Sewerage technology in a country house. Overview of local sewers

Long gone are the days when the presence of sewerage in the house was considered something out of the ordinary. Today it is difficult to imagine a comfortable life without a sewer system. This is not only convenient, but also necessary in our time. If the city does not require any effort to conduct and connect the sewer, then in the countryside you will have to be smart, and sometimes spend a considerable amount of money. You can install an autonomous sewer system or try to connect to the sewer already installed in the village.

There are two types of sewer system:
- external: the essence of its work is to remove waste and transfer it for cleaning;
- local sewerage: designed for a separate country house. With its help, you can dispose of waste without connecting to a centralized outlet.

The main types of sewer system of a country house

Cesspool - a quick and inexpensive way

A cesspool is the cheapest and simplest, from a technological point of view, waste disposal method. The pit in appearance resembles a well, for the strengthening of which resistant materials are used (reinforced concrete rings, etc.). The principle of operation of the cesspool is quite primitive: water from the house falls into a deep pit, where all the waste accumulates. The water then passes through the ground and is evenly distributed underground. As a result, it takes a considerable amount of time to completely fill the pit. To clean the cesspool, they call for specialized equipment - a sewage machine. The disadvantage of such a sewer system is the significant consumption of water.

Cons of using a cesspool:
- unpleasant "aroma";
- biochemical pollution of the land;
- increased accident rate: in case of heavy rains, “troubles” in the form of fecal masses that “sailed” to the threshold of the house are not ruled out;
- a cesspool cannot be arranged in the same area where a well or water well is located;
- weak functionality, in case of heavy loads it may fail;
- from time to time you will have to turn to the services of a sewage machine;
- the response efficiency of special services involved in cleaning the pit is extremely low.

As a result, a cesspool is not the best option for a sewer system in a summer cottage.

Storage tanks as a variant of the sewer system in a country house

A storage tank is another simple type of sewer system for your country retreat. The use of this technology is more acceptable in summer cottages than in cottages or household complexes. Storage tanks are mainly installed in temporary settlements. The technological process is very simple: polluted water from the house enters a sealed container. There is a kind of conservation of waste water inside the tank. Water does not seep into the ground.

Pros and cons of this technology:
- fast filling capacity. As a result, the frequent need to call special equipment, about several times a month;
- due to the "preservation" of wastewater, your site is not polluted, thus, this system is considered environmentally friendly;
- depending on the needs of the family, there are different sizes of containers: from 2,000 to 50,000 liters;
- capacity can be hidden from prying eyes underground. The storage tank, in fact, is the same cesspool, but only protected and environmentally friendly.

Mechanical septic tank

What is its essence? The principle of operation of natural purification lies in the ability to filter wastewater. Installation of this device is possible only on the ground with deep waters. The level of cleaning provides a sectional device. Purified water seeps into a special layer of soil, where natural drainage occurs. For this, a layer of sand and gravel is used. Distinctive features of a natural septic tank are hidden installation and simplicity of the device. But, like any sewer system, it also has disadvantages: the need for regular maintenance by specialists, as well as daily monitoring of the operation of the device. On average, its volume is about 200 liters per person. From a financial point of view, mechanical is a fairly acceptable way of sewerage.

Choosing a sewer system for a cottage or country house

Before choosing one or another sewer system, you need to answer a few questions:
- The importance for you of the level of comfort, the absence of unpleasant odors, as well as aesthetics.
- Are you prepared for possible contamination of the site due to sewage?
- How much water do you plan to drain per day?
- Are there interruptions in the operation of the sewer system?
- Is a large load on the sewer system possible?
- Are you ready for a significant flow of water?
- Do you plan additional construction related to sewerage?
- How much are you willing to spend on the sewerage system?
- Priority is given to low cost or service life?

Only clear answers will help you avoid mistakes and make the right decision. For advice, you can always contact a specialized service.

It cannot do today without a well-equipped sewer system designed for the discharge and disposal of human waste. In the article brought to your attention, we will try to talk about how the sewerage of a country house is installed with our own hands, taking into account all the requirements for its arrangement.

