Proper agricultural practices for growing tomatoes. Growing tomatoes in open ground Tomatoes in open ground care

In this article we will talk about the most difficult part of care, which raises many questions among novice gardeners - the formation of plants, as well as about what everything was started for - harvesting.

Tomatoes

Why formation is needed

The formation of tomato bushes includes the removal of leaves, pinching, thinning ovaries and pinching. It is an important part of growing tomatoes, especially in regions with a short warm season. The purpose of formation is the direction of nutrients for the growth and development of fruits on a limited number of inflorescences. If this is not done, the yield will depend on the characteristics of the variety (or hybrid) and external conditions.

According to the type of bush growth, tomatoes are divided into determinant and indeterminate. Determinant, in turn, can be simply determinant, semi-determinant, and superdeterminant.

Indeterminate varieties grow constantly until they die. This means that bushes of such varieties grow tall and give a good harvest. They are suitable for growing in greenhouses and in warm climates. They need to be tied up as they grow and shaped. Usually such bushes lead into one stem, removing all stepchildren (see below).

We tie up the stem

Determinate varieties stop growing after the formation of a certain number of inflorescences (usually three to five). In superdeterminant varieties, only 2-3 inflorescences form on the main stem, inflorescences quickly form on all shoots, resulting in a highly branched low bush. Semi-determinant varieties stop growing after the formation of 6-12 inflorescences.

In addition, determinant varieties can be ordinary and standard. Standard have a dense erect stem, most often not requiring a garter of bushes.

The higher the degree of determinancy, the less effort is required to form bushes. Those. indeterminate varieties need to be constantly pinched and tied up, and standard superdeterminant varieties most often do not need to be pinched or tied up.

From each leaf axil (from where the leaf departs from the stem) a lateral shoot can grow - stepson. Each stepchild becomes an additional stem. Stepchildren can also grow from the leaf axils of stepchildren. If all this additional "wealth" is not removed, the bush will be very branched (the lower the degree of determinancy, the greater the branching). Each stepson takes nutrients from the bush that could be used for the formation and ripening of fruits. The conclusion is simple - extra stepchildren need to be removed.

Stepson

How many stepchildren you leave, so many stems the bush will have. Indeterminate varieties usually lead to a single stem. In determinants, depending on the degree of determinism and external conditions, 2, 3 or even more stems are left.

The sooner the stepson is removed, the less nutrients the plant will spend on its growth. Therefore, stepchildren are best removed before they reach a length of 3-5 cm. In addition, when overgrown stepchildren are removed, large wounds remain on the stem. It is better to remove stepchildren in the morning, in warm, dry weather, so that the wounds heal faster. In cloudy and humid weather, the likelihood of infection and rotting of the stem increases.

To remove the stepson, simply pinch it off, leaving a small stump (about a centimeter). The left stump prevents the stepson from re-growth in this place. If the stem of the stepchild is already thick and cannot be pinched off, break it out to the side, but not down, so that the “tail” from the skin does not stretch behind it.

Delete stepson

When pinching, as with other work with tomatoes, there is a possibility of transferring the infection from diseased bushes to healthy ones. To reduce this chance, work with the healthiest-looking bushes first, and pile the removed parts of the plants in a separate pile and, if possible, burn.

Ruffled Bottom Stepson

Removing leaves

We figured out the stepchildren, but why remove the leaves? The leaf of any plant is its full-fledged organ, necessary for life. However, the leaves age, dry out, get sick - they should be removed so that the disease does not pass to healthy parts of the plant.

Lower leaves that come into contact with the soil should be removed to prevent disease development, even if those leaves look healthy.

It is also useful to remove leaves that are in the shade of other leaves to lighten the bush. Such leaves cannot fully participate in photosynthesis, and you can get rid of them.

Each brush has its own feeding leaves (2-3 leaves that are above the brush). When the ovaries are formed, they are fed by the products of photosynthesis occurring in the leaves. Green fruits are nourished by their nourishing leaves and additionally carry out photosynthesis themselves. As the fruits grow, they no longer receive nutrition from the leaves, but feed on the products of photosynthesis performed by the fruits themselves, as a result of which at this stage they have an increased need for direct sunlight.

Leaves can begin to be cut off when fruits begin to set on the first brush of the bush. It is impossible to remove all “unnecessary” leaves at once, this creates stress for the plant, which slows down development. It is recommended to remove no more than two or three leaves at a time, taking breaks for several days. The leaves are broken out to the side, not down, otherwise a large piece of skin may be removed from the trunk.

Leaves should be removed in the climate of central Russia in such a way that under the brush with green fruits that have already reached their size, but not yet ripened, all leaves are removed.

After removing the lower leaves, the leaves formed on the main stem between the first and second fruit clusters are removed. This can be done after the fruits have started on the second brush. When the fruits appear on the third brush, all leaves growing below it are removed from the stem. Then follow the same pattern until only 4 leaves remain on the single stem of the plant, which have grown at the very top. The leaves above the uppermost brush are necessary so as not to disturb the movement of the juice inside the plant.

