Installation of plastic windows in false boxes. Sealing windows to protect against rain and noise

We just installed new double-glazed windows, which means that you will probably be interested in sealing the outer slopes of plastic windows. Let's try to figure out why you need to fix anything when installing a new double-glazed window and how to do this work yourself.

According to technological requirements, sealing of window slopes should be carried out immediately after the installation of a double-glazed window. What is really happening? Statistics show that seam sealing is delayed indefinitely.

As a result, the mounting foam that fills the space between the slope and the plastic frame comes into contact with air and is exposed to ultraviolet rays of high humidity and temperature changes.

Drawing a conclusion from the above, it can be assumed that such a negative impact on the foam will certainly lead to its gradual destruction. On average, after a couple of years you will notice that much more falls on the windows than before. After, you will surely feel that the heat-insulating qualities of seemingly newly installed double-glazed windows are not as high as in the first winter after installation.

Ways to seal slopes

If you want to ensure the long-term operation of PVC double-glazed windows, sealing the slopes of plastic windows can be ordered immediately during the installation process. This will be the optimal solution, since the foam will be as protected as possible from the very beginning. But ordering such a service will result in additional costs.

In order not to use the services of professionals and not to spend our money, we will try to cope with the task with our own hands.

Plastering with dry mixes

This method is popular due to a number of advantages, including:

Ease of work;
Short deadlines for project implementation;
Acceptable cost of the finished result;
Strength and durability of the finish.

Plastering technology consists of the following steps:

The protruding influxes of mounting foam are cut flush with the slope line;
The place to which the plaster solution will be applied is treated with a deep penetration primer;
As a plaster mixture, you can use finished factory products, for example, a mixture of CERESIT CM-11 or sand-cement compositions of your own preparation;
The mixture is thoroughly mixed in a clean bowl until a homogeneous thick consistency is formed;
Sealing of seams on side slopes and at low tide is carried out using a straight trowel;
More difficulties arise with sealing the seam in the upper part of the window, so that the mixture does not fall down, a mesh with a mesh size of 5 mm is attached;
Dried, but still damp slopes are leveled with a plastic or foam grater to optimal smoothness;
After complete drying, the slopes are primed and painted in the desired color.

Plastering with tile adhesive

For such plastering, frost-resistant glue is used. Despite the high cost of this material compared to a conventional cement-sand mixture, the result is more durable and durable.

The technology for sealing the seam in this case is the same as when plastering with a conventional mixture.

Please note: When making a mortar, glue is poured into water, and not vice versa.
This is a very important point that can affect the quality of the plaster.
When carrying out plastering work, be sure to use protective gloves, as the glue, getting on the skin, corrodes it.

Among the advantages of using tile adhesive, we note that the material sets quickly and forms a durable surface that is resistant to mechanical stress, which does not delaminate or crack for a long time.

Finishing with plastic tape

If plastic panels are used for the interior trim of the slopes, then it is customary to use a vapor barrier self-expanding plastic tape to finish the seam on the outside. The use of the tape is in demand in those climatic regions where the ambient temperature does not fall below -15 ºС.

The PSUL vapor barrier tape is glued to the outer surface of the frame and gradually expands upon contact with air. As a result, within 6 hours, in the warm season, the seam with foam is completely closed. The service life of the tape, as a rule, does not exceed 7 years, after which it is advisable to renew this material or replace it with another finish.

Today, many people have the opportunity to build a cottage or country house. Buildings are built from different materials: brick, concrete, wood (logs, timber). In such houses, a problem often arises: how to make a box for a window?

To answer this question, it is necessary to understand the existing methods and methods for the production of such work. The type of box installed for the window depends on such parameters of the constructed building as its shrinkage and the type of material used in the construction (log, glued laminated timber).

When building houses, there is no great pressure on the main foundation and the "draft" does not threaten the wooden building. This is one of the main advantages of wood structures, the weight of which is much less than brick and concrete counterparts.

But it is impossible to completely get rid of a small shrinkage of the house. This indicator depends on the type of material used. If a well-dried timber is used during construction, then shrinkage is minimal.

