. After completing this work, the slopes are left to dry completely.
	Further, external guides are removed from the dried slopes, and perforated paint corners are installed on the formed corners using gypsum putty, which will reliably strengthen the edges of the slopes. Having installed them over the entire height and width of the opening, you need to wait for the gypsum composition to dry completely - this process will take about half an hour.
	When the putty dries, and the corner will hold securely on the wall and slope, another layer of plaster is applied to their surface, which should have the height of the installed paint corner. It is aligned in the same way, starting from the window sill, with the help of a rule that goes up to the ceiling plane. From the outside, the edge of the corner is compared with the wall with a mortar that is applied with a spatula. Internal corners are formed with an angular spatula, which captures two planes at once and the joint between them. Leveled slopes are left to dry completely, and then primed.
	The last layer consists of finishing putty, and is applied with a thickness of no more than 1-1.5 mm.
	The work is carried out with a wide spatula, with light pressure on it, movements from the window frame towards the room. If marks from the edges of the tool remain on the surface, they must be carefully smoothed out.
	The last step is the finishing smoothing of the surface with grout. The process is carried out in a circular motion counterclockwise. After such grinding, before painting, it is recommended to prime the slopes again. The primer will not allow the paint to soak into the putty, so the coloring will be even.

For clarity, detailed Video instruction for plastering window slopes.

Video: how to properly plaster window slopes

Finishing slopes with plaster with insulation

In this finishing option, some stages are similar to the first method, but it also has its own characteristics, so it should be considered separately.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The heater is mounted on a primed flat surface. Therefore, if chips and potholes are found after chipping off the old plaster, they will need to be leveled with a putty or plaster mixture using a wide spatula. After the repair layer and primer have dried, they proceed to gluing polystyrene foam panels, which should have a thickness of no more than 15 mm.
	The material is fixed to the mounting foam, which is best applied directly to the insulation, or to mounting glue like "liquid nails". The part smeared with strips of glue is pressed tightly against the slopes. The foam is first installed on the side walls, and then on the ceiling part of the slopes. If necessary, the joints between the foam sheets are additionally filled with foam.
	If the slopes are wide enough, then the insulation panels are additionally fixed to the wall with the help of “fungi” fasteners. To do this, with a puncher, directly through the polystyrene foam, holes are drilled in the wall, into which dowels are inserted - “fungi”. Then special spacer nails are installed and hammered into them. Using this mount, you need to take into account the thickness of the insulation, since the fungus should be deepened into the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm, and its cap should be at the same level with the surface of the foam or be slightly, by 1 - 1.5 mm, recessed into it.
	Having pasted the foam, which will level the surfaces and corners, they proceed to reinforcing its surface - only in this case the finish will last a long time. On external corners, corners with a reinforcing fiberglass mesh are mounted on glue or gypsum-based putty. The glue is applied with a spatula to the edge of the slope, then a corner is pressed onto it, and the excess adhesive composition that has protruded through the holes is immediately removed.
	From the outside, the corner is also glued to glue or putty. You can also use cement-based glue, but if you need the surface to be treated to dry quickly, it is recommended to take a gypsum composition. The mesh is pressed into the applied composition with a spatula, and its excess is leveled or removed.
	Next, the mesh is fixed to all foam surfaces. It can be glued onto an already applied thin layer of putty or attached to buttons, and the solution can then be applied on top of the mesh, leveling it. This layer will become preparatory for the finishing putty, which is applied to the dried surface. The final leveling layer and other work are carried out in the same way as in the first version.

Video: how to level plastered slopes with putty

Find out some of the available ways to do it from our new article.

