Those who live in their own home often need such a tool as a taiga ax in the country and on hikes. A good quality working tool is expensive and hard to find.

An ax from the market is not always of good quality. Therefore, we will make our own ax using improvised means.

Varieties of axes

Consider the variations of axes:

• A cleaver is a heavy conical axe. Due to its high weight, it is well suited for cutting large, hard woods.
• Carpentry - small weight and size, has a pointed blade. Used for careful, precise, accurate work with wood.
• Taiga - suitable for felling trees, harvesting trees, building a hut, removing bark, branches.
• Tsalda - designed to clean the area from shrubs.
• Kitchen (cooking) - designed only for chopping bones. It is a small hatchet, with a short handle and a large "blade".
• Lesorubsky - used only for cutting trees. It consists of a long ax handle and a wide, sharp blade.

Of all the above species, the taiga ax is more necessary and more useful than all.

Distinctive features of the taiga ax:

• Light weight.
• A small area of ​​​​the piercing surface (makes it possible to drive it as deep as possible into the wood).
• Specific sharpening of the blade (the rear edge is much smaller, thinner than the front.

This feature is made in order to use this type of ax as a cleaver (if the blow is applied correctly. A regular ax has a blade of the same shape for precise work with wood).

Making a taiga ax

Handle material

The function of the ax is primarily affected by its shape and length. The handle should be curved, and the section should be oval.

For the handle, species of trees such as maple, oak, ash, birch are best suited. Since these types of wood tolerate vibration well upon impact.

Wood harvesting starts in autumn

Dry in a dark place. Before use, wood must be stored for about one year, and preferably five.

Only felled wood is not advisable to use as it will dry out over time and will not hold in the eye.

Create a cardboard template

On a large cardboard sheet, we outline the shape of the handle and apply it to a wooden blank. The template will help us make a more accurate handle.

Handle material preparation

A one-year-old wood block is hewn parallel to the fibers. The blank for the handle should be longer than the template. We make the place that is inserted into the eyelet wider than the main part.

On both sides we circle the attached drawing, while not forgetting to leave allowances. After inserting the upper part into the eyelet in this way, we remove the excess wood.

Steps to cut an ax handle

Before cutting the handle, you need to make transverse cuts, but so that they do not reach the line of the future handle by about 4-5 mm. With the help of a chisel, we remove the remains of wood and excess allowances.

Ore transitions and corners are performed by turning with a rasp. After the workpiece is done, we bring the sandpaper to smoothness.

Buying a stabbing part for a taiga hatchet

It is unrealistic to make a blade in a domestic environment. In this case, here is a list of what you need to focus on when buying it on the market or in a hardware store:

• The presence of GOST marking (indicates the quality of steel);
• The hole for the handle (eye) must be cone-shaped;
• The blade is smooth, without defects;

Collecting an ax

• We cut the upper part of the handle along and across.
• Cut into five pieces of hard wood.
• We wrap the top of the handle with gauze soaked in resin for better entry into the hole in the blade.
• Using a hammer, drive in the handle.
• Hammer the prepared pieces into the cuts at the top of the ax handle.
• After the structure dries, cut off the protruding parts of the wooden pieces.

Note!

Sharpening the piercing part of the taiga ax

A properly sharpened blade gives excellent performance of the hatchet. In accordance with the activity that you will perform with an ax, the sharpening angle depends.

The sharpening of the taiga ax is performed at an angle of 30-35 ̊. If they will perform work with fresh wood, then we sharpen at an angle of 25 ̊.

If you use a grinding wheel for sharpening, then the ax handle must be held at an angle of 40-45 ̊. We reproduce the sharpening slowly, carefully.

If you have all the necessary tools in stock, a photo of the step-by-step production of an ax, then its creation will not take a lot of time, effort and money, and in return you will receive a high-quality ax made with your own hands.

But do not forget that with a piercing part made of high-quality metal, the ax will last much longer and if the handle is treated with linseed oil, then it will not rot and deteriorate.

DIY ax photo

Note!

Note!

An ax is one of the tools that you need to have on the farm. Of course, it can be purchased at the store, but if you want to have a reliable and convenient thing, it is better to make a tool yourself. The article will discuss how to make an ax handle at home with your skillful hands and properly plant a metal sheet.