Despite the abundance of offers on the market for such services, many users prefer to install the sewer network on their own. Indeed, the technique of manufacturing an extensive system for collecting waste and sewage is quite simple, which allows it to be mastered by anyone who does not do it professionally. This approach makes it possible to do without the involvement of third-party workers, which, of course, reduces the costs associated with its arrangement.

Waste collection system

A modern sewer system is a whole complex of equipment, which includes not only sewage collection devices, but also pipelines and special waste collectors (sumps).

The main functional purpose of such complexes is the collection of human waste (including wastewater) at the points of their generation and subsequent transportation to the place of final or partial disposal.

The device of the sewerage of a country house should be carried out taking into account the basic technological and environmental requirements. Sewerage must contain the following mandatory elements:

special trays for collecting waste;
an extensive network of pipelines or channels through which waste is transported towards the sump;
the sump itself, designed in the form of a cesspool or septic tank.

The installation of sewage in your own household should be carried out according to a well-designed plan, since any deviations from the standards can lead to disruptions in its operation (the formation of blockages, for example). In this case, there is a danger of contamination of areas with fecal waste, which is unacceptable if there are sources of drinking water near the house.

Outer contour

The so-called external sewerage circuit includes a system of pipelines that ensure the natural movement of waste from the point of collection (tray) towards the cesspool or septic tank. This method of organizing the collection of sewage is called drainage. In some cases, the transportation of waste through pipes is carried out under pressure (pressure) created using special pumping equipment that is part of the system.

Based on the foregoing, even at the design stage, it will be necessary to clearly determine how the waste will be delivered to the sump (natural flow or under pressure). The choice of the location of the sump (drainage well), as well as its depth, will depend on this circumstance.

It goes without saying that when using the first of these options, the level of the cesspool (septic tank) is chosen below the level of the pipeline route, which provides the required slope towards the prefabricated device. In the second option for the delivery of effluents to the sump, carried out by means of a pump, the level of sewage installation (including its individual components) is not critical.

The location of the pipe laying route in this case is practically unlimited, so that the latter can be selected based on the convenience of organizing earthworks. The only technological requirement for laying pipes is that their bending angle always exceeds 90 degrees. Fulfillment of this requirement significantly reduces the likelihood of blockages. When choosing the optimal location for the waste collector, the previously noted requirement must be met (no closer than 5–7 m from a residential building).

Installation of the drainage system

The installation of a drainage system in a suburban area is usually started upon completion of the construction of the walls and roof of the main residential building.

When carrying out work, the following sequence of installation operations must be observed:

First of all, a trench breaks out at the site for pipes laid from trays or other waste collectors towards the sump. At the same time, the possibility of natural movement of wastewater through the pipeline is ensured by its slight slope (2–2.5 cm per 1 linear meter).
Then the bottom of the prepared trench along its entire length is covered with a sand cushion.
After that, it will be possible to start laying the pipe line, at the end section of which the joint of the pipeline with the sump must be sealed. For these purposes, you can use a sealant.

When laying pipes of various materials, the following recommendations will need to be considered:

Installation of polypropylene pipes should be carried out in special concrete boxes that protect products from mechanical damage. But PVC pipes can be laid directly in the soil (without the use of a special protective casing).
The depth of the pipe sewer is chosen based on the known requirements for laying waste communications, which should be above the freezing point of the soil in the area. For central Russia, this indicator is selected from the range from 1.2 to 1.4 meters.
In the event that the winters in your region are very cold, additional insulation of the pipeline will be required using any insulation material suitable for this purpose.
Now it remains to connect the whole system together.

Construction of a cesspool

The most common type of autonomous waste collector is an ordinary cesspool. The principle of operation of such a sump is very simple and is as follows. In the process of accumulation of sewage entering the pit through the sewage system, the light fractions contained in them are gradually utilized by seeping into the soil. After some time, when only heavy fractions remain in the pit, the latter are removed from the sump using appropriate equipment (as a rule, special sewage trucks are used for these purposes).