To get large fruits of the correct shape, you can thin out the ovaries. When growing large-fruited varieties, no more than six fruits are left in each brush, removing extra small ovaries and the first irregular multi-petalled flowers, from which large, but ugly fruits are formed.

We thin out the ovary

Pinching

In the middle lane, usually only those tomatoes that are tied up before the beginning of August have time to ripen. The ovaries that appear later take away nutrients and delay the ripening of already existing fruits. Therefore, new flower brushes should be removed.

Delete the flower brush

It is often recommended to pinch the crown of the tomato bush at the end of the season to stop the growth of the plant. However, often at the same time, stepchildren begin to appear from the axils of the previously removed leaves, selecting nutrients that could be used to ripen the fruit. So if you pinch the tops, take care to remove the stepchildren that appear.

Harvest

The growth of the fruit stops when the seeds formed in it are covered with a hard shell. The fruit at this time is still green, but already lighter than before. Such fruits tolerate long-term transportation and storage well. If the optimum temperature (23-23˚С) is provided, after about a week they will acquire the color characteristic of their variety.

In the middle lane on the bushes, all the fruits never ripen. Therefore, at the end of the season (usually this is the beginning of September) or in case of a threat of late blight, green fruits are collected, put in boxes or on racks, and periodically checked, selecting ripe and diseased ones.

You can dig up the plants along with the fruits and hang them in a room with a temperature of 12-14˚C. When stored this way, tomatoes can even gain weight by getting nutrients from the stems and leaves.

It is no secret that tomatoes are the most beloved crop, which gardeners grow with love in their plots. There are special methods of agricultural technology of tomato crops. In our article, we have collected the most valuable suggestions for caring for tomatoes.

Main types of care work

In order for tomatoes to please with their harvest, it is required to perform a set of specific work on caring for tomatoes after planting:

• loosening, mulching between rows and hilling tomatoes;
• destruction of weeds;
• watering;
• top dressing;
• garter of tomatoes;
• the formation of bushes (pasynkovanie);
• disease prevention.

Loosening, mulching row spacing and hilling

Periodic loosening of garden plants is equivalent to watering. After this operation, oxygen access to the root system and a better supply of nutrients increase.

The appearance of a continuous compacted earthen crust is not allowed. Row spacing should be mulched with grass clippings, sawdust, peat moss, newsprint and cardboard. It is useful to mulch plants with humus mixed with sawdust. Mulching is very useful for tomatoes, it helps to retain moisture.

During the growth period, tomatoes should be spudded several times. This procedure promotes the appearance of additional roots. The plant becomes stronger and more resistant to various adverse natural factors.

Weed control

Weed control is the key to growing a large and healthy tomato crop. As you know, weeds are spreaders of many tomato diseases: late blight, viral mosaic, bacterial spot, etc.

How to water

When planting a tomato, the hole should be spilled with a sufficient amount of water. The next watering should be done only after two weeks. Moisture during planting will be enough for reliable rooting and growth. The root will go deeper and in a dry summer it will be able to maintain the water balance of the plant. Otherwise, tomato bushes will grow a weak root system, which will not spread in depth, but on the sides.

Tomatoes like regular plentiful, but not frequent watering. Tomatoes are not recommended to be watered with cold tap water. It is better if the water is settled and warm. It is better to water the plants in the morning, under the root system. Sprinkling is an unacceptable way of watering a tomato; temperature differences in the atmosphere and on the soil can lead to shedding of flowers and cause diseases.

top dressing

For a plentiful harvest of tomatoes and large-sized fruits, fertilizing plants with fertilizers is required. Experienced gardeners usually feed tomatoes four times a season. It is important to know that top dressing is carried out after watering the plants in order to avoid burning the root system.

It should be remembered that fertilizers containing nitrogen enhance the growth of green plant mass and slow down the ripeness of tomatoes. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are good to use at the stage of fruit ripening.

Experienced gardeners prefer to feed tomatoes with organic fertilizers: cow and horse manure, bird droppings, fermented green grass contain many plant nutrients and serve as a complete organic fertilizer.

We offer recipes for dressing tomatoes for the season:

1. The first time tomatoes should be fed 14 days after planting. Pour 500 ml of liquid manure solution and 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska into a bucket of water (10 l). Feeding rate - 500 ml per plant bush.
2. The second top dressing of a tomato is carried out at the stage of the appearance of a flower brush. In a bucket of water (10 l) pour 500 ml of liquid manure solution, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate. Under each tomato bush, 500 ml of the mixture must be added.
3. The third top dressing is needed at the stage of formation of the ovary. In a bucket of water (10 l) add 1 tablespoon of potassium humate and 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska. 5 liters of top dressing is required per 1 sq.m.
4. The last top dressing is carried out at the ripening stage of tomatoes. In a bucket of water (10 l) add 1 tablespoon of superphosphate. The required feeding rate is 10 liters per 1 sq.m.

