Filling the shower tray with a ladder. Do-it-yourself tile shower tray

Despite the presence of various models on sale, you can make a shower tray with your own hands. This will not only save money, but also make a design that exactly matches the layout of the room and your idea of ​​\u200b\u200bdesign. The main requirements for the design are high-quality waterproofing and reliability. The rest of the work is not difficult.

Ready-made models available for sale are made from different materials:

• become,
• cast iron
• acrylic.

In shape, they usually correspond to the configurations of the most common models of shower cabins, which means that there are:

• square,
• corner,
• rounded.

Pallets may also differ in depth.

Advantages of homemade pallets

Like many other designs in a house or apartment, making a shower tray with your own hands will cost you less than purchasing and installing a factory model. Self-construction takes time, but can save a lot of money.

The undoubted advantage of doing the work on your own is also complete freedom to implement design ideas. In this case, you are not limited to the standard shapes and colors of the available models. The relevance of this advantage is especially noticeable if a shower cabin with a tray is installed in a large room and may have a non-standard fantasy shape.

Facing the surface with waterproof ceramic tiles or mosaics will allow you to choose not only the color, but also the texture of the surface, decorate it or combine shades.

Materials and tools necessary for work

When deciding how to make a do-it-yourself shower tray from tiles, it is important to know that a set of necessary tools will not require additional costs. Everything you need is available from almost any home master.

You need to prepare:

• manual or electric tool for cutting tiles (especially if you have chosen a large-format cladding grade),
• trowel, spatula and chisel,
• roller or paint brush,
• ruler, square and pencil for marking,
• drill with nozzles,
• rule and level to level the surface.

The set of materials includes:

• cement,
• brick or additional amount of cement to make the filler sides of the pallet,
• waterproofing purchased mixture or bitumen,
• facing tiles (it is important to choose a material designed for constant contact with water and having a non-slip safe surface),
• waterproof tile adhesive
• self-tapping screws.

Note: To level the tiles, use a rubber mallet or a spatula with a rubberized handle. Do not forget about the "crosses", with which it is easy to maintain the same width of the seams between the tiles or blocks of the mosaic canvas.

Preparatory work

The amount of preparatory work largely depends on the condition of the floor. If there was no screed in the room before installation, it will be necessary to perform it for installation. The floor before performing the screed is waterproofed with a polymer film or bituminous mastic with a call to the walls.

The finished screed is primed and waterproofed with the mixture again. Multi-layer waterproofing and primer not only prevent flooding of the premises below, but also protect against the occurrence of pathogenic microflora, the appearance of high humidity and unpleasant odors.

• If you are thinking about how to make a shower tray with your own hands as comfortable as possible, you can supplement it with a “warm floor” system. Its installation is carried out under a rough base. Also, for insulation, it is possible to lay polystyrene foam sheets under the screed, but you need to keep in mind that this will raise the level of construction.
• All work is performed with checking the geometry by level.
• You can strengthen the base with a metal mesh laid in a screed.

The height of the base is chosen for reasons of ease of use, but it should be taken into account the need to maintain a slope of at least 3 ° for the discharge pipe. Too low a foundation will not allow this condition to be met, which will negatively affect the operation of the drain. A high foundation or pallet with high sides can be provided with an additional step on the outside for ease of use.

After the screed has hardened and a waterproofing layer has been applied to it, another layer is made - from a self-leveling building mixture. Together with the sides, it is also covered with a primer and waterproofing after drying, and this layer of moisture protection should be the most reliable. Experts recommend paying special attention to corners and the seam around the drain hole. It is important that the layer does not have "gaps" and gaps and is a solid coating.

• The sides of the pallet are traditionally made one brick high, however, depending on the desire, they can be made in a different size, not forgetting that the height of the fence should protect the room from water ingress and at the same time allow you to easily get under the shower.
• The sides can be laid out of brick or, having completed the formwork, make a poured concrete fence.

Gutter installation

In answer to the question “how to make a shower tray with your own hands”, the installation of a drain (or ladder) occupies a special place. It will be extremely difficult to correct problems after the construction of the pallet and cladding is completed, therefore it is very important to ensure high quality.

To do this, you must use the following rules and recommendations:

1. The connection of the drain to the sewer is carried out with a slope of about 3 °. This ensures an optimal flow rate and prevents clogging and stagnant water in the shower tray.
2. The joints of all elements must be sealed.
3. For installation, it is recommended to choose plastic pipes and fittings of the highest quality. They are able to serve for a very long time, because they are not subject to corrosion and destruction from other types of external influences.
4. The drain must be firmly fixed. The pouring of the base is carried out only after making sure that the structure will not move either at the time of pouring or in the process of gaining strength with a mortar.

Installation scheme

How to choose and install, read in another article.

Surface finishing

The lining of the inner and outer surfaces of the pallet is performed after the masonry mortar or concrete poured into the formwork has completely solidified. The tile will look great and hold securely, regardless of how the sides are made: you can make a do-it-yourself shower tray from brick or poured concrete.

The technology of laying tiles is no different from facing any other surface, however, it has its own nuances.

An adhesive designed for use in high humidity areas and a similar material for processing seams is selected.

To build a shower tray with your own hands, providing a beautiful flat surface and reliable protection against water penetration, you should not neglect the recommendations of experts.

