How can you insulate the walls inside. We insulate the walls in a private house from the inside with our own hands

Wall insulation from the inside: how and with what

If you look at the picture from the thermal imager, it becomes clear that the lion's share of heat loss from heated rooms occurs through the outer walls. The required level of resistance to heat transfer is obtained by using heaters, which, at the stage of building a house, are mounted inside multilayer building envelopes - between frame racks, on the facade, in the form of layered masonry, etc.

Many of our compatriots have fallen to live in buildings built in an era of cheap heating and low energy efficiency standards. This applies to both apartment buildings and houses in the private sector. In both cases, it is necessary to deal with additional thermal insulation, but this can not always be done from the “correct” street side. In private houses, there are difficulties with the insulation of basements and recessed "basement" floors. Behind the cold wall of the apartment there may be a staircase, a shaft, a temperature gap ... or the authorities simply may not allow facades to be insulated.

Why should you avoid insulating walls from the inside?

All written and unwritten rules state that in the outer walls, the "warmer" layers should be located closer to the street, and the "colder" layers closer to the room. Additional thermal insulation of the walls from the side of the rooms is not recommended, but ... is acceptable. The Code of Rules "Design of thermal protection of buildings" (SP 23-101-2004) says the following:

“It is not recommended to apply thermal insulation from the inside due to the possible accumulation of moisture in the thermal insulation layer, however, if such an application is necessary, the surface from the side of the room must have a continuous and durable vapor barrier layer.” Note: Solid and durable vapor barrier!

Indirect prohibiting factors are called: the loss of usable area, the laboriousness and high cost of this enterprise. However, the main problem of internal insulation lies in the subsequent incorrect operation of enclosing structures.

After installing insulating materials on the inside of the wall, we artificially move the line of demarcation between the cold outside and the energy generated by the heating system. Under such conditions, in winter, our insulation becomes a barrier to warm air, so the rest of the wall freezes quite quickly.

If the air is saturated to a certain level with water vapor, then dripping moisture in the form of condensate may appear on cold surfaces. It is this effect that we can observe when bad PVC windows “cry”. Condensation is possible provided that the temperature of the problematic surface corresponds to the air temperature in the room and the specific relative humidity. This dependence (as well as the process itself) is called the term "DEW POINT".

In the current Codes of Rules for the design of thermal insulation of houses, tables with exact numbers are displayed.

In our case, the cold surface is very close to the room. The dew point zone during the implementation of internal insulation usually falls directly between the load-bearing wall and the insulation. Therefore, very often, under the heat-insulating layer, the wall begins to get wet, as a result of which the structures are gradually destroyed; the heater, having been saturated with water, stops working; mold develops in the nutrient medium, fungi grow. The only option to avoid this would be maximum vapor barrier to keep moisture out of the chilled wall.

In the Manual (PZ-2000) to SNiP 3.03.01-87 "Design and installation of thermal insulation of enclosing structures of residential buildings" there is paragraph 7.2.2, which says:

“Insulation systems should be installed from the outer (cold) surface of the wall. Internal insulation of external walls is allowed to be carried out in separate apartments of multi-storey buildings, the safety of the facades of which is subject to special requirements of state authorities for architecture and urban planning. At the same time, constructive measures should be developed to prevent condensation at the junction of the insulating layers and the wall material, at the intersections of the insulating layer with floor slabs and internal transverse walls, as well as at the edges of openings, which should be confirmed by the calculation of temperature fields.

This quote is of particular interest because the developers pay attention to the need to protect not only the plane itself from moisture, but also the edges of the insulation, joints, junctions ...

Which method of thermal insulation to choose and which insulation to buy

Additional thermal insulation from the side of the premises can be performed in two ways:

• As on the facade, the method of bonded thermal insulation is sometimes used, when a dense insulation is glued to the base, drilled to the wall with dish-shaped dowels, then a reinforcing mesh is applied to the surface and everything is covered with a finishing protective and decorative layer on top (this should be a vapor-tight layer - polymer plaster, tiles, etc.).
• A wall frame is assembled next to the enclosing structure. Heaters are laid in the cavity of the resulting false wall.

The second option is more popular, because, despite the greater thickness of the finished cake, we get a wall that is more resistant to mechanical damage, we can use any finish, including painting with interior paints or wallpapering. Using insulation inside the wall frame, there is no need to rest on the highest density of heat-insulating materials, however, in any case, it should be PLATES (for example, ISOROC P-75). You can only work with materials that have been designed to operate in a vertical position without direct load on them. That is, roll models of mineral wool should be immediately excluded.

Basalt wool and fiberglass insulation are comfortable due to their resilience and elasticity. They are easily adjusted to size, hold well in place when fastened between racks by surprise. But since the insulation of the walls from the inside is associated with the possibility of moistening the array due to condensate, then fibrous cotton materials will not be the best option here. They have the ability to absorb water, which is why, after getting wet, they become heat-conducting. Against this background, more preferable are: polystyrene and EPPS (Penoplex-comfort).

The heat-insulating layer on the side of the room is exactly the place where the usual lack of slab polystyrenes turns into a plus for the user. EPPS, perhaps, is out of competition here.