Garter

Proper garter of tomatoes will ensure ventilation of the crown of the bush, strengthen the stem of the plant and prevent it from breaking under the weight of the fruit. Pegs can be dug into the holes already when planting a tomato. The stalk of the tomato is attached to the peg with soft twine as the bush grows.

For tall tomatoes, you can use tying on a trellis. In this case, tomato bushes are planted in a row. After 70 cm, supports (wooden, plastic, metal) are driven in. A rope or wire is stretched between them at several levels with a distance of 30-40 cm. With subsequent growth, the plants are attached to the trellis with soft twine.

Tied tomatoes are easier to care for, fertilize, water and mulch the soil.

Formation of bushes (pasynkovanie)

The correct formation of a tomato bush ensures that ripe tomatoes are obtained much earlier than expected, and the quality and quantity of the crop exceed all expectations. Usually the plant is formed on 1 or 2 stems. When a tomato bush is formed into one stem, all lateral axillary shoots are removed.

And if the plant is formed on two stems, you should leave a side shoot near the first brush. All other stepchildren are removed in a timely manner, preventing them from growing more than 4-5 cm. It is better to break out stepchildren, leaving a column 1 cm long. It will not allow a side shoot to form in the same place.

If you do not remove the stepchildren, the tomatoes will grow strongly into a green mass with many shoots and flower brushes. Due to the short growing season, the fruits will not have time to ripen, they will be small and lose their taste.

Closer to the third decade of August, you should pinch the tops of the plants and remove the flower brushes without ovaries, which will allow the fastest ripening of the fruit. Tomato care in autumn: in early September, a tomato stem is cut at a height of 10 cm from the ground. This prevents nutrients from entering the stem of the plant and will cause the tomatoes to ripen faster.

Disease prevention

It is easier to prevent tomato diseases than to treat them later. During the season, tomatoes should be sprayed 2-3 times with special mixtures to avoid the appearance of fungal, viral and bacterial diseases. We offer several recipes for preventive spraying of tomatoes from experienced gardeners.

1. From late blight, spraying plants with a solution of kefir helps. For 10 liters of water, 1 liter of kefir of any fat content is added. Plants should be treated for the first time 14 days after planting. Then three more times with a break of 7 days.
2. The soil under the tomatoes is sprinkled with ash. Or you can sprinkle the plants with sifted ash.
3. Recently, Magic Balm has been popular among gardeners. This cocktail will serve as a good prevention against diseases, as well as perfectly feed the tomatoes. A bucket of cow dung, 2 shovels of ash, 4 buckets of nettles, 3 liters of whey and 2 kg of yeast are placed in a 200 l barrel. Fill with water, insist 14 days. The consumption rate of the solution is 1 liter under a tomato bush every 10 days. They say that after such processing, tomatoes grow by leaps and bounds!

Features of care in the greenhouse

There are many similarities in growing and caring for tomatoes in the open field and in the greenhouse, but there are certain features. Plants grown in a greenhouse are more sensitive to temperature changes, drafts, and diseases.

The first watering of tomatoes in the greenhouse should be taken no earlier than 14 days after planting. You should strictly adhere to the norm of watering: 4 liters of water per 1 sq.m before flowering and 12 liters of water per 1 sq.m during the appearance of flowers and until the very formation of fruits. Watering should be done about once a week.

Regular ventilation in the greenhouse is an important condition in growing tomatoes. High humidity prevents pollination of flowers and increases the risk of disease.

In greenhouses, along with natural pollination, artificial pollination is used. In sunny weather, tomato brushes are gently shaken, this process enhances the formation of ovaries.

- the task for gardeners is very important. Tomatoes are a popular vegetable, and every summer resident should know how to grow them and get a good harvest. So what are the nuances and features of caring for tomatoes growing in the open field? What "operations" will the gardener need to perform? You will find the answer by reading the article.

Conditions for growing tomatoes

Each plant thrives in a particular environment. This primarily concerns temperature, amount of light and soil characteristics. Outdoor tomatoes also have certain conditions. The plant loves light and warmth. In the open field, this is easier to ensure than.

The seed germination temperature ranges from 9 to 14 degrees, depending on the varieties. For normal growth in open ground, tomatoes need well-moistened soil and many sunny days.

All these conditions are found in our country and in the Moscow region, and in the Urals, and in some northern regions.

Caring for tomatoes in the open field

To get a rich harvest, the plant needs to be looked after. Care for tomatoes in the open field largely depends on the variety, but there are general rules. With their observance, the plant will develop actively, and bear many fruits. Let's take a look at how to care for tomatoes step by step.

Care of seedlings after planting in open ground

Tomatoes in our country begin to be grown in winter, in the form of seedlings. Already grown plants are planted in open ground.

