Make a travel table. Do-it-yourself table: we make wooden and folding tables by studying the drawings and step-by-step instructions

A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for an overly small kitchen. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo of a suburban area. If you have the right materials and tools at hand, you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for the job

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
Screwdriver Set.
Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
Sandpaper for grinding.

Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:

An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.

Jigsaw rating

The grinder will help to make the surfaces even and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious manual sanding procedure.

Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.

will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

To make a similar country table - everyone can do it

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:

Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
Joiner's glue.
Board size:

1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);
1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
950×100×25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.

Frame or "box" of the table

The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards 1680 × 100 × 25 mm in size and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.

The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:

Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners

- using a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- the tie-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of tongue and groove connection

- “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;

- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.

All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since along their edges there should be a distance for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. In order to avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, it is necessary to drill through holes.

After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.

The next step is to install the legs.

The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.

After that, the table can be varnished or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.

Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Scheme of the table with the assembly part numbers affixed (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

part number on the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Production material, thickness, mm
1	Folding table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top.	1	600×475	Plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop.	2	530×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
7	Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top.	2	120×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table.	2	720×520	MDF 19 mm
10	The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the pedestal.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the pedestal.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Bottom panel of the drawer.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Drawer handles and drawer doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg piece.	1	80×80×18	Plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture hinges for doors.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) Separate components of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools will be required that are able to bring the workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or a circular saw, is to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size.
	Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or you can make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will dock with the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. In extreme cases, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center.
	Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from the negative influence of the specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compositions. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried out well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls from the inside with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended that, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is used to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the front panel, through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg by 120 mm.
	Having fixed the countertop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then you should not postpone self-production. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: round table assembly example

And one more idea of a kitchen table, which, if incorrect, will also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement independently:

Video: lightweight collapsible kitchen table

The cost per square meter of living space is now only growing. Construction companies initially build many more small apartments, with an area of up to 30m2. In such apartments, every square meter is worth its weight in gold. It is for you, residents of such small apartments, that I decided to make a selection of 11 original folding table ideas with my own hands.

1. Children's table for classes

When closed, the table acts as a chalkboard.

2. Picture table

For adults, for whom a chalkboard is not so important, interpretation in the form of a picture is possible.

3. Folding table in the workshop.

For fans of digging in the garage, there is also the option of using the table as a cover, as well as the tabletop itself.

4. Portable table

The table does not have to be stationary. Variants with portable tables that can be mounted into the wall as a mirror frame are also present.

5. Small shelf for work

A great option for those who do not need a lot of space to work.

6. Modern style laptop table

7. Table-bed

Some private workshops produce entire complexes that combine a bed and a table at the same time. Saves a lot of space.

8. Table-suitcase

Suitcase-type tables are quite common. In addition, additional bottle mounts can be made in the wall. And there will be a kind of bar counter.

9. Sofa table

Those who like to drink tea on the sofa will appreciate it. It is very convenient to put a hot cup on such a table. No need to burn your fingers!

10. "Advanced" side table

A more advanced version of such a sofa stand.

11. Kitchen "table in the wall"

Variation of tables that can be folded at the right time for kitchens.

With it, you can change the location of the feast, as well as take the design to nature. Such a product will not take up much space in the interior, because when you do not use it, the table can be folded and placed outside the door.

Instrument preparation

A folding table with your own hands can be made by any home craftsman who has dealt with wood at least once in his life. However, to carry out these works, you will need a certain set of tools and materials. You should prepare a screwdriver with a keyless chuck and a set of bits, a manual grinder, a tape measure, a pencil, a building level and a right angle.

If there is no grinder, then there is no need to purchase it for one time, it is best to use sandpaper, while you can finish making the table, making its surface smooth. Some modern stores offer consumers to use such equipment for rent.

Preparation of materials

You can complete a folding table with your own hands in one evening if you have all the necessary materials at hand. You will need two types of rails, one of them should have a cross section of 30 mm, while the other should have a cross section of 20 x 40 millimeters. In the first case, you need to prepare four elements, the length of each of which will be 1200 millimeters. The total molding of the latter should be equal to 5 meters.

