Corner toilet at the cottage. How to build a toilet in the country: drawings, dimensions

The only building that you cannot do without in the garden is the toilet. It is very convenient when it is located inside the house, although this imposes restrictions on the number and content of outdoor work.

In order not to bring dirt into the house, doing land or construction work, they equip a separate toilet, which is used mainly in the warm season. However, year-round use is also possible, as is often the case, for example, in rural areas. In this case, additional insulation may be needed.

What should be the toilet?

The existing schemes of country closets are very diverse. During their construction, structures made of wood, metal, concrete, brick or plastic are used, which have different functionality and speed of construction. The most aesthetic are wooden toilets, the assembly of which is slower than metal-plastic, but faster than brick and concrete structures.

We can conditionally distinguish the following types of latrines:

• according to the type of sewage collector - with or without a hermetic cesspool. An alternative to the pit are "powder closets", in which feces are collected in a bucket or deeper container and crushed with sawdust or peat. In landscaped summer cottages, dry closets can be installed, although they are not yet widely distributed;
• by type of seat - the most comfortable toilets are equipped with a toilet, while in simpler designs a platform with a seat is built or a hole is simply made in the floor;

• according to the level of amenities - insulated or heated, with a dressing room, combined with a shower, etc. Warm toilets are very practical when visiting a summer house in the cold season. In the dressing room you can undress, which is important with a large amount of clothes during the autumn-winter work.

When arranging and planning a toilet, you should pay attention to the following factors:

• environmental safety - the building should not violate sanitary standards;
• structural strength - the toilet must be strong enough. In worn-out structures, it is not uncommon for people to fall into a cesspool;
• convenience - at the stage of building a summer cottage, you can be content with a toilet without a toilet, while at a capital cottage it is better to equip a more comfortable place.

A wooden toilet differs from its brick and concrete counterparts in its small mass and relative simplicity of design. There are capital and portable toilets made of wood. Portable structures are convenient for quickly changing the installation site, so as not to call for sewers to pump out the cesspool.

On capital summer cottages, this principle is not suitable - the toilet should be aesthetic, convenient and practical. Consider the main stages of the construction of a wooden toilet.

We choose a toilet drawing and determine the dimensions

Since the toilet will not be subjected to heavy loads, it should not be made too massive and durable. The building should only withstand gusts of strong winds, rain and winter precipitation. General drawings and diagrams of a wooden restroom are shown in the figures. You can find a significant number of sizes and shapes of wooden toilets on the net, but you should not follow them unconditionally. Most of the drawings are designed for the average person, therefore, during construction, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the people who will use the restroom.

The dimensions of the classic wooden toilet are small. The optimal dimensions are: 2.2 × 1 × 1.5 m (height × width × depth). Such a toilet is easily ventilated and gains heat when used in cold weather. Windows are left above the door or on the sides of the walls for lighting, and lamps are mounted for night visits from inside and outside.

If the dimensions of the owners of the cottage are large, then the width and depth of the toilet can be increased. The height of 2.2 m to the ceiling is most comfortable in natural and weak artificial lighting. The top of the roof is even higher, and the specified height only limits the interior space.

Location selection

The wind rose, the site plan and the location of other buildings will help determine the optimal location of the closet. For moral and ethical reasons, the toilet should not open in the direction of nearby neighbors (unless there is a solid fence or green hedge) and annoy smells when the wind direction changes.

Sanitary and hygienic standards allow you to put a toilet under the following conditions:

• the distance to capital buildings is at least 12 m, and to the shower (saunas, baths) - at least 8 m. The toilet can be combined in a shower cabin if wastewater is discharged into a separate pit;
• distance to pens with animals - 4 m or more, and to the fence - at least 1 m;
• the depth of groundwater must exceed 2.5 m (for a pit latrine). The location of the “powder-closet” and toilets with sealed barrels for sewage is not affected by the depth of groundwater.

The distance from water sources to the toilet should be at least 25 m. In most summer cottages, this requirement is practically impossible, so a well or well is located at the maximum distance up the slope. The toilet is equipped in a lowland so that it does not flood in a flood or during heavy rains.

When planning a toilet, it is imperative to provide for the possibility of periodically pumping out the cesspool. The length of a standard hose for pumping sewage is 7 m, of which 2-4 m falls on the pit. Therefore, the sewer truck must have access to the toilet at a distance of 3-5 m.

What will be required for construction?

Any wood material is suitable for building a toilet. Since one of the reasons for the use of wood is the desire to save money, expensive species should be used only for artistic purposes. A lining or block house will help to increase the aesthetics of the restroom. The use of conventional grooved boards will simplify their joining together and increase the final strength of the structure.

Mineral wool is suitable as a heater for walls, which fills two-layer piers. This material does not absorb odors well, and is also not subject to rotting and burning. Foamed heat-insulating materials are used somewhat less frequently.

Particular attention should be paid to wood finishing. If the building will be long-term, its processing should include:

• antiseptic. Since sewage is an attractive breeding ground for microorganisms and a source of high air humidity, it is desirable to combine antiseptics with waterproofing. The optimal materials for covering the lower part of the foundation wood are bituminous mastics, which give the tree stability and durability;
• treatment with varnish or paint to reduce exposure to moisture and slow down the aging process of wood under the action of atmospheric oxygen.

The size of the pit pit depends on the anticipated use of the toilet. For most families, a 1 m 3 pit will suffice, which needs to be cleaned every 3-4 years.

