We make curly plasterboard partitions with our own hands. How to make a drywall wall? Tools needed for the job

Due to inconvenient layouts, more and more people are making partitions with a door in their apartments to make the rooms not walkable, but isolated.

A plasterboard partition with a door allows you to quickly and effectively make your home more comfortable and convenient. A sliding door will save a lot of space.
If you follow the assembly instructions, you can do the installation of a partition with a door built into it with your own hands.

Creating a partition requires preliminary calculations that will help you avoid problems at the design stage. In order for the installation to be successful with your own hands, all calculations should be made in the drawing. To do this, we perform the following manipulations:

measure the perimeter of the room;
choose a place for construction;
determine the dimensions of the partition: height, length and width. The width should be determined based on the width of the door that you will mount in the partition;

Note! The height of the partition in this case will be equal to the height of the walls.

All calculations are transferred to the scheme.

Before carrying out all the above calculations, it is necessary to decide on the format of the door, which you will later build into the partition. You should also know exactly whether niches will be located in your partition. If you need them, they must be indicated on the drawing with all dimensions.
When the drawing is drawn up, you can easily calculate the required amount of materials.

Tools and materials

Any construction work involves the use of a certain set of tools. In this situation, you will need:

screwdriver or drill;
hydraulic level or laser level;
tape measure and pencil;
plumb lines;
plane;
knife for cutting drywall sheets;
spatula.

The list of necessary materials for creating a partition with your own hands includes:

drywall sheets. For residential premises, you can use standard sheets, and for the kitchen and bath - only moisture resistant. Plate thickness - 12.5 mm;
galvanized profile. It is best to take a width of 75 mm;
wooden bars;
self-tapping screws and dowels;
primer and putty;
sickle.

Such a set of materials and tools will allow you to quickly make the installation of the entire structure with your own hands.

Getting ready to work right

Preparation is a key point in any construction work involving the use of a metal frame and drywall sheets.
In order to quickly and correctly do all the installation work, it is necessary to carry out preliminary preparation. In this situation, it includes the following actions:

Wall primer

clearing the space in the room so that nothing interferes with the work;
removal from the walls of the previous finishing material. If the wall remains untreated, this may adversely affect the quality of attaching metal profiles to it;
Next, we prime the wall and ceiling. This is especially necessary if the structure is being built in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

After the primer dries, you should, referring to the drawing, apply markings to the walls, ceiling and floor. Be sure to use a level to bring out clear and even lines.
Now everything is ready and you can start assembling the structure.

Construction assembly

To make a partition with a built-in door, you need to perform three main steps:

assemble the frame;
sheathe it with plasterboard sheets;
build a door. The door in the plasterboard partition can be ordinary or sliding.

Frame assembly

Installation of metal profiles to create a frame structure is as follows:

we fix the guide profile on the floor along the drawn lines with the help of self-tapping screws;
further into this profile, which plays the role of a support, we insert a guide profile along the wall. It must go strictly vertically;
dowel-nails can be used to attach profiles to the walls, especially if the house was built from a foam block. The fastening step in this situation is 40-50 cm;
we connect vertical profiles with each other with short profiles installed horizontally. The length of short profiles must correspond to the width of the partition;
then we carry out the installation of guide profiles around the entire perimeter of the partition. They need to be fixed along the marking lines on the ceiling, floor and wall;

to connect the profiles to each other, you need to use short self-tapping screws.

Partition frame

When installing profiles on the ceiling, plumb lines should be used to ensure the correctness of the entire structure. The profiles on the ceiling must be strictly parallel to the profiles installed on the floor. It is to determine compliance with this parameter that you need to use plumb lines.
After the frame is ready along the perimeter of the partition, you can proceed with the installation of internal vertical profiles. First we create a doorway. This procedure requires the following operations:

we cut the rack profiles to the size we need and insert them into the guides;

Note! The width of the doorway should be the same at the top and bottom.

doorway frame

check the installed racks with the level;
inside the profiles, to increase the rigidity of the structure, you need to insert wooden bars. They are inserted along the entire length of the profile. Bars need to be inserted only along the doorway;
wooden bars also need to be inserted into the frame of niches and shelves, which are supposed to be mounted on the partition;
here it is recommended to fix all the elements with self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

After that, you can install vertical profiles across the entire width of the structure. In this situation, the distance between adjacent profiles is determined by the width of the drywall sheet. Thus, there should be three profiles per sheet. Therefore, the installation step will be 60 cm.
At the end of the installation of the partition device between the metal profiles, we conduct wiring. This is only done when necessary.

Structural sheathing

When the metal structure has been assembled, we proceed to sheathing it with plasterboard sheets. To sheathe the structure with your own hands, you must also adhere to certain recommendations.
The lining of the partition is as follows:

We put solid sheets in the middle, and we sheathe the edges with pieces. So trimming will be less noticeable;
to obtain pieces of the desired size, we make markings on the sheets and cut them with a knife;
next we sheathe the doorway;
the edges of the pieces must be processed with a planer;
the fastening of drywall sheets is carried out so that the edges fall into the middle of the profiles;
the screwing pitch of the self-tapping screws is 15-20 cm. And the screwing depth into the material is 1 mm.

Partition sheathing

Partition sheathing is first carried out on one side. Then we put soundproofing material inside. Most often, mineral wool or isover is used as such a material. The sheathing of the structure on one side allows you to make the insertion of sound insulation more convenient.
After installing the soundproofing layer, sheathing with drywall plates is carried out on the other side.

Finishing the partition

When the entire structure of the partition is removed and sheathed, we carry out its final finishing. To do this, you need to do the following:

Smearing joints

we process all joints between the plates with a sickle;
then put putty on top of the tape. Do not forget that the screws should also be hidden under a layer of putty;
all irregularities are rubbed with sandpaper;
apply a layer of finishing putty. It should be perfectly even. But if there are small irregularities, we overwrite them with sandpaper.

