Lesson on how to install plastic windows. How to install a plastic window

At the moment, there are a huge number of firms - intermediaries that mount translucent metal-plastic structures. Employees of these companies allow violations of the installation technology, causing serious problems later. The purpose of the article is to tell ordinary homeowners how to properly install plastic windows with their own hands, without paying for services of dubious quality.

Stages of installation work

As a rule, installers of metal-plastic windows offer the customer 2 installation options - budget and according to GOST, and the prices for services differ markedly. It is not worth using the first technology even in the country - after 3-5 years, negative consequences will appear: freezing, slope cracks or frame warping.

1. The choice of the manufacturer, the conclusion of the contract and the invitation of a specialist - measurer.
2. Purchase of additional materials.
3. Dismantling of old wooden structures (if necessary), preparation of the opening.
4. Installation and finishing of new PVC windows.

Advice. When choosing a company for the manufacture of translucent structures, analyze various promotional offers. At too low a price, products with short-lived aluminum fittings are sold - handles, constipation, and so on. The fastest parts break on the opening sash or balcony door.

A measurer from the company is needed for two reasons:

• an experienced specialist knows better how to measure correctly;
• The service is a prerequisite for maintaining the factory warranty on the product.

Basic dimensions for ordering PVC windows

When the master measures the opening and marks the dimensions on the drawing, make a copy of this sketch. Based on the finished picture, it is easier to calculate how much materials you need to buy. After the conclusion of the contract, you have 10-15 days to purchase them and carry out preparatory work.

List of related materials

The composition of the installation kit depends on the building materials from which the building was erected. In stone houses, the installation of plastic windows is carried out using 3 types of fasteners:

• anchor bolts through the frame - in brick and cinder block walls;
• screws for concrete (pins) through the frame - in the walls of reinforced concrete panels;
• remote mounting with self-tapping screws on a metal plate - in structures made of porous materials - aerated concrete, foam blocks, and so on.

Fastening to anchors (left) and concrete screws (right)

Note. In wooden houses, metal-plastic windows are attached with special dowels to the casing. How to properly install the product in a wall of timber and logs, we will consider separately.

Fastening to perforated steel plates is used in cases where the frame installation line coincides with the insulation layer inside the wall - an anchor in foam plastic or mineral wool is useless. The structure is mounted on rigid steel plates 2 mm thick, screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws.

To independently insert a PVC window into the opening in accordance with the requirements of GOST, purchase the following materials:

• plastic stepped wedges for leveling the product in the opening;
• vapor barrier tape that protects the assembly seam from moisture and ultraviolet radiation, which destroys polyurethane foam;
• the same, with a metallized layer for internal insulation;

• diffusion strip (allows moisture to pass in one direction and protects the joint from the outside);
• pre-compressed sealing tape (abbreviated as PSUL);
• polyurethane mounting foam in a cylinder, better in a professional version for a gun.

An important point. When performing work in the cold season, especially in winter, choose the appropriate type of polyurethane foam. There are 3 varieties: summer, all-weather and winter.

For external finishing of slopes, purchase platbands suitable for the type of building cladding. From the inside, it is better to frame a plastic window with PVC slopes, as the master advises in his video:

Opening preparation - instruction for dummies

The main purpose of dismantling is to dismantle an old wooden window, minimally destroying building structures. First of all, remove unnecessary things from the room, cover the furniture with plastic wrap, and also remove curtains and carpets.

Advice. Dismantle old windows upon delivery of new translucent structures so that you do not have to hang a through hole at night.

The window opening should be thoroughly cleaned and unevenness removed. If, during disassembly, the embedded parts escaped from the walls, seal the recesses with a cement-sand mortar. In order to strengthen and remove dust, treat all surfaces with a primer (2 times) or a special primer.

Putting a new window

As a rule, the manufacturer delivers the products assembled. Before installing a plastic window, it should be disassembled - remove the opening doors and remove the double-glazed windows that prevent the dowels (anchors) from being screwed in. An exception is the installation of PVC windows on metal plates, in which case it is not required to pull out the glass.

Disassembly is done like this:

Important! Number the glazing beads during removal so that they can be put in place during assembly.

Before installing the frame in the opening, screw the plastic brackets of the mosquito net with self-tapping screws, since it is inconvenient to perform the operation from the outside. Shifting the lower stand profile to the side, separate it from the frame, glue it with PSUL tape and put it back. Close the drainage holes of the windows with decorative inserts and proceed to installation in the following order:

The last stage is the installation of an ebb, window sill and plastic slopes on the window. The ebb is placed on a special compensatory lining, in the budget version - on polyurethane foam. The folded up fold is screwed with self-tapping screws to the stand profile. The window sill is mounted in the same way (do not forget to close the end with a decorative plug).

To finish the slopes, you need to insert the plastic panels into the starting bar, put the trim on the inner plane of the wall and attach with dowels. At the end, the joints of the window sill and slopes are sealed with silicone sealant, as demonstrated in the training video for installing plastic windows:

Features of installation in wooden houses

Walls made of timber or logs tend to "shrink" after construction and "breathe" throughout the year. If these factors are not taken into account when installing a metal-plastic window with your own hands, then the double-glazed windows will quickly crack from the load.

To compensate for the deformation of the tree, you need to make a pigtail of window openings with a sliding bar:

Note. In frame houses, shrinkage is not so great, so the casing is not made - the window is inserted into the finished opening.

Further installation of the window unit is carried out according to the technology described above, but with one caveat: the fixing dowels should not pass through the casing boards and screw into the main wall. Otherwise, the sliding beam will not work and the window will pull after the structure. Choose the length of the pins according to the thickness of the casing, as detailed in the video:

Conclusion

There are no particular difficulties in the technology of installing metal-plastic windows, but there are many little things that should not be forgotten. For example, if you do not glue the inner tape, then vapors from the room will get into the mounting seam, condensate will form, gradually destroying the foam due to freezing. A separate story is the insertion of inclined skylights. These works should not be done on your own, it is better to turn to professionals.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dahl with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Replacing old wooden doors and windows with plastic ones is still quite expensive. This very necessary and useful event can be significantly reduced in price, because a significant part of the costs is the remuneration of installers. Having some skills in working with ordinary household tools, the owner of the home will be able to install it on his own, you should only carefully read the material below.

Types of plastic windows

First you need to choose a suitable window, which is not so easy to do, because these products are available in a very diverse design.

Number of leaves

Windows up to 1.5x1 m in size are usually made single-leaf, larger ones - double-leaf, and the widest and highest - three-leaf. In some cases, when the size of the window goes beyond the standards, there may be more sashes. “Multi-leaf” should be avoided if possible, since the partition between the wings - the so-called impost - due to the characteristics of the frame profile is quite wide, especially if the doors open.

The main components of the plastic window assembly

For example, in a three-leaf window, they reduce the glazing area by about 10%, and also significantly increase the weight of the product. It is advisable to install windows with no more than 2 shutters in the apartment.

leaf type

The following options are available:

1. Deaf. The simplest and lightest design, but blind windows are used extremely rarely, since they are difficult to clean from the outside.
2. Swivel (swing). Such sashes open in the same way as the sashes of a conventional wooden window.
3. Folding. The sash rotates relative to the lower horizontal edge, while its upper part extends from the frame. Such an opening mechanism is simpler than a rotary one, but it is only suitable for ventilation. To make it convenient to wash the window from the outside, there must be at least one swing sash next to the hinged sash.
4. Combined (turn-tilt). Today they are the most common. Thanks to the use of a complex mechanism, the sash, by turning the handle to one position or another, can be turned both into a folding one (in everyday life this is called the “ventilation mode”), and into a rotary one.

In one window block there may be different types of sashes

If there are several sashes in the window, they can be of different types. For example, in a tricuspid one, the outer doors can be rotary or combined, and the middle one can be deaf.

