Insulation of the subfloor in a wooden house. Insulation under wooden floors

Heat loss is not always related to the thermal conductivity of the material, very often the reason for this is the different temperatures in the basement and on the ground floor of the house. Thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house prevents heat leakage, thereby reducing heating costs. High-quality floor insulation in a wooden house can be done with the right choice of insulation.

This is what an insulated floor looks like in a section

Why is it necessary to insulate the floor in wooden houses

It is very rare to find wooden houses with high-quality thermal insulation of the floor, which ensures a comfortable stay even in severe frosts. In most cases, a cold floor is a fairly common phenomenon in wooden buildings.

This happens according to the laws of physics from the school course, according to which heavier cold air accumulates below. The lack of thermal insulation on the floor or a violation of the insulation process causes cold bridges between the dried boards.

This phenomenon contributes to the loss of almost a quarter of thermal resources.

Video description

Clearly about the feasibility of floor insulation in the video:

Based on this, it is safe to say that the insulated wooden floor eliminates the following problems:

Increased indoor humidity.

Low temperature inside the building.

The accumulation of condensate, which is the cause of the formation of mold.

The appearance of harmful microorganisms.

The formation of rot inside wood structures.

The combination of these factors encourages the homeowner to insulate the wooden floor, and to do the job in accordance with all the rules.

Laying thermal insulation in interfloor ceilings

The result of the actions taken will be a comfortable and cozy stay, and most importantly, the leakage of thermal resources and the corresponding costs will decrease. Thermal insulation can be carried out not only in old buildings, but also in commissioned buildings.

How to choose the right thermal insulation material

Owners of private buildings often wonder if they need floor insulation in a wooden house, which one is better to buy to get the best effect. The selection of material for this purpose can be called a rather crucial moment, so it is important to adhere to the following:

Weight of materials. It makes little sense for owners of private wooden houses to take into account this characteristic, since their houses themselves do not create a large load on the foundation tape or pillow. It is necessary to know the mass of the material only when working in multi-storey buildings, where too heavy insulation will exert an additional load on the floor slabs.

Moisture resistance. Most often, this criterion is looked at when they are finishing “wet” rooms - a bathroom or kitchen. It is also necessary to focus on it when building a house in latitudes with a humid climate.

Operating period. This parameter directly affects how many times and after what time the homeowner will carry out work related to the repair or replacement of the floor.

On the packaging of quality and certified materials, their full characteristics are always indicated.

Thermal conductivity index. The lower the value of this parameter, the more heat will remain in the house.

The degree of complexity of laying the material. Every master dreams of simplified installation work, therefore, the simpler the installation of insulation, the better.

The presence of a basement or basement. If there is an unheated room under the insulated floor, then it is important to choose a thicker thermal insulation.

Ceiling height. Laying insulation is always accompanied by a decrease in usable space, so in rooms with low ceilings it is better to opt for thinner insulation.

Features of use. Permanent or temporary residence also determines the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Fire resistant. It is very important that the heat-insulating material is resistant to fire or at least does not support combustion. In addition, it should not emit harmful gases when heated.

In our catalog, you can find a list of companies of companies specializing in finishing materials and works, among the houses presented at the exhibition Low-rise Country.

Popular types of thermal insulation materials

Ease of use is one of the most important criteria for choosing materials. Some of them are solid and can only be used on flat surfaces, while others are also successfully used for thermal insulation of areas of complex shape. Before insulating the floor in a wooden house, you should choose the most suitable type of insulation.

When choosing a material, it is necessary to take into account the conditions under which it will have to be laid.

Heaters in rolls

In this form, heaters are supplied, the basis of which is cork or mineral wool. The physical characteristics of these materials (softness and reduced density) make it possible to lay thermal insulation without much difficulty, not only on a perfectly flat surface. Roll insulation can be laid with the least number of butt joints, which increases the degree of thermal insulation. In most cases, this type of insulation is afraid of high humidity, so when laying it, you should take care of waterproofing. Sometimes roll materials have an outer foil layer that protects the material from moisture.

Rolls are easy to unwind on a flat surface

Plate materials

These are lightweight slabs or insulation mats that can not change shape during installation. They are characterized by low thermal conductivity and low weight. Easily mounted on the surface with minor errors.

Tiles can be installed alone

Liquid polymer thermal insulation

This type is a special formulation that forms a solid foam structure when exposed to air. With the help of such thermal insulation, all hard-to-reach places and errors are filled. Among the well-known representatives of this type of insulation, penoizol can be distinguished, which is applied to the surface from a can using a special sprayer. The only drawback of liquid heaters can be called a high price.

Liquid insulation sticks to any surface

Loose thermal insulation

This type of insulation is represented by such bulk materials as slag, expanded clay or sawdust. They fill the prescribed volume quite tightly, while laying is possible both on a pre-equipped base and on ordinary soil.

When using such heaters, it will be necessary to install additional beams for a finishing coating and, as a result, raise the floor level.

When choosing a method of insulating wood flooring, one should be guided by the efficiency of the use of the material and the material benefit.

Least effort on flat surfaces

Popular materials for wood flooring insulation

Usually you don’t have to look for a long time for the best way to insulate the floor in a wooden house - in building stores there is a large selection of various materials and all that remains is to choose the right one, starting from their characteristics.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene

In addition to good thermal insulation, one of the main characteristics of these materials is their vapor impermeability, so it is most effective to use them for warming the floor of the first floor or basement. Under normal conditions of mid-latitudes, it is enough to use slabs 5-13 cm thick. If you take thinner slabs, then over time, the savings will be covered by increased heating costs.

Work with foam

Mineral wool

The properties of this material do not allow its use in floor screeds on the ground. But wooden floors, insulated with mineral wool, can boast an increase in service life. It is recommended to insulate the floor between the basement and the first floor with a material whose thickness is 20-30 cm. Higher floors are insulated with materials 10-15 cm thick.

Video description

The procedure for working with mineral wool on the video:

Ecowool

The material is produced from shredded waste paper and cardboard packaging with further impregnation with flame retardants and antiseptics. Ecowool cannot be used for ground insulation due to its low density, but for beam slabs, the material is considered the best option. In this case, the thickness of the floor insulation in a wooden house can be 20-25 cm.

Backfilling of ecowool

Foamed polymers

The main difference is the high cost compared to other heaters. The use of this insulation on the floor and ceilings along the beams cannot be called effective. Therefore, it is best to use foamed polymer heat-insulating materials for thin-layer structures for floor coverings.

Before installing the finished floor

Foam glass

The material is obtained by foaming quartz sand. The mass of such a heater is much less than that of a dry tree. The main advantages of the material are good vapor barrier properties, the ability to withstand heavy loads without changing shape and losing quality characteristics, as well as good sound insulation.

Foam glass is produced in slabs that can withstand the weight of a heavy vehicle, or in granules for backfilling wooden floors.

The standard density of the material is 150kg/m³, which makes it possible to use it for insulation of the basement and ceilings located above. In this case, the thickness of the thermal insulation should be respectively 18 cm and 15 cm.

Foam glass plates

Expanded clay

Recently, this insulation has become much less used due to the appearance on the construction market of more efficient thermal insulation materials. Some characteristics require an increase in the thermal insulation layer by 4-6 times compared to stone wool or ecowool. Overlapping along the beams cannot always accommodate such a volume of insulation.

Expanded clay needs a lot of space

Fiberboard

This type of insulation is obtained by mixing cement powder, liquid glass and wood wool. The advantage of such thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house is the ability to dampen noise of various origins, as well as significant heat retention when gluing the load-bearing walls of the house with this type of insulation. The high hygroscopicity of the material limits its use in floors on the ground, but it is ideal for insulating floors along beams and for creating multi-layer pies of wooden structures. The insulation of the floors between the basement and the first floor is carried out with a layer of 15 cm, for the upper floors 10 cm of insulation is sufficient.

Fiberboard

Sawdust

Such insulation cannot be called the most effective way to insulate residential premises, since in order to reduce heat loss it is necessary to lay a layer with a thickness of at least 30 cm. Therefore, sawdust is most often used in non-residential attic spaces. Recently, sawdust has been used in the production of highly effective thermal insulation and materials with similar characteristics.

Leveling the layer of sawdust

Izolon

This thermal insulation, obtained from polyethylene foam, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity even with a thickness of 0.2-1 cm. This quality makes the material indispensable for insulating a wooden floor. Among other advantages, good sound insulation can be noted, which makes it unnecessary to lay additional soundproofing layers. When using isolon, laying is mandatory not end-to-end, but with an overlap of the strips, the resulting seams are treated with polymer glue or bituminous mastic.

Rolls of Izolon

Penofol

The material is a roll insulation of a new generation. This lightweight and easy-to-use material provides shielding to prevent radiant energy from dissipating. Heat preservation occurs due to the reflective layer, which makes the material especially popular when insulating the floor between floors. Among the advantages are the ability to resist heavy loads, low thermal conductivity and easy installation.

The thickness and flexibility of Penefol allows it to be used in difficult places.

Comparing the properties and features of use, we can conclude that for wooden elements it is better to choose vapor-permeable materials, and in other cases, use high-density heaters.