• Firstly, extruded polystyrene foam has almost zero water absorption due to the closed pore structure.
• Secondly, XPS is a vapor-tight material. It by itself will not allow moisture to pass to the area where the "dew point" is located.
• Thirdly, XPS boards with a thickness of more than 30 mm can usually be purchased with a stepped edge, which helps to better seal the seams in the thermal insulation.
• Fourthly, extruded polystyrene foam shows some of the best numbers in terms of thermal conductivity among other heaters.

Another option that is especially worth considering is sprayed types of thermal insulation. Pressurized polyurethane foams create an insulating layer without seams, they fill irregularities well, are tightly fastened to the base and to adjacent structures, and seal (by themselves) adjunctions. If the sprayed insulation is not further damaged, then its pores will remain closed, and it will not let water vapor through, it will not be saturated with moisture.

The procedure for insulating walls from the inside

Foundation preparation

The load-bearing wall must be cleaned before starting work. After that, all possible cracks and through holes should be repaired. When insulating from the side of the room, it is recommended to treat the base with antifungal agents. For a house made of wood, the Nortex-Lux composition is well suited. With the same name, there is an antiseptic agent designed to treat concrete and stone walls of a different type.

Hanging the wall

Before starting the installation of the frame, it is necessary to determine possible irregularities on the load-bearing wall. Inside the room, this can be done using a long rule 2.5-3 meters long, into which bubble levels are integrated. If the wall is too long, then the drops are easy to find by pulling on the control cords. The cord is pulled along the examined base near the floor, near the ceiling and diagonally.

When identifying localized "protruding" zones, the indentation of the frame must be taken from them. In some cases, if the defect in the base is small, it is easier to knock it down than to go too far into the room with a false wall.

Mounting brackets

When insulating from the side of the room, the frames are assembled from galvanized "ceiling" profiles. In a wooden house, these can be dry edged bars with a section of 50x50 mm, which have undergone thorough antiseptic treatment. In both cases, perforated "straight suspension" brackets are used.

To install the brackets on the wall, you must first mark their location. Since the profiles will be spaced at intervals of 400 or 600 mm (a multiple of the width of the drywall boards), it is with such distances that the rows of fasteners along the axes will be located. In each vertical row, the distance between the U-shaped brackets should be about 600-750 mm.

Fixing direct suspensions on the wall is carried out by means of dowels "quick mounting" size 6x40 mm (for concrete), 6x60 or 6x80 - for brick. “Pawns” are attached to a wooden wall with stainless steel self-tapping screws with a large flat head from 45 mm long. There are two hardware for each bracket, they must pass through the side lugs.

Important! Installation of direct suspensions on the wall is recommended to be carried out through a thermally insulating gasket, then it will be possible to interrupt heat transfer through the metal and minimize cold bridges.

Insulation laying

Very often, thermal insulation is mounted after the assembly of the entire frame. That is, mineral wool, polystyrene or EPS is bursting between the racks, but there is no insulation behind the profiles. In this case, it is better to lose an extra 3-5 centimeters, but to reliably insulate the wall with a continuous layer. To do this, the insulation boards are "pricked" on the brackets and take root to the wall.

Obviously, some fixation of the insulating material will be required. For this, it is best to use the adhesive method. Among the different types of adhesives, polyurethane adhesive in cylinders will be the most preferable, but dry mixes mixed with water can also be used, designed for the bonded thermal insulation method.

Important! When installing the insulation on the wall, we recommend pressing it as much as possible in order to eliminate the gap through which moist air could circulate. For the same reason, it is better to apply glue on beacons, and with a notched trowel-comb. If glue from a cylinder is used, then it is desirable to make a continuous strip of it in the form of a closed contour along the perimeter of the plates.

The gaps between the foam or XPS boards are best foamed. It makes sense to seal the gaps near the passage of the brackets with foam, as well as the gaps at the junctions of the insulation to the floor, ceiling and other structures.

Vapor barrier installation

As you remember, our important task is to prevent moisture (in any of its manifestations) from penetrating to the dew point. Therefore, it is necessary to hang a vapor barrier construction sheet over the insulation, it can be either ordinary reinforced polyethylene, or more technologically advanced membranes or foil foamed polyethylene.

Cloths can be pre-fixed with double-sided tape. It does not matter how the strips will be located (vertically or horizontally), but they must be hung out with an overlap relative to each other by at least 100 mm.

Important! The vapor barrier must penetrate adjacent structures so that the insulation layer is reliably protected, including from the ends. The joints of the strips and the junction of the vapor barrier to other structures must be glued with waterproof construction tape.

Installation of frame profiles

Now profiles can be installed on top of the thermal insulation layer. In any case, we need a combination of CD and UD. First, guide profiles UD are fixed in place along the perimeter of the wall with dowels. Then, the extreme wall profiles are set in the brackets and strictly vertically fixed with LN 9 mm self-tapping screws.

When the extreme profiles of the CD are exposed, several control cords are pulled into the target with their front surfaces. These will be lighthouse cords, along which the rest of the subsystem profiles are set in turn.