Number of chambers in a frame

In the process of manufacturing a profile, from 3 to 7 longitudinal cavities are formed in it - they increase the thermal resistance of the product. If the building is located in a region with a warm climate or it is unheated (outbuilding or garage, warehouse), a 3-chamber window can be installed in it.

In residential buildings in regions with a cold climate, it is necessary to install windows from a 5-chamber profile or at least a 4-chamber profile.

Profiles with 6 and 7 chambers are significantly more expensive than 5-chamber ones and are heavier, but at the same time they have almost the same thermal resistance, so they are not recommended to be purchased. It would be more rational to install a double-glazed window with a larger width.

Profile type by wall thickness

For use in residential premises, a profile of type "A" is intended, in which the outer wall has a thickness of 2.8 mm, and the inner one - 2.5 mm. In rooms where the microclimate is not so important, for example, in production, you can use windows from the profile of the "B" and "C" types with a smaller wall thickness.

The number of chambers in a double-glazed window

A double-glazed window can be assembled from 2, 3 or 4 sheets of glass, respectively, it can have one, two or three chambers. The more chambers - the higher the thermal resistance and sound insulation. In residential buildings today, in most cases, 2-chamber double-glazed windows are installed.

The most common are two- and three-chamber double-glazed windows

3-chamber ones surpass them in thermal resistance and sound insulation slightly, but they cost and weigh much more, so they are not recommended to be purchased. 1-chamber double-glazed windows are used only on balconies, in various unheated buildings, shops, etc.

Speaking about the "chamber" of the window, they can mean the number of cameras both in the double-glazed window and in the frame. Therefore, if we are talking about a 3-chamber window, you need to clarify which element has three cameras.

We recommend paying attention to double-glazed windows with increased sound insulation, in which the glasses are installed at different distances from each other. It is selected so that sound waves are extinguished by their own reflection.

glass type

Today, along with conventional glass in metal-plastic windows, energy-saving ones are used. They have an absolutely transparent metal coating that reflects infrared radiation. Energy-saving glasses are also called I-glasses. The double-glazed window assembled from them instead of air is filled with an inert gas - argon, xenon or some other.

Together with sputtering, this gives an increase in thermal resistance by 10-15%.

Some unscrupulous manufacturers offer buyers double-glazed windows filled with argon or xenon, but from ordinary glass. Such double-glazed windows are presented as energy efficient and are sold more expensive. In fact, the difference in thermal resistance with a conventional "air" double-glazed window is a maximum of 2%. Therefore, when buying, check whether there is a coating on the glass.

Also, double-glazed windows are made of tinted, tempered (if damaged, they crumble into small safe fragments) glasses, as well as triplex.

The form

Along with rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, hexagonal, arched, round and oval windows are produced.

Plastic windows can have the most unexpected configuration - from simple geometric shapes to their bizarre combinations.

Frame appearance

The frame can be not only white, but also colored, as well as laminated with a polymer film with a pattern that imitates the texture of wood.

Types of plastic doors

Doors, like windows, can also differ in a number of parameters: purpose, types of leaf and threshold, etc.

Purpose

By appointment, the doors are divided into:

• input;
• balcony;
• interior.

External doors are insulated (made of 5-chamber profile), often reinforced with steel sheet or grating. The profile wall has a thickness of at least 3 mm.

External plastic doors are made with insulation and reinforcement with a metal grill or sheet

In terms of heat and sound insulation characteristics, the balcony door does not differ from the entrance door, but it is less protected from breaking and has a mechanism that allows you to keep it ajar for the purpose of ventilation.

Balcony doors differ from entrance doors by the presence of a mechanism that keeps them in the ventilation mode.

The interior door is the simplest and is the cheapest. It has no insulation and protection against burglary.

The interior plastic door differs from the walkway and balcony in the simplicity of design

Canvas type

The fabric is of two types:

Two types of double-glazed windows are used in the doors:

• single-chamber: for interior doors;
• two-chamber: for external doors.

threshold type

Metal-plastic doors can be equipped with thresholds of three types:

Opening method

Many options are available:

• Swing: the sash rotates about the vertical axis in one direction.
• Pendulum: the door opens in both directions.
• Carousel: rotates in a circle.
• Retractable: the canvas is moved to the side, as if hiding in the wall or moving along it.
• Foldable: the canvas consists of several sections and can be folded like an accordion.

The sliding door leaf can be hidden in the wall structure or move along its surface

Strength class

There are three classes:

• class "A": the most durable doors;
• class "B": medium in strength;
• class "B": the least durable.

How to take measurements correctly

Before measuring the window opening, it is desirable to bring down the slopes in order to clearly see its boundaries. The quickest way to punch is with a puncher equipped with a special tool - a “shovel”.

Having exposed the main material of the walls, measure the height and width of the opening. Measurements must be made at several points along the opening, after which the smallest values ​​\u200b\u200bare chosen from the obtained values. In openings with a quarter, the measurement is carried out along the outer side of the opening, that is, the distances between the edges of the quarters are taken.

The dimensions of the window will depend on the type of opening:

• For openings with a quarter: the width of the window is determined by adding 3 cm to the width of the opening on the outside. The height of the window is taken equal to the height of the opening on the outside (that is, between the protrusions-quarters).
• For openings without a quarter: the width of the window is determined by subtracting two widths of the mounting gap from the width of the opening. The latter is 1.5-2 cm, therefore, you need to subtract 3-4 cm.

From measuring the width of the window opening, subtract two mounting gaps (in total, this value will be 3-4 cm)

The height of the window is calculated by subtracting two mounting gaps from the height of the opening and the height of the support profile.

The height of the plastic window is determined by measuring the opening, followed by subtracting the height of the support profile and two mounting gaps from the result.

The width of the tide and the window sill is selected based on how deep it is decided to place the window in the opening. Usually 1/3 of the wall thickness recede from the outer surface of the wall. Then the width of the tide will be 1/3 of the wall thickness + 5 cm.

The width of the window sill is calculated as follows: 2 cm is added to the distance from the inner surface of the window to the inner surface of the wall (the window sill will be wound under the window by this value) and the width of the protruding part, which should be such that the window sill overlaps the heating radiator under it by half of it (radiator) width.

The optimal length margin for the window sill is 15 cm. The margin can be reduced, but not more than 8 cm. It should be borne in mind that the window will look less attractive.

The scheme is an illustration of the concepts of quantities involved in determining the size of a plastic window, slopes and window sills

To determine the dimensions of the door frame, two mounting gaps must be subtracted from the width of the opening (they have the same width of 1.5–2 cm), and only one from the height of the opening.

Video: how to measure the opening under the plastic window

Opening preparation

Immediately before installing the product, the old filling is dismantled.

Removing old windows

It is performed in the following sequence:

1. The platbands are dismantled, if any. This can be difficult to remove fasteners. If nails were used in this capacity, you need to pry off the casing with a nail puller or a thin chisel and pull it slightly towards you to slightly pull the nails out of the frame. If, after this, the casing is returned to its place with a hammer blow, the nail heads will stick out of it, so that they can be grabbed by a nail puller or pliers. When unscrewing the screws, the tip of the screwdriver must be pressed into the grooves on the cap as much as possible so that they are not “licked off”.
2. The remains of the plaster on the slopes are knocked down with a puncher with the already mentioned "shovel".
3. Next, the sashes are removed.
4. Insulation and plaster fragments are removed from the gap between the frame and the wall.
5. The window sill is dismantled. The layer of cement mortar under it is knocked off with a chisel.
6. The frame mount is unscrewed, after which it is pulled out of the opening. You should not take care of the old window, as it is usually thrown away. Therefore, the frame can be cut if necessary.

Video: dismantling the old window

Dismantling old doors

Old doors are removed from the opening in the same way as windows.