To place such a waste collector, the lowland is most convenient, which greatly facilitates the subsequent installation of the drainage system. When choosing a suitable place for it, it is also necessary to provide for the possibility of preparing a small access area for a sewage truck.

Before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the requirements of the epidemiological standards governing the permissible volume of sewage pits (as a rule, this indicator is selected at the rate of 0.6–0.7 m³ per person), as well as the distance from residential buildings and sources of drinking water. In addition, certain restrictions are imposed on the materials used to equip such structures.

When choosing these materials, most users proceed from the availability and reasonable cost of products used to form the walls of the cesspool. At the same time, preference is most often given to ready-made industrial structures, such as reinforced concrete rings, for example (diameter - about 2 meters, height - about 1.2 meters).

When carrying out earthworks, it is necessary to remember the following details:

The preparation of the pit for reinforced concrete structures is carried out taking into account a small diameter allowance, which ensures the convenience of mounting the rings, as well as the possibility of placing a waterproofing layer on them.
In the process of work, the estimated depth of the well can be slightly adjusted, which is explained by the requirement that the cut of the upper ring be located just below the soil level (this allows using a standard concrete slab with a hatch as a floor).
Before laying the first ring, the bottom of the pit is first reinforced and then concreted. Between themselves, the rings are fastened with the help of special fittings, after which the gaps between them are sealed with mortar.

You can watch a video on the arrangement of the sewer system below.

Video

This video is about a sewerage device in a country house:

The disposal of sewage is one of the difficulties faced by the owner of a country house or cottage. Incorrectly mounted can become a source of unpleasant odor and disruption of the ecological balance on the site, therefore, when designing, it is important to take into account all sanitary standards. This article will tell about the types of local sewer systems and how to install them.

Sewerage device in a private house

The main difference between local sewerage and centralized sewage is the need for independent neutralization and neutralization of wastewater. When connected to a centralized sewer, an internal one must be installed to connect to a common collector or riser.

Mounting a local system is somewhat more complicated, because it consists of:

internal wiring;
external sewer network;
, sump or .

Install. It is a system of pipes connected to plumbing fixtures. The diameter of the pipes is different: Ø40 mm is enough for a drain from a sink or sink, Ø50 mm for a bath or shower, Ø110 mm for fecal drains, sunbeds and risers. Currently, pipes made of PP or PVC are mainly used; cast-iron pipes can still be found in old houses.

Plastic sewer pipes have a lot of advantages: light weight, easy installation, smooth inner walls that prevent the formation of plaque and deposits. For internal installation, gray pipes are used - they are resistant to high drain temperatures.

For external wiring, plastic pipes of increased strength are used - when laid in the ground, they must withstand its weight. They can be distinguished by the orange color of the plastic - it is clearly visible in the ground, which reduces the likelihood of damage to the laid sewer during earthworks.

Connect plastic pipes with o-rings or special glue, while the socket should be located against the flow of water. Branches and turns are performed using special fittings - couplings, bends, tees and crosses. When connecting, it is important to avoid sharp and right angles that contribute to the formation of blockages.

Receivers for local sewerage can be of several types:

sealed wells;
wells with a filtering bottom;
settling wells;
septic tanks with mechanical cleaning;
biological treatment stations.

Septic tanks purify drains much better, treated water entering the soil is safe for the environment. Biological treatment stations at the outlet provide purified technical water suitable for garden and vegetable garden irrigation, as well as fertile sludge.

When considering the feasibility of installing a particular system, it is important to consider several factors:

volumes and composition of effluents;
the area of the site and its relief;
proximity to water sources and reservoirs;
proximity to groundwater and the possibility of flooding;
installation region and its climatic features.

The volume of drains is calculated based on the composition of the family, 200 liters per day for sanitary needs are taken as the norm, it is also necessary to take into account the water consumed by the washing machine or dishwasher.

Effluent may contain only water for domestic and sanitary needs or its mixture with fecal effluents. In the second case, effective cleaning is possible only with the installation of a sealed container, a settling system, a septic tank or a biological treatment plant. Wells with a filtering bottom do a poor job of cleaning mixed drains, in which case a persistent unpleasant odor may appear. Another option is to separate the drains and use different treatment methods for them.

