Is it possible to feed flowers after transplantation. How to feed strawberries after a transplant in August: ways to apply fertilizers

Hello!

Agree, flowers in the house are a joy for the soul, a kind of small oasis, looking at which we give rest to both nerves and eyes tired of the computer and TV. The beneficial properties of indoor plants are very multifaceted and the hostesses are not in vain happy to breed them.

Moreover, most flowers do not require our constant attention, most often they only have to be watered, and all other "operations" are carried out from time to time - top dressing, spraying, transplanting.

And today we will master the most important operation, learn how to properly transplant indoor flowers, which have long taken root in our home, and flowers purchased in a store.

So, based on our requests, we chose a flower, and, satisfied with the purchase, brought it home. Now it is imperative to fulfill all the rules for transplantation, otherwise after a while it will be necessary to carry out a funeral ceremony for the removal of the dried "body". Or, at best, the flower will hurt for a long time, get used to it, but will never become as beautiful as it was at first.

Transplantation of purchased flowers has its own nuances, during which housewives often make the same mistakes. If you are going to transplant a pet that has already settled down with you, then points 3-5 will come in handy.

Error one

After purchase, the plant is immediately placed next to other home flowers.

You should not do this, because if your "newcomer" is infected with pests, it will harm his neighbors as well. Therefore, after the purchase, we send the plant to "quarantine", during which it, at the same time, will be able to "get used" to the house. Usually "flower quarantine" lasts 1-2 weeks, during which the flower acclimatizes, and we do not disturb it, do not fertilize or replant it.

During this time, we observe the plant and if pests and pathogens do not appear on it, then we boldly place it in our collection. If they appear, then we “identify” the pest and neutralize it by treating it with special preparations.

Error two

And the most important thing is that a flower bought in a store is left to grow in the same pot in which it was sold.

The fact is that the transportation of natural soil in open containers (which are flower pots) across the border is prohibited. Therefore, manufacturers replace the nutrient soil with an inert mixture during transportation.

The inert mixture is a combination of coconut flakes, perlite (natural form of volcanic glass) and long acting concentrated fertilizers. Plants can live and develop in such a mixture only for a limited period of time. And if you do not get rid of it the root system of plants, they will die.

Alternatively, plants in stores may be contained in peat, which is also detrimental to them at home.

Several times when transplanting, right in the main pot with earth, on the roots of flowers, I found special bags or small pots. If they are not removed, then the plant will simply stop growing and developing. Therefore, transplanting flowers in pots is vital.

Error three

Incorrectly selected soil.

Now on sale there are soils for different types of plants. But, based on my experience, I will say that they are still not ideal for transplanting your green pets. And almost always, the composition of the soil has to be adjusted.

Soils can be:

Too dense, then we add additives to it, which will loosen it, allowing the roots of the plant to breathe. You can add coarse sand (river, lake), or perlite, which we talked about above, in this case, acting as sand. Or long-staple peat (in which imported plants grow in stores).

If the soil, on the contrary, is too peaty, it is necessary to compact it by adding to it a denser and more nutritious type of soddy soil.

Mistake four

Flower transplantation is carried out according to a gentle scheme

That is, the flower is transplanted into a home pot, along with part of the soil from the purchased pot in which it grew. This technique is not suitable for purchased flowers.

In the transplantation of imported plants, technology plays the most important role, with it, first of all, we must clean the root system of the plant from the "substrate" in which it was from the moment it left the foreign greenhouse until the moment it arrived at your home.

We take the plant out of the transport pot and put its roots in a container of warm tap water so that they soak. While the flower is soaking, we lay drainage on the bottom of the pot and pour nutrient soil.

When the main part of the substrate “falls off” from the roots of the plants, carefully take it out, holding it by the base of the trunk, and transfer it under running water. Under running water, completely wash out the remains of the substrate from the roots. After that, it is recommended to spray the root system with a Kornevin-type preparation, but to be honest, I have never done this.

Carefully lower the plant onto the prepared soil and completely sprinkle the roots on top. Then pour abundantly with warm settled water.

When transplanting home indoor flowers, we use the same technology.

The only exception is that we do not wash off the soil from the roots, but just shake it off a little and lower the plant, together with the remnants of the “native” land, into the prepared pot, fill the root system with prepared soil and pour it with settled water. Everything, our flower is absolutely happy 🙂, but is still weak, so we protect the transplanted flower from cooling, drafts and waterlogging.