1. Applying the adhesive with a notched trowel will help create a smooth surface.
2. The adhesive is applied to the surface to be coated, not to the reverse side of the tile.
3. To fix the tile, it should be pressed to the surface.
4. Level the surface easily by tapping the tiles with a rubber mallet.
5. Special crosses will help to ensure the equal thickness of all seams.
6. Paste the surface should be from the corner.

Do-it-yourself tile shower tray - photo with a sequence of cladding work

There are some nuances mosaic surface finishes. This cladding is considered by many to be more preferable than the classic tile. Both glass and plastic tiles are suitable for the pallet, as well as for the walls of the shower cabin. In addition to a large selection of ready-made mosaic sheets with a mesh or paper base, their advantages are ease of installation and a non-slip surface of the finished coating. No special tools are required for cutting - just use ordinary scissors.

All of the above rules for tiling are also valid for mosaic coating, however, in the latter case, there are some nuances:

• It is preferable to use white tile adhesive.
• Grouting and cleaning the surface must be done as quickly as possible, preventing the composition from drying out.

The general requirement for tiling or mosaic tiling is proper preparation of glue. It is important to strictly observe the proportions and uniformity of the composition recommended by the manufacturer. To ensure the latter condition, it is better not to stir the mixture manually, but to use a drill with a mixer nozzle. In order to avoid partial “setting” of the adhesive and, accordingly, a decrease in its quality, it is better to prepare the mixture in small portions.

A do-it-yourself tile shower tray is difficult to make with rounded edges, so the safety of the structure can be increased by installing special corners.

You can see how the mosaic of the shower tray is finished with your own hands in the video.

Recently popular shower cabins, equipped with the latest technological innovations, are fabulously expensive. But most people do not even know how to use all these devices. Many of those who have acquired their own housing, wanting to show their imagination, are increasingly wondering how to lay out a tile cabin with their own hands, because it is both easier and cheaper. Perhaps that is why recently, after repairs in the apartment, such a monolithic structure as a shower room made of tiles has increasingly begun to appear.

An independent device for a shower tray made of tiles has many obvious advantages, which include:

• significant savings in the family budget;
• the opportunity to show imagination to create a pallet of tiles of an unusual shape and the right size;
• choose tiling, in accordance with the design of the bath;
• the opportunity to take advantage of the self-selection of equipment that you consider necessary for a bathroom in your own apartment;
• the ability to select materials that are used in rooms with high humidity;
• the ability to make a custom-made shower enclosure, the installation of which will not create problems.

Types of pallets

Some do not bother arranging a tile pallet, but install finished products made of plastic - shower trays, especially since stores offer them in a large assortment. Those who are not satisfied with this option make them out of brick or pour concrete, and then lay the tiles. The design turns out to be capital, and not difficult to implement. If someone likes a shower room made of mosaic tiles without a pallet, then this is also possible. True, to implement this option, you will have to raise the floor level in the entire bathroom, but with a strong desire, this is quite feasible.

Material selection

In order to come to grips with the arrangement of the bathroom, it is desirable to think through everything to the smallest detail. So, first you need to write a list of materials needed for work. Even though shower trays are made of tiles, this is far from the only material that you may need for their arrangement.

It is necessary to decide what to make the foundation from. It is needed to ensure a sufficient slope in the drain pipe. The foundation is usually equipped with brick or concrete based on a cement-sand screed. It is also worth choosing the type of waterproofing. For this purpose, it is best to use liquid coating compositions that exclude the flow of water.

In addition, it is necessary to decide on the material for lining the shower cabin. For many, a mosaic for a makeshift shower has recently become the preferred choice. You will also need tile adhesive, it is best to use compounds designed for wet rooms. It is advisable to buy grout for joints with epoxy.

Stages of preparing a tile shower

Before you start arranging a tile shower, you will need to gradually prepare everything you need. To prevent high humidity from spoiling the bathroom, you need to take care of its waterproofing. The best option is to use the system that is used for swimming pools.

If the floor height is insufficient, it will not be possible to provide a good drain, which means that it is impossible to do without raising its level. This will require various materials, compositions and mixtures. If the walls of the shower cabin are supposed to be finished with mosaic tiles, then it will also need to be purchased. However, making a shower tray out of mosaic tiles is also a good idea.

Marking the site for the construction of the pallet

Before starting work related to changes in the bathroom or bathroom, a plan is developed. But first you need to measure the room and think over the water supply systems, the location of the drainage pipes and outline the place for the tile shower tray. It is advisable to mount it away from the front door and closer to communications, of course, if the size of the shower room allows it.

When shower cabins made of tiles are supposed to be placed in already equipped bathrooms, their location has to be linked to the existing water supply and drainage systems, which imposes some restrictions. When marking, you need to take into account the dimensions of the tile in order to minimize its trimming. Therefore, it will be necessary to mark the pallet so that an integer number of tiles or mosaic sheets fit on its bottom. It is easier to do this using the dry layout method. Fold the pallet out of bricks and tiles, not forgetting about the drain, lay the tiles taking into account the seams and fix the dimensions.

Preparatory stage

At this preparatory stage, you will need to bring the draft base into proper condition. To begin with, dismantle the existing tiled flooring. If the condition of the screed under the tiles leaves much to be desired, then it is advisable to fill it again. But even before laying the bottom screed, it will be necessary to ensure the waterproofing of the base of the shower tray by applying coating compositions. In addition to the floor surface, it is necessary to coat with a waterproofing composition and parts of the adjacent walls.