And here it is important to carry out a number of activities that will improve the survival of tomatoes in a new place:

The plant receives nutrition from lateral roots. Because of this, tomatoes are planted in open ground so that they are lower than before. If the seedlings are tall, then they are placed in the hole at an angle.

Proper watering

Caring for outdoor tomatoes includes several main types of work. First of all - proper watering. The plant loves moisture, but you can not overdo it.

In order for tomatoes to grow well in open ground, adhere to the following recommendations:

Moisture when growing tomatoes in open ground also affects the "health" of plants. With excesses, phytophthora and gray rot appear. If there is not enough moisture, then the tomatoes suffer from blossom end rot.

tillage

The activities for the care of tomatoes, when grown in open ground, include work on the ground. This includes weeding, hilling, loosening and. They are aimed at strengthening the root system, and at retaining moisture in the ground.

Loosening and mulching

After watering, the soil becomes dense. As a result, insufficient oxygen is supplied to the roots of the plant. To avoid this, care for outdoor tomatoes includes loosening.

The procedure is carried out after each watering, while:

• The first loosening is done to a depth of at least 10 cm. The soil becomes porous and easily saturated with oxygen.
• Each subsequent loosening is carried out to a depth of 5 cm. The work does not allow the soil, especially around the root, to be compacted.

Loosening must be done carefully, especially around the tomato trunk. Porous soil has a large surface area, which increases evaporation. To prevent the soil from drying out, lay the mulch. For this, chopped grass is used. Other means are also used for mulch - humus or a special film.

It is impossible to cover the soil immediately after landing. If the tomato mulching is not done using a dark film, then the soil will not warm up enough. For this reason, the procedure is carried out only after rooting and the beginning of active growth of the plant.

Weeding

Care for tomatoes in the open field includes the removal of weeds.

Weeding is needed for the following reasons:

• weeds “take away” moisture and nutrients from tomatoes;
• grass, especially in the first time after planting seedlings, grows more actively and covers the sun's rays;
• diseases are transmitted from weeds to tomatoes.

Weeding is carried out simultaneously with loosening the soil. When the tomato bush grows and fruits are formed, weeds are removed as they are found. During this period, loosening after each watering will be difficult to do.

There is a lot of controversy associated with this procedure. Not all gardeners are sure of its necessity.

The following speaks in favor of hilling:

All this speaks to the benefits of doing this work. Experienced gardeners point out the signs when you need to spud tomatoes. If white root formations appear in the lower part of the trunk, then we are talking about a lack of nutrients. In such a situation, hilling will help.

The procedure is carried out 2 times per season. The first hilling of tomatoes is performed 10-15 days after planting seedlings. Next one in 2-3 weeks. If after that additional roots continue to form, then hilling is performed again.

Fertilizer

Without good feeding and processing, it is difficult to grow a tomato in the open field. Fertilize before planting. It is best to add humus. If fresh manure is used, then top dressing is carried out in the fall.

Fertilize tomatoes in open ground in two ways:

For root feeding of tomatoes when grown in open ground, organic and mineral fertilizers are used:

• chicken manure;
• manure;
• humus;
• compost;
• ammonium nitrate;
• potassium sulfate;

Video about feeding tomatoes with yeast and pinching:

Bush formation

When caring for tomatoes when they are grown in open ground, all stages are important. The formation of the bush is also included in the list of mandatory work. This procedure consists of several steps, some of which can be skipped depending on the variety of tomatoes.

pasynkovanie

With the growth of nightshade, which includes tomatoes, a large number of shoots from the main stem are formed. Each of them takes strength from the plant. As a result, the crop does not have time to ripen. To prevent this from happening, tomatoes need to be pinched.

When growing tomatoes in open ground, this work is carried out taking into account the following:

The main stem of a tomato is considered to be the one on which the first inflorescence appeared. If the variety is superdeterminant, then 2-3 shoots are left on the bush. When using determinant and non-determinate tomatoes for growing in open ground, one main stem is left. In this case, the harvest can be obtained earlier.

Tomatoes without pinching

Not all varieties of tomatoes grown in the open field should be removed stepchildren. There are tomatoes that do not require pinching.

They self-limit their growth. Breeders have bred varieties belonging to the group semi-determinant. The height of tomato bushes does not exceed 50-76 cm. Its growth ends after the formation of 3-4 inflorescences.

Topping

On each tomato bush grown in open ground, a large number of inflorescences are formed. This is especially true for high-grade varieties. The gardener's practice shows that only 2-3 bunches of tomatoes have time to ripen.

• Work is carried out at the end of July, after the formation of the required number of inflorescences.
• If we are talking about tall tomato varieties, then pinching is done several times during the season.
• The operation itself consists in trimming the top of the stem.
• At the same time, 2-3 leaves should remain on top of the last inflorescence.

Removing leaves

Another type of work on the formation of a tomato bush when grown in open ground is the removal of part of the tops.

The operation is necessary for the following reasons:

• yellowed and rotten leaves are removed;
• better air circulation near the soil is provided, which reduces the risk of infection with diseases;
• accelerated fruit ripening.