Next, we prime the entire partition. After the mortar has dried, it is ready for final finishing and door installation. As a result, you will get a new drywall wall with a built-in door.
The final finish involves painting the entire structure or pasting it with wallpaper. You can also use other finishing materials. The main condition is to preserve the overall composition in the interior of the room. As a result, you will get an excellent partition wall.

The layout of any living space is a purely personal matter, and what one likes may not suit others radically. In order to be able to make your own adjustments, reshape the space for yourself, there is a simple but reliable way that involves the use of drywall sheets, which even a beginner can work with. The main thing is to know exactly how to make a wall from this material.

Peculiarities

The house is a real fortress for everyone, therefore it is so important to equip it in such a way as to feel confident, comfortable and good in it. Buying a new home or changing the number of occupants of an old one may require redevelopment of the space so that everyone is comfortable in it. In an old house, additional space may be needed if there is a replenishment in the family or one of the relatives needs a personal closed space in which to be alone.

The issue of planning in free-type new buildings becomes especially acute., where there are no clear boundaries of the room, and each tenant can make the design that he likes. You can build brick walls, this has its advantages, because such a design will last a long time and nothing will happen to it. But it is not easy to build such piers, and most importantly, it requires a large amount of materials. For those who have never laid a brick, it will not be easy to cope with this task and make a high-quality and durable partition.

In view of all these circumstances, one of the simplest and most convenient options is the construction of drywall walls. Such designs are easy to make on your own and even non-professionals can do this process. In this matter, it is important to know what is needed to build a wall and what difficulties you will face.

Plasterboard wall has a number of important advantages compared to brick, it is easy to install, does not create a lot of weight on the floor due to the frame of thin profiles and simple sheets, the thickness of which does not exceed a centimeter.

Another factor that can be considered an advantage of such structures is the possibility of erecting partitions, walls and partitions without obtaining the appropriate permission for redevelopment, which will speed up the process and eliminate unnecessary procedures. For work on creating new boundaries of the premises, it is necessary to determine what and where will change, mark the territory and calculate how much materials will be needed.

Drywall sheets are quite compact in thickness and when stacked one on top of the other, a lot of material can be brought at once. Its weight is also small.

In order for the new walls to be warm and not let in sound, insulation and sound insulation are placed inside the structure. It is possible to conduct wiring in it, install a switch and a socket so that the functionality of the room does not suffer from its redevelopment.

When planning the alteration of large-scale objects, it is important to understand how justified the use of one or another material will be, therefore it is simply necessary to clearly understand what the pros and cons of drywall are and what exactly it will allow you to create in a residential area.

Advantages and disadvantages

The use of drywall made it possible to obtain fantastic opportunities that were previously extremely difficult, if not impossible, to implement using brick as the main material and building walls, piers and partitions from it.

From this material indoors you can make:

a wall that will divide the room;
a partition that will allow you to zone the space or give a decorative effect due to an intricate design;
complex decorative design and achieve original shapes and textures in the room.

A feature of drywall is the ease of working with it. In order to build a wall, you need to form a frame and sheathe it with sheets. The frame structure can be either from metal profiles or from wood. The resulting structure is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

Sheets can be ordinary, waterproof and flame retardant, their choice will be dictated by the place where the new wall or partition is being created. When one wall is sheathed, glass or mineral wool must be placed inside the structure so that the piers not only help to divide the room into two parts, but also perform the function of heating and sound protection.

Among the advantages of this material are:

ease of installation of structures of any type and complexity;
the ability to erect structures of any shape and type;
when carrying out work on the construction of walls or partitions, you do not need to have any special or expensive tools;
inside the wall, you can put wiring, a telephone cable, an air duct, which makes it also functional;

the resulting wall will be absolutely even and smooth, therefore, the work on its alignment will be reduced to grouting the joints between the plates and puttying the entire surface for further decorative work;
after all the preparatory work, the finished wall can be painted in any color, wallpapered or even tiled.

This material also has its drawbacks, which include:

change in the properties of the material upon contact with water, drywall can swell from this;
any load must be thought out in advance and the place of attachment of the picture, sconce, lamp or lamp must be initially strengthened;
too heavy objects should not be installed on this surface, which should be initially taken into account when planning and determining the places of each decor element.

So, with the help of drywall, you can make a wall of any shape and appearance that you can imagine, while the sound insulation and heat in the room will be at a high level, because for this, the appropriate filling is placed inside the structure. Sockets with switches will allow you not to limit the possibilities of a new space.

Materials and tools

When planning the construction of a drywall wall, you need to choose the right materials and have all the necessary tools with you so that the work process takes as little time as possible and does not take a lot of effort and energy. In order for the wall to be strong enough, a frame is erected for it from a metal profile. There are different profiles for different purposes.

Most often, for such structures, two options are used:

Profile, but which will be attached directly to the drywall itself. It is smaller and conventionally designated as "D".
A profile with which the main frame of the wall will be erected. It should be more powerful and larger, conventionally designated as "W".

For each of the above profiles, there are two more options, one of which is a support and is designated as "C", and the second is a guide and has the designation "U". The guide profile is simpler, it has the form of a U-shaped structure and smooth walls. The support profile is inserted end-to-end into it. It also has an additional difference from the guide in the form of ribbing, which gives greater strength to the material and does not allow spontaneous bending.

As the main load-bearing element of the frame, you need to use a supporting and smaller profile, to which the drywall sheet will be attached. Its size is 60 by 27 millimeters. As guides for fixing this design, you need to use a narrow guide profile with dimensions of 28 by 27 millimeters. In order to form a wall frame, you need to take a supporting and large profile with dimensions of 50 by 50, 50 by 75 or 50 by 100 millimeters. As a guide for this design, a large guide profile with dimensions of 50 by 40, 75 by 40, 100 by 40 is used.

There is another version of the profile, which is a thicker and reinforced version of the large supporting profile. For the construction of simple walls, only wide profiles are used, but for more complex structures in which it is planned to lay any communications, it is already necessary to use thin profile options.