In cottages made of this profiled material, almost immediately after the completion of the walls and roof, you can start finishing and start installing windows. In such a building, the movement and shrinkage is almost imperceptible, about 1.15%, which absolutely does not affect the geometric parameters of the main materials used in the construction.

If a solid profiled timber (log) is used, then even when using dry material, shrinkage and movement of the building will reach a value of 2.6%.

If freshly cut logs are used in the construction, then the shrinkage of such a cottage can be 9-11%.

These processes stop 9-12 months after the completion of construction work, and during the operation of the building, its further movement can be about 5%. If we consider the material most used in the construction of a house, a cylindrical beam or a log with natural moisture, it turns out that when it is used, shrinkage and movement will reach 3.5%.

It should be understood how important these numbers are when installing windows. Note that for 1 meter of opening height, 1% shrinkage corresponds to 1 cm. This figure is used to determine the gap between the window frame and the lower part of the upper log of this opening.

What should be taken into account to make a box for a window?

Figure 1. Scheme of mounting a massive block.

Its assembly is carried out in order to separate the wall of the constructed house from the window opening and the window itself, so that shrinkage does not affect their geometry. The box is a necessary element to protect the window from distortion and destruction. If it is not done, then the opening will be skewed and the entire structure will collapse. In this case, damage to the load-bearing walls of the house is also possible.

The process of preparing and installing the box itself is quite complicated, so it is better to have it done by professionals. Self-activity in this matter is harmful - with unskilled calculation and self-installation of the window frame, the window almost always skews and destroys.

Consider the existing methods for doing this work. Window boxes are of the following types:

with end spike;
using a mortgage bar;
with a groove in the frame ("thorn-monolith").

Below, the technology for the production of works will be described and diagrams of all the above types of window boxes will be given.

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End spike application

When using this option, a spike (vertical ridge) is cut out at the ends of the opening. This is done before the box is installed when the house is built. The assembly of the product is carried out directly in the window opening. To do this, grooves are made on the sides of the box corresponding to the dimensions of the comb. Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

first you need to install the bottom board of the window sill;
close the spikes with a roll-type seal;
the side parts of the window box are put on it: first, one such board is installed vertically, and then the upper horizontal bar, then the second side part of the box is mounted.

The edges of the installed product, when viewed from the side of the window, can be either smooth (flat), or have a protrusion for a more dense installation of window blocks. The box will be thicker inside the house than outside. If a flat box was used, then after installing the window, it will be necessary to install slopes in order to hide the cracks formed along the edges.

After installing such a box, you will get a dense, vertically sliding connection, where the side parts of the window box itself will serve as guides for the movement of the timber (logs).

For such a system, the use of mounting foam or additional fasteners is not recommended. An exception can only be made for the window sill board, which must be rigidly fixed to the lower beam using a connection through a roll-type seal. When the box is ready, you can install a window block with a tide on it, and mount platbands on both sides of the structure. They are fixed with nails or screws.

This type of window box can be made in the form of a monolithic block. To do this, you can use the following types of material:

Solid wood from coniferous species, made without a quarter from the outside, having a natural moisture content, without polishing, not planed.
A profiled massive piece of the same wood species, well dried in a chamber, sanded and planed. Such an array is made with an outer quarter for mounting a window. When using it, you will not have to finish the slopes.

When preparing the opening and making a box in a log house, a spike is made on the vertical ends. The array is inserted onto it through the laid seal, stretched over the made comb. On the upper part, a “top” is mounted in a quarter, which is strengthened with nails or screws on the racks. Such a window box can be with a window sill. Often a threshold is made on it in the form of a closed contour around the perimeter of the window. The mounting scheme of the massive block is shown in fig. one.

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Use when installing a mortgage bar

This option is done as follows:

A vertical groove is selected along the entire length of the window opening (from its ends).
They take a bar with a section of 50 x 50 mm and a length less than the height of the opening and place it in the groove without the use of fasteners so that it does not rest against the upper crown during shrinkage. This bar plays the role of a guide that provides free vertical movement and excludes such horizontal displacement.
The window frame is fastened to the bar with screws, which must have a length insufficient to exit from the other side.
A roll-type seal is placed between the ends and the product.