To make the use of the toilet more comfortable and increase the period of its effective operation, ventilation of the cesspool and the room itself should be provided. This is usually done using separate ventilation pipes, the upper cut of which should be 40-60 cm from the roof surface.

The optimal design of the toilet bowl installed in the country toilet should not have a bend (“knee”) for a water seal. Water is not supplied to country toilets, so the toilet will be more convenient if it is equipped with one straight guide for sewage. It is better to choose an inexpensive toilet seat so that it would not be a pity to throw it away at the end of the summer season. For winter visits to the country house, a removable insulated seat can be provided.

How not to miss the important - the main stages and materials for construction

The general stages of construction are cutting out the material and the phased assembly of the finished structure. Cutting can be carried out in advance and during the installation of wooden units. For the most convenient and fast work you will need:

• drill and drills;
• a jigsaw or a circular nozzle on a grinder for cutting wood (can be replaced with a regular hacksaw);
• screws or nails;

• scrap (for breaking hard ground);
• shovel with a short handle (for digging a hole);
• drill for soil (for making vertical recesses for corner posts);
• sledgehammer and hammer;
• building bubble level.

Necessary materials:

• concrete columns (can be replaced with metal ones);
• wooden beam (at least 50 mm thick);
• sheathing material;
• roofing material for roofing;
• cement;
• sand;
• dye;

To greatly simplify the work, a cesspool can be dug with a small excavator. It will be much easier to manually align its edges than to throw out cubic meters of soil with a shovel.

The main toilet units are built in the following sequence:

• cesspool - can be of various sizes, be concreted, contain a plastic barrel or a concrete ring;

• foundation - the most durable foundation is made from cement mortar, and the simplest structures are made entirely of wood. As corner supports, you can use concrete pillars, the bottom of which is impregnated with bitumen. They are deepened into the ground by 0.8-1 m and concreted in order to achieve maximum stability of the structure;
• floor and crate under the seat or toilet. The usual crate is made of a beam of 50 mm, and for capital structures its thickness increases to 100 mm. To increase the strength of the floor, the base of the toilet should be made away from the pit, leaving only part of the toilet with a seat above it;
• building frame. For the frame, metal welded corners or a thick beam are used. Cross connections are made of short bars, and the frame itself is a regularly shaped face. It is possible to connect bars and bars using metal corners or a groove-thorn fastening system;

• external cladding with wooden boards, block house or clapboard. Before finishing sheathing, the inter-wall gap can be filled with insulation;
• roof equipment that has a slope from the front of the toilet to the back (so that water does not flow under the door). The roof surface should protrude from the edges of the toilet by 15-25 cm, preventing moisture from entering under the base of the walls and into the cesspool. In the lower part of the toilet, it is recommended to fill in a concrete blind area up to 20 cm wide, covered with a layer of penetrating waterproofing;
• roof finish. To avoid leakage and decay, the roof should be covered with roofing felt or other sheet waterproofing material;
• interior and exterior wall decoration (painting or varnishing). The floor in the toilet can be made of wood or tiled. Such a hard and well-washable base will be more hygienic and durable. Before decorative finishing, it is advisable to treat the wood of the walls, floor and ceiling with a wood preservative (you should choose a preparation for residential buildings).

Equipping the closet with an additional hood located under the seat will reliably get rid of the smell in the room. The essence of the method is to install a high pipe that will draw air through the toilet (seat) and bring it out above the roof level. To implement this scheme, windows or slots should be provided for the inflow of fresh air.

You can decorate the toilet with an artistic drawing or simply with a high-quality applied layer of paint or varnish. Climbing plants planted around the restroom will make the room less visible.

Mistakes a Newbie Can Make

1. The location of the cesspool close to the groundwater level - can lead to the final deterioration of water sources in wells and wells.
2. Complete tightness of the structure (lack of fresh air inflow) - leads not only to the accumulation of an unpleasant odor, but also to dampness of the wood due to the constant formation of condensate.
3. Laying the floor over the cesspool with thin boards (less than 30 mm) can cause a person to fall into sewage.
4. The use of a common pit for a toilet and a shower leads to contamination of a larger volume of soil space and interferes with the normal flow of fecal fermentation processes.
5. The location of the toilet in the middle of a plot planted with trees and shrubs prevents the passage of a sewage truck.

To eliminate miscalculations in the construction of a country toilet, you should initially carefully consider its planning and construction. The most dangerous consequence is groundwater pollution, which can leave an entire dacha association without drinking water. Important aspects include the use of high-quality materials in the construction of supports, for which only durable beams free of rot should be selected.

Features of the construction and design of the ideal toilet for a summer residence, look at the video:

toilet care

1. Ventilation in dry weather - reduces and stabilizes the level of humidity.
2. Periodic painting or varnishing - is carried out as the previous layer of paintwork wears out.
3. Processing with an electric planer - is carried out when massive cracks appear, caused by drying out of the wood.
4. Periodic cleaning of the toilet - is carried out as the level of sewage rises to a level of about 2/3 of the volume of the cesspool. With very slow filling, it is recommended to call a vacuum cleaner at least once every 5 years, otherwise the feces form solid deposits that are difficult to pump out.

The appearance of a backlash of a structure is the first sign that the supports (beams) need to be replaced or repaired. The introduction of new corner and transverse racks into its composition helps to increase the strength of an already loosened structure.