Mistake five

Early plant nutrition

After such a “cruel” transplant, many housewives want to help their pet recover and settle down in new conditions, for which they begin to add various top dressings.

But in no case should this be done, it will be possible to start feeding the transplanted plant no earlier than in a month and a half and only after it, moreover, shows the first signs of normal rooting - new leaves, sprouts, shoots will appear.

The method of transplantation that I have described may seem too traumatic. But do not be afraid, in fact, it turns out to be much more humane for the plant, since the pet will not suffer in a substrate unusual for its habitat.

I applied this method of transplantation to all the plants purchased in the store, and they all tolerated it safely, continuing to grow and delight with their beauty. The only “missing” plant I had was myrtle, but it disappeared due to improper care for it, the intricacies of which at that time I did not know, but that’s a completely different story.

I hope that my experience of transplanting green pets will be useful to you, and if I missed something in the article, I will be glad for your tips.

Indoor plants good for human health

Absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen:

• sansiviera, which is popularly called the "pike tail";
• chlorophytum;
• a coffee tree.

Plants capable of absorbing dust. Conifers have these properties:

• pine;
• juniper;
• cypress.

In the house, of course, they can only be in the form of a small coniferous tree - bonsai. I have never come across coniferous bonsai in flower shops, and even searching for them on the Internet has not yet yielded results. Although I would buy such a bonsai with great pleasure.

Fight harmful bacteria:

• chlorophytum;
• asparagus;
• monstera;
• myrtle;
• eucalyptus.

They help relieve tension and fatigue, soothe and improve sleep, so it makes sense to put them in the bedroom:

• rosemary;
• Melissa;
• and the well-known geranium.

Deal with toxins:

• ivy;
• ficus;
• philodendron;
• dracaena;
• aloe.

Azalea or rhododendron has a rare gift.

They say that this plant can relieve not only fatigue, but also a hangover. To do this, it is enough to stay in the same room with this “green doctor” for half an hour. The advice was not checked, since we don’t drink so much - sir 😉

All of the above advantages sound very convincing, in order to make you want to buy a green handsome man for yourself, especially since now you know how to properly transplant both indoor flowers and flowers bought in a store. How to care for them after transplantation.

Comfort to your home 🙂

Competent and timely application of fertilizers is the key to the harmonious development of seedlings. However, many gardeners are ill-informed about when and what kind of dressing to apply. This article will help you understand all the intricacies of an important process aimed at increasing the productivity of plant growth.

Proper fertilization of the soil will create favorable conditions for the existence of crops and avoid problems in the future. But it is necessary to fertilize with knowledge of the matter. Uncontrolled introduction of organic matter or complex dressings can harm. So, how to feed the seedlings?

Young plants primarily need phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Usually it is they that are lacking in the soil, which means that this should be compensated. Hydrogen, oxygen, carbon are no less important components of "excellent health". If the nutritional value of the soil leaves much to be desired, then the seedlings will lack these elements of the periodic table. But calcium, sulfur, magnesium, manganese at the beginning of the journey requires a minimum amount.

The need for certain fertilizers depends on the type of crops that you have planted. So, pears and apple trees are more in need of organic matter. Cherry and apricot - in minerals.

How to find out what exactly is missing?

If the seedlings are not rooting well, you should take a closer look at them. With a careful visual inspection, you will definitely find the characteristic signs of a deficiency of one or the element.

Thin weak stems, small pale leaves indicate that the seedlings lack nitrogen. Leaves dry at the edges, turn yellow or brown? You need potassium. An acute shortage of magnesium manifests itself in the form of blanching of the leaves, which subsequently turn yellow and fall off.

Small and almost black foliage, mainly in the lower part of the plant, is a signal that phosphorus should be fed. Intensive wilting of leaves and shoots indicates a lack of iron. Most often, raspberries, grapes, apple trees, and plums need iron. But when there is not enough copper, the leaves at the tips brighten, become lethargic and soon die off.

Phosphorus and potassium: what you need to know

Experts advise to make phosphorus and potassium only in the 4th year after planting. It is better to do this in the fall, because. such complexes contain hardly digestible substances. An exception is made for fruit-bearing plants - they are fed in the spring.