In order for the profile to be connected into a frame, you need to have a direct suspension or use a universal connector. The twisting process is carried out using small flea screws, which have a drill at the end. In addition, special self-tapping screws for metal are used, which have a countersunk head. To fix the frame to the wall, you can not do without plastic dowels and impact screws.

The optimal thickness of drywall sheets for the wall is 12.5 millimeters. A mandatory element should be a wide chamfer on the side of the sheet. Depending on the room, you need to choose the appropriate material - a moisture-resistant sheet is needed for the kitchen and bathroom, and an ordinary one is also suitable for an ordinary room. A distinctive feature will be the color - for moisture-resistant sheets it is green, for ordinary sheets it is gray.

Thus, the crate of a drywall structure is most often made of a metal profile, but in some cases wood can also be used. Depending on the type of construction, it will be possible to choose one or another material and choose its thickness.

Tools that will be needed during the construction of walls from plasterboard sheets:

tape measure not less than 3 meters long;
level by 80 or 120 centimeters;
plumb lines;
fishing line with a rope;

mains or cordless screwdriver, impact drill with nozzles for self-tapping screws;
perforator;
scissors that can cut metal;
construction knife for cutting drywall sheets;
plasterboard grater.

frame

In order to make a high-quality and even plasterboard wall, first of all, it will be necessary to erect a metal frame, on which the sheets will already be attached. In order for the installation to be carried out correctly, certain patterns must be taken into account. The first step will be marking the territory where the construction of the structure is planned. The next step is to check the evenness of the corners.

Due to the fact that the walls in the room are often not very even, when building a new wall, you need to focus not only on one wall, but also take into account two opposite sides. If the walls have too uneven corners, the easiest way is to cover each of them with drywall, which will align them. Only after that, approach the installation of a new profile.

To level the racks, a laser level is best., but if it is not there, you can apply a simple plumb line. Before mounting the profile for walls, ceiling and floor, you need to paste it over with a special sealing tape. It will help in cushioning and soundproofing. Before you start fastening the profiles, you need to make a clear marking of the places on the floor, wall and shelf, where the base for the frame will be attached.

When everything is ready, you can begin to fix the guide profile, taking a step up to one meter. If the fastening goes to a wooden surface, then the distance is 50 centimeters and the adhesion goes with the help of self-tapping screws. If the work is done with a concrete surface, then the frame is screwed with dowels in increments of 75 centimeters. In this case, it is important to make holes in advance.

Both the carrier and the rack profile can be attached to the wall, but it is important that it be solid. If the height of the ceilings is more than three meters, then longer materials will have to be used for the construction. In the event that a door is planned in a new wall, it is important for it to leave an opening of the desired width on the floor. In the case of standard door dimensions of 80 centimeters, it is important to make the opening 8 centimeters wider in order to be able to install the door frame.

The rack profile is installed from the doorway and determines its width. The first place for fixing the profile is the floor, then the level of the entire structure is checked and it is attached to the ceiling. Racks can be installed with any step, it depends on the drywall sheets. Most often they are installed as a fastening tool for sheets at the edge and in the middle of the entire structure. The joint of two sheets should lie clearly in the middle of the profile.

If racks are installed frequently, then the strength of the wall increases, it will withstand a lot, but the cost of work also increases. As for the profile framing the doorway, for greater rigidity, a wooden block or a supporting profile can be placed in it. You can also use cross braces, which are also reinforced with a bar and installed where there is a horizontal drywall joint.

The doorway on top is additionally equipped with a jumper. The installation height depends on the dimensions of the door. If it is two meters, then you need to install the jumper at a height of two meters and five centimeters. They make it from a rack profile, which needs to be cut off longer - not 20, but even 30 centimeters. Stepping back 10 or 15 centimeters from each side of the profile, you need to make an incision at 45 degrees. The bevel should look outward.

The sides that were cut should be bent down and given the structure a U-shape. The vertical parts must be put on racks and secured with metal screws. When working with drywall sheets, it is important to use only special self-tapping screws that have a press washer. It is she who helps to easily pass through the canvas, while not damaging the cardboard and allowing the hat to deepen to the required distance.

Step by step installation instructions

If you need to create a drywall construction with your own hands, you need to properly organize the progress of work. The first thing that is needed is to level the floor and walls to which the structure of the future wall will be attached. Only after that, you can make markings on the floor, taking into account both parallel walls to derive the correct angle for the structure. If the adjacent walls are also covered with drywall, then initially a crate is erected for them, and after that the installation of the frame for the new wall begins.

According to the markings that are applied to the floor and walls, only the profile needs to be leveled., and the width of the entire wall will increase after the installation of drywall and putty. Be sure to note the location of the doorway, if any. After marking is completed on the floor, the next step is to mark the wall and ceiling. To do everything perfectly accurately, it is better to use a laser level. If this is not available, a simple plumb line will do.

When everything is ready, a metal frame is erected. The first profile is fixed to the floor with dowels. The second stage is the construction of part of the structure on the ceiling. When both parts are ready, they are connected into a common structure using CW support posts. If there is a door or a window, you need to use the same racks for them. Installation takes place from the bottom up, the front side should be directed inside the window or door openings.

The next step is the installation of vertical supports from the same CW profile with a distance of 55 and 60 centimeters from each other. When everything is ready, all the supports are checked by level. After that, work is underway to install horizontal edges with a UW profile. When all these works have been completed, you can begin fastening drywall sheets.

Based on the fact that this material has standard dimensions of 2 by 1.20 m, 2.50 by 1.20 m and 3 by 1.20 m, different dimensions will be needed for different ceilings. If the room is not high, then the sheet will most likely have to be cut, the same principle is used for ceilings over three meters, when the length has to be increased.

In order to cut the sheet, use a construction knife.

The cutting process consists of the following steps:

laying the sheet on the surface, which should be as even and firm as possible;
you need to draw a line along which the incision will go with a pencil;
you need to cut carefully and only the cardboard itself;

the sheet is shifted to the edge of a flat support to the drawn line, by pressing it is necessary to make a break along it;
turn the drywall over and draw the same line on the reverse side, along which to make the same incision;
move along the notch line, press and completely break the GKL.