For the manufacture of countertops, you can use a glued array, which is made of pine. A reliable and durable option will be a countertop, the thickness of which varies from 30 to 40 millimeters. A part is cut out of the workpiece with the following dimensions: 1300 x 650 millimeters. Each component is well processed with sandpaper, and then varnished, which should be done even before the assembly of the structure. The slats that will form the basis of the legs must be rounded in the upper part, and then sanded well.

Additional preparation of elements

A folding table with your own hands is made in sizes that will suit the future owner. But the technology remains the same as described in the article. Thus, in the legs, which have not yet been sawn to length, it is necessary to drill through holes, they will be needed for the frame strips and axle bolts. The diameter for the fasteners should be 8 millimeters, and for the strips, the two holes should have a diameter of 5 millimeters.

In the central part of the bar, a hole should be drilled for the axle bolts, stepping back 430 millimeters from above. Frame strips are marked by eye, but symmetry should be observed.

The nuances of the work

A do-it-yourself folding table is made according to a certain technology, it provides for the creation of goats and countertops, these components should not be fastened together. In the countertop, it is necessary to make grooves where they will be installed, and then the legs will be wedged. Special sockets must be made in such a way that they are fastened to the table top with 4 x 50 mm self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, you can proceed to the assembly of the structure. If you decide to make a folding table with your own hands, then the goats should look like a clamshell, such a system will save space in the house or in the trunk of your car.

Initially, the legs should not be sawn from the bottom, but they should be approximately the same. The axle bolts are also not tightened to the end, so that it is possible to expand the legs. To secure the tolerance, locknuts should be used. The master can purchase absolutely any bolts, however, their length and diameter must be suitable. For legs, for example, 8 x 70 mm bolts should be used. In the grooves of the tabletop, restrictive bolts should be used, the parameters of which are 8 x 120 millimeters.

When built with your own hands, the next step is to install the upper ends of the legs in the unfolded state into the grooves of the table top. The unfinished structure should be placed on any flat surface to determine how much the legs need to be cut off to eliminate length errors. In this case, be sure to use the building level. When adjusting the length, you should not be particularly zealous; to carry out these manipulations, you will need a jigsaw. If the table will be used only in nature, then the generally accepted height of 750 millimeters should be reduced, since you will literally have to sit at such a design on the ground.

Making a coffee folding table

You can also make a folding coffee table with your own hands, its photos are presented in the article. The frame is assembled for confirmations, and you need to use a special drill. Marking on the surface of the chipboard can be done with the help of stickers, since the pencil will not be visible, its lines glare. A transformation mechanism should be installed in the frame, which has the shape of a rectangle, but before that, springs are mounted to help unfold the structure. The mechanism is fixed in a through way, because the weight of the table will be impressive.

Folding legs should hide all technical fasteners and openings. Marking for fasteners can be done in the same way. Through holes for the bolts should be prepared in the next step, then the place for installing the bolt head is indicated with a drill. This fastener will allow you to fix the mechanism, but do not be afraid that the number of fasteners is large enough. The legs look like a rectangle and should be as strong as possible, since the weight of the entire structure is approximately 45 kilograms. Between themselves, these components should be fixed with ties.

A folding table with your own hands, the drawings of which are presented in the article, can be completed by you in one evening. The next step is to screw the legs to the structure itself, for this, the fasteners are initially marked. You can drill in place if you have enough experience. Installation is recommended to be carried out on metal bushings. For this fastener, holes are drilled in the legs. Legs are installed on the four sides, which will hide the technical holes in the frame.

Table top assembly

The table top must be assembled with particular precision, as the hinged unfolding is strong enough to ensure that the elements slide smoothly. It will be quite difficult to keep the hinge in the sockets, and the screws cannot cope with this task. Therefore, other hinges can be purchased. The tabletop of this design is divided into two parts, first a small one is installed, then a large one. On this we can assume that the table is ready for use.

A folding picnic table with your own hands, the drawings of which are presented in the article, can be made according to individual sizes. You can make the design according to the principle of a book-table, which has an attractive appearance. To do this, you need to prepare two legs, a drawer side, an underframe, 4 horizontal and two vertical beams, a movable leg and All cuts must first be edged. After the central part is fastened. The next step is to assemble the tabletop and fix the cover to the ends of the legs. The movable element with a frame is installed on the piano hinges, only after that the table can be assembled completely, and, if necessary, varnished.