Many make such fertilizers during fruit set. And they do it right - it favorably affects the quality and quantity of the crop.

So what fertilizers for seedlings containing potassium and phosphorus should be applied first?

• potassium sulfate used as the main fertilizer for fruit-bearing crops. The content of the main active ingredient is 50%. It is applied mainly in spring;
• potassium salt. Universal top dressing is suitable for any type of crops. The content of the main substance is 40%. It is brought in in the fall;
• superphosphate. Fertilizer in granules. The content of phosphoric acid - up to 20%. It is brought in at the rate of 35-40 gr/m2;
• phosphate rock. Not only a valuable fertilizer, but also an effective neutralizer of increased soil acidity. Phosphorus content varies from 15 to 35%. Oriented to top dressing of any fruit trees.

There are special mixtures containing other substances in addition to potassium and phosphorus. For example, nitrophoska and diammofoska include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen in different ratios.

Nitrogen: when and how to apply?

If the soil was fertilized with nitrogen during planting, then the first top dressing is practiced in the 3rd year after planting. Most of the nitrogen is applied in spring, the smaller part in autumn. Calculate as follows: 20 g / m2 (for poor soils) or 10 g / m2 (for fertile soils). If you plan to apply nitrogen, then you should use:

• urea (carbimide). Contains rapidly digestible nitrogen. Young plantings can be fertilized with urea in two ways: by instilling a dry mixture into tree trunks or spraying the trunk and leaves with a solution (for this, 0.5 kg of urea is dissolved in a bucket of water);
• ammonium nitrate. Feeding in granules is well absorbed by seedlings. Saltpeter can be used in dry (15 g / m2) and liquid (25 g / bucket of water) form;
• compost, bird droppings and manure. Designed to feed the soil of medium fertility. Contains a small amount of nitrogen. Optimal as an addition to other mineral complexes.

Weak seedlings should not be fertilized with nitrogen. This will significantly extend the growing season and reduce frost resistance.

Organics: rules to remember

The most useful fertilizer for seedlings is manure. It should be made in the 3rd year. Chicken manure is especially valuable. They fertilize the land in the spring at the rate of 5 kg / m2. For fertilizing fruit trees, manure is diluted with water (1 kg / bucket of water) and infused for 4-5 days. In autumn, the dosage of manure is reduced to 0.3 kg/m2. Manure from domestic animals is brought in only in a rotted state. Fertilize with manure once every 3 years. If the land is very poor, you can once every 2 years.

Another useful organic fertilizer is peat. Improves air permeability and soil structure. Furnace ash reduces the acidity of the earth. Make it at the rate of 100 g / m2. Mix with other organics or prepare a solution.

Compost deserves special attention. It is introduced in the first year after planting. Increases the nutritional value of the soil, enriches it with humus and improves aeration. Contains substances necessary for seedlings to grow.

High-quality compost can successfully replace any mineral mixtures. It is also easy to make compost. To do this, they dig a trench in the fall and fill it with leaves, grass, sawdust, tops, tea leaves and other waste. The compost pit is covered with earth and safely forgotten about it until spring. During the winter, everything that you threw into it will turn into a wonderful fertilizer.

The interval between top dressing is 2 seasons. The optimal time for fertilizing with compost is September-October. Important: compost is lightly dug into the top layer of the earth or simply laid out near tree trunks.

Don't know what else to feed the seedlings? Ready-made fertilizers - Aquarin, Kemira, Ecofoska, AVA, Uniflor-growth, Florist, Ferovit, Uniflor - have proven themselves to be excellent. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions (the composition of the drugs is different) and follow the dosage.

Most likely, you cannot find a garden without a corner reserved for raspberries. The fruits are tasty and healthy, and in terms of care, the culture is unpretentious. Many believe that there is no need to feed raspberries, they grow well on their own. However, when fertilizing, you will be surprised how much more fruits became, how they increased in size, and the ripening process is also accelerated.

Spring dressing of raspberries is fundamental for fruiting in the season, you can also feed in summer and autumn. Let us consider in more detail how to feed raspberries in the spring and in subsequent periods.

How to feed raspberries during transplantation

Most often, raspberry planting is carried out in the spring (especially in the northern regions, this is also true for central Russia).