Unlike the previous option, the window frame itself must be fully assembled in advance and mounted in the opening in finished form. Its thickness may be less than in the embodiment described above, since it does not have grooves.

After installing the box, a window is inserted into it, the frame of which is connected with screws to the installed box, and the gaps are filled with mounting foam (it cannot be used to fill the distance between the ends and the window box).

At the last stage of work, the installation of platbands (external and internal) is carried out. They should hide the gaps between the ends and the box. This installation option can be used for all types of wooden houses, except for buildings made of calibrated logs, the diameter of which exceeds 0.35 meters. As a material, unpolished and unplaned edged timber with natural moisture is usually used. After installing the windows, it is necessary to install and finish the slopes.

Nowadays, you will not surprise anyone - they have been mounted for a long time and everywhere. Meanwhile, consumers constantly complain about poor-quality work. It is logical to assume that unscrupulous installers are to blame. But in reality, everything is not so simple.

Recall how the technological chain is built in the window business. Manufacturers of PVC system profiles supply their products to processing companies that manufacture and install windows.

A small video commentary on the choice of a plastic window profile: Which PVC profile is better?

At the same time, there is no consensus on the technology of installing windows. The stumbling block turned out to be the assembly seam, or rather, the method of its execution.

Reference: mounting gap- the space between the surface of the wall opening and the box of the window (door) block. Assembly seam- an element of the junction, which is a combination of various insulating materials that are used to fill the mounting gap and have the specified characteristics. The definitions are taken from the current state standard GOST 30971-2002.

It would seem that there is regulatory documentation, which should be followed, - GOST 30971-2002 “Seams of mounting nodes adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General specifications” and GOST R 52749-2007 “Mounting window seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications". However, according to Federal Law No. 184-FZ "On Technical Regulation" dated December 27, 2002, GOSTs, and with them SNiPs and other technical regulations, have moved into the category of recommendatory literature. Only those norms that are directly related to safety are accepted for mandatory execution. And as a result, organizations involved in the installation of windows may, on quite legal grounds, not comply with the provisions of GOST 30971-2002 and GOST R 52749-2007. And if the client insists, he will be politely offered to pay double.

However, the situation is not hopeless. The fact is that GOSTs become mandatory if it is written in the contract or project (that is, these documents indicate that installation must be carried out according to current state standards). On the other hand, if an organization does not recognize GOSTs, it must still work according to some regulatory document that is accepted as mandatory within this organization. Another thing is if the client signs the contract without reading it. Unscrupulous companies only rely on this. If a conflict situation arises regarding poor-quality installation, the indignant client will be told something like this: “You yourself wanted all the windows in your house to be installed in one day, and gave your consent to all our actions!”.

Why do some window companies dislike the current (but, unfortunately, optional) regulations? An explanation is needed here. GOST 30971-2002 and GOST R 52749-2007 prescribe to fill the mounting seam with heat-insulating mounting foam, and to protect it from the weather, use a vapor-permeable self-expanding tape (PSUL). To fulfill these requirements, you need to prepare the opening - level it, and fix weak surfaces with a primer. But such preparation refers to general construction work, and window installers seem to have nothing to do with it. So they put windows in crooked openings. As a result, mounting gaps have different widths, or even a zigzag shape. It becomes problematic to close such, so to speak, cracks with tape. If PSUL cannot be used, the mounting joint is plastered with a vapor-permeable weather-resistant cement-based compound (and in winter with a quick-setting cement-polymer mixture). Another option: the mounting seam is closed from the outside with a vapor-permeable waterproofing tape, and then a flashing is installed (such products are included in the systems of all leading manufacturers of plastic windows).