The operation is performed 30-40 days after planting. It should be removed in warm and dry weather, this will allow the "wounds" to dry out faster. At first, only the lower leaves located directly above the soil surface are cut off. Gradually, once a week, rise higher. When tomatoes begin to turn brown in the lower bunch of fruits, 1-2 leaves should remain under them.

How to grow more crops?

Any gardener and summer resident is pleased to receive a large harvest with large fruits. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to get the desired result.

Often plants lack nutrition and useful minerals

It has the following properties:

• Allows increase yield by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
• You can get good harvest even on low-fertility soils and in adverse climatic conditions
• Absolutely safe

Installing stakes and tying

Tomato bushes, when grown outdoors, need to be protected from many problems. Large tomatoes can break the stems, on the ground the plant is attacked by pests, the surrounding foliage blocks the sun. All these problems are solved by gartering tomato bushes.

To do this, the stems are attached to the support, as the latter are:

And the chosen design needs to attach the stems of tomato bushes. This can be done in different ways. If funds are available, special clips are purchased. Gardeners also manage with improvised means - they simply tie the stems with suitable ropes.

The stems are attached to the supports with different knots, the easiest way is a free loop:

• The method is used when attaching tomatoes to trellises.
• They are tied to individual stakes with a figure eight.
• The trunk is wrapped with a rope, crossed and fixed to a support.

Diseases and pests

It is impossible to imagine caring for tomatoes when grown outdoors without fighting the "ailments" of the plant. Tomatoes are endangered by both disease and insect pests. For this reason, the gardener must know how to face the dangers.

Prevention of diseases and pests

It is best to prevent danger.

It is mandatory to use preventive measures:

As a disease prevention, spraying is used by special and folk methods. Of the chemicals, potassium permanganate, boric acid, copper and special preparations are used.

Gardeners often prefer to use folk, safe means.

Prevention of late blight is carried out using a 10% saline solution, for this:

• 1 kg of table salt is diluted in 10 liters of water;
• plants are sprayed with the resulting agent.

Also, solutions based on fresh manure or ordinary wood tinder fungus are used.

Pest control

When growing tomatoes in open ground, insects and other animals create many problems. They are dealt with in different ways.

Name of the pest	Description and methods of struggle
Cruciferous potato flea	Affects when grown outdoors. Used to fight infusion of celandine, onion, garlic. Another tool - and tobacco dust. Prevention - preventing the appearance of weeds and the absence of nearby plantings of other nightshade.
scoop	The caterpillar eats both the leaves and flowers, as well as the fruits of the vegetable. For prevention use infusion of burdock, calendula, garlic. Insecticides are used to control.
Potato	Pest prevention is carried out using decoctions from the leaves of tomato, potato, tobacco.
	In warm regions, slugs become a big problem. To protect tomatoes in the open field, the beds around the perimeter are showered slaked lime. Another remedy is planting plantations with plants such as parsley, Mistakes when growing tomatoes Caring for outdoor tomatoes is quite complicated. If at least one major mistake is made, a good harvest cannot be expected. Typical “misses” of gardeners include: Wrong choice of variety. Often purchased varieties intended for greenhouses. Even if the weather in the region is warm, such tomatoes grow poorly in the open field. Choosing the wrong place. Tomatoes do not like acidic soil. And also the place is chosen sunny. Ignoring landing frequency recommendations. Tomatoes are large plants that need a lot of space. Reluctance to "mess around" with the formation of a bush. A large number of ovaries does not always indicate a rich harvest. It is also important to observe the regime of feeding and watering. In both cases, "overdoing" is impossible. Everything should be in moderation. Harvest Experienced gardeners do not wait for tomatoes to fully ripen. Collect brown fruits. In this case, the tomatoes will remain fresh for a long time. Harvesting is carried out in the morning, at this time the fruits are elastic and lie longer. It is desirable that there is no moisture on the surface of the tomatoes. During harvesting, spoiled fruits are also collected. This will prevent the spread of the disease. Useful video about caring for tomatoes before harvesting: Conclusion Tomatoes are a favorite vegetable in domestic gardens. Outdoor plant care involves a lot of work. The first is the selection and preparation of a place and planting seedlings. After a week, you need to start watering, loosening and removing weeds. The list of works includes the formation of bushes, the installation of supports and garters, as well as pest and disease control. If you do not make mistakes and follow the recommendations, then the harvest will certainly please.

Tomato is probably one of the most beloved and popular vegetables. There is not a single kitchen in the world where it would not be used. Tomatoes are added to salads, snacks, cold and hot dishes, they are pickled and canned. A huge number of different varieties allows you to choose your favorite, and not just one. Therefore, each owner of a personal plot necessarily breeds tomatoes.

When growing tomatoes in the open field, it is worth remembering that the varieties for it are special, different from the crops for greenhouses, how the planting and care of the tomatoes differ, because in the first version, the vegetables are in more difficult conditions.