Next, the opening must be cleaned of debris, paint and dust. In the doorway, the floor is also cleaned, since the threshold is an integral part of the metal-plastic door. The floor covering must be firmly attached to the subfloor.

After that, the wall is treated with a deep penetration primer.

Video: how to dismantle an interior door

Tools and materials

To install a window and doors, you need to have the following tools:

• a drill with an impact mechanism or a hammer drill, as well as drills for concrete and metal;
• screwdriver;
• level: bubble is only suitable when installing a door, but for a window you need to use a water level (spirit level);
• plumb;
• rubber mallet;
• pliers;
• knife or spatula.

The materials you will need are:

• dowels or anchor bolts;
• a balloon with mounting foam (if the installation is carried out in frost, you will need a special nozzle);
• special corners for wedging windows (can be replaced with wooden blocks).

Self-installation of plastic windows

Prior to installation in place, the sashes and double-glazed windows must always stand in a vertical position, for which they are placed against the wall, laying cardboard on the floor. Items can only be placed on a flat surface.

Window installation

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Using a screwdriver or pliers, remove the pins from the upper hinges of the sashes (you need to take them from below), after which the sashes are removed from the hinges upwards. From a blind window, you need to remove the double-glazed window by prying the glazing beads with a knife or spatula.

   If the PVC window is equipped with opening sashes, they must be removed before installing the frame in the opening.

2. Marking is applied to the frame, indicating the position of the fasteners. The optimal step is 40 cm, 15 cm should be retreated from the corners and impost.
3. Having equipped the drill with a drill for metal, according to the markings, holes are drilled in the frame. You need to drill from the outside.
4. The frame is installed in the opening, while plastic expansion wedges in the form of corners are laid between it and the ends of the opening (can be replaced with wooden bars). Wedges should preferably be placed opposite the holes for fasteners.

   The verticality of the frame installation is controlled by the level

5. By adjusting the position of the wedges, the frame is installed so that the mounting gaps on all sides are of equal width.
6. With the help of a level and a plumb line, the frame is set in a strictly vertical position.
7. Through the holes in the frame, markings are applied to the wall.
8. Having removed the frame, they drill holes in the wall with a puncher equipped with a drill for concrete, holes for anchors or dowels 6–10 cm deep. Sleeves of fasteners are installed in the holes.
9. Re-install the frame and screw in the fasteners. At this stage, it only needs to be baited.

   The marking of the walls for fasteners is made through the already drilled holes in the frame

10. The position of the frame is adjusted using a plumb line and a water level, after which the fasteners are finally screwed. It is impossible to screw in dowels or anchors with force, as they will bend the profile. It is necessary to stop as soon as the hat disappears into the profile, or even when it protrudes from it by 1 mm.
11. Shutters or double-glazed windows are installed in place. You should check whether the sashes open easily, whether the hinges and other fittings work well.
12. The opening and frame are sprayed with water. After that, moving from the bottom up, the gap between the frame and the opening is filled with mounting foam in a circular motion. Filling should be done in several stages, each time treating a section 25-30 cm long. With this approach, the overspending of the sealant will be excluded (the mounting foam greatly increases in volume when it dries).

    The gaps between the wall and the window frame are filled with mounting foam

13. From the inside and from the outside, the seams are closed first with a vapor barrier tape (from below it should be foil), then with special flashings.

    A layer of mounting foam is protected on both sides with insulating material

Video: installing a plastic window in a panel house

Window sill installation

The window sill is screwed to the support profile after the window is installed.

The support profile is necessary for fixing the window sill and protecting the window from freezing.

You can not neglect the installation of the stand profile, as some unscrupulous installers do. In this case, the window sill and the ebb will have to be screwed to the window frame, as a result of which its tightness will be violated. In addition, without a stand profile, the window will freeze through.

The process of fixing the window sill is covered in detail in this article:

Slope installation

A window without slopes will look like an unfinished structure, through which, regardless of the number of chambers, cold will enter from the outside and heat will leave from inside the room.

Upon completion of all work, the protective film is removed from the metal-plastic profile. This should not be delayed, since over time the film diffuses into the PVC sheath of the profile, as a result of which its removal becomes quite difficult. After installation, a metal-plastic window cannot be opened for at least 16 hours, and preferably a day.

Installation of ebbs

From the side of the street, it is necessary to fasten the drainage to the stand profile using self-tapping screws. The junction must be absolutely waterproof, for which it is carefully treated with a sealant.

The edges of the drainage must be inserted into holes a few centimeters deep, specially cut out in the wall with a perforator.

Drainage installation procedure

So that the drainage does not make a “drum” sound during rain, it must be covered from below with mounting foam or pasted over with Linoterm tape or other soundproofing material.

Video: errors in the installation of plastic windows and what happens to the foam

Installation of plastic doors

The installation of a metal-plastic door is carried out in almost the same order as the windows.

So schematically, you can imagine the type design of a plastic door

Door installation

1. The fabric is removed from the hinges.
2. Holes for anchor bolts are drilled in the frame. There should be three on each side.
3. They determine the depth of the door in the opening and screw 4 dowels into the walls - two at the top and two at the bottom. They will serve as limiters for the box, which will greatly facilitate the installation of this heavy element in the desired position. The dowels must be in the same vertical plane, so the markings for the holes for them must be applied using a plumb line.
4. The box is installed in the opening, resting it against the limiters, and with the help of wedges, give it the correct position: the mounting gaps on the right and left must be of equal width, the racks must be located strictly vertically (we control the plumb line or level).
5. Through the holes in the box, markings are applied to the walls, after which the box is removed and holes for anchors or dowels are drilled in the walls according to the markings. They need to hammer sleeves for fasteners.
6. Set the box in place and screw it to the walls. First, the fasteners are only baited, and finally screwed after the box is leveled or plumb.
7. Install the door leaf in place.
8. Fill the mounting gap with polyurethane foam.
9. If the width of the mounting gap exceeds 4 cm, then in order to reduce the cost of foaming (mounting foam is an expensive material), it is recommended to partially fill it with foam, wooden slats, drywall or plywood.

Video: installation of a plastic door

Slope installation

Then slopes are installed. The installation process looks like this:

1. Cut off the exposed mounting foam.
2. Clean the opening from plaster, paint, wallpaper, etc.
3. Cracks and crevices are sealed with cement-sand mortar.
4. Remove the protective film from the metal-plastic profile.
5. A frame is formed from wooden slats with a section of 20x40 mm, screwing it with dowels 6x60 mm to the wall.
6. Parts are cut out of plastic panels with a shape and size corresponding to the slopes.
7. Screw the panels with screws to the frame.
8. Lubricate the seams with sealant, cover the caps of the screws with a composition to match the color of the panel.

Now you need to remove the remnants of the protective film from the profile.

Instead of anchors for fastening windows and doors, you can use special mounting plates, which are embedded into the PVC sheath of the profile on one side, and rest against the walls on the other. With this method of fastening, it is not necessary to drill holes in the profile, however, in terms of its strength, it is significantly inferior to fastening with anchors.

Features of installation in a wooden structure

Due to the shrinkage characteristic of wooden buildings, it is recommended to install metal-plastic windows in them at least a year after construction, and preferably two. If the house is built from glued beams, the exposure time can be reduced, since this building material is made from well-dried wood and therefore shrinkage is very small.

The window is first fixed in a wooden frame, knocked down from bars impregnated with an antiseptic, and then installed in this form in the opening. The frame serves as a protective frame that prevents the window from deforming in case of shrinkage of the structure. To minimize the effect of this phenomenon, a gap of 3–7 cm wide is left between the wooden frame and the upper edge of the opening (depending on the moisture content of the wood and, accordingly, the expected shrinkage value). The gap is filled with stuffing from jute insulation.