It is not necessary to fertilize if the soil is fertile and is being dug for the first time. Otherwise, fill the trenches or holes with organic and mineral fertilizers, which will feed for several years. The seedlings will take root and will develop successfully without additional feeding for 2-3 years, gradually consuming the supply of nutrients.

Fertilizer consumption when planting in autumn per 1 m² of land is approximately:

• 6 kg of humus;
• about 10 kg of compost or compost-peat mixture;
• half a liter jar of dry wood ash;
• 80 g of superphosphate;
• 25 g of potassium salt.

Since autumn, dig the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm, fertilizing, remove roots, stones, and debris from the site. If the soil is acidic, liming will be required, which is achieved by adding 1 cup of slaked lime or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m.

Dig up the area in the spring. Fertilize when planting in spring in each planting hole, combining organic matter and mineral fertilizers:

• You will need 1-2 shovels of compost or humus,
• 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and potassium salt (or wood ash).

Mix all ingredients well in a well. With such a solid dressing, fertilizers will not be needed for 2-3 seasons.

How to feed raspberries after transplanting

If raspberries were planted without laying fertilizers in the ground, feed them after planting with the same fertilizers listed above: sprinkle mineral fertilizers and mulch over organic matter.

When and how to feed raspberries

In the future, planting raspberries, it is advisable to feed several per season:

• Early spring for a successful start of the growing season;
• In summer, during the period of flowering and pouring (ripening) of berries;
• In autumn (at this time fruit buds are laid for the next year).

Fertilizers must be applied correctly:

• The soil must first be moistened. So top dressing will work better and there is no risk of harming the root system.
• Be sure to follow the dosage.
• If a concentrated solution gets on the leaves, it must be washed off with clean water (meaning without fertilizers).
• When planting dry fertilizers into the soil, loosen the soil shallowly, carefully so as not to greatly destroy the root layer and damage the roots.
• It is better to feed in the morning or evening hours, a cloudy day will do. Then the sun is the least active, and from exposure to its rays in combination with fertilizers, a reaction can occur that will cause burns to the plant.

Do I need to feed raspberries: how to understand?

It is easy to determine what nutrients a plant needs by its appearance:

• If there is not enough nitrogen, the leaves grow small, in general, growth rates slow down.
• With a lack of potassium, the edges of the leaves dry out, the leaf plates can completely curl or have a brownish tint.
• Thin and weak shoots - raspberries lack phosphorus.
• From magnesium deficiency, the central part of the leaf turns yellow, the growth of the shrub is slow.
• We noticed that the leaves turn yellow, and the veins remain green - this is how a lack of iron manifests itself.

How to feed raspberries in spring for a good harvest

The time of application in the spring depends on the climatic conditions of your region. The soil should thaw and warm up well (in the conditions of central Russia, this happens in late April-early May).

Inspect the berry bush, cut off dry and damaged branches, remove fallen leaves from the site and weed from weeds.

Spring should contain a large proportion of nitrogen in order to enhance the growth of shoots, potassium and phosphorus will also be needed.

Superphosphate is a source of water-soluble magnesium, potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizer has a beneficial effect on the development of the root system, the growth of stems and shoots, increases productivity, improves the taste of berries. Phosphorus affects the increase in resistance to bacterial and fungal diseases.

• In the spring it is better to fertilize in a dry form.
• Carefully loosen the soil, cover 10 g of urea or 12 g of ammonium nitrate and 30 g of superphosphate per 1 m² of land.

Feeding raspberries during flowering

It is useful to feed raspberries during flowering with liquid fertilizer:

• In 10 liters of water, dissolve 1 cup of wood ash and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate,
• add 1 tbsp urea,
• water at a rate of 10 liters per 1 m² of plantings.

Potassium salt helps to strengthen plant tissues, stimulates fruiting, increases immunity and resistance to cold. It is enough to apply 40 g of potassium salt per 1 m² of land once per season. It is strictly forbidden to use potassium chloride as a fertilizer for raspberries.

An alternative to potassium salt is wood ash. It contains many useful elements that improve the growth and fruiting of raspberries. It can be applied dry (1 glass per 1 m²) or an ash infusion can be used (dissolve a couple of glasses of wood ash in 10 liters of water, insist for two days, then strain and pour 1 liter under each plant).