Installation of plastic slopes

PVC panels can be divided into two types - conventional and sandwich panels, which have insulation in their multilayer structure. Their installation is most often identical and is carried out using fittings, however, sandwich panels can sometimes be joined with a sealant, and glued to the walls with mounting foam or “liquid nails”.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Finishing the slopes with plastic panels begins with fixing along the perimeter inside the window opening, on the slopes, excluding the window sill, a wooden lath. This element will strengthen the corner and allow fitting profiles to be mounted on it without any problems. In the event that the window opening turned out to be wider than the installed frames, then a wooden beam can also be fixed between the frame and the slope. Usually it is installed during the foaming of the gaps between the wall and the frame during the installation of the window system itself. In this case, the thickness of the lath fixed along the outer edge is selected depending on the size of the section of the first beam.
	Next, the installation location of the start profile is determined. If a wooden beam is installed between the frame and the wall, then the profile is pressed against the frame, and fixed with a stapler and staples to the wooden beam. This operation is shown in the photo.
	If the beam was not installed, then the profile is attached directly to the frame, along the line defined using the building level, relying on the outer rail. The profile is fixed on the side and top edges of the frame. At the junction of the walls and the ceiling of the slope, an angular profile is installed, in which there are two gaps for mounting plastic panels in them. The photo clearly shows the fixed starting and corner profiles.
	The next step along the outer side of the slopes, with entry to the surface of the wall, is an F-shaped profile, which will act as not only a panel holder, but also a casing. The profile is fixed to a wooden rail installed along the outer edge of the slopes.
	At the corners, the F-profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and connected at a right angle. In order for the cut to be perfect, and the profile not to be damaged, it is necessary to use a miter box when cutting blanks.
	Next, measurements are taken from the slopes, and parts of the desired size are cut out of the plastic panels. After that, they are installed in the grooves of the profile - for this they can be bent a little.
	In some cases, after bending the profile shelves, their edges "do not want" completely return to their original place, and gaps form. To restore them to their original state, silicone sealant can be applied in these places, and then temporarily fix the assembly with masking tape, which is glued to the surface of the plastic panel.
	Another option for mounting conventional PVC panels on slopes can be a method using insulation, which is laid between the slope wall and the finishing material. Installation is carried out in the same way as described above, but in this case a certain space is left for the insulation. 1 - fixing the starting U-shaped rail to the window frame or wooden beam; 2 - installation of a wooden lath on the outer edge of the slope; 3 - fixing the J-profile on a wooden rail - this profile will serve to fix the casing at the end of the work; 4 - installation of insulation material between the wall and the PVC panel; 5 - installation of a conventional or sandwich panel in the start profile; 6 - installation of the CL-profile, which snaps onto the protruding part of the J-profile. Optionally, it can be glued to the wall and panel using white silicone or sealant. It should be noted that if sandwich panels are used in this option, then instead of insulating material, mounting foam can be used to fill the cavities between the finish and the wall.

Video: installation of plastic window slopes

Sandwich panels can be installed on the surface of slopes in another way without the use of fitting profiles, but with the use of mounting foam, sealant or liquid nails. The gaps between the planes, in this case, are sealed with white silicone.

The installation of sandwich panels directly on the slope walls is quite simple, but an important condition for it is a more or less even surface, so before installing the finishing material, it must be leveled and dried.

• Dimensions are taken from the slopes and sandwich panels are cut out along them.

• Then one of the selected adhesives is applied to them, and the panel is pressed against the surface of the slope.

If mounting foam is used for installation, then the ceiling panel of the window opening is first glued.

The ceiling plane is sprayed with water from a spray bottle - this will increase the adhesion of the surfaces.

Then the foam is applied along the perimeter of the part to be glued with a thin strip, since it tends to expand quite strongly, and with a large amount of it, the foam is able to squeeze the finishing material away from the wall.

• Having pressed the material to the surface, it must be held for 5 ÷ 7 minutes, and then the supports must be installed and left until the foam has completely dried and expanded. The support can be built from a planed board, which is pressed against a panel, which is supported by bars, placing them on the windowsill.
• After that, the side panels of the slopes are mounted in the same way.

• Then, if there are unfilled gaps between the slope wall and the finish, they are additionally foamed. When the foam dries and expands, its excess is cut off with a sharp clerical knife.

• Further, the joints between the wall and the finishing material should be closed with a special profile, which is called the casing. It is made in the form of a corner and can have different widths, which allows them to close the unsightly joint of even a large width. The platband is glued to the "liquid nails" and tacked on while they dry with masking tape.
• If for some reason small gaps have formed between the panels, then they are carefully filled with white silicone, which, after drying, will be almost invisible.

It should be noted that there are other ways to perform slope finishing work, which are somewhat different from those described above, but the principle of their implementation is unchanged.

- First, you need to decide in advance on the choice of material, whether it will be insulated initially or this process will be carried out during the installation process.

- The second is to choose the material for insulation and for fixing all the details.

- Third - decide which method of installation would be preferable: with or without fitting profiles.

Having decided on all the criteria, you can take measurements and purchase everything you need for work.

It is not so difficult to make slopes on the windows on your own, if you approach this process with the utmost care, take accurate measurements, and choose all the necessary components correctly.

Is it possible to install a plastic window with double-glazed windows yourself?

Installation of slopes is the final stage of installing a window system. In order for the windows to really be insulated according to all the rules, it is necessary to take into account many nuances even during the installation of the frames.

- in the corresponding publication of our portal.

There are several materials for facing openings, but PVC panels are very popular. Finishing the slopes of windows with plastic with your own hands is particularly simple. Let's talk about this technique next.

The popularity of this material is due to many of its advantages.