A wooden frame is attached to the opening with self-tapping screws.

Since the tree has some vapor permeability, the mounting foam used to seal the cracks must be protected from moisture. For this purpose, the wooden frame and the ends of the wall in the opening are pasted over with a tape of thin polyethylene foam coated with foil.

Before installing a metal-plastic door, the doorway must be equipped with a so-called pigtail. It is also a frame made of timber and is designed to protect the door from the effects of a shrinking wall. In addition, the racks of the pigtails fasten logs or timber, the connection between which after the opening is somewhat weakened.

An okosyachka protects window and door blocks from deformations that occur during the shrinkage of a log house

To mount the pigtails in the side walls of the opening, vertical grooves with a section of 50x50 mm are cut out with a milling cutter. Racks are inserted into these grooves. Further, boards 50 mm thick and parallel to the walls of the opening are nailed to them and a width equal to the thickness of the wall.

From below, a threshold is nailed, made of a T-shaped profile bar 100 mm thick, and from above - a horizontal jumper (top). The top should burst the racks, while a gap of 15 cm should be left between it and the upper wall of the opening. The gap is filled with jute insulation and glued on both sides with a vapor barrier tape.

Video: what is a pigtail: two types of casing boxes

Rules of care and operation

To ensure that doors and windows last a long time, follow these recommendations:

1. The metal-plastic profile and fittings should be protected from dirt and dust during construction and repair work.
2. Also, the profile must be protected from contact with hot metal particles during welding or cutting metal products with a grinder.
3. Washing of the metal-plastic profile and double-glazed windows should be carried out using a soap solution or non-abrasive detergents, which do not contain acids and solvents.
4. Particular attention should be paid to the door threshold, which is most susceptible to contamination. When cleaning the room, it must be vacuumed.
5. At the beginning of the warm season, the pressure of the metal-plastic door should be weakened, and at the beginning of the cold season, it should be strengthened. The pressure is adjusted by turning one of the screws on the door hinges. In total, there are three screws on each loop, each of which, during rotation, moves the canvas along one of the mutually perpendicular axes.

Twice a year, it is necessary to carry out maintenance, which consists of the following:

• all moving mechanisms are lubricated;
• the drainage holes located below are cleaned of dirt (except for interior doors);
• the condition of the rubber seals is checked, if contamination is detected, they are cleaned;
• rubber seals are rubbed with silicone lubricants (prevent rapid aging of the polymer).

To lubricate mechanisms, oils without acids and resins should be used. These are, for example, engine oil and technical petroleum jelly. For outdoor fittings, frost-resistant compounds should be used.

Due to tightness, high thermal resistance and resistance to fluctuations in temperature and humidity conditions, metal-plastic doors and windows have by now turned out to be very popular. But the installation of such structures is not much different from the installation of conventional wooden counterparts. The instructions given in this article will help the user to cope with this task on their own, as well as create conditions under which windows and doors will last as long as possible.

Today, the owners of houses and apartments are massively replacing old wooden windows with practical and durable PVC structures. And this choice is justified for a number of reasons:

1. Due to the increased thermal insulation, material costs for heating are significantly reduced.
2. High functionality and modern materials make it possible to refuse additional work on window maintenance: tinting frames to give them an aesthetic appearance; caulking cracks for window insulation for the winter; release of the window from the insulation in the spring; pulling gauze on the sashes to protect against mosquitoes and other midges and other work that is implied during the operation of wooden window structures.
3. The sealed double-glazed window well isolates the room from noise, allowing you to maintain home comfort and protecting the peace of the owners.
4. Designs have a long service life while maintaining impeccable functionality and aesthetic appearance.
5. The cost of a plastic window is lower than a similar wood product. For example, the price of an unpainted double wooden frame without glass measuring 120x90 cm is 3,600 rubles, and a plastic window is 5,500 rubles. However, a wooden window will still need to be glazed and painted, and these are additional costs of time and materials. Whereas the plastic window is already ready for installation.

Those who are going to take up the installation of plastic windows with their own hands often lack basic knowledge of how to do it correctly. Therefore, we present this article here in the form of instructions to help owners who want to do the installation themselves.

Installing plastic windows has a number of nuances. For example, PVC windows are not such universal designs. And their use has a number of limitations. So, it is not recommended to use plastic windows in cold rooms without heating (verandas, canopies, attics, garages, baths, etc.). Incidentally, window manufacturing and installation companies prefer not to talk about this. In addition, problems may arise when installing PVC window profiles in multi-storey buildings above the 4th floor.

When choosing a contractor to replace windows in a house, you may encounter the fact that the masters simply will not delve into the intricacies of this issue. Those who are in control of the situation and can cover it comprehensively are few.

To begin with, let's try to deal with the question, does it even make sense to install PVC windows with your own hands? Contrary to popular belief, installing windows is not that difficult. To perform it, you do not need to stock up on professional equipment and gain special experience for a long time. The installation procedure itself consists of two stages:

• dismantling of the old structure;
• installation of a new plastic window.

Usually, dismantling takes from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. Direct installation of the window (we take an average window measuring 2x2 m) will take another couple of hours. It turns out that to replace one window, it will take a maximum of three and a half hours. Therefore, for Saturday-Sunday, you can freely change at least 2 windows without resorting to the help of specialists. Considering that installers charge $40-60 for each window installation, we get quite good savings. Some companies set the cost of installation as a percentage of the cost of windows. For different specialists, this amount varies and is about 10-40% of the price that is proposed to be paid for windows. Also, specialized companies, when ordering windows from them, can deliver a new design to your home and dismantle it free of charge.

Trusting the installation of windows to specialists, you can demand the following guarantees:

1. when buying windows from a third-party company, installers provide a guarantee only for installation seams and their filling, the correct geometry of individual elements and the functionality of the window structure for 1 year after the work has been completed. Since self-assembly practically deprives you of the warranty for window structures, you need to be more careful in choosing products. It is better to prefer windows made at the factory, in compliance with all technical requirements and conditions. Handicraft products are a “pig in a poke”, the quality and functionality of which can bring an unpleasant surprise. In this regard, to purchase window structures, it is advisable to contact directly a manufacturing company that has been operating on the market for a long time and has good reviews from numerous customers. By the way, if you order windows in winter or spring (i.e. out of season), you can get a significant discount;
2. when purchasing windows from a company that carries out installation work, the customer receives a guarantee for fittings - from one to 5 years (the more expensive the windows, the longer the warranty period, as a rule);
3. if the windows are installed with your own hands, then the guarantee for fittings must be requested at the place of purchase of the structures. You will have to take full responsibility for the quality of the seams.

Installation of pvc windows with your own hands should be done if available:

• a couple of free days (as an option - days off);
• diligence and desire to learn something new;
• desire to save.

If all of the above is present, then the recommendations outlined in this article will allow you to successfully replace the windows in the house, making it no worse than a professional installation team. Actually, a whole team is not required to install the window; two people will be enough, one of whom will perform the installation, and the other will hold the structure and supply the necessary tools. Despite the apparent complexity, self-installation of PVC windows is a rather simple process, which is a combination of several simple operations performed in a given sequence. Before proceeding with the installation, you need to order a window, and for this you need to correctly perform preliminary measurements. So…

Window measurements: everything you need to know

First, we determine the type of window opening.

It can be of two types: either with a quarter or without a quarter.

We take measurements of the window without a quarter

A clean window opening is the easiest to measure. Such an opening is found only in a new house. We measure the opening itself in a vertical plane and subtract 5 centimeters from the resulting figure. We have height. Of these 5 centimeters, 1.5 centimeters will be filled with mounting foam at the top of the window, and 3.5 centimeters will be laid for installing the window sill. Similarly, we measure the opening in the horizontal plane, subtract 3 centimeters for the gaps (1.5 cm each on the right and left) and get the width of the window.