The possibility of installing sewerage in accordance with sanitary standards depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe site. and other objects must be at least as shown in the figure. If these requirements are not met, it is better to install a sealed tank or biological treatment plant.

Note! In a summer cottage of a small area with water intake from a well, it is easiest to separate the drains: drain domestic and sanitary water through the sewer into a well or septic tank, and provide for human waste.

With a close location of groundwater and the possibility of flooding, the installation of local sewerage should be carried out taking into account these conditions. The bay of a well or a sump threatens to infect the soil and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. With a sharp rise in groundwater, a septic tank may emerge, which will lead to the destruction of the external sewage system.

Poorly anchored in the ground septic tank after flooding

There are several standard solutions to this problem:

installation of a sealed storage tank that does not allow the flood of groundwater;
installation of a vertical septic tank with anchoring;
arrangement of a drainage system for the removal of groundwater;
in case of poor absorption of treated effluents - installation of forced pumping and post-treatment systems.

The climatic conditions of the region affect the possibility of freezing of the system. External sewerage pipes are laid below the freezing level of the soil or insulated and equipped with a heating system using a special electric cable. A septic tank and a biological treatment plant in cold regions also need to be insulated.

Note! When installing a storage tank or a septic tank, it is important to provide a convenient access for a sewage truck!

Installation of internal sewerage

The rules for installing internal sewer wiring do not depend on the type of septic tank and are always carried out using the same technology. Before starting installation work, it is necessary to draw a sketch indicating all plumbing fixtures and room sizes.

If plumbing fixtures are installed on two or more floors, they try to place them one above the other - this facilitates the work of the sewer system and reduces the number of communications. According to the sketch, the required number of pipes and fittings is calculated.

Tools required for work:

hacksaw for plastic or metal;
fine-grained file;
level and tape measure;
clamps for fixing pipes to the wall.

When installing pipes, they try to select in such a way as to obtain a minimum number of connections. If it is necessary to cut pipes, use a hacksaw or a jigsaw with fine teeth. The desired segment is sawn off strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe, burrs are cut with a sharp knife, and a 15 ° chamfer is removed from the outside with a fine-grained file.

Note! Connecting fittings must not be cut! They are selected from the available range, and the fit is performed by straight pipe sections.

The pipes are connected using an o-ring or sealant. Mounting with an O-ring is easier and less time consuming. To connect the pipes, sections of the required length are cut off, as described above, lubricated with silicone grease (in case the pipes are tight) or liquid soap to facilitate sliding, and bring the smooth end of the pipe into the socket until the risks. After that, the pipe is taken out in the opposite direction by 9-11 mm. This allows the ring to seal the joint tightly and also provides clearance for thermal expansion.

Step 1. Installation of internal sewerage begins with the installation of risers. They are made of pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, installed strictly vertically. The installation location of the risers is determined by the project, most often they are located in the bathroom or toilet. The pipes are leveled and fixed to the wall with clamps. When connecting straight sections of pipes, make sure that the sockets are directed upwards. In the right places, tees or bends are installed.

Step 2 At each lapel or branch, in places where congestion is most likely to form, sewer risers are equipped with a revision. If the pipes are laid hidden in the wall, an inspection hatch must be made at the installation site of the revision.

Step 3 Each riser is equipped with a fan pipe of the same diameter, brought out through the floors to the street. It (pipe) is necessary to remove gases and reduce noise in pipes, it cannot be combined with a chimney or ventilation system!

Step 4 Horizontal sections of the sewer are mounted to the risers through the installed tees and bends. Their length should not exceed 10 m, while it is necessary to provide a slope of 2 cm per 1 linear meter. m for pipes Ø110 mm and 3 cm per 1 running. m for pipes Ø50 mm. If a 90 degree turn is required, use two 45-degree bends or three 30-degree bends to ensure a smooth transition and reduce the chance of blockages.