• Affordable price (from 100 rubles per linear meter).
• Absolute (the highest among all serial materials) moisture resistance.
• Mounting speed. Finishing windows with plastic is done in a matter of hours.
• UV resistant.

Important: Not all panels are UV resistant. Therefore, pay attention to this property when buying - ask the seller about it.

• No dirt during installation. This eliminates the need to free up space before repair.
• Ease of installation.

These properties make other materials fade into the background.

We study installation technology

Self-finishing window slopes with plastic is not difficult, so anyone can handle it. Next, consider all the nuances.

What you need to purchase

First of all, we prepare such a set of tools and materials:

• Plastic panels. Usually they are sold in a strip 6 meters long - it is just enough for one opening. In large stores, you can ask them to be cut to your size. Therefore, before buying, make careful measurements.
• U-shaped strip. It will act as a starting element.
• The rail is 1-1.5 cm thick.
• Level (ideally laser).
• F-band.
• A construction stapler with appropriate staples (not stationery - they are completely fragile).
• Powerful hand drill (or puncher). If the house is wooden - a good screwdriver is enough.
• Thermal insulation material (for example, basalt wool).
• Knife and scissors for metal.
• Self-tapping screws of two types - 95 mm and 4.5 mm (they are also called bedbugs).
• Silicone sealant white.

Preparatory procedures

In order for the installation of slopes on plastic windows to be successful, it will be necessary to prepare the initial surface. To do this, it needs to be leveled by removing the remnants of old materials. First, we glue the double-glazed window with newspapers (film) and masking tape - so as not to stain it. It is advisable to cover the window sill with something - quite a lot of debris will fall on it.

Tip: to make old plaster easier to clean - moisten it with water.

We go through the sandpaper, and knock down the large protrusions with a spatula. If they do not give in, you can walk with a screwdriver with a “brush” nozzle. At the end, we remove all debris and dust.

Main front of work

We proceed to the most responsible procedures in this order:

This completes the window trim. If there is no need for additional thermal insulation, then everything can be made even easier: just glue the panel to the surface with liquid nails. If we are talking about a wooden house, then you can use self-tapping screws: we screw them around the edges (do not forget to sink the hats), which will subsequently close with a corner.

Today we will talk about finishing window slopes. Many do not attach much importance to this most important finishing component, but in vain.
Probably many had to deal with such a problem: they removed the old, wooden windows and installed new, plastic ones in their place. At first, everything was just fine, the windows are beautiful, they open and close easily, they do not require annual sealing, they fit well into the interior.

But a short period of time passes, and you notice that mold begins to form on the slopes, especially in the corners.

The acquisition and use of various modern household chemicals does not work. After a short period, the mold reappears.
So what's the reason?
And it is rather banal: the finishing of the internal slopes of plastic windows was done incorrectly, with gross violations. In this case, the appearance of mold is not a cause, but a consequence.

Consequences - visible and invisible

Realizing that many are concerned about the issue of fixing this problem with their own hands, today we will consider it in detail and here's why. Solving the question of how to get rid of mold on the slopes of plastic windows will help to understand at the same time that the technology for finishing slopes for plastic windows is different from finishing for wooden windows.
This understanding will help you avoid mistakes in the future. It is always easier to prevent than to correct.
First, we will address the issue of the formation of mold itself.

Today, window replacement has become very common. Old frames are still being actively replaced with modern analogues made of plastic, metal and wood. The installation process itself takes place quite quickly, which cannot be said about window decoration from the outside, since a number of technological requirements are imposed on this procedure, and from an aesthetic point of view, the owner should be satisfied. In the article, we will analyze various ways to create beautiful and reliable slopes and frames, focusing on materials and how to install them.

So, why is it worth paying close attention to the correct finishing of windows from the outside. The first thing that comes to mind is the neat appearance of the building. Without quality framing, you can't expect your home to look neat. Slopes and architraves are actively used in shaping the style of the building, its design, but not only. In many ways, they directly affect the comfort of people staying inside the building:

1. The technology for installing window frames requires leaving a technological gap, that is, they are never placed close to the walls. The resulting gaps are necessary to compensate for the movement of the structure as a result of shrinkage and even seismic activity, as well as the window system itself during temperature effects. If this technology requirement is violated, any changes would lead to deformation of the frames, due to which the windows would stop opening, and, possibly, the glass would be squeezed out.

2. The technological gaps left are direct ways of heat exchange between the room and the street, so they must be insulated. Previously, tow, wool, felt were used for these purposes, now it is mainly polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

3. All of these types of materials quickly become unusable if they come into contact with the atmosphere, moisture, wind, ultraviolet rays, which is why they need reliable protection.

As protection, a coating of materials that are immune to the above factors is used. At the same time, they must have sufficient attractiveness and be correlated with the systems with which the facade of the building is finished. In other words, the material of the slopes must be externally and technically combined with the material of the walls.