The procedure for the installation of thermal insulation

Before insulating the floor in a wooden house, it is important to familiarize yourself with the general rules for the work.

Video description

First of all, you need to understand what you can’t do - clearly about it in the video:

And the process of warming is as follows:

First you need to remove the baseboard and remove the old floor. In this case, care must be taken not to buy new material.

Open floor beams are inspected for rotten elements that must be replaced. It is best to fasten new wooden parts with galvanized self-tapping screws that are not subject to corrosion.

The support beam is best fastened from the bottom of the log.

The rough flooring is made of unedged boards, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the lags or 2 cm less than this parameter. The rough floor is not laid closely, and the beam can be omitted from the elements of this coating.

Houses located in areas with a high level of groundwater very often suffer from high humidity, with all the ensuing consequences. Therefore, it is very important to protect the floors with roofing felt or glassine. The waterproofing strips are overlapped, gluing the joints with adhesive tape.

Insulation is laid on top of the finished floor log. In addition, another layer of waterproofing is needed.

To create a ventilation gap, counter rails are nailed over the insulation.

The final step is laying the new flooring.

Final floor finish

Whatever material or technology is used, first of all, one should always remember that a high-quality result can be obtained only if the technology of work is strictly observed.

A wooden house requires especially careful thermal protection, because if the temperature and humidity conditions are violated, the wood begins to rot and lose its strength characteristics. An effective heater will help prevent this. Before starting work on protection from the cold, it is necessary to figure out how to competently insulate the floor in an individual wooden house.

Why insulate a wooden floor

Compared to concrete, wood is a fairly warm material, but when building a frame private house or a house from a bar with your own hands, it is not always possible to achieve a rational balance of the thickness of the structure in terms of strength and thermal conductivity. To reduce the consumption of materials for walls and foundations, thermal insulation is necessary. It is possible to carry out work on insulation both in an old building put into operation long ago and in new construction.

Floor insulation in a wooden house can prevent the following problems:

• the appearance of excessive dampness in the room;
• decrease in temperature in the task;
• condensation, which results in mold;
• the appearance of fungus and other microorganisms dangerous to humans;
• increase in heating costs;
• destruction of wooden structures from the inside.

By doing the work yourself, you can significantly reduce costs. Now there are many materials, the use of which does not require special skills and high qualifications.

Scheme of all heat losses of a wooden house.

Which floors require insulation

The following structures need protection:

1. cold cellar floor cake;
2. attic floor;
3. interfloor construction.

In the case of an interfloor option, the material is used as sound insulation. In this case, it is necessary to provide a layer 3-5 cm thick.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house allows you to provide comfortable living conditions. Most heat loss occurs through the ceiling of the upper floor, so it is necessary that the thermal insulation is selected and laid correctly.

Materials for work

To competently insulate the floor in a wooden house, you need to choose a high-quality insulation that has all the necessary properties. Warming can be carried out both from the inside of the room and from the side of cold air.

For do-it-yourself insulation of the attic floor from the inside or the basement from the bottom, it is better to use lightweight materials that can be easily fixed from below to the ceiling pie. In this case, it would be correct to apply:

• mineral wool in rolls;

These materials will provide maximum convenience when insulating the ceiling with your own hands.

When insulating a frame house, a house made of timber or logs, work can be carried out from the inside of the room for the floor of the first floor and from the outside for the last one. In this case, it is better to carry out floor insulation along logs or beams, since this will prevent the transfer of load to fragile material. For this type of work, you can use the following materials:

More information about insulation with sawdust and expanded clay can be found in the articles and. These materials have such advantages as natural origin and low cost, so if you need to reduce construction costs or insulation in an old building and ensure complete environmental friendliness, it is better to use them. However, they are less technologically advanced than other materials.

Recently, the method is also gaining popularity. This method is good for its low labor intensity and high efficiency.

floor insulation technology

It is important to properly lay the insulation in compliance with the competent order of all layers. The floor pie when insulating the attic floor, the floor of the second floor or the first floor has not always noticeable, but significant differences.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from below

In this case, when doing do-it-yourself work, the materials should be correctly laid in the following order:

1. waterproofing;
2. insulation;
3. vapor barrier;
4. cover structure.

When building a house from a bar or frame, the material is fixed along the beams. Then the stitching is done. As a protection against moisture and steam, you can use a regular plastic film. As a second option for waterproofing, moisture-proof membranes are used. If all the layers are laid correctly, the structure will be reliably and competently protected from the cold from the point of view of heat engineering.

This method is very laborious and is used only if there is no possibility of warming from the inside.

Also, the method is perfect for warming from below.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from the inside

It is quite inconvenient to carry out work under the ceiling, therefore, when erecting a frame house or a building from a bar, they often perform insulation of the floor of the first floor along the beams from above. In this case, in addition to the previously given materials, loose materials such as sawdust and expanded clay can be used. When carrying out insulation with your own hands, it is correct to lay all layers in the following sequence:

1. floor structure;
2. waterproofing;
3. insulation;
4. vapor barrier;
5. clean floor.

The vapor barrier must be placed from the inside of the room, so it will work correctly, preventing damage to the ceiling along the beams from the timber.

Interfloor insulation

In the first case, the insulation dampens airborne noise: human speech, music, etc. In the second case, the structure is also perfectly isolated from impact noise - steps, jumps, etc.

Proper sound insulation of interfloor ceilings is the key to a comfortable stay for all family members.

Insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor from the inside

Installation of insulation from the inside does not provide maximum protection for structures, but it can be used as a second option for laying insulation. In this case, the insulation is mounted along the beams from the bottom of the ceiling. It will be correct to arrange the layers in this order:

1. vapor barrier;
2. insulation;
3. waterproofing;
4. beam roof construction.

Attic floor insulation

When building and repairing a frame house, a house made of timber or logs, it is better to insulate the attic from above. This method has the following advantages:

• ease of installation;
• the possibility of using inexpensive bulk materials;
• competent thermal protection;
• warming not only the premises, but also the ceilings along the beams of a house made of timber or frame;
• prevention of condensation in the thickness of the ceiling.

To ensure proper protection, the layers are stacked in the following order from bottom to top:

1. floor structure;
2. vapor barrier;
3. thermal insulation material;
4. waterproofing.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

To perform a full-fledged thermotechnical calculation of the structures of a frame house or a building made of timber, it is not necessary to have a construction education. When performing the calculation, it is important to know the thicknesses of all layers of the cake and their thermal conductivity. It's easy enough to find out.

The calculation will allow you to perform competent insulation of the house from a bar and prevent overspending of materials. All calculations, taking into account the search for initial data, are unlikely to take more than half an hour. Usually such layers as waterproofing, vapor barrier are not taken into account.

A competent choice of the method of insulation, the type of material and its thickness can save you from many problems during operation. When building multi-storey residential buildings, the question of insulation does not arise: it is required. The correctness of the selection of thickness and the availability of measures for thermal protection of the floor, attic floor and walls are checked by an examination, which considers these calculations on an equal basis with strength calculations.

In private housing construction, no one checks the presence of competent insulation, but this does not make it less important.

Good thermal insulation reduces heat loss by 20–40%, and in some cases even more. At the same time, a properly selected floor insulation in a wooden house not only reduces heating costs, but also directly affects the microclimate in the rooms. You need to know how to pick it up. Do you agree?

You will learn all about the thermal insulation options that are acceptable for arranging a wooden floor from the article we have proposed. We will tell you what criteria affect the choice and how to take them into account. Our recommendations will help to competently equip the lower floor in a structure made of timber or logs.

There is no universal thermal insulation material for all cases. To insulate each structure in a private house (foundation, load-bearing walls, ceiling), you should choose your best option.

And even in the same cottage, floors in different rooms often have to be insulated with different thermal insulation. The requirements for thermal conductivity of floors in them often differ.

The choice of floor insulation strongly depends on the design of the floor, as well as the type of rooms below and above - if one of them is not heated, then the number of suitable thermal insulation options is sharply reduced

It is necessary to distinguish between floors in a wooden house between:

• basement and first floor;
• residential floors.

In the second case, insulation is usually not produced. Above and below are heated rooms with approximately the same microclimate parameters. It is not required to separate them from each other with additional thermal insulation.

But the floor above the basement will have to be insulated in a wooden house in any case. And it doesn’t matter if the basement is used in any way or the wind is blowing from below between the supports of the pile foundation.

Only the version of the insulation and its thickness will change. But you will have to lay the thermal insulation anyway, otherwise the heat loss through the non-insulated ceiling will be quite noticeable.

The floor in a wooden house on the ground floor is mounted:

• on the ground;
• along the lags or on the screed;
• along the beams.

The first option is usually used with a low strip foundation. The second - with a foundation base in the form of a monolithic slab. And the third - in all other situations.

And in each case, the insulation should be selected individually. For example, it is impossible to put mineral wool on the ground, it will quickly dampen and deteriorate during such installation.