Before ordering new windows, it is worth at least in general terms to study the features of their manufacture and installation. When communicating with employees of window companies, it is necessary to clarify all controversial issues related to ensuring the quality of installation work. And most importantly, you need to protect yourself legally when concluding a contract. Be sure to insist on the inclusion of items relating to the regulatory framework. Any statements that the contract is standard and cannot be rewritten already indirectly indicate that not everything is in order with the standards in the company.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation of windows in winter:

If the windows were installed incorrectly and after some time puddles appeared on the window sills, or the slopes became damp and moldy, or the sashes stopped opening, you must immediately file a claim, and if necessary, go to court. Effective support can be found in the Society for the Protection of Consumer Rights and expert organizations. Independent experts will figure out how technically justified are the regulatory documents (if these are not state standards), which were guided by the unlucky company that manufactured and installed the window. And besides, the consumer will receive an official conclusion about the violations committed during the installation of the window structure. In court, this argument can be decisive. By the way, the chances of winning the case and getting the money back are very high.

The junction of the window block to the wall opening also includes a part of the enclosing structure, in the opening of which the window is mounted. For example, if you put a product with an installation depth of a box of 58 mm in a brick wall opening with a thickness of 2.5 bricks (610 mm), then in winter, under certain conditions (high humidity in the room, slightly warm radiators, poor ventilation), there is a high probability of freezing walls in the field of the assembly seam. To prevent this from happening, you need to insulate the slopes. In this case, it is desirable to exclude the use of drywall. An air chamber is formed under it, in which condensate actively accumulates. Moisture penetrates the plasterboard finish and destroys it. It is better to use plastic slopes with insulating inserts or sandwich panels. At the same time, it is desirable to mount windows with a wide frame (120 mm) in brick walls, which provides an increase in temperature on the internal slopes. At the same time, the window block is moved inside the room, the window niche is reduced, which improves the convection of warm air near the window surface. In addition, the mounting seam expands, which means that its resistance to heat transfer increases.

A vapor barrier tape should be laid on the inside of the mounting joint; it will not allow vapors to penetrate into the thermal insulation foam and prevent the formation of condensate, and hence the moistening of the insulation.

You should also make sure that the installation of the window itself is done correctly and the window will not fall out under wind loads.

And after everything that you have already read and watched, let's move on to the very typical mistakes in installing plastic windows:

	A quarter of the opening in the brick wall is unevenly laid out. As a result, when installing the window, a “torn” gap was formed. The mounting foam was not protected in time. Under the influence of the sun, rain and snow, it gradually collapses.
	Here, the mounting foam was cut off, and the seam was lightly painted with sealant. It is clear that such sealing is of little use, and soon "foam insulation" will not be good.
	There is a disregard for the requirements of working with window acrylic sealant. Under external influence, he shrank and exfoliated. As a result, depressurization of the assembly seam occurred.
	There are no complaints about the window on the left. But a product was installed nearby that did not fit the size of the opening. Perhaps this is due to an incorrectly laid out quarter. True, this defect would have been noticed and taken into account in the manufacture of the window. Another explanation is that the owners purchased a finished window for the occasion. The gap was filled with styrofoam and foamed. At the same time, the area of the glazing of the opening was reduced. In addition, the mounting seams remained open. If they are not closed, the thermal insulation will be destroyed.
	And this is an example of “unheard of generosity of installers. They not only applied sealant to the assembly seam, but also “painted” the slopes at the same time. In other words, they disfigured an already not very aesthetic facade.
	With an impressive facade and an elegant window, a filling cord made of foamed polyethylene (vilatherm type) does not fit in any way. Such cheap insulation is made from a recycled product. The material is also used for thermal insulation of window openings. In this case, the vilaterm should be inside the mounting seam, and not protrude beyond its borders.
	Another example of a careless attitude to mounting foam, which, apparently, was left in the care of the owners. At the same time, the vertical seams are done decently. Even PSUL is glued.
	One has only to wonder how barbarously the installers disposed of these openings. The old windows were torn out, new ones were installed in their place without preparation. And no one took care of the seams and finishing of the slopes.
	The window opening was abandoned to the mercy of fate. Without proper finishing, the steel lintel rusted. the heat-insulating insert fell out of the foam, and the mounting foam almost collapsed.
	The builders "forgot" to put the casing. When the log cabin shrinks, the logs will put pressure on the frame, which can lead to difficult opening of the doors, deformation of the profile, and even destruction of double-glazed windows.
	. If you buy a low-quality product, then instead of a dense, finely porous filling, you get such a “fluff”. It is better not to take risks and buy foam from trusted brands in stores and supermarkets.
	And in this case, the insidious condensate “tried”. True, there are no windows here. Obviously, the owners decided to force things and started finishing the house in winter. In a waterlogged atmosphere, with insufficient ventilation and not yet debugged heating, condensation moisture accumulated on the cold slopes, which provoked the appearance of mold.
	During installation, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion of the PVC profile. This window is out of luck. Probably, the fasteners were placed too low (the norm is not lower than 15-18 cm from the inner corners of the box). The block was installed at a positive 20-degree temperature. The cold snap caused the plastic to shrink, and as a result, the profile broke.
	So that the metal tide does not rattle when it rains, it is laid on mounting foam. But without proper protection from the sun and atmospheric moisture, sound insulation will soon turn into dust.
	The window was placed not on special mounting wedges (and not even on wooden "blocks"), but directly on two layers of foam, "glued" with mounting foam. Under its own weight, the window block will sag. And the “defenseless” stand will collapse.
	The installers sealed the seams, but left a hole at the very low tide. Through it, water will penetrate into the seam, and then drain onto the slopes. Until the owners figure out what's wrong.
	The builders forgot to install steel tides, which provide effective removal of atmospheric precipitation. However, perhaps they acted on the orders of short-sighted owners or, even worse, an architect ignorant in such matters. The consequences were not slow to make themselves felt. Water, as you know, wears away stone. The decorative lining of the slopes has already cracked in some places. The double-glazed windows are not washed by warm air (standard radiators cannot be installed under the windows). As a result, they fog up even at positive temperatures.
	This opening was treated cruelly. Not only did they fill everything they could with a very strange liquid foam, they also didn’t remove the drips from the window frame and wall. And most importantly - the thermal insulation of the window opening is not provided.

One of the most vulnerable places in the house, where heat loss occurs most often, are windows. Of course, it is impossible to provide ideal heat and noise insulation in this place, but everyone can reduce the level of noise and heat loss to a minimum. The thing is that the cause of increased noise and heat loss are cracks in the windows. This applies not only to old wooden windows, but also to more modern metal-plastic ones. We will talk about how and with what to cover up the cracks in the windows in this article.

Causes of cracks in windows

As a wise man said, it is better to eliminate the cause of the disease than to constantly treat the consequences. So with the cracks in the windows should do the same. To do this, it is enough to understand the cause of their appearance and eliminate it once and for all.

Reason one: crooked installation

It's no secret that the level of professionalism of the master depends on how durable and reliable this or that design will be. It's the same with windows. Mistakes at the stage of window installation lead to the fact that it blows from under the window, and the noise from the street does not allow you to sleep.

It is almost impossible to control the quality of work. To do this, you need to have certain knowledge. But something can still be done. You just need to check how well all the gaps between the window frame and the opening are sealed. This can be done with a simple lighter, bringing its flame to the joints. You should also pay attention to the outside of the window. The places where the frame adjoins the opening must also be securely caulked or blown out with mounting foam, and their surface must be painted over or puttied. Same thing with the inside.

Reason two: seal wear

Unfortunately, eternal building materials do not yet exist, and cracks appear in the windows during operation. And in conjunction with installation errors, the period of their operation will only decrease.

Problematic are all the same places where the window frame fits to the opening. If for some reason the sealing materials were not painted or plastered, then under the influence of temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation, wind and precipitation, they quickly wear out. Mounting foam, even one that is intended for external work, sparkles, gradually exposing the voids between the window and the wall. Foam rubber or other sealant shrinks, crumbles and is blown out, thereby increasing the gap. To extend the life of the seal, it is enough to inspect every two to three years and maintain the integrity of the protective layer. It is best to do this in the spring, when it is already warm and there is no precipitation.