Ways to organize a drain in a shower stall

The drain in the shower from the tiles can be arranged in two ways: a path or a siphon with a tray. The ladder, of course, is expensive, but it is more reliable, and the small height allows you to hide it under the screed. The ladder is equipped with a special grate holder nozzle, which simplifies its installation. The price of a siphon is undoubtedly lower, but it quickly fails, therefore, when installing it, you need to think about how it can be replaced. Therefore, drowning it in a screed will not work. As for the drainage system, the water should flow through the pipes without stagnation. For this, pipes to the sewerage system are laid with a 5 cm slope. Approximately the floor surface should also be tilted to the drain point in order to ensure a uniform flow of water into the sewer.

Waterproofing and installation of a ladder

Before installing the ladder, the screed is primed again and coated with a waterproofing compound. Multi-layer primer and waterproofing of the shower tray prevent flooding of the premises located on the lower floors, and also protect other surfaces from high humidity.

Work on the installation of the ladder begins with the laying of pipes, which will need to be firmly fixed in the pallet to prevent their movement during the pouring of the screed. In this case, do not forget about the slope of the drainage system. If you install a pallet below the sewer drain, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to provide a slope of the required 3 °. You will need to raise the pallet so that the drainage is at the desired slope. Upon completion of the installation of the drain system, beacons are installed that indicate the level of the height of the space inside the pallet. With their help, you can make the desired slope of the pallet.

Arrangement of sides

To give the shower structure a certain shape, a side is erected around its perimeter, although some believe that you can do without it. The arrangement of the sides can be started after the screed has completely dried. For these purposes, bricks are usually used, thanks to their correct shape, the side turns out to be even, and its arrangement does not take much time. Most often, such a fence is made one brick high, but if desired, it can be made higher. However, do not forget that although the side is equipped to protect the room from water, but at the same time its height should not create inconvenience when getting up under the shower.

A fence for a homemade shower structure can be made of concrete. To form a concrete side, you will need to build a formwork from boards 4 cm thick, and then pour the concrete solution. According to the masters, at least ten days must pass from the moment of pouring until the complete drying of a concrete fence with a thickness of one brick, and only then the formwork can be removed. To prevent water from entering outside the shower, a rim with a slope inward should be formed, since the floor slope may not be enough.

Leveling and re-waterproofing

After the rough screed is completely dry, its surface will need to be treated with a waterproofing compound, for example, with ordinary bituminous mastic. Moreover, it is necessary to smear not only the floor, but also the laid out sides. Let the waterproof layer dry completely. Next step 5 - leveling the surface. On a dry surface, you will need to apply a self-leveling compound. The drain point must be smoothly rounded so that nothing interferes with the drain. Builder polymers in self-leveling mortars increase adhesion, so it is practical to cover the surface of the shower tray with them under the tiles.

Pallet lining

When the self-levelling compound on the tile shower tray is completely dry, you can proceed to finish the floor and walls. First, you should consider how best to lay the mosaic tiles in the shower. Here, by the way, you will have to lay a dry mosaic on the floor. With its help, you can think about how to lay mosaic tiles in the shower so that the cladding looks beautiful, and at the same time you have to cut fragments less often. Finishing the shower tray of the mosaic cabin starts from the floor. Tile adhesive is applied with a toothed adhesive and leveled over the surface.

After laying the tiles on the floor, the lining of the sides begins. And first, the finished mixture is applied to the side surfaces of the sides. Then they lay them with tiles and only after that they lay a layer of mortar on the upper surface of the sides. Here it is important to monitor the evenness of the cladding using a rule or building level. Often, the final result of the cladding largely depends on the final touches, so the grouting must be done especially carefully.

How to make a shower tray

If you decide to make a do-it-yourself tile shower tray from start to finish, then first of all you need to ensure the waterproofing of the wall and floor. To do this, you need to clean them and coat them with one of the waterproofing compounds. In addition, before you make a shower tray out of tiles, you will need thermal insulation of the base, for which foam can be used. Then the drain is assembled and installed, as well as the screed is poured to a height that allows you to lay the tiles in the shower flush with the drain of the drain. After the screed is completely dry, shower trays made of tiles are fenced around the perimeter with a side. Usually they are made of concrete and brick and lined with the same tiles.

from brick

Brick pallets are considered one of the simplest, but for their arrangement, the floor must be at least relatively flat. If there are large differences, they will need to be leveled with a rough screed. Having equipped the drain and connected it to the sewer, you can take up the pallet, adhering to the following work order:

1. Start with coating waterproofing of the base. Liquid glass, surface water repellent or bituminous mastic is suitable for it. To be sure of the reliability of waterproofing, it is better to apply the selected coating material twice.
2. Stick a waterproof tape at the junction with the wall. In this most vulnerable place, it is worth making a ten-centimeter tape run on the floor and wall.
3. Lay out the base of solid ceramic bricks.

Important! Silicate brick is not suitable for damp places. After all, the main components of which this brick is made of sand and lime do not differ in moisture resistance.

1. Lay tiles on tile adhesive on a brick base.
2. Seal tile joints with epoxy grout.

To create more comfortable conditions for receiving water procedures, when laying a brick tray for a shower cabin with your own hands from ceramic tiles, it is reasonable to lay cable mats for floor heating.

From monolithic concrete

The relevance of pouring a concrete pallet is especially noticeable in modest-sized bathrooms. And it lies in the fact that such a design of a home-made pallet can have any fantasy shape. And in such rooms, you often have to literally win every centimeter of free space. If in the first case ceramic brick is an uncontested material, then the concrete pallet can be poured with the following compositions:

• mortar from a cement-sand mixture;
• cement mortar, facilitated by the addition of expanded clay;
• semi-dry cement mortar.