It is convenient to feed with a complex mineral fertilizer, since it contains all the necessary elements and you do not need to bother with weighing the ingredients:

Suitable Azofoska, Kemira. In preparing the solution, rely on the instructions (for example, Kemira will need 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water, mix well and pour 1 liter of solution under each plant).

It is advisable to feed old bushes with a mixture of mineral fertilizers:

• For 1 m² of land, you will need 60 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium salt, 15-20 g of urea.
• Mineral fertilizers are embedded in the soil, watered.

Instead of this top dressing, you can add organic matter by simply mulching the plantings with humus.

How to feed fruit-bearing raspberries: folk remedies

Than raspberries during the fruiting period, so that it is sweet and there are many fruits? Raspberries are very responsive to the introduction of organic matter. It will be an excellent substitute for mineral fertilizers, especially if you do not welcome the saturation of the soil with “chemistry”.

How to feed raspberries with cow dung

You can feed raspberry plantings with slurry. Dilute 1 liter of mullein in 10 liters of water and leave in a warm place to ferment for 7 days. Then pour 1 liter of the mixture under each plant.

How to feed raspberries with chicken manure

A potent organic fertilizer is an infusion of chicken manure:

• Dilute fresh chicken manure with water in a ratio of 1 to 20 and let it ferment for 5-10 days. Carefully pour under the root, avoiding contact with the leaves, each plant will also need 1 liter of this top dressing.
• You can let the concentrate ferment: pour the litter to the top with water, ferment for a week and dilute 0.5 liters of concentrate per 10 liters of water. Water 1 liter of working solution under each bush.

fermented grass fertilization

Herbal infusion is also rich in nitrogen. Use any greens: nettles, dandelions, weeds from the site (only to start insemination).

• Finely chop the herb, soak in water at a ratio of 1 to 3 and let ferment for a week.
• Then dilute with water in a ratio of 1 to 10 and pour over the raspberries.

How to feed raspberries if there is no manure: feeding with food waste

Ordinary food waste can become: vegetable peels, banana peels, egg shells, onion peels, but without chlorine and other impurities of household chemicals.

Potato peels and banana peels are rich in potassium, which is good for raspberries. Fill them with boiling water, cool and pour the bushes with the resulting infusion. Potato peels can simply mulch the surface of the soil.

An infusion of onion peel is not only a good top dressing, but also protection from pests. To prepare it, pour 50 g of raw materials with boiling water (10 liters) and insist for a week, then pour. An infusion is also prepared on eggshells. It will be an excellent calcium supplement.

How to feed raspberries with yeast

As a growth stimulator, yeast top dressing will act, it contributes to a more rapid decomposition of organic matter in the soil. It is advisable to make such top dressing in late spring, when the soil warms up well.

• For 10 liters of water we take 1 kg of fresh yeast, add 1 tablespoon of sugar, stir well and let ferment for several hours (leave overnight). Preparation of a working solution: for 10 liters of water you will need 0.5 liters of infusion, water the bushes as usual.
• An infusion of dry yeast is prepared faster: we dilute 10 grams of yeast and 5 teaspoons of sugar in 10 liters of water, leave for 2 hours. To use, dilute with water in a ratio of 1 to 5.

How to feed raspberries in August and September after pruning

In the natural environment, raspberries grow near trees, the roots of the shrub are covered with a layer of woody leaves and bark. According to many gardeners, when growing culturally, raspberries should also be kept under mulch, which will protect the root system from the cold, and useful nutrients will be gradually released during the process of decay.

How to feed raspberry bushes in autumn

The end of August or the beginning of September is the time of the last feeding of the season, which helps to strengthen the flower buds. How to properly feed raspberries in the fall?

It is best to use mineral fertilizers: superphosphate and potassium salt, they are mixed in 60 and 40 grams, respectively, and buried in the soil in dry form per 1 sq. m.

Gently loosen the soil, trying not to damage the roots, distribute fertilizer granules and sprinkle with a thin layer of soil. Then mulch the area with organic matter - use rotted manure, compost or peat, sawdust and straw are also suitable as mulch.

Manure humus is an excellent mulching material with a rich composition of the elements necessary for raspberries, but take it only in a well-rotted state.

Mulching with organic matter is also a way to feed

Than raspberries for the winter, if you do not want to use mineral fertilizers? Leaf compost or compost is a convenient and effective mulching material that will make an excellent organic fertilizer.