The hatchet is the handle of a working tool. The productivity of labor depends entirely on how easy it is to work with him. Therefore, the usual straight stick in this case will not work. A real ax handle is a curved beam with an oval section and straight sections. The tail part should be expanded and bent down. Only with this option, the hand of the person performing the work will be able to securely hold the tool, while not feeling tired for a long time.

For the manufacture of an ax handle, the following types of wood are best suited:

• maple;
• Birch;
• acacia;
• ash.

Wood should be harvested in the fall. Birch is perfect for carpentry tools, and maple is more often used for the camping option. Its impact strength is less than that of birch. The ideal option is considered to be very durable and rarely changing shape ash. It is better to make an ax handle from a section of a tree located near the root, and the workpiece should be 15 cm wider and longer than the future product.

Attention! Before the prepared bars are used to make an ax handle, they must dry for at least a year in a dry, dark place, for example, in the attic. This is necessary so that when finished, the handle does not dry out and begin to hang out in the eye.

You can use fresh wood only in case of breakage of the ax handle as a temporary option to be replaced soon.

How to make an ax

In order to make an ax handle you will need:

• wooden blank;
• hacksaw;
• chisel;
• pencil;
• file;
• a hammer.

The manufacturing process itself takes place in the following order:

Attention! You need to make an ax so that the cross section is oval. In this case, it will be possible to hold it without particularly straining the hand and produce very accurate strikes.

Impregnation of an ax handle and an ax nozzle

The upper part of the finished handle must be impregnated with a water-repellent composition. There will be two options:

• drying oil;
• linseed oil;
• ski resin.

Lubricate the tree with the selected agent and leave to dry. The treatment is repeated several more times until the fat is absorbed. Ski resin is able to penetrate into the deeper layers of the workpiece, but it is difficult to find in stores. Therefore, the first two options are more often used.

Advice. A bright dye can be added to the impregnation agent. So the finished tool will be difficult to lose.

Attaching an ax to a handle is done as follows:

Watching videos and photographs will help you better understand the manufacturing technique. Making an ax handle with your own hands is more difficult than buying it ready-made. However, if you have the desire and some skills, it is quite possible to get a quality tool.

How to make an ax handle: video

An ax is such a simple but useful tool that most home crafters have in their arsenal. It is applicable both in the conditions of a summer residence, and in many professional works, where one cannot do without good tools. If you treat the ax with care and do not forget to properly prepare it, then the result of the work will certainly please and will not cause disappointment. Today we will figure out how to make this tool with our own hands.

Features of a homemade ax

The ax is a simple and common tool that is difficult to surprise anyone. However, thanks to him, you can cope with many complex jobs and end up with an excellent result. On sale you can find both simple versions of axes, as well as more interesting and original ones, for example, with decorative inclusions. If you don’t want to spend money on a ready-made version, or you couldn’t find a suitable one among those, you can do it yourself.

Many home craftsmen, not finding the right tool for sale, undertake to make it with their own hands. Such work cannot be called impossible or super difficult, but even here it is very important to follow all the rules in order to get a good result. It should be borne in mind that there are several varieties of axes that it is possible to build on your own.

For example, there are special cleavers that are very popular today:

• mechanical;
• with electric drive.

Of course, the mechanical version is the simplest and easiest to implement. It is equipped with a manual drive. Making such a model with your own hands is not difficult. The drawings of mechanical tools are quite simple and understandable, and the principle of their work lies in simple mechanical manipulations. This device consists of the following main elements:

• metal wedge;
• spring mechanism.

Working with such a tool, the master spends a minimum of effort and time, especially if you compare this cleaver with a standard simple ax. As for the even more advanced electric cleaver, there is one main part in it, which, after activating the engine, starts its movement - it constantly rotates. The master only needs to put in a new batch of firewood for the split.

You should also be aware of other options for axes that many craftsmen can make on their own.

• Joiner's. This tool has a small weight and size, as well as a pointed blade. It is used in cases where the most accurate and accurate work with wood is needed.
• Taiga. This ax can also be made by hand. It is perfect for felling trees, removing knots and bark.
• Tsalda. This tool is made to clear the area of ​​bushes.
• Kitchen. Such tools are made exclusively for cutting bones. The kitchen ax is a small tool with a short handle and a large blade.
• Lumberjack. Only suitable for cutting down trees. It is made from a long ax handle and a pointed wide blade. It also has other names, for example, felling.