You can get rid of the smell in the country toilet by adding peat or special biological preparations to the cesspool. In the summer, tomato tops will help to reduce the level of “aromas”, further slowing down the development of fly larvae.

Rest and work in a summer cottage without a toilet will always be inferior and uncomfortable. Organizing a wooden outhouse is the easiest way to provide basic amenities. Building a toilet made of wood will help to do without a bathroom in a country house of small dimensions. The availability of materials and the ability to assemble with your own hands are another plus in favor of a stationary wooden structure.

And not even from the garden house. The first thing any owner puts a closet. Because without it, further development of the territory is impossible. A hand is stuffed on this simple object and the first practice of construction work appears. How to build a toilet for a summer residence with your own hands? Step-by-step instructions, photos and diagrams will help to cope with this task.

The design of a sanitary house must be approached with all responsibility

The norms and rules for the location of a latrine on the territory of the site are not a whim of the inspection authorities. Their main goal is to prevent waste from entering the groundwater and to ensure the owner of the site is sanitary and safe. That is why it is important to know and comply with a few simple requirements:

• The distance from the sanitary block to the reservoir, if it is located next to the site, is not less than thirty meters. If the water body is located in a lowland relative to the site, the toilet should be moved as far as possible.
• You can not have a toilet closer than fifteen meters from the basement or cellar.
• From the house you need to retreat at least eight meters, from the chicken coop or other buildings for living creatures - five meters.
• From the trees, the garden and the fence you need to retreat at least a meter.
• It is recommended to study the direction of constant winds so that the unpleasant smell does not bother the neighbors.
• It is important to know the depth of groundwater. If their level is less than two and a half meters, you will have to install another sealed version of the closet.

Important information! When planning the construction of a country latrine, you need to study the location of neighboring pits, wells and wells. Good relations with neighbors is one of the vital conditions for a successful country holiday.

Do-it-yourself toilet in the country: how to make a closet with a cesspool

Many dachas are equipped with closets with a cesspool. This type of construction is not suitable for areas where the groundwater level rises above 2.5 meters. The depth of the pit must be made at least 1.5-2 meters. If in the process of preparing the site it turns out that the pit is filled with moisture, all the work will be in vain.

A closet with a cesspool has the following advantages:

• simplicity of design;
• fast erection;
• duration of use.

There are also some disadvantages:

• it is important to study the depth of groundwater;
• you will have to significantly retreat from water sources (wells, wells, reservoirs);
• costs for waterproofing and ventilation of the facility;
• the need for regular cleaning.

This sanitary facility consists of two parts: the booth itself and the pit. The capacity for sewage is strengthened bricks or boards treated with resin or other impregnation that prevents them from rotting. The bottom is poured with a layer of concrete thirty centimeters. The toilet for the dacha, the drawing with the dimensions of which is presented above, provides for the possibility of the entrance of a sewage truck for removing waste from the pit. The hatch into the pit, through which cleaning will be carried out in the future, must be tightly closed. Experts recommend building a clay castle around the entire height, that is, between brick or wooden walls and the ground, you need to fill in a layer of clay up to a quarter of a meter thick.

Helpful information! The size of the pit directly determines how often you have to hire a car to clean it. Calculations show that 1 cubic meter of volume per year should be provided for one permanently residing person.

Sanitary facilities without cesspool

The increased occurrence of groundwater does not allow a cesspool to be arranged on the site? There are several alternative solutions:

• Toilet type "Powder closet". For its arrangement, you will need a container, which is installed directly under the toilet seat. To prevent an unpleasant odor after use, sand or ash is poured into the container. Pros: the toilet can be placed anywhere on the site, the device is quite hygienic and does not require special maintenance costs. Cons: you have to change or clean the tank often.

• Dry closet. The principle of operation of dry closets is the use of special reagents (liquids or mixtures) that decompose waste. Advantages: ease of maintenance and lack of odors, the possibility of placing a sanitary point anywhere, even in the house. Disadvantages - the need for frequent cleaning and the high cost of reagents.

Models and prices for finished devices

Dry closets for summer cottages are divided into three main categories:

• Liquid - using liquid fillers, do not require ventilation or drainage.

Model	Mister Little Mini	Campa Potti MG	Portable 10 (Enviro)	ZENET OS07	Visa Marin 319
Price, rub	5900	3444	3000	2950	4900
Dimensions, mm	420x370x340	383x427x330	350x430x320	350x410x310	410x420x370
Weight, kg	5	3,6	4,5	3,5	5
Drain type	piston pump	hand pump	hand pump	hand pump	piston pump
Tank volume, l	18	12	10	10	18
250	250	250	250	250

• Peat - natural peat is used for filling. This closet requires the organization of ventilation and drainage, so it is better not to put it in the house.

Model	Piteco 505	Compact Elite	Biolan Kit	BioComfort	ROSTOK Standard
Price, rub	5490	4400	22500	8900	6900
Dimensions, mm	710x390x590	650x380x600	850x600x780	670x420x650	790x615x820
Weight, kg	8,5	6	15	8,8	11
Peat supply	manual	manual	manual	manual	manual
Tank volume, l	44	40	140	40	100

Related article:

• Compost - do without fillers, run on electricity. Waste can be used for compost.

Any of these products can be installed quickly and practically anywhere. A comparative analysis of popular brands of dry closets is presented above.

