When to plant onion heads in open ground. Onion sets: when to plant onions and how to care for them outdoors


Turnip onion on the market in winter can be expensive, and in spring it is overpriced. Fortunately, this crop is not difficult to grow. If you choose the right site, process it in time and plant it, the harvest will not be long in coming and will please you with quality and abundance. Planting onion sets in spring and autumn, before winter, will be described below in the article.

Where is the best place to plant onion sets?

When choosing a site for planting onion sets, you need to pay attention to many different nuances and features.


Benefits of spring planting

Check also these articles

There are a lot of opinions about when to plant onion sets. Some gardeners advocate spring sowing, while others prefer to carry out the procedure in the fall. To say for sure when it is impossible to do this better - each gardener should try both methods for himself and decide which one is better. To help you can only imagine the benefits of spring and autumn plantings. So, what are the advantages of sowing sevka in the spring?

  1. Spring is the traditional time for planting onion sets. Many generations planted onions in this way and grew them successfully. So the first positive side is the tested method.
  2. In the spring, large onion sets can be sown, which eventually form large heads of cibules. It is also much more suitable for obtaining a green feather. In large planting material, feathers ripen much faster. They are rich in color, healthy, dense, juicy.
  3. It is known that spring crops give higher yields than autumn crops. So onions for sale are usually sown in the spring. It's just beneficial.
  4. The quality of the crop is always high, if properly cared for.
  5. Onions sown in the spring have a rich vitamin composition and are distinguished by an abundance of useful substances in the composition.

As for the shortcomings, it is worth noting only that there will be more work with such crops. Onions can be characterized by low frost resistance, begin to freeze during return frosts, and pests and diseases can often precipitate it. And yet this method is more popular.

How to plant onion sets in spring?

The land for spring planting of onion sets is fertilized in the fall. To do this, 5 kg of humus, 8 kg of compost, 500 g of wood ash, as well as 20 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride per square meter are brought under deep digging.

If the autumn fertilization of the land was not carried out, you can do it in the spring. Spring fertilization of the soil is carried out 2-3 weeks before planting. The same components are added, only the concentration can be reduced by 1.5-2 times. Also, 20 g of ammonium nitrate per square meter is added to this mixture. After fertilizing, the earth is loosened and rows are made in it.

The time of spring planting can be quite specifically determined. It is carried out when the earth warms up to +12 degrees to a depth of 6-10 cm. So you only need to focus on the weather. Planting onion sets at an earlier time, in cold ground, will not bring anything good - the bulbs will freeze, and no treatment will help here.

Before planting, you can spray the bulbs with a solution of potassium permanganate or special purchased preparations for rapid growth: Epin, Kornevin, Zircon, Biostim, etc.

Onion sets are planted in the spring to a depth of 2-4 cm, it is no longer necessary for it to germinate faster. Between the individual furrows, 15-25 cm is left, and the bulbs are placed at a distance of 7-8 cm from each other. After planting, you can slightly moisten the ground. Now it remains only to properly care for the crops in order to get a rich harvest.

What are the benefits of autumn planting?


It is also worth highlighting the shortcomings so that gardeners fully understand what to expect when planting onion sets before winter. Small sevok does not give a big turnip. From such crops it is possible to collect, at best, the average size of the head of the cibul. It's not always bad, but it may not be to everyone's taste.

Greens from a small set are frail, weak at first, a little later, of course, it gets stronger, becomes more developed, juice and vitamins are collected, but at first, after its appearance, it is not recommended to cut it for food.

Planting onion sets in autumn, before winter

Planting onion sets in the fall for the winter also involves timely fertilization of the soil. For this, the same fertilizers are used and in the same concentration as in the spring procedure, only ammonium nitrate cannot be applied so that the onion does not begin to germinate ahead of time.

In autumn, before winter, heat-loving varieties of onions cannot be sown. They just freeze over the winter. The varieties ideal for this sowing time are: Stuttgarter Riesen, Arzamassky, Bessonovsky, Strigunovsky, Danilovsky.

It is necessary to plant onion sets before winter only at a certain time. In the middle lane, this is October 5-20. In the southern regions, this period can be shifted closer to November, since frosts do not come early there. In the northern regions, it is desirable to complete all plantings at the end of September.

Process onion sets before planting for the winter, if necessary, then very carefully. Gardeners with experience always plant dry material before winter, as there is a high risk that an abundance of moisture under the husk will lead to freezing of the bulbs, and not their germination. Yes, and there is no particular sense in processing. In autumn, pests hide and onions are not the best shelter for them (only rare insects can tolerate the smell of onions). Rapid germination at this time is also not necessary, so it is better to refrain from processing and plant a simple, unprocessed, but beautiful, sorted, undamaged onion set.

It is necessary to plant in furrows to a depth of 5 cm and with a distance of 6-7 cm. Between the rows leave a space of 15 cm, no more. So that the crops do not freeze out, they cover the beds with straw, dry plant stems, sawdust, peat on top. Watering is not worth it, there will be enough rain, and all care work should be postponed until spring.

VIDEO - How to plant onion sets

Planting onions in the spring on the head is a simple procedure even for a beginner, but you need to gain knowledge. When you do everything right, in 10-11 weeks you will have an abundant harvest.

  • The Centurion F1 is a hybrid variant that will ripen early. Does not give arrows. Bulbs are elongated and medium, with yellow husks. Harvests are pleasing.
  • Stuttgarten Riesen is the result of German selection. The bulbs are flattened and round. The harvest is large, the largest onions weigh up to 250 gr. Outwardly yellow, the pulp is extremely juicy and spicy. Lightness tolerates well. Ripens in 90 days.
  • Red Baron is an early maturing variety with red husks. Ripens in three months. Red on the outside. Productivity up to 3 kg. per 1 sq. m. Does not give an arrow. It is stored for a long time in winter, has a slightly spicy taste.
  • Golden Semko is a hybrid that sings early. The husk is golden. The bulb is formed in one season. An abundant crop is harvested in any strip of Russia.

Important: a good harvest is obtained from planting local varieties of heads.

Sharp varieties have high keeping quality and productivity. Sweet and semi-sharp taste good

  • Myachkovsky 300 - matures quickly. Flattened bulbs. The average size. It can grow from seeds.
  • Zolotnichok - a variety with golden rounded onions. Mid-early.
  • Exhibition - large oval bulbs. They have a low keeping quality, but a high yield.
  • Comet is a white variety. Late maturing, but very persistent. Long stored.

Prices for onion seeds Red Baron

red baron onion seeds

Prices for onion seeds Exhibition

exhibition onion seeds

Video - Growing onions without the hassle

Table 1. Terms of maturation of bulbs.

Preparing sowing for landing

Bulbs are prepared before planting.