When using a heater, the subfloor must be well ventilated, otherwise the heat-insulating material itself, as well as the wooden floor logs and the crown of the log house in contact with it, will begin to deteriorate from the condensate

The main reason for the damage to the "pie" of the insulated floor on the ground floor above the basement is excess moisture. The heat insulator and the structure of such a floor in a private wooden house are affected by moisture from the ground and the condensate formed due to temperature changes, as well as water spilled during cleaning.

Polymer waterproofing films are used to protect the insulation. But if the floor insulation system is arranged without ventilation, then films that interfere with the free removal of condensate can even do harm. When the insulation gets wet, it will lose its insulating characteristics, and it will become an excellent breeding ground for the fungus.

Possible materials for insulation

There is an incredible amount of heaters on the domestic market. But not all of them are suitable for a low-rise house made of logs or timber.

On the one hand, one should take into account the compatibility of the selected heat-insulating material and the wood from which the residential building was built. And on the other hand, do not forget about the environmental friendliness of all building materials used.

The main advantage of a cottage made of wood is environmental friendliness. Insulate the floor in it with synthetics should only be a last resort.

Among the variety of heaters for a wooden house are recommended:

• stone wool;
• cellulose-based ecowool;
• expanded clay;
• sawdust;
• fibrolite.

Also, in some situations, you can use. But it is best to do without this material, preferring a more environmentally friendly insulation from the list above.

Option #1 - stone mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from fiberglass, slag from blast furnaces and rocks. In wooden houses, it is worth using the last of these types - cotton wool insulation made from basalt fibers. It is the safest for humans and environmentally friendly - there are practically no synthetic binders in it.

Stone wool has:

• low thermal conductivity 0.034–0.04 W / (m * K);
• excellent vapor permeability;
• good noise reduction.

Basalt insulation is not subject to decay, does not burn and can easily withstand heating up to 700 ° C without loss of performance.

It is necessary to insulate a residential cottage with glass wool only from the outside. This type of mineral wool is distinguished by the fragility of glass fibers, which cause irritation when dropped on the skin and mucous membranes.

Option #2 - cellulose ecowool

This material is environmentally friendly, resistant to mold and incombustible. In the manufacture of ecowool, cellulose (waste paper production) is impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Fire and fungi are not afraid of her. At the same time, this heat-insulating material can absorb moisture up to 15% of its own weight.

Also, ecowool cannot be mounted near the bases of root chimneys, the foundations of stoves and fireplaces. Under the influence of high temperatures, cellulose will smolder. Due to the abundance of flame retardants, it will not light up. But the gradual smoldering of paper will inevitably thin the insulation layer and lead to an increase in heat loss.

The main disadvantage of ecowool is its high moisture absorption - if such a heater is not dried by ventilation, then it will quickly lose its thermal insulation properties.

Option #3 - sawdust

If you want to get the most environmentally friendly housing, then in a wooden cottage you can use sawdust. They are poured in a compacted layer 10-40 cm thick between the lag, which gives a fairly high-quality insulation without any chemistry.

Sawdust is the cheapest of the existing heaters. They are tested by time and long practice. However, this material, like any wood, is flammable. Whether it is worth adding flammable fuel to a potential fire in a wooden house is an open question.

Option # 4 - expanded clay

The second line in terms of cheapness after sawdust can be deservedly given to expanded clay. This insulation is made from fired clay. It is in the form of granules with many air-filled voids inside.

Of the minuses of expanded clay, only its high hygroscopicity is worth mentioning. If the expanded clay granule is split, then it will absorb water like a sponge. Without an underlying waterproofing in the form of a thick polyethylene film, such insulation cannot be poured.

Expanded clay is ideal for floor insulation on the ground. It is also often used when arranging an insulated concrete screed, pouring it from below or using it as a filler for a mortar.

Option #5 - Styrofoam

This material is presented on the market by foam plastic and slab (EPS). If you take it, then for floor insulation only the second option is extruded polystyrene foam. It is denser and absorbs moisture much less.

Styrofoam and wood are often called antagonists. The first does not let moisture through, and the second, on the contrary, absorbs it well and then releases it to the air.

However, with proper installation, XPS and polystyrene can be combined with wooden structures. It is only necessary to leave a gap between the polystyrene foam insulation and the wood for ventilation so that condensate does not accumulate there.

The main disadvantages of EPPS are flammability with the release of harmful gases and low vapor permeability. Even the presence of additives does not save this insulation from open fire, and the impermeability of water vapor does not allow the wooden floor to breathe

Option #6 - Fiberboard

Fiberboard is made from wood shavings and cement. This is an excellent insulation, which is not yet very widespread in Russia.

Fiberboard is characterized by a rather high hygroscopicity. It dries quickly, which, however, is possible only in conditions of good ventilation. It is a non-flammable, harmless to humans, non-rotten and breathable heat insulator. Just don't let it get wet and frozen.

Fiberboard has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics. This is a high-quality and durable insulation that cannot be used only when laying the floor directly on the ground.

Choosing the best insulation

If you need the most environmentally friendly material, then the choice should be stopped on sawdust, expanded clay or fiberboard. Basalt wool is also ready to give a serious head start to expanded polystyrene in this regard.

If the house is located on a wet area with a high GWL, then EPPS should be preferred when insulating the floor - due to its resistance to moisture, it will last longer in the basement than other options

The floors in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen are also recommended to be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. These rooms are characterized by high humidity. The more moisture resistant insulation is used in them or under them, the longer such material will last.

However, if the ventilation in the subfield is well organized, then ordinary mineral wool can also be used.

For comparison, the table below shows the main characteristics of heaters:

When choosing the better to insulate the floor in a wooden house, you should compare the available options by:

• thermal conductivity;
• vapor permeability;
• combustibility;
• environmental friendliness;
• durability (resistance to moisture and fungus);
• price.

The lower the thermal conductivity of the insulation, the better it is. Vapor permeability affects its ability to breathe and conduct condensate to the outside.

Expanded clay and sawdust are considered the cheapest heat insulators. More expensive - fiberboard, ecowool and EPPS.

The following article will acquaint you with the diagrams of the installation of the floor insulation system, built along the logs.

When choosing a heater for the floor, you should focus on the features of the room to be insulated, the type of foundation and the available budget.

In most cases, the best option is environmentally friendly and non-combustible basalt mineral wool. But if the floor is settled on the ground, then it is better to use expanded clay. And if the basement has high humidity, then preference should be given to expanded polystyrene.

Tell us about how you insulated the floor in a wooden building with your own hands. Share which insulation option you preferred and why. Please leave comments in the block below, ask questions and publish photos on the topic of the article.

The temperature comfort in the house, first of all, begins to be perceived by the body through the legs. Therefore, the condition of floor coverings and their foundations is given considerable attention. After all, they, especially on the first floors, are among the coldest structures in residential buildings. This is due to coldness and dampness coming from the ground, as well as convection currents of cooling air inside the premises, descending from the ceiling to the floor. Not surprisingly, for houses with wooden floors without a basement or basement, heat loss through and floor structures can be up to 30% of the total. A logical question arises, how to insulate a wooden floor in order to minimize such negative indicators, thus increasing the comfort in the premises?

Design features of insulated wooden floors

In most cases, a wooden floor from a board is mounted on logs. There are two main ways to create such structures: on the ground or on the foundation with the arrangement of the subfloor. The first option is cheaper and more preferable for small technical facilities or temporary residence buildings. These can be sheds, workshops, saunas, cottages, etc. In them, bulk materials are more often used for floor insulation: expanded clay, perlite, polystyrene foam balls, ecowool, tyrsa, straw, derivatives or woodworking waste (sawdust, shavings, wood pellets).

In the second variant, supporting columns or strips of bricks (concrete, rolled steel, foam concrete blocks with an average density of at least 400-600 kg / m 3) on a previously prepared sand cushion can act as a base. Insulation for the floor in a wooden house is placed at some distance from the ground surface, forming a ventilated space (subfloor) to remove moisture. In this case, it is more convenient to install a heat-insulating barrier by laying slab (expanded polystyrene, wood concrete blocks, mineral wool) or rolled (felt, penofol, mineral wool) target materials, however, the use of bulk materials is not excluded.

Stages of installing a floor with bulk insulation on the ground

It is allowed to use this method only with a low occurrence of groundwater at the stage of erection of a temporary residence structure. The sequence of installation stages of floor insulation will be as follows:

1. At the marked construction site, the fertile soil layer is completely removed to a depth of at least 30 cm - the main depths of the roots of the grass cover, exceeding two to three times the height of the timber (10-15 cm), usually chosen as lags.
2. The bottom of the excavation is carefully compacted.
3. The resulting 10 cm pit is filled with coarse-grained mineral material. Suitable: crushed stone, gravel, large construction debris, broken bricks, etc. Ideally, it is recommended to use crushed stone or gravel with bituminous impregnation.
4. A pillow of coarse aggregate is rammed, and fine aggregate (10 cm) is poured on top: river or expanded clay sand, fine slag. Arrangement of a layer of greasy clay is also suitable - it will simultaneously serve as additional waterproofing for warming the wooden floor from below.
5. Logs are lowered onto the ground base. Their wood must be carefully treated with an antiseptic in 2-3 passes. Factory-made target formulations, used engine oil or ozocerite are suitable. For maximum protection against accidental moisture from below, the beam can be wrapped with roofing material, taking care of the hydroprotection of its ends, and lay a couple of layers of plastic film under the entire structure.
6. The space between the lags is filled with backfill for floor insulation.
7. Semi-rough or boards are laid on a timber frame.