Step 5 Horizontal sections at the joints are also equipped with a revision - a tee with a cover. The branch of the tee is set strictly up so that water does not ooze through it.

Step 6 Connection to plumbing fixtures is performed using a siphon - it prevents gases from entering the sewer into the room. In addition, debris, sand and other contaminants accumulate at the bottom of the siphon, which can lead to clogged pipes. They are quite simply removed during revision using a removable cover.

The diameter of the pipes for connecting the points must correspond to the diameter of their outlet. The transition between pipes is carried out using a transitional coupling or, when combining pipes from several devices, by means of tees with different branch diameters.

Step 7 The toilet bowl is connected to a horizontal pipe Ø110 mm using bends or a flexible coupling (depending on its design and type of outlet). The water seal in this case is provided by the design of the toilet bowl.

Step 8 Risers, and in one-story houses - horizontal pipes, are connected to the external sewage system. It is better to do this by connecting three 30-degree bends - this will ensure a smooth drain of water.

Note! When using a storage sealed container, it is recommended to install a check valve at the exit from the house to prevent the release of malodorous gases.

sewer inspection prices

sewer revision

Installation of an external sewer network

For the external sewer network, plastic pipes of increased strength orange or cast iron are used. The depth of laying pipes without insulation and heating should be below the depth of soil freezing.

Step 1. Prepare a pit for laying pipes using special equipment or manually. The trench should be as straight as possible, without turns. Its length of more than 20 meters is undesirable, since in order to ensure the desired slope, the pipe and septic tank will have to be deeply buried.

Step 2 Pipes are laid, connecting them in the same way as pipes for internal sewage. When laying, observe the necessary slope in all areas; to ensure it, you can use sanding with its strait and tamping.

Step 3 The passage of the pipe through the foundation is carried out through metal sleeves laid at the stage of pouring the foundation. They are segments of a metal pipe with a diameter of 130-160 mm, passing through the foundation at a depth below the freezing of the soil at an angle of 2-3 degrees. The ends of the pipes must be exposed on both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm. The pipe is led into the basement and connected to the outlet of the internal sewage system of the cottage. What's happened , you can read in our article.

Step 4 The second end of the external sewer network is led into a septic tank or sump of the selected type. When using an industrial septic tank, it is enough to connect the pipe to the inlet pipe. When installing a concrete well, the pipe is led into the prepared hole, wrapping it with foam insulation to avoid damage. Coat the injection site with cement mortar.

Step 5 Backfilling of the trench is carried out with soil removed from it. On wet and heavy soils, especially when laying pipes with a heating cable, it is recommended to first fill the pipes with coarse sand in a layer of 20-30 cm, and then with natural soil. This will improve the outflow of groundwater and prevent freezing.

Installing a sealed sump

A concrete well with a concreted bottom and plastered joints can serve as a sealed wastewater receiver. It is installed no closer than 5 m from the walls of a residential building and 2 m from a neighboring site.

Step 1. A pit is prepared for concrete rings of the required depth with a diameter of 20-30 cm more than the diameter of the rings. Work is best done in dry weather immediately before installing the well so that the soil does not crumble.

Step 2 Install the bottom of the well and the required number of rings (usually no more than three). The joints are sealed with cement-sand mortar.

Step 3 An external sewage pipe is brought into the well, as described above. Carefully isolate the joint with foam and cement mortar.

Step 4 Close the well with a lid and install a hatch for pumping out, as well as a ventilation pipe through which gases will be removed from the well. This tube should be above the breathing zone.

Step 5 Backfilling is done with sand mixed with dry cement. When the soil is moistened, the cement will seize, which will ensure reliable fixation of the well and sealing of microcracks and pores in concrete.

Note! Instead of a concrete well, you can use a plastic container - for example,.

Installation of a well with a filtration bottom

A feature of the filtration well is the ability to purify effluents due to the activity of soil microorganisms. At the same time, the volumes of drains are limited (1 m 3 per day), the well itself is placed no closer than 5 m to a residential building.

Step 1. They dig a pit with a size of 2x2 m and a depth of 2.5 m. Its walls are covered with geotextiles, and 0.5 m of coarse-grained sand is poured onto the bottom.