Do-it-yourself toilet for a summer residence: step-by-step instructions for building a birdhouse

The step-by-step instructions for a do-it-yourself toilet for giving in the form of a "birdhouse" are appreciated for its simplicity. Indeed, what could be simpler than an ordinary booth with a door and a symbolic window for ventilation?

A do-it-yourself toilet in the country, the drawings of which suggest using standard sizes and dimensions, is not difficult to build on your own. The height of the booth is usually 2-2.5 meters, the internal dimensions are from 1 square meter.

Drawing of a toilet cubicle - birdhouse

Support poles made of brick or concrete 20-30 centimeters high are placed around the equipped pit. Such a height is sufficient so that during seasonal movements of the soil the structure does not overturn. Oiled plank flooring is installed on the pillars.

Vertical racks made of timber are fixed with metal corners. Make a strapping of the top of the frame. A bar makes out a doorway. If the site is exposed to open winds, it is better to install additional oblique slats.

The frame is sheathed with wood, or OSB boards. A sheet of corrugated board or ondulin is fixed to the roof sheathing. Hang the door leaf.

Related article:

Toilet-hut: basic design principles

The triangular design of the "Shalash" closet is easier to manufacture and can be built literally in a matter of hours. Its peculiarity is that the walls are at the same time roof slopes.

Sheathe such a toilet only from the front and back. Roofing material is used from the sides.

Helpful advice! It is best to lay a soft roof on such structures. It is laid on plywood or OSB sheet.

The construction of a structure of the "hut" type

Do-it-yourself toilet in the country: photos, ideas and construction tips

The design of the closet can be the most diverse and include an additional shower and utility unit. If you combine these buildings, you can simultaneously save on the manufacture of a shower pit and a storage base for garden tools. Below is a do-it-yourself toilet in the country: photos and various interesting solutions.

With the growing popularity of wooden construction, many options for ready-made outhouses made of logs and timber have appeared on sale.

Another option for the booth is a plastic construction. It is not very beautiful, but it looks neat and easy to wash and clean.

A garden toilet made of brick or stone is a solid and durable structure. It is usually erected from "junk" bricks and lined with stone, tile or simply plastered.

Craftsmen offer original designs from improvised materials. Closet can be arranged from car tires, glass bottles or firewood.

Without such a structure as a toilet, one simply cannot do in the country. And if you decide to build a country toilet with your own hands, then you will have to make some efforts and diligence. The most difficult stage in construction will be digging a foundation pit. As for the aesthetic side of the building, this is rather a secondary issue, because the main thing is to competently arrange a cesspool and create a reliable foundation for the above-ground structure.

The following points will be discussed in detail below:

	The choice of a place for the construction of a toilet and its design.
	What you need to build a toilet.
	Features of the cesspool device.
	Construction of a country toilet house.
	Using a dry closet in the country.
	Biological agents for toilets.

How to build a country toilet with your own hands: photos, drawings, video

It should be noted right away that it is better to do all the work once and then not return to this issue for many years. It is especially important to build a capital structure if you spend a lot of time at your dacha. If you do not want to spoil the design of the site by installing an ordinary toilet, then you can always hide it in the far corner behind the country house or come up with an original design for it that would allow it to harmoniously fit into the landscape.

The choice of location for the toilet and its design features

As a rule, the toilet is installed closer to the far boundary of the land, as there will be an unpleasant smell near the room, even if it is insignificant. But sometimes they use another option, making a cesspool not far from the house, and a free corner of the house is taken away to place the toilet, leading the sewer pipe into the pit. Basically, this design is used in cases where water has been brought into the house and it is planned to install an insulating container designed to collect waste products.

Be that as it may, it is worth adhering to sanitary and epidemiological standards. They must be observed in order to protect yourself and the environment from negative consequences, such as soil contamination or infectious diseases.

If you are planning to install a cesspool, it is important that it is at least 30 meters away from water sources. Moreover, its depth should not reach groundwater.

If you are going to install a septic tank, then place it no closer than 15 meters from the house.

If you are going to use an insulated container that cleans out as it fills up, you can install it almost anywhere as the waste won't seep into the ground.

Also, an insulated container is suitable in cases where groundwater does not run very deep and it is impossible to make a cesspool in the ground.

Most often, the pits of the simplest toilet for a summer residence have an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 1 m 2. If the pit is round, then its diameter should correspond to about 1 meter. Its depth is 1.5-2 meters, depending on how the groundwater occurs.

Once you decide on a place for the pit, proceed to the choice of toilet design. First of all, you must take into account the weight of the future structure - the choice of material that you are going to use for construction largely depends on it. Moreover, the house itself should not be made very heavy, because over time, under its weight, the soil can begin to sag and the building is deformed and damaged.

Wooden boards or bars or thin material - corrugated board and galvanized profiles - are excellent as building materials.

If you decide to build a toilet booth out of bricks or logs, then you should think about the quality strengthening of the foundation. But there is no point in building such structures, since they will not be warmer than light buildings. Unless you have a need for thermal insulation of the room with the help of insulation, which has a small weight, for example, foam. This building will be warm, light, windproof in winter and not too hot in summer.

Having decided on the choice of material, you can begin to choose the size of the booth. If you decide to build a country toilet with your own hands, then we offer you the following drawings.

As a rule, a standard toilet, as you noticed in the drawings above, has a height of 2.3 meters, a width of 1 meter, and a length of 1.3-1.5 meters. But these dimensions can vary, and should not be considered as a dogma. Be that as it may, the room should be as comfortable as possible for all family members to be in it.