Reason three: wear of the frame and fittings

As well as a sealant, window frames and fittings have their own resource. Over time, the sashes begin to fit poorly to the frame, as a result of which cracks appear. This is especially true for wooden windows. A characteristic problem of wooden frames is the drying of wood, which leads to the appearance of cracks. But at metal-plastic windows, the rubber seal on the sashes most often fails.

It is impossible to avoid wear, but it is possible to extend the service life. It is enough to carry out regular seasonal inspection and maintenance of windows. This is primarily painting wooden windows, adjusting fittings so that they do not hang out.

How to fix cracks in windows

Despite the fact that today most of the windows are metal-plastic, after a certain time their owners face the problem of cracks in these ultra-modern and reliable windows. As for wooden windows, cracks are their inevitable companions. How to get rid of cracks, we will consider below.

How to remove the gaps between the frame and the wall

If, during installation, the master did not apply a protective layer to the foamed areas, then over time the foam will collapse, and gaps will inevitably appear. The gap between the window and the wall, the window and the window sill is quite common in such cases.

Removing them will require:

narrow spatula;
long screwdriver;
rags or ordinary rag;
newspaper or plastic wrap;
gloves.

From the materials you will need:

White Spirit;
mounting foam;
frost-resistant acrylic sealant, you can also use rubber-bitumen or polyurethane roofing sealant.

Important! Never use silicone sealant. Under the influence of temperatures, it rolls down and becomes unusable, thereby exposing the foamed cracks.

Having acquired everything necessary, we get to work. We start with preparation, namely, we eliminate the old foam. To do this, we do the following:

We unscrew 2 - 3 self-tapping screws at low tide, if any.
We begin to clean the gutter and substitution profile. We take a screwdriver and pick out the old brown foam. It crumbles quite easily, and the remains are blown out.
With the same screwdriver, we clean the foam at the joints of the walls and the window profile. For reliability, you can walk with a brush to remove its remnants.

Important! At this stage, you will need another person for safety net so that you do not accidentally fall out of the window.

Having finished with the preparation, we proceed directly to sealing the cracks. To do this, do the following:

We take a balloon with foam and blow it out all the joints and cracks. For processing narrow hard-to-reach slots, the nose of the feed tube can be flattened.

Without waiting for the foam to dry completely, we fix the ebb.
Let the foam dry for 24 hours.
Using a regular clerical knife, cut off the excess foam.

We take a bottle of sealant and cut off its nose at an angle so that it is more convenient to fill the seams with it at different angles.
Gradually squeezing out the sealant, apply it over the foam;

Important! At this stage, you will need another person for safety net so that you do not accidentally fall out of the window. Remove excess sealant on the spout with a rag soaked in white spirit. The same rag can be used to remove the remaining sealant from the frame.

Using a narrow spatula, level the sealant flush from the window towards the street and leave to dry.
After the sealant dries, it should be painted with ordinary alkyd paint to protect it from external influences.

Particular attention should be paid to the area under low tide. This is the most uncomfortable place, so some skill is required. But if everything is done correctly, then the gap between the window and the window sill will be eliminated once and for all.

How to remove the gaps between the frame and sashes

It has already been noted earlier that cracks in plastic windows can also appear due to wear of the rubber seal. Eliminating such gaps is quite simple - you need to get a new seal and do the following:

Carefully remove the old seal from the groove in the window frame.
It is advisable to wipe the grooves and clean them of possible dust and dirt.
Then we take a new seal and use a special tool or a small wooden spatula to fill it into the groove.

Important! To extend the life of the sealant, it must be treated once a year with a special silicone spray to protect it from drying out.

The described methods are suitable if you decide to eliminate cracks in wooden windows. But the following should be noted.

First, during the preparation phase, wooden windows are checked for damaged or rotten glazing beads. If any, they should be replaced.
Secondly, the seal between the frame and the sashes can be rubber or foam rubber. But unlike metal-plastic windows, the sealant is simply glued onto the frame.
Thirdly, foam rubber can be fixed between the frames as a sealant, but not glued.