If the height of the ceilings is greater than the height of the cladding panels, then it will be necessary to assemble jumpers to ensure reliable joining of drywall sheets on the short side. Jumpers are made from scraps of the CD profile, they are fixed in place with "single-level" brackets (these are the so-called "crabs" and the like).

Fixing drywall boards

It would be possible to use here materials such as a blockhouse, imitation of timber or lining. But plate materials are better suited to create tightness. When insulating the walls of a house / apartment from the inside - drywall is highly desirable to buy a moisture-resistant 12.5 mm thick. This is a green plate with GKLV marking

Eps bonding

The slabs are mounted on the frame according to the general rules for gypsum board systems. Fixation takes place with self-tapping screws 25 mm long for metal, with a traditional pitch between the screws and with a traditional offset from the edge of the plate.

Important! After installing all drywall sheets, the gaps between the cladding and other structures must be filled with water-resistant sealants. It can be a material based on silicone or acrylic.

There are no special requirements for puttying and finishing, only standard general construction requirements must be observed here. But if options are available, then it is better to give preference to vapor-permeable materials with better moisture resistance.

What else to pay attention to

It would not be superfluous to say that insulation must be carried out in a complex manner. In our case, when performing work from the side of the premises, it is recommended to insulate (with good vapor barrier) also floors and ceilings, at least in small areas near the problematic wall. If there is a window on the wall, then it is very important to make good thermal insulation of the slopes and the area around the window sill.

Sealing a wall insulated in this way (and there may be several in a room) sometimes causes a sharp increase in air humidity in a dwelling. Therefore, ventilation should be carefully considered. The solution is to install an exhaust fan on the outlet duct, install inlet valves on the wall or on the window, maintain the required gap under the interior door leafs, which will ensure normal air flow.

When living conditions in a country house cease to be comfortable, urgent action must be taken. This concerns primarily lowering the air temperature inside. If the building freezes, it will be necessary to carry out thermal insulation work.

Wall insulation from the inside is not very welcomed by modern professionals, but sometimes it is impossible to do this from the outside. In order to be satisfied with their own work and not doubt the durability of the thermal insulation of the house, novice builders need to buy high-quality material, prepare the building wisely, and also comply with a number of requirements during the installation process.

The need for insulation of the inner surface

If the design of a country house allows you to carry out thermal insulation work outside and inside, it is better to implement both methods. Alas, some circumstances force residents of private buildings to neglect external insulation. These include:

• location immediately behind the wall of another building or other object, the distance to which will not allow placing a layer of heat insulator;
• passing on or inside walls of energy cables and similar equipment that cannot be removed;
• the presence of an expansion joint between buildings behind the wall;
• the prohibition of the authorities to modify the facade (for example, an object of cultural heritage);
• acute reluctance of residents to change the appearance of the building.

If at least one of the conditions above takes place, you can limit yourself to insulating the walls inside.

Regulatory requirements for microclimate parameters

There is no consensus among people about what is considered comfortable conditions. However, referring to GOST 20494-96 (“Residential and public buildings. Indoor microclimate parameters”), residents will find the following prescribed characteristics:

• air temperature inside the house - from 20 to 22, floor - from 22 to 24, walls - from 16 to 18 degrees;
• the room should accumulate and save heat;
• air humidity varies from 50 to 60%;
• complete absence of drafts (wind speed in rooms is up to 0.2 m / s).

The presence of deviations from the parameters prescribed by GOST is a sufficient reason for carrying out insulation work from the inside.

Features of sheathing the inner surface of the house

The impossibility of external thermal insulation of the walls is in itself a disadvantage of the structure. To it you can add the following minuses of the skin inside:

• reduction of the useful area of ​​​​the room (in the case of floor and ceiling insulation - also volume);
• although the temperature gets higher, there is no accumulation of heat in the walls - they remain cold;
• the previous fact contributes to the formation of condensate, which causes dampness, mold, corrosion, and the appearance of microorganisms.

Fortunately, there are also advantages, and the main one is the normalization of the microclimate of the premises.

Distinctive features of the internal thermal insulation of the walls of a private house, regardless of the material of the latter, are:

1. The presence of two additional layers - hydro and vapor barrier. The first reduces the likelihood of moisture getting on the insulation from the outside, the second - from the inside (from the side of the rooms).
2. Rapid temperature change in the room when opening vents, windows, doors.
3. When using some heaters, the appearance of "cold bridges" is possible - sections of the walls where condensate with cold air is concentrated.
4. If possible, it is worth using environmentally friendly material for sheathing from the inside.
5. You can save on wall insulation, which cannot be said about outdoor work.
6. Performing work inside the house in comfortable conditions all year round - the process will not be affected by natural factors.
7. The presence of assistants is not necessary - all steps can be easily completed on your own.

Important requirements are imposed on the design at the preparatory stage of the lining inside. The key one is the maximum dryness of the walls.

Preferred materials for internal thermal insulation

The range of heaters presented in hardware stores is large. The following are quality materials that are best suited for interior cladding of houses.

The material is relatively cheap, has good thermal insulation characteristics. Suitable for all types of houses, except brick. The coefficient of thermal conductivity is not the highest - there are analogues with better performance. Other advantages of using polystyrene foam are:

• durability (30-50 years depending on the region where the house is located);
• lightness of the material (supplied in slabs that weigh a couple of hundred grams);
• ease of installation.