The taiga types of axes are recognized as the most popular and practical. They are distinguished by the following features:

• little weight;
• small area of ​​the stabbing area;
• unusual sharpening of the blade (the edge located at the back is several times smaller and thinner than the front).

For the manufacture of a homemade ax, certain types of trees are ideal. It should be borne in mind that materials suitable for such purposes can easily withstand significant vibration loads that occur at the moment of impact of the tool.

Any homemade ax is also distinguished by the fact that it is ideal for the master who works with it. Making this tool with your own hands, it is possible to adjust it for yourself, for your hand. The result is the most convenient, practical and easy-to-use devices.

Tools and materials

The ease of use of the ax largely depends on the correct manufacture of its handle. One of the following types of wood is ideal for this part:

• maple;
• ash;
• Birch.

You definitely need to know what steel the piercing component of the future tool is made of. Acceptable materials marked 8HF, 9HF, 9XC, HVG, U7A and many others. It is only necessary to avoid the designation of MRTU, OST and TU on these parts.

Of the tools you may find useful:

• abrasive sharpener;
• file;
• marker for marking;
• chisel;
• magnetic corner;
• clamp;
• sandpaper;
• grinding disc for sharpening the blade;
• Bulgarian;
• Some jobs may require a welding machine.

DIY manufacturing

On your own, you can make any kind of ax. It can be simple, hunting, Scandinavian, marching, intended for throwing (throwing) or just decorative - there are a lot of options. And it is also permissible to update the tool and build a completely new and convenient tool from an old ax. In order to do such work yourself at home, you will first need to make an accurate drawing with all the indicators of the planned tool. It is important to indicate the dimensions of all parts, because they can vary greatly. For example, the stalk of an ax is not only quite large, but also medium or small, like the blade.

From the spring

A small hatchet can be made from an old spring. It can be not only a working one, but also an original decorative tool, similar to a Viking axe. You need to do such a thing in the following way.

1. It is necessary to take an old spring from a machine with a width of 10 cm and a length of about 40 cm. Using a pre-prepared template, apply the contours of the planned fixture to the springs using a marker.
2. Draw the contours of the ax using a grinder with cutting wheels. Then carefully sand the cut blank, giving it the desired shape.
3. For particularly complex metal work, it is permissible to use a drill.
4. You can use an old chair leg as a handle. Drill 3 holes in the spring for fastening to the handle.
5. Cut off the leg to the desired length. Cut this piece into two halves. Drill 3 holes in each of them. After that, you need to assemble the handle, fixing it with bolts and screws. Draw the shape of the part on the grinder.
6. Finally, sharpen the blade. The result will be a beautiful mini hatchet. It is suitable for outdoor recreation or in a summer cottage.

From reinforcement

From this part you can make a good cleaver. It is done like this.

• Take two reinforcement parts with a length of 50 cm and 8 blanks to make the lower and upper squares.
• Using reinforcement, weld a couple of squares. Then weld the racks.

• For a cleaver blade, it is desirable to take steel with a thickness of 8-10 mm. Weld the knife to the reinforcing bases.
• Now focus on sharpening the angle of attack. Place the knife in the middle of the structure.

After that, a simple homemade cleaver can be considered complete. It can be a good alternative to a mechanical or screw device.

From a circular saw

A good ax can be built from an old circular saw. To make a reliable and strong tool in this case, you only need a carved disk from a circular. Consider how to make an ax from such a part (there is no need to harden the disk, since it is already hardened).

• Make a drawing of the future tool on cardboard or paper. Cut out the resulting template. Put it on disk.
• Cut out the desired part with the impeller.
• Heat the resulting part using a burner. Drill 2 holes for the wood handle.

• Cut off the excess leftovers from the bottom half of the piece.
• Clean the hatchet well using sandpaper.
• Cut out the wood handle. Lubricate the two halves of this element separated from each other with adhesive, install a pair of screws.
• Clean the handle. Varnish. This will complete the work.

From stone

You can make an ax using stones. This material makes good blades. However, it should be borne in mind that their manufacture is a rather laborious and lengthy process. Suitable types of stones:

• granite;
• quartzite;
• sandstone.