  1. Inspection: throw out wet and rotten onions, damaged. There can be no symptoms of deformation and especially incomprehensible spots on the husk. Sevok when punching with fingers should be tight. A little moisture is allowed on the bulbs, but it still needs to be dried before all procedures. For example, scattered in a large box or on a newspaper.
  2. Sorting: sorted by size. 0.5-1 cm is taken for stem growth. They are planted first in the greenhouse or in the ground under the open sky in the first week of May.
    Bulbs over 2 cm are also taken for feathers. They are more likely to have arrows with flowers on them. Grow for seed.
    Heads from 1 to 2 cm are used for growing bulbs. They are planted last in the ground.

  • Processing: it consists in heating. With the help of it, arrows do not appear, and the forces of the plant go into the bulbs. There are a couple of options for warming up:
  • For 15-20 days, the bulbs are laid out in a warm and dry house. The ambient temperature cannot fall below 20 and not more than 35 degrees. For high temperatures, you can put a heater or radiator nearby. The procedure is carried out no longer than three days. But this method has a drawback: if the bulbs overheat, they may not sprout.

    The second option is used if there is little time. Heating is more efficient. For 14-15 minutes, the bulbs are lowered into water (at least 50 degrees). After that, the same amount is transferred to the cold. Thus, the sevok hardens and becomes stronger.

    Important: it doesn't matter which method you use. But the onion needs to be dried and clean. If you keep the material in the cold, take out a week and a half before planting and keep warm. If you dare to plant a cold set, it will rot.

    1. Disinfection: There are also several options.
    • Mix 1 tbsp. l. salt and 1 liter. water. Soak in it for half an hour.
    • For a quarter of an hour, the sevok is lowered into saturated potassium permanganate with water (dark in color). Then rinse with water so that the material avoids burns.
    • They are first treated with ash (a handful and 2.5 liters of boiling water). Then doused with cold water. Helps with pests.
    • From fungal diseases, the seeds are lowered into vitriol (1/3 tsp per 5 liters of water) up to 12-15 minutes. Then rinse under water.
    1. Feeding: soak up to 15 minutes in a complex garden fertilizer.

    If you do the right things listed, the bulbs will be prepared for planting. But all preparations are made immediately before landing. Seeds should be planted immediately.

    Important: you need not only to properly prepare, but also store the seedlings for planting in winter. Optimal - 15 degrees and 70% humidity.

    Disinfection is a very important step that protects the seeds from diseases.

    When to plant

    Based on soil temperature. Warm up for planting sevka should be up to 12 degrees. If the temperature is low, they will not tolerate frost. The main growth will go to green stems, and the bulbs themselves will not develop. As a result, the sevka will have a lot of arrows that help the seeds ripen. They will weaken the head, and the onion will not be suitable.

    Table 2. Onion planting dates.

    How to prepare the soil

    The plot has been prepared since autumn. Acceptable soil will be loamy and chernozem, in which there are many nutrients and substances. The acidity is neutral.

    Important: it’s good if crops such as potatoes, peas, beans, and tomatoes grew in this place before onions. Saturate the soil with trace elements useful for growth and development.

    To restore the fertility of the land, fertilizers are applied, for example: 5 kg of humus or manure, which has already overripe, and 5 gr. superphosphate. They also use good compost (1 kg per sq. m.) and wood ash (5 kg per sq. m.).
    If the soil is more loamy, use fertilizer every year. Mix half a bucket of humus, 15 gr. potassium and 25 gr. superphosphate. Scattered per square metre.
    Fertilizers with minerals are added to the soil (kg per 10 sq. M.).

    In autumn, the beds are dug up on one spade bayonet. Lumps should not be broken.
    If the plot did not work out in the autumn months, they scatter ammonium nitrate (18 grams per sq. M.) On top, and in the spring they dig up half a bayonet. After the earth is loosened. This helps retain moisture and prevent the fertilizer from burning the bulbs.

    If the acidity is high, crushed chalk or wood ash (liters per square meter) is added before digging. And if there is more clay in the soil, mix peat and sand from the river into it, and then plow the land. Onions grow much worse on clay.

    Prices for superphosphate

    superphosphate

    Video - Soil fertilization

    Sewing planting technique

    On a convenient site, which is also prepared and fertilized, beds are formed. Smooth out so that moisture does not accumulate.
    On the beds, grooves up to 1.2 cm deep are plowed with a stick. Too deep can not be planted, otherwise they will rise for a long time.

    Table 3. Distance between bulbs when planting.

    If the distance is shorter, the bulbs will grow small and weak. They fall asleep on top of 2 cm with earth or humus for nutrition. Watering is not necessary. In the spring, there is still a lot of moisture in the beds.

    Watering

    For an excellent harvest, watering is provided according to the rules:

    • The first seven days are watered every three days.
    • Then five weeks - once every seven days.

    Important: Basically, the onion is sick due to overflow and stagnation of water in the ground. Therefore, we must be careful.

    • If it is hot outside and there is little watering, the arrows turn white at the tips and bend.
    • The next day after a good watering, the earth is properly loosened. This will give the bulbs more air. And also remove the weeds.
    • When the onion reaches medium size, the soil is raked so that the sun helps to ripen faster.
    • A month before harvest, onions are no longer watered. The heads ripen and dry out, they will be easier to dig out, and they will not rot.

    How to feed

    While the vegetative period is going on, feed it more than 3 times:

    • the first time they feed before you plant;
    • the second time, when the feathers grow to 8 cm;
    • the third at the size of onions as a walnut.

    Take mullein (250 ml per 10 liters of water).
    Another option: herbal tincture. Herbs are put in a barrel (ordinary weeds can be used), mullein or bird droppings are brought in and placed in the sun. Keep for a week, then filter well. Dilute with water (1 to 10) and pour onion with infusion, which has at least five stems.
    After the first half of summer, onions are no longer fed, otherwise they will not be stored well in winter.

    Symptoms for which you need to feed:

    • some greenery, short feathers: the plant lacks nitrogen;
    • pale stems that grow slowly: likewise, lack of nitrogen;
    • the feathers turn gray, and the edges are corrugated: you need to add potassium to the fertilizer;
    • bulbs dry out: need more phosphorus.

    Video - Errors when planting onions

    Disease control

    If the rules for processing, planting or care were violated, the bulbs will get sick with fungal or bacterial diseases.

    To save the bulbs from this, they carry out the prevention of the already planted sevka. When the feathers become 15 cm in size, they are treated with copper sulphate with grated laundry soap (1/2 tsp of vitriol per 1/2 tsp of soap and 5 liters of water).
    Another good protection is provided by dusting with tobacco and wood ash.

    Weeding

    Weeds can pose a significant threat to young plants, so weeding is not delayed. It is impossible to hill up, weeds are removed manually.
    You can not loosen the plants close to the roots.