What you need to build a country toilet with your own hands

Having chosen the design and dimensions of the toilet, you need to buy building materials. You can buy a metal or wooden "house" ready-made. If you decide to build it yourself, then be prepared for the fact that you will need the following materials:

• wooden bars and boards;

• fasteners - self-tapping screws and nails;

• metal corners to reinforce the wooden frame;

• roof covering material - corrugated board or slate;

• door handle, latch or hook for closing;

• wooden or plastic toilet seat with a lid;

• foam for insulation and material for sheathing insulated walls: thin board, chipboard or plywood (if necessary).

For the device of the cesspool you will need:

• crushed stone, cement, sand;
• reinforcement for strengthening the foundation structure;
• a metal chain-link mesh (intended for covering the pit) and metal pins or brackets for attaching it to the ground.

Also, instead of the grid and its plastering with concrete, you can use a brick, which will be lined with the walls of the pit. Moreover, for the device of the pit, concrete rings are often used, which have holes in the walls. Many summer residents prefer old rubber tires.

Another good environmentally friendly option would be a ready-made container - a septic tank. You can find them in a variety of sizes, so you will choose the right one, depending on the length of your stay in the country and the number of family members.

Of course, when building a country toilet with your own hands, you cannot do without special tools, so prepare in advance:

• bayonet or shovel with a short and long handle;
• a hand drill that will help when digging a pit;
• perforator (if the site has rocky soil);
• screwdriver or hammer;
• grinder - "grinder" with discs for metal and stone;
• jigsaw;
• marking tool - tape measure, ruler, square, pencil, building level or marker.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands?

Of course, it’s worth starting with marking and digging a hole, which can be round or square (depending on which country toilet design scheme you have chosen).

If you are planning to install a two-chamber plastic septic tank, then the hole is dug so that the inlet pipe is in the toilet cubicle, since a toilet seat will be installed on it. The neck of the second chamber - remains outside the room, as it is required to adjust the pumping of fecal matter.

Tanks can be of different shapes, since the shape and dimensions of the pit depend on this. The size of the pit must be made 20 cm larger than the container, since it is necessary to compact the soil around it as best as possible.

If the walls of the pit are finished with brick or concrete, it can be made square or round.

After you dig a hole of the required depth, at the bottom it is necessary to arrange drainage from stones, large rubble, fragments of bricks.

Then, by throwing on the walls, a concrete solution is applied. It is left to dry completely. The total thickness of the layer may be approximately 50-80 mm.

When the first sketched layer grabs, the walls are plastered to a perfectly even state with the same concrete mortar. Then wait until the plastered pit dries.

The pit is covered either with a finished reinforced concrete slab, or you can make it yourself. It will act as a foundation and a platform around the toilet.

Boards are laid on the pit itself. They should go beyond its limits by about 700-800 mm and be sunk into the ground to the level with the ground. They are treated with antiseptic agents. It is quite possible to replace such a wooden substrate with concrete columns.

Two holes are left on the surface for the cesspool and the installation of the toilet seat. Formwork is installed around them.

A dense polyethylene film is spread over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation.

A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it, which along the entire perimeter is enclosed in the formwork of the future foundation.

With regard to the height of the formwork of the holes, it must be exactly the same as the formwork of the entire foundation structure. When leveling the surface, formwork boards will act as beacons.

The concrete solution is mixed, after which it is poured onto the site, carefully leveled and left to dry. For the strength and durability of the concrete layer after the initial setting, you can iron the wet surface with dry cement.

After the site has matured, a toilet booth can be installed on it. On the hole, which is designed for pumping waste, you will need a hatch. You can buy it in the store or make it yourself. The hatch cover should be easy to close and open.

Another good option is a round pit made from tires. But do not forget that this type of hole cannot be used for a regular user. Such a toilet can only be operated in a dacha, and then if the owners come occasionally, for example, for the weekend, otherwise you will have to resort to pumping out waste very often.

To make a pit, a round pit is pulled out of car tires 150-200 mm larger than the diameter of the tires.

Drainage is laid at the bottom of the pit, having a thickness of 15-20 cm.

Further, tires are laid exactly in the center of the pit to the surface of the soil. As it is laid around the tires, a drainage layer of sand and gravel is filled up and well rammed. This process is carried out to the top.

When the tires are laid, it is recommended to arrange a strip foundation around the pit. To do this, a trench breaks out along the entire perimeter of the future structure, about 500 mm deep, where concrete is poured.

The bottom of the trench is compacted, after which it is covered with sand of 50-70 mm. It also needs to be compacted and covered with a layer of rubble of exactly the same thickness.

Waterproofing is made of dense polyethylene.

Then you can weld a lattice from the reinforcement, install it and mount the formwork 100-150 mm above ground level, and then pour it with concrete mortar. Make a foundation of brick, and then plaster it with cement.

After the mortar has hardened, remove the formwork from the cement foundation, and level the brick on top. Further, roofing material is laid on its surface. It will separate the concrete surface from the wood.

Then the finished design of the country toilet is installed on the foundation, or it is built independently.

For the convenience of building on the foundation, the base-frame, consisting of powerful bars, is first fixed, and the rest of the structural elements are further mounted on it, depending on the model of construction that you choose.