Step 2 A layer of crushed stone 0.5 m is poured onto the sand, a plastic filtration well is leveled and a plastic filtration well is installed with perforation of the walls in the lower third of its height. The walls of the well are also wrapped with geotextiles.

Step 3 The walls of the pit prepared for the drainage well are wrapped with geotextiles. A layer of sand 0.4-0.5 m thick is poured onto the bottom, then a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness. A drainage well is installed from perforated concrete rings. A pipe Ø50 mm is inserted into the filtration well, providing a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter of pipe length. Backfilling is carried out first with crushed stone, and the upper 0.3-0.4 m with soil excavated during the preparation of the pit. Equip the well with a lid with a hatch and a ventilation pipe.

Note! A well with a filtration bottom can also be made of concrete rings, bricks, car or tractor tires.

Installation of settling wells

The settling tank system is an improved version of the filtration well. Consists of two wells connected in series, the first well has a hermetic concreted bottom, and the second one is equipped with a filtration bottom layer.

In the first well, the effluents are settled, they are separated into a solid fraction, which settles to the bottom, and settled water. Through the overflow pipe, water from the first well enters the second, where residual filtration and disposal of wastewater by soil bacteria takes place.

The advantage of such a system is that it allows for the efficient treatment of large volumes of effluent, especially when multiple sealed sumps are installed. The solid fraction is periodically (about once a year) pumped out of them.

A simplified version of the sump is a perforated pipe laid in a layer of crushed stone over a sand cushion.

Step 1. Prepare pits for sealed and filtration wells. The technology of their preparation is described in the previous sections.

Step 2 Install a sealed well with a concrete bottom. Install an inlet pipe Ø110 mm and an overflow pipe Ø50 mm so that the height difference between them is approximately 20-30 cm. The well is equipped with a cover and a hatch.

Step 3 A drainage well is installed from concrete rings placed on a layer of crushed stone for sand preparation. To avoid silting, crushed stone is wrapped with geotextile. A pipe Ø50 mm is inserted into the filtration well, providing a slope of 3 cm per 1 m of pipe length. Equipped with a cover with a hatch and a ventilation pipe. Perform backfilling with soil excavated during the preparation of the pit.

Note! Specialized plastic containers can be used as wells, while it is important to equip good drainage so that the sealed container does not float.

Installation of a mechanical septic tank

The principle of operation of a mechanical septic tank is generally similar to a system of settling wells: several chambers connected by an overflow pipe are placed in a durable plastic case.

Once inside the septic tank, the effluent is divided into fractions, clarified and treated with anaerobic bacteria. Water, purified by 80-90%, after the septic tank enters the filtration chamber or filtration field, where additional purification takes place.

A septic tank is installed at a distance of 5-15 m from the walls of a residential building, a filtration chamber - in any convenient place on the site, the maximum distance to the septic tank is limited to 40-50 meters. The volume of the septic tank is determined by the number of family members permanently residing in the house, while you can focus on the data from the table.

Table 1. Required volume of a septic tank.

Installation sequence

Step 1. Pit pits are being prepared for a septic tank and a filtration chamber. A layer of sand 10-15 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pit for the septic tank to level the bottom and prevent damage to the septic tank by stones or other solid inclusions. The bottom of the pit for the filtration chamber is covered with geotextile and covered with crushed stone by 40-50 cm.

Step 2 Expose the septic tank and the filtration chamber on the prepared base. Pipes are connected using a level and providing the desired slope. The supply pipe must be equipped with a branch for ventilation if a fan pipe is not installed in the risers. The filtration chamber is also equipped with ventilation.

Step 3 Perform backfilling of pits. The space around the septic tank is covered with a sand-cement mixture to avoid its displacement or ascent. The filtration chamber is covered with ordinary sand. The layer of sand is 15 cm above the upper level of the chambers.

Step 4 A layer of insulation is laid on top of the sand - polystyrene foam in slabs. Cover with soil up to the surface. At the same time, the hatch for pumping out sludge should be 10-15 cm above the backfill level; it is necessary to provide a convenient access for the sewage truck to it.