Formwork is required for pouring concrete. It is more practical to knock it down from thick boards or scraps of fiberboard, OSB. It must be borne in mind that it is impossible to do without warming the concrete floor, otherwise you will have to turn on hot water in advance in order to get under the shower on at least relatively warm tiles.

To pour a concrete pallet, you will need to perform work in the following sequence:

1. We provide waterproofing of the base by carefully lubricating it.
2. In the places of docking with the walls we glue the waterproofing tape.
3. We lay sheets of expanded polystyrene for thermal insulation. At the joints of the sheets we glue reinforced tape.
4. With exposed beacons we form a drain.
5. The solution is laid out in layers. For half the height of the screed, we knead with a minimum amount of water. When laying out, we constantly pierce the thickness of the mortar with a trowel, it is useless to pull it.
6. For the second layer of the screed, we use a more liquid solution and level it using the rule.

After a day, we remove the beacons and wipe the traces with a solution. We give concrete to seize and gain strength. We apply coating compositions for waterproofing the surface and begin to tile.

Shower doors

Often showers with a tile tray are made of glass with a glass door. In this case, glass is used especially durable, tempered. Sometimes, after installation, a shower without a pallet lined with mosaic tiles is enclosed with frameless glass partitions and doors. Such frameless cabins are installed directly on the floor. In the design of the room where such a shower room is installed, the original plumbing looks very nice.

You can make a good shower tray with your own hands without special professional skills. Thus, you will save money that would go to a store-bought product and you will be sure of the quality of the design.

A pallet in the shower is needed so that the floor does not rot. You can buy it ready-made in the store, but they have several drawbacks. So, acrylic, for example, deteriorate very quickly, they are easy to scratch and after a while they turn yellow. Ceramic or marble pallets are considered durable, but their price corresponds to the quality. Made of steel - very noisy and if the enamel is chipped, they will rust.
The advantages of a pallet that is made by hand:

• long time of operation;
• ease of care and use;
• the ability to make a pallet of the necessary non-standard shape so that it fits into the bathroom;
• you can choose any design;
• relatively inexpensive cost of materials;
• pride in your work.

Pallet options

As a rule, most pallets have standard sizes, but there are deviations from the norm. It can be of two options: with equal sides and unequal. Equilateral pallets usually have dimensions of 80x80 cm, 90x90 cm, 1x1 m and 1.2x1.2 m. For structures with unequal sides, the dimensions are usually multiples of 10 mm. Size options: 10x120 cm, 90x120 cm, 100x150 cm. Therefore, you can choose a pallet for almost any bathroom or bath.

In addition to size, pallets also differ in shape. They are both angular and oval or rectangular. Corner ones are mounted in the corner of the room, and the rest can be placed where you want. There are also deep shower trays and low ones. Both the one and the other do a great job with their duties, the main thing here is ease of use.

For example, it will be more convenient for older people to use shower trays with low sides. But deep ones are usually placed in those booths that are large and are also designed for swimming in a semi-sitting position. Another difference between them is that low structures are installed in one place, so they stand there, and deep ones are installed on a metal frame and, if necessary, you can move it to get to hidden communications.

Homemade pallet device

A shower tray that is made at home usually has:

1. The base is concrete, on which lies ceramic tiles.
2. The wall, which is located on the outer contour, it serves as an obstacle to water.
3. Inside the base there is a ladder, it is designed to divert water into the sewer.
4. The bottom consists of a surface with four edges, there is a slope to the ladder.
5. The concrete base is treated with a special composition, which includes cement. This composition serves as a waterproofing.
6. The tiles are laid with a waterproof adhesive, and the seams are grouted.
7. It is advisable to put a double-folded roofing material along the walls of the room, thus limiting the contact of water with the floor.

Prior to the construction of the pallet

Before you make a shower tray, you need to install a water drain in the room, for this a shower ladder is installed and pipes are laid to the public sewer.
Pay attention to the floor in the bathroom, it must be as hard as possible. Preferably concrete. In general, if in the future it is necessary to install a shower stall with a tray in the bathroom, then during construction you need to immediately take care of a good concrete field. Because wooden floors in such rooms will not last long.
There are two ways to install a ladder:

1. Before pouring the base layer of the floor with concrete mix. In this case, it is easy to install the sewer in a hidden way; you need to carry out a drainage sewer under the floor of the room.
2. When the floor is ready. In this case, it may not be possible to hide the sewer pipes. Perhaps the pipe will be above the floor. In any case, you need to act according to the circumstances, if possible, then hide it, but if not, leave it on top.

Concrete shower tray

To create a pallet, you need to carry out the following work:

1. Install drain pipes and drain.

2. Lay the roofing material folded in half along the walls and make a screed. Choose a thickness such that even with ceramic flooring, the level of clean floors is preserved. And exactly according to the level, from the concrete screed, make the top of the finished case.

3. Walls to build from drywall with moisture resistance.

4. Install the formwork, take boards for it, the thickness of which is 4 cm, and lay a roofing material folded twice along its walls. All fixings and connections should be made with self-tapping screws and nails, steel corners. The formwork must be fixed very securely, otherwise, when poured with concrete, it may lose its shape.