The most reliable way to get rid of gaps in windows

Sealing gaps and protecting the seal from wear solve only part of the problem. Like it or not, from time to time you will have to update the protective layer. To avoid all this fuss, you need to create reliable protection. To do this, you will have to make external slopes.

Of the materials required:

plastic P-profiles 8 mm;
plastic panels;
mounting foam;
sealant;
primer;
White Spirit;
three wooden spacers for the entire height of the window opening and three for its width.

From the tool you will need:

mounting gun for sealant;
electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
tape measure, ruler and marker.

All work on the creation of external slopes are as follows:

We clean the walls from dirt and construction paint.
We take measurements of 3 slopes. First, we remove the size of the upper slope, then the side ones.

Important! Each slope is a trapezoid, so you should be careful when taking measurements.

We mark future slopes on plastic panels and carefully cut them to the required size.
For vertical panels, we put on a U-shaped profile on each side. Only for the top panel, the U-shaped profile is put on only on the outer and inner sides, and the sides remain empty.

Installation starts from the top slope. To do this, apply foam in a zigzag pattern on the rough side.
We install the upper slope in place and start spacers under it. We install two spacers at the edges, and one in the center.

Important! In order not to damage the plastic surface, pieces of foam rubber or a rag can be placed under the spacers. The side slopes should be installed after the foam on the upper slope has dried sufficiently and the spacers can be removed.

We take vertical slopes, apply mounting foam in a zigzag manner and install them in their places. Installing spacers.
After the foam has dried, we proceed to sealing the outer part of the slopes. To do this, apply sealant, level it. Let dry and paint with alkyd paint.

Important! When performing work on creating slopes, it is possible to accidentally stain the panels with sealant or mounting foam. Therefore, we use a rag moistened with white spirit to eliminate flaws.

Creating external slopes is somewhat more troublesome than simply sealing gaps. But as a result, you will get much more reliable protection for many years. In addition, it is better to get rid of the cracks in the windows in this way than to patch them up somehow with a simple mounting foam without a protective layer. Finally, I would like to note that the reliability of protecting the interior from drafts and dampness depends on how careful you are when performing work.

Successful installation of a window is only part of the installation process, since the quality of the sealing of the structure directly affects the concentration of heat inside the room and the optimal level of comfort. In addition to practical indicators, the external design of the window opening will noticeably change. The ability to properly close the windows after installation will save not only from the penetration of cold air from the street, but also eliminate the formation of fungi, mold and the unpleasant smell of dampness.

Preparation for outdoor termination

It is necessary to close the slopes both from the inside and from the outside in order to avoid the deplorable consequences of the flaw. Under the influence of environmental factors, the layer of polyurethane foam will undergo destruction and quickly lose its functionality. For this reason, external work is given priority and only after they are completed are they taken for interior decoration.

The finish serves as a protection for the mounting foam from destruction and an aesthetic appearance.

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to determine the materials that will become the basis of the slope. As external elements, plastic panels or the plaster method are often used.. Similar materials are used for interior work, where the choice is greatly expanded, including sandwich panels, wood or drywall.

After installing the window unit, all cracks and gaps are carefully sealed with foam

Before sealing the window, all empty spaces must be carefully filled with mounting foam.. After that, waterproofing materials are applied and the structure is allowed to dry and settle. Before proceeding with the termination work, put the installed structure in order and treat it with antifungal drugs that are used during installation.

Covering windows with plaster

The plastering method is widespread both among experienced professionals and non-professional craftsmen. The popularity of plaster finishing is explained by the low cost of consumables and good quality compared to other methods. There is also a small minus for this type of finish, which is a large time investment. To get really good results, the masters will have to sacrifice some amount of time. However, labor costs will turn into a successful seal.