The next step is to attach drywall sheets to the finished frame.

For this you need:

On the first sheet, the side chamfer is removed, for which a strip of 55 millimeters is cut off.
Sheets are fastened from the bottom corner of the wall. It is important to make a small indent from the floor of 10 or 15 millimeters.
Fastening the sheet to the crate using self-tapping screws 3.5 by 35 millimeters. The edges are fastened first, and then they move to the middle. The width from the self-tapping screw to the self-tapping screw should not exceed 25 centimeters. Hats need to be slightly deepened into the surface of the sheet.

After installing the first element of drywall, you need to measure the distance left to the ceiling and cut off the appropriate piece.
Formation of a chamfer on a sheet.
Install it on the frame.
It is important to fasten the following sheets in a checkerboard pattern, but there is no need to cut the chamfer. This is how the whole sheet is fastened, without trimming. Mounting goes from ceiling to floor. Thus, the entire side of the future wall is sheathed.

When work on one side has been completed, it is important to consider whether wiring and telephone cable will be needed in the new room. If yes, then the next step is to install them. For wiring, it is necessary to prepare corrugated pipes and lead wires into them. After that, it is necessary to make holes in the profile with a diameter of 3.5 cm and thread pipes with wires into them. It is important to determine the holes for the sockets and the switch and make them in advance.

To build a quality wall, you need to supplement its interior with appropriate materials., which will have sound insulation and will make it possible to feel confident and comfortable, as if behind a stone wall. This must be done correctly by using rolled mineral wool 6 or 12 centimeters thick. Cotton wool fits tightly between the profiles, this will be enough for a good fix. After everything is done, you can put up a second wall.

The technology of its sheathing is the same. Once all installation work is completed, the a new stage, where the finished wall is subjected to the processing process:

joints between drywall sheets are glued with a sickle;
wall treatment with starting putty;
processing the wall with finishing putty, leveling the places where the screws are located;
grouting putty with sandpaper;
decorative wall decoration.

A false wall can be prepared quickly enough, it all depends on the skill of the master and his experience. A beginner can also assemble such a structure, it just takes him more time.

Interior walls will serve for a long time, the main thing is to monitor the conditions of their operation. As a decor for such elements, you can use paint, wallpaper or tiles, it all depends on the room, the interior and the desire of the owners themselves.

Design

Drywall is a very convenient material for work, especially for creating interesting and unusual images in the interior. This becomes possible due to the fact that the sheets can take a wide variety of shapes, they can not only be cut, but also bent, for which it is enough just to wet the sheet and give it the desired shape.

You can use this material anywhere.- both in a private house and in an apartment, and in each of the cases, the design can be completely different. Options for exactly how a particular space may look may differ in style, shape, and texture. It is possible to build structures with plasterboard in the bathroom, bedroom, corridor and any other room, only the finishing material will differ. For rooms with a high level of humidity, moisture-resistant sheets are used.

The false wall is completely similar to the usual one, moreover, it can be equipped with a door and fully serve its owners to separate certain areas of the room. To fulfill such an idea, when designing, leave room for an opening and later place doors in it.

For space zoning, it is not necessary to build entire walls, you can limit yourself to a small partition, which will look spectacular with lighting from above and decorative boxes. The implementation of the partition is not a continuous canvas allows you to give the design lightness. Complete with shelves will help add comfort and hide small things in a secluded place. This option is best suited for the living room, but you can use it in the hall.

A distinctive characteristic of drywall is the ability to apply any decoration methods to it. To create a cozy atmosphere in living rooms, you can glue the wallpaper on the finished wall or paint it in any color and even overlay it with natural or artificial stone. The latter option is especially well suited for a fireplace, which can also be made from plasterboard. In the kitchen or bathroom, the option of painting is also suitable, but you can also lay tiles to keep the walls from excess moisture and create the full feeling of a real brick wall.

When planning the construction of a plasterboard wall, it is initially necessary to prepare the room. There should not be anything superfluous in it, because it will not be easy to place a sheet 2 or 3 meters long in it. The room should be clean enough so that the drywall sheets do not get dirty, because then you will need to get rid of the stains so that they do not show up on the surface of the wallpaper or paint.

It is important to plan the room correctly, take into account the heating system, and if necessary, bring the batteries into the new living space. It is also necessary to take into account the light that will be blocked by the new design. If the windows are located only on one side, it is important not to completely block access to them.

If it is not a wall that is being formed, but a partition, it is better to do it with shelves, and not a solid structure, which will allow you to divide the space, make a storage area, and provide light access to the second part of the room.

Examples in the interior

A plasterboard wall can become a real highlight in the interior, the main thing is to approach the process of its design correctly, choose the right materials that will help decorate the room and emphasize its features.

In the bedroom with drywall, you can create an original and unique design. The wall by the bed is decorated with ornate lines, soft shapes give comfort and promote good rest. The presence of shelves allows you to store small things there and use them as a place for lamps.

For the living room, especially when it borders on the kitchen and is not separated by walls, you can use the original semicircular design, which rises from the wall to the ceiling. The space is divided into two zones. In this case, the use of white best helps to increase the space of both zones.

A plasterboard wall can be designed with a doorway to divide the space between two rooms. Doors can be single or double, with glass or deaf, it depends on the design of the room.

How to make a drywall partition, see the following video.

Those who have the opportunity to purchase square meters in new buildings can be happy with the purchase, because apartments in a new building are equipped in such a way that future residents feel comfortable, cozy and warm to live in them. However, not everyone can afford to spend their savings on luxurious living space, especially since it is extremely difficult to collect the full amount with the current level of wages.

Figured plasterboard partition

Therefore, most people have to huddle in old buildings, where real estate cannot boast of comfort and high-quality planning, especially for small-sized Khrushchev houses.