5. When pouring concrete, it must be taken into account that the floor will be inclined towards the drain hole, and the protective walls of the pallet will also be erected.

6. Leave the pallet for a day, and when it grabs a little, you need to install more formwork boards, now for the construction of the walls of the fence. All wall parameters are selected individually by the owner.

7. Place the upper compaction sleeve into the drain and pour concrete into the wall formwork.

8. After a day, remove the formwork and tighten the bottom with tetrahedral surfaces, taking into account the inclination to the side of the drain. The slope is done approximately, in the future it will be possible to trim the floor with tiles and glue.

9. After the concrete has dried, you need to cut off the excess roofing material and treat the entire surface of the pallet with mastic and a primer.

10. Apply a layer of concrete contact on top of the waterproofing so that the adhesive sets better.

11. Make ceramic tiles with waterproof adhesive.

12. Seal the joints with water repellent grout.

13. To fit the drain grate to the tile, cut the sealing sleeve to the desired height.

14. Revet walls and floor in the same way and with the same tools and materials.

Facing the shower tray with tiles and mosaics

You can veneer the pallet with ordinary tiles, or you can use a mosaic, it looks much more spectacular.
Pallet materials:

1. Mosaic or floor tiles.
2. Putty knife.
3. Level
4. Roulette
5. Water repellent adhesive.
6. Bulgarian.
7. Construction knife.
8. Grout and crosses for seams.

Work progress:

1. Prepare the glue mixture. The exact proportions and recommendations should be viewed on the packaging from the manufacturer. And you can interfere with a drill with a special nozzle "mixer".
2. Tiles are laid from the corner. In order for the laying to be of high quality, the glue mixture must be applied with a spatula with teeth, then put the tile on the glue and press it down.
3. You can use a rubber mallet to adjust the level. They are tapped in different places on the tile. How even the seams are obtained can be determined with the help of crosses.
4. After you have laid all the tiles, apply a special water-repellent mixture to the joints. Prepare it in small portions and rub into the seams with a rubber spatula.
5. Rinse the entire tile with a damp cloth so that no grout remains on it. The reverse side of the spatula is designed to make all seams the same.
6. After all work is completed, you need to wipe the tile well again and wipe it dry.

A mosaic pallet looks very nice, especially if there are some other elements from it in the shower room. Mosaic can be made of plastic and glass. You can choose any for lining the pallet. But glue is better to choose only white. Mosaics, like tiles, also begin to be laid from one corner.

1. Apply glue with a spatula and attach the tile to the pallet. Press it a little, if there are glue residues, then they must be removed immediately.
2. Cut tiles and mosaics with a knife or scissors.
3. Rub the seams with the mixture and a rubber spatula. You need to do this quickly, and immediately wipe off the excess.
4. Wipe the mosaic with a damp cloth, rub dry.

The homemade pallet is ready, it remains only to install the shower cabin and you can use it.

A shower cabin cannot be functionally or aesthetically complete without a quality shower tray. This is understood by manufacturers of sanitary equipment, who regularly update their catalogs with more and more new models. But due to the increased demand, the price of pallets is by no means small - not every consumer can afford it. That is why an alternative option is becoming increasingly popular - building a pallet with your own hands. To implement such an undertaking is not difficult even for non-professionals. Don't believe? Then read how to make a tile pallet with your own hands and see photos confirming the availability of installation.

Preparatory stage

The first step is to determine the location and dimensions of the pallet. Choose a location, taking into account the features of the communication wiring. When considering the configuration and dimensions of the pallet, focus on several factors at once. The first is the composition of the family: it is important to calculate the height and width of the pallet in such a way that it is convenient to use the shower stall for all household members - from children to the elderly. The second is safety: the shape of the product should be streamlined, without too sharp corners. The third is the design and area of ​​the bathroom.

Advice. The standard pallet height is traditionally taken as the height of one brick laid horizontally.

When the design and organizational work is completed, proceed to the procurement of materials and tools. You will need:

• ladder;
• waterproofing material (mastic);
• cement and sand;
• bricks;
• ruberoid;

• adhesive composition for finishing;
• Master OK;
• spatulas: notched and rubber;
• grout;
• sealant;
• rubber mallet;
• brush;
• level and beacons;
• screwdriver, screws and dowels.

If for some reason the floor in your bathroom does not have an initial cement screed, it must be done even before the start of all construction work. At the same stage, heated floors are equipped, if necessary.

Waterproofing and installation of a ladder

The first step in the direct arrangement of the shower tray is waterproofing the site. First, several layers of roofing material are laid on the floor - it must close all the cracks in the areas where the floor and walls meet. Next, the site is treated with waterproofing mastic - it must be applied in an even layer, like a primer. And in the end, at the joints of the surfaces of the walls and the floor, you need to stick a waterproofing tape.

The next stage is the installation of a sewer ladder, which is responsible for drainage. Structurally, the drain consists of discharge pipes, a water intake funnel, various gaskets, seals, a grate and a siphon, which prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the bathroom. It is very important to securely fix each element in order to ensure the effective functioning of the water drainage system from the sump.

First, install the pipes on the already waterproofed floor, fasten them tightly and attach them to the bathroom sewer socket. Fill the site with cement screed and level it. When pouring cement, do not forget to ensure a slope towards the drain - at least 10 mm. For proper pouring, use beacons or guide rails.

Advice. Before pouring the second screed, seal the drain with mounting tape to protect the drain from getting concrete.