Next, we measure the length and width of the ebb and the window sill. To the obtained dimensions, you need to add from 5 to 20 centimeters in order to “embed” the window sill a little into the wall on both sides. If you get down to business for the first time, then lay down the dimensions of the window sill more - during installation, all unnecessary will be cut off. As a rule, window sills and ebbs have a uniform width (10-60 cm) and length (up to six meters). With minimal dimensions, installers will be able to select and bring the most suitable parts.

We make measurements of a window with a quarter

Width: we measure the opening in the horizontal plane between the quarters and add three centimeters to the resulting figure (one and a half centimeters from each side). Height: measure the distance from the bottom edge of the opening to the edge of the top quarter. Nothing needs to be added or subtracted from the resulting figure.

The window sill and low tide are measured, as in the first version.

As a result, after all the measurements made, we should have recorded:

• window height and width;
• length and width of the tide;
• length and width of the window sill.

When replacing old windows, the previous structure is located in the opening, which means that it is impossible to measure the opening itself. Therefore, it is necessary to take measurements from the window frame, which will subsequently be dismantled.

When ordering a window, try to find out what comes with the windows. The following elements are usually included:

• windowsill;
• end caps. In order to choose the right plugs, it is necessary to indicate the width of the window sill (the protruding part from the wall);
• installation profile;
• anchor plates - structural fasteners.

If these parts are not included in the kit, you will have to purchase them additionally.

In addition to dimensions, other data may be required:

• profile type (number of cameras);
• double-glazed window option (number of glasses and air chambers);
• window opening type. The most common: swing, swing-out with ventilation, combined. In addition, in some cases blind windows are installed without the possibility of opening. The type of opening is determined by the fittings installed in the structure. The ease of use, functionality and durability of the window depend on the type and quality of the fittings. There are several types of window opening. For convenient ventilation, the window should be equipped with tilt-and-turn fittings. Deaf versions of the sashes are unsuitable for ventilation, ordinary folding ones without turning are inconvenient.

Thermal conductivity and sound insulation of the window: so that noise and cold do not get into the house

Thermal conductivity of plastic windows

In addition to the manufacturer, when choosing a window, it is also necessary to take into account such a quality as the thermal conductivity of the structure. According to SNiPs and territorial building codes, the heat transfer resistance coefficient of a window varies depending on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. Structures that are installed in residential premises should not have a heat transfer resistance lower than indicated for a particular region of residence.

Thermal conductivity directly depends on the design and type of glass used in double-glazed windows. If you order windows with energy-saving glass, the thermal insulation of structures increases by 10-15%. The cost of energy-saving glasses is about 250 rubles. for 1 sq. m.

The thermal conductivity of the window may decrease due to poor-quality installation, less often - factory defects. Very often, in the process of illiterate installation, a chip or crack occurs on a double-glazed window, and the design loses one of its main qualities - tightness. Visually, this manifests itself as fogging of the inner surface of the glasses. As a result, the room will become colder in winter, and the house will have to be heated more.

To improve the thermal conductivity parameters of the window, it is possible to prepare a support profile. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, the stand profile is the weakest point in the window structure. To fix the drain, it will have to be drilled, which will further worsen the thermal conductivity parameters. To normalize the heat-shielding qualities of the window, the internal volume of the stand profile can be filled with mounting foam. This should be done a day before installing the window so that the foam is completely frozen. Foaming of the stand profile by GOST is not provided, window companies also do not practice this operation.

Soundproofing properties of plastic windows

This parameter is essential if there is a busy highway or railway near the house. However, it is always more pleasant if external noises from the street do not penetrate inside the house. And this is impossible to achieve without high-quality soundproofing of the window.

How to install PVC windows: to unpack or not to unpack - that is the question!

When installing windows, you need to choose the type of installation - with unpacking (unpacking) or without unpacking. Do you want to understand how these two methods differ from each other? Take a look at the scheme of the plastic window.

• Frame- one of the main elements of the window. The frame is formed from a reinforced PVC profile and several sealed chambers. The number of cameras can vary from two or more.
• double glazing- the largest element of the window, occupies about 80% of its area. It is a hermetic structure consisting of glass. Depending on the number of glasses and air gaps between them, it can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. The double-glazed window fits snugly to the frame due to the seal.
• Glazing beads- parts that allow you to mechanically fix the double-glazed window to the frame.
• Impost- a separator, thanks to which the window is divided into several shutters. There are single-leaf, double-leaf, three-leaf, etc. designs.
• blind sash- sash without opening mechanism.
• Transom- opening sash.
• Podokonny(other names - bottom, mounting, stand) profile- load-bearing element of the window structure. It is necessary for the correct installation and fastening of the plastic window sill and external drain indoors.
• accessories- all moving parts of the structure designed to open, close, fix the transom when ventilating the room.

Window installation method with unpacking

(in some regions the term "unpacking" is used, the essence is the same). This method is based on a preliminary disassembly of the structure: glazing beads and double-glazed windows. After the through fixing of the frame to the wall, all removed elements are installed again.

To quickly and correctly unpack the structure, you need a strong knife or chisel. We insert a knife blade or a chisel between the glazing bead and the frame, gently knock the glazing bead out of the groove with gentle blows on the handle until a gap appears. Then we bend the knife (chisel) and push the elements apart with the wide side. We consistently do this with all the glazing beads that hold the double-glazed window in the sash. It is not recommended to do this procedure with the sharp end of the knife, as the risk of damage to the window or glazing bead increases. To remove the double-glazed window, be sure to wear gloves, otherwise you will injure your hands on the sharp corners of the structure. If the window is not deaf and there are sashes, remove them. If there is a transom in one of the wings, it is easier to remove it as an assembly without removing the double-glazed window. Everything, the design is ready for installation.

Disadvantages of the method: more time-consuming, lasts longer than installation without unpacking (on average, 30-60 minutes are added for each window). Often, in a window installed in this way, fogging of a double-glazed window occurs. In addition, the appearance of glazing beads (scratches, chips) may be damaged if they are inaccurately removed / installed. It is important to perform all actions clearly and carefully. After removing the packages, you need to put them in a safe place where there is no chance of accidentally hitting them and breaking them.

Advantages and scope of the method: installation of windows with unpacking is more reliable and gives a strong fixation of the frame to the wall. This method should be chosen in the following cases:

- it is planned to fix windows in multi-storey buildings (from the 15th floor). When installing windows on the lower floors, where there is no windage and gusts of wind, they can not be unpacked;

- Significant structures are to be installed. However, in this case, combined installation is allowed (the balcony block is attached without unpacking).

Window installation method without unpacking

This method does not require disassembly of the structure. That is, it is not required to remove double-glazed windows and glazing beads. The frame is attached to the wall not with dowels, but with fasteners pre-installed outside the wall.

Advantages and scope of the method: installation of windows without unpacking saves time, reducing the process as much as possible. This method is recommended to be used where there is no need for increased fastening strength: when replacing standard windows in private houses, as well as, as mentioned earlier, in multi-storey buildings below the 15th floor.

Installation of windows with and without unpacking: sequence, features, professional advice

The installation of plastic windows is specific, therefore, to perform this work, a special set of tools and materials is required, without which it is practically impossible to install windows correctly and accurately. If it is not possible to buy the necessary things in a specialized store, you can contact a window company - professionals will definitely find what they need.