If the GWL (groundwater level) is close, then, at a minimum, it is necessary to lay a high base. Then the prepared base is equipped with bulk compacted soil, with which the basement tape is filled to its upper cut.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor on logs with an underfloor

Buildings and structures designed for continuous operation in the winter require more thorough floor insulation. At the same time, quite often used for thermal insulation purposes:

• mineral wool,
• wood waste insulation
• ecowool,

must be protected from moisture. It cannot be placed directly on the ground surface, even using polymer roll waterproofing. In addition to the capillary suction of water from below due to the temperature difference, condensate can accumulate in it. Moisture drops, retained in the microchannels or pores of the heat-shielding layer, significantly reduce its effectiveness.

Therefore, at a high GWL, it is recommended to raise the frame structure, including the insulation for the floor on the logs, above the ground by equipping a ventilated subfloor. The frame can be supported by any sufficiently strong pillars with a height of at least 30-50 cm from non-rotting materials, as well as from wood impregnated with antiseptics and hydrophobes.

To reduce humidity in the underground space, it is advisable to cover the soil surface with plastic wrap. The panels are laid in an overlap of 10-15 cm, with sealing with a wide adhesive tape at the seams. If the supports are monolithic blocks of porous concrete, then it is recommended to install them directly on the film. On the heads of pillars of all types, gaskets are laid under the logs from 2-3 layers of roofing material with bituminous impregnation.

In addition to waterproofing on the ground, it is necessary to equip a barrier of breathable waterproofing (membrane) in the lower part of the wooden floor insulation frame. The vapor-permeable material is laid in such a way as not to prevent the exit of moisture from bulk or fibrous thermal insulation. The underground space receives 2 layers of protection at different levels, not only from moisture, but also the migration of soil radon gas into the living space is reduced.

Important! The ventilated subfloor space must have a sufficient number of vents (vents) with adjustable gaps. The holes are closed with a thin metal mesh or grate, which makes it difficult for rodents to enter the underground.

If you plan to use a hermetic insulation for a wooden floor - slab polystyrene foam of medium or high density, foil thermal insulation based on foamed polymers (isolon, penofol), then there is no need for a breathable membrane barrier.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation along the logs: a sequence of processes

Base making:

• for the base under the supports, it is necessary to choose soil 30-50 cm deep, and in terms of width 10-15 cm more than the column. Fill the hole with sand and gravel mixture and tamp;
• install supports on the formed pillows. Their step is taken no more than 2 m along the span (along the log);
• the heads of the pillars should be aligned in a horizontal plane, using blotches from a cement-sand mortar. If the thickness of the solution exceeds 3 cm, then it is better to reinforce it with a metal mesh, for example, masonry;
• on top of the hardened blotches, lay sheets of waterproofing (2-5 cm wider than the posts), on which the logs are already mounted. The step between the lags depends on the rigidity of the entire structure: the material used for floor insulation, the thickness of the lag, the type of finish coating, as well as operational loads. For typical floor structures in residential buildings, logs with a cross section of 100-150 * 50 mm are usually used. Moreover, it is advisable to install them in increments of 600 mm, which corresponds to the width of the mineral wool boards. With this arrangement, floor insulation with mineral wool is noticeably simplified, and the amount of its trimming is reduced.

Thermal insulation and flooring:

• if you decide to use slab or rolled heat-insulating materials, then for their installation it is enough to fix the metal mesh along the lower plane of the log. If you have chosen a loose heat insulator, then you will have to assemble the lower draft floor to support it. OSB boards, substandard boards, plywood scraps, etc. are suitable for it. The draft flooring is mounted directly to the lower plane of the log or to their side surface through the cranial bar;
• floor insulation on logs must be reliably protected from above from the effects of both dripping liquid and moist air. Therefore, lay a hydro-vapor barrier film on top of it. For each subsequent strip, ensure an overlap on the previous one by at least 10-15 cm. Glue the seams with adhesive tape intended for such work;
• now, in principle, you can start picking up flooring boards by nailing them or screwing them to the logs with self-tapping screws. However, for the preservation of wood, it is better to provide a ventilation gap of at least 30 mm under the top deck. The bars of the appropriate thickness stuffed on them will help to raise the covering boards above the logs.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden floor?

1. Sawdust, wood chips, shavings, wood waste and thermal insulation based on them

Insulating the floor with sawdust in a wooden house is economical and also quite effective. The main advantages of this method are the affordable cost of the material, ease of use, and environmental friendliness. Nevertheless, sawdust in its pure form is quite dusty and is a favorable habitat for various unwanted small animals. Therefore, it may be better to equip the subfloor insulation from building materials made using woodworking waste. Such products include:

• thermal insulation panels. They are blocks 20-50 cm thick, consisting of sawdust, cement and copper sulfate. An effective material with high resistance to biological damage. It is widely used not only for floor insulation, but also for thermal insulation of the walls of structures built in a frame way;
• pallets/granules/pellets made from sawdust and carboxymethyl cellulose glue. Various antiseptics and flame retardants are also added to the feedstock. Thanks to modifiers, a good thermal insulation of a wooden floor is obtained from the material, which has a high resistance to combustion and biological damage;
• sawdust concrete, for the production of which, in addition to sawdust, mainly coniferous wood, sand is used as a fine filler, and Portland cement is used as a binder. The finished product is molded in the form of blocks or plates;
• wood concrete - the closest analogue of sawdust concrete. In it, the role of the filler is played by wood chips. The feedstock is also subjected to targeted chemical treatment by introducing hydrophobic modifiers into it. In addition, the material can be installed both on sound insulation and on the insulation of wooden floors.

2. Mineral wool for floor insulation

It is one of the most common and effective materials. Mineral wool based on slag, basalt and glass fibers is suitable for thermal protection purposes. All of them are non-combustible materials, have low thermal conductivity coefficients, high chemical and biological resistance. However, since slag wool is the most hygroscopic, shrinks significantly, is too brittle, and generates a lot of dust during installation, it is better to refrain from using it.

Low mechanical strength, which is considered a disadvantage of many types of mineral wool, is not of key importance, since the fibrous material will be enclosed in a rigid structure of logs and boardwalk.

Insulation of the floor with mineral wool in a wooden house can be done both with mats and rolls. It is recommended to use their two-layer placement with offset joints, and also to choose basalt wool with moisture-resistant impregnations.

3. Insulation of the wooden floor with foam

Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) is the second most popular material for insulating floors and floors. It has significant biological and chemical resistance, low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability. And unlike fibrous and many bulk building materials, it is not even afraid of direct contact with liquid, therefore it can do without creating a waterproofing carpet between the insulation and the room.

Its disadvantages include: high flammability, some release of carcinogens (decomposition products of the styrene group). Styrofoam insulation of a wooden floor can also be enjoyed by rodents, while at the same time not too favoring glass wool.

Varieties of expanded polystyrene

In addition to the usual slab foam, it can be used in bulk from loose balls. This form of it is convenient both for independent use and in combination with plates for insulating narrow niches.

In structures without lag (in the presence of a rigid, even base), it is possible to install extruded polystyrene foam. It has sufficient strength to withstand laying a semi-rough or finished floor from boards directly onto its surface.

4. Ecowool

Refers to heat-insulating materials from recycled products. Consists of waste paper (80%) and modifying additives mainly on a natural basis (20%). In other words, ecowool is a homogeneous mixture of cellulose fibers, an organic binder (lignin), an antiseptic and a fire retardant (boric acid). Insulation of floors from boards based on it is positioned as environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. It has a low thermal conductivity, and after wetting and subsequent drying, the original properties are completely restored.

The laying of insulation on the floor can be carried out both independently manually and with the help of special injection units with the involvement of third-party specialists. Special equipment also allows you to blow ecowool into the space between the joists even after installing the final floor covering.

5. Foil thermal insulation based on foamed polyethylene (isolon, penofol)

The use of such modern heat-insulating materials makes it possible to insulate the floor in a wooden house with almost complete preservation of the infrared component of thermal energy indoors (up to 98%).

At the same time, the insulation of a wooden floor with penofol or isolon is also its waterproofing. The laying of the material is carried out end-to-end with sealing of the junctions with a special aluminum adhesive tape.

Important! A distance of 10-20 mm must be maintained between the reflective layer and the inner surface of the floor covering.

6. Spray foam

Polyurethane foam has a cellular structure that resembles very dense extruded foam. It is one of the most effective means of thermal insulation due to its extremely low thermal conductivity. Resistant to biological damage, acids and alkalis. It has low moisture absorption rates, does not need an additional vapor or waterproofing carpet. It is applied by spraying with the help of special equipment.

conclusions

Insulation of wooden floors can be done on your own, using various heat-insulating materials and technologies. The costs incurred will pay off in a few years thanks to energy savings. In addition, building structures, due to the absence of temperature fluctuations and the formation of condensate, will receive a longer period of operation.