Arrangement of sides

When the screed is completely dry, proceed to the construction of the sides of the brick pallet. The laying mortar can be prepared from cement, sand and water in a ratio of 1:3:1. You also need to add a plasticizer - it is used for two purposes: to remove excess moisture from the solution and to increase the level of bonding of building materials to each other.

As for the brick, the use of both ordinary and silicate material is allowed. But experienced experts recommend using red brick for arranging the pallet - it is highly resistant to moisture, so it will last longer than any other type of material.

Before laying the brick on the base, you need to fix the metal mesh - it will strengthen the structure. Then proceed to the installation of the sides. When you lay out the brick structure of the required configuration and dimensions, leave it for two to three days. Whatever the shape of your pallet, the protruding corner of the sides should be slightly beveled: this way you will protect yourself from bumps and from constant touching of the structure when moving around the bathroom.

Leveling and re-waterproofing

The pre-finishing stage of the construction of the shower tray is the application of a self-leveling mixture and re-waterproofing.

After the brick sides are ready, and the binder is completely dry, apply a leveling mixture to the surface of the pallet. But do not overdo it with its thickness: after applying the mixture, the level of the site should be such that in the future the laid facing tile is located at the same height as the grate of the ladder. Also, do not forget to make a small recess in the drain area so that nothing prevents the free flow of water.

When the floor is dry, waterproof again: apply a thin layer of bituminous mixture on the surface and, if necessary, update the special tape at the joints of the wall and floor.

Advice. Do not neglect re-waterproofing - thanks to multi-layer protection, you will protect yourself not only from pallet deformation, but also from flooding your neighbors from below.

Pallet lining

An unconditional plus of self-construction of a shower tray is the ability to design the resulting structure exclusively to your liking. You can use tiles or mosaics of any shape and shade and in any combination. The main thing is that the selected finishing material is as moisture resistant as possible and has anti-slip properties.

Facing is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Prepare the glue mixture. Please note that some compositions deteriorate quickly, so it is better to knead them in batches.
2. Start laying the finish from the far corner of the pallet: with a notched trowel, apply the adhesive mixture to the tile, attach it to the work surface and lightly press down. Install the rest of the trim in the same way. To achieve the most even seams, insert special crosses between the tiles.
3. Check each tile with a level. After alignment, finally fix the lining by tapping it with a rubber mallet. Then remove any adhesive residue with a damp cloth.
4. After finishing the tiling, remove the crosses and process the seams - fill them with waterproof grout. Remove the remaining mixture with a dry cloth, and then carefully walk over the surface with a rubber spatula.
5. Treat all joints of the pallet and walls with sealant.
6. Close the corners of the boot with special silicone corners.
7. When the grout is dry, clean the tile.

In order for the pallet structure to dry out faster, try to keep the humidity level in the bathroom to a minimum: turn on forced ventilation or heating radiators, or simply open the doors of the room wide open.

Installing a tile shower tray is not a quick procedure, but it is absolutely feasible even for a non-professional. Be sure that if you do everything according to the instructions and with strict observance of the norms, you are guaranteed to receive not only a functional sanitary ware, but also an attractive piece of bathroom interior.

Shower tray: video

Do-it-yourself shower tray: photo

What is needed in order to make a shower tray in a building design in the bathroom? Such pallets are made of bricks, tiles, mosaics are laid on the bottom, a siphon is installed.

Here is our bathroom - an ordinary bathroom without any frills, measuring 2 meters by eighty meters, with budget tiles.

We will make the outer edges of the sides at the pallet 90 by 90 centimeters, so that later we can put a glass fence. Such fences, as a rule, have standard sizes - 90 centimeters, 1 meter, twenty meters. These are plans for the future, but for now we will do without a fence, that is, there will be just a tray, a shower, a mixer and some kind of curtain.

We will do the work according to our own technology - there will be no problems with waterproofing, because the tile itself is waterproofing, plus grouting. Yes, a little bit of water will seep through the cracks, through the pores in the grout, but when you wash, the water quickly drains from your pan and goes into the pipe.

Here in this place we will make a pallet.

What should you pay attention to? The main penetration of water occurs through the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pallet, it almost immediately flows from the walls to the center. It happens that the junction corners crack, so other craftsmen use various waterproofing tapes or mastics. We'll make it easier. We will first waterproof the base, then we will make a screed, that is, we will waterproof both the pallet itself and the base under it. In this case, the screed is made on a wooden base, that is, the layer is not very thick. Before making a screed, we cover the floor with a continuous layer of film 200 microns thick. A waterproof coating is formed under the base, plus the pallet is covered with a triple layer of Ceresit CR 65 waterproofing. It turns out two layers of waterproofing on top and bottom of the pallet, so that water will definitely not leak down.

Let's start composing.

We will make the sides of brick, then we will plaster and put floor tiles on top. We will close up the middle part of the pallet with such a mosaic - the most common Chinese mosaic 4 mm thick.

It is important to make the visible part of the mosaic practically without undercuts, so that later you do not suffer with trimming. We move it away from the wall by about 4 mm. This is necessary so that the next tile overlaps only the tip, and there is no half mosaic stub.

We lay out sheets of mosaic in order to correctly determine the center of the siphon and measure the sides.

The thickness of the side we get is about 6 cm. The whole part of the mosaic will be 86 cm. This means that our center of the siphon will be at a distance of 43 cm from the walls. We define the center.