• building plumb line and level
• screwdriver and perforator
• drill with a set of drills
• gun and mounting foam;
• hacksaw or jigsaw
• small crowbar or pry bar
• gun for silicone
• chisel or wide-bladed knife
• mounting wedges
• tape measure and pencil
• roll waterproofing material
• iron sheets (galvanized) and metal scissors (required for self-made plums)

The main stages of installing PVC windows:

• dismantling of the previous structure and window sill;
• preparing a new window for installation;
• frame marking for subsequent fastening;
• fixing fasteners to the frame;
• making holes for fasteners;
• leveling the plastic structure;
• fixing the structure in the opening;
• installation of the ebb (can be performed at the end of the process);
• intermediate adjustment of fittings;
• foaming of cavities between the window opening and the frame;
• window sill installation;
• final adjustment of fittings.

Each of the stages of installing a plastic window should be considered separately.

Dismantling of old window structures

Preliminary stage: preparing the window for installation

Windows with movable sashes are mounted closed. When installing a window in an open form, there is a risk of deformation of the structure (the foam that will fill the gap between the opening and the frame can bend the frame). After foaming, the window is left for 12 hours, during which it must not be opened. And to avoid accidental opening of the sash, you can postpone the installation of the handle until the window is installed.

It is not recommended to remove the tape with which the window surface is sealed to protect it from damage until the installation of the structure and finishing of the slopes is completed.

PVC window installation sequence

Mark on the frame of fasteners

We retreat from the corner of the frame 5-15 centimeters and outline a place for the extreme fixing element. You need to fasten the frame from 4 sides, the fasteners are located after 70-100 cm. If a stand profile is used, then the frame is not attached from below.

Fixing fasteners on the frame

Fasteners include self-tapping screws, anchor plates, U-shaped hangers for drywall.

Anchor plates and suspensions have the same cost - $ 0.05 (wholesale), $ 0.15 (retail). However, anchor plates are thicker than hangers. When buying, give preference to products made of thicker metal.

Fasteners must be firmly fixed in the metal frame of the frame. In order for the element to be well fixed, self-tapping screws must be taken for metal. Such products have a drill at the end and a diameter of 4 mm. You can also use simple self-tapping screws, only in this case you must first mark the holes in the frame with a drill.

Making recesses for fasteners

We place the frame with fasteners attached to it in the window opening, then we knock out recesses in the corresponding places in the opening (2-4 cm deep, similar to the size of the fasteners in width). Fasteners will be drowned in these recesses later. By following this procedure, we will make it easier for ourselves to finish the slopes.

Tip: when installing a window without a mounting plate, place blocks of wood or other dense material under it so that it rises to the height of the window sill. Then it will be possible to fasten the window sill not to the window frame, but under it. If there is a mounting plate, the frame will automatically rise to the desired height. Usually the mounting plate is already fixed on the frame and does not need additional fixing.

Alignment to the level of the window structure

This stage is the longest in the entire window installation procedure. However, by aligning the window in the vertical and horizontal plane, we automatically give it the correct rectangular shape. To level the structure, you need wooden wedges or bars that are placed under the frame. A pair of lower wedges is set first, and you can immediately fix the window on top with an anchor plate. Next we put two wedges at the top, then left and right at the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, a wedge must also be placed under it. During these actions, it is important to ensure that the vertical racks do not deviate into another plane. It is convenient to align the window with two people, when one supports the structure, the second inserts the wedges.

Fastening a window to an opening

Having achieved a perfectly even position of the window, i.e. having set it correctly in level, we can proceed to fixing the structure. To do this, use dowels (diameter 6-8 mm, length 75-80 mm) or anchors (diameter 6-8 mm). The latter have a higher cost, but provide a more secure fixation. They are recommended to be used if the wall consists of shell rock, brick or foam concrete. Mounting on anchor plates is used if the unit design contains a thermal insert and the frame in the mounting plane cannot be mechanically fixed. The dowel, driven into concrete, is able to withstand a load of up to 60 kg, which is quite enough to fix the window. For wooden walls, you can use self-tapping screws with a diameter of eight millimeters.

Tip: do not immediately tighten the screws on the sides of the frame completely, leave 1 cm to the stop. It is not necessary to screw in the construction screws in the upper part of the structure at all. The frame will not go anywhere, and you will have the opportunity to check the uniformity of the gaps on the sides and, if necessary, move the frame in one direction or another. After the final fastening, it will be more difficult to do this. If the uniformity of the gaps is satisfactory, the horizontal / vertical structure is maintained, you can completely fix the frame by screwing in the screws from above and tightening the remaining screws on the sides. After that, it is worth checking the horizontal and vertical structure again.

Fixing the ebb of the plastic window

Installation of ebbs can be done at the very end. Ebb can be bought ready-made, or do it yourself. It is best to fix this element under the window - this will prevent the penetration of water where it connects to the frame. Upon completion of the installation of the drain, the space between it and the profile is filled with foam. In the absence of the possibility of fastening the ebb under the frame, it is fixed directly to it, for which 9 mm metal screws are used.

Intermediate hardware adjustment

It is necessary to tighten or loosen the window hinges so that the sash moves silently and freely when opening and closing. The open sash must not close on its own. Properly adjusted hinges will allow it to stay in the right position.

When moving, does the sash “stripe” where the locking hardware is installed? Slightly move this element a little lower or higher.

Foaming the gaps between the opening and the frame

It is important to fill the gaps so that there are no voids left. Large gaps (more than two centimeters) are foamed in several stages, the interval between which is two hours. With this approach, there is no danger that the foam will deform the window when it expands. In addition, the consumption of mounting foam is saved, there is no excess that has to be cut off, and the quality of the mounting seam improves.

Since the foam hardens under the influence of atmospheric moisture, a lack of humidity in the room can lead to poor-quality polymerization. To avoid this, you need to lightly sprinkle water on the area between the window opening and the frame before foaming, and after filling the cavity, spray the surface of the foam itself with water. If the air temperature during installation does not exceed five degrees, then winter or all-weather foam is used. In warmer weather, summer polyurethane foam can be applied.

After the polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to protect it from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This stage can be combined with slope finishing. But if you don’t want to make slopes yet, or plan to do it later, then the foam must be closed immediately, because it quickly collapses due to exposure to direct sunlight. In this case, we prepare a cement-sand mortar at the rate of 1 part of cement and 2 parts of sand, or dilute the tile adhesive and cover the foam with any of these materials. In addition, you can purchase PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) at a hardware store and close the mounting foam with it. However, the cost of the tape is quite high (from $ 3 per linear meter), so the first options are used more often.

Window sill installation

1. Cropping. Window sills have a standard length and width and have a good margin, both in length and width. Before installation, the window sill is cut with a jigsaw, grinder or saw with small teeth.

2. Alignment by level. We move the window sill to the stand profile and set it on a level using wooden blocks or other materials at hand.

We close the side sections of the window sill with end caps. It is better to glue the plugs on the ends with super glue.

By pressing lightly on the window sill with your hand, we make sure that it does not sag. In some cases, the window sill is not installed evenly, but at a slight angle (no more than 3 degrees) “from the window”. Thanks to this slope, possible condensate does not flow under the window.

We foam the cavity under the windowsill.

After foaming, we put something heavy on the surface of the window sill (you can use plastic water bottles, books for this purpose) and leave it in this form for 0.5 days.

If you do not press down the window sill with a load, then it will bend upwards under the influence of foam.

3. One day is enough for the foam to completely harden. After that, its remains, ugly sticking out of the gap under the windowsill, must be cut off with a clerical knife.

4. If the window sill initially had irregularities, then during installation a gap may remain between its upper part and the frame. It is carefully filled with silicone. It should be borne in mind that this material has low biostability and may turn black from fungus. The gap will not appear if, in advance (before installation), galvanized iron plates in the shape of the letter “Z” are fixed on the window sill profile. In addition to the fact that these plates will allow you to tightly grind the window sill, they will simplify the task of leveling it.

Final adjustment of the window

At this stage, you can remove the protective tape from the window structure and finally screw the handle. If finishing slopes is delayed, then do not remove the tape until all finishing work is completed.