For such a tool, it is desirable to make an oak handle. This material is characterized by reliability and sufficient rigidity. Take a pre-made blank. It should be free of knots and other wood defects. Make an incision moving along the fibers under the anatomy of the handle. To do this, use a jigsaw with fine teeth. At the tip of the handle, make a slight slope, "looking" down. This is necessary so that the planned ax does not slip in your hands as you work.

Further, a hole can be made in the stone specifically for the cone, using a drill or a bench machine. After that, it will be necessary to hammer the prepared handle into the wedge. If you make a classic stone ax, then it is worth attaching the blade to a special wide-width Kevlar tape. Such parts are famous for their reliability and durability, so it will be safe to work with a homemade tool.

These rules should be followed when making a stone axe.

1. Grind the stone in such a way that it fits as close as possible to the end of the handle. Only in this way will it be easiest to tie it.
2. It makes no sense to use very expensive specialized devices and machines in the manufacture of this tool. Just remove the top layer from the stone. This will be enough.
3. Never make a handle out of raw wood. If you do not follow this rule, then over time you may encounter the fact that this part will dry out and noticeably decrease in size. The tool will be unusable.

If everything is done correctly, you will get a reliable, durable and wear-resistant tool that will solve many of the problems that home craftsmen face in the country.

DIY ax

If you live in a private house or often relax in nature, an ax will definitely be one of the main tools that you should always have at hand. While at home, it can be used to chop wood or chop large bones. And in nature, an ax is an indispensable tool at all, because it will help you chop wood for a fire, and put together a simple shelter from the weather, and even come in handy in butchering game.

Unfortunately, not all tools sold on the market are of high quality. To get a truly high-quality and convenient ax, it is better to make it yourself. So you will be sure that the handle will be comfortable, and the blade will remain sharp for a long time and will not let you down at the most crucial moment. In this article, we will consider not only the features of self-made axes, but also describe the main varieties of this tool so that you can choose the model that is most suitable for your purposes.

Types of axes and their characteristics

At first glance, it seems that there are no special differences between axes, although in fact they differ depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200buse (Figure 1).

Among the main types are:

1. Cleaver: mainly used for chopping wood. It is this type of ax that is most often made independently, because special skills are not required for this. A distinctive feature of the cleaver is a large weight and a cone-shaped blade. Due to its weight, the tool is excellent for chopping large logs or hardwoods.
2. Carpentry: usually such a tool is light and small, since its sharpened blade is used for precise and accurate work with wood.
3. Taiga: such an ax is great for hunting and survival in the wild in general, because with its help you can chop wood for a fire, and clear the territory, build a shelter, and even partially butcher the game.
4. Tsalda: this model is also called a tourist ax, because its shape and sharpness of the blade is great for clearing the area from dense shrubs.
5. Kitchen: features a sharp and durable double blade, but is used exclusively for cutting thick bones or frozen meat.

Figure 1. The main types of axes: 1 - cleaver, 2 - carpentry, 3 - taiga, 4 - tourist, 5 - kitchen

In addition, a lumberjack ax or an ax is distinguished as a separate one. It has a long handle and a wide sharp blade. However, this type has a limited scope, as it can only be used for cutting trees.

We have only briefly reviewed the main types of axes, but if this information is not enough, we will provide a more detailed description of the main types to make it easier for you to decide on a tool model for self-production.

Combat

The battle ax is rather not a carpentry or tourist tool, but a very dangerous weapon that was used in ancient times in Russia and by the Scandinavian Vikings (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Reproductions of battle axes

At the moment, this weapon has lost its relevance, but for lovers of historical antiquity, information about making a Viking ax close to the original with your own hands may be interesting.

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the interesting shape of such an ax. Its blade narrows slightly towards the center and widens towards the edge. This was done so that the ax served both as a reliable weapon in battle and as a good helper in everyday life.

By the way, the ancient Vikings built their famous dragon boats with just such axes, and then robbed neighboring settlements using all the same axes as weapons.

Another distinctive feature of this type is the long handle, which made it possible to comfortably hold the weapon in hand and make large-scale swings during the battle.

Wooden

A wooden ax is of no value either as a household tool or as a weapon, because its main difference is that not only the handle, but also the blade is made of wood. Moreover, no matter how strong the wood is, the finished tool will not be able to cope with either chopping firewood or cutting other hard materials (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Wooden products perform exclusively decorative functions

In fact, this is a kind of costume element of a certain historical era, which may be needed during a masquerade or other similar event. However, if you are interested in how to make an almost real wooden ax with your own hands, then we can clarify that the handle will have to be cut out in the same way as for a conventional tool, but the blade will have to be hewn out of durable wood according to a ready-made template. The assembled structure can be decorated with a pattern by burning or painting.