The cons are:

• susceptibility to fire;
• you can break or crumble the material if mishandled;
• poor vapor permeability;
• attraction for rodents;
• synthetic materials are used in the production.

A good alternative to the above insulation, which is extruded polystyrene foam. It is denser than polystyrene, it is allowed to insulate any surfaces of the house, but it is expensive. It is better for them to sheathe small areas from the inside of buildings - attic floors, caissons, basements.

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• minimal tendency to ignite;
• poorly absorbs water;
• high strength.

• high cost;
• poor vapor permeability.

Mineral wool

A modern material that is gaining popularity within the Russian market. Supplied in plates or rolls of various densities and thicknesses (from 2 to 10 cm). In terms of environmental friendliness, it is better than the two previously described heaters, suitable for any home, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (approximately equal to foam).

• low flammability;
• resistance to rodents, insects;
• excellent vapor and air permeability;
• additionally acts as a good sound insulator.

• absorbs moisture (if more than 2% of the surface of the plate is wet, you can safely replace the insulation);
• a vapor barrier is required (when lining the PPS from the inside, it is permissible to neglect the rule);
• the material shrinks, requiring replacement after 10-15 years;
• for installation, you will need to make a crate, which will steal a large internal volume of the house.

Ecowool

The most preferred material in terms of environmental safety. It consists of elastic granules that do not allow the insulation to shrink, which distinguishes it from mineral wool.

• does not ignite;
• durable (up to 50 years);
• ecological cleanliness;
• soundproofing is akin to mineral wool;
• low thermal conductivity.

• high price.

1. Ecowool (recommended first).
2. Mineral wool.
3. Styrofoam (extruded polystyrene foam).

Proponents of diversity and unusual solutions can look for insulation from the inside of the options listed below:

Eco-friendly, safe; at the same time they can be used as a heater and decorative trim. Alas, due to the thin layer they are ineffective, they are only suitable for the southern regions.

• Styrofoam wallpaper.

They have a thickness of 3 to 10 mm (more than cork), can cover wall defects, almost do not reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises, are applied like ordinary wallpaper, only with special glue. They do not smell, they are safe, they protect well from noise, they are moisture resistant - they protect walls from mold. The only downside is flammability.

• Isoplat.

An innovative material consisting of two layers - fiberboard with a thickness of 10 to 25 mm and pressed linen. It is mechanically strong, environmentally friendly, but the thermal conductivity is worse than that of the recommended heaters.

The material is obtained by drying wood chips, later mixed with a binder and pressed. The protective layer better warns against rodents, insects, as well as mold or fungus. But it is not suitable for insulation from the inside of most private houses, since it begins to deteriorate at a humidity of more than 35%.

In order to achieve the normalization of the microclimate in the house due to the insulation of the walls, it is better to tip the scales in favor of proven materials - mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene. You should not think that the impossibility of external thermal insulation will reduce the heat in the premises, because a competent choice of material and compliance with the installation technology will certainly lead to the desired result.

How to competently solve the issue of insulation of a building, house or cottage after the completion of the main construction work? Any experienced builder will unequivocally answer: not only external insulation is necessary, especially if the building is made of brick and other materials that conduct heat well.

Causes of moisture

In the winter season, with the onset of frost, the walls of our houses freeze through. In a correctly calculated wall thickness, the transition point from minus to plus temperature, it is called the dew point, is located inside the wall and condensation does not occur. That is why they used to build houses with stone walls no less than 80 cm thick. Today, with the use of the latest construction technologies and innovative materials, it has become possible to build houses with thinner walls, but such buildings require the installation of additional heat-insulating structures.

The question arises: from the outside or the inside to conduct insulation?

The issue of exterior finishes disappears when the house is made of timber and does not require exterior finishing. If the house is made of stone, then it will be more competent to make insulation from the facade, but this does not exclude the carrying out of internal work.

There is the only exception - the internal insulation of the walls of an apartment in a multi-storey residential building, where the use of any type of heat-insulating material will not give tangible results.

How to insulate your home

If it is decided to abandon the facade insulation, then how to insulate the house from the inside to avoid condensation? After all, it is he who leads to the appearance of fungal formations, the destruction of thermal insulation materials. Each owner needs the entire thermal insulation internal structure to work efficiently and functionally. There are several widely used home insulation technologies.

Insulation of a log or timber house has its own characteristics. The thermal conductivity of wood in comparison with stone is, of course, lower, and wood retains heat well, however, when walls are insulated from the inside, moisture can form between the inner surface of the wall and the surface of the insulation. To avoid this, an air gap is made to blow wood and insulation. Technically, the problem is solved using a frame crate made of wood with a frame width equal to the width of the insulation boards. The crate is mounted at a distance of several centimeters from the wall to provide a ventilation effect.

From the side of the wall, a windproof membrane is pulled onto the frame, which performs a dual function: it protects the air gap from overlapping with the fibers of the heat insulator and limits excess air movement inside the insulation. In this case, it is more expedient to insulate the walls from the inside with natural environmentally friendly materials. There is a wide selection of mineral wool insulation, in Russia the most famous manufacturers are: URSA, ISOVER, ROCKWOOL, KNAUF and others. From the side of the room, the insulation is hermetically covered with a material that provides protection against the penetration of steam into the inner layers of the heat insulator.