Possible errors when installing windows

We list here the mistakes that are often made when installing windows and can adversely affect the usability and service life of the structure:

1. Installation is carried out with glazing beads outward. This reduces the burglary resistance of the window, since in this case the glazing beads can be easily removed from the outside and the double-glazed window can be pulled out.
2. The window is poorly aligned, making it difficult to open and close.
3. Mounting foam is not protected from the rays of the sun, as a result of which it collapses.
4. Due to incorrect measurements or too low fastening of the window structure, the window sill cannot be placed under the frame and must be attached directly to it.
5. The window structure is not fixed by any fasteners and is held only by mounting foam. Then cracks may appear on the slopes, since foaming is not a full-fledged fastener. Over time, it loses strength and the window becomes so mobile that it can fall out.

We hope that after reading the article you will be able to successfully cope with the installation of PVC windows. And even if you decide to contact the installation company, you will be able to understand and control this process at all stages.

Installing PVC windows with your own hands is a simple process that does not require special skills or technological skills. Immediately after the delivery of new windows to your home, you can begin an independent installation, while spending a little time. But it is necessary not only to carry out installation - it is also necessary to prepare the workspace, stock up on tools and avoid possible mistakes that lead to negative consequences.

So, you already have ready-made PVC windows at home that you can install. First of all, it is necessary to dismantle the old window frames and prepare the working space for the subsequent installation of new double-glazed windows.

Dismantling is very easy - it only takes a few tools. This is a crowbar, a screwdriver, a hammer and a chisel. Dismantling is carried out as follows:

The first stage - we carry out the dismantling of old windows

1. First of all windows are removed. To do this, you need to use a hammer and a chisel (or a screwdriver). First, movable windows with frames are removed. To do this, gently pry with a screwdriver bottom loop, on which the window is attached, after which it is hooked upper loop. After that, several intense, but neat blows are applied from the bottom of the frame - so it should come out of the loops. If the movable window was not fixed tightly enough, then a small effort is enough to remove it from the hinges.
2. After dismantling the movable windows, it is necessary to remove the window sill. For this, a chisel and a hammer are taken, with the help of which the plaster is beaten in the grooves of the window sill. Set aside the tools and take the crowbar. With its help, the window sill is pushed from below (in the area between the window sill itself and the concrete slab) and loosened - for easy dismantling, it is necessary that the window sill “walk” freely. If there is any filler or fixing elements under the window sill (as a rule, old structures have wooden blocks for support), they are removed. After that, the window sill is carefully pulled off from the side of the frame with a crowbar and pulled forward with a few sharp movements. As a rule, old window sills are weakly fixed, so there will be no problems removing them.
3. The entire window frame is dismantled. Along the perimeter of the window, plaster is beaten off with a hammer - its thin layer hides the spacers on which the frame rests. Initially, wooden spacers are removed from the side. After that, with the help of a crowbar, a part of the window frame is extended.

As a rule, many builders neglect all the rules of dismantling - the wooden window sill is simply cut into pieces by a grinder, and the concrete one is broken with a puncher. The frames are also cut into pieces, after which they are taken out of the opening in separate pieces.

Preparation of the window opening and windows

After dismantling the old window frames, there will be a lot of construction debris. On the surface of the opening there may be remnants of old insulation, plaster and small debris (wood chips, sawdust, etc.). All this must be removed from the surface of the opening. Ideally, before installing new PVC windows, the window opening should be either neat brickwork (if the house is brick), or a flat and smooth concrete slab (if the house is panel). All irregularities, cracks and chips are covered with plaster and leveled.

Is the window opening ready? Then you need to check the condition of PVC windows. It is necessary to inspect the block for deformation, and then check the completeness of all parts. Be sure to check the availability of the following components:

• Windowsill;
• Plugs;
• Mounting profile;
• Anchor plates required for fixing the window;
• Installation instructions (some manufacturers provide it in one set with a double-glazed window);
• Accessories (handles, plugs for handles);
• Low tide.

After everything is checked, it is necessary to prepare tools for installation work.

PVC window installation tools

To install PVC windows with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• Building level;
• Screwdriver;
• Mounting foam and a gun for it;
• Perforator;
• primer;
• Hexagons (it is desirable to have 5-6 pieces in the set);
• Pencil or marker;
• Roulette;
• Paint brush.

As a rule, installers are limited to a smaller set of tools. But, since you need to do the right installation of a plastic window with your own hands, and these windows must be installed securely, it is recommended that you use the list above.

Taking window measurements

There are two ways to measure - with a quarter and without a quarter. Let's take a closer look at each of these methods.

Taking measurements without a quarter

A PVC window is installed in a cleaned and pre-prepared window opening. To order a window, you need to carry out the following calculations:

• Window height: five centimeters are subtracted from the vertical of the window opening;
• Window width: three centimeters are subtracted horizontally from the window opening.

The resulting gaps will subsequently be blown out with mounting foam. As a result, the following parameters are obtained: an indent of 1.5 centimeters is made on the sides of the opening and 2.5 centimeters each on the upper and lower sides.

After that, the window sill and drain are measured. Each value obtained must be increased by at least 6-7 centimeters.

Taking measurements with a quarter

Measurements are carried out as follows: the window opening is measured horizontally at its narrowest point. The resulting value must be increased by three centimeters - this determines the required window width. In the vertical direction, the length is measured from the base of the window opening to the upper quarter - this is how the height of the window is determined.

As a result of measurements, you should get indicators:

• Width and height of the window;
• Width and height of the window sill;
• Drain width and height.

Installation of PVC windows according to GOST

In most cases, GOST for the installation of plastic windows is purely advisory. However, we recommend that you adhere to the basic requirements - this is necessary, first of all, for the owner of the house.

There are two mounting technologies. Do-it-yourself installation of double-glazed windows can be done with unpacking windows and without unpacking. In the first case, it is necessary to completely disassemble the window - remove the glazing beads, pull out the double-glazed window, then fix the frame with anchor bolts in the opening, and then mount the double-glazed windows and glazing beads. In the second case, the window is not disassembled, but is fixed with the help of special fasteners, anchor plates, without the use of through fastening with dowels. The first method is considered more difficult and requires certain work skills. That is why we will consider only the second case, as the most preferable for the majority of the inhabitants.

We install windows

Before you start installing windows according to GOST, you need to create your own plan. This can be either a self-developed drawing or an instruction that comes with the manufacturer. Following the plan will help to complete the work without errors and with maximum accuracy.

The work is carried out as follows:

• The surface of a pre-prepared window opening processed by primer in order to ensure better adhesion with hydro- and vapor barrier tapes. Primer should be applied with a regular paint brush.
• We remove the packaging from the windows and glue on the half-perimeter of the frame PSUL sealing tape. This will provide additional protection for the mounting foam from the harmful effects of UV rays and precipitation.
• The window frame is installed in the opening. We will consider this point in more detail below.
• We fill the seam with mounting foam.
• The next step is to glue the frame internal vapor barrier. To do this, a vapor-tight tape is glued on the inside of the frame.

We use the following rules when installing a plastic window:

1. We put marks on those places of the frame where the fastening will subsequently take place.
2. Fasteners are attached to the frames from the sides, while maintaining a step of 50 cm. It should be borne in mind that the maximum indentation from the edges should be no more than 15 cm.
3. Fasteners - anchor plates - are attached to the window opening with self-tapping screws.
4. The window is placed on plastic mounting wedges at the building level. Any deviation must be avoided.
5. For additional fixation on the sides, mounting wedges or ordinary wooden blocks are used - they are inserted in the gaps between the fasteners.

• On the outer side of the window, after installing the frame, a diffuse tape is fixed under the ebb.
• The openings that remain between the window frame and the walls must be blown out with mounting foam.