Hunting

The hunting ax is included in the list of basic tools that must be included in the equipment of any hunter. Without this tool, it will be almost impossible to start a fire or build a simple shelter from the weather (Figure 4).

Contrary to popular belief, a hunting ax has nothing to do with a massive felling tool, although it is often used for the same purpose.

The main requirements that a hunter's ax must meet are as follows:

1. Compact size that allows you to carry the tool with you over long distances without much discomfort.
2. Ergonomic design that allows you to use tools for a long time without excessive fatigue.
3. The power and sharpness of the blade are also not the least important parameters. The sharpness of the ax will determine how quickly you can chop branches to light a fire.

Figure 4. Models for hunters

It is believed that a high-quality hunter's ax should weigh no more than 750 grams with a total length of 30-40 cm. However, many outdoor enthusiasts, given the shortcomings of such small hatchets, still prefer to take more massive axes with them, which will help not just chop thin branches, but also cut fairly large and hard logs.

Taiga

Of all types of axes, the taiga ax is considered the most versatile and indispensable during a hike or hunt. It has a relatively low weight, and the piercing surface has a small area, which allows you to drive the cutting edge as deep as possible even into the hardest wood (Figure 5).

Figure 5. Taiga tool model

If you are planning to make a taiga ax for personal use with your own hands, you should consider that it is characterized by a special sharpening of the blade. Its rear edge is much smaller and thinner than the front, which provides high piercing characteristics of the tool.

How to make an ax step by step

Experienced hunters prefer to make axes with their own hands, because in this case you can create an absolutely unique tool adapted to your personal preferences and functions that the tool will perform in the future.

Since the taiga ax is considered the highest quality and most versatile, we will provide detailed instructions and tips for making this particular model.

We select materials

The first step in the manufacture of the tool will be the selection of suitable materials, not only for the blade, but also for the handle. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the convenience of further use will directly depend on the shape and length of the handle, so it is better to make the handle oval and slightly curved.

Some lovers of folk crafts are interested in whether it is possible to make a whole stone ax and how to do it correctly. Of course, it is realistic to carve such an imitation out of stone, especially if we are talking exclusively about a blade, but it will be very problematic to use such a tool in everyday life, and even more so when hunting.

Theoretically, it is possible to make an entirely metal cast ax, and put a rubber pad on the handle, which will prevent the hand from slipping while using the tool. But still it is better to make the handle wooden and the blade metal.

As a material for the handle, it is better to use oak, maple, birch or ash wood, as these species tolerate vibration well during impacts on a hard surface. It is advisable to prepare wood from the fall and dry it in a dark place for a year. If you use raw wood, it will dry out over time and will not hold firmly in the eye.

It is impossible to make a high-quality ax blade at home, so you will have to buy it on the market or in a building materials store. When choosing a workpiece, pay attention to the presence of the GOST marking, which indicates that you are buying a truly high-quality steel, and not a home-made blade melted down from old rails. It is also necessary to inspect the hole for the handle: it should be cone-shaped. Only in this case the blade will be securely held on the handle. In addition, carefully inspect the blade itself: it should be perfectly smooth, sharp and without any defects or nicks.

Preparing a template

A cardboard template will be needed first of all for the manufacture of the handle. On cardboard, you need to draw a future pen of the required shape and size, and then transfer this drawing to a tree and cut it out using carpentry tools. Thanks to this algorithm of actions, you can create a handle with optimal ergonomics (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Necessary templates for making a do-it-yourself tool

If you are interested in how to make a high-quality taiga ax from an old double-sided ax handle, then you should immediately clarify that you will need a template in this case as well. The fact is that the taiga ax differs from the usual carpenter's ax precisely in the shape of the blade. In order not to take risks and not give it a shape “by eye”, it is better to immediately use the template. Then the workpiece will have the optimal shape and size.

Billet production

If you bought a ready-made ax head from a store or market, all you have to do is attach it to the handle. But, if you prefer to make a blank according to drawings from scratch at home, for example, from an old ax, you will need some tips on technology and design.