Varieties for greenhouses are afraid of temperature changes, so they will get sick on open soil, and vice versa, tomatoes intended for it will not be able to get along in a greenhouse, giving a poor harvest.

In varieties intended for open ground, the ripening period is much shorter than in greenhouses, they are more hardy and resistant to cold. Most often this undersized and early maturing plants, sometimes - sredneroslye. The most suitable for growing in open ground are considered superdeterminant and determinant varieties.

The advantage is that the crop ripens before the onset of cold weather, the minus is small fruits and a short fruiting period. The second ones are later, have more inflorescences and larger fruits.

Those who have been planting tomatoes for more than a year have their own selected varieties that grow best on their soil. Seeds from them are carefully collected for harvesting for the next season from the healthiest and most productive bushes.

If you are buying seeds for planting for the first time, pay attention to all the nuances. Do not buy seeds in unverified places and carefully study the packaging - the right varieties will be labeled accordingly.

One of the key indicators is ripening period tomatoes. The easiest to care varieties that grow and ripen quickly, but usually they are smaller and taste worse than those that ripen for a long time and are saturated with useful elements. Late varieties will bring an excellent tasty harvest, but caring for them is more difficult. For open ground, some of the most popular are:

All these tomatoes are quite easy to care for, bring a good harvest and are excellent at resisting diseases.

Seedling is an important stage of the future harvest

If in the southern places the seeds are usually sown directly into the soil, then in cooler latitudes, for a start it is necessary prepare seedlings. This is one of the most important stages, cheating on which you will not get a good harvest even under all other favorable conditions.

Seedlings require a lot of light and are best kept on the south side of windows. If it is not enough, the sprouts must be provided with additional illumination.

Land for seedlings must be prepared in advance, since autumn, but you can buy it in the store. The soil for growing is better to take more light and not overly fertile, if it is too poor, dilute with humus with a small amount of ash. If you take the soil from the beds, it is absolutely impossible to use the one that was under the tomatoes or potatoes.

Seedlings can be bought ready-made, but choose carefully! Sprouts should be strong, healthy, without signs of yellowness. Too long and overgrown plants are not the best choice for planting.

A few weeks before transplanting seedlings, it needs to be hardened off so that the sprouts can more easily adapt to open ground conditions. For this, seedlings periodically take out to the street, gradually increasing the time, at the end you can leave it overnight if the frosts are over.

Disembarkation dates

The timing of planting tomatoes in open ground depends from weather conditions in your area. The warmer and faster the cold ends, the earlier the tomatoes are planted. In the south, planting begins already in mid-May, in the middle lane it is the end of May - the beginning of June, but in the north, tomatoes are planted no earlier than the first decade of June and even closer to the middle of the month.

In addition to the above, the landing time also depends from a variety of tomatoes and their maturity dates. Early-ripening fruits are planted later, and those that ripen for a long time should be placed in the ground as early as possible.

Site selection and soil preparation

Not all areas are suitable for growing tomatoes in open ground. In order for tomatoes to feel comfortable and give a good harvest, the planting site must meet certain requirements:

For growing this delicious vegetable, soil with neutral acidity, light loamy and sandy rich in humus. The soil for tomato seedlings needs to be prepared in the fall. They fertilize it with manure, when digging, superphosphate and potassium chloride are used, having previously cleaned it and removed weeds and plant debris.

If the soil was not fertilized in the fall, be sure to treat it with additional saltpeter in the spring (in addition to all of the above). Ashes and compost (1.5 cups per bucket) will also be a useful mixture for tomatoes. The main thing is not to overdo it with fertilizers, as this will cause increased plant growth, but the fruits will not set well. After fertilizing the soil, let it rest and warm up for a couple of days, and only then plant seedlings.

disembarkation

In order for the plants to sprout at the same time, plant them at the same depth. The depth of the holes should be identical to the height of the pots in which the seedlings germinated. In order not to damage the roots, seedling bushes are transplanted along with a clod of earth.

This process is best spend the evening, during the night the plants will rest and more easily endure the change of scenery. The seedling is placed vertically in the hole and covered with soil up to the leaves, compacting around the roots.

When transplanting seedlings from pots, the ground in them must be plentifully watered a day before this process. This will help to lose as few roots of seedlings as possible, acclimatize them faster and grow more actively, give an earlier harvest.

Weak plants are best removed, as they will not develop normally, but at the same time they will draw nutrients from the soil to the detriment of other bushes. Correct landing will help the sprouts to quickly take root and not lose the first flowers.

Tomatoes require a garter, so the pegs can be driven in next to the seedlings immediately and tied up at the height of the second leaf. In the future, tie up the bushes as needed. The height of the pegs depends on the variety of tomatoes.

Tomatoes do not like moisture, this can even lead to their death, but they endure drought quite steadfastly. Therefore, water the sprouts and adult plants with moderately warm (room temperature) settled water, allowing the soil to dry out until the next time. The first two weeks after planting, seedlings can not be watered at all.