Probably, many home owners ask themselves such questions: Do I need to insulate the floors? Will there be any sense from the insulated floor? How to insulate an old floor without removing it?

We can say with confidence that it is necessary to insulate the floors, since its insulation will help reduce heating costs and you will feel the benefit of this pretty quickly. And the main advantage of this process is that you can insulate the wooden floor without removing it.

Wooden houses have been very popular for many years, as they are relatively inexpensive, able to stand for more than a dozen, or even a hundred years, and they are also distinguished by their quality and comfort. If your house is well-built and at the same time has excellent insulation, then you can forget about cold winters while in such a building.

But, if you intend to make your home even warmer, then we recommend that you start insulating the floor, as in a cold state it can lower the temperature, which will lead to high heating costs.

double floor

A double floor implies a construction of two levels:

• Draft - boards attached to the beams, on which layers of thermal insulation will be laid;
• Finishing - the level that serves as the basis for laying the last layer of insulation.

Insulation options and what materials are needed.

There are many options for floor insulation that you can find in any building materials market.

We will offer you the most popular and effective heaters:

• Mineral wool is an excellent, soft material that is well priced and has a high thermal insulation value. Mineral wool can be classified as a safe heater that does not emit harmful substances, does not burn;
• Polyurethane foam - mainly used for vapor barrier;
• Expanded clay - has good thermal insulation properties, but has a fairly high cost;
• Penofol, penoplex, polystyrene - synthetic materials that reflect thermal radiation well and are fireproof.

Installation technology

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without disassembling the floor? Very easy. Now we will present you a simple option on how to properly insulate the floor in a room cheaply. So, let's begin.

Work should begin with the organization of a "thermal insulation pie", which will have several insulating layers. For its organization you need:

• Create a construction from a lag;
• Installation of facing boards on logs;
• Carry out the laying of heat-insulating material between the lags so that the gaps are minimal.
• You can fill the gaps with mounting foam;
• We lay a layer of insulation and install a vapor barrier film on top of it, which must be attached to the logs, fix the overlaps with adhesive tape;
• We install the selected flooring.

Floor insulation on the ground will be a “pie” of many layers, which will be presented:

1. mother soil;
2. Bulk layer of soil;
3. Large gravel;
4. Sand or cement mortar (which will be needed to level the rubble);
5. Waterproofing (in the underground of the house, it will not allow moistening not only the floor, but also the house itself);
6. Insulation (polyurethane foam, mineral wool, penofol are perfect. You can also insulate the floor with expanded clay, which has good thermal insulation qualities, but also has a high cost.

A good option is penoplex. It is as easy to insulate the floor with foam plastic as with other materials).

• Screed (main and main layer of the structure);
• Floor covering ("finish" layer).

To make an effective design, you will need good materials, patience and a few helpers. If you cope with the task, then the insulated floors on the ground will keep the heat in your house well and will not allow the cold to penetrate.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

It is worth considering the fact that each insulation must have its own thickness, which will minimize heat loss.

Here is a list of the required thickness for various heaters:

• Styrofoam - for a wooden house - 300mm, for a concrete house - 200mm;
• Mineral wool - at least 300-400 mm;
• Expanded clay - 300-400 mm;
• Polyurethane foam, penoplex, penofol - not less than 100 mm;

Mineral wool

As previously written in the article, mineral wool is a popular material that is non-combustible, resistant to shrinkage, deformation, as well as fungi and mold.

Before laying the mineral wool, the sheathing must already have a heat-insulating material that will protect it from moisture. If there is already a waterproofing layer, then we mount mineral wool, the sheets of which should be tightly pressed against each other in order to avoid gaps and gaps. After laying the mineral wool, we apply a layer of vapor barrier, then proceed to the installation of the floor covering.

Expanded clay

It is a porous balls of various sizes, which have good thermal insulation performance. Expanded clay is very durable, safe to use, has soundproofing qualities, and besides, it has a long service life. It is also worth noting its resistance to various temperatures. The process of insulation with these materials is a rather laborious process. After that, they fall asleep on the coating with waterproofing, then rammed and poured with cement.

Styrofoam

This material is distinguished by its lightness and ease of installation, withstands moisture well, has good sound insulation, and has a long service life. But, its only drawback is its low fire safety, that is, it can ignite.

Before laying the foam, on the surface where it will be installed, there must be a layer of waterproofing. After, foam blocks are installed on the surface, after - a layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Penoplex

Between the lags we lay a layer of insulation, then a draft floor is made on top, on which we can already lay a finishing floor. Tip - the gaps between the foam sheets can be sealed with mounting foam. Also, penoplex can be used to insulate not only the floor, but also the house itself.

Penofol

Laying penofol from other heaters, in fact, is not particularly different. As for any insulation, we prepare the surface, organize the vapor barrier and install the insulation, on which we apply a layer of penofol. When the penofol layer is installed, we proceed to laying the flooring.

How to insulate a concrete floor

Now we will move away from the article a little and talk a little about choosing a heater for a concrete floor.

For a concrete floor, such heaters are perfect:

1. mineral wool;
2. Styrofoam;
3. expanded clay;
4. cork insulation, etc.

How to insulate the floor in a frame house

You can also insulate the floor with your own hands in a frame house without removing the old floor on the ground floor. In fact, the insulation in such a house is no different from the insulation of a wooden house. We nail the bars to the logs along the entire length and then mount the boards on top, or OSB boards. To make a waterproofing coating, we make a flooring from a waterproof film that will not let moisture through. Then, we proceed to the insulation layer.

What material is of high quality and what is the best way to insulate the floor? Indoors, you can insulate the floor with foam, expanded clay, mineral wool, polyurethane foam. Is it possible to insulate the floor with penofol? Yes, you can. This material is almost no different from those presented above. It is also suitable for this process, it will create a good warming effect.

How to insulate the floor in a private house

Floor insulation in a private house is carried out according to the same principle as in a wooden one. The only difference may be only the presence of a concrete floor, and not a wooden one.

How to insulate the floor in the apartment

The construction of an insulated surface of an apartment (on any floor) is also not very different from the insulation of a wooden or frame house.

As in a private house, the process of insulation begins with the creation of a lag, on which the flooring of boards or OSB sheets is carried out, after which we lay down the waterproofing and the insulation layer itself. If the insulation is laid, proceed to the installation of the floor covering.

There is another way to insulate an apartment, but it is suitable for those who live on the 1st floor. We can say that you are very lucky to live on such a floor, since you can insulate the basement from the basement.

Thanks to this method, it is not required to dismantle, remove or disassemble the old floor, which greatly facilitates the work. So, the tedious process of creating a new floor does not threaten you.

As you can see, there are many materials to insulate and create a high-quality, full-fledged wooden floor that will delight you on cold winter evenings.

homeframe.ru

How to insulate the floor in an old wooden house

Hello! We got an old village house. Solid wooden frame, quite warm, but cold floor. We often visit it in the off-season and, no matter how the stove is fired, you can’t walk barefoot on the boards, your feet get cold. Tell me, how can I insulate it, maybe lay something on top? After all, today there are a lot of all kinds of heaters, we were advised in the store to put foil Teplon.

There is no simple answer to your question. Or, rather, there is: most likely, only a traditional rug can be put on the floor of an old village house - and nothing more.

The fact is that in Russian huts (and German houses, by the way, too) they didn’t do not only insulation, but also waterproofing of the floor, although these technologies have long been known. The unfilled underground space is best combined with stove heating, provides optimal humidity, warmth in winter (the ground does not freeze) and coolness in summer. If your house is really built in accordance with the canons of folk architecture - most likely, under thick floorboards and one or two powerful logs there is open ground, probably well-trodden clay. Yes, you yourself mention this. Therefore, even if your hut is built in a dry place, moisture penetrates from the “damp earth” into the underground space. She can go outside through the holes in the foundation or into the room through the holes in the floor, the gaps between the boards and even the wood itself.

Neither waterproofing nor floor insulation was done in a traditional wooden house - only ventilation

If this is the case and there is no waterproofing, placing a thin layer of insulation on the boards that is impervious to water vapor (cork, foamed polyethylene of any brand, insulated linoleum) will lead to waterlogging of the floor boards and their accelerated destruction. And to build an additional layer on top with a breathable heat insulator, a ventilated gap and a new flooring will not allow the low ceiling of the hut.

Our advice: put carpet on the floor, only on a woven, not a solid PVC backing. The presence of natural fibers in the pile will make it warmer to the touch. Remove the wool carpet from the wall and place it on the floor.

If the carpets do not give the desired result, and the desire to increase comfort in the home is great, you will have to open the floors.

To effectively insulate the floor in an old wooden house, you will first have to disassemble it.

Remove the boards, if necessary, level the level with sand, carefully spread the waterproofing on the ground. It is easier, cheaper and more environmentally friendly to use a vapor barrier roofing film, carefully pressing and gluing it to the foundation and posts on which the logs stand. You can press it with wooden planks, and glue it on uneven concrete or rubble with building sealant or mounting adhesive. Lay a layer of mineral, glass wool on the film or pour expanded clay, perlite, agloporite, broken foam glass.

