How to make an origami bee out of paper. The structure of a bee is an example of a complex organism

Once you have decided to become a beekeeper and bought a couple of families, it's time for new hives. Families grow and swarm, and they need to be planted in new houses. You can, of course, buy ready-made ones, but buying used ones is dangerous. It is not known what diseases you can buy with them, but the new prices bite. One thing remains - to make beehives for bees with your own hands according to the drawings. If you know all the manufacturing rules, then it is not difficult at all.

In this article, we will just talk about making hives with our own hands, the correct sizes and drawings for them. We learn what a hive lounger is and how to make it.

In ancient times, beekeepers extracted honey in the hollows of trees, then they began to hollow out logs for bees. With the development of beekeeping, they began to make evidence for bees with their own hands of various designs, and the material used for them is different.

Tree

The classic option for making hives for bees. In such houses, the bees feel in natural conditions, close to natural. The best type of wood for making will be cedar, although linden and aspen are also possible. These hives breathe better, smell good and are dry.

Aspen and linden hives require additional insulation in winter. And these are expensive materials.

Some beekeepers are engaged in making hives with their own hands from cheaper materials. This is pine, spruce, fir. But in such evidence, the bees are not comfortable. They collect moisture and resins, especially in new ones.. Pine smell. There is only one good thing about them, they are warm and require minimal insulation for the winter.

Plywood

Durable and environmental material. A house made of it must be covered with paints and insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam, then it will be dry and warm in it. But plywood is afraid of moisture and requires constant and proper care.

Styrofoam

A modern material used by beekeepers to make hives. It has a low cost and does not require additional insulation in the winter.

The disadvantage of this material is fragility and brittleness. If poor quality is chosen, then the deterioration of honey is possible.

Styrofoam

The most economical option. It is possible to use packaging from household appliances. The advantage of this material is its lightness even with filled frames. Excellent thermal insulation. The downside of this material is its fragility and permanent coloration, so that it does not crumble from exposure to sunlight.

Polyurethane

Excellent thermal insulation properties. Does not rot, does not decompose. It does not develop fungus and bacteria. It does not allow moisture to pass through and it does not accumulate inside. Bees, mice and birds do not like to gnaw it.

A slight disadvantage is its combustibility and ventilation is required, because it does not allow air to pass through.

Having carefully studied the characteristics of the material, you can begin to build a hive. Consider options for the construction of wooden and foam houses.

Types and designs of hives

Houses for bees are divided by design:

• collapsible;
• non-separable.

Almost no one uses the latter because of the complexity of care.. All beekeepers use frame hives, where the number of frames can vary. A do-it-yourself beehive sunbed for 24 frames is popular. However, there are options for 16 and 20 frames.

In turn, frame hives are divided into:

• horizontal;
• vertical.

Horizontal or "bed" consists of one body. The expansion goes to the sides. It is easy to work with such evidence, change the number of frames, but they have a drawback - they are bulky and heavy.

Vertical ones consist of several buildings. This form is lightweight and portable.

Both forms use multiple sections. They are separated by partitions, which allows you to change the volume in any direction.

Popular Designs

Dadanovsky

It is used in almost all apiaries. It is made of wood (cedar, spruce, pine, linden, aspen). Differs in simplicity and spaciousness. Consists of 12 frames and can be supplemented, as the family grows, with shops or buildings. In winter, bees are kept in the nest compartment. With the onset of heat and an increase in the family, they are placed in corps.

Alpine

Multihull hive. Created by French beekeeper Roger Delon. Made according to the principle of a hollow. That is, the natural living conditions of bees have been created and taken into account.

Compact design is convenient for limited spaces. It has no partitions and ventilation holes. Air naturally enters through the notch.

Ruta

This do-it-yourself bee house designed for keeping bees in the southern regions, because due to the constant rearrangements of the buildings, hypothermia of the house occurs. Consists of 6 cases on 10 frames.

Cassette

In connection with the increase in the incidence of bees among beekeepers, cluster hives have become popular. Such evidence have thin partitions, so the bees create their own microclimate.

It is made only from wood and impregnated with wax, so the bees in them are less susceptible to diseases.

Ukrainian lounger

This design of the hive in size is the most suitable for beginners. They are easy to service. Easy to build, which will allow you to master the skills of beekeeping. Usually such a hive for 20 frames. The sides of the house are insulated, so the bees winter well in them.

There are many designs of evidence, but let's dwell in more detail on the classic, sunbed with a different number of frames and a multi-hull bezelless. In this case, there are bee hives for 16, 20 and 24 frames.

How to build a classic hive step by step

Due to the ease of manufacture, the Dadanovsky hive is considered a classic option.

For the manufacture of hives, it is better to use natural materials.

The classic design for the production of hives consists of:

1. One or more buildings.
2. One or two shops.
3. Roof lining.
4. The bottom of the hive.
5. Ceiling.
6. Roofs.
7. Framework.
8. Feeders.
9. Insert board.

Instructions for a house for bees with drawings

And now let's talk about how to make a beehive with your own hands step by step. The size of the hive for bees can be very different, but we will focus on one option. For this you will need:

The lid and liner require a board 15 mm thick. Collect and cover with tin so that water does not get in. Paint. Make ventilation holes with a diameter of 1.4 cm.

• back and front shield (cm): width 53, height 32, thickness 4.
• side shield (cm): width 48, height 32, thickness 4.
• inner (cm): width 45, height 45, thickness 32.

In order to place the frames in the case, it is required to make folds.

Dimensions 1.1 * 2 cm.

If there is a multi-hull bee hive, then the dimensions will be different: 1 * 1.4 cm.

Frame located in the nest - 43.5 * 30 cm;

Store frame - 43.5 * 14.5 cm;

The distance from the walls of the case to the side rails is 0.07 cm;

Space under the frame - 2.5 cm;

Frame side width - 3.7 cm.

Hive-lounger for 16, 20 and 24 frames: drawings and dimensions

Hive-lounger for 16, 20 and 24 frames

What tools and material will be needed?

1. Wood, plywood, foam.
2. Rulers, or roulettes.
3. Squares;
4. Hacksaws.
5. Hammers.
6. Drill, drill, screws.
7. Chisels.
8. Glue.
9. Carrying handles.
10. Galvanized sheet for the roof.
11. Frames in the amount of 24 pieces.

Hive dimensions:

• frames 30 * 43.5 cm;
• body (cm): length 87, width 56.5, height 63.5;
• roof length (cm): outside 93.5, inside 81;
• bottom thickness 3.5 cm;
• lower notch - 1.2 * 14 cm;
• upper notch - diameter 2.5 cm.

Instructions for making a hive for 24 frames

1. From the prepared material, cut out the details according to the drawings.

Accurately observe the dimensions so that the construction of the evidence for bees with your own hands is even and without large gaps.

Instructions for making a beehive lounger

1. Collect the bottom. Connect the two slats and the flooring with soil and nails.
2. Connect the side walls and attach to the bottom. Make a ledge for the bars 2 cm.
3. On the front and back walls, make grooves for the frames. Size 1.8 * 1.1 cm.
4. Cut through the holes from the bottom.
5. Attach a valve and a landing board.
6. Make a roof. Fasten the boards with spike nails.
7. Attach hinges to the roof for opening.
8. Cover the roof with tin.
9. On the back side of the roof, make a ventilation hole 20 * 0.03 cm.
10. On the front wall drill a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm.
11. Cover them with netting.
12. To the bottom of strong legs.
13. Proliferate and paint.
14. Attach handles to make it easy to carry.

Should be painted white. This color is remembered better by bees. White color repels the sun's rays.

How to make evidence bed for 20 and 16 frames

It is made according to the same principle with a difference in size.

Multi-hull bessaltsevy beehive: dimensions and drawings.

Over the years, this hive has not lost its popularity in use. The convenient design allows them to be used everywhere. And yes, it is easy to make.

In order to properly build a hive, you need to know what the structure consists of:

1. Lid.
2. Roof or ceiling.
3. The shops.
4. Corps.
5. Stand.
6. Framework.
7. Dividing grid.

The box looks like a box. Its inside size (cm): 37.5 wide; length 45; height 24.

It includes 10 - 12 frames measuring 43.5 * 23 cm.

Such sizes are more suitable for regions with a warm climate, and for the Russian climate, the width is made half a centimeter larger.

Reducing the size leads to inconvenience in working with frames. They are impossible to get when they are heavily propolised or swollen from moisture. Therefore, some increase the width of the case to 38 cm.

For the manufacture of cases, you need to take carefully dried boards. They should dry out within a year. When cutting out parts, the boards should be with a small margin (3-5 mm). The stock is left for further fitting parts. For trimming, it is recommended to leave an overlap of 1 cm.

On the front and back parts of the case, make folds to put frames on them. Size 1.1 and 1.7 cm. This depth allows you to freely place the upper case.

On the side walls you need to attach handles or small recesses.

A hole of 25 mm is drilled from the end of the hive under the roof for ventilation of the house.

Boxes with frames are tightly connected to each other. In this case, folds are not used. Such a constructive solution is more convenient in operation and simple in construction.

In cases with the use of folds, during transportation or movement, the bees most often clog in the lower part and hide in the folded recesses, subsequently dying. Most often, the uterus dies in them and beekeepers abandoned such hives in favor of a non-folded design.

A plate 2 cm thick is taken for the manufacture of the roof. A shield is knocked out of it, which is covered with galvanized tin.

The bottom is better to make removable, double-sided.

• three bars 57 * 6.5 * 3.5 cm - side;
• one 44.5*6.5*3. cm installed at the back.

Make grooves in them. Width 3.5 and depth 1 cm. Assemble a p-shaped structure. The grooves are designed to install a floor plate.

It is necessary to provide a protrusion of the front by 50 mm. It serves as a landing board.

Roof lining (ceiling) - a solid shield assembled from dies, 52 * 44 cm in size. Around it is a rim made of rails. Their width is 3.5 cm and thickness is 1.5 cm. A hole is made in the center. It is necessary for ventilation between the buildings or a feeder is placed on it.

The liner is placed on the body with a smooth side without a rim which allows the bees to move freely. It can also serve as a dividing grid, in which case a mesh is stuffed onto the hole.

Stand. It is made from bars according to the size of the bottom. A wide die is nailed in the front part at an angle of 45 °. This will be the landing board.

A recess 2.5 * 9 cm in size is cut out in the side bars. They are designed for convenience when you need to raise the hive or secure it when moving.

To increase the life of the bars, impregnate them with liquid bitumen. Dissolve it with gasoline. This procedure will make the tree waterproof.

Dividing grid dimensions. Designed to isolate the temporary isolation of the uterus. To separate the body with brood from honey.

The size of the grille must match the size of the inner case. She is put on bars. Made from wire mesh.

Frame sizes. Case and store frames, you can also do it yourself. They must match the drawings.

Drawings of multi-hull hives.

Frames in the hive: dimensions and description of how to do it yourself

Frames are an important part in hives and most of the work is done with them. From constant use, they become unusable and need to be added. Therefore, the beekeeper should always have a large supply. To save money, it is better to make them yourself than to constantly buy them.

For the manufacture of frames, we will use the following tools:

• hammer;
• pliers;
• awl;
• shoe nails;
• coil of thin wire.

For manufacturing, use natural materials. It is better if these are boards dried during the year. To make a frame, you need to know what parts it consists of:

Upper bar.
Grooved or uniform.

Bottom bar.
Plain, grooved or with a through cut.
Side bars.

They have holes for pulling the wire under the foundation.

The dimensions of the frames depend on the design of your hive. The standard sizes are:

• the width of the top and side boards is 2.5 cm;
• the height of the upper bar is 2 cm;
• bottom width 1.5 - 2.5 cm;
• height 1 cm;
• external dimensions vary depending on the design of the hive, but usually 43.5 * 30 cm.

After we have chosen the material and decided on the dimensions, we proceed to the direct manufacture of the frame.

1. From dry boards, cut out the details according to the size of the drawing.
2. Using shoe nails, connect all the details.
3. Drill 4 holes on the side rails and two double holes for attaching the wire. The distances between the holes must be equal.
4. Stretch the wire. Start at the top hole and snake through it. Make sure that the wire does not cross anywhere. Fasten it securely so that heavy honeycombs do not accidentally break. You should end up with 4 lines.

Foundation is fixed on the frames prepared in this way.

Now you know how to make do-it-yourself beehives for bees with drawings. Using the drawings and dimensions, you can easily build it yourself, thereby saving the budget and providing the bees with comfortable living conditions.

The honey worker bee is perhaps the basis of any family of insects. They are able to collect honey weighing up to 450 kilograms per season, which means providing food for the family. These are female individuals that are characterized by an underdeveloped reproductive system and cannot produce offspring. They do not mate with drones and are exclusively engaged in hive work. But unlike queens, they have some features of organs, for example, a longer proboscis, more developed glands and pollen baskets on legs.

The body length of one working individual is about 12 mm, and the weight is not more than 85 mg. In order to have 1 kilogram of bees, it is necessary to collect about 12 thousand individuals.

So, the development of the working woman depends on where the eggs were laid. If they are in the queen cells, then the uterus will hatch, if in the cells, then the working individual. And it's all about the different amounts of food. The development cycle of a honey bee implies the presence of three stages: egg, larva, pupa. When the embryo appears in the egg, the stage of embryonic development begins, from larva to adult - postembryonic.

In the embryonic, when the spermatozoon enters the egg, a nucleus is formed, which is then attached to the cell when it is removed by the uterus. Around the third day, the egg bursts and a worm larva emerges. This is facilitated by the first supply of food by nurse bees. The first portion is given 2 or even 4 times the weight of the larva itself. On the sixth day of the life of the worm, the nurses give the last portion of food and close the cell with a wax cap.

Now comes a very important cycle of development - the straightening of the larva. At this moment, the first bowel movement occurs, and the worm begins to spin a cocoon. Approximately 24 hours after sealing the cell, a ready-made cocoon is already visible there. After that, 4 hours the larva is at rest and proceeds to molt. She throws off everything superfluous from herself and takes on the appearance, size and weight of an almost adult individual - a chrysalis.

The chrysalis already has the embryos of future pairs of wings, legs and stinger. Her head grows, her skin darkens, wings grow. It is at this stage of the bee development cycle that almost all internal organs are formed. The last molt signals that the larva will leave the cell. This is the birthday of a new working honey worker and the completion of her development cycle.

In the first 2-3 weeks of life, worker bees do not leave the hive and work inside the house. They clean the comb cells, warm the brood, feed the larvae. Then their duties include the construction of honeycombs, the production of honey, and the protection of the nest. This is such a complex biology of the bee colony.

The structure of an adult

The outside of the bee has a hard skin covering called the skeleton. It includes three layers: cuticle or outer, hypodermis or inner, basement membrane. The outer layer consists of chitin, which protects the body of the bee from overheating and cold, as well as the internal organs from shock and damage. The entire body of the insect is covered with small hairs, which also serve as an organ of touch. On the inside of the skeleton there are muscles that provide the movement of the insect.

Within the hypodermis, there are three kinds of cells, namely, chitinous cells that secrete chitin, hypodermal glands that form salivary, wax, and poison glands, and hypodermal sensory cells. The latter play the role of nerve cells and have a connection with the cuticle and hairs.

Each insect has three pairs of legs, two pairs of wings and five eyes. A couple of the largest are on the side of the head and three more on the top of the head itself.

External structure

Outwardly, all the bees in the family are almost the same and differ only in the development of individual organs and body parts. A characteristic feature is the structure, or rather the division of the body. So, a bee consists of an abdomen, a sedentary thoracic region and a head. The head of the working specimen, like that of the uterus, is slightly elongated at the bottom and is connected to the thorax by a membrane neck. On the head there is an upper lip, upper jaws, three simple eyes of a bee and two faceted, a pair of antennae on the sides.

The structure of the head of a bee: 1 - upper jaws; 2 - cheeks; 3 - antennae; 4- compound eyes; 5 - simple eyes; 6 - crown; 7 - forehead; 8 - clypeus; 9 - upper lip.

The eyes of the worker bee are slightly wider than those of the drone. The antennae have organs of touch and smell. At the bottom of the head there is a proboscis, which consists of the lower jaws and lower lip. The length of the proboscis of different bees is different and can range from 5.7 to 7.25 mm.

The middle part of the body of the bee is represented by the thoracic region, which consists mainly of muscles that set the body and legs in motion. The chest consists of three rings and one joint. Attached to the rings are one pair of legs, as well as the wings of a bee. The insect has 4 wings. They have a membranous structure and can make up to 250 strokes in one second.

The largest part of the body, both in size and weight, is the abdomen. Here are the internal organs. It is connected to the thoracic region by a special stalk and consists of 10 rings. Each segment of the abdomen is movable and interconnected by membranes, which allows it to increase and decrease in volume. The entire surface of the abdomen is covered with dark hairs, and the last segment has wax mirrors and a sting.

The legs of the worker bee differ from all other individuals in the nest in that the third pair has special depressions with large hairs. They are called baskets and serve to collect skirts. On the other pair there are special spurs with which the insect removes pollen balls into the cells of the honeycombs.

Internal structure

The internal structure of a bee depends entirely on its nutrition and activities. Since all working individuals process the nectar of flowers into honey, their entire internal organ system is adapted for this. The basis of their nutrition is precisely honey and pollen. The entire digestive system is associated with the activity of the glands and consists of: anterior, posterior and middle sections. The anterior includes the mouth, pharynx, esophagus, honey goiter.

Proboscis (a) and antennae (b) of a worker bee: 1 - spoon; 2 - tongue; 3 - salivary canal of the tongue; 4 - lower labial palps; 5 - pagans; 6 - lower lobe of the lower jaw; 7 - maxillary palps; 8 - stem; 9 - chin; 10 - subchin; 11 - bridle.

12 - flagellum (consists of 10 segments); 13 - pedicillary segment; 14 - scape.

The stomach of a bee is the middle intestine. Here the food is digested and absorbed by the tissues of the body. The walls of the intestine are muscular and folded, which ensures the movement of food. Next comes the large and small intestines, where water is absorbed and digestive waste is stored. The volume of the large intestine can reach up to 45 mg, which allows the bee to keep its contents inside for a long time.

The development of microbes in the feces inside the body of the bee is prevented by a special acidic environment, which is created during the oxidation of glucose. Glands are also an important part of the internal structure of the insect. For example, the head thoracic or salivary ones are involved in the digestion of food, the subpharyngeal ones turn nectar into honey, the maxillary ones are designed to feed the larvae. You can see in more detail how the internal and external structure of a bee looks in the photo. Detailed diagrams show the entire body of the insect, as well as pairs of legs and wings.

Photo gallery

Video " Zoology: Hymenoptera - bees»

In this video, you will see the structure of a bee, as well as hear useful information about their digestive system and nectar processing.

The bee, like all insects, does not have a body skeleton. Its role is played by a complex skin, which includes chitin.

The body consists of three parts: head, thorax and abdomen. On the head are two convex compound eyes, which in turn consist of several thousand eyes, and three simple eyes located on the crown.

The organs of touch and smell are located on the segmented antennae, which are located in the upper part of the head. The mouth has a lower and upper lip, jaws and proboscis. With their jaws, bees can capture other insects, pull out various crumbs from the hive, and gnaw through the lids of honeycombs. The proboscis is designed to feed the bee, suck nectar and perform feeding functions.

The length of the proboscis is of no small importance. So, the Mountain Caucasian - a bee has a proboscis up to 7 mm long, while ours, Central Russian, is only 6.2-6.4 mm. Therefore, a southern woman, for example, is able to take nectar even in red clover flowers, while our northern ones cannot.

The head of the bee freely rotates in different directions, almost 180 °. This allows her to easily gnaw out cocoons in the narrow cells of the comb and perform all kinds of work both in flowers and in the hive.

On the breast, consisting of four rings, segments, legs and wings are attached. Bees have two pairs of wings and six segmented legs. In the abdomen are the heart, intestines, respiratory organs, honey goiter, bowel organs and sting. Due to the complex ring device, the abdomen has extreme mobility and the ability to increase and decrease its size to a significant extent.

In the abdomen there are wax-producing mirrors, from which wax is released, but only in the summer. Queens and drones do not have such mirrors.

The legs of bees have a complex structure and consist of a trochanter, thigh, lower leg and paw with claws. Through the swivel, the legs are attached to the breast and - make it possible to move in different directions.

On a rough surface, the bees are held by claws, and on a smooth surface by suction pads.

The strength in the muscles of the legs allows them to support a weight of 10-20 times the weight of the bee. This is clearly seen when the bees hang in clusters. With their legs, bees are able to clean the antennae, hairs covering the body, carry pollen folded in the form of a ball in a special basket located on the back leg.
Bees have two wings on each side. The wings are transparent and rigid. Rigidity is given to them by longitudinal and transverse veins. When flying, the wings on both sides fold and form a solid plate.

Hooks and folds help keep them closed. The hooks are located on the back of the front fenders, and the folds are on the front of the rear fenders.

When lifting, lowering and flying, the bee is able to change the position of the wings over a wide range.

The average flight speed of a bee is 60-65 km / h, but when a bee flies loaded with nectar or pollen, its flight can be twice as slow. Depending on the need, especially when a swarm takes off, bees can cover a distance of up to 20 or more kilometers.

During a normal flight to collect pollen and nectar, this distance usually does not exceed 3-5 km. Science has proven that the productive flight of a bee (that is, when a bee, having taken nectar in a flower, brought it entirely to the hive, did not spend anything on its food), usually does not exceed 2 km.

A sting is located in the back of the abdomen. It consists of two stilettos that move back and forth along the sled. In the normal state, the sting is retracted into the abdomen.

If you intend to sting someone, the sting on the sled moves outward, I am a bee, by bending the abdomen, pierces the sting into the skin of warm-blooded. Due to the fact that the stylets end in notches similar to those of harpoons, the bee is not able to pull them out of the skin. As a result, during takeoff, along with the sting, part of the internal organs comes off, so the bee that stings a person or animal dies.

When stinging their own kind, i.e. insects, the sting harpoons break through the chitinous shell of the insect's body, making a torn hole in it, from which the stiletto harpoons come out freely and the bee does not die.

The sting remaining in the skin of warm-blooded animals continues impulsively to penetrate into the skin due to the muscles located on the sting itself. And, if you do not touch it, it will almost completely disappear under the skin within a few minutes, and then the tumor in this place will be much larger than with its immediate removal.

The bee venom is stored in a special tank, where it comes from the poisonous glands and then through the stylets into the wound. Bee venom is widely used in medicine. A lot of specialized literature has been written and published about this.

For the normal life of bees, like other insects and animals, food, proteins, fats, carbohydrates, and mineral salts are needed.

Protein food for bees is obtained from plant pollen. It is necessary for the growth and development of the larvae, as well as for the work of the wax secretory glands of the bee.

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Any beekeeper can buy not only beekeeping equipment, but also a beehive. One has only to turn to a specialized store, as different structures appear before your eyes. Now the industry produces houses for bees.

If there is no desire to spend money, then you can make a hive yourself.

Purpose

The hives are for bees. With their help, the best conditions are created for insects. They can live in peace in them. The house in which insects live should serve as protection from the weather. It must be warm. If the hive is warm, then the insects will not expend extra energy when heating it. They will be able to maintain the temperature they need, while the feed reserves will be spent less. Do not forget about dryness. If in the summer time the bees find dampness in their house, they will simply leave it. Bees, in the summer, do not put up with dampness. If dampness is observed in winter, then the bees may die. A whole family can die from dampness.

This species of individuals has its own biological characteristics. During the creation of the hive, they must be taken into account. A house for bees must be created in suitable sizes. A distance of 7.5 mm is made between the walls. The same distance must be adhered to when creating planks from the sides. Between each cell 12.5 mm. Between the magazine inserts and the upper bars of the frames - 8 mm.

Remember, you need to put as many frames in the hive as you need to create brood and produce honey. But with this in mind, it should be convenient to fold and become smaller. This factor will be taken into account during the creation of the winter cube.

The beekeeper should not run into difficulties while handling the structure. The hives should be easy to disassemble or each of their components should be freely removed.

Interchangeability is an important factor. This is because objects of the same size can be placed from one hive into another. Simply put, everything should be interchangeable. Individual parts should not weigh much, so the beekeeper can easily move them without much effort.

An important condition is the durability of the building and its low cost. Approximately 35% of all expenses are spent on the building. With timely repairs, the bee house can last longer. If you do not apply putty when cracks appear, then later, when heated, they will turn into cracks, and moisture will enter the building.

The hive is of different types. There is a type of "B-Box", "Dadan-Blatt", "Langstroth-Ruth". Let's consider each type separately.

"B-Box"

They are made of lightweight but warm material. It is easier for a beekeeper to work with him. Bees tolerate winter well, while they consume less food and recover faster.

The material does not rot, does not pass or absorb moisture, so it does not age. Insects are well received.

Requirements

Such a house for insects is made of wood, but before starting work, it must be dried. The moisture content of wood should not reach 15%. This type of hive can be made from pine, fir, aspen or linden. But if you take coniferous wood, then it should not contain resin. Wood may contain knots, most importantly, non-through. Holes, of course, can be sealed with a dense cork, but still it is not advisable to do this.

Several boards are used to make the bottom and body, while the liner and magazine extension are made from solid boards. All parts are fastened with nails, screws or waterproof glue. Remember, no gaps should form during assembly. When creating a hive, the boards should lie with the core out.

When the building is ready, it is treated with drying oil and allowed to dry. Then paint is taken, and the hive is covered with it in two layers. Durability depends entirely on proper and good processing. Houses for bees are best painted in blue, yellow or white. These colors are excellent.

The metal is used to cover the roof of the house. Of course, you can use tarpaulin linoleum, which will not melt or burst. After installing the roof on the house, its ends are sealed.

Device

Let's see how this type of house for bees works. The house has a body, which can have one or two compartments. A magazine extension that helps expand the nest. The bottom located at the bottom of the case. The house has a liner that serves as additional insulation. The ceiling helps keep the heat in the house. A roof covering the house from above and protecting it from the weather. The insert board helps the beekeeper separate families that are in the same house.

In order for the bees to build combs and make honey, a nesting frame is required. For its manufacture, two beams are required, the lower and upper, which will have hangers, and two side strips of the same size. The magazine frame will serve as an extension. The magazine frame is also needed to make honey. If the beekeeper wants to get comb honey, he must put sectional frames on the bees.

Insects in the house should have a feeder. It is designed to feed insects in spring and autumn. The feeder can be inserted inside the hive or it is placed on top.

"Dadan-Blatta"

This type is single-case and contains 12 frames. This type of house is arranged in almost the same way as the B-Box. These houses are made both with a blind bottom and with a detachable one.

In the presence of a detachable bottom, in the house for bees, a fine mesh and a stretcher are additionally placed. When creating a blank bottom, only a subframe will be required. The hive has two entrances and slots for ventilation. Ventilation slots are covered with metal mesh. It protects the house from the penetration of other insects.

The twelve-frame hive has disadvantages:

• small nest volume;
• no subframe space at all;
• frame height is not enough;
• they are mainly made with an integral bottom.

With a lack of frame height, in winter the cube of bees is pressed to the bottom of the house. It is at the bottom that moisture accumulates, which settles on the frames with food, and the bees. Insects find themselves in a stream of cold air that washes them. The cube begins to overcool.

When the main bribe has already passed, the insects begin to build up their strength. At this moment, all their combs are occupied with brood. Therefore, there is no honey in the right place. The bees will place it on the edge of the frame. In order for insects to overwinter normally, they have to arrange late top dressing. Insects, of course, carry honey from the edge to the center on their own, but all the actions that they perform in winter affect their condition.

Due to the tightness, to the honey flow, insects cannot increase their offspring to the required amount. They also cannot build the number of frames they need. Under such conditions, the bees begin to swarm. To prevent swarming, store-bought half-frames are used, or simply printed brood is taken from the bees.

"Langstroth-Ruth"

The hive has four or more bodies that can be interchanged. In another way, it is called multi-case. This species has the largest area for honeycombs - 672 dm. When using this hive, you have to resort to industrial technology. In this case, the work is not concentrated on a separate frame, but immediately on the whole body.

If you look at how the hive is used in practice, you can see that it is equipped with many cases that constantly need to be swapped. Only a physically strong person can do such work.

Advantages of a multi-hull hive:

• in spring, the bee family develops faster;
• insects build wax frames faster;
• it will not be difficult to change the volume of the nest;
• an insect, during wintering, has a free place below, and a supply of food at the top.

This multi-unit house has disadvantages:

• hull work is hard;
• there is no good ventilation;
• there is no free space in the nest, so during the inspection you have to pull out a large number of frames;
• if you support more than one family, difficulties arise;
• some difficulties arise even at the moment when the family begins to swarm.

Duplex houses

This view is a modified twelve-frame house that has store extensions. It differs from the Dadan-Blatt hive in that it does not have extensions, but a second body. The first and second buildings are made in the same way.

This type of house for bees is widespread, in the presence of a large honey flow. These houses have one drawback, to work with them, maybe a physically strong person.

When choosing a hive, it is worth considering everything. When choosing from the three types presented, it is better to give preference to the B-Box house. This type is considered more convenient and practical.