Due to stress during the transplant process, the bushes may begin to wither, but do not be alarmed ahead of time, the plants will get used to the change of scenery and recover.

plant care

Proper plant care when growing tomatoes outdoors includes:

• frost protection;
• loosening the soil;
• watering;
• pollination;
• pest and weed control;
• fertilizer (top dressing);
• stepchildren and the like.

To protect tomatoes from the cold, cover them with burlap or paper caps. With prolonged frosts, tomatoes need spud high, after their completion - free the plants from the ground.

As already mentioned, tomatoes do not like an abundance of water, so they are watered much less often than other vegetables. Early-maturing varieties need only be watered repeatedly per season, and mid-season - once a week or a decade. Too much moisture can lead to disease and decay of the plant, and the fruits will become watery and sour.

If there are heavy rains, watering should be further reduced. But an insufficient amount of water will affect the quality of the fruit. For the health and strengthening of the bushes, you can add to the water potassium permanganate or ash. Watering tomatoes is best in the evening, under the root, without touching the leaves and stems.

Tomato flowers produce a sufficient amount of pollen, so pollination process they basically do it on their own. However, they can be helped a little by planting plants between the beds with tomatoes - mustard, basil or coriander honey plants. This will attract pollinating insects to the flowers. Pollen is afraid of too low or too high temperature. In this case, the plants need help - lightly shake the bush or knock on the pole.

pasynkovanie

The formation of bushes is mandatory for tomatoes. Their bushes branch strongly, forming many side shoots - stepchildren, on which the ovaries also begin, but they do not have time to ripen, while pulling the nutritious juices of the bush to the detriment of other fruits. Therefore, such shoots need to be removed at least twice a month. Cut off not at the very stem, but retreating to a distance of about 1-2 fingers thick, while the shoots are young (3-5 cm). Longer branches are best pinched off.

Carry out the procedure carefully so that there are no wounds that infections and diseases can get into, moreover, the plant will receive stress, which will affect its health and the taste of the fruit. The best time for this process is the first half of a sunny day, then the wounds will have time to dry and heal.

Most of the early ripening varieties do not need pinching, while the rest need to pinch the stem itself, since further growth of the plant is not needed. This will save him the strength to form delicious tomatoes.

For the same reason, after the formation of fruits, lower leaves plants are removed so that they do not take away the beneficial juices of the bush. It will be enough to leave only a few upper leaves if the sun is moderate in your latitudes. If you are in the southern regions, leave the foliage to provide sufficient shade for the fruits.

Top dressing of tomatoes

Tomatoes are not fussy and do not require abundant fertilizer, especially if you have prepared the soil well. But, to get a good harvest, regular feed is still needed. It is best to combine it with watering, and then spud the earth around the plant.

The first is done no earlier than a decade (maximum a week) after disembarkation. Fertilize superphosphate and ammonium nitrate in a ratio of 10:5 grams per bucket of water. An excellent option for a tomato would also be a solution of mullein or chicken manure.

Monitor the condition of the tomatoes in order to carry out top dressing in a timely manner:

As soon as the plant begins to bloom, you need to spray the buds of the so-called foliar top dressing, to stimulate the formation of ovaries. It should be carried out in dry weather, best of all in the evening, with the following solutions:

• four parts soda to one part boric acid;
• one gram of boric acid per liter of water;
• a couple of glasses of ash in a bucket of water.

In addition to helping the ovaries, similar spraying excellent prevention plant diseases.

Harvesting and storage of fruits

Harvesting when growing tomatoes in the open field begins at the beginning of August. Throughout the month, fruits are actively harvested, without waiting for their final ripening, since by the beginning of September they have already ceased to ripen.

Slightly unripe fruits (brown and yellowish) will bounce back in a couple of days and remain just as tasty. Green tomatoes will also ripen if you pick them, however, they will be worse. Timely harvested fruits allow you to collect maximum yield.

For faster ripening, vegetables are stored in warm and light room. If you want to delay ripening, hide them in a dark and cool place (but not below 10 degrees, otherwise the fruits will begin to rot).

Agree, just growing a bush of tomatoes is a rather simple task, especially since this plant is not very whimsical. But you can get a decent harvest of this vegetable by mastering certain skills and knowledge. There are many ways to speed up maturation. Stepping tomatoes in the open field is perhaps one of the main methods to increase yields and get ripe vegetables in the early stages.

planting tomatoes

Seedlings are planted in open ground after the establishment of a stable temperature regime. The plant grows well in a flat, sunny place. The distance between the bushes depends on the variety and how the plant is planned to be formed. Tomatoes with a stem of small height (determinant), as a rule, early ripening varieties. They are planted in a row, the distance between the bushes should be 60 cm, and the row spacing should be 70 cm. Tall seedlings (indeterminate) are placed so that the distance between bushes is 70 cm, and between rows 90 cm. All tall seedlings belong to late-ripening varieties, which are characterized by high productivity and have a bush height of up to 1.5-2 meters. When planting in the hole, add organic fertilizer and up to two liters of water. The plant is well buried, covered with earth, which is then well compacted.