Note! The figures given and the installation technology are general; for a specific septic tank model, their own conditions can be determined.

Installation of a biological treatment plant

Biological treatment plants differ from septic tanks in their more intensive wastewater treatment, but, given the price, they are rarely installed in a private house. The device of the biological treatment station is shown in the figure.

Video - Autonomous sewerage of a country house

As can be seen from the article, local in a country house can be implemented in many ways, from relatively simple and inexpensive to high-tech. With the right choice of cleaning system, you can provide the necessary level of comfort both in a comfortable cottage and in a small country house.

More and more people prefer to live in a private house, leaving the bustling city. However, the construction of a country house implies not only the construction of a foundation, walls and roof, but also life support systems, one of which is sewage. It is necessary to consider in more detail the sewerage device in a country house.

Rice. 1. Scheme of the internal sewerage of a country house: 1 - Riser; 2 - Toilet bowls; 3 - Shells; 4 - Bath; 5 - Connection; 6 - Tank; 7 - Ventilation.

Many people prefer to equip the house from the inside with their own hands. Someone does not trust specialists, and someone just wants to save money - after all, construction work is quite expensive.

Sewerage construction should begin with design.

If the system needs to be built in a large cottage, it is better to entrust this matter to a specialist. If the installation of sewerage takes place in a small house, you can draw up a project on your own. It’s good when the kitchen, bathroom, toilet and other points with drainage are located nearby - in this case, it will be easier to design and install the system with your own hands. However, it should be remembered that the installation of sewers is not an easy task, and it is best to prepare informationally before starting work, collecting information from special literature.

Components

Rice. 2. Diagram of a septic tank.

So, the sewerage of a country house is represented by three parts:

internal sewerage;
external sewerage;
septic tank.

Internal sewerage is:

a pipe system to which all plumbing devices are connected - bathtubs, toilets, sinks;
a riser that runs through the entire height of the house. From above it is brought to a certain height to ensure ventilation, from below it is connected to the outlet to the drain well.

External sewerage is a system of pipes leading from the internal sewerage of a house to a septic tank and a sewage treatment system.

A septic tank is a container for collecting and treating wastewater from a country house. You can either make a septic tank yourself or buy a ready-made one (the second option is the most preferable).

The diagram shows the sewerage system of a country house:

Riser (Ø100 mm) (1); Toilets (2); Sinks (sinks) (3); Bath (4); Ventilation (7).

Various pipes can be used to build the system:

polymeric;
cast iron;
asbestos-cement;
ceramic.

It is unlikely that anyone will currently work with cast iron or concrete pipes, despite their durability and good qualities. It is better and easier to mount a PVC pipe system - they are light, durable and easy to build sewers.

Basic Rules

The toilet is connected to the riser separately. The pipe connecting the toilet and the riser should not include other plumbing devices - this can lead to the fact that when flushing, liquid is sucked out of the siphons of other devices, which will lead to an unpleasant smell in the living room.
The rest of the plumbing fixtures must be connected above the level of the toilet bowl, otherwise, when flushing, sewage may occur in other devices.
All plumbing fixtures can have a common water drain pipe - with the exception of the toilet.
The diameter of the drain pipe should not be less than the diameter of the pipe of the plumbing fixture.
For the toilet, a pipe of at least Ø100 mm is used, for other devices - at least Ø50 mm.
The length of the pipe from the toilet to the riser does not exceed 1 m, for other devices - no more than 3 m.
It is necessary to observe the slope of the pipes - from 2 to 10 cm per 1 m of the pipe.
Do not make sharp corners in the system. The permissible value of the angle is 30-60°.
Special attention should be paid to sound insulation. Usually the pipes in the house are sewn up with drywall and covered with a layer of mineral wool.
In the riser, it is necessary to make a hatch for revision.
The riser must be ventilated. In its absence, a vacuum in the system is possible, liquid is pumped out of all siphons and an unpleasant odor occurs in the living room. Sewer ventilation is not related to home ventilation.
The external sewage pipe is located below the freezing level of the soil under a slope. A non-return valve can be inserted into the pipe to prevent flooding of the building's basement in the event of an overflow of the septic tank.
Each device in the house must be connected to the sewer through a siphon, which creates a layer of liquid and prevents the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the living room.