Conclusion

When a do-it-yourself folding camping table or any other type of design for eating is being made, the preparation of the details is especially difficult. It is better to entrust their sawing to professionals if you do not have special skills and tools. But each master will be able to do the assembly on their own.

A folding table with your own hands is an indispensable piece of furniture for those who like to relax in nature. The presence of such a piece of furniture allows you to have a picnic in comfort, placing food and drinks not on a bedding, but on a comfortable table. This homemade wooden folding table won't take up much space in your car, and at home you can hide it in a yoga mat cover and hang it on the wall.

Making a roll table

To make a wooden folding table with your own hands, you need to purchase pads with a round section for the manufacture of legs, as well as boards like parquet for the future countertop. In addition, you will need bolts to connect the structural parts. Before starting work, it is recommended to make drawings of the future product indicating the dimensions of all elements.

The thickness of the legs should depend on the degree of load that the finished table will have to withstand. The height of the legs is determined by the preferences of users. In most cases, it is 70-75 cm. The blanks must be cut so as to obtain pads of the desired length. Then blanks for the countertop are cut. All cuts should be treated with coarse sandpaper, as the cuts formed by the saw are uneven and can injure a person.

At the next stage, you need to make the countertop yourself in accordance with the prepared drawings. Most craftsmen prefer to make it square or rectangular, although this technology can also be used to make a round or oval tabletop.

To work, you will need nylon tape (similar to those used to make the handles of sports bags and school bags). Two fragments should be cut from the tape, equal to the length of the future countertop, and then the edges of these fragments must be treated with fire.

The boards of the countertop should be located at the same distance from each other (this is true for both rectangular and round products). To achieve the desired result, you can use two small boards that need to be laid between the boards to be joined. Homemade boards are placed upside down and nylon strips are attached to them with staples and a hammer.

Along the edges of the structure, in accordance with the drawing, two removable wooden planks are placed with pre-drilled holes for bolts, to which removable legs will be attached. Thanks to these planks, the countertop will be durable and will hold its shape.

The next step is to make holes inside the wooden legs with a drill, and then install the threads for the bolts.

Now the design is ready.

When assembled, such a home-made table looks like an ordinary stationary one, and when disassembled, it is easily wound into a roll, inside of which legs and side planks are inserted. Now you can put it in a rug case and hang it on the wall.

Folding table from an old stool

Very easily and quickly, without special drawings, you can make a square or round collapsible table from an old stool and any material that is suitable for making a table top. Such a product can be hung on the wall in a garage or utility room for storage.

For work, you need an old Soviet stool with unscrewing legs.

From the stool you only need a silumin frame, which should be unscrewed from and divided into 4 equal fragments with a hacksaw.

After that, you need to make a countertop of arbitrary shape (square, rectangular, round). For these purposes, any material at hand is suitable - chipboard, plywood, a piece of plastic window sill. The size of the countertop can be arbitrary, but before assembling the product, it is recommended to prepare its drawing, this will help to avoid errors when taking measurements.

You can, for example, take two pieces of plywood 1 cm thick, glue them together with PVA glue, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws. After that, the corners of the product must be rounded with a jigsaw so that the sharp corners of the countertop do not become a source of injury. The round table should also have an edge trimmed so that it is smooth and safe enough. The finished tabletop must be covered with stain and two layers of varnish, and then left to dry completely. At this time, you can, for example, hang it on the wall by attaching a special loop to it.

When the countertop is completely dry, 4 parts of the sawn frame of the stool should be attached to its corners. The margins from the edges are calculated in such a way that the screwed-in legs do not protrude beyond the edges of the tabletop. The legs for the table can be made from a bar with a round section or a polypropylene water pipe. You can also take ready-made legs from an old table or a tube TV.

For work, you will also need a stud with an M10 thread, which should be divided into 4 fragments of 8-10 cm each. Then, tape must be wound on the stud so that the stud fits snugly into the propylene pipe or hole drilled in the bar for future threading. If necessary (to increase the volume), a piece of garden hose can be put on top of the hairpin. This design should fit snugly into the hole in the leg. It must be placed strictly in the center.