The technology for insulating concrete or stone walls is similar to the previous design, but in this case it is necessary to provide for a larger number of technological openings for air to enter. Much more condensate will appear than in the first case, and the air gap must be wide enough for intensive ventilation. In fact, it is necessary to build an additional internal wall.

When carrying out thermal insulation work indoors, it must be understood that natural physical processes will affect the entire structure. This work requires a competent professional solution.

As a result, several main conclusions can be drawn:

• When installing thermal insulation on the inside of the walls of the house, the dew point inevitably moves to the inner surface of the wall. This will happen even with correct calculations of the thickness of the heat insulator. As a result, the service life of the entire thermal insulation structure is reduced.
• The thermal insulation structure must necessarily include a vapor barrier membrane. As a result, it is necessary to solve the issue of normalizing the humidity in the room (increase in the cost of heating and ventilation systems).
• Insulation inside the room reduces the volume of rooms.
• Since the entire structure is installed inside the house, the issue of human safety becomes the most important. It is important to understand which of the heaters best meets this requirement. Materials from natural raw materials are the best choice. Soft slabs or mineral wool rolls, which have high heat-shielding and sound-proofing properties, are well suited. All materials with good vapor permeability and ability to absorb moisture will lose their functional properties over time.
• The use of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene, as materials that practically do not absorb moisture, is more beneficial. In this case, it is necessary to consider the hermetic fit of the plates to each other. The main disadvantage of this option is a completely synthetic material, and they will have to breathe.
• Today there is a lot of talk about polyurethane foam, which hardens when applied to the surface, and, of course, gives a strong adhesion to the inner surface of the wall. Condensation does not form, but for the work it is necessary to construct technological formwork. This process is quite long, while the wall does not breathe.

There are many wall heaters, there are plenty to choose from, but the decision must be made correctly. People will live, work and breathe in this house.

Video tutorial on interior insulation

You can insulate the house from the inside yourself. To do this, it is better to familiarize yourself with the video material:

If you have to pay round sums for heating or the apartment is cold and damp, then there is a clear problem that the heat does not linger inside. The most logical thing would be to insulate the wall in the apartment from the inside, and for a simple layman, this is associated with complex installation work. However, it is not always necessary to use any special tools.

Pros and cons of insulating an apartment from the inside

Professional builders do not get tired of arguing about how to insulate the walls in the apartment. Some of them argue that insulating from the inside is a waste of money, while others claim that thermal insulation material brings good results. However, both agree that wall insulation from the outside is much more effective than from the inside.

But how to insulate a wall in an apartment for those who live in high-rise buildings, where thin walls freeze through in winter? After all, it is often simply impossible to insulate such a house from the outside. In addition, it is impossible to insulate houses in the historical center, when the apartment is close to the elevator shaft, and many more reasons are contraindications to this type of insulation. Therefore, there is only one option, the pros and cons of which have long been known.

The disadvantages of insulation inside most often include:

• on average, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe apartment is reduced by 0.5–2 square meters;
• at the time of work it is necessary to completely vacate the premises;
• it is necessary to provide for many additional measures: ventilation, protection of the heat insulator, etc.;
• the formation of fungus or mold.

The advantages of this type of insulation are:

• low cost;
• the ability to work at any time of the year;
• accessibility (you can install it yourself).

The good news is that if the insulation is carried out in compliance with all the rules, then most of the stated disadvantages can be avoided.

How to avoid damage to interior finishes?

Before you start dealing with the consequences of improper insulation, you should understand the causes of the problems.

At a certain temperature, water vapor condenses from the air. This temperature is called the "construction dew point", at which condensation occurs on cool surfaces i.e. water droplets.

According to the norms, the air temperature in residential premises should be at least 22 and not more than 27 degrees Celsius. In this case, the dew point is 10.7 degrees Celsius. Simply put, if you insulate the walls and they reach the dew point, condensation will definitely appear. Where exactly it will be depends on many factors. For example, if it is cold outside, it will move further away from the facade.

Condensation negates the effect of insulation, moreover, mold appears on the walls. So, task number one is dry walls. To achieve this is quite realistic, the main thing is to follow a few rules:

• for warming choose the highest quality materials, when connecting the vapor barrier film, seal the joints;
• pay attention to the vapor permeability of the insulation, the lower it is, the better. If the vapor permeability of the wall is higher than that of the heat insulator, then the steam will go outside;
• when gluing the insulation, it should not lag behind the wall. To do this, it is best to use a comb;
• put valves on the windows to reduce the humidity in the room;
• calculate the thickness of the insulating layer, taking into account the characteristics of the climatic zone. The insulation should not be thinner than this value;
• before warming treat the walls with a special compound which prevents mold and mildew. Start warming after the walls are dry.

It is worth considering that where the floors are connected to load-bearing walls, it is impossible to carry out insulation. A heat insulator is applied to these places with the help of a vapor barrier, then they are masked with the help of false columns, etc.

How to choose a heater?