Tip: When securing the window frame with fasteners, it is not necessary to tighten all the screws tightly. Only after the structure is finally fixed, you can bring the fasteners to the stop.

The window sill comes in one set with metal-plastic windows. The master himself determines what width he should have. Measurements are taken, after which the window sill is carefully cut to the desired length. Next, the window sill is installed as follows:

• A window sill is installed on wooden bars and adjustable in height. Adjustment should be carried out with the building level so that the window sill is strictly horizontal with respect to the window opening.
• After the position is finally established, the window sill is removed, plugs are put on its side parts. An adhesive mixture is laid on the wooden blocks, which are the basis for the window sill (it is recommended to use CM-11 or a similar material).
• The window sill is re-installed on the bars and pressed a little. With this procedure, it is necessary to use the building level, since the window sill during installation may lead a little to the side.
• After the adhesive solution is fixed, the space between the window sill and the window opening is blown with mounting foam.

Low tide installation

It can be installed as a home-made ebb, and the one that comes with the metal-plastic bag. If you purchase a drain, then you need to take into account that it is fastened with screws to the bottom profile, and the part of the window protruding above it should protect the junction of the profile with the drain. The drain itself is mounted extremely simply: a profile is attached to the window opening, after which, with the help of self-tapping screws, the drain is fixed on it. For additional protection of the attachment point, blowing with mounting foam is carried out.

PVC window sealing

Technological features of foaming are written on a cylinder with polyurethane foam. Each master can verify this on his own by reading the detailed instructions indicated on the cylinder. The foam polymerization process is catalyzed at high humidity. That is why, before starting the sealing process, it is necessary to moisten the places with plain water. In the absence of moisture, polymerization will not be of sufficient quality.

After the foam hardens, it must be carefully cut off with a regular clerical knife. Do this carefully so as not to damage the metal-plastic windows.

Tip: Do not try to fill the entire cavity of the assembly seam the first time. First you need to apply a little foam with a mounting gun, wait for it to swell, and then re-apply the required amount.

Common installation errors

Both beginners and masters can make mistakes when installing plastic windows. As a rule, the most common are the following:

• Carrying out incorrect measurements or lack thereof;
• Selection of unsuitable profiles for installation;
• Mounting on an uneven surface, or on a surface that has not been previously cleaned;
• Installation of PVC windows without level;
• Wrong fixing of the window. Some people either use too many fasteners or don't use them at all. There is only one result - the window can be deformed during operation;
• Installing a window at insufficient depth. If the window is placed too close to the inner edge of the window opening, a significant drop in temperature around the window is possible, and, as a result, condensation may form;
• Improper sealing. Mounting seams are either insufficiently blown with foam, or unevenly. This leads to the fact that after a few years of operation, the window begins to fog up and loses some of its advantages.

In order to avoid common mistakes, it is necessary to carry out installation exclusively according to the instructions and in compliance with technological features.

Conclusion

As a conclusion, I would like to note: installing pvc windows with your own hands does not present any difficulties. The entire process of installing one double-glazed window of medium size lasts for one day. This takes into account not only the installation process itself, but also the time spent on dismantling, cleaning and preparation. As a result, you will receive not only a reliable design, but also significantly save your own money.

We hope that our description of the technological process of installing PVC windows will help you in further construction work.

Installation of plastic windows photo

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Plastic windows are very popular. They well protect the room from cold, wind, qualitatively retain heat inside the room. It is important to know how the installation of double-glazed windows takes place, because it depends on its correctness whether the window will function as planned. If the double-glazed window is damaged, it is quite possible to replace it yourself.

What do you need to prepare before installation?

An important role is played by the preparatory work: without them it will not be possible to install according to all the rules, which can lead to a violation of the tightness of the window.

If you have an old window installed and you want to replace it with a new product, you will need to start working with dismantling, then you will need to clean the opening from debris, align it if necessary. If you want to replace only a double-glazed window, it will be enough to carefully pull out the damaged one from the frame: it is fastened with special glazing beads. Remains of broken glass must be carefully removed. Wear gloves as the edges may be sharp.

Before installation, it is necessary to correctly measure, finding out if there is a horizontal or vertical offset

What design to choose?

Installation does not begin with installation, but with measurements. They must be accurate, otherwise the new design will not fit. If you are afraid to take measurements incorrectly, invite a measurer. Well, if it is from the same company that will manufacture the double-glazed window for you.

Give preference to better proven manufacturers whose product quality has proven itself in the market.

The configuration is selected relative to the number of sashes of the future window and the method of fastening. It depends on how the double-glazed window will be attached. Usually there are two ways:

• Fastening through the frame in the same mounting plane.
• With the use of supporting reinforcement. Such fittings are already in the frame and placed there by the manufacturer.

Most often, the first method is used during installation, since it is easier to implement on your own, the weight of the structure is reduced, installation takes less time. If the sashes are deaf, you will need to remove the internal double-glazed windows. In the case of fittings, the circuit itself is a little more complicated, however, despite this, you do not risk damaging the double-glazed window during installation, accidentally damaging the frame or breaking the glass. You can install double-glazed windows hermetically, which is not always possible with self-installation in the first way.

If the window is under warranty, you should not change the double-glazed window yourself: this will deprive you of warranty service. If the glass is damaged, contact the installer.

How the window works

How is a double glazing installed?

The work takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare a place: clean, move furniture away from it so that it does not interfere with work; if the opening is uneven or there is debris, it must be cleaned and leveled with cement mortar.

Dismantling the old window

Opening preparation

After that, you can proceed to preparing yourself. To do this, you will need to remove the sash. At installation of a double-glazed window into the frame should not take place on weight, for installation it will be necessary to pull out the glazing beads, for which you can use a chisel and a hammer. Work should be done carefully so as not to accidentally break the glass.

Beads must be placed in the same place where they were previously, so it is better to number them immediately.

Pull out the bottom and side elements first, the top one last. The glazing bead should go in tightly, but not tight, if it does not fit into place, try another one: you probably mixed up the elements in places. If the sequence is violated, the double-glazed window will not hold firmly, small gaps will form that violate the tightness of the window. It is not necessary to remove the frame to install the double-glazed window.

Installing the frame in the opening

After the first steps are completed, you can proceed to the direct installation of a double-glazed window. Even with minimal experience, you will spend a little time on these actions. Installation is carried out as follows:

• In order for the installation of the frame to turn out to be even, special bars made of wood or plastic are placed at the bottom of the window. Most often, these elements are sold in the same place as plastic windows. The top edges of the substrates must be horizontal, this can be checked using a building level of the appropriate length or a laser level can be used for this purpose. If the line is slanted, the window will also skew, and it will not be able to function normally.
• After that, the structure is fixed with anchor bolts or mounting foam. Do not rush to pull out the bars: this must be done two weeks after the window is fixed.
• In order for the frame not to bend, pegs should also be installed on the sides or in the center. They will keep the structure upright.
• Whether the double-glazed window is located horizontally is checked using the building level. If it is uneven, you need to add pegs, aligning the structure to the desired plane. In order to find out if the window is vertical, use a plumb line.

Installation of a double-glazed window

It is more convenient to fix the frame first from below, on both sides of the corners. After that, you can move on to other attachment points. If fastening takes place with the help of anchor bolts, they should be tightened to the end only when the structure is perfectly level. Otherwise, there is a high risk of its deformation.

• Some structures are attached using the metal ears included in the kit: they already have holes for anchor bolts. Make sure that the hole drilled in the wall matches the hole on the lug, and the metal element itself fits as tightly as possible to the wall: this will eliminate unnecessary gaps.
• After that, a window sash is installed into which a double-glazed window is already inserted, and the cracks are sealed.

Knowing how to install double-glazed windows, you can save a lot if you need to replace the glass and do the work yourself. This does not require you to have building skills or buy expensive tools.