Peat itself is loose, which helps to improve the structure of the soil. It can acidify the soil, so add dry wood ash or garden lime to it.

Straw and hay are also often used as mulch. They quickly rot, so throughout the growing season they will need to be periodically added.

Wood debris is suitable for mulching: bark of coniferous trees, sawdust, twigs, rotten boards. Grind all this well and sprinkle the area, in the future, make sure that such a mulch does not cake, periodically stir.

The mulch layer is renewed in spring, its thickness should be about 10 cm. What is the function of mulch in spring? It will attract earthworms to the site, which will loosen the soil, improving breathability; will help maintain an optimal level of humidity, protecting from overheating and, of course, will serve as top dressing.

How to feed raspberries in the fall after trimming the video:

It's time for autumn planting - it's time to talk about how to alleviate the stress of garden plants that occurs after transplanting.

The main negative impact is usually associated with the loss of part of the root system and the resulting imbalance between the above and below ground parts. Rather, special preparations help plants to go through the process of adaptation in a new place. The main thing is to know what treatments should be carried out and how to do it correctly.

When plants are stressed, a number of biochemical reactions are triggered to quickly compensate for the existing effects.

There are such processes as inhibition of cell growth and division, increased respiration, reduced photosynthesis, synthesis of special proteins of phytoalexins and others, increased permeability of cell membranes, increased content of calcium ions in the cytoplasm, etc.

Modern science has thoroughly studied these processes and, to help gardeners, offers drugs that help plants go through the process of adaptation faster.

Of course, special attention is paid to growth regulators. The first information about them appeared at the beginning of the 20th century, their synthesis began with the hormone auxin, and later other hormones were chemically obtained. Growth regulators are compounds involved in the regulation of growth processes in a plant and present in it in ultra-low doses.

HORMONAL DRUGS

DRUGS WITHOUT HORMONES

Preparations "Radipharm" and "Maxifol Rutpharm" are already familiar to many.

« Radipharm"is a complex of substances, the action of which is aimed at the speedy recovery of plants after stress. These are betaines, which stimulate the synthesis of chlorophyll, and amino acids, which provoke the growth of meristem tissues, and zinc, which increases the content of auxins (indoleacetic acid). After transplantation, the plant is shed with a solution of the drug (20-30 ml per 10 liters of water).

A drug " Maxifol Rutpharm» is a special complex containing Ascophyllum nodosum algae extract, certain amino acids, macro- and microelements and designed to enhance the growth of the root system. The first treatment is carried out during transplantation: the plants are watered with the prepared solution (20 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water). The second is carried out in 10-14 days.

Do I need to apply fertilizer when planting a seedling? It all depends on what kind of soil you have at the planting site. If it's good garden soil, then don't. If it is solid sand, then any complex mineral fertilizer that slowly dissolves in water must be applied. For an annual seedling, it is quite enough to add, for example, 1 tbsp. spoon "Aquarin" Buysky chemical plant. Or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated, water-insoluble AVA fertilizer. By the way, it will last for three years. At worst, you can make 1 tbsp. a spoonful of "Azofoski", even better - "Ekofoski" or "Kemira".

In addition, you need to add organic matter. In sandy or sandy loamy or podzolic soils - 2-3 buckets of rotted compost or manure and an iodine-year-old seedling. Under a two-year-old seedling, the dose should be doubled, and under a three-year-old - three times.

If the soil is peat, then it is better to deoxidize it, and not to apply mineral fertilizers. Organics on such soils in the first year of a seedling's life is also not needed. As mentioned above, trees are not planted in clay, but the hill that will have to be poured on top of it must contain both organic and mineral fertilizers.

When and how to feed trees? The basic principle of any top dressing is that we bring in what we take out. That is, how many and what kind of minerals we carry away with the harvest, then we must return them back to the soil. In addition, it is also necessary to provide food for soil microorganisms, that is, to add unrotted organic matter to the subtree. The easiest way to do this is to do this without removing anything from under the tree - fallen leaves, weeds weeded or cut along the soil level, and if necessary, then put compost either in trenches (when planting in pits) or directly on the soil (when planting on hill or flat surface) along the perimeter of the crown.