When more than one generation lives in such an apartment, one has to reckon with each household member and sooner or later think about how to isolate the rooms from each other so that the residents can coexist in the same territory more or less separately, and each had his own corner. How can I do that? There are several options that we offer to familiarize yourself with right now.

Living space redevelopment

What does it look like?

It is closed with drywall sheets or plywood panels, wood or thick, reliable cardboard. After that, it is placed, forming a hallway. A new opening for entering the room is created in this partition.

Redevelopment of the apartment with drywall

This option of isolating rooms in an apartment is considered the most time-consuming method, requiring considerable financial investments from the owner.

disadvantages

Firstly, if the wall structure in which you are going to build a new one is a carrier, you need to obtain the appropriate permit issued by the housing authorities for construction work. If you are given such a document, upon completion of the work, the redevelopment must also be properly registered.

Secondly, when taking away from the room part of the area for mounting the partition, keep in mind that as a result, the room will greatly decrease in size.

You can't expect great results in terms of sound insulation, especially if cardboard is used as a new wall.

Required Tools

To make redevelopment a reality, you must have the following list of tools and tools:

tools powered by electricity, with which you can make holes, for example, a drill or puncher;
self-tapping screws;
drywall sheets;
metal carcass;
foam tiles;
door frames;
door structure;
glue for wallpapering;
wallpaper.

Mounting technology

If you have made a decision from the metal component, it should be pre-treated with drywall sheets. Pre-measure the height and width of the new wall structure, select a metal profile in the store, taking into account that the horizontal slats are located at a distance of 50 to 60 cm from each other, for vertical slats a different step is set - 100–110 cm.

Drywall partition wall

Now, using dowels, fix the structure to the wall. Tighten the metal profile using screws. Make the frame part and cover with drywall.

Next, cut the wallpaper in the form of strips, apply a sufficient amount of glue and glue the wallpaper. If you want to achieve a sufficient level of noise insulation, fix several layers of drywall, between which lay foam boards with a thickness of 40 to 50 mm.

We make a temporary partition

In this case, you need to make a frame from boards or a metal profile, cover them from the sides with a thin plywood sheet. Fix the resulting frame against the wall in the area where you are going to put the partition, using good quality hinges.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard partitions

It's time to show creative ingenuity and properly under the walls. When the desire arises, you can roll the partition to the wall or, conversely, lower it and secure it to the floor and ceiling surfaces using latches.

Walk-in closet

Dressing room tasks

If you can allocate 1.5-2 square meters for the dressing room, we recommend dividing walk-through rooms using this method.

In addition, installing a large shelving unit inside will solve this problem, allowing you to move most of the clothes and free up stationary wardrobes and chests of drawers in other rooms.

Step by step instructions

Buy self-tapping screws, drywall sheets, and wallpaper for decoration.

Wall structures are made of drywall on a special metal frame fixed to the floor plane. Drywall is attached using self-tapping screws, wallpaper is glued on top. Now you can start installing the door.

Conclusion

If you have additional living space, it is better to temporarily move and only then isolate the passage rooms in the apartment, otherwise it is impossible to avoid inconvenience during the work process.

Arches in the doorway are a popular solution in modern apartments and houses. They not only serve as decoration, but also add free space by dismantling the door panels. You can make an arch yourself, using ready-made drawings or attracting imagination and coming up with your own version.

Arch configurations for doorways - classic, modern or portal?

The shape of the door arch is matched to the overall design of the room. Each side can be framed differently. The height and purpose of the communicating premises, the width of the doorway should be taken into account. There are a large number of arch configuration options: from a regular semicircle to a rectangular shape, with various variations of side elements.

Let's consider some of them:

The classic version is suitable for high rooms, the height of which exceeds 3 meters. The bending angle of the classic arch is 45 degrees.
In Art Nouveau arches, the radius of the bend exceeds the size of the doorway, so there are corners between the arc and the vertical elements that can be made sharp, rounded or given a different shape. The modern option is often used in typical apartments.
Romantic style is suitable for wide doorways. You can install a horizontal insert between rounded corners.
The rectangular portal option is more suitable for rooms with clear vertical and horizontal lines. This option should be chosen for houses made of timber and logs, in which it fits perfectly into the interior.

The popular high-tech style welcomes clear forms, minimalism and modern materials. Door arches in this style are rarely used. But if there is a desire to have an arched opening, then it is better to make an arch-portal with rounded corners and a horizontal top. You can make an arched opening of an irregular original shape. A high-tech arch does not require special design; it is enough to paint it to match the color of the walls. Built-in lamps will look good in the arched opening.

What can the arch be made of - metal or wood?

In construction, arched structures must withstand the load from higher structures and walls. Doorways are not load-bearing structures. If in the first case it is necessary to select a material that can withstand serious external loads, then for the door arch it must withstand its weight along with the finish.

The arch, installed instead of the door, is an element of the interior, performs a decorative function, the lintel above the opening and the wall experience load-bearing loads. The easiest way to make a door arch is to buy a ready-made set of inlaid elements made of laminated chipboard or plastic. The elements of the kit should be adjusted to the dimensions of the opening and assembled according to the instructions. Cons of this method:

dimensions may not fit the opening;
arched structures are standard;
high set cost.

For an arched opening, you can use light and heavy materials. If you make an arch of stone, brick or concrete, you need to take into account their weight. For such structures, a foundation device and a reinforced bond with the walls of the opening are necessary.

A metal arch is suitable for any style, but for these purposes, material should be selected carefully. Stainless steel is expensive, galvanized iron inside the premises does not look very aesthetically pleasing. It is difficult to decorate an arch with curly metal parts, so metal arches are rarely used for internal openings.

Beautiful wooden arch. Natural wood looks harmonious and almost does not require additional finishing. Materials such as fiberboard, chipboard, plywood and drywall can be processed well, they are used for sheathing. Structures made of these materials can be painted, covered with decorative plaster, tiled or natural stone, pasted over with wallpaper. The frame is best made from a metal profile or wooden bars with a section of 20x20, 30x30 mm.