To do this, do the following:

1. Take an old head from an ax, and it is advisable to choose a product with a weight of no more than 1400-1600 grams.
2. The front ledge of the blade must be cut flush with the butt. It is in order to make an accurate cut that you need a template. Despite the fact that a deviation of 5-8 degrees is considered acceptable, in real taiga axes the edge of the blade is exactly flush with the butt.
3. The back of the blade should be made slightly rounded by sawing off part of the metal so that the entire surface of the blade touches without corners. For this purpose, you can use an ordinary grinder, but a more accurate cut will be obtained on an emery wheel with a medium grain.
4. In the inner part of the blade, you need to cut out a small semicircle, which will help you more comfortably hold the ax when carrying out more precise work. In addition, this semicircle will help to securely hang the ax to the branch, and the head itself will weigh about 200 grams less without losing the main mechanical properties of the ax.

Figure 7. How to make a blade

At the final stage, you can cut off the upper parts of the butt to make it more rounded. This will help increase the maneuverability of the tool, but if it suits you in its original form, this procedure can be omitted (Figure 7).

Carving an ax handle

An equally important role in the manufacture of a high-quality ax is played by the production of its handle. To use the tool comfortably, the handle should be ergonomically shaped, but at the same time be as simple as possible (Figure 8).

You can make it like this:

1. Prepared dried wood is hewn parallel to the fibers. In the process, it is necessary to ensure that the finished handle is slightly longer than the original template.
2. The upper part of the handle, which will be inserted into the eyelet, needs to be made slightly wider than the main one.
3. To cut the ax more accurately, it is better to make small transverse cuts on the workpiece, not reaching the edge of the handle by 4-5 cm. This will help you quickly and easily remove the remnants of wood.

Figure 8. Stages of manufacturing the handle

All manual transitions and angles are made with a chisel, and when the handle is completely made, it is brought to smoothness with sandpaper so that it is beautiful.

Water repellent treatment

Since the taiga ax involves constant use in the open air, it is desirable to treat it with special water-repellent compounds. This will help keep the tool from constant exposure to moisture and minimize further restoration of the handle.

To process the handle of a carpentry tool, you can use any protective composition for wood. All of them protect the material from rot and damage with constant exposure to high humidity.

Handle mount

When the head and handle are ready, you can proceed to the direct assembly of the parts of the ax. To do this, the upper part of the handle is cut lengthwise and across and cut into five small pieces of hardwood.

We take a piece of gauze, soak it in resin and unwind the upper part of the handle with it so that it fits better into the hole on the piercing nozzle. Next, using a hammer, we drive the handle into the ax head, and fix the prepared pieces of wood in the upper part of the ax handle (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Stages of assembly of the finished product

Blade sharpening

To give the tool the necessary sharpness, you need to properly sharpen the ax (Figure 10). The sharpening angle directly depends on what kind of work you plan to do with the axe.

Figure 10. Blade sharpening mechanism

For example, in order for the blows with the blade of the taiga ax to be accurate, sharpening is carried out at an angle of 30-35 degrees. for comparison, a lumberjack's ax, designed to work with raw wood, is sharpened at an angle of 25 degrees. As a rule, a special grinding wheel is used for this procedure. Since this tool requires care, it is better to make the length of the ax handle large enough so that it is convenient for you to hold the tool at a sufficiently large distance and at an angle of 40-45 degrees to the grinding wheel itself. At the same time, the rotation speed of the grinding wheel should be small so that the metal does not overheat, and the blade is sharpened as efficiently as possible.

We make a case for storage and transportation

To make the ax convenient to carry, a special cover is made for it from thick leather or tarpaulin (Figure 11). To do this, it is enough to create a pattern for the future cover and firmly sew the parts together. However, if you are going to wield a large ax in the forest, it is not practical to make a special case for it, and you will have to wear the tool either without additional protection, or sew those separately for the blade.

Figure 11. Transport case options

Many hunters and outdoor enthusiasts prefer the latter option, as it makes it easier to carry the tool, which is extremely important if you were making axes yourself and the finished product is quite large.

Professionals recommend with particular care to approach the choice of materials for the manufacture of a homemade ax. For example, it is better to harvest wood for making a handle in the fall, and then dry it in a dark place for a year. But the future handle will become even more durable if it is dried for five years. Of course, if you do not have so much time, you may well wait a year, but then the treatment of the finished pen with water-repellent compounds will become mandatory.