    Why I decided to try planting onions outdoors

    Onions are one of the most versatile and popular vegetables. In Russian conditions, it is possible to get a rich harvest of this crop by planting plants in open ridges. Every year I grow onions on my own plot, I make stocks for the whole year: they are suitable both for fresh consumption and for preparing various dishes, canned food, pickles.

    A vegetable from its own plot is much better and tastier than store-bought. Not only an experienced gardener, but also a novice and the owner of a modest plot of land will cope with his planting. This is a fairly unpretentious and easy-to-grow culture. The main thing is that the bed is properly prepared, high-quality planting material is in store. It is equally important to observe the terms of disembarkation, to ensure proper care, prevention of diseases and pests.

    When to plant onions outdoors

    A big mistake for beginner gardeners is to sow onions too early. In cold moist soil, it does not germinate, but stops in development, rots. At low temperatures, the culture almost completely goes into arrows. This is a “programmed” self-preservation reaction to sharp frosts - the plant seeks to prepare seeds faster.

    By region

    I start sowing onions when the soil warms up to at least 10 C at the depth of a spade bayonet (15-20 cm). Sowing times vary.

    1. Middle lane. Mid April-mid May.
    2. Ural region. The second half is the end of May.
    3. Northwest. End of April-mid May.
    4. Siberia. The second half is the end of May.

    According to the lunar calendar

    For those who follow the lunar cycles, I will present favorable dates for sowing onions in 2019:

    • April: 22-24, 27-30.
    • May: 12-14, 17-18.

    It is believed that plants planted these days grow more resistant to adverse conditions, healthier and more productive.

    An overview of favorite outdoor varieties

    All onion varieties are divided into the following categories:

    1. According to the duration of the growing season: early, medium, late.
    2. Semi-sharp, spicy and sweet.
    3. By appointment: on the bulb and feather.

    Spicy varieties are early maturing, nutritious, but characterized by low yields. Such varieties are suitable for cultivation in almost any Russian region:

    • Arzamas local;
    • Bessonovsky local;
    • Pogarsky;
    • Rostov;
    • Timiryazevsky.

    Peninsular varieties are distinguished by a rich harvest, but require more careful care, favorable storage conditions. Here are my favorite varieties:

    • Danilovsky;
    • Vishnevsky;
    • Myachkovsky;
    • Kaba;
    • Krasnodar.

    Sweet varieties are more suitable for fresh consumption - they have a short storage period. The most famous variety in the category is Yalta. This juicy, absolutely not bitter onion of a rich purple hue.

    Another variety of varieties - early hybrids. They are intended for cultivation in all open spaces of the Russian Federation. However, the richest harvest can still be harvested by residents of the southern regions. Popular varieties:

    • The globe;
    • Karatal;
    • Carmen;
    • Heroic strength;
    • Red Semko;
    • Stuttgarter Riesen;
    • Centurion.

    Mid-season hybrids are also popular. Such a bow is adapted for long-term transportation, long-term storage. Suitable for both fresh consumption and canning. Popular varieties:

    • Hercules;
    • Bessonovsky;
    • Sturon;
    • Chalcedony.

    Loved by gardeners and late-ripening varieties. They are distinguished by a long shelf life, universal use, excellent taste. These are the varieties:

    • Globo;
    • Bamberger;
    • Exhibition;
    • Red Baron.

    I draw your attention to the popular varieties of shallots:

    • Kunak;
    • Kuban yellow;
    • Belozerets;
    • Shrike.

    Selection of planting material

    Onion sets go on sale in early March. When buying planting material, I follow the rules:

    1. The variety you like should be suitable for the climatic conditions of my region.
    2. I buy sevok only from reliable suppliers, in specialized garden centers.
    3. The seed material must be dry, without damage, without broken, rotten scales.
    4. Bitter and spicy varieties are suitable for long-term storage. These are varieties with a red, brown, yellowish shell.
    5. Purple, white bulbs will decorate summer salads. As autumn, winter supplies, they are not suitable.
    6. Sweet onion - not for long-term storage. It is eaten during the summer season, immediately after harvest.

    Buying a quality set is not enough - it is important to provide it with favorable storage conditions. Otherwise, the bow will go into the arrow - you should not expect a good harvest.

    How to grow onion sets yourself

    You can get your own sets by purchasing black onion seeds. They are planted either in early spring or late autumn in insulated greenhouses. By summer, long-awaited flower stalks appear - black seeds ripen in peculiar umbrellas. They are collected for further cultivation of sevka. The best time for planting is the first year after harvest. Then the probability of germination decreases.

    For sowing seeds, the first thing they do is prepare the soil - close up rotted humus, wood ash. It would be useful to plant plants around the beds that repel onion pests (nematodes, onion fly) - dill, calendula, carrots.

    A distance of at least 2 cm is maintained between seeds. With more frequent planting, further thinning of the sprouts is necessary. Plants need sufficient watering at least 2 times a week. Feeding is limited to diluted mullein (1 part manure to 5 parts water). Watering is stopped 2-3 weeks before the collection of sevka.

    Preparation of planting material for planting

    I buy sevok during March, store it until the landing in April - May. I carry out the following preparation for sowing:

    1. Immediately after the acquisition, I sort out the onions at home - I reject the damaged, rotten, soft ones. Be sure to remove the sevok with traces of fungal infection, covered with cracks. I leave only hard, dry, elastic bulbs with a dense, translucent and shiny husk.
    2. I shift the seed into a wooden box, a cardboard box. I transfer the container to a dry and warm place (21-22 C) with good air ventilation to dry the onions for several days.
    3. I send the box already to a darkened warm place (17-25 C) also well ventilated.
    4. During storage, I check, sort out the sevok, mix the bulbs.

    After storage in a cold place, planting onions immediately into the soil is not worth it - the plant can go into the arrow. It is necessary to preheat the sevok. For 8 hours I keep a box of onions near the radiator. An alternative option is to put the seed in a bowl of warm water (45 C). After such a wet warm-up, it should be dried thoroughly.

    Then comes the disinfection step:

    1. Protection against decay, fungal infections: pale pink manganese or saline (1 tablespoon of salt per 1 liter of water) solution. Onions are soaked for 2-3 hours, after which they are washed under running water.
    2. Protection against nematodes: 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water. The sevok is soaked in the solution for 15 minutes, after which it is washed.
    3. Birch fly protection: 1 tbsp. fly in the ointment for 1 liter of water. The onion is kept in the solution for 15 minutes.
    4. Combined disinfectant solution: 2 tbsp. spoons of salt, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of wood ash, a few crystals of potassium permanganate per 3 liters of heated (up to 60 C) water. You should get a rich pink suspension. In this composition, the onion is aged for 2 hours, after which it is thoroughly washed.

    Next, I use growth stimulants: 1 capsule of "Epin-extra" per ½ bucket of water. I place the seed in the solution for 15 minutes. Such preparation will not only facilitate the subsequent care of the onion, but also protect it from a number of viral diseases.

    Preparation for planting onions in open ground

    A rich quality harvest can only be obtained from a site prepared in accordance with all the rules. Onions respond well to good soil, proper fertilization of the substrate.

    Site selection

    I have been choosing a place for planting onions since autumn. I have the following requirements for the site:

    1. Elevated location.
    2. Sunlight during the day.
    3. No risk of flooding.

    Ravines, lowlands are not the best place for planting a dry-loving crop. There is a high probability that the onion will hurt, rot.

    The best predecessors

    Excellent predecessors for onion beds:

    • cabbage;
    • cucumbers;
    • radish;
    • potato;
    • nightshade;
    • legumes;
    • green manure.

    Do not plant onions after plants:

    • greens;
    • pepper;-
    • garlic.

    Good culture neighbors will be pumpkin, carrots.

    Soil preparation

    Onions prefer a fertile substrate - sandy and loamy. Heavy, clayey, acidic soil is not suitable. In such unfavorable conditions, the onion grows small, of poor quality.

    I start preparing the soil for the onion bed in the fall. I carry out simple procedures:

    1. If necessary - . Used liming, making and, ash.
    2. Organic feeds. For digging, I bring in rotted compost (8 kg per 1 m2), last year's cow manure (5 kg per 1 m2) or chicken manure (200 g per 1 m2). I do not recommend using fresh organics - this threatens that the plantings will go into the feather.
    3. mineral fertilizers. Standard for 1 m2: 20 g of double superphosphate, 15 g of potassium chloride. I apply nitrogen compounds with caution - if the soil is enriched with nitrogen, they are not required.

    In the spring, the bed processed in the fall is again dug up on a spade bayonet, carefully loosened. The following mineral compositions are introduced (per 1 m2 of the plot):

    • superphosphate - 10 g;
    • potassium chloride - 7 g;
    • ammonium nitrate - 20 g.

    If you did not have time to prepare the soil in the fall, carry out the following spring activities:

    1. organic fertilizers. Compost - 3-4 kg per 1 m2.
    2. mineral compounds. Per 1 m2 of land: potassium - 5 g, phosphorus - 6 g, nitrogen - 4 g. All these fertilizers can be replaced with 60 g of nitrophoska.

    All mineral supplements are applied in the form of an aqueous solution. Approximately 1 bucket of this composition is consumed per 1 m2 of land.

    To improve the composition of the substrate, in the fall I sow green manure on the future onion ridge. As the green manure grows, I plant it in the soil. This is sufficient nitrogen fertilization, improvement of the earth.

    Bed preparation

    The most preferred for onions are high warm ridges. I raise them with boards, bricks to a height of 15-20 cm. The standard width of such a warm ridge is 1 m.

    After applying all the necessary fertilizers, I level the surface of the earth with a rake. It remains to make furrows and proceed to a direct landing.

    How to plant onions in open ground

    I plan to sow onions on a fine and warm day. To avoid infection of the sevka with viral infections, I do not plant it in the same place earlier than 3-4 years.

    1. The depth of the furrow is 15-20 cm.
    2. If the substrate is dry, then the grooves are pre-spilled with water or a weak suspension of Fitosporin.
    3. Sevok is always sown with deepening: the bulbs are gently pressed into the furrows along the “shoulders” - by about 2/3.
    4. Depending on the size of the seed, a distance of 5-10 cm is maintained between the bulbs.
    5. Before falling asleep with earth, the seedlings are lightly dusted with ash.
    6. Bulbs fall asleep 2 cm of loosened substrate. If the substrate is light, the sowing is already deepened by 3-4 cm.

    After planting, the beds no longer need watering.

    Landing patterns

    I advise you to also focus on the size of the onions:

    1. Small (up to 1.5 cm in diameter). Sevok is sown the very first - it is resistant to small cold snaps, does not go into the arrow under adverse conditions. Between the bulbs stand 5-7 cm.
    2. Medium (1.5-2 cm in diameter). Onions can only be planted in thawed and well-warmed soil. The minimum step between plants is 7-9 cm.
    3. Large (more than 3 cm). Such a bow is fraught with shooting, so heat treatment is required before planting it. The smallest distance between plantings is 10 cm.

    By choosing the right scheme depending on the size of the seed, you will create favorable conditions for the maturation of a large, undeformed crop.

    Care after planting onions in open ground

    Onions do not require exquisite care - only weed removal, watering, loosening are required. Fertilizers are needed only for those plants, the ridges for which were not prepared in advance.

    Watering

    I recommend the following watering rules:

    1. In the first half of the growing season, the crop requires at least two waterings per week.
    2. 30 days before harvesting, water procedures stop completely.
    3. For watering choose morning, evening, cloudy days.

    top dressing

    If you have already fertilized in spring and autumn, then feeding onions as they grow is not required. Otherwise, two fertilizers are needed:

    1. The appearance of 3-4 adult feathers. Mineral fertilizers are used (per 2-3 m2 of ridge): superphosphate - 40 g, ammonium nitrate - 30 g, potassium chloride - 20 g. Dry dressings are mixed in 10 liters of water.
    2. Half a month later. Again, mineral top dressing is required: superphosphate - 60 g, ammonium nitrate - 30 g, potassium chloride - 30 g. Fertilizers are diluted in 10 liters of water.

    Onions do not need organic fresh fertilizer - excess nitrogen can deprive you of the crop.

    What difficulties can arise when planting onions in open ground

    To collect a good onion crop, you need to carry out the prevention of common diseases and enemies of the plant in time. I will introduce you to the main problems and how to solve them.

    Pest control

    I will list the main enemies of the plant:

    1. Onion thrips. When a pest appears, the feather begins to turn yellow, dry out. To resist it, it is required to comply with the rules of crop rotation, storage of bulbs, pre-planting seedlings. The pest is repelled by marigolds, calendula. Thrips is resisted with infusion of celandine, garlic, onion solution.
    2. Weevil. Prevention consists in timely loosening, mulching of the soil, spring disinfection of seedlings. To scare away the weevil is really dusting with a mixture of tobacco and ash, ground pepper, dried herbs - tansy, celandine.
    3. Onion fly. You can prevent the appearance of a pest by weeding, destroying onion tops, removing weak plants, and loosening row spacing. The insect is repelled by dusting with ash, tobacco dust, planting wormwood, calendula, yarrow, marigolds. In the event of a pest invasion, they are watered with salt water, a weak manganese solution.

    With the dominance of pests, they turn to chemical preparations - Iskra, dust, Metaphos, karbofos, Summer Resident, thiophos.

    Disease prevention

    I will present common onion diseases and measures to prevent them:

    1. Fusarium. Compliance with the rules of crop rotation, timely loosening, treatment with ash solution, prevention of onion flies.
    2. Peronosporosis. Seed processing before planting, timely fertilization, autumn soil disinfection, weed removal.
    3. Gray rot. The correct onion itself, warming up, disinfecting the sevka, disinfecting the soil before planting.
    4. Bacterial rot. Use of high-quality seed, compliance with the rules of transportation and storage, protection from pests.

    You are convinced that growing onions in an open ridge is a feasible task for both an experienced and a novice gardener. Quality preparation is important - both soil, beds, and seed. In the future, the bow does not require complex care. To reap a rich harvest, do not forget about the prevention of common onion diseases and pests.

    Onion is an ancient culture (it is more than 6 thousand years old), but it does not lose its popularity. Perennials are grown in various ways: for turnips and greens for food use. Most often, summer residents practice planting onions on a head in the spring, so that they can have useful vitamins in their diet during the cold season.

    Briefly about agricultural technology

    Onions are grown in all dachas, but high yields are obtained on fertile soil with a loose structure. In this case, it is desirable to maintain the pH reaction at a neutral level. The depleted land is enriched with organic matter in advance (since autumn), embedding it to the entire depth of the cultural layer. In the spring, before planting, mineral fertilizers are applied to the site.

    Onions can also grow in a shaded area, but in the end the summer resident will harvest a small crop. Therefore, you should not treat culture as a secondary one, but plant it in illuminated beds.

    Planting onions in spring

    Crop rotation also influences a good harvest. You can not grow onions after lily "relatives": asparagus, garlic. But the beds after potatoes, peas, cucumbers and tomatoes are saturated with trace elements useful for turnips.

    What onion to plant in the spring on the head

    A beginner gardener uses bulbs of different sizes to obtain heads. An experienced farmer knows that it is better to take seedlings for planting, but not all, but with a diameter of 1.7-2.1 cm. Smaller onions are usually used for growing greens.

    In order to end up with a good head, the planting beam should weigh 2-3 g. The turnip itself is not always used - the larger the bulb, the longer it takes root and the later it yields. There is also a big risk that an arrow will appear on the turnip. To prevent this from happening, a large onion should be planted a little later than a small one.

    In addition, the following requirements are imposed on the seed material:

    • the entire beam must be dry and elastic;
    • sevok is excluded, on which the sprouts have hatched, or the roots are covered with a white coating;
    • reject onions with mechanical damage;
    • sevki should not smell like mold, rot and dampness.

    Sets of the same size are calibrated in the garden so that the development is uniform.

    Only under these conditions will you get a high-quality head of a marketable appearance, designed for a long shelf life. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the age of the sowing beam should be a year, a maximum of two.

    Another important point is the right choice of variety, because not every one of them is suitable for growing per head. Below are the most popular for central Russia.

    The best onion varieties for growing per head

    VarietyDescription
    red baronGives a red head with a semi-sharp taste. Early variety - 90-95 days of vegetation. Good maturation, keeping quality, resistance to shooting. From one square meter you can take up to 3 kg of onions
    Stuttgarten riesenMedium ripeness, quite productive (up to 5 kg/sq.m). The weight of a slightly flattened onion is 150 g, but it can also be grown up to 250 g. The flesh is white, juicy, spicy, covered with golden husks
    Centurion F1Attracts gardeners with stable yields, high keeping quality, resistance to shooting. The hybrid belongs to the very early varieties. Gives a slightly elongated medium head
    Rostov LocalA sharp variety with a yellow flat bulb, zoned for the southern region. Ripens in 70-90 days, yields up to 2.5 kg per 1 sq.m.

    Residents of the Non-Black Earth Region should pay attention to the Bessonovsky and Strigunovsky varieties.

    How and when to plant onions in spring

    The culture is grown as an annual and biennial. The second option is suitable for planting onions on the head, if the gardener independently breeds varieties from seeds (nigella). Although planting material can not be harvested from last year, but bought immediately before spring sowing.

    "When to plant an onion on a head?" - an urgent question for inexperienced gardeners. Many of them try to take the lunar calendar as a basis, determining for themselves the most favorable day for the work.

    Experienced farmers are more guided by the climatic features of their region. After waiting for winter to give up ground, gardeners begin preparatory work in the beds, but they are not in a hurry to plant onions yet - they are waiting for the soil to “ripen” for planting (i.e. warm up). In some regions, this period falls on April, in others - in May.

    Guided by the climatic features of their region

    If it is possible to grow onion seedlings, you can start sowing at the end of March. To do this, it is not necessary to have greenhouses or heated greenhouses - the seedlings feel great on the windowsills. When the feather on the bulbs reaches 8 cm, the seedlings are planted in the beds.

    Preparing for landing

    Having selected a bow suitable for planting, it must be properly prepared. To begin with, they warm up under the rays of the sun, for this, setting the container on the windowsill of the south window. If this is not possible, then the boxes with sevka are distributed on heating radiators (in private houses - on the stove).

    After 2-3 weeks, they start etching using a warm solution of manganese or "Fitosporin". The onion is kept for 15 minutes, then the product must be drained, and the planting material should be slightly dried and immediately planted in the garden.

    Landing

    Having decided which period is most suitable for work, they begin to solve the following problem: how to plant an onion on a head in the spring correctly. They begin their actions with the formation of rows.

    You can plant onions in the grooves marked with an elementary scribe, placing the grooves at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. The spacing between the bulbs in the furrow depends on the diameter of the seed:

    • with small sowing - 6 cm;
    • medium onions are placed after 8 cm;
    • a large sample needs more space - 10-12 cm.

    On a loose prepared bed, you can do without furrows - it is enough to evenly distribute holes along the strip, 2 cm deep. They are marked with a stick of a suitable diameter or use home-made markers that allow you to form several holes at the same time.

    By the way, egg trays are great for this. The cell parameters and the spacing between them are the right size.

    Is it possible to plant onion seeds on a head in spring

    As mentioned above, good heads are obtained from sets, which are just grown from seeds. In the southern regions, some varieties are used in annual turnover.

    Varieties for growing heads from seeds

    In the Ural region, where the warm period is shorter, the seed is used to grow seedlings, which are planted in beds in May.

    Varieties of nigella for seedlings

    VarietyDescription
    YukontThe pungent onion has a simplified rounded head with purple scales. The average weight of a turnip ranges from 30-80 g with a ripening period of 90 days. Fairly hardy productive variety
    KabaThe aging period is 120-140 days. The head is large, iron-shaped, with brownish-yellow scales and a semi-sweet taste.
    Golden SemkoEarly ripe - up to 90 days when grown from seeds. The bulbs are rounded, weighing 80 g. In the process of ripening, the scales change color from white to light brown. The yield is stable - up to 3.5 kg per square meter. Keeping quality is high - about 90% of the crop is stored for at least six months

    When to plant an onion on a head in the Moscow region: folk signs

    The Moscow region belongs to the climatic zone with unstable weather conditions. The spring season is especially volatile. It is not for nothing that people associate this period with the character of an evil stepmother: it will warm, then it will blow with a cold wind and pour rain.

    March is the most capricious - the time for preliminary garden chores. If seedlings are needed, then in this month (numbers 10-15) the nigella is planted in boxes with earth. Sevok is sent to open ground when the soil temperature rises above 5 degrees Celsius.

    The beds with sevka are immediately covered with a film frame. This will protect the onions from recurrent frosts and speed up the ripening of the bulbs. But as soon as heat is established, the film must be opened, otherwise the onion will overheat.

    In April, seedlings can already be taken out to greenhouses. If it is grown on the windowsill, then it's time for hardening.

    The last month of spring is the full mobilization of the workforce. No wonder people say that the May day feeds the whole year.

    Gardeners of the Moscow region should not rely entirely on lunar calendars, looking for the optimal number for planting onions. The beginning of May for many is the time for sowing chernushka in the beds and planting onion seedlings. There is even a specific day for this - on Luka, May 5th. But year after year is not necessary, so it is recommended to monitor the weather.

    Previously, the ancestors did not use calendars - they were guided by nature. On the 1st day of the month (at Kuzma) they looked at the weather. If the day turned out to be warm, frosts should be expected soon.

    Bird cherry has always been a signal for mass planting. Once the trees have blossomed, you can safely plant almost all crops. As for the onion, here, in addition, there is such a sign - you need to wait for the flowering of violets and willow-delusions.

    The beds with sevka are immediately covered with a film frame

    If the apple trees did not bloom on Mark (May 8), autumn will turn out to be lean. Such a forecast is given by the folk calendar. Therefore, the summer resident will have to make every effort not to be left out.

    By the end of May, thinning of the seedlings is carried out, maintaining a gap of 5 cm. If the season turned out to be little rainy, the beds with onions are periodically watered. A mulch made from rotted straw will help retain moisture.

    As for the varieties, for the Moscow region, Khiberina MS with an early ripening period is most acceptable. Even with average agricultural technology per square meter, you can get up to 5.5 kg of a head, weighing 125 g each. To increase productivity, it is recommended to use the advice of experienced gardeners.

    Help for newbies

    • The Moscow region, the Kaliningrad district and other nearby regions are areas where it is better to use narrow beds (mitliders) for onions;
    • Autumn site preparation is carried out not only with the application of fertilizers - it is also worth adding tomato tops and other plant residues to the soil;
    • Before planting, the bottom of the furrows should be sprinkled with dry sand mixed with ash;
    • If there is no desire (or time) to mess with the pre-treatment of planting material, you can use the varieties of Dutch selection (the same Centurion);
    • It is not worth deepening the bulbs when planting by more than 2 cm - they will begin to ripen later and can give an arrow;
    • The bulb is lowered into the ground up to the shoulders, but the neck should not peek out - it is better to sprinkle it with a small layer of earth to form a tubercle of 1.5-2 cm;
    • Some gardeners prune the onion before planting, but this is not acceptable for the Moscow region - there is a high risk of infection;
    • If the sevok is too small in fraction, it is planted early (such onions easily tolerate frosts). It is better to plant a turnip closer to mid-May in order to preserve the harvest;
    • You can not plant onions if the soil is already dry. In this case, the grooves are moistened the day before sowing;
    • 2 weeks after planting, the bed is watered with a solution of mullein. This will fertilize the onion and strengthen the immune system;
    • Weeding from weeds should be carried out in a timely manner. If time has been lost, then it is better not to pull out the weed grass that has grown above the onion feather, but to cut it with scissors.

    You should not plant onions of the same variety on the beds if you are not sure that it will give a good harvest. Choosing a variety of culture, take into account the regionality of the variety. If the head will be grown for long-term storage, then preference should be given to sharp turnips.

    Recently, family onions have become popular. A multi-primary variety allows you to get up to 30 bulbs in one nest, weighing from 25 to 50 g each. In taste, they are in no way inferior to ordinary turnips.

    Good day dear readers and guests of the blog!

    Let's talk about onions today

    They say I'm bitter

    They say I'm sweet.

    green arrow

    I grow in the garden. I am the most useful,

    In that I give my word.

    Eat me with everyone -

    You will be healthy!

    An ordinary fruit, but won love due to its taste properties. On Russian soil, the first mention of this vegetable appeared at the beginning of the 12th century.

    The history of this vegetable is quite amazing. In Asia, nomads discovered wild onions, at first they ate only green feathers, then they began to eat the head as well. On trade routes, he gets to Egypt and gained popularity there. In ancient times, the Germans and Romans took several long bunches of vegetables on military campaigns to maintain vigor, energy and fight dangerous colds and infectious diseases.

    And we are grateful that we were presented with an irreplaceable product, both in the culinary and medicinal sense, without which it is difficult to imagine a delicious soup, salad or gravy.

    Chefs all over the world, when preparing various dishes, use both seasoning (for salads, mushrooms, meat and vegetable dishes), and a flavoring additive for sauces, minced meats, soups and gravies.

    Many gardeners grow onions for turnips, which are stored for quite a long time. Planting this vegetable on a turnip is carried out in the spring, and simple rules will allow you to collect a large and high-quality crop.

    Planting onion sets according to the lunar calendar in 2020

    Many gardeners prefer to plant according to the lunar calendar, so as not to be disappointed later, which is a kind of cheat sheet for us, since scientists have long proven the relationship between plant growth and development depending on the movement of the moon.

    Auspicious days for planting onion sets on the head:

    • March - 4, 5, 6, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 27, 28;
    • April - 1, 2, 10, 12, 13, 14, 18, 19, 28, 29;
    • May - 5, 6, 11, 12, 25, 26.

    It is not always possible to plant sevok during this period, but it is advisable not to ignore unfavorable days:

    • March - 9, 10, 20-21, 23-24;
    • April - 7.8, 16, 17, 22, 23
    • May - 6, 7, 13, 14, 22.23;
    • June - 1, 2, 22

    Knowing this, we can plan the spring planting of the sevka in advance and prepare the material and the site.

    How to choose an onion for planting

    There are sets on sale, selected according to the size of the bulbs, but which one is better to use for planting in the spring on a feather and head, now we will figure it out, since the diameter directly affects the final result.

    Seed classification by size:

    8-14 mm - small, should not be used for spring planting, will lag behind in development by 3 weeks.

    15-21 mm - medium, very well suited for spring planting on the head and more resistant to shooting;

    22-24 mm - large, suitable for growing on a feather, as it has early maturation;

    25-30 mm - very large, appeared recently, but suitable only for growing on a feather.

    There are other criteria to help you make the right choice. In appearance, the bulbs should not show signs of deformation and damage, as well as suspicious spots, should be dense and dry to the touch (slight moisture is allowed upon purchase), dry at home by pouring a thin layer on the newspaper.

    How to choose the right variety?

    To grow a good harvest, we select the right variety, taking into account the climatic features of the region and the composition of the soil.

    When buying seed, you need to pay attention to its variety and ripening time.

    It is enough to add 7 - 10 days for the sevka to germinate and you will get the estimated date of planting. There are many different varieties with different growing seasons.

    There are varieties:

    • early (up to 90 days),
    • mid-season (100-120 days)
    • late (over 120 days).

    Plants can form one or two bulbs or be multi-nested.

    There are sweet varieties that are delicious in salads and marinades.

    Semi-sharp and spicy give the dishes an original taste.

    There are other criteria: cold hardiness, yield, disease resistance, yield and keeping quality.

    The best harvest is obtained on loose and fertile soils, provided that a zoned variety is selected.

    Popular early ripe onion varieties

    "Stuttgarten Riesen" - a popular early variety of German breeding, zoned for the Volga-Vyatka region, forms only one bulb of a large (up to 95 g) size and flat-round shape with a brown-golden color of the outer scales, has a pronounced pungent taste and good yield, good stored, but resistant to diseases: neck rot and powdery mildew.

    “Strigunovsky local” is a sharp variety of domestic selection that has been tested for decades, is suitable for any type of processing, is also good fresh, the fruit weight reaches 80 g. The color of the bulbs after ripening is golden yellow, and the inner scales are white, it and in cool climates, it keeps well.

    "Farmer Early" is an ultra-early two-rudimentary variety with fruits of a sharp taste, a head of dense structure and a classic round shape, high-yielding, versatile in use, resistant to the vagaries of weather and diseases, perfectly stored.

    "Hercules" mid-early hybrid. From planting sevka to mass lodging of leaves 70-80 days. The head is rounded, weighing 130 g, the bite is sharp. It is characterized by rapid growth and bulb formation. Resistant to shooting, suitable for long-term storage.

    "Rostovsky local" - an early early ripening variety bred in the Yaroslavl province, to this day remains one of the best biennial species for cultivation in the northern regions of Russia. Rounded golden bulbs ripen in 75 to 90 days, the advantage of the variety is a long shelf life.

    Mid-season varieties

    "Golden" - differs in a flat-round shape of golden-pink heads. Sometimes the fruits can be elongated and have a brown tint on the outer scales. The inner juicy part is always snow-white. The variety has a characteristic pungent taste and high yield. A feature of the variety is its commitment to areas with a warm climate.

    "Supra" is a mid-late variety, grown as an annual, dark golden rounded and dense heads can reach 250 g in weight (if grown through seedlings), is not afraid of diseases and pests, is excellently stored without losing its taste and appearance, adapts well to adverse weather conditions.

    "Alvina" - mid-season, which is grown as a biennial or as an annual, pleasant, semi-sharp taste and quite large, productive with excellent keeping quality.

    "Sturon" is the result of selection "Stuttgarten Riesen". Unpretentious in cultivation, ripens in 100-115 days. The turnip has an elongated shape and weighs about 200 grams.

    The best late varieties of onions

    "Snowball" is one of the best white varieties of late-ripening onions, worthy of attention due to its unpretentiousness and resistance to natural whims, it is well stored and resistant to shooting.

    "Farmer Late" - late ripening, can be grown as an annual crop, getting dense dark golden bulbs weighing up to 250 g. When grown through seedlings, this parameter can reach 350 g, high yield, good resistance to diseases, the possibility of long-term storage.

    “Senator” is a mid-late variety, round, even and dense bulbs, which reach a weight of up to 200 g, it is recommended to grow through seedlings, good tolerance to weather surprises, excellent resistance to fungal diseases.

    It is not difficult to grow onions, but sometimes it takes two years to harvest, and with proper agricultural practices, harvesting and subsequent storage, the vegetable is able to maintain its marketable appearance until the next harvest.

    Shallot

    Biennial plant. It is also called a magpie because from one set a large nest of several onions is formed. Depending on the variety, such a nest can have 5-20 bulbs.

    When sowing seeds in the first year, seed onions (sets) ripen, which are planted in the next season to obtain a crop.

    Green, tender shoots are a great salad ingredient. Its greenery can be enjoyed all spring.

    This species loves soil rich in organic matter. They plant it in spring in cool ground, at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Autumn planting will allow you to get a crop 2-3 weeks earlier than spring.

    How to store sevok before planting in spring in an apartment

    When you are looking forward to the start of a new summer season - spring, it is difficult to resist buying from buying a set. And very often the question arises: "What to do next with this mesh and how to save it until planting in the ground?".

    In the absence of a cellar, you can store the seed in a warm way, at home. The place where it should be ventilated, be dry. Desirable temperature is from 18 to 22 °С. Desirable humidity 65-75%.

    You can check the humidity in the room with a HYGROMETER.

    How to prepare onions for planting in spring

    If we buy planting material in a store, it must be warmed up 2-3 days before planting

    There are several ways to process onions to avoid many problems during the growing process, but a mandatory procedure is to warm up the planting material, which helps to reduce the appearance of arrows.

    Just before planting, pour the sevok into a bucket and fill it with water for 2 minutes (45 0 - 50 0 C), then lower it for 1 minute in cold water, if we don’t do this, the bow can go into the arrow.

    After warming up, soak in a nutrient solution (we dilute 1 tablespoon of Intermag Garden for bulbous and 5 drops of a growth regulator in 10 liters of water) for 12 hours, after which we proceed to planting, spill the grooves with the remaining solution.

    In order for the sevok to germinate faster, we cut off part of the dry neck of the bulb, then soak it for a day in warm water at 30 ° C, then lower it for 15 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 l of water).

    Treatment with potassium permanganate, baking soda or phytosporin will help get rid of diseases.

    Whatever method of preparation you choose, be sure to disinfect it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

    You can also use a solution of copper sulphate, dissolving 35 grams of blue powder in 10 liters of water, after which we again wash the seeds well.

    With the preparation of both the soil and the seed material is completed, and you can safely plant onions.

    Preliminary preparation of beds and soil

    This culture prefers to grow on loam and sandy soil. A good harvest can be obtained if the soil is loose and free from weeds. The best soils are fertile sandy and loamy, good predecessors are cucumbers, cabbage, root crops. If you plant seedlings in the spring on the site after carrots, cucumbers or garlic, then the heads will develop slowly and the harvest will be poor.

    It is advisable to start preparing the beds in the fall, for this we dig it to the depth of a shovel, clean it from weeds and add a bucket of humus or compost per 1 sq.m (if the soil is clay, you need to add half a bucket of sawdust), as well as wood ash in the amount of 1 kg per 1 sq. meter.

    If for some reason we didn’t prepare in the fall, it’s okay, we’ll do it in the spring a month before planting. In addition to humus, we also introduce a complex of mineral fertilizers for onions (a tablespoon of superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea and 3 cups of wood ash per 1 sq.m). We dig everything well, level and spill the bed, then we mark the rows at a distance of 18-20 cm, between the sets 10 cm.

    Onion sets love sunny, well-ventilated areas, this will protect crops from powdery mildew, planting in the same area two years in a row is undesirable.

    How and when to plant sevok

    Planting is carried out in the spring, as soon as stable, warm weather is established and the soil warms up well, in insufficiently warm soil, below 12-14 ° C, the vegetable can go to the arrow, so it is recommended to start work when the threat of frost disappears, the time for planting is chosen at late April - early May. The delay in sowing also affects the future harvest, because due to high temperatures and lack of moisture, the bulbs develop much more slowly, my grandmother advises planting as soon as bird cherry blossoms (in early May).

    In the Middle lane (in the Moscow region), onion planting is best done in May.

    When planting the sevok, we deepen it flush with the soil and squeeze it well around the bulb, pour it with warm water and cover it with non-woven material

    Onion plantings need timely loosening, watering and top dressing.

    Proper bow planting- the key to a good harvest. All novice gardeners are wondering how to grow a good crop? There are secrets, of course, and we will reveal them to you.

    Planting the prepared sevka is as follows:

    • before planting the planting material, the surface of the bed is slightly rolled up, a flat surface should be obtained;
    • after that we form shallow grooves, their depth should be about 2-4 cm (depending on the size of the head), at a shallow depth the root system develops poorly and the crop will be small and not tasty;

    • the distance between the furrows should be approximately 20-25 cm; between sets 8-10 cm;

    first, small onions should be planted, the diameter of which does not exceed one centimeter (they will not form arrows);

    • after 1-2 weeks we plant larger specimens (l. 1-2 cm), if planted simultaneously with small ones, then the set will go into the arrow;
    • then the heads are covered with earth from above (2-3 cm) and the earth around the bulbs is compacted.

    Planting is completed and it remains to properly water and feed our plantings.

    How to properly care for sevka after planting

    Onions are demanding for watering.

    The first two months we water 1-2 times a week, we do it carefully so as not to break the leaves.

    We stop watering two to three weeks before harvesting, but you need to make sure that the soil does not dry out.

    If the weather is dry, we spill our bed 3-4 times a month to a depth of 12 cm, do not forget to slightly loosen the soil and mulch with humus.

    top dressing

    At the beginning of growth, the onion is responsive to the application of mineral and organic fertilizers (for 10 liters of water, 1 glass of mullein and 1 tablespoon of urea) per 1 sq m 5 liters of solution.

    At the end of May, it is necessary to feed it with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, in mid-June, it needs potassium fertilizers and ammonium nitrate.

    In the period between top dressing, the soil around the plant is sprinkled with ash (1.5 cups per 1 sq.m).

    Green fertilizers from weeds and nettles are also suitable.

    Top dressing with ammonia will drive away pests and nourish your plantings with the necessary nitrogen: 2 tbsp. l ammonia dissolved in 10 liters of water.

    We do this top dressing with an interval of 10 days and we will forget about the yellowing of the feather and get rid of the onion fly.

    In the future, we carry out top dressing of crops per head as necessary:

    if the feathers grow short - lack of nitrogen;

    pale leaves - lack of nitrogen;

    feathers with corrugated edges - lack of potassium;

    bulbs begin to dry - lack of phosphorus.

    Weeding and care

    If we want to get a crop of onions - good quality turnips, then they do not cut off a green feather from it (it is better to plant greens separately in spring).

    We have organized a good bed, in a lit place, with nutritious soil, it remains to weed it in time so that the weeds do not interfere with the growth of the crop.

    If ripening is delayed (the feather is green and our fruit is not dressed in a shirt), ripening can be accelerated, for this we rake the ground from the bulbs and cut the roots to a depth of 5 cm below the bottom, after which ripening will go faster.

    Onion diseases and prevention

    Planting plants such as marigolds, dill drives away pests.

    When signs of diseases appear, we stop watering and nitrogen fertilizing, sprinkle the beds with wood ash, loosen the soil well and destroy the remnants of weeds, then pull out the infected plants and spill the affected area with a solution of potassium permanganate.

    Folk remedies can also help in the fight against pests and diseases.

    We make infusions from dandelion, celandine, marigolds, you can also pollinate with tobacco dust or treat crops with a solution of sodium chloride (3 tablespoons of salt per 10 liters of water)

    Downy mildew - the disease manifests itself in dense plantings, in rainy weather, with a lack of sunlight, yellowish spots appear on the leaves, soon the affected leaves die off, then the infection penetrates the bulb. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to warm up the planting material before laying in storage and before planting. Three weeks after germination, we spray with a solution of copper oxychloride (1.5 tablespoons of a solution of copper oxychloride per 10 liters of water), spray at the rate of 1 liter of solution per 3 sq.m.

    neck rot

    Signs of the disease are noticeable a month after harvesting, the bulb becomes wet, begins to rot, the husk is covered with gray mold with a black coating. To prevent this disease, do not be late with cleaning, then dry thoroughly in the sun, then dry near heating appliances for 24 hours.

    black mold

    Black mold is a fungal disease that develops at elevated air temperatures during storage. Control measures include heating and drying the bulbs.

    Preventive work to combat pests and diseases dramatically reduces the risk of their occurrence, and if we follow some rules: crop rotation, disinfection of planting material, digging the soil, fertilizing (without excess), weed control, harvesting root crops in dry weather, thorough drying of the crop, the likelihood of onion disease will be minimized.

    When to collect and how to store

    Harvest of onions falls on the end of July - mid-August, it depends on weather conditions.

    The vegetable is ready for harvest when the formation of young leaves and the beginning of lodging have stopped, the fruits have fully formed and acquired the color characteristic of this variety.

    If you are late with harvesting, then in a week growth can resume and such a crop is not stored for a long time.

    We clean in dry weather, dig in with a pitchfork and carefully pull out the leaves from the soil, clean the bulb from the ground with our hands (do not shake it), because the onion can be damaged and will rot, then lay it out in the sun for drying for two days (do not forget to clean in the evening) or in a well-ventilated dry room, after that you can braid it, but you can cut the leaves, leaving a neck 4 cm long and dry it again at a higher temperature for 5-6 days, the fallen husk of the bulb is removed as it dries. This method will reduce the number of diseased bulbs. It is recommended to dust the crop with chalk.

    Store at home at a temperature of plus 18 - 25 0 C.

    To get a tasty and good harvest, it is advisable to follow simple recommendations.

    There is nothing difficult in growing this useful root crop, and you will definitely succeed.

    Have a rich harvest!

    Loading...Loading...