Expanded clay is not the most effective, but inexpensive and almost non-absorbent insulation.

Thermal insulation based on organic materials (sawdust, hemp concrete, ecowool) can be used if you are sure that you have completely eliminated moisture penetration. A layer of insulation of any type - the thicker, but between it and the floor boards it is necessary to leave a gap for ventilation of at least 4 cm.

Don't forget the ventilation gap

Now you can lay the boards back, at the same time checking their condition and treating them with a protective agent on the reverse side - they will last longer. And if you really want to arrange comfort, as in the royal chambers, you can contrive to take the sleeve away from the stove, cover the insulation with wind insulation so that it does not dust, and, if necessary, blow warm air into the underground space with a fan. But this is a topic for a separate discussion.

Various options for insulating a wooden floor on the ground. Details depend on the features of the existing structure, but in all cases, waterproofing is required.

And, in fact, it’s supposed to walk on the floor in a hut not barefoot, but in homemade felt boots :)

mrpol.su

Independent floor insulation in a wooden house - 3 options for high-quality installation

Most modern people associate wooden houses with comfort and warmth. And in principle, this is true, because wood is a living, natural, breathable material. But many of my friends methodically step on the same rake, forgetting that floor insulation in a wooden house is no less important than wall and roof insulation. In this article, I will first tell you how to insulate the floor in a wooden house in the three most accessible ways, and then I will personally go through the application of each type of insulation specifically for wooden buildings.

Floor insulation with cotton slabs.

Design options for floor insulation in wooden houses

Let's start with the fact that modern wooden houses can be built both on a light pile or strip foundation, and on a monolithic concrete slab, respectively, and the insulation scheme in all these cases will be different.

In addition, the floors in wooden houses can be insulated both from below, that is, from the basement side, and from above, from the living quarters. Naturally, it is easier to do all this during the construction of a house, but not everyone is so lucky and sometimes you have to insulate the floors in an old house, which leaves its mark on the technology.

Types of heater.

Any major types of work in wooden houses, including wall and floor insulation, are recommended to be carried out only after the structure shrinks. And this shrinkage in a house assembled from a dry forest lasts about a year. If freshly cut wood was used for construction, then shrinkage can last up to 5-7 years.

Option number 1. Arrangement of thermal insulation in a house with a low underground

Low underground is a disease of most old houses and summer cottages. In my experience, almost all owners who bought or somehow got a cottage built in the old fashioned way, back in Soviet times, face a serious problem of cold, and often rotten floors.

Bookmark Penoplex between the lags.

I’ll hasten to reassure you right away, it’s not necessary to break everything, if the log house itself is still intact and strong enough, then you can insulate the floor in a wooden house with your own hands in a few days, and for this, it’s not at all necessary to be a real builder. It is enough to confidently use a hacksaw, drill and hammer.

As you probably already guessed, if a private house has a low underground, then the floors will have to be insulated from above. And for this we need to disassemble the entire structure completely, leaving only the supporting logs;

If the boards and baseboards of the finished floor are in good condition, and you are not determined to completely change them, then when you tear off the flooring, be sure to draw a sketch of the masonry for yourself and number each board. This will save you a lot of time and effort when you start to return everything to its place.

Vapor barrier over mineral wool.

• When you have free access to the logs, the first thing to do is to carefully examine the condition of the wood. Logs are a supporting structure, respectively, they must be strong and reliable. If the number of rotten logs does not exceed 20-30%, then you should tinker with their restoration;
• In general, according to the rules, a damaged beam must be completely removed, and the same one should be installed in its place. But this work is not for an amateur, there are too many small, professional subtleties. When I first encountered the problem of partial replacement of the bearing beam, I did it simply. -I cut out the rotten sector, and in its place I inserted the same part of a healthy beam. I fixed this sector on self-tapping screws using 4 standard metal corners 35 mm, making an overlap on the old beam of about 50 cm. But if there were no corners at hand, you can fill an ordinary board with a thickness of about 30 mm on both sides;
• Now you can start arranging the subfloor. Opinions on how to do this correctly among builders vary. The classic technology looks something like this: on both sides of each lag, along the lower edge, the so-called bearing cranial beam is stuffed. I recommend taking a section of at least 30x30 mm, if you take it thinner, then it may not withstand the load or burst from a nail or self-tapping screw;

Installation of insulation with a ventilation gap.

• The distance between the lags often fluctuates around 50 - 70 cm. In our version, the draft floor will be assembled from planks laid on the cranial timber, perpendicular to the lags. Therefore, we will first need to cut these boards and soak them well with an antiseptic, since they are located directly above the ground. For these purposes, a non-edged board with a thickness of about 20 - 30 mm is well suited. The question of what can be impregnated is solved simply: the market is full of various impregnations, but I went the simplest way, dipped each board into engine oil;
• I am often asked the question of whether subfloor planks need to be attached to the joists or to the cranial support beam. So, as far as I have seen and done myself, these planks simply fit on the cranial bar and that's it. Moreover, when you measure and cut the planks, they need to be made 10 - 15 mm narrower than the gap between the lags. This tolerance is necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity deformations of wood;

Scheme of insulation by lags.

• Further, the instruction prescribes to lay a layer of hydro or vapor barrier on the subfloor. The difference is this: if the soil under the house is dry and there is no heavy spring flood in your area, then it is necessary to install a vapor barrier membrane, and so that the steam freely escapes from the insulation, but in no case penetrates from the soil into the insulation. Waterproofing is installed in places with a high level of groundwater and on wet soils. As a waterproofing, technical polyethylene or roofing material is most often used. Any of these membranes is covered with a continuous layer of overlap, over the log, so that the subfloor is completely covered, without any gaps or crevices. I usually fix such a canvas with a stapler;
• In the resulting improvised boxes, the insulation you have chosen is laid. What is possible, and also the better to insulate the floor in a wooden house, I will tell you in detail a little later, now we will not dwell on this;

Slab insulation flush with the lags.

• The presence or absence of a vapor barrier sheet on top of the insulation is determined by what materials were chosen for insulation. But in any case, a small ventilation gap, 20 - 30 mm, should remain between the fine wooden flooring and the insulation layer. To do this, if possible, the insulation is mounted a little, below the upper cut of the lag. If this is not possible and the material is laid flush with the joists, then you will have to stuff a wooden counter crate perpendicular to the joists, in increments of 30 - 40 cm.

  Moreover, hydro or vapor barrier, if any, should be under the counter crate. Otherwise, if the finished wooden floor is not provided with proper ventilation from below, the boards will sooner or later begin to deteriorate;

• The top layer, of course, is the finishing wood coating.

Filling the floor with ecowool.

Option number 2. We insulate the floor above the cellar

Proper floor insulation from below in a wooden house, in general, is carried out using a similar technology, but believe me, it is much easier to do this. After all, under the condition of the normal state of the finishing coating, you do not need to disassemble it. Otherwise, the technology is the same, only all actions are performed in reverse.

Draft floor, laid on the cranial timber.

• According to the rules, in order for the insulation not to “stick” to the finishing coating and the necessary ventilation gap to remain, it is supposed to fill in the upper part of the log, on the border with the finishing floor, a small cranial bar of 20–30 mm. But to be honest, I never do that. It is much easier to fix the vapor barrier membrane with a stapler, just below the finished floor. No one forces you to clearly measure everything, the main thing is that the ventilation gap remains;
• To mount a cranial beam and hem a draft floor from planks using the previous technology on the basement ceiling, I also do not see much point. After laying the insulation in the niches, so that it does not immediately fall out, I stuff a number of small carnations on the logs and pull on several strings of fishing line or wire;

Installation of insulation from below.

• Further from the bottom, with the same stapler, a waterproofing sheet is attached to the lags. And on top of this canvas, to strengthen the structure, an unedged board or an ordinary slab is stuffed. If the basement is damp and there is often water in it, then it makes sense to sew a galvanized profile under drywall instead of an unedged board on the ceiling. I usually fasten it in increments of 20 - 30 cm, in any case, it is only needed so that the insulation does not fall out.

floor heating algorithm.

According to a similar technology, the second floor is also being equipped, more precisely, a wooden floor between the first and second floors along the logs. The only difference is that instead of a subfloor layer, lining or some kind of sheet material, such as plywood or drywall, is most often sewn from below.

Scheme of interfloor overlap.

Option number 3. We insulate the floor of a wooden house standing on a concrete slab

The floor in a wooden house on a solid concrete base can be insulated using two technologies: mounting on logs and arranging a screed. The choice depends on what end result you want to see and how much money you are willing to spend on all this. Most often, the first option is used in such houses; according to it, at the finish you get a covering from a natural floorboard.

Reinforcing mesh under the screed on Penoplex.

Compared to the two previous options, in my opinion, it is much easier to insulate a concrete slab. As a rule, such a base initially has an absolutely flat plane, in addition, the weight of the insulating structure itself does not matter here.

According to the first method, you need to mount a wooden crate on the stove. It will replace us with those same load-bearing logs.