Every year more and more new building materials are produced. Some of them are suitable for warming apartments, but there are three proven heaters, the pros and cons of which are well studied:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam.

Many of us have heard that it is possible to insulate an apartment from the inside with mineral wool. No wonder, after all this material is quite easy to work with: it is enough to lay it inside the drywall construction. Most often, the work is done quickly, the material is chosen the cheapest, the vapor barrier is neglected. The result is the same: it does more harm than good. Ordinary mineral wool in rolls has a very low coefficient of thermal resistance.

The positive thing is that she seems to "breathe". On the other hand, moisture penetrates through the wool fibers to the dew point, and then it is absorbed into the material. Of course, there are more expensive and high-quality options, but if you insulate with ordinary cheap mineral wool, then it does not guarantee dryness.

To reduce the risk of moisture ingress, don't skimp on insulation and glue with the highest quality glue. If smudges appear on the walls, or, even more so, a fungus, then all the insulation work will have to be redone.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is considered one of the best insulation for walls from the inside. It is increasingly used both in Russia and abroad. This material has all the necessary properties to displace mineral wool and become the most popular insulation of all.

Expanded polystyrene does not conduct heat well and does not absorb moisture, while it has low vapor permeability. It easily copes with loads, can survive strong compressions and tears, while being very light and pliable: it can even be cut with a knife. Therefore, the installation of insulation will not be a problem.

Respectively, a thin layer of expanded polystyrene will solve the problem with insulation and will not allow moisture to reach the dew point. The only negative is that it does not protect against noise and is destroyed at temperatures above 80 degrees Celsius. The latter, as a rule, is irrelevant for the weather conditions in Russia.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is the latest material that is designed to quickly and efficiently solve the problem of wall insulation from the inside. Moisture cannot penetrate the material, so it does not get wet. Moreover, it does not need to be glued, it is enough to spray on the wall. Thanks to this, seams and joints are not formed, even a room with curved corners will look perfect.

Of course, the material has its downsides. Most often, the first thing consumers pay attention to is the price. Polyurethane foam - rather expensive heater Moreover, installation work is also expensive. In addition, if it catches fire, it will smoke heavily and release various toxic substances. When exposed to UV, it quickly decomposes into products that can cause great harm to health in a few years.

Self-insulation of the wall from the inside

Since expanded polystyrene is an affordable and high-quality material, it will be used as an example. Before you start insulating the walls, you need to prepare their surfaces. Depending on whether the walls are covered with something or not, you need to carry out a few simple steps.

If the walls are already pasted over, painted or covered with finishing materials, then you should:

• remove wallpaper or paint;
• primed;
• wait until the primer dries;
• putty;
• let the putty dry.

If the walls are not covered with anything, then:

• primed;
• level the wall with plaster;
• putty;
• let the putty dry.

It is possible to insulate the walls only after the putty is completely dry. It usually takes from 2 to 6 hours, the exact time is indicated on the package. Then you should knead the glue, there is always an instruction on the mixture. Then take a notched trowel and apply glue to the styrofoam, make sure the layer is even. Install the insulation in the desired position and check that there are no air pockets. Sealant is applied to the ends. Then, when all the sheets are ready, the glue should harden.

Now start applying the finish coat:

• apply a thin layer of construction mixture with a thickness of approximately 2-5mm;
• until the mixture has solidified attach reinforcing mesh; it should sink into the mixture, you can use a notched trowel. The mesh will protect the plastered walls from cracks;
• apply the solution and level the surface with a spatula;
• sand the wall every other day so that there are no bumps. There will be a lot of dust, you should take care of respiratory protection.

When installing, try to glue the sheets so as to avoid gaps. This will prevent moisture from penetrating the wall and prevent condensation from forming. If the gaps still remain, use the mounting film to blow them out.

After completing the work, do not forget to regularly ventilate the room. Warming may lead to poor ventilation conditions. which will be harmful to health. To maintain a healthy microclimate, ventilate the rooms daily. Such care will certainly give its results and the room will remain dry and warm.

Specialists in thermal insulation of houses agree that, if possible, it is better to insulate the outside. However, if this is not possible, you have to resort to internal wall insulation. In this case, you risk losing the useful area of ​​​​the apartment and reducing the life of the building due to dampness of the walls. Of course, the degree of risk depends on the choice of insulation materials and installation technology. We will talk about all this in detail in today's article.

The main problem of wall insulation from the inside is that the wall itself does not cease to be exposed to external atmospheric influences: frost, moisture, wind loads. When the insulation is on the inside of the wall, frost penetrates through its thickness and collides with the heat-insulating layer, and a conflict arises between two temperatures - cold street and warm home. As a result, condensation begins to form behind the insulation, and since it cannot evaporate anywhere, the porous material of the walls and insulation begins to absorb moisture. The wall from this is gradually destroyed, and the insulation loses its protective characteristics. You end up with a cold house with weakened walls. Brick walls suffer the most from this state of affairs.