An apple tree takes out 17 g of nitrogen, 5 g of phosphorus, 20 g of potassium from each square meter of the occupied feeding area (approximately 4 x4 \u003d 16 m 2) with an average yield of 4-6 kg (from 1 m 2). The total removal of minerals per season will be 42 g (agronorm), and the percentage of these basic nutrients (balance) for the apple tree will be 41:11:48. Those plants that tolerate more than 45% of potassium from the total amount of elements with a yield are classified as potassium-loving. Thus, the apple tree is a potassium-loving plant. In addition, it removes from soils with a yield of 12.6 mg of iron, 5 mg of boron, 4.4 mg of copper, 2.4 mg of manganese, 2.6 mg of zinc, 0.05 mg of molybdenum per season from every 1 m 2 per season. All this must be returned to the soil (or brought in for a given season). The feeding area is 16 m 2, so the apple tree will need 272 g of nitrogen, about 9 tbsp. spoons. Phosphorus - 80 g, but pure phosphorus in phosphorus oxide (which is part of mineral fertilizers) contains only 0.44%, so phosphorus oxide will have to be taken 181 g, that is, 6 tbsp. spoons of double granular superphosphate. Potassium apple tree needs 320 g for the whole season, however, potassium oxide contains 0.83% of it, which means that potash fertilizer should be taken 382 g, that is, 12 tbsp. spoons.

Unlike garden plants, which should be fed and watered all season, fruit and berry plants need mineral supplements twice a season. The first should be done in the spring, at the moment the leaves turn. Plants need nitrogen and potassium at this time. But the dose of potassium should be divided into spring and late summer. Thus, with spring top dressing, you should take 9 tbsp. spoons of nitrogen and potassium. In total there will be 18 tbsp. spoons per 16 m 2 of food area. Thus, a little more than 1 tbsp is enough. spoons per 1 m 2. If you use potassium nitrate, then 1 tbsp is enough. dissolve a spoon in 10 liters of water, to which you must additionally add 1/2 tbsp. tablespoons of urea, and pour around the perimeter of the tree crown for one running meter. And in order to feed an adult apple tree, you will need to pour 16 buckets of the solution prepared in this way under it.

You can use specialized top dressing for fruit and berry plants of the Buysky chemical plant, you can only use Aquarin or Omu. Enough 3 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water. Or take Ecofoska or Kemira. At worst, use 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and 2 tbsp. spoons of carbonate or potassium sulphate (or potassium magnesia) per 10 liters of water. If there are no mineral fertilizers at all, pour the ground under the tree along the perimeter of the crown with a solution of manure (or feces) diluted with water 1: 10 (if you use bird droppings, then prepare the solution 1: 20). Pour it around the perimeter of the crown of the apple tree, and after a week, pour ash on a wet surface at the rate of 1 cup for a one-year-old seedling.

The nutrient solution is prepared at the rate of 10 liters per square meter of soil surface. An adult apple tree requires a feeding area of ​​​​4 x 4 m 2, therefore, it is necessary to feed at least 16 buckets of solution, but it must be poured along the perimeter of the tree crown. A berry bush needs a feeding area of ​​1.5 x 1.5 \u003d 2.25 m 2. Therefore, it is enough to pour 2 buckets of solution under it (again, along the perimeter of the crown, and for blackcurrant even beyond the perimeter of the crown). In the North-West, the first spring top dressing should be given no earlier than in early June, when spring frosts have passed, because nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of plants by almost 2 degrees.

The second mineral dressing is needed for fruit and berry crops at the end of summer, when a young root system begins to grow in them. In mid-late August, prepare a solution of double granular superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and potassium (1 tablespoon), not containing chlorine, in 10 liters of water. And pour this solution at the rate of 10 liters per square meter (naturally, along the perimeter of the plant crown). Don't worry that superphosphate won't dissolve in cold water. Gradually, it will penetrate the root zone and even remain in the soil for the next season. But you can use ready-made autumn fertilizer for fruit and berry plants of the Buysky plant. Or once every three years you will plant 3 st. spoons of AVA granular complex fertilizer. To do this, simply draw a groove around the apple tree with the corner of the weeder.