Slopes of plaster type

Windows can be related to the plane of the walls in different ways - either they are recessed inward and there are perpendicular slopes, or they are set in one plane. In the second case, only an overhead casing is required to protect the insulation, however, such a solution is implemented, basically, only during the construction of a new house, or the old windows were installed in the same way. Making a platband is much easier than a slope.

So, the first on our list will be plaster slopes. They can rightfully be called the classic version.

For such slopes, a sand-cement mixture is used, from which the outline of the window opening is completely formed. Today, this method is not as popular as it used to be, but many still consider it the most reliable and durable solution.

They are used in the event that the walls of the facade of the building are either completely plastered, or an architectural element is formed from the solution, which will externally be in harmony with the material of the walls.

The advantages of such slopes are the availability of materials and a fairly simple manufacturing technology, such a finish is weather resistant, looks simple but neat.

An experienced craftsman will make a quality slope within a few hours, if we are talking about a simple rectangular shape. Complex compositions with non-standard geometry can be very time consuming. It is almost impossible to do this yourself without experience and templates.

Cement plaster requires a certain time to dry, which will not allow you to immediately decorate the building. It is also worth considering that such work is dirty, so you should be careful.

Interesting to know! For work, you can use any plaster mixture, including decorative ones, for example, bark beetle. It all depends on the design approach.

Prices for various types of decorative plaster

Decorative plaster

How to make a plaster slope

Now let's look at what is required for such work, and in what sequence it is performed. We prepare the following tool:

1. Container for mixing plaster mixture.
2. Electric kneading tool - mixer, electric drill, perforator.
3. A set of spatulas for applying the mixture, an angle trowel, as well as a trowel for applying plaster.
4. Tools for removing the evenness of the slope - a plumb line, a bubble building level, a laser axis builder.
5. Wide brush with soft bristles.
6. Plaster grater.

From the materials we acquire the following:

1. Ready dry plaster mix or cement with sand, if you decide to save some money. The slopes do not take a lot of material, so it is better to buy it ready-made, since the factory composition contains plasticizers in the right proportions, which adds elasticity to the solution - in general, makes working with it more comfortable.
2. Putty mix. Compositions for outdoor work are used, including decorative plaster, applied only as a finishing layer.
3. Deep penetration primer for outdoor use, which will reduce the water absorption of the base and strengthen it.
4. Fiberglass mesh for reinforcing slopes. This material is inexpensive, but significantly strengthens the concrete layers, so do not neglect it.

When choosing a ready-made solution, we advise you to pay attention to the additional properties of the material. Due to the use of certain additives, the compositions can compare favorably with the classic sand-cement mixture. For example, heat-insulating plaster will additionally insulate your window. It consists of foam glass granules, perlite, vermiculite, which gives similar properties. In addition, the material is moisture resistant. Often used and fiberglass for additional reinforcement.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how slopes are plastered. In fact, the technology includes only two stages - setting up beacons and working with the mixture. If everything is unambiguous with the second moment, then the first has many options for execution. Today we will analyze a modern way that will help to do everything qualitatively even for a beginner who has not encountered this before.

Table 1. Plastering slopes.

Photo, steps	Description
	First, the base must be cleaned of dirt and dust. This is done with a regular brush. Next, a layer of soil is applied, which needs to dry well. Drying time is indicated on the jar with the composition. This stage is mandatory, because due to low adhesion, the plaster may fall off over time.
	Installing this element is rightfully considered the most difficult, but not the option that we will offer you. Before you is a special beacon profile for slopes with a reinforced mesh and an adhesive base. It is inexpensive, but saves a lot of your time and nerves. Installation takes place in the following order: 1. From the edge of the frame, an indent is made exactly to the width of the profile. You can navigate right along the edge, but we advise you to put additional level marks so that you do not have to tear off the glued profile during a misfire, and the window itself may not be accurate. 2. Remove the protective tape from the back to release the adhesive backing. 3. The profile is glued on the marks. Attention! If your slope is very wide, build up the fiberglass mesh using a separate skein.
	The second beacon can also be done in different ways. Let's take a specific example in which the master uses a metal rule and even cuts of plywood sheets. He fixes the rule as follows: 1. Two holes are drilled in the wall at a certain height, into which plastic dowels are inserted. 2. Then homemade clamps are installed, as in the photo, consisting of a platform and a short support on one side. The platform has a slot for a self-tapping screw so that you can adjust the height. 3. A rule is set under the free end of the clamp, it is set clearly in level, after which the screws are tightened for secure fixation.
	Beacons on the side walls are much easier to set up. The photo shows another option. Plywood was used, in which cuts were made to enable quick adjustment of the position of the element. It is also attached to dowels. All external beacons are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the window frame along the internal beacon. The undoubted convenience of such a solution is the speed of installation (no need to wait for the mixtures to dry under the beacons) and the possibility of prompt adjustment of the position in case of mistakes.
	Next, the plaster mixture is mixed. It must be thrown inside the slope so that it adheres securely to the base. Attention! In no case is it allowed to spread the solution, only throwing it on. If desired, the plaster can be further strengthened. To do this, dowel-screws are twisted into the base and do not reach the end. The protruding hat will significantly strengthen the structure of the slope. 1. The applied mixture is pulled with a hard spatula along the beacons. You can use any flat and durable rail. 2. We achieve perfect evenness of the surface. 3. After a while, the plaster must be rubbed off. 4. The outer beacon is removed after the slope has dried. Advice! To avoid the solution sticking to plywood, the latter can be coated with used oil or covered with a plastic bag. This measure will further increase the service life of the device.