Preparing the opening and materials - what will you need?

Before you make an arch in the doorway, we carry out a number of preparatory work. First, remove the doors and dismantle the door frame. Then we expand the doorway to the planned dimensions. It is not worth tidying the cut corners, as they will be covered by the frame. It is important that the supporting profile can be securely fastened to the walls in a strictly vertical position. If necessary, you need to level the surface of the walls with plaster. If backlighting is expected, wire in advance.

In order not to make a mistake with the dimensions, we make measurements in several places of the opening. If the walls have different thicknesses, we make the width of the arch racks along the thickest wall. To make it easier to cut out details from sheet finishing material, it is advisable to make a full-size template, its manufacture will allow you to avoid possible mistakes and see how the future arch will look.

For work you will need the following materials:

drywall (GKL);
guide and rack profile;
dowels;
self-tapping screws;
putty;
needle roller.

From the tools you should prepare a drill or a puncher, a jigsaw, metal shears, a pencil, a rope, a hacksaw, a building level, a screwdriver, a clerical knife or an ordinary sharp knife and other tools, the choice of which depends on the material of the arch.

Before installation, we make two front parts of the arch from GKL. They must be exactly the same. First, cut a sheet of drywall to the width of the doorway. Marking for a semicircle can be done using improvised means. We tie a rope to a pencil, measure a radius equal to half the width of the arched opening. With a homemade compass we make an even semicircle. Next, with an electric jigsaw or a clerical knife, we cut out a semicircle according to the marking and get a rectangular part with a cut out semicircle.

Making a frame - work in 10 steps

The first stage in the manufacture of an arch is to create a supporting arched frame.

When using a profile, we act according to the following algorithm:

1. First, along the perimeter of the opening, we create a contour, which we attach to the wall.
2. Then we will attach the upper curved part of the frame to the contour. If the vertical slopes are perfectly even, it is enough to attach the top.
3. We measure two vertical guides and fasten them with an indent equal to the thickness of the drywall and the layer of plaster, which is applied to the plasterboard with a thickness of about 2 mm. After applying the plaster, the surface of the arch should be flush with the wall.
4. Now we fasten the side parts of the frame on each side of the opening. If the walls are wooden, we use self-tapping screws as fasteners, if the walls are brick, concrete or stone - dowels-screws. The distance between the fasteners should not be more than 30 cm.
5. At the next stage, we create the end part of the arch. First, we make, on which we will fix the curved strip.
6. To make a curved part, on the side walls of the profile we make cuts every 5-6 cm with metal scissors. Thanks to the cuts, it is easy to give the profile the desired shape. We make two such parts for each contour of the guides.
7. We fasten the bent profile to the main frame.
8. To make the design reliable, we fix the curved arcs with several suspensions to the horizontal part of the frame. The number of hangers depends on the width of the opening. Usually 2-3 pieces are enough.
9. Next, on the guides fixed along the perimeter of the frame of both contours, we fasten the reinforcing crossbars from the rack profile. The step between them should be 40-60 cm.
10. If lighting is planned, you need to make the appropriate wiring.

As a result, we get a reliable arched frame made of a metal profile, which we will sheathe with drywall.

Rough lining and leveling with plaster

At the next stage, we mount drywall sheets on the frame. It is more convenient to work with a special arched drywall, which is reinforced with non-woven fiberglass. To make it take the desired shape, it is enough to knead it. There are two ways to shape ordinary drywall sheets:

According to the wet method, GKL sheets must be moistened with water, and then bent according to the template, fixing them on it. To speed up the process, we use a spiked roller. Sheets must be folded carefully so that there are no gaps. We fasten the sheets to the frame only after complete drying. It is possible to fasten the GKL strips to the frame immediately after wetting, fixing with self-tapping screws.
With the dry method, on one side of the drywall, we make parallel cuts that affect the outer layer of cardboard and gypsum. After fixing on the frame, the bend is of the correct shape and even, while the front part remains intact.

Next, we fasten the prepared front parts of the arch with the help of self-tapping screws in increments of 5-6 cm. When the skin is fixed, we sand the edges of the plasterboard. To protect them from chips, we attach a perforated one to the curved edge. Now we proceed to the priming and puttying work. First, coat the surface with a deep penetration primer. We wait 30-40 minutes for the primer to dry. To reinforce the second layer and reinforce the corners, we use a fiberglass mesh.

When applying plaster, we make sure that the edges are even and the mortar lies flush with the wall. At the final stage of the rough finish, we apply the third, finishing layer. When the putty hardens, we grind the surface with sandpaper to make it perfectly smooth. It should not have any protrusions from the caps of the screws.

Bringing beauty - decorating with wallpaper

Decorative finishing depends on the tastes of the owner, his financial capabilities and the style in which the room is decorated. The following options are possible:

painting to match the color of the walls;
pasting with veneer or wallpaper;
decorating with mirrors, tiles, mosaics;
sheathing with wood, plastic;
decoration with columns or molding.

You can decorate the opening with polyurethane moldings and textiles, it is important that the arch is in harmony with the overall design of the room. Sometimes it is enough to paint the arch in white or brown to make it look stylish and elegant. Illumination has become a fashionable element of decoration.

The framing of columns made of decorative stone and clinker looks stylish. This original solution will make the apartment unique and delight the owner. True, the work will require a lot of time and effort, but the result is worth it. Solidity and comfort will give the house a natural wood finish. If you come up with an interesting mosaic pattern, this can become a highlight of the decor. It is important not to overdo it with decoration. You should not use elements from different styles, it will look tasteless. All details should look harmonious, complementing each other, giving the room a certain style.

The simplest and cheapest finishing option is wallpapering the arched opening. Despite the simplicity of the solution, you need to choose the right wallpaper and adhere to the gluing technology, so that in the end the work is pleasing to the eye. Due to the curved details, it is almost impossible to match the wallpaper according to the pattern, so you should choose canvases either with an abstract pattern that does not require alignment, or plain without a pattern. You can glue wallpaper with a pattern on the front side, and make the end part plain or striped.