Our siphon is the simplest, without any dry shutters, it occupies 5 by 5 squares of the mosaic. When we cut out 5 by 5 squares, we will get a mosaic not close to the siphon, but with a small gap of 3 mm. These 3 mm will go under the grout.

We determined the center of the siphon - 43 by 43 cm. We check the right angle.

It turns out here is such a design.

We make a mark with a pencil in the center and set the siphon at 45 ° to this place:

Here's what we got. We shortened the pipe a little. Now it is important to put the siphon exactly in the center and level it. We put plaster and fix the siphon in this position.

Checking the level.

It is very important that the sides are clearly level, then there will be no problems with the mosaic. Check if the water is draining. Everything is fine.

The edges of the pallet will be made of brick. The height of the siphon turned out to be 12 cm. The slope of the pallet from the edges to the siphon will be about a centimeter. That is, the height of the edge of the bowl will be 13 cm.

It is desirable to make this side smaller. We measure the borders, the total distance we will have is 86 by 86 centimeters. Then the mosaic will be laid out in almost whole chips.

We leave 1 centimeter to align the inner side, draw the side to the thickness of the brick.

We check the right angle, everything is clear.

We will lay the boards on tile glue. It is possible for a solution, but in this case we will increase the height of the side, which is undesirable. You can set the laser beam and clearly align the sides.

Can be leveled with a square.

Then it's all aligned with tiles and glue.

Here we have a rough side.

It didn't turn out very well, but that doesn't matter. Everything inside the pallet will be smeared, outside it will be plastered. After we make the central part of the pallet, in fact we will plaster exactly the same, measuring the size.

Since the screed is on a wooden base, it is not worth loading it much. We fill the pallet with expanded clay, leaving a margin of 1.5 cm, and spill it with milk to strengthen the surface.

There is only a small layer left. We will fill it with a monolithic screed, then we will waterproof it and prepare it for mosaics.

We fall asleep expanded clay and spill it with milk.

We level. From above we will smear with a thicker solution to get a fairly smooth base without large irregularities.

The work with expanded clay is completed. The mosaic should be above this ledge:

Then grout make a bowl with a slight slope. We will continue work tomorrow, when the solution sets.

Expanded clay is covered with us, spilled with milk. Before laying the tiles, we put additional waterproofing on the floor.

Today we will level the pallet bowl and leave it to harden until the next day. First, we plaster the outer side of the sides and lay the floor tiles.

We place beacons around the perimeter at a distance of about 2 cm from the edge to mark the height of the inner space of the pallet. You can put them close to the edge, but it is better to leave a place so that it is more convenient to lubricate. We make lighthouses 1 cm high. The slope inside the bowl from the edges to the center will be 1 cm.

We will fill with a solution of 1 to 3, that is, one part of cement to three parts of sand, with a hydrophobic additive. We will also smear with tile adhesive so that the mortar sticks to the old layer. Otherwise, after pouring, it may peel off, since its thickness is only 2 centimeters. We will use the same glue on which we laid the brick.

We measure the dimensions of the beacons. Set the perimeter.

Apply tile adhesive. We direct and fill the solution. This is how we spread the glue.

We spread the solution with a trowel immediately over the entire surface. Cement does not harden immediately, it can be leveled.

Align the solution.

It is not necessary to do very carefully yet. We only need a plane, because the next day there will be a lot of fine-tuning operations.

We have a descending plane. It is important that the bowl turned out without corners, smoothly curved. This is necessary so that there are no problems with laying the mosaic. After 5-6 hours we will pull out the beacons, we will grind the plane, we will prepare it for waterproofing. Then we'll do the waterproofing.

Here is what we ended up with:

The rough surface is ready, the plane is aligned. Mosaic does not like irregularities - there should not be a single hole.

We plaster the outer sides. The main thing here is to maintain a right angle.

We lay the floor, tear out the beacons.

We overwrite. We close up the finish plane.

With a fresh solution, it is imperative to ensure that these lines are absolutely even:

Let there be a slight slope, it happens, but it’s bad if it turns out to be an arc. After mashing, you need to wait until everything hardens, and at the end of the day clean it up.

We do the other sides in the same way.

Here is the end result:

We check the connection from all sides.

We clean everything superfluous from the walls, otherwise, when it dries, we will have to hammer.

We plaster the inner edge already taking into account in order to place the mosaic without any undercuts. After plastering the inner edge, we will make waterproofing.

This is how we set it, orient it:

It makes no sense to waterproof the top, little water gets there. All the water drains into the center, and there is waterproofing under the screed, waterproofing under the pallet plus worn tiles. This technology is enough. When the walls are monolithic, with monolithic plaster, there can be no cracks, there is simply nowhere for water to seep through.

Before laying the waterproofing, check everything like this with your hands:

The hand is a very sensitive element, you will immediately feel any hole. If there are any irregularities, you can go through with a spatula, putty with tile adhesive, let dry, then sand.

Let's do waterproofing. We check how the water flow works - we spill it with water.

The surface must be moistened, it must be damp, but not wet.

We make waterproofing sufficiently liquid. It is better to put more thin layers so that there are no sagging.

The first layer was laid, we work with a brush strictly in one direction, in parallel. We are waiting for the layer to dry, the color will turn white. Lay the second layer perpendicular to the first. We stand for a day, moisten the dried spread and after that we put the third layer. The total thickness of the coating must be at least 1 mm.

If the waterproofing dries quickly, this is bad, because it becomes not very durable. It is advisable to moisturize it for a couple of days before styling, then it will be matte.