Planting in the ground, taking into account the above requirements, however, like pinching tomatoes in the open field, is one of the methods to increase productivity.

Care during cultivation

During the growth of tomatoes, it is necessary to perform certain procedures, which include: watering, hilling, weeding, tying, pinching, pest protection.

In order for the bush to take root well, in the first week after planting, it is necessary to ensure sufficient soil moisture. After the seedlings have finally taken root, watering is carried out once every ten days, constantly destroying weeds.

For the full development of the root system, it is required to loosen the soil and carry out hilling. Tying the stems and pinching tomatoes in the open field are the most effective methods for accelerating the ripening of fruits.

Tying is carried out several times during maturation, this must be done under the ovary. Thus, the brush is better illuminated and warmed up, which leads to a significant acceleration of maturation. Also, due to tying up and avoiding contact with the ground, tomatoes are less affected by diseases.

Growing tomatoes: pinching determinant varieties

Rooted seedlings quickly grow, forming a bush with many lateral processes. An ovary with 4 brushes is formed on each branch. Removing the lateral stepchildren significantly reduces the yield. Therefore, it is irrational to pinch low-growing varieties and, as a rule, such bushes do not require special shaping.

Methods for the rational cultivation of low-growing tomatoes

To get a rich harvest of tomatoes, you need to make a lot of effort. However, there are ways to facilitate the care of a rooted bush, as well as propagate seedlings after planting.

As a rule, all undersized varieties form powerful lower stepchildren. For reproduction, it is necessary to bend the overgrown stepson to the side without effort, secure with a hairpin and sprinkle with earth. After a while, the stepson will take root and give rise to a new bush. Using this method, you can get a good harvest without having a lot of seedlings.

The second method allows you to reduce the time for caring for tomatoes. Pasynkovanie in this method is not required. Everyone understands that tying branches is a laborious process. But undersized bushes can do without it, it is enough to plant them thicker. Growing, the bushes will support themselves.

Features of growing determinant varieties in the northern regions

The cold and short summer, characteristic of the north, often does not allow growing and harvesting tomatoes. Pasynkovanie tomatoes in the open ground allows you to significantly reduce the ripening time and get excellent fruits that have grown and ripened not in a greenhouse. When side shoots are removed, the maximum influx of nutrients to the fruit ovaries occurs, which accelerates their growth and ripening. It is better to cut stepchildren when they are 3-5 cm in size, every 10 days. The bush is formed so that one or two stems remain on it. Of course, this will not allow you to harvest a large crop, but there will be a guarantee that all the fruits will have time to ripen in a short summer.

Late-ripening tomatoes: pinching and pinching

For tall tomatoes, the formation of a bush is necessary, otherwise the side branches will grow, thereby preventing the ovaries from fully developing. Such bushes are characterized by the fact that the first fruit ovary is formed after the eighth leaf, and stepchildren appear in the bosom of each. Thus, they take on the bulk of the nutrients coming from the root system. As a result, the fruit ovary develops sluggishly, has small and inconspicuous fruits. If you do not interfere in this process, then it will be impossible to grow tomatoes without pinching.

When growing indeterminate seedlings, it is advisable to form three stems. To do this, it is necessary to leave two lower strong stepsons and grow them like ordinary stems, tying them to a support and removing all other stepchildren. It is necessary to cut them in a timely manner: if you missed the moment and the stepchildren have outgrown, it is better to use scissors.

With proper care, tall tomatoes give a bountiful harvest and are characterized by a long period of fruiting. In addition to pinching, in such varieties it is necessary to pinch the upper stems. Do this a month before the planned end of the collection, thereby providing an opportunity to collect large tomatoes. Pinching and pinching, as well as tying up tomatoes, are the main techniques that allow you to grow a good crop in almost any climatic zone.

Features of growing and caring for cherry tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes can be grown both in the garden and at home. There are many varieties of these tomatoes that require different care. High varieties grow quickly, bush abundantly, forming stepchildren and fruit clusters. Therefore, they need to pay more attention and remove extra stepchildren every week. And some varieties can grow both in open ground and in a pot on the windowsill; they do not need such care, because. each branch forms a brush and no longer grows.

Final moments

There are basic methods that allow you to get a high yield of tomatoes, no matter what variety is cultivated: be it tall "De Barao" or undersized cherry tomatoes. Pasynkovanie, tying up and timely watering - the key to obtaining a decent harvest. However, do not forget about plant nutrition. The best option is to apply a fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium in the fall when digging the site. Fertilizers containing nitrogen should only be applied in the spring. Also, every three years it is necessary to change the planting site, and to prevent seedling disease, tomatoes should not be planted near potatoes.