Only at first the concrete must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. In this case, it is quite enough, technical polyethylene. The thickness of the bars under the crate depends on the type of insulation.

For a full-fledged floorboard with a thickness of 40 mm or more, the laying step of the batten guides varies between 50 - 70 cm. In the case when it is planned to sew up the floor with thick plywood or OSB, the step is about 30 - 40 cm.

Insulation of a wooden floor on concrete.

The battens are attached to the concrete slab with anchors. After that, just like when mounting from above, a heater is laid in the niches, and a finishing coating is sewn on top of it.

Warming a concrete slab under a screed is made even easier. Looking a little ahead, I’ll say that the best insulation here is extruded polystyrene foam, which we better know as Penoplex. I will talk about its capabilities later, but now let's get back to the technology.

So this Penoplex is laid in a continuous layer on a flat concrete slab, attached to it and all the cracks are blown with foam. After that, you can choose: either lay a metal reinforcing mesh on it and fill it with a screed, or equip the flooring from plywood, OSB or drywall and mount a laminate on it using floating technology.

Reinforced screed for expanded clay.

If you are interested in a blank for the “warm floor” system, then for both the electric and water versions, the extruded polystyrene foam base is perfect.

In addition to extruded polystyrene foam, such a floor can be insulated with expanded clay. Of course, you will have to mess around more, but the price of such insulation will be disproportionately less.

The technology here is about the same. Initially, the concrete is covered with a waterproofing film with a call to the walls, just above the finishing coating. Then a layer of expanded clay is filled up and leveled along the horizon.

Expanded clay insulation.

You can put reinforcement on expanded clay and pour cement-sand mortar, it will be a wet screed. Or lay a double layer of plywood, OSB or drywall, this is already called a dry floating screed.

Choosing a heater

We figured out how to make the insulation itself, now it remains to find out which floor insulation in a wooden house is more suitable in a given situation. To make it easier for you to understand, I conditionally divided all the materials into 2 large areas:

1. Budget, that is, not expensive;
2. And what is now called new technologies, respectively, their cost is an order of magnitude higher.

Traditional budget heaters

• Wood sawdust is deservedly considered the patriarch in this direction. It is not difficult to guess that the price for them is cheap, if you try hard, you can even get it for free. But in order for this material to be used as a heater, it must be well prepared. Otherwise, after a couple of months, the sawdust will simply rot.

First of all, remember that sawdust must be aged in a dry place for at least a year, freshly sawn material is not suitable. And in order for the mice not to arrange a hostel in this heater, you need to add slaked lime there.

Since we are talking about self-cooking, then I will take the liberty of giving you the 2 most popular recipes:

Sawdust as an environmentally friendly insulation.

1. For the floor, the bulk option is best suited. Here, 8 parts of dry sawdust will need to be thoroughly mixed with two parts of dry powder of slaked lime, in stores such lime is called fluff. In principle, the material is ready, now it can be poured into the space between the subfloor and the finishing floor. Only to achieve the expected effect, in the middle lane of our great motherland, this layer should be at least 150 - 200 mm. And in the northern regions, it can reach up to 300 and even 400 mm;

Fluff lime.

1. It is much easier to work with plates. But these plates will need to be made first. In the composition of the solution, in addition to sawdust, the same fluff is present, and cement is added as a binder. Standard proportion 8/1/1 (sawdust/lime/cement). Naturally, all this is abundantly wetted and mixed well. When the solution is ready, it is poured into molds and lightly compacted. In the warm season, after about a week, the plates will dry and be ready for use. It is possible to lay the raw mix directly into the floor, but in this case you will not be able to sew up the finish coat, because you will have to wait a couple of weeks until the mortar is completely dry.

Sawdust insulation board.

• The second number we have is expanded clay. This material is widely used in our country. Expanded clay is a granule of foamed and fired clay. The material is porous, lightweight, strong and durable. Its only drawback is its hygroscopicity, expanded clay is able to absorb moisture. Hence the conclusion follows, expanded clay needs mandatory installation of waterproofing.

  As for the depth of insulation, it is about the same as that of sawdust. To equip the floor in a wooden house, 2 fractions of expanded clay, gravel and sand should be used. So your mound will be more dense;

Different fractions of expanded clay.

• But perhaps the most popular floor insulation in the public sector is polystyrene foam. The material is comfortable in almost every way. In the underground, protected from all sides, the foam will lie indefinitely. Where sawdust or expanded clay needs to be covered with a minimum thickness of 150 mm, it is enough to install foam plastic with a thickness of only 50 mm. This insulation is absolutely indifferent to moisture and waterproofing is installed here only to protect the wood itself. To install it, you only need to cut the slab exactly to the size of the niche, insert it and blow out the gaps with mounting foam.

  In a wooden house, rodents are the weak point of the foam embedded in the floor. They really like to arrange their nests in it and it is almost impossible to fight this with folk methods;

Insulation of a wooden floor with foam.

• It would not be fair to miss such a common insulation as mineral wool. You can’t call it really cheap, but there are several inexpensive models in the line. In particular, glass wool and soft mineral wool mats are not expensive.

But to be honest, I don’t recommend them to you, this material quickly caking, mice love it and when wet, it completely loses its qualities. No matter how hard you try, soft cotton wool will have to be changed about once every 10 years.

There are also mineral wool basalt slabs, they are more expensive, but their density and quality are much higher. I recommend that if you install cotton wool, then take only slabs with a thickness of about 100m.

Basalt mineral wool slabs.

Of all the above budget options for insulation, only sawdust and polystyrene are considered combustible. Expanded clay and cotton wool are the standard of fire safety.

New technologies

• Among the newfangled heaters, extruded polystyrene foam is now breaking all records of popularity. It is a modern derivative of foam, both materials are made from styrene granules, the difference is only in technology. Extruded polystyrene boards have a closed cell structure. As a result, the material does not pass not only moisture, but even steam. In fact, we are dealing with a good waterproofing agent. Above, I already mentioned that Penoplex can be laid in a screed, this is due to the fantastic strength of extruded polystyrene foam.

  If airfields, roads and concrete foundations can be insulated with this material, then there is nothing to say about the strength of a small screed in a wooden house. In addition, mice do not particularly favor him either;

Insulation with Penoplex from the basement.

• The next number we have is the so-called ecowool. It is approximately 80% cellulose, the remaining 20% ​​are flame retardants and antiseptics. In the production of ecowool is not very expensive, because cellulose is obtained from shredded waste paper. I think that the high price here is due more to the fact that the material is new. There are two ways to install such a heater. If you are interested in self-assembly, then the cotton wool is simply poured into the floor cells and fluffed up with a construction mixer.

  But it is better to order machine blowing. In this case, cotton wool is blown onto any surface, including vertical and overhanging surfaces, with the help of a compressor. Ecowool has one advantage over other modern heaters, if you are sure of the quality installation of the subfloor and finish floor, then in old houses you can simply make a hole and blow the entire subfloor through it with ecowool;

Fluffing ecowool.

• Polyurethane foam pleasure is quite expensive. It is impossible to apply this material on any surface with your own hands; professional equipment and specialists with appropriate qualifications are needed here. According to its characteristics, polyurethane foam approaches extruded polystyrene foam, only it will not withstand the screed. The best option here is to foam the floor from below in a wet basement. The fact is that the foam will hermetically close the tree from below, and the warranty period for the operation of such a heater starts from 30 years;

Filled with polyurethane foam.

• Penoizol will cost less than polyurethane foam. But for its application also need specialists. Personally, in the case of floor insulation in a wooden house, I don’t see much point in paying for such material. Indeed, in fact, penoizol is the same foam, only in liquid form. Of all the advantages, only quick installation and a sealed continuous coating;

Filling with penoizol.

• Finally, I wanted to talk about the so-called isolon. In a nutshell, isolon is polyethylene foam. It can be coated on one or both sides with foil, and also go without a foil coating. But it is difficult to call it an independent floor insulation in a wooden house, most models have a thickness of up to 10 mm. With such a thickness, isolon can only be used as an auxiliary coating. In particular, it is used in the arrangement of electric floor heating. Or they are sometimes additionally covered with cotton wool. Foil isolon is a good waterproofing agent, and personally, I often mount it instead of the top insulating layer under the finish coat.

Isolon canvas.

Output

Insulating the floor in a wooden house with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If you choose the right insulation and prepare well, then the floors in a medium-sized house can be equipped in a maximum of a week. In the photo and video in this article, I have placed additional information on the topic of insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

Warm floor in a wooden house.

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How important is floor insulation in a wooden dwelling to you?

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without disassembling the floor?

For comfort and convenience in a personal home, it is not enough to have walls and a roof.

It is extremely important that the housing is always cozy in winter and comfortable in summer. Therefore, it is extremely important how painstakingly you treat the floor insulation in a wooden house. This circumstance helps to create, not only a generally favorable microclimate of your home in the cold winter, but also you will feel how the heating costs of your mansion have dropped noticeably. Since directly through a non-insulated floor, up to one third of the heat you create can go away.