The hairpin should protrude from the pipe by about 1.5 cm - this is the honor that will be screwed into the silumin frame.

Then the space between the stud and the pipe wall must be filled with epoxy resin, and left for a day until completely hardened.

The product is ready! Such a table can be easily placed in the trunk of a car or hung on the wall.

Not everyone was lucky enough to be the owner of a large kitchen, but in small ones every square centimeter counts. Therefore, folding tables are so fond of our compatriots. The article discusses some wooden structures, accompanied by drawings, calculation of materials and assembly recommendations.

You can make a folding table with your own hands, for this you need to arm yourself with ready-made drawings or develop your own, and also stock up on tools and materials. The table can have a different shape and area, but in order for it to occupy a small area, you need to make it in the form of a transformer.

hinged table

Such a table practically does not take up space in the kitchen until it is needed, it is easy to unfold and assemble, and it is quite simple to make such a design. The table is a load-bearing part, fixed on the wall, and reclining if necessary. Moreover, chains, mechanical or folding brackets - wooden or metal scarves and frames, as well as one or two legs folding under the base can serve as limiters and supports.

Hanging table options

The drawings below will give hints for manufacturing.

Hanging table with support - telescopic bracket. 1. Tabletop. 2. Furniture hinges. 3. Telescopic legs

Table drawing: support - folding frame made of bars

In addition, watch a video about the process of making a table with folding stops, hanging on a tiled wall.

Stages of manufacturing the original hinged table

And now let's make a combined buffet table for the kitchen.

We will prepare boards (plates) with the dimensions indicated on the drawing. To do this, we apply markings, carefully cut out, and then grind each surface with sandpaper or a grinding machine.
Using screws, we assemble the frame, checking the accuracy of the exposed elements with a square and a level. We fasten the side of the upper shelf with carpentry glue. The middle shelf can be fixed with self-tapping screws through vertical walls or with shelf holders - furniture corners (corner screed).
We fix the piano (continuous) hinge or several separate hinges in a row with screws to the bottom of the frame. We attach the second part of the hinges to the inside of the tabletop. If the canvas is not strong enough, you can add two or three stiffeners from the outside.
We screw the loops on the side surfaces of the frame and in the corners of the table top from the inside. We fix the chains by adjusting them in length until the table top is completely horizontal in the open state. We close the tabletop door, mark the places for hooks and eyelets on the end surfaces of the cupboard and table on both sides, and screw in the fittings. Now the tabletop is fixed in a vertical (folded) position.
On the back side of the frame we attach loops for hanging on the wall. If desired, the sideboard can be sewn up at the back with plywood or left open.
We paint the surface with a bright, glossy varnish. The buffet table is ready!

Folding kitchen table with cabinet

Consider two designs of a folding table with a cabinet. The first in the kitchen takes up more space, but has a drawer and shelves in the cabinet, which are useful for storing small things. The second one is on wheels, narrow, and can be built into the line of kitchen furniture.

Stationary folding table with cabinet-shelves

Let's try to make a table-cabinet, as in the photo below.

For the manufacture of the table, we need a jigsaw, a screwdriver, for the grooves for the hinges - a milling cutter or a crown-nozzle for a screwdriver or drill.

Preparing elements. Examine the drawings and prepare elements with the dimensions and materials shown in the table.