Plastering of external slopes is carried out in 3 stages

By average standards, plaster work on external slopes will take from 2 to 3 days, since each of the applied layers of the mixture must dry well before applying the next. Be sure the first and second layers are made with a heat-insulating composition, which you can buy in every specialized store. The layer is very important for keeping the heat in the house, which is especially important for regions with low temperatures. The third layer - the last one - is applied with a conventional plaster mixture. As soon as the sealed slopes dry out, you can safely engage in grinding and painting the surface in the desired colors.

Close up with plastic

Finishing slopes with plastic materials will be an excellent option for achieving quick results of decent quality. Universal plastic will help close small defects or errors made during the installation of the structure. Plastic slopes can be freely bought in almost every hardware store with a wide selection of colors. True, they will cost more than plaster.

Plastic panels are installed quickly and easily

To install such a panel, first you need to fit it by cutting it to the desired size and attach it with mounting glue, and fill the joints with silicone sealant. Simple installation does not require knowledge of specialized skills, and the panels themselves have a long service life and do not require special care.

We close the internal slopes

Great attention should be paid to the interior decoration of windows, since not only the level of comfort and reliable protection from the external environment, but also the aesthetic component will depend on the quality of workmanship. Try to carry out the work with high accuracy so that the result pleases with a presentable appearance.

Application of drywall

This material is one of the most affordable price options that meets the requirements of environmental friendliness. It does an excellent job of keeping the heat inside the room and looks attractive from the outside. The disadvantage is the difficulty in installation, since the formed joints will have to be sealed especially carefully. Installed drywall must be puttied and painted. When choosing this material as a finish, give preference to moisture resistant species. Before fixing the sheets, it is desirable to make a layer of glass wool in order to increase thermal insulation properties.

Installation of drywall is a laborious and complex process.

Sandwich panels for embedding

Sandwich panels consist of two PVC sheets, the filling of which contains polyurethane foam with a high thermal insulation function. The material is characterized by an increased level of comfort with excellent heat retention.. Installation of sandwich panels is carried out using profiles, under which an isover is laid. The technology is in many ways reminiscent of the installation of plastic slopes and is simple to implement. The thickness of the structure is 10 mm, and the material itself has a long service life.

Sandwich panels have high thermal insulation properties

Plastic variant

The demand for plastic seals is explained by the harmonious execution due to the ability to choose the same color and structure of materials similar to the color scheme of the window opening. The panel is easily mounted on a special glue, but first the surface must be laid out with an isover. Upon completion of the work, the openings are carefully sealed with silicone sealant.

Technology for sealing windows with plastic slopes

Since plastic slopes are very popular due to the simplicity and availability of execution, we will take a closer look at the scope of work and the principle of installation of the structure.

The interior decoration of the window is most often performed with plastic panels.

First you need to remove the remnants of the mounting foam from the working surface, treat the openings with an antifungal agent and lay a layer of waterproofing. Pay attention to the closing of the window under the windowsill: the free space must be carefully filled with foam to prevent future blowing.

The space under the windowsill is carefully sealed with foam

The starting profile must be attached around the perimeter of the window frame, and a rail should be placed on the outside. This is an important mounting part on which the profiles for slopes are mounted.. This can be done with staples of a construction stapler. Be sure to check the thickness of the rail: if there are slight deviations, apply a thin lining.

Next, the panels must be placed between the prepared profiles. You need to start work on the upper side of the window box, moving to the lower ones. First, the plastic is introduced into the starting profile and well fixed, after which you can use the sealant.

Silicone sealant is used to seal joints

Before you start fixing the second side of the plastic, a layer of mineral wool is laid under it. Such a step will improve the function of sound and heat insulation. Having successfully attached the slopes along the top of the window, you can install the side panels in a similar way. At the end of the work, the joints and the connection strip with the window sill are covered with a thin layer of liquid plastic, and the excess is carefully removed.

Even an inexperienced master can close windows after installation, since the methods are easy to perform and do not require high labor costs. Ready-made structures made of plastic or using plaster will delight you with a neat appearance and reliability. It is only important to follow the technology and stock up on knowledge on how to correctly and efficiently seal the window.