It is worth noting another option for arranging a cesspool - metal barrels with a cut bottom. They are installed on top of each other and then act in the same way as in the case discussed above. A mixture of sand and gravel or a gravel mixture is tamped around the pipe.

It would seem that such a method is simple to implement, but it has many more disadvantages than advantages. Metal barrels under the negative influence both from the outside and from the inside will quickly begin to corrode, and this toilet will not last long.

Do-it-yourself country toilet: building a house, photo

After the pit and the platform for installing the toilet are ready, you can proceed with the installation of the house according to the previously drawn up scheme.

It should be said right away that houses for a country toilet can have a variety of shapes. Many even make them in the form of a fabulous hut, and others may not immediately understand what kind of room fits so harmoniously into the landscape design. Such a structure can be made with your own hands, having an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe scheme for its assembly.

In the photo you will see an option partially made of logs, which give the structure a decorative effect, masking the purpose of the building.

In the diagram you see the basis for building a log house, only boards are used instead of logs. It is perfectly visible how the walls of the structure are assembled and the slopes of the roof rise. The internal space is distributed, and a place has been chosen for the toilet seat.

The next step will be the roof lathing, roofing and wall decoration using the selected material (both wood and metal can be used).

The house can be installed on a pit or used as a room for a dry closet.

This variant of the structure of the toilet was called the "hut". In this case, the house is built in the form of a triangle, and its side walls act as a roof. The form is extremely simple, so the construction process will not cause you any difficulty.

This design is easy to build, as well as easy to use - it is very stable and quite spacious inside.

In the photo you will see the entire internal structure, the installation location of the toilet seat and the lathing of the roof walls. Finishing of the front and rear walls has begun. You can put the “hut” house on a well-equipped cesspool, as in the above case, or use it as a room for a dry closet.

In this photo you see a house for a country toilet of a traditional form, which is found in many areas. However, even such a seemingly simple design you can decorate according to your preference. For example, a toilet in this area was made to look like a Japanese house. This is evidenced by the hieroglyphs on the tablet, which is suspended on chains, an additional roof and a Japanese lantern at the entrance. Moreover, the interior space is also designed in the same style.

This attitude to design suggests that even from such a structure as a toilet, you can make a real work of art if you put in a little more effort.

An approximate scheme of the building is shown in the photo. It clearly shows the cesspool, the installation of the structure of the toilet and the hatch for cleaning. This design is quite simple in the device and it is easy to build. However, in order for it to be reliable, it is necessary to achieve the rigidity of the ligaments of each of the parts among themselves. Internally, the space arranged above the cesspool may look like this during the construction of the walls. That is, a base of bars is installed directly on the foundation, on which the frame of the structure is subsequently fixed.

Upon completion of finishing the country toilet from the inside, the room will have a cozy and neat appearance, such as you see in the photo.

If you wish, you can come up with a different design of the toilet, but it is necessary to carry out interior decoration from warm materials. We do not recommend using ceramic tiles for decoration, as this is a cold material, and in winter the tile will also become slippery.

Dry closet in the countryside

If you cannot build a country toilet with your own hands or you do not have the desire or time to get involved in construction work, then use a dry closet. This option will save you from having to dig a hole and from installing a house.

A biotoilet is nothing more than an autonomous toilet bowl that does not require either connection to branch communications or a separate room. It consists of two chambers, the upper of which acts as a toilet bowl, and the other is used for biological waste processing. In the lower chamber there are active substances that decompose feces, turning them into a homogeneous, odorless mass. The action of the bioactive liquid is enough for 10 days, after which the chamber is cleaned, the contents are poured into the soil or the central sewer.

The choice of disposal method depends on what substances were used in the dry closet. They come in three types: chemical, composting and microorganic. Each of them is ideal for a specific type of dry closet.

For composting, peat is used as an active substance. It is highly absorbent - 1 kg of peat is able to absorb 10 liters of liquid. Compost, which is odorless and obtained as a result of active processes, is perfect for fertilizing the garden.

As a rule, in the compost with this dry closet there are ventilation pipes that remove unpleasant odors during processing.

The work of a dry closet is based on the use of chemicals. It has an indicator that indicates that the container needs to be cleaned. Recycled waste is discharged into the sewer, and you do not harm the environment. For such models, there are special tools with non-freezing properties.

The third type is a dry closet, in which microorganisms are responsible for the waste processing process, turning them into compost. The material obtained in this way is environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for animals and soil, so it will not be difficult to dispose of it.

If necessary, you can install a dry closet in a normal room, which is located in the yard, and in winter bring it into the house, allocating a convenient place for these needs.

What biological agents are used for toilets

Owners of country houses with toilets with cesspools on the site are offered special tools (they are similar to those used in dry closets).

As you can see, there are many ways to solve the problem of a toilet in a country house - you can always choose the most suitable option.

Any suburban area should have a toilet. Moreover, it must be organized before the start of the construction itself, because this room is the most necessary for people to stay in the country. Other buildings, such as a bathhouse or a gazebo, will be built later.

A country toilet can be made without asking for help from specialists, who will certainly take a lot of money. Therefore, it is first necessary, in accordance with all sanitary and hygienic requirements, to select a place for the structure, and then choose the type of structure and methods of its construction.

Choose a place

It should be noted that there are certain requirements and norms for placing such buildings on the street. This is especially true for those toilets in which sewage directly comes into contact with soil or groundwater.