Table 1. Calculation of materials

Drawing Position	Detail	Quantity, pcs.	Size, mm	Material
1	Flip top panel	1	600x600	plywood 25 mm
2	Stationary tabletop panel	1	600x475	plywood 25 mm
3	Wide part of the guides for the retractable leg on the folding part	2	530x30	plywood 18 mm
4	Wide part of the guides for the retractable leg on the fixed part	2	120x30	plywood 18 mm
5	Upper leg limiter	1	122x30	plywood 18 mm
6	The narrow part of the guides for the retractable leg on the folding part	2	530x20	plywood 18 mm
7	The narrow part of the guides for the retractable leg on the stationary part	2	120x20	plywood 18 mm
8	Lower leg limiter	1	122*20	plywood 18 mm
9	Side walls of cabinet	2	720x520	MDF board 19mm
10	Horizontal pedestal elements	3	520x312	MDF board 19 mm
11	Vertical divider between shelves	1	418x312	MDF board 19 mm
12	Wall - box movement limiter	1	312x184	MDF board 19 mm
13	Shelf	1	310x250	MDF board 19 mm
14	door	1	447x346	MDF board 19 mm
15	Shelf	1	310x250	MDF board 19 mm
16	Decorative drawer front	1	346x209	MDF board 19 mm
17	Drawer front panel	1	310x150	MDF board 19 mm
18	Side walls of the drawer	2	341х150	MDF board 19 mm
19	Back wall of the drawer	1	272x120	MDF board 19 mm
20	Bottom	1	341х272	MDF board 19 mm
	Planks covering the bottom of the cabinet from the end	2	300x20	plywood δ5 mm
	Retractable leg	1	h 702mm, Ø: 55 mm top, 30 mm bottom	wood
	Leg head moving on assembled rails	1	80x80	plywood δ18 mm
Fittings and purchased items
	Door and drawer handles	2
	Drawer guides	2
	Furniture hinges for tilting the tabletop	2
	Cabinet door hinges	2
	Furniture edge for open ends of slabs		6-8 m

On the details of pos. 1 Draw an arc, which will be the rounded edge of the flip-out part of the tabletop, using a homemade compass: carnation, thread and pencil. Position the nail exactly along the axis of the workpiece. Cut out the arc with a jigsaw.
On a flat surface, lay the two pieces of the table top side by side, flat side together. Using a milling cutter or crown, drill grooves according to the size of the hidden butterfly loops. Fasten the hinges with self-tapping screws. Before you start drilling, attach the loops to the workpieces and mark with a pencil.
On the reverse side of the tabletop from the details of pos. 3-8, form and fix with self-tapping screws the guides with an emphasis - a channel for the movement of the legs. Details pos. 5 and 8 cut at 45°. Please note that the ends of the upper slats (pos. 3 and 4), directed to the junction of the tabletops, are sawn down at 45 °, otherwise they will prevent them from folding. On the retractable leg, fix the head - a square of plywood that will move along the guides. Insert the leg head into the canal and check its movement. If something interferes - you need to grind it. Paint or varnish the countertop.
All details of the pedestal pos. 9-20 cut out with a jigsaw, router or manually level the edges. On the end surfaces that will be visible, fix the furniture edge with an iron. Stepping back about 100 mm from the edge and marking the door and side wall of the cabinet, drill holes for the hinges. Attach the handle to the door.
Color the cabinet details. Using a square and level, assemble the cabinet according to the drawings, starting from the bottom. To fasten the elements, use wooden rods, self-tapping screws and wood glue. Fix the guides in the place where the drawer moves.
Make the drawer by controlling the right angles and the diagonal. Fasten the guides on the side walls. Fix the front panel and the handle.
Install the table top. To do this, fix the stationary part on the cabinet with wood glue, and then fix it on the inside with self-tapping screws. Insert a box.

The table is ready!

Narrow table-book on wheels

Now let's make another table that can fold compactly and open one or two folding tabletops. For ease of movement, the design is complemented by wheels.

All nodes and details are made of chipboard, the edges are trimmed with furniture edges. The table can be painted, laminated with a film or varnished. Consumption and dimensions of parts are shown in table 2.

table 2

We will make a base frame according to the above diagram. To do this, we use wooden rods, screws and glue. U-shaped wheels are mounted on self-tapping screws.

Now you need to assemble two supports under the countertops, which, when closed, are removed under the base.
We fix the supports to the base with the help of piano hinges. Optionally, you can fix them on one or two racks. We control the assembly with a level, and upon completion we check how the parts move relative to each other.

We attach the table tops to the base also on piano hinges. If you are worried that the leg will “leave”, attach a corner on the inside of the tabletops - a movement limiter.
If you want the wheels to not be visible when folded (when stored in a niche of kitchen furniture), add a plinth to the base by cutting a groove under it in the stiffening rib.

In conclusion, watch a video on how to make a sliding table in the kitchen yourself.