Distribute the fertilizer evenly and cover it with soil. This fertilizer does not dissolve in water, and therefore is not washed out of the soil. The plant consumes it economically and evenly throughout the season. Fertilizer dissolves in organic soil acids (partially, the roots themselves secrete these acids, dissolving the fertilizer as needed). It is only necessary to remember that fertilizer does not work in alkaline environments, therefore, ash, dolomite, lime and other deoxidizers should not be applied simultaneously with it. If you fold compost every 2-3 years along the perimeter of the crown of one or another apple tree, then no additional feeding will be required for the tree, with the exception of trace elements.

There is another crucial moment in the life of garden plants - the intensive growth of ovaries. At this time, they need microelements, otherwise they will not avoid the premature reset of the ovaries and the crop, which will not only be poorly stored, but also contain vitamins that are subject to rapid destruction. In addition, in healthy-looking apples, the flesh can turn brown and taste disgusting. Therefore, in the area where the soils are poor and practically do not contain microelements, plants should be sprayed on young ovaries with a solution of these very microelements. In particular, it is precisely such soils in the Northwest, where historically there has never been volcanic or mining activity and magma saturated with all minerals did not enrich our soils.

The best preparation for feeding plants with microelements is Uniflor-micro, which contains 15 microelements in a chelated (intracomplex) form. Enough 2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water. An adult tree will require 5-6 liters of solution. 0.5 l is enough for a berry bush. And it is much more effective to spray the plants, rather than watering. If you use AVA as a mineral fertilizer, then this top dressing is not required. Is it possible to replace Uniflor-micro if it is not available? Yes, you can, with any fertilizer, which includes a large number of trace elements. Just remember that foliar feeding of plants by leaves should be 10 times less concentrated than root feeding, otherwise you will burn the plants.

In a pear, the yield is half that of an apple tree, with the same required feeding area 4 x 4 m \u003d 16 m 2 - only about 3 kg per 1 m 2. And therefore, the removal with a harvest of mineral elements per season is significantly less: 7 g of nitrogen, 3 g of pure phosphorus and 8 g of pure potassium from each square meter of food area. The agro-norm is -18, the balance is 41:15:44, that is, the pear needs increased doses of phosphorus and slightly lower doses of potassium than the apple tree. Hence, the feeding norms given for an apple tree should be taken for a pear half as much as for an apple tree. To prepare the solution, the dose of phosphorus must be increased by 1/3 st. spoons, and potassium, respectively, reduce by 1/3 st. spoons. That's all there is to it. If you use AVA fertilizer, then 2.5 tbsp is enough for a pear. spoons for three seasons.

nutritional deficiency

Through the leaves, top dressing is absorbed much faster than through the roots, so foliar nutrition is more effective, but only in emergency situations. It cannot replace root nutrition. When foliar top dressing, it is important that there is no rain for 3-4 hours after spraying. In addition, top dressing should be done in the evening so that it is absorbed by the leaves, and does not evaporate in the sun.

With a lack of potassium, the leaves curl up in a boat, and a brown border forms along their edges - a marginal burn. Spray the plant with Uniflor Bud (2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water) or a weak solution of potassium fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters). With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves are pulled vertically upwards. Feed with double granular superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters). At worst, potassium and phosphorus will be replaced by ash (1 cup of ash, pour 1 liter of hot water for a day, then add water to 10 liters, strain).

With a lack of nitrogen, the foliage becomes smaller and brighter. Feed with any nitrogen fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters), preferably together with potassium (potassium nitrate, for example). Or use Uniflor-growth.

With a lack of magnesium, the leaves become marbled - dark green with light green. Leaves should be sprayed with Epsom salts or potassium magnesia solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

If marble spotting is variegated (yellow-green or red-green, and so on), then most often this indicates a lack of some trace element. The easiest way is to spray Wiiflor-micro (2 teaspoons per 10 liters). Instead of "Uniflora" you can use "Florist" or "Aquadon-micro" in the same concentration. At worst, use the infusion of ash, as described above.

If there are brown spots on the leaves, then most often this is evidence of an iron deficiency. There is an excellent drug "Ferovit" (2-4 drops per 1 liter) or any of the "Uniflors". As a last resort, use 0.1% iron sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). If there are black spots on the leaves, then this is most likely a scab. It will not be on the leaves or on the fruits if the "Healthy Garden" is systematically applied.

Frequent headaches (and in our fast-paced world almost everyone suffers from them) can be a sign of a serious illness.