When choosing wallpaper, you need to pay special attention to their quality. They must be resistant to mechanical stress, amenable to cleaning, as they are constantly under heavy load. Paper wallpapers in this case are not suitable, as an option, stick vinyl or non-woven wallpaper, which can be cleaned with a damp cloth or sponge. Bamboo wallpaper or glass wallpaper is best suited.

When sticking wallpaper, you should adhere to the following rules:

1. When starting to glue a wall with an arched structure, we expect that the outermost canvas is not very close to the opening. It is more convenient to glue wide canvases.
2. We glue the last canvas, as usual, cutting it out along the contour of the arch. We cut off the part of the canvas protruding beyond the contours with sharp scissors, but not along the very edge, but retreating 2 cm.
3. We cut the resulting strip perpendicular to the opening line after 3 cm, wrap the resulting tongues inward and glue.
4. Similarly, paste over the top and the second half of the arch.
5. To paste over the inside of the arched opening, cut out a strip along the length of the arch from the bottom point to the opposite one and a width less than the width of the arch by 2 mm. For convenience, the strip can be cut lengthwise into two parts. Glue the strip from bottom to top.

With thick wallpaper, the gluing technique is slightly different along the edge of the opening. Before sticking the wallpaper, paint the edges of the arch with paint to match the color of the wallpaper. When the wallpaper is glued along the facade, we do not glue the wallpaper inside the opening, but wait for it to dry, and then carefully cut off the excess along the edge of the opening. We cut the inner strip a little wider than the depth of the opening. We glue the strip, combining the edge of the wallpaper and the edge. When the canvas is dry, cut off the excess part.

With the help of drywall, you can create an arch of any shape, which will give the room a personality. Thus, you can decorate any room with your own hands and increase its area by eliminating doors. In the inner part of the arch, you can mount shelves on which flowers in pots or figurines will be placed. House and apartment with interior arches look more attractive and original.

When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to build new partitions and internal walls in the apartment. This can be either a full-scale redevelopment of housing, or the desire to break the existing premises into parts and form rooms in a new building, which today, as a rule, are performed by a single space.

For the construction of internal partitions, drywall and metal profiles are used. This material is so convenient and easy to use that you can understand how to make a drywall wall with your own hands, even without outside help. However, in the process of forming walls from gypsum boards, there are many important nuances that must be taken into account in the process. Only in this way, as a result, you can get a reliable design that can last for a long time.

The main characteristics of drywall

Drywall has a number of undeniable advantages over other options for wall decoration in different rooms. Here are some of the most significant ones:

Acceptable price.
Ease of DIY installation.
Fire resistance and moisture resistance.
Environmental Safety.
The ability to give the desired shape.
Ease of installation of sound and noise insulation, lighting.
combination with other materials.

What material is better to make a drywall wall with your own hands? To do this, you can use several types of sheets from the manufacturer Knauf:

Standard (GKL) for dry rooms.
Moisture resistant (GKLV), almost universal, which is suitable for rooms with any humidity.
Fire resistant (GKLO) for rooms with increased risk of fire.
A sheet that combines two advantages - moisture resistance and fire resistance (GKLVO).

Important! For ordinary rooms in city apartments (except for the bathroom), it is better to use ordinary sheets, with which you can make almost any curly designs.

Work materials

Before you build a drywall wall, first you need to decide what we need to build a wall of materials and what kind of tools we have to work with.

In order to ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, it is necessary to initially erect a frame. It is made from a metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall from a number of accessories for its installation.

Profiles - types, features

Basically, a profile of two main sizes is used:

D - for the manufacture of a plane on which drywall (smaller) will be attached.
W - to form a common wall frame (larger).

Important! In addition, for each standard size, profile options are provided as a support (C) and a guide (U):

The guide option is a simpler type of U-shaped profile with smooth walls, a support profile is inserted into it with an end face.

In addition to the U-shape, the support profile has special ribbing, which is pressed for greater bending stiffness.

CD - size 60x27 mm is the main load-bearing element of the frame.
UD - size 28x27 mm is a guide for the CD profile.
CW - size 50x50, 50x75, 50x100 mm is a rack profile for forming a wall frame.
UW - size 50x40, 75x40, 100x40 mm is a guide for the CW profile.
UA - is a variant of the CW - profile, but reinforced with a thicker wall.

Important! In order to make a plasterboard wall with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles can be used. To make wider walls with laying communications, the CD and UD profiles are used, while two guides (parallel) are installed on each side of the wall at the required distance.

Fasteners:

To attach the profile to the frame, a direct suspension and a universal connector (crab) will be required. You can do without the latter.
The elements should be twisted with flea screws with a “drill” tip, as well as self-tapping screws for fixing drywall on metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5x35 mm).
To fix the entire frame to the walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.

sheet material

To build a wall, drywall sheets are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, without fail with a wide chamfer on the sides. In the event that the wall is made in the bathroom or in the kitchen, then a moisture-resistant type of GKL is used. They differ in color: a moisture-resistant sheet is green, and a regular one is gray.

Important! As a result, for the construction of the wall you will need: drywall, CD, CW, UD, UW profile, AU profile or wooden beam, dowels, mineral wool, sealing tape, metal corner.

Instruments

In order to build a drywall wall, you will need the following tools:

Level (120 cm, 80 cm).
Roulette.
Fishing line.
Plumb.
Reversible drill or screwdriver.
Fishing line.
Metal scissors.
Perforator.
Torque for drywall.
Construction knife.

Beginning the installation of the plasterboard wall frame

So, with the definition of the necessary profiles and the preparation of tools completed, you can begin to plan and place the future wall. The floor and adjoining wall to which the new wall will be attached must be at the pre-finishing stage, i.e. the walls are plastered and the floor is level with screed.