You can do this work not only with a brush, but also with a spatula. However, a spatula can make various irregularities, sagging, so it is better not to use it.

It took two days, during which we moistened our waterproofing. The surface is ready for laying the mosaic. We pass it with a spatula.

Here, we vacuumed, washed the siphon, the junctions. Now let's lay the tiles.

Now we will lay the mosaic. Here is our pallet to work with:

What tools will we need? Firstly, a notched trowel with 4 mm teeth, and secondly, something like a grater.

The plane is wet, we moistened it for two days. We smear it with glue under the mosaic.

There shouldn't be any overflows. Glue needs a medium consistency, closer to liquid. We start to smear from the center.

We put a sheet of mosaic with a hole cut out under the siphon, we make sure that the gap is the same on all sides. We rub it with a grater.

We use a simple Russian ladder, so there is a gap.

In this case, you can cut the mosaic, but it is better to make an envelope with grout. Drains from more famous brands, such as Viega, are good because they are sized almost exactly to the cutout. With a tape measure, we measure how accurately we put the mosaic from the edges.

It happens that the chips themselves on the grid are glued crookedly.

Now put on the glue the remaining sections of the mosaic. The seams between the sections are best done with a shift relative to each other, so that small differences in size are not too conspicuous.

Here is the mosaic in full:

If somewhere between the chips the gap turned out to be too small or too large, they can be moved a little. We leave the glue to dry, at the end of the day we wash the seams with a coarse brush.

Now let's cut the tiles. We put the tile and look at the gap. We number the tiles. After we cut them all, we lay them out.

The gap may not be the same height everywhere. The difference can be 2–2.5 mm, but after grouting, this difference will be almost invisible to the naked eye.

Here we put a wall connection to the mosaic. Small gaps turned out, all this will be overwritten. Now we wash this part and leave it to dry until the next day. The next day we will overwrite the main field.

At the end of the day, when the glue has already hardened, we wash the tiles and mosaics again.

Since the grout we will have is light, the glue on it will not stand out much. If the grout is of a different color, darker, you will have to rinse all the cavities under the grout. In this case, some kind of brush with a hard bristle is taken, and the surface is washed along the seams, first in one direction, then in the other.

Thus, we pass the entire plane. Let it dry until the next day. Tomorrow it will be clear if there is glue left somewhere, it can be slightly scratched with a knife.

Now cut the tiles.

Floor tiles are laid on the outer edge of the board. It is more wear resistant. It happens that they put a wall if they want to achieve a match in color. We have everything in common.

Trimming the tiles under the burr at an angle of 45 ° is done on a “wet cut”. First, we make a drink, not reaching the edge of the glaze, and then we finish it with a “grinder”.

This is how the “wet cutter” cuts at an angle of 45 °.

Here is the resulting cut:

We will process this cut with a “grinder”, not reaching the edge of the glaze 1 mm. We take the “grinder” and grind off the back of the tile for the bite.

We have a much sharper angle than 45°.

What is it for? This is necessary so that when joining two tiles, the cuts do not rest against each other with their bases. This seam will fray.

Here's a snippet:

We start laying with the last tile.

Here we put it no longer on liquid glue, but on a thick enough one, which allows you to properly press down the tile and prevents it from fidgeting.

Try to keep the seams parallel and match the pattern on the tile.

On the corner tile, the bar is made not only on the top, but also on the side.

Here is the entire outer edge of the bead:

We leave it to dry. We will put the inner one the next day. It is important to maintain the parallelism of the board. No one will see any irregularities inside, especially if there is a fence, and from above they can appear. This line must be kept parallel.

The next day. We begin to lay the second board. It is important that the seams fit together.

Try to maintain this width:

We lay out the tile and leave it to dry for 3-4 hours.

Try to lay the tiles so that they match each other in color and pattern.

We have already completed the zausovka, the tile is ready, it remains to lay it. The only difficulty with the stitching will be here, because there are no factory edges.

We lay the tiles.

Here's what happened in the end:

It is impossible to maintain the ideal size, in some places the tile converges with a “bird”, because it has an arcuate shape in these places.

It is very important that there are no steps at the junctions of adjacent tiles.

Now the brick quickly enough, within an hour, will absorb moisture. We cut out the template according to the thickness of the tile with a layer of glue and with this template we stretch the entire top with tile adhesive.

Here is our template, cut from regular wall tiles:

It is placed here and stretched, as if on rails:

The depth of the template is 1 cm because the floor tiles used are 8 mm thick plus a 2 mm adhesive layer. Thoroughly coat the top with glue so that there are no gaps. Some plaster it, but this is not the best option.

Here is the fully stretched board:

The layer turned out to be about 1.5 cm thick. Before laying tiles on it, it is necessary to withstand it until the next day or at least 2–2.5 hours so that it thickens and does not shrink much.

The next day came.

After the broach, the support dried up. We have already cut out all the necessary elements in advance.

We tried to match the tiles by color so that the dark one matches the dark one, and the light one matches the light one. Tiles can be laid in different ways. You can lay it close, or you can lift it up and repeat the side seams. We will make a small seam, lift it up, insert the wedges. Too large a seam does not look very good, as well as grout with a thickness of 2.5–3 mm. Epoxy still looks good, but we'll be grouting with regular cement grout, so we'll make a reasonable compromise. It remains for us to lay the tile, wipe it - and the pallet will be almost ready.