Deep penetration primer prices

Deep penetration primer

Video - Do-it-yourself slopes: beacons for plaster

Frame type slopes

So, if the plaster is a continuous coating of the slope, then there is also a frame type, when there is an empty space inside that can be additionally insulated. The choice of material for such solutions directly depends on the type of building sheathing. Slopes can be made of - plastic, wooden lining, vinyl or metal siding, near-window profile, metal cassette element. The installation of these materials is almost identical, so we did not separate them.

View the following photos for similar slopes.

Each of the listed materials has its own set of characteristics, however, none of them provides the window system with additional thermal protection, like special compositions of plaster mixtures. However, there are methods for warming such slopes: the internal space is filled with polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

Installation takes place as follows:

1. A frame is exposed, which can be external and internal, or only external. In the first case, a belt is attached from a rail or a metal profile near the window frame and the same along the outer perimeter of the slope. In the second - only the outer element - the inner one is replaced by a starting profile, which is attached directly to the frame. The last solution is suitable for plastic and thin lining.
2. All elements of the frame are set clearly in level, as they completely determine the geometry of the future slope.
3. They are attached in different ways, depending on the material. Most often, anchors and metal suspensions are used as fasteners.
4. The finishing material is installed according to the scheme for attaching a specific material. For example, wooden lining can be held by nails and self-tapping screws directly or through metal brackets - kleimers, and siding is held by self-tapping screws and a special mounting profile.
5. The outer corner of the slope is closed with a decorative element. Usually these are false corners, examples of which you could see in the photographs shown above.

It is much easier to make a frame slope than a plaster one, while in 90% of cases it does not need to be further processed. The product begins its service life immediately after installation. Everything would be great, but not every material will last a long time. Painted elements burn out in the sun over time, the tree can rot and change its color. You can repeat the coloring, but it will not look like the factory one, and the slopes will definitely lose their attractiveness. But plaster surfaces can be updated an unlimited number of times.

Prices for various types of slopes for windows

slope panel

Video - Slope of plastic panels

Decorative elements for window framing

Agree, you won’t surprise anyone with ordinary slopes today. How then can you improve the appearance of your home? For these purposes, various elements and techniques are used that can be combined with the types of slopes described earlier.

1. You can frame windows polyurethane pads. They are installed on glue, so you need to provide an even base with good adhesion. They are also suitable for brick walls.

2. Smooth plastered slopes will serve as an excellent basis for finishing with various decorative materials. The photo shows a window decoration option from the outside. decorative artificial stone. Clinker and porcelain tiles will also look beautiful.

3. extruded polystyrene foam also used for similar purposes. Such systems consist of corner elements and a straight profile. Everything is glued on. You can choose any color from the available ones, or paint the material yourself.

4. In cases of façade renovation with decorative brickwork, windows can be laid out separately with shaped products to give them an unusual beautiful look.

5. You can use the services of professional craftsmen who can create such masterpieces for a high price. stucco. These windows look very, beautiful, luxurious and rich.

6. Sandrik- This is a small architectural element above the window, which can be made of concrete, plaster, polyurethane and foam. The complexity of the installation of the part depends on the material.

7. Pyramidal or wedge-shaped decorative element made from the same materials. Mounted at the top of a vault or arch, above a window.

8. Under the window can be installed fake balusters.

It is worth noting that the definition of the necessary decorative elements is a rather complicated matter. If you overdo it, then instead of beauty you get wild pretentiousness and bad taste, so do not be afraid to use the advice of professionals. Of course, they take money for their services, but remember that you create the look of the house and will look at it for more than one year, and only positive emotions should appear from contemplation in you and the audience.