You must adhere to the following rules:

• The nearest body of water must be at least 25 meters away. In the event that the territory is located on sloping terrain, then the structure must be installed below the water source. This will prevent impurities from entering the source.
• The distance from the cellar or basement of the house to the toilet is at least 12 m.
• From a bath, sauna or other structure - at least 8 m.
• The distance to the place of stay of animals is at least 4 meters.
• From the trunk of the nearest tree - 4 m, and from shrubs - 1 m.
• The distance from the fence of the adjacent territory is one meter.
• When choosing a place, be sure to consider the wind rose, this is necessary so as not to annoy yourself and your neighbors with unpleasant odors.
• The door must be installed so that it opens towards your house.

It is worth considering not only the distance to your water source, but also take into account the location of the well or well of the neighbors!

All these requirements must be taken into account not only in relation to their own territory, but also to the neighboring one (regarding the location of shrubs, baths, cellars, and the like). But these requirements directly apply only to the pit latrine. The rest should be guided by ease of use.

Kinds

There are four most common types of toilet:

1. With a cesspool.
2. Powder closet.

It is a sealed cesspool, which can be large in size, and its cleaning is carried out by a sewage machine.

If speak about powder closet, then this is a type where a container is located under the toilet seat, which needs to be cleaned from time to time. With each use, it is necessary to sprinkle sewage with a small layer of peat. A bucket of peat is placed nearby. This option is the easiest for any cottage, however, the process of removing feces is quite unpleasant.

Well, the last alternative is bio or chemical toilet. Here all impurities are broken down by special bacteria. This process is completely environmentally friendly.

We start building. Cesspool and wall reinforcement

It is the toilet with a cesspool that is the most in demand due to its simple operation. All impurities fall into a deep pit. When it is 2/3 filled, it must be cleaned. There is also the option of transferring it, but we will talk about this below.

The size of the cesspool can be 1.5 × 1.5 meters, and the depth is up to two meters.

To strengthen future walls, several optimal options are used. For example, you can take boards pre-treated with an antiseptic, concrete rings, bricks, a barrel without a bottom, or old tires. Care must be taken to remove sewage from the cesspool.

If brickwork is used, then the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, and the last six rows are laid solid. If a backlash closet is being equipped, then excellent sealing of the pit is needed here. Therefore, a screed is poured to the bottom, or it is simply covered with rubble. If a brick cesspool is made, then a concrete floor is poured on top. For this, formwork is made of bars and boards. After the concrete has hardened, the frame must be dismantled.

It is extremely important to leave a hole for the toilet as well as for ventilation. Moreover, an additional hole is needed for pumping out feces.

If you do not want to constantly clean the pit, then you can fill it up, and move the house to another place. After several movements, it can be returned to its original place, and the decayed waste can be used to fertilize the beds.

Buy ready-made or build your own

Today there are a large number of ready-made houses for the toilet. To a greater extent, everything will depend on your financial situation and the amount of free time.

If you still decide to build a toilet yourself, then there are several ways. For example, brick. You will get a reliable design, but for it it is necessary to provide a good foundation outside the cesspool. Most often in summer cottages you can find a house made of wood. For its construction, it is better to use bars 50 × 60 mm.

As for the supporting frame, its base must be strong and reliable enough, because the entire structure above the cesspool will be located on it. For this reason, it is better to use a beam of 100 × 100 mm. Before installation, it must be treated with an antiseptic, which will increase its performance.

As an antiseptic, some use molten bitumen in a 1: 1 ratio!

Installation of the frame can be carried out on a strip or on a column foundation. In some cases, when possible, it is simply installed on the ground. To make waterproofing, a strip of roofing material is laid between the foundation layer and the soil. Several anchor bolts are fixed to the base of the foundation. They will protect the structure from capsizing the house in the event of a strong gusty wind.

When the frame is installed on the ground, the vertical frame racks are dug into the ground by 30 cm. A board is tightly laid on top of the finished frame, the thickness of which can be 40 mm. A variety of materials are used for wall cladding, such as lining or OSB board.

If the sheathing is carried out from the inside, then the walls can be insulated with mineral wool or foam. In the frame itself, transverse strips should be provided at a height of approximately 500 mm. They are necessary for fixing the plane of the toilet seat. Different materials can be used as a roof, such as slate or tiles. Its slope will be formed based on the height of the front and rear pillars.

Ventilation is needed to eliminate unpleasant odors from the cesspool. For this reason, a hole must be provided in the design of the toilet. To do this, use a sewer plastic pipe Ø100 mm. It can be fixed with a metal clamp to the back wall of the toilet. The pipe itself must be brought into the cesspool by at least 15–20 cm. The height of the pipe will be 20 cm higher than the roof plane. To improve traction, a deflector nozzle is installed at the end of the pipe.

Lighting

To make lighting in this room or not is your own business. To save light in the daytime, you can make a small window in the door. So, the whole day in the toilet there will be natural light. Some decide to install a small window on one of the walls, under the roof. At the same time, it can be glazed, or simply fix the grid. There is also the option of connecting wall lights or LED lights. They are connected to a battery. This must be taken care of before finishing work.

If you encounter any problem during the construction process, then ask us your questions.

Video: building a powder closet at their summer cottage

A photo

Drawings and diagrams

One of my acquaintances, mastering the suburban area, having learned that I, in turn, master the SketchUp program, in which you can build three-dimensional models, asked me to draw him a drawing of a “classic” country toilet. You understand that this is usually the first thing that has to be built on a summer cottage that has not yet been developed.