It is better to buy a blade in hardware stores or on the market, and preference should be given to products with the GOST marking. So you will be sure that the steel has passed the necessary hardening, and will not crumble or lose its sharpness when cutting trees. In addition, when making an ax, you need to decide in advance for what purposes you will use it. The angle of sharpening the blade will depend on this, because axes for logging, carpentry or hunting differ precisely in this parameter.

You can see how making an ax with your own hands looks like in practice in the video.

An ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many workflows, resulting in an excellent result. An ax can not only be bought ready-made in a specialized store, but also made at home. It will not take much time, effort and money. Today we will take a closer look at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed both in household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets, you can find many different models of such tools, because there are quite a few types of axes themselves. It is possible to choose the ideal option in accordance with any requirements.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out for themselves - they make an ax on their own. In order for the tool to turn out to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax detail. It is believed that a real master will go around the whole forest before he finds the very tree from which it will be possible to make an ax handle. In most cases, the indicated element of the ax is constructed from the root section of the birch, and even better if the growths that are present on its trunk are used. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and wavy structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other hardwood deciduous trees. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable high quality handles. But it is not enough to find the ideal material for making an ax handle. We still need to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The blanks must be dried well. This is done only in natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - an average of 3-4 years, and even longer is better (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate into the space where the natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and it will not work to make a good ax handle.

How to make a template?

If you have the material already prepared and dried to the desired degree, then you should proceed to the next step in creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be a great helper in further work.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of the ax handle based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which is usually from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. It must also be taken into account that all existing types of axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpentry;
• lumberjack;
• branchy;
• cleaver;
• butcher's.

Before proceeding with the independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

• So that in the process of work the ax does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the place of capture.
• When making an ax handle for a cleaver, it is necessary to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches the mark of 0.5 m.
• To the parameter of the length of the handle, the will of the butt must be added another 8-10 cm for an allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree at this moment does not begin to split.

The template with its correct shape and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or cardboard sheet.

Step by step instructions for making

It is not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a not very complex technology for the work. Let's get to know her:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after that, it can be carefully cut with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number of important rules that must be followed in the course of work.

• The processing of the fixing place of the ax handle must be carried out to the maximum carefully and accurately so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be tightly fixed in its place. It is better to periodically try on the handle to the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• Do not use a file in the process of finishing the part. This will inevitably loosen the tree. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use not a file, but a finely abrasive sandpaper with a grinder. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fixing place of the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, for him the indicated angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax - 75 degrees.

When making an ax handle yourself, you need to act very carefully. It's not worth rushing. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will also hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's consider how to do it.

• Adjust the top of the piece to fit the eye of the blade. Remove the excess part of the tree with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part must be placed on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will drive in. Divide the segment and set another mark.
• Lock the handle in a vertical position using a vise. The wide piece should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second mark under the wedge.

• At a specialized outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
• Lay out the board on a separate countertop. Put a blade on it. Put it upside down. Throw the prepared ax on this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the fixture over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, it will turn out to drive the ax into the eye well.
• Then set the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge in the cut. Hit him with a mallet. Saw off excess protruding parts

How to protect from decay?

The wood from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. It is strongly not recommended to use compounds such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The best solution to protect the ax from decay will be other suitable impregnations. You can cover the handle with linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will extend the life of natural wood. But keep in mind that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this process.

Some craftsmen add red pigment to antiseptic protective products. They turn to such a trick not at all to give the instrument a more interesting appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, it will be possible to successfully hold it, without straining the hand too much. Ax strikes will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of juices is minimized (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect the drying of wood for the construction of an ax handle. As a result, this ends with the fact that the handle changes in size, and the metal part with the butt on it is held very poorly. It is permissible to deal with undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very handy old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to start sharpening the ax blade only after it is installed on the ax handle.

A ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) is very important to use correctly. Experienced craftsmen strongly do not recommend trying to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan on cutting wood, it's best to make sure there are no solids inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly not recommended to throw the finished tool on hard surfaces, especially from a great height. The ax is not recommended to be left outdoors. Precipitation or aggressive sunlight can adversely affect the quality of the wooden part. Keep such an instrument in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.