To avoid such disastrous consequences, it is necessary to be able to choose the right heat-insulating material. It should be characterized by minimal vapor permeability, not be afraid of moisture, and during its installation there should be a minimum of butt joints (potential leaks and damage). Also, to prevent the accumulation of condensate, a small gap should be left between the wall and the insulation so that moisture can evaporate freely. Many people neglect this particular step, trying to press the thermal insulation against the wall as tightly as possible and save usable space, but this is not worth doing. In any case, you will sacrifice free space, and 5-10 cm will not change the situation much, but the house will stand for a couple of decades longer.

Warming methods and materials

The following materials do not fall under the above requirements for the choice of insulation: mineral wool in rolls, warm plaster, cork, plasterboard panels, liquid ceramics and other products that are not able to withstand moisture changes. Drywall and warm plaster can be used to finish the decorative finish of an insulated wall, but nothing more. To better navigate, remember one simple rule: if the material consists of fibers, can absorb moisture or actively passes steam, it is not suitable for internal insulation of the walls of the house.

Expanded polystyrene in this regard is very popular, and it is used to insulate walls not only inside, but also outside (facades). However, when laying polystyrene foam, a lot of joints and seams are formed, which accelerate the decrease in the tightness of thermal insulation.

Criteria for choosing insulation for walls:

1. Environmental friendliness - remember that you are going to insulate the house from the inside, so all materials used must be completely safe for health. When laying mineral wool, for example, it is imperative to wear protective gloves, a respirator and goggles so that the fibers do not harm the body. It is non-toxic, but requires careful handling and subsequent high-quality finishing. The material must be safe not only at the time of installation, but also after many years (do not emit toxins during aging).
2. Fire safety - insulation should not easily ignite or support combustion.
3. Low thermal conductivity - the lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat or coolness inside the house. The indicator is determined based on the square of the section, that is, the lower the thermal conductivity, the thinner the thermal insulation should be. Some mistakenly believe that the thicker the insulation, the better, but in reality you risk simply overpaying for more expensive material and at the same time taking up even more free space inside the house.
4. Moisture resistance - the insulation should absorb a minimum of moisture or not absorb it at all. In this regard, polystyrene occupies a winning position.
5. Resistance to deformation and mechanical stress - the material must be durable and not warp over time due to temperature changes or natural seasonal wall movements (expansion in summer and narrowing in winter).
6. Durability - the insulation should last as long as possible (10-15 years).

Despite the abundance of insulation materials on the market, only a few fully meet the above criteria. Below we will consider which of them are the most popular in private construction and talk about an effective way to insulate walls from the inside.

polyurethane foam for wall insulation

Foamed polyurethane is the leader in the field of insulation for interior and exterior walls, ceilings and even floors. Its popularity is due to its high moisture resistance, durability and quick installation. The only drawback of the material is the peculiarity of its application - for this, a special spraying technique is used. The polyurethane foam itself consists of several components that are mixed in a spray bottle, after which it is applied under high pressure to the surface to be insulated. Upon contact with oxygen, the material immediately foams and hardens, giving a monolithic and seamless heat-insulating layer. If you have ever worked with polyurethane foam, the principle of applying polyurethane foam should be clear to you.

In order for the polyurethane foam to properly set and form a sufficient thickness to protect the house from the cold, it must be applied to the pre-installed formwork. It is built of wood or metal and the sections are alternately filled with foamed insulation. If you are making a frame out of wood, all elements should be treated with an antiseptic, if made of metal - with an anti-corrosion compound. In this case, there are no seams in the insulation, but there is still a risk of depressurization - if the formwork elements are destroyed.

After the foam layer has hardened, it must be closed with a vapor barrier membrane, and then covered with drywall sheets. It is already becoming clear that each of the layers, starting with the formwork, ending with drywall and finishing, takes up a lot of space, so this method is not suitable for warming rooms with a modest quadrature. It is impossible to apply plaster or other finishing materials directly on top of the frozen polyurethane foam - firstly, the surface is uneven, and secondly, if the finish does not hold, it will not be very long.

For the installation of drywall, it will also be necessary to build a frame of metal profiles, and the profile can only be attached to adjacent walls, floors or ceilings, because the insulation will not withstand such a load. You can learn more about working with drywall in the article "". In this case, the dew point (the place where cold and warm air meet) will be in the thickness of the polyurethane foam itself or between it and the wall, and since the vapor permeability of the material is very low, condensation will not form.

Styrofoam for walls

If you decide to insulate the walls with ordinary polystyrene foam, which is sold in slabs, carefully study the technology for its installation. Expanded polystyrene is a close relative of ordinary foam, but unlike it, it has a greater density and strength. The surface of the boards is even and smooth, therefore, for their gluing, special mixtures are needed, designed specifically for expanded polystyrene. In this case, joints cannot be avoided, but the risk of cold bridges can be minimized if the insulation sheets are fitted as closely as possible to each other.

When choosing mixtures for the installation of expanded polystyrene, pay attention to the instructions for their use - some are intended only for gluing, others - only for UV protection, others are designed for woodworking, etc. Consider also the material the walls are made of.

An important point: If you worked with polystyrene or saw how professionals mount it, you should have remembered that the adhesive solution is applied to the plates in small cakes. In the case of internal insulation of the walls of the apartment, this option will not work, since air chambers will remain under the insulation - ideal condensate collectors. Over time, mold and fungi will inevitably develop there, which will damage both the wall and the interior.