Why not?
And I gave him a drawing of a country toilet with all dimensions and full details, and also showed a 3D model of his future "house".

It is very convenient to use 3D modeling, especially if there is not a large stock of building materials available, and each board has to be bought in a store. You can calculate everything down to the last screw.

Now, I decided to post all the drawings of the country toilet and its 3D model on the site, maybe someone will also come in handy. It turned out a classic version of the "birdhouse", for a complete resemblance, you can make another window in front of the top or in the door.

Scroll down the page to view the 3D model.

So, let's start with a list of materials and tools.

materials

• Bar 50*50 mm.
• Board 40*100 mm.
• Lining, blockhouse or rail - 15 m 2 for finishing walls and doors.
• Plastic bucket.
• Styrofoam sheet.
• Flexible tiles - approximately 3 m 2.
• Wood screws and nails for shingles.
• Plywood or boards for the roof and seat in the toilet.
• OBZ (fire bioprotection).

Instruments

• Hacksaw or any saw.
• Roulette.
• Screwdriver.
• A hammer.
• Electric jigsaw.
• If you want to make everything beautiful and clean, you will also need an electric planer and a grinder.
• Brushes or roller for applying OBS.

We begin work with the manufacture of the base of the toilet, for this we use a bar cut to size 50 * 50 mm. See detailed drawings below.

* For a more comfortable opening of the door (to stand freely on the platform), you may have to extend it by a couple of boards. But, it's up to you to choose: comfort or savings.

Now you need to make the frame of the toilet itself.
The basis of the frame will be two identical sidewalls, all from the same bar 50 * 50 mm. The upper part is made with a bevel of about 15 degrees.

Next, you should fix the sidewalls of the toilet frame and fasten them together with jumper bars from above, behind and inside. You can fix them with metal corners 50 * 50 mm, or you can directly with self-tapping screws.

The next step will be the manufacture of the front of the frame, with an opening for the door.

*If you use an existing or purchased door, then consider the size of the opening for the size of the door.

Now you need to connect the frame with the base of the toilet into a single whole. It is better to do it already on the spot, i.e. on a dug hole, because the assembled structure will already be heavy enough, at least for one.

The next step is to stuff the cut boards on the seat below from the inside. Will it be lining, plywood or just a butt board - it's up to you. We also immediately make the seat shelf itself from thick plywood (~ 16 mm) or boards 20-25 mm thick nailed end-to-end and reinforced from below.

Using a jigsaw to cut the correct hole in the seat will help any toilet seat circled from the inside with a marker.

And one more little trick - install a PVC pipe as a hood in any corner of the toilet. Somewhere I spied it, but to be honest, I didn’t see it myself, if someone made such a device, write in the comments, does it help or not with the removal of odors?
So I’m wondering: will it then “smell” from the outside?

It came to the door...
Well, here who is in what much. You can do it yourself, you can use ready-made.
The main thing is to take into account the gaps for expansion, and even when the door is “opened” in wet weather, it should pass freely into the opening. I think 5-7 millimeters on each side will be just right.

Important! If you make a country toilet from “raw” lumber (natural moisture), such as planks, and fill them end-to-end, then keep in mind that over time, when they dry, cracks may appear.

Having put the toilet door on the hinges, we proceed to the installation of the roof and upholstery of the walls.

Even an unedged board will go to the roof (it should be even on top), but of course a piece of waterproof plywood or OSB is better. The overhangs of the toilet roof in front and behind should be slightly larger than on the sides.
Next, a flexible tile is stuffed onto the fixed roof base. Well, it's simple.

What facade material you will use for upholstery of the walls of the toilet does not matter, it all depends on personal and financial preferences. It is possible even from vinyl siding, except perhaps it will be necessary to nail more rails at the corners.

On the back wall I made an opening for a window, whether to glaze it or not as desired. But the window is necessary, without it it will be dark. Although, as a lighting option, there are LED lights with a battery-powered motion sensor that are mounted to the wall or ceiling.

3D model of a country toilet

Click on the picture, wait for it to load and use the left mouse button to rotate the model. Rotate the mouse wheel to zoom in and out. Watch in full screen - icon in the lower right corner. Exit full screen - Esc key.
To fully view 3D models, you need to download the SkethUp viewer program from the official website (for free) and install it on your computer. You can download this model for viewing by clicking on the logo in the lower left corner of the viewing window.

And finally, if you are going to put such a toilet in the country, a few simple tips:

• Treat all wood with bioprotective impregnation, at least 2 layers. To maintain a decent appearance and protect against ultraviolet radiation, external walls will have to be treated every 2-3 years with bioprotection with color or paint.
• Try to carry out the final assembly of the toilet structure directly at the installation site - save energy at the installation.
• Be sure to install the toilet on some kind of foundation (stones, bricks, concrete blocks). Be sure to lay a layer of waterproofing between the wooden structure and the foundation, for example, two layers of roofing material.
• Try to reinforce the sides of the cesspool with something, for example, you can put an old iron barrel, after cutting out the bottom in it, otherwise it may collapse.
• To remove odors, use special powders for septic tanks.

Of course, such a country toilet is good as a temporary solution, ideally, you should still consider choosing, buying and installing a real autonomous septic tank, especially since now there is a huge selection of them.