General nuances

For example, let's consider the formation of a wall from a CW, UW profile. On the floor, it is necessary to mark the placement of the future wall. This takes into account the following nuances:

Almost nowhere can you find perfectly right angles between the walls in the rooms. This is especially true for old houses. At different ends, the distance between them may differ by several centimeters. When marking a new wall, it is necessary to take this moment into account and be tied not to one wall, but to both, running in parallel. In this case, the distances are averaged. So you can prevent the visual curvature of the resulting room.
In the event that, in addition to installing the wall, all walls are sheathed with drywall, then the frame is first displayed or, at least, the sheathing is marked in such a way as to make the most right angles. After that, only you can start building walls.
When designing the first line where the wall will be located, it must be taken into account that the guide profile will be equal to it, and not the resulting wall. To this mark, the thickness of the plasterboard, a layer of putty, as well as finishes will be added.

Wall and ceiling markings

After you decide on the first line on the floor, you can begin to transfer it to the walls and ceiling. To do this, you need to use a plumb line. If it is possible to use a laser beam, then this greatly simplifies the task.

Important! All profiles to make a drywall wall that are fixed to the floor, existing panels or ceiling are installed using sealing tape between the supporting surface and it. The UW profile guides are first attached to the ceiling and floor. They are fixed at the edges every half meter with dowels, as well as impact screws.

Fastening profiles - features of work:

CW-profile support posts are fixed along the edges of the rails.
Racks are also mounted in places where a window or doorway will be formed, which are needed when building a plasterboard wall between rooms.
Profiles are best fixed on the bottom rail first. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and set strictly vertically according to the level.

Important! When arranging these profiles, the margin for sheathing with plasterboard strips over the profile is taken into account.

The profiles are mounted with the front side inside the opening. The racks are fastened to the rails using self-tapping flea screws.
Support profiles along the perimeter of window and door openings should be reinforced with wooden bars inserted inside the profile and fastened with self-tapping screws.

Important! The bar must be selected in accordance with the width of the profile. If the AU profile is used, then it is quite possible to do without bars.

The next step is the installation of the CW support profiles along the entire length of the frame vertically. The first profile from the adjacent wall is set at a distance of 55 cm, all subsequent ones at a distance of 60 cm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each of the profiles.

Important! Be sure to check the vertical installation of the profiles.

To designate the top of the door opening, as well as the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW profile is used. A piece of profile is cut off 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the bend of the side bends of the front side of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The profile sides must be cut at a 45 degree angle, starting from the edge of the profile to the mark and to the bottom of the profile. Then the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped design should be obtained.
The resulting workpiece with bent edges is put on the racks on the sides of the opening and rises to the required height. Fastened with self-tapping screws, which fix the edges of the profile to the racks. The obtained oblique ears, formed on the main part of the workpiece, are also attached. By the same principle, the perimeter of window openings is formed.
On this, the work on the formation of the frame can be called completed. Now you can proceed to the process of fastening drywall sheets. As a rule, sheet sizes are standard: 1200x3000, 1200x2500, 1200x1200. Often the ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet may not be enough in height.

Important! The first sheet, installed close to the edge, most often the adjacent wall, should be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, on one side, a strip 50 cm wide is cut off along its entire length.

cutting drywall

Before you make a wall of drywall, you need to cut it. For this, an ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades is used:

The sheet must be placed on a flat surface.
Using a pencil, the cut line is marked and an incision is made with a knife on the top layer of cardboard.
After that, the sheet is shifted along the notch line to the edge of the support and carefully broken off.
Returning the sheet to its original position, it is unfolded on edge, and then bent.
On the second side, the cardboard is also cut, but not through.
After the sheet is turned over and the edges of the support are displaced, it can be finally chopped off.

Important! In order to provide a gap that can be qualitatively sealed in the future with putty, a bevel-bevel is made on the cut edge of the sheet with a slope of 22.5 degrees. To do this, you need to use a special planer for drywall. Also, a chamfer is made on the edge of the sheet, which will be adjacent to the GKL strip located below or above the sheet.

Fixing drywall sheets:

To fasten the sheets to a metal frame to make a drywall wall, it is necessary with the help of self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm.
First, the edges of the sheet are attached, and then along the edges and the middle line. For this, there is a special marking that marks the positions of the screws every 25 cm.
The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more.
Self-tapping screws must be screwed in such a way that the caps go a little deeper into the GKL or do not peek out above the wall level.

Important! Sheets are fastened at a distance of about 15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

Having fastened the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece is cut off from the plasterboard. It is also chamfered on the sides where it will adhere to the top or bottom sheet and to the ceiling.
Subsequent sheets are mounted entirely without chamfering and in a checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part from below.

Thus sheathe one side of the wall.

Bookmark wiring, installation of switches, sockets

Before starting the sheathing of the second side, if necessary, you can lay the wires:

To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 3.5 cm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the desired height.
It is better when the edges of the hole were concave to one side and bent in such a way as not to subsequently damage the wires.

Important! The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in corrugated pipes.

Soundproofing

In order to make a plasterboard wall with good sound insulation, mineral wool is used:

It is easier to use a rolled version of this material with a width of 60 or 120 cm. The second option is sheet, cut in half lengthwise.
Cotton wool is laid tightly without gaps between the rack profiles. There is no need to reinforce it in any way.
For greater reliability, you can make horizontal lintels from a wooden beam along the width of the wall, on which mineral wool will then be based of a shorter length than the height of the ceilings.

Important! This method is suitable for places where there is a possibility of moisture getting inside the wall. However, it is necessary to ensure sufficient ventilation of the interior space.

Completion of the plasterboard wall

After that, you can begin to sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side is sheathed, you can begin to fill all the end surfaces:

Between the drywall sheets there is a distance of 100 mm, formed by chamfers, which is somewhat recessed. The joints must be glued with a serpentine mounting grid and compared with the general level of the wall with a starting putty.

Finally, we recall that the installation of a wall of drywall with your own hands should be done slowly, having carefully thought through everything and prepared everything you need. Happy repair!

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