It is impossible to imagine a residential building without window openings. Their main function is to illuminate the interior in a natural way. They have a special impact on the psychological state of the person himself, imitating the presence of open space around him. This is also a part of the interior, which is constantly in sight, respectively, is subject to all the trends of changing fashion. Therefore, an important role is played not only by the appearance of the product itself, but also by the decoration of the window slopes inside and out.

The inner cladding allows you to decorate the opening, mask all the shortcomings of installation work, increase the durability of the installed structure, protect it from moisture, and help fix the insulation material. Typically, window installation companies can only complete the design with an internal window sill and an external tide. Slopes will have to be done independently or use the services of specialists.

Features and necessity of interior decoration

After replacing or installing windows, it becomes necessary to make slopes, which are an inclined plane between the window frame and the surface of the bearing wall. It is simply impossible to do without timely high-quality cladding. It performs a decorative and protective function. On the one hand, it helps to hide the seams, irregularities, mounting foam, on the other hand, it makes it possible to insulate the window, protects it from excessive moisture, and prevents noise from penetrating into the room.

If the opening is not lined in time, then over time, the mounting foam will lose its qualities, leaky seams will let excess moisture into the room, and warm air will not linger. Also, condensation will constantly form on the windows, fungus and mold will appear on the walls. It should be remembered that the foam layer does not tolerate sunlight, precipitation, temperature changes, mechanical stress very well.

Some people postpone the issue of finishing the slopes for a long time, and when they decide to complete it, to bring it to the end, they face unpleasant consequences resulting from the destruction of the mounting material. This situation can lead not only to certain difficulties, but also to unforeseen waste. Therefore, it is recommended that this type of work be done on time.

Materials and methods of finishing slopes

There is a wide variety of materials used for the design of slopes. Among the most common raw materials are: plaster, drywall, PVC panels, wood, metal, artificial and natural stone, and other building materials. Some of the listed types of finishes are sometimes covered on top with a decorative layer in the form of varnish, paint, wallpaper.

When choosing a suitable cladding, experts recommend giving preference to the same base that is used in the manufacture of the window frame. Homogeneous materials complement each other, make the structure a single whole, give it a finished look.

The slopes can be a continuation not of the window frame, but of the wall, in which case it is worth paying attention to its design. To make the right choice, you need to understand the existing types of raw materials, consider the advantages, installation methods. To do this, we will dwell in more detail on the various building materials that are used to perform installation work.

Drywall - material selection and installation technique

One of the most demanded materials, which is used for interior work. He is very malleable. With it, you can perform construction activities with your own hands. Many prefer it because of the significant advantages that are expressed:

• low cost;
• light weight;
• simple processing;
• flexibility;
• environmental friendliness;
• very flat surface.

But before you opt for drywall, you should consider its disadvantages:

• low strength, afraid of mechanical stress;
• fear of high humidity, if the protective layer is damaged, it may swell;
• over time, spots form on the surface, repair and painting is required.

For the design of slopes, a standard GKL sheet is not suitable. Depending on the type of premises, preference should be given to GKLV or GKLV. These are waterproof and fire-resistant options that tolerate moisture and elevated temperatures well. For additional protection of sheets, antiseptics, dyes, and varnishes are used.

Drywall can be installed in three ways:

1. On the crate. This method is used when the load-bearing wall has the same finish.
2. Fastening with an L-shaped corner.
3. Fastening directly to the slope. For fixing use glue, mounting foam.

measurements

Starting facing the slopes, they initially carry out preparatory work. To do this, remove the old finishing material, clean the surface of dirt and dust, eliminate small defects, chips, damage, close up with putty. The resulting plane is treated with moisture-resistant substances, antiseptics. After completing these steps, proceed to the measurements.

First, it is necessary to determine the slope angle relative to the window, taking into account the crate, if any, and set the position of its edge on the window structure. Then, using a tape measure, measure its length, taking into account other slopes adjacent from both sides. After that, its width is set to the plane of the wall, the depth, which is calculated from the line of the inner edge to the frame.

When taking measurements, it is worth considering the fact that the slope should not be an obstacle to opening the doors, not interfere with access to fittings.

Step by step installation

The step-by-step workflow is as follows:

1. Lathing installation. For these purposes, you can use wooden planks or a profile, which are cut to the size of the opening, installed along its perimeter.
2. A mineral wool insulation is placed in the frame.
3. Based on the measurements made, the corresponding pieces are cut out of the drywall.
4. The resulting sheets are fixed to the profile or rails with the help of self-tapping screws.
5. Excess, protruding parts are cut off.
6. Cracks and voids are treated with a sealant.
7. Next, the surface is primed and puttied, after which a layer of paint is applied.

Plastering

The old method of finishing internal slopes, proven over the years. Many decide to use it due to its cheapness, simplicity, and a large selection of modern mixtures. With the help of interior decorative plaster, you can make unusual, spectacular accents on windows, finish any surface.

Mixtures can consist of various fillers and fractions - wood fibers, stone chips and others. Thanks to unusual granules, an interesting textured surface, a kind of pattern, is created. Finishing material has the following characteristics:

• Fits well on any base (wood, drywall, brick, concrete);
• Effectively masks irregularities, defects;
• Does not absorb odors;
• Restrains sound, noise streams;
• Non-flammable, safe, environmentally friendly mixture;
• Can be applied to a deformed base;
• When repairing, there is no need to clean off the entire finish.

Selection and preparation of the solution

A plaster mix can be simple or complex. The type of solution depends on the proportions of the main components and the presence of impurities for decoration. When self-manufacturing building materials, it is important to correctly calculate the content of the binder component and filler. You can find the "golden mean" of the degree of fat content by dipping a spatula into the solution. A quality mixture will cling to the spatula a little.

Brick, wooden slopes are plastered with a solution of slaked lime. Pour it with water, let stand and filter. Then the rest of the ingredients are added. This is the cheapest and most popular option for interior decoration. You can add cement or use it separately with sand.

Plaster based on gypsum dries quickly, remains strong for a long time, hardening occurs 5 minutes after application. You can increase the hardening time if you supplement the composition with wood glue. Gypsum can be used in its pure form, but only in dry rooms, not on the street.

The most durable and durable plaster will be based on cement. Preliminary setting occurs after 15 minutes, final hardening after 12 hours. To finish windows in a room with high humidity, latex glue (at least 20%) is added to the mixture.

Clay and sand are the most common fillers. For the preparation of plaster, it is better to use coarse-grained fractions - 3-4 mm. Before kneading, the materials must be sieved to prevent debris from entering.

PVC panels

Modern plastic panels are absolutely safe and can be safely used for interior decoration. Slopes made of plastic panels have a neat appearance, are easily cleaned of dirt, do not change color from sunlight. Practical material installs quickly, without dust, noise and many additional tools. The following factors can also be attributed to positive characteristics:

• PVC panels are made from the same material as the window frame. The window structure takes on a complete look;
• The ability to install a heater that will eliminate the appearance of condensate;
• The material is absolutely not sensitive to moisture;
• Can be used without repair and replacement for several decades;
• It tolerates low, high temperatures;
• A wide range of plastic products allows you to finish windows with both budget and luxury materials.

Plastic window slopes are usually installed immediately after the installation of the window unit, after waiting at least a day. During this time, the surface should be prepared - remove protrusions, dust and dry. If necessary, the wall can be treated with a solution of silicate glue, a primer for better adhesion.

The protruding mounting foam between the frame and the wall should be cut off with a knife so that it does not interfere with the mounting of the starting profile. It is also necessary to remove the shipping tape from the window profile, close up the internal seams. Deformed areas above the frame and on the sides should be leveled with plaster.

Lathing or installation of a guide profile

The next step is to set the start profile. U-shaped fastening allows you to fix the slope without the use of glue, silicone and other materials. You can screw it to a frame or a wooden bar. The horizontal top profile is fixed first, from wall to wall. They are fixed with self-tapping screws exactly along the edge with a step of 20 cm. Vertical side elements are mounted at a distance of 4-5 cm from the joints with the same step.

If it is decided to use guide bars, then first measure the length of the slope, cut out the products and fasten them with dowels to the putty along the contour of the entire opening. Before installation or during the process, all elements should be treated with anti-rotting compounds. A starting profile is screwed onto a wooden base.

The necessary rigidity of the structure will give a wooden crate. The bars are screwed with dowel-nails along the outer edge. Their ends should not reach the edge of the panel and the wall, a few centimeters should be left for the cover profile.

Panel mounting

The installation of PVC panels starts from the top of the slope, then they move to the walls. According to previously obtained measurements, the necessary elements are cut out. It is necessary to work without pressure, given the fragility of the material. You can make a straight cut with the help of a guide ruler.

The prepared PVC parts are inserted into the profile, the connection is checked. Separate from the walls and apply mounting foam to them or lay insulation. They are returned to the place, pressed down, fixed with self-tapping screws. If the abutment of the product is not enough, the voids are sealed with liquid plastic. In this way, the entire window opening is sheathed.

At the final stage, the ends of the panels are closed with a finishing profile. Start working from the top. Apply an F-profile and slap the panel along its entire length with the palm of your hand.

Stone artificial or natural

When decorating windows with stone, the main thing is to correctly match the width of the opening and the size of decorative products. Decorative elements should not make the window massive, their thickness should be a maximum of 2 cm. Artificial, natural stone is laid on a special glue, on a previously leveled surface.

Stone slopes, tiles - the most expensive option. They enhance the status of the room, making the window expressive and presentable. The material of increased strength is not deformable, has a long service life, and is easy to clean. It is laid out only in a horizontal position. If necessary, it can be cut with a hacksaw, a circular saw, depending on the composition and type.

After laying, the joints are grouted. A special epoxy, silicone mixture is applied to the joints and smoothed with a rubber spatula. Artificial bricks can be laid end-to-end without rubbing.

Wood

Wooden slopes will be a great addition to a wooden frame. You can achieve a better result if the finishing is carried out with one breed. The color palette, the pattern will completely match, which will make the opening more attractive. With the help of a natural finish, poorly formed seams, remnants of mounting foam, various gaps and cracks can be hidden.

In addition to a decorative purpose, natural wood slopes perform a number of important functions, the main of which is window insulation. Also, the frame prevents the penetration of cold air through the cracks, the appearance of condensate, the development of fungus. For interior decoration of windows, hardwoods (pine, oak, larch) are used. To extend the life of products made from natural material, they are varnished.

Laminate and parquet board

The material for finishing the slopes will look harmoniously against the background of wooden windows, especially if all the elements have the same color and texture. Laminate, parquet board - an excellent analogue of natural materials. A wide range of types and classes allows you to choose the material of suitable parameters for self-installation in an apartment.

Parquet board, siding is considered immediately as a finishing coating. The material is pasted over with plaster, putty. For a brick base, gypsum compositions are suitable, for concrete - cement.

Mistakes to Avoid

If problems arise after the installation of windows and slopes, air and moisture pass through the cracks, thereby nullifying the heat and sound insulation advantages of window structures, it means that the technology was violated during the work.

This can happen for two reasons: errors were made during the installation, the work was not completely completed from the street side. Let us dwell in more detail on possible flaws that should not be allowed:

• Any material chosen for cladding should go at least a little on the window frame.
• When installing plasterboard structures, the sheets are brought under the window profile, trying to simplify the work, which is unacceptable.
• Under the skin, in the place of contact with the window, voids remain - they should not be. It is better to place a heater made of mineral wool, polystyrene here.
• Due to incorrect measurements, the lining may not fit snugly against the slopes.
• Do not neglect the sealant, antiseptics, waterproofing substances, they prevent the occurrence of mold and mildew.
• It is not recommended to ennoble the slopes with a layer of plaster more than 2 cm thick, it may crack.

Selection and installation of window sills

The inner window sill serves to properly direct the flow of heat, protect the wall from pollution, flooding. The choice of such a detail is influenced by the technical characteristics of the window, its size, width, frame material. Wooden, stone window sills are suitable for a high-quality, solid opening from similar panels. You should not mount a natural element under a regular plastic window.

The choice of window sill is also influenced by the characteristics of the room. For the bathroom, kitchen, it is better to give preference to moisture-resistant materials (plastic, laminate, stone). It is better to decorate a bedroom, a living room with a more functional and warm option, for example, wood.

The process of installing a window sill requires accuracy and strict adherence to certain rules. Regardless of the material, products are mounted according to the general principle. We make the necessary measurements. Add 1-2 cm to deepen the element. We make grooves in the wall with a puncher and insert the window sill. We lay wooden wedges under it, align it with the spirit level.

Decorative window decoration with textiles

A beautifully designed window opening can act as an accent of the room, on which the interior of the room will largely depend. Such designs should not be hidden behind massive curtains, it is enough to use tulle, organza. If this option is not suitable, you can hang rolled curtains. They are attached to the frame, leaving all the details of the opening in sight.

When choosing the right type of curtains, you should consider the following points:

• Room area. For small rooms, it is better to use light blinds, roller blinds, for spacious ones, massive models of darker shades are suitable.
• Location relative to the cardinal points. If the windows face north, then they use pastel, beige, peach tones, to give coolness in the house - gray, blue.
• Illumination of the room. It is better to hang reflective textiles on windows located on the sunny side.
• Seasonality. In summer, you can use chintz, satin, in winter - velor, velvet.
• General design style. For example, for the direction of the country, the colors of the curtains should be combined with the color of the furniture, tablecloths, it is advisable to choose cotton or linen. In minimalism, Roman, Japanese curtains are used, which do not have bright colors.

Conclusion

When installing new windows, do not neglect the slopes. Comfortable conditions in the room, the safety of the window structure itself, as well as its aesthetic side depend on them. Having considered the possible options, everyone can choose the appropriate type of cladding, perform installation work on their own or seek help from specialists. The main thing is not to postpone this issue, to solve the problem immediately.