In our case, the adhesive composition should be applied to the expanded polystyrene evenly, smearing it over the entire area of ​​the sheet. Before applying the mixture, it is necessary to walk over the surface with a spiked roller to slightly perforate it, thereby enhancing adhesion to the adhesive and the wall. This step should by no means be ignored, especially if you are working not with ordinary foam, but with polystyrene foam (a hard and dense material with a smooth surface).

Since the expanded polystyrene plates are perfectly even, in order to securely fix them, the insulated wall must also be perfectly even. This is the greatest difficulty - if the wall has significant differences and defects, preliminary leveling with plaster will be required. In this case, you need to use not the usual mineral (cement) mixture, but moisture-resistant compounds that are sold to work with the kitchen and bathroom.

Helpful Hint: Styrofoam can only be glued! It is not advisable to use metal anchors for fixing, since in this way you yourself create a depressurization of the heat-insulating layer. If after insulation you want to plaster the wall, then before installing the reinforcing stack, reinforce the surface with “T”-shaped profiles. Run them between the styrofoam panels and attach them to the floor and ceiling.

Mineral wool for walls

Although we said that it is undesirable to use mineral wool for wall insulation, this only applies to material produced in rolls. Mineral wool in plates is more resistant to moisture changes, and it is much easier to work with it. For the manufacture of the material, basalt rocks are used, which is why it is often called stone wool.

Mineral wool insulation is resistant to high temperatures, almost does not react to the effects of household chemicals. The main advantages of the material are excellent heat and sound insulation. However, it is worth making a reservation here - if the mineral wool becomes damp, it will immediately lose its protective properties. On sale there are plates, one side of which is covered with foil material, which not only increases the thermal insulation capacity, but also serves as additional protection against getting wet. Such plates are most suitable for internal insulation of external walls and ceilings, since they literally reflect the heat that tends to leave the house back.

A serious disadvantage of mineral wool is the presence of carcinogenic fractions in it. This is a non-environmental synthetic material that does not have the best effect on health. Of course, in the long run, but the fact remains that mineral wool emits formaldehyde that is hazardous to health.

Protective equipment must be put on before installing mineral wool: gloves, long-sleeved clothing, goggles and a respirator. Nearby should not be open food, drink, fire. If a piece of mineral wool gets on the skin, it will cause irritation and itching, so after work, the room should be carefully cleaned and ventilated.

Second wall for insulation

The construction of a second wall for insulation is a common way for houses, the square of which allows you to donate several tens of centimeters of area without much damage. The most reliable material for internal wall insulation in this case is the “native” material, that is, if the house is built of wood, then the second wall should be wooden, brick - brick, block - block, etc.

For a stone house, masonry of the second wall should be done. This technology is quite simple: you need to cover the walls along the inner perimeter of the house with burnt brick or stone with mandatory reinforcement. The second wall should be tied to the old one, and the space between them should be covered with sand or filled with cement-sand mortar. Experts recommend pouring a solution, since the sand will sag over time, and it is not possible to add it.

The advantages of this method:

1. You practically do not need to prepare the base - just clean it up a bit and restore it if necessary.
2. The dew point problem disappears - no need to worry about the wall getting damp.
3. The walls become stronger, and the house will stand several times longer.

Among the shortcomings, in addition to reducing the usable area by several meters, one can single out the fact that the second wall gives an additional load on the floor and foundation. Not every foundation is able to withstand such a mass.

If you want to build a second wall in a log house, it must be wooden. This is an old proven technology, when the walls of a log house are upholstered with boards from the inside, nailing them directly to logs or beams. However, it is better to mount the second wall on the crate, and fill the space between it and the old wall with sawdust, expanded clay, slag or other environmentally friendly insulation.

This design is homogeneous, so dew points cannot occur. It is almost not necessary to prepare the basis for it, except to treat all the wooden elements with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

wall insulation technology

In this chapter, we will talk about the technology of insulating interior walls using popular materials. We will not consider foamed polyurethane, since it requires special equipment and handling skills.

Mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool is cheaper than other heaters, and it is the easiest to install. To attach mineral wool boards, you need to create a frame. To do this, you will need rack metal profiles for drywall and staples for them.

Mounting technology:

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene, unlike mineral wool, is completely safe and does not require personal protection. The only thing that confuses many home owners is its flammability. Yes, Styrofoam and its derivatives burn and emit highly toxic smoke, but the ignition temperature is twice that of paper. At the same time, the foam plastic emits 5 times less heat than wood, so if a fire happens in the house, it is not because the foam is sewn into the wall.

To insulate the inner wall of a block house, extruded polystyrene foam up to 40 mm thick is used. Since this is a flat material, it can only be glued to a flat surface, so the wall must first be processed. For external insulation with polystyrene foam, umbrella anchors are used as additional fixation, but inside the house, the operational loads are not so serious, so only special glue is enough.

Helpful advice: If the walls are insulated only from the inside, leave a ventilation gap between the wall and the insulation. So the condensate will evaporate and will not be able to harm the wall material.

The technology of wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam:

Finally, we suggest watching a training video on the internal insulation of walls with your own hands: