How to quickly build a beautiful cinder block house. Turnkey construction of houses from cinder blocks

Interest in the construction of private and low-rise houses from cinder blocks exists constantly. This naturally follows from the attractive properties of the material itself. Cinder blocks are made on the basis of production waste associated with the combustion of a significant amount of solid fuel. That is, their main component is practically free raw materials, which can significantly reduce the cost of building wall fences.

The cinder block can be used not only in the aboveground part of the building, but also for the construction of basement load-bearing walls, as it is not susceptible to dampness and has good bearing capacity, with proper waterproofing, its long and reliable service is ensured. Cinder block is a relatively light material, which makes it possible not only to reduce the cost of mechanization during construction, but also to reduce the thickness of the walls, compared to the brick version.

cinder block house project

Therefore, cinder block house projects occupy their own niche in the proposal from design organizations and individual documentation developers.

Taking into account the regional specifics of construction from cinder blocks, developed mainly in the places of production of this building material , projects of houses from cinder blocks can be submitted free of charge by construction organizations or suppliers of materials interested in choosing this design solution by the developer.

The cinder block does not have stable characteristics in terms of thermal conductivity, strength, water permeability, which significantly limits the sales market, since transportation over long distances significantly increases the price of the material, which ceases to correspond to its consumer properties.

However, in territories where there is a tradition and experience in the construction of this material, it is in steady demand and is used not only in private construction, but also for the construction of commercial, warehouse, administrative buildings focused on the minimum cost of construction.


The project of a country house from cinder blocks

For the construction of cinder blocks, a limitation on the number of storeys of the building is characteristic. The support of floor panels on a load-bearing wall made of this material is not welcome, due to the heterogeneity of its composition. Therefore, projects of one-story houses made of cinder blocks are the most common and in demand by the customer.

Despite the name, today cinder blocks can be made not only from volcanic and blast-furnace slag, but from ash, expanded clay, sand, brick waste, shell rock and even sawdust.


An example of a cinder block house

Due to this, the material is very common and easily accessible. Of course, many people are attracted to this. And they often have a question - is it possible to build a house from a cinder block with your own hands? It's really possible. But such a complex and responsible work should be approached very seriously, weighing all the pros and cons, making certain calculations.

First, choose the right material. For example, sawdust is distinguished by its lower weight, as well as high thermal insulation. But they can be prone to decay, and their strength is not too high. It is impossible to build a two-story house from such material. Cinder blocks made from crushed stone screenings or brick scrap have other properties. They are able to withstand severe mechanical stress, but their thermal conductivity is higher, and their weight is much greater.


Cinder block making machine

When the optimal filler is selected and stocked in sufficient quantities, you can get to work. First you need to knead the concrete solution. The selected filler is introduced into it. The resulting mixture is poured into molds, after which the mixture is pressed. Wet blocks are removed from the matrices and dried in natural conditions (in a dry and warm place). Concrete usually dries and gains sufficient hardness in one month.

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After this time, you get high-quality material from which you can build the house you have long dreamed of.

Pros and cons of cinder blocks

Of course, before you start building a cinder block house, you should carefully study both the positive qualities of the material and the negative ones. Only in this case you can be sure that you will build a house that will never disappoint you.

Cinder block advantages:

But it should be said about the cons:


Video about the manufacture of cinder blocks at home.

Drafting a project

Before you start building a house and even procure material, it is necessary on which construction will be carried out. It is better to entrust the work to specialists, but if you are very difficult in the means, you can try to do the work yourself.


An example of a successful cinder block house project with an attic

The project should reflect such data as the size of the house, the number of rooms, the thickness of the bearing walls, the number and size of windows and doors, and much more. On the one hand, the presence of such a project will limit you in the changes that you want to make to the layout of the house during construction, which happens very often, seriously complicating the work and increasing the time.


The project of a two-story house from cinder blocks

How much material is needed

One of the questions that people often have when they decide to build their own house concerns the amount of materials. The question is very serious.

Fortunately, if you have a project, it will not be difficult to carry out the necessary calculations.
First, decide which cinder blocks you will use. On sale you can see both molds for cinder blocks and finished material, which varies significantly in size. Of course, it depends on how many cinder blocks you will need to build a house.

The next step is to find out from the experts what the thickness of the walls should be in order to effectively retain heat even on the coldest days of the year. This will have to be taken into account in further calculations.
After that, measure the volume of the walls. Knowing the length, width and thickness of each wall, this will not be difficult at all.

First of all, measure the perimeter of the future house (add the length of all the walls). Multiply the resulting value by the height. Now you know the total area of ​​the walls.

Calculate how much area the window and door openings will have. Subtract the resulting number from the total area of ​​the walls. Memorize or write down the result.

When you start construction, you want everything to be done as quickly as possible, cheaper and more reliable. All these factors can be satisfied by a house built from cinder block with your own hands. This building material can be made independently. We will consider both the technology of its production and the construction process from marking to roof installation.

Advantages and disadvantages

At some point in time, the cinder block became very popular. This is explained by the fact that the waste material that remained after the smelting of the metal had to be used somewhere. It was decided to use it as a filler for building components. And so this artificial stone appeared. But then he was not distinguished by the best qualities, because from an environmental point of view, he had certain shortcomings. It had to be kept on the street for about a year and only after that put into work. Today the situation is a little different and it seems to be the most popular material for the construction of low buildings. Its strengths are:

  • Long service life. With the right approach, the stone will last about 100 years.
  • Good thermal insulation. Thanks to the manufacturing method with air chambers, the material perfectly retains heat.
  • High build speed. Due to the large dimensions, the walls can be driven out much faster than from ordinary bricks.
  • Resistant to the development of fungus and mold.
  • The possibility of an individual approach to the size.
  • The material is unloved by rodents and other pests.
  • A house made of such material is easy to repair.

Disadvantages:

  • It absorbs moisture well, which leads to a loss of heat capacity.
  • Poor plaster adhesion to this building block.
  • The impossibility of erecting a building more than 2 floors.
  • The need for rapid construction of the roof. The fact is that the expelled walls cannot be left uncovered for a long time, because this will lead to their rapid destruction.
  • The importance of strict adherence to masonry technology.
  • The need for a high foundation.
  • It is important to carry out construction work in dry weather.
  • Poor tolerance of building shrinkage. In this case, a split is possible not at the seams, but along the blocks themselves.

If you decide to purchase cinder blocks, then there are a few nuances that you should pay attention to. Well, if it is possible to take measurements with a dosimeter. Thanks to this, you can determine how environmentally friendly the material is. Look at the conditions under which it was stored. It is important that this is not an open space where it is exposed to precipitation. It should not have chips or cracks. Using a tape measure, you need to check its dimensions. Parallel sides must match.

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. To successfully move in this direction, it will be necessary to acquire some equipment, as well as accurately maintain proportions. So, the first step is to design a vibrotamper. For this you will need:

  • sheet metal 3 mm thick;
  • pipe with a diameter of 75–80 mm;
  • Bulgarian;
  • welding machine;
  • roulette;
  • electric motor to create vibration.

The engine can be used from an old washing machine or from a grinder. Large power is not required. The main thing is to correctly place the weight, which will shift the center of gravity.

The sequence of work will be as follows:

  • Blanks are cut out of metal. Two of them are 200×400 mm, the other two are 200×200 mm.
  • They need to be welded together to make a small box.
  • Cut three pieces of pipe 170 mm each. The size is smaller along the length so that the thickness of the bottom wall is at least 30 mm.
  • Cuts are made along the end of the sleeves to a depth of 50 mm. One of the sides is given the appearance of a truncated cone.
  • From the other end, cuts are made to a depth of 50 mm. A strip of metal 400 mm long is placed in them. It connects all three elements together.
  • The ends of the pipes are closed with plugs.
  • This design is placed in a box and fixed to the walls.
  • A side is welded along the upper end of the container to make it more convenient to backfill and ram the solution.
  • Additionally, you can make a mechanism by which the box will rise up. To do this, you can use a profile square pipe. If there is no desire to complicate, then it is enough to weld two handles on the sides of the box.
  • An engine is attached to the large side. To do this, four bolts are welded to the wall so that their location coincides with the holes on the apparatus body. It is pressed with washers and nuts of a suitable diameter.
  • Additionally, a cover is made, which improves tamping. For it, you need a sheet of metal 195 × 395 mm. It is necessary to make holes in it for pipes (they should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the sleeves) and cut into two parts along. This must be done so that it calmly sinks and does not rest against the partition that secures the hollows. The parts are interconnected using brackets made of reinforcement. It is also necessary to make a depth limiter, which will exclude its immersion deeper than 5 cm.
  • In order to speed up the work, you can combine several of these containers with each other.
  • Two bolts are welded onto the motor shaft on both sides. This must be done symmetrically. In the future, in order to adjust the frequency and strength of vibrations, it will be enough to screw the required number of nuts.
  • The final touch will be a thorough polishing and painting. This is necessary so that subsequently the solution lags better.

Today on sale there are many options for ready-made machines. If you do not want to waste time and energy, then you can simply buy or rent it.

The key to durable and resistant to various influences blocks is a properly prepared solution. If a compactor is used, it must be sufficiently dry. If it is incorrect to calculate the proportions of water, then after raising the container, it will simply disintegrate. As a filler, you can use ash from burnt coal, broken bricks, small gravel, slag, etc. To give additional resistance to moisture, plasticizers are used. The first mix will look like this:

  • 9:1 ​​- cement and slag, which is well sifted so that there are no extra inclusions;
  • water should be about half of the cement.

Second cooking method:

  • 4:4:1 - industrial granulated slag, crushed stone of small fractions, cement;
  • water is the same ratio as for the first option.

The best consistency can be roughly determined as follows: you need to take the finished solution and squeeze it in your hand. It must keep its shape. If you then throw it on the ground, it should spread. After squeezing it again, it should hold its shape again.

The best place to work would be outdoors. Under such conditions, the mortar will dry and set faster, which will increase productivity. It is desirable that the place is flat. This may be a concrete path or a lining made of sheet metal, boards knocked into shields, etc. The block preparation process will be as follows:

  • The unit is installed in the place from which the calculation will begin.
  • The prepared mixture is poured inside. Its quantity must be greater than the actual capacity.
  • The vibrator motor is turned on for a few seconds. Part of the solution sits down, so you need to add more.
  • The vibrator starts again for a few seconds. Finishing filling is done and the upper end is closed with a lid.
  • Sealing is in progress. If the lid has reached the limiters, then you can raise the container.
  • Full setting takes a period of 4 to 9 days.
  • Finished products can be stored indoors. You need to move them there after a day of drying on the street. If there is a plasticizer in the composition, then after 6 hours.
  • For greater convenience, they can be stacked on top of each other.
  • They will be ready for the construction process in 1-2 months.

Often, partitions are laid out from blocks that are smaller in size. For their manufacture, it will be necessary to make a mold according to a similar principle, as described above, but its dimensions will be 120 × 400 × 200 mm. It is better to use rectangular inserts as void formers. They should be of such dimensions that the walls are at least 3 cm.

Calculation of the number of blocks

Projects must be approached rationally. It makes no sense to be overly economical, because this will affect the quality of the future structure. There is also no reason for being extravagant. This is especially true for the number of blocks. Calculations should begin with the fact that to determine the thickness of the wall. This size is determined by several factors, such as climatic conditions and soil conditions. If the temperature drops too low during the winter period, then it may be necessary to make a wall of 40-60 cm. In other areas, 20 cm will be enough, which will also be insulated with foam or foam. Laying can be done in several ways:

  • Half a stone. This does not mean that the block will need to be cut into two parts. This means that it lies along. That is, in the described case, this is a thickness of 20 cm.
  • In a whole stone. This is the one that lies across, while the wall is 40 cm.
  • One and a half stones. By simple addition, we find out that this is 60 cm.
  • In two stones - 80 cm.

Suppose that a project of a future house with dimensions of 10 × 12 m was chosen, one-story with a wall height of 3 m. The first step is to calculate the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. To do this, multiply the length by the width. 3 × 10 \u003d 30 m 2, 12 × 3 \u003d 36 m 2, now we double these results and add them up, because there are two identical planes. 30×2+36×2=132 m2. So the end result is 132 m 2. We determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone block - 0.2 × 0.4 \u003d 0.08 m 2. Divide the total area of ​​the walls by the area of ​​the block - 132:0.08=1650. But this figure is valid if the wall is planned in one stone. If in two, then the end result will be 3300 blocks.

These calculations deliberately do not take into account the openings that will be made for windows and doors. This is done in order to have a small margin. While working with the material, there may be rejection, and our surplus compensates for it.

The calculation of the amount of stone for partition walls is carried out in the same way. In fact, the final figure will be the sum of the blocks for the main walls and internal ones.

Foundation laying

As mentioned above, this type of design requires a high . In addition, it must be very durable so that in no case cracks begin to form, which will certainly pass through the entire wall. The work will be carried out in the following order:

  • The area chosen for construction is carefully inspected. It is better to find out in advance in which part of the site the groundwater is at a lower level. She's the one who fits.
  • Everything that clutters it is cleaned up, the grass is mowed to the lowest possible level. This is necessary to assess the overall slope and markup.
  • According to the drawing, on the ground landmarks are transferred according to the size of the future building.

  • One peg is driven into each corner.
  • The correct dimensions are checked. In addition to length and width, diagonals are also measured - they must match so that the shape is correct, and not trapezoidal (if this is not provided for by the project).
  • Holders for the reference line are made. This will require 16 wooden blocks of arbitrary size, but at least 90-100 cm long. You will need 8 more small boards. Their length should be 10–15 cm more than the width of the foundation. From the boards a crossbar is made for two bars. You should get a design in the shape of the letter P.
  • Two self-tapping screws are screwed on each crossbar. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foundation.
  • All elements must be hammered into the ground. It is important to do this at such a level that the screws are at a height of 70 cm above the surface. The order of the supports is two for each corner so that they are opposite each other in pairs.
  • A fishing line or twine is stretched between the elements. It is more convenient to use a fishing line that has a bright color. It is not lost against the background of surrounding objects.
  • At this stage, it is once again necessary to check the diagonals between the corners that the stretched thread formed.
  • A trench is being dug. Its depth should be 50 cm below the freezing of the soil.
  • Sand is poured to a height of 25 cm. It is leveled and rammed well. After that, you need to wet it with water and let it dry. If necessary, add a level.
  • Another 25 cm is made of crushed stone. This layer is also well compacted. Ramming is best done with a special electric or gasoline tool.

  • Next, a metal grill is made. For the foundation of the planned height, two or three elements will be required. To work, you need ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10 – 12 mm. It is better to assemble the structure on the surface. Its dimensions should be such that it is immersed in concrete 5 cm on each side. That is, the total length and height must be at least 10 cm less than the length and height of the foundation. Several rods are laid out for a total length. The distance between the horizontal components should not exceed 30 cm. If there are no strips of the required length, then you can get from several. In this case, the binding between them should be at least 1 m. Staples are made from smaller rods. Their height should be equal to the size of the planned crate, and the bent elements should be the width of the structure. They are attached to the lined elements every 30-40 cm. Instead of staples, you can make ordinary vertical jumpers. They are fixed to each other with a knitting wire. From above, the same number of longitudinal rods are attached to the inner side as from below.
  • Typically, the height of one such structure is 40–50 cm.
  • Stands are laid out at the bottom of the pit, which will allow the concrete to close the reinforced base from below. For these purposes, bricks or other homogeneous elements can be used. The minimum height is 5 cm.
  • Formwork is made from edged boards knocked into shields, plywood or other durable material. It must be strong enough to withstand the pressure that the concrete will exert. Be sure to install the jibs, which will be stops from the outside. The distance between the shields must be the same so that the foundation is obtained without sagging.
  • After the preparatory work, you need to prepare a solution for pouring. In advance, you need to make sure that there is an assistant and a productive concrete mixer, you can use several. This is very important, because it is necessary to provide a good volume. Thanks to this, the design will turn out to be monolithic, and not puff, which will reduce strength. The composition of the mixture will be 3:1:3 - crushed stone, Portland cement, sand. For such purposes, Portland cement is perfect. The fact is that it contains additives of calcium silicate and gypsum. Thanks to this, a quick setting occurs and strength is ensured. Be sure to add a plasticizer, thus the fluidity and filling of voids will be improved, frost resistance will increase, as well as moisture resistance.

  • Periodically, during pouring, it is necessary to treat with a vibrator. So the concrete is better compacted and the structure will subsequently gain maximum strength.
  • During pouring, it is also necessary to try to distribute all the concrete in level. Subsequently, this will help to quickly cope with the pasture of the walls.
  • If the weather is hot enough, then it is necessary to moisten the surface with plenty of water, it would also be good to cover the foundation with a building film or pieces of roofing material.
  • With a high curing rate, the formwork can be removed after a week.
  • It is better to continue further work after a month. It is this period that is necessary for the cement-sand mixture to gain all its strength.

If you decide not to fill in such a high foundation, as described earlier, then you need to take care of the construction of the base. This is a continuation of the foundation, which protrudes above the surface of the earth. It is important to remember that before you start laying it, it is necessary to provide for waterproofing. To do this, a roofing material or bikrost is laid on the foundation. The height of such a structure should reach 70 cm or more. Then it fits again waterproofing layer and only after that the construction of walls begins.

When building walls, the main task is to make them even, without protrusions. The first step on the way to such a result is to determine the highest corner of the foundation. The fact is that during pouring it is difficult to deduce the ideal value. This measurement is made using a water level. In advance, you need to make sure that its length is enough for the length of the foundation.

  • An arbitrary angle is selected. One flask of the device is installed on it. The other part moves to different ends. Thanks to the difference in the position of the water, you can determine where the highest point is. Laying and leveling should start from here. It is very important to do this, because if you start the construction from the lowest point, you will have to subsequently cut the stones. If this is done with the highest, it will simply be enough to make the seam a little larger.
  • Having set the starting point, you can do the same for the remaining corners. This will require the same hydraulic level. The task will be to place 4 more stones so that they coincide with the reference in all planes. Additionally, you can check the diagonals.

  • A fishing line or twine is stretched along the outer edge of the wall. It will help to make the wall flat in the horizontal plane. It is necessary to raise it to the height of one row and, after each new one, rearrange it to the same level. During operation, it is necessary to ensure that the landmark is not pressed or touched by anything, otherwise it will not be of any use.
  • To maintain the verticality of the wall, you can use several tools. For example, after laying each row, check the plane using the building level. An ordinary plumb line will also serve as a guide. If there is no desire to mess with such devices, then you can build stationary reference points. To do this, metal pipes are buried in the ground, which fit close to the wall. They are exposed in planes and fixed. Thanks to them, it will be possible to control the process.
  • The solution has good thermal conductivity, so there can be significant heat loss due to it. To lower this value, it will be enough to control its layer. It is better if it does not exceed 1.5 cm.

  • If you do not have much experience in masonry, then add a special plasticizer to the cement-sand mixture, which will slow down its setting. This will help to calmly expose each element without having to redo it later.
  • Do not try to close the cavities in the stone with a solution, this will only worsen its properties. If desired, they can be filled with loose insulation.
  • Every 3-5 rows it is necessary to insert a metal mesh. It will increase the rigidity of the entire structure.

During the laying of the last few rows, you must not forget to wall up the studs. It will be good if you can bend them and bandage them with the seam of one of the rows. They should protrude above the surface to a distance exceeding the height of the Mauerlat beam by 4 cm. The step can be kept at 1 m or less. Rolled wire can be used instead of studs. Another option would be to fill the armored belt with the installation of studs in it.

Roof

The installation of the rafter system and the laying of the flooring should be started as soon as possible after the end of the pasture of the walls. Before choosing the desired shape of the future roof, it is necessary to analyze the maximum amount of precipitation that can fall, what gusts of wind are. You also need to consider what buildings or trees are nearby. Usually all data can be obtained from the relevant services. This information will affect which angle will need to be observed.

If the area is famous for the presence of strong gusts of wind, then the slope of the roof must be maintained in the region of 15-20 °. Even with sufficiently strong snow drifts, the layer will not remain, it will simply inflate. In the case when the area is quiet, but there is a lot of precipitation, then the optimal solution would be a spread of 35‒40°. With such a slope, the snow will not be able to linger in large layers.

On private houses, a gable roof or all kinds of multi-pitched variations look great. We will consider an example of the construction of the first option. If the principle is well understood, then you can move on to more complex designs.

  • Installation begins with the installation of the base - Mauerlat. They can tie the longitudinal walls on which the rafters will rest. Or install it around the entire perimeter, which will facilitate the construction of the pediment if it is wooden, not brick. To do this, you need a bar with a section from 50 × 150 mm to 200 × 200 mm. It should be placed in the middle or no closer than 5 cm to the edge. A layer of waterproofing must be laid under it, which will prevent the accumulation of moisture and rotting of the wood. Holes are drilled at the locations of the studs. Boards are fixed with nuts and washers or knots when using wire.
  • At its core, the truss system is a constructor that includes a large number of details. In shape, it resembles the letter A. In this case, the beams act to break, that is, the force is applied in such a way that the walls are under constant stress. This option is not very good for a cinder block house, so it is advisable to use additional connecting elements. They are racks and beds.
  • The first step is to install the ceiling beams. After that, the entire area can be covered with a film so that rainwater does not get inside the building.
  • Next, the beds are laid on which the racks will rest. They should run parallel to the Mauerlat. The distance between them will depend on how the attic space will be used. You can make them from the same timber as the base.

  • Rafter legs are interconnected with nails or nail plates. In some cases, additional metal staples are used. If they need to be lengthened, then it is better to overlap, it should be about 1 m.
  • Rigels can be two or more. It is important to remember that the distance between them should be no more than 50 cm.
  • The trusses must be the same size to support the plane of the roof. You can collect them both on the building and below. In most cases, the second option is safer and more reliable.
  • Two finished elements rise up. They are installed at the ends of the roof and fixed with temporary struts.
  • Three strings are stretched between them. One goes along the upper corner, the other two - from the middle of each side. They will serve as guidelines for how the next trusses will be mounted. Instead of fishing line, you can use a ridge board. It is important to put it on temporary supports and check that it is level in the plane.
  • All other farms are installed. In order for them not to move, jumpers are mounted, which will then be removed. The step between the rafter legs must be observed such that it will facilitate the simple installation of the insulation.
  • The entire area from above is tightened with a hydrobarrier membrane.
  • What material should be used for the crate is usually indicated in the recommendations for the flooring that is planned to be used.
  • The last step is to insulate the roof. This is usually done with mineral wool. This is a very important stage, because it will reduce heat losses and reduce the cost of various types of fuel.

It is better to close the gables as soon as possible. This must be done so that the wind does not blow precipitation inward. So moisture will not accumulate and destroy the building material.

Interior and exterior decoration

It is advisable not to leave the walls bare for a long period. Their finishing can be carried out in parallel with roofing work. For the outside, the ideal solution would be insulation with foam. It is fastened with the help of special dowels-umbrellas. It's better to start from the bottom. First of all, a metal starting bar is mounted. In its role can be a profile for drywall. It needs to be leveled, which will simplify the task in the future. A hole is drilled through the insulation sheet using a perforator in the wall. Glue is applied to the back of the insulation; ordinary polyurethane foam with low expansion can act as its role. Each element should fit snugly against the previous one. During installation, it is advisable to check the evenness of the surface with a level. After that, the entire surface is covered with glue intended for this purpose. Together with its application, a reinforcing mesh is laid, which will prevent the appearance of dents from impacts. The final layer will be a decorative finish. It could be bark beetle or relief plaster.

house can sheathe with siding. In this case, for insulation, you can also use mineral wool. A product with a high density is suitable, for example, Styrofoam. First, the crate is mounted under the cladding. After that, a heater is inserted into the space between the beams. You can fix it to the wall in the same way as the foam.

As noted above, it will be almost impossible to use plaster for interior decoration. But this is not a problem, because you can sheathe the rooms with drywall. This will compensate for any irregularities, as well as apply the desired finish to it. It is important to take care of the vapor barrier so that moisture does not seep into the cinder block.

It will take a sufficient amount of time to complete all these works. But with good organization and planning, you can meet acceptable deadlines. It is always interesting to look at finished projects. Share your observations and suggestions in the comments to this article.

Video

In this video you will see how you can make a cinder block at home:

Watch the process of laying the cinder block:

A photo

Invented at the beginning of the 20th century, cinder blocks have firmly entered modern construction as the most versatile, budgetary and unpretentious wall material. The cinder block is used for the construction of load-bearing walls of houses with a height of no more than 3 floors, the installation of partitions, the laying of a strip or column foundation under garages, kiosks, change houses, for the construction of underground and ground office premises, and the arrangement of attics in multi-storey buildings.

Before starting to draw up a project for a cinder block house, it is necessary to take into account the properties, advantages and disadvantages of this material:

1. Cinder blocks are made by vibrating compacting a mixture of M500 cement with water and filler in special forms. The most typical list of fillers is granulated slag and granite/gravel screenings. This technology provides the maximum reduction in the cost and consumption of the binder without a large loss of strength. Cinder block is the cheapest type of wall stone.

2. The compressive strength of the cinder block is consistent with brick - M50 - M100, solid blocks - up to M150. The material is absolutely not subject to shrinkage and gains strength over time. But fragility and low tensile strength does not allow the use of cinder blocks in the construction of walls with significant transverse loads.

3. During solidification, the material acquires a noticeable porosity - this facilitates laying work, reduces the requirements for the foundation, reduces thermal conductivity, and increases sound insulation properties.

4. It is absolutely not necessary to involve professional builders for laying the cinder block. The volume, duration, complexity of laying and measuring operations are 3-4 times lower than when building a brick wall.

5. The cinder block does not enter into chemical reactions with the atmosphere, does not burn, rodents and insects do not settle in it. The guaranteed service life of a cinder block with the right choice of material is 15 years for non-plastered walls, 50 for double-sided protection, 100 or more if periodic plaster restoration is carried out.

6. The main disadvantage is high hygroscopicity and low frost resistance class (F15 - F50). Wherever there is no way to protect the cinder block walls of the house from prolonged contact with water, they quickly lose all insulating qualities and crack after freezing. Therefore, bilateral plastering is almost mandatory and external insulation of the cinder block is desirable. It is unacceptable to use this material in walls that are subject to periodic flooding.

7. The cinder block construction plan must be strictly tied to the weather seasons, the optimal time for laying is the end of spring - the beginning of autumn. When leaving for the night or weekend, the stacked blocks protect from possible rain. Before winter, it is necessary to have time to mount the roof on cinder block houses.

8. A cinder block, especially a hollow one, greatly reduces strength under the influence of chasing with impact tools, and when you try to gouge a through round hole, an entire segment can collapse. It is necessary to think over in advance the scheme for laying engineering systems and make careful cuts with a grinder.

9. The presence of metallurgy waste in the composition makes the material non-environmental. Harmful substances released in small quantities disappear within a year after production, therefore it is recommended not to populate and not to plaster the walls until the end of the first winter after the construction of the box.

Overview of layouts

1. The project of house 1 is a real one-story mansion 15x10 with a total area of ​​220 m2 with a high spacious attic. A significant part of the first floor is occupied by a garage and office space, on the opposite side there is an exit to a large terrace. In the living room and kitchen located next to each other with an area of ​​​​23 m2, two dozen guests can be received at once. For convenience, there is a bathroom.

Going out to the second floor, we find ourselves in a spacious hall with a large viewing window in the entire wall. The project of the floor provides for the presence of two children's rooms of 12 m2 and a bedroom of 22 m2. There are also 2 bathrooms and an office. The entrance to each room is located in the central hall. 1 nursery and office have adjoining balconies.

2. House project 2 - the best-priced version of a 10x10 house with an attic only above the residential part of the 1st floor, with a total area of ​​120 m2. The project provides for a garage of 20 m2, a small hall, 1 bathroom for the whole house, a living room of 22 m2 with a corner staircase, a stove and access to the terrace. The kitchen is quite small, only 12 m2. On the second floor there is a bathroom and 2 rather small bedrooms - 17 and 9 m2. This area is clearly not enough for a large family.

3. House project 3 - the best for a large family, but does not have a garage. This is a real two-story house 10x10 with an area of ​​180 m2, with many rooms in which family members can find privacy if necessary. On the ground floor there is a bathroom, a boiler room, a small kitchen, a separate free-use room, a spacious entrance hall of 11 m2, and a living room of 18 m2. The project of the 2nd floor includes 3 bedrooms 12, 12 and 19 m2, and 2 spacious bathrooms. One of the bathrooms can only be accessed through the master bedroom.

How to calculate the cost?

The cost of building a house from cinder block will include:

1. Designing a detailed scheme of the house, taking into account engineering systems. The order of the project will cost at least 25,000 rubles.

2. Excavation to a depth of 0.5-1 m under the house - about 400 rubles per m3.

3. Reinforcement and pouring of a tape monolithic foundation, 0.5 m wide for a wall of 40 cm - about 8,000 rubles per 1 m3 only for materials and their delivery.

4. Backfilling the underground with crushed stone and sand - about 600 per 1 m3, including delivery. At this stage, you can include a basement in the project.

5. To order a complete arrangement of a turnkey strip foundation will cost approximately 17,000 rubles / m3 of concrete work.

6. Buying a cinder block. A typical size is 190x190x390 mm. Given a mortar thickness of 10 mm, it is very easy to calculate the material consumption per square meter - 12.5 blocks per 19 cm wall, and 25 blocks per 39 cm wall. The price is approximately 30-35 rubles apiece. The project must include a fight and marriage in the amount of 5-10%.

7. Purchase of cement and sand. The technological rate of consumption of the solution is 1 cubic meter per 4.5 m3 of the wall. For its manufacture, you will need 6 bags of M400 cement and 1.1 cubic meters of sand (1 to 4 volume ratio) with a total price of 1800 rubles.

8. The price of floors and roofs.

9. The most significant point of the project is the cost of heating, sewerage, water, electricity and gas supply systems.

10. Windows, doors, plaster, finishing, insulation.

Additionally, the project should take into account the following points:

  • Concrete floors cannot be laid on the cinder block. If necessary, an armored belt is made of longitudinal beams.
  • In the walls you need to lay reinforcement through the row. This will lead to costs in the amount of about 300 rubles per m3 of masonry.
  • To further lighten, insulate and reduce the cost of the wall, you can use blocks with high voids (up to 40%). But they are more fragile and poorly suited for building a house above 2 floors.

The estimated price of a turnkey house is 20,000 - 24,000 rubles per 1 square meter, excluding the attic area. Although this option most often turns out to be more expensive than phased construction with the involvement of various performers, it practically does not require the investment of one's own strength and nerves. In addition, there are nice bonuses like free design of unique houses.

Cinder blocks are a popular wall material. It is often used in the construction industry for the construction of residential, office, utility rooms. Despite some shortcomings, it is considered one of the best options for building a house.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

Cinder blocks are produced by volumetric vibrocompression of concrete and various fillers: blast furnace slag, ash, gravel, perlite, expanded clay. The properties of the last component determine the technical characteristics of the material, in particular, its density (500 to 2000 kg / m³), ​​thermal conductivity (0.3 to 0.65 W / m ° C), frost resistance (15-35 freeze-thaw cycles) .

This material is chosen for building a house due to its affordable price, lightness, volume, and quick masonry. It can even be built without the involvement of professionals. Walls made of this material do not burn well and retain heat well due to the special design of the blocks (there are cavities inside and the structure of the block is porous). But at the same time, do not forget about some disadvantages:

  • high hygroscopicity, so the house needs high-quality heat and waterproofing;
  • uneven surface, which requires mandatory finishing;
  • the composition may contain harmful substances, you need to carefully choose a supplier and require a quality certificate (in artisanal conditions it is unacceptable);
  • monolithic blocks are heavy, which can increase transportation costs.

Everyone will determine for himself a cinder block, but its shortcomings can be easily eliminated with a competent approach to building a house.



Foreman's advice: for finishing the walls of a cinder block dwelling, it is better to use not a traditional cement mortar, but a special one with increased strength. It has a more reliable adhesion to the surface, and it will be much easier to carry out internal work (painting, wallpapering).

The technology of building a house from cinder block

You can build a cinder block house with your own hands. If you correctly approach the issue of wall insulation and waterproofing, then the owner will practically not feel the possible disadvantages. It is desirable to build a tape, columnar foundation on rocky-sandy soil and be sure to apply a layer of water-repellent material on it. Wall laying is carried out according to the same principle as brickwork: first we form corners, mark window and door openings and draw rows under the level. A cinder block house cannot be built without reinforcement. Each 3-4 row must be strengthened with an iron mesh, iron rods are used. The minimum thickness of a cinder block wall is 0.9 m.

The air gap between the wall and the outer cladding is filled with a heater with a thickness of at least 100 mm (foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam). You can plaster the inner surface with your own hands with a water-repellent solution, sometimes they put an additional layer of insulation and only then fix the lining, paint, glue the wallpaper.

Foreman's advice: when building a house from a cinder block, it is risky to use reinforced concrete floors (unless you install an iron belt over the wall blocks), it is better to opt for wooden or slabs.

price issue

Many opt for this material precisely because of its basic advantages: affordable price, lightness, masonry speed. The cost is lower than that of a brick. A full-bodied cinder block with dimensions of 400 * 200 * 200 can be bought for 35-60 rubles. apiece, hollow - about 40 p. Peregorodochnye will cost even cheaper. While one unit of brick costs about 12 r.

To build a house, for example, 10 × 10 m with 3 rooms and an attic, you will need approximately 2200 blocks. If we take the average price per piece - 50 rubles, we will spend 110 thousand rubles. for the purchase of wall material. But when laying a brick wall with a thickness of 2 stones per 1 m², 204 pieces will go. bricks. We multiply the area by this amount and get a total of 20,400 bricks. Now we take the average price per piece - 12 rubles. and do the same arithmetic operation. It turns out that we will need to spend 244,800 rubles on a house with an area of ​​100 m², and this does not include the cost of the solution, which is more than when using the first material.

Do-it-yourself cinder block house is a reliable and profitable solution. Individual disadvantages of the material can be easily eliminated by competent installation of heat and waterproofing materials. They will provide good performance properties of the home, and the blocks guarantee its strength.

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