High-quality thermal insulation of the floor makes it possible to maintain a deliberately desired temperature in the building as a whole, and prevents the exit of rooms, excessive moisture, mold, and condensate from escaping into the space. The great popularity of this method of erecting wooden buildings has posed an urgent task, how to insulate the floor in a wooden house without dismantling the floor, and what technologies and, of course, materials, can be assembled to achieve the desired goal?

And so we begin the selection of materials for insulation.

The essential quality of insulation of floor structures is directly related to the insulation of housing. And it all depends on the right choice of materials. The progressive industry in all countries offers a fairly diverse selection of all kinds of various thermal insulation.

Fiberglass, stone or mineral wool. All these materials are distinguished by the highest level of technological thermal insulation and greater sound absorption. If single-layer insulation is performed, mats from these bulk materials or bulk insulation rolled into rolls are used. Most of all, thermal insulation options in mats are considered elastic, the so-called lumpy design, they are also the most durable.

What is the cheapest way to insulate a wooden floor in a house?

Penoplex, as well as expanded polystyrene, are heat-insulating materials that have every chance of being used to insulate almost all systems. For the most part, they differ primarily in their low price. These materials are relatively durable, and at the same time, for their level, provide excellent thermal insulation of structures.

Thermal insulation is carried out from such materials, using spraying or laying. This method is considered more economical, successful and technologically advanced. More such insulation is performed in new dwellings.

Mineral wool;

• Thermal conductivity is low;
• The material is loose and loose, therefore not dense;
• Great water repellency;
• Long-term resistance to decomposition;
• Improved price-quality ratio;
• The purity of the material according to GOST for ecology;
• Chem. resistance to the surrounding environment;
• Resistance to various microorganisms;
• Elementary installation and processing;
• Natural ecological impeccability.

For the sake of an environmentally friendly log building, as a rule, only materials that are environmentally flawless are applicable. An important issue in this selection of the basis for insulation is not to spoil this impeccable aura, which the log walls and floor are ready to form. For this reason, the selection of thermal insulation is also forced to comply with environmental conditions.

The use of fiberglass or rottisite wool absolutely meets the conditions of environmental friendliness. Only one fact must be taken into account that in the situation of not using, in order to connect the fibers, in these used materials, harmless resins. The presence of phenol-formaldehyde resin in mineral wool insulation can be seen due to the brownish tint of the material used. These additives make the fiberglass yellowish.

The safety of using expanded polystyrene for floors is directly dependent on the density properties of the material used. It is important that the floor is thoroughly dried, so that the insulation materials do not retain compounds that quickly evaporate, which, when the temperature rises, are ready to poison the human body. For example, styrene is also capable of provoking such a disease in a person as toxic hepatitis, leukemia, and so on.

Styrofoam insulation technology

When selecting and using materials for the purpose of floor insulation, it is important to carefully examine their composition and get acquainted with the certificates of their environmental protection. Most of the current heat-insulating materials used are made in compliance with all international environmental conditions. In these used materials, the link is considered to be a combination of acrylic and latex, which are safe for well-being.

Service life of thermal insulation;

It is currently quite difficult to establish to what extent the thermal insulation used to insulate the floor will be reliable. In the selection of varieties of insulation, many of their properties should be taken into account.

For example, many used materials, after being put under pressure by a certain load, no longer restore their original size. In this case, there is one caveat, many of their fibers simply break. For this reason, such used materials do not adhere well to beams and floor joists. Such systems form the conditions for the occurrence of cold bridges. In addition, in areas of non-compact fit of thermal insulation, condensation is likely to occur.

In order to select a high-quality insulation, press on a small piece of it (for example, it is allowed to put a foot). If after this pressure it acquires its own initial configuration, it can be acquired. If the material is kept thin, it will not work for you.

How to increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor?

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without dismantling?

Naturally, one cannot limit oneself to heat-insulating mats made of moisture-proof plywood, when insulating. For example, very often specialized insulated types of finishing materials that have been used are used, such as heat-insulating thick linoleums, dual carpet flooring.

Often, wood-fiber boards or wood-fiber tiles or other suitable materials are laid directly under finished floor coverings, for example, under parquet.

double floor

An additional type of insulation of a log building, especially its 1st floor, is additional insulation of the base of the house. In addition, it is necessary to thoroughly check all ventilation openings in the basement rooms without exception.

Thus, the question arises, how to insulate the floors in a wooden house? The type of insulation in the double floor version is used quite often. In this case, the initial layer will be the preliminary flooring, for example, from rough boards, thoroughly fixed to the beams. The tightness of the fit of the draft boards to each other is very significant, since there should be no gaps left. On top of them, an ordinary finishing flooring is applied, and then (if necessary) a finishing coating with various decorating materials.

Instead of a dirty floor, a variety of flooring is often used. In the property of similar floorings, embossed or smoothed floor coverings are often used, which have a high degree of thermal insulation. Such used materials do not basically concentrate garbage, and simply sweep away all kinds of specks and dust from their plane, or pick it up with a vacuum cleaner.

Such and similar coatings are simply glued to the floor with bustilat glue, spreading it in the form of strips on the used material. Joints are thoroughly glued.

Insulation with fiberboard support

The use of wood-fiber insulation for the purpose of floor insulation can be quite common. Fibreboards have every chance to fit both under the finish coating and on the boards of the main floor, for example, under parquet, linoleum, carpet, laminate or other used materials.

The slabs are laid in the floor one by one, following the accuracy and uniformity of the joints, avoiding all kinds of cracks. For the purpose of such work, various types of plates can be used. More famous are PT-STO and M-20. These plates prevent frost penetration from under the floor into housing. In addition, the use of fiberboard insulation is an addition to the use of rottisite wool or other types of thermal insulation.

The concept of "hot floors"

One of the most well-known technologies is the concept of "hot floors". In particular, this concept is often applicable when pouring a floor at the base of a cement screed, which needs to be heated. This concept is used in combination with the use of classic used materials for the purpose of insulation.

This concept makes it possible to achieve measured heating of the floor plane. A more comfortable cryo temperature is formed in absolutely the entire room, and by no means only under the ceiling. Humidity in the building is significantly reduced. Especially important is the use of hot floors in the 1st floor of a wooden building.

The concept of a water "hot floor"

A similar concept is produced in the following sequences:

1. The base of the floor (cement screed) is poured or concrete slabs are laid.
2. One or another insulation is placed, its layer can have from 2 up to 10 cm.
3. Reinforcing bars are being installed.
4. The concept of pipelines is being installed. It is reinforced with plastic clamps to the reinforcement grid.
5. The floor is filled with optimal materials (the concept of poured floors).
6. Used as an underlay if needed.
7. After that, the finishing floors, the so-called floor coverings, are placed.

Electric "hot floors" in a wooden house

Much easier to implement electric hot floors. It is possible to use cable systems or film heating components. In this case, the wire has the ability to be stretched in an iron mesh attached to the lags.

If film infrared electrical materials are used, they have every chance of being placed directly in the screed, protected by a gasket made of heat-insulating materials.

When performing thermal insulation using a wooden floor or parquet, keep at least 1 cm distance between the wall and the floor. A tree is always able to change its own volumes and shapes, depending on moisture and temperature.

It is more correct to carry out heat-insulating activities even during the construction of the building, taking it into account when designing.

The pair concept of the floor is considered to be predominant. This concept guarantees the necessary ventilation and makes it possible to exclude the occurrence of mold and fungus.

The implementation of additional thermal insulation should be done with simple materials, in order not to form a significant load on the base of the house.

Materials, for the purpose of thermal insulation, must be environmentally friendly and non-hazardous and non-flammable.

Tips for insulation

When performing thermal insulation using a wooden floor or parquet, leave a gap of at least 1 centimeter between the wall and the floor. Since the tree is able to change its volumes and shapes, depending on moisture and temperature.

It is more correct to carry out thermal insulation activities, even during the construction of the building, taking it into account when designing.

The dual concept of gender is considered predominant. This concept guarantees the necessary ventilation and makes it possible to exclude the occurrence of mold and fungus.

The implementation of additional thermal insulation should be done with simple and time-tested materials in order not to form a significant load on the base of the house.

Materials for thermal insulation must be environmentally friendly and non-flammable.

What does the European market of heat-insulating materials offer today?

The variety of thermal insulation materials used in today's building market often leads consumers to a stalemate. In order to correctly select the material used, one should understand its characteristic features and abilities.

Material; Insulate.

This is a heat insulating source in rolls, created in China. The property of the material is quite high, at a low cost. Insulation is suitable for thermal insulation of various systems.

Material; ursa

URSA Insulation material

One of the most famous thermal insulation materials. This source is more used for the purpose of horizontal planes. Having at its disposal a low cost, good thermal and sound insulation properties.

Material; Thermolife

It is used for small loads on thermal insulation. It is more used for the purpose of insulating the walls of the roof, or ceilings, or interfloor spaces. Able to be used in horizontal, vertical and oblique surfaces.

No less common are similar thermal insulation materials, such as: Teplex, Isovent, Isolight, Rockwool, Penoplex and numerous other types of thermal insulation. It is important to make the right selection in the interests of your own wooden building.