Construction stages

The construction of the sewerage of a country house can be divided into points:

Preparation of a pit for a cesspool or septic tank.
Preparation of a ditch for the external sewerage.
Installation of the internal sewerage system - plumbing fixtures, riser, their connection.
Installation of a septic tank.
Combining all parts into one.

To dig a pit for a septic tank, it is best to call an excavator - it will take him a couple of hours to work. When digging by hand, it can take several days or even weeks. Currently, there are a sufficient number of plastic septic tanks on the market - light, durable and affordable, so it makes no sense to make a septic tank yourself from concrete or other materials, as this will take a lot of time and money. A modern septic tank is shown in Figure 2.

Before installing a septic tank, it is necessary to determine its location. It should be no closer than 5 m from the dwelling, it is better that it be located in the lowest place (if any). At the bottom of the pit, you need to pour a layer of rubble (10-15 cm). The septic tank must be buried to a sufficient depth - at least 1 m (to prevent freezing of the contents).

Digging a ditch for a pipeline from a house to a septic tank is possible both manually and with the help of an excavator. The main requirements are the location of the pipe below the freezing soil layer and a slope of 5-10 cm per 1 m of pipe length. It should be remembered that PVC pipes for internal and external sewage are used differently, this should be taken into account when purchasing materials.

Internal sewerage

For the internal sewerage of a country house you will need:

plumbing fixtures provided for in the project - bathtubs, toilet bowls, sinks, washing machines;
a sufficient number of pipes of the required diameters - 110 mm and 50 mm;
connecting parts - tees, crosses;
valves and filters (in the event that it was provided for in the project).

The first stage is the installation of the riser. After that, the wiring provided for by the project is assembled.

Main points of work:

The riser must be installed vertically, without deformation.
Ventilation is provided in the upper section of the riser.
When installing the wiring, it is necessary to ensure that pipe connections are not located in walls and ceilings.
Be sure to observe the slope of all outlet pipes (5-10 cm per 1 m) so that the water leaves the system on its own and does not stagnate in it.
Pipe connections are sealed with rubber cuffs and silicone sealant (if necessary).
The edges of the sawn pipes are deburred with a file.

Subject to all the rules, the sewerage system of a country house will last for many years.

Not only an important, but also an obligatory component of a comfortable stay is a trouble-free sewerage system for a country house that does not require labor-intensive maintenance - what to choose as a sewage facility depends on many factors. The principle “the most expensive is the best” has long lost its relevance. The amount of investment should be justified by the extent to which the chosen model meets the requirements. The latter, in turn, are determined by the operating conditions. Thus, before you purchase a ready-made model of a utilizer or start building with your own hands, you should carefully calculate both the parameters of the sewage system and choose its type and develop a communications scheme.

Before deciding which sewage system to choose for a country house, it is necessary to find out what capabilities different types of structures have and what conditions are necessary for their trouble-free and trouble-free operation.

Storage device

This type of utilizer has the simplest device, which means that the purchase of materials (or ready-made containers) and installation will be cheaper than with any other option. Local sewerage for a country house of this type has a number of disadvantages.

Cesspool or fill up fairly quickly, since such systems do not provide for the purification and disposal of treated water. To clean the sewer, you will need to call a sewer truck, and this is a paid service. Nevertheless, even this type of sewerage can be not only in demand, but optimally suitable. If the country house is visited periodically and only in the warm season, while the number of people gathering on the summer weekends on the site is not large, then the installed capacity will not be filled too intensively, and it will not be necessary to call vacuum trucks often.

The storage tank for the sewerage of a country house is suitable only in case of periodic residence in it and for a small number of people

Note: There is also the possibility of constructing a cesspool without a bottom, if the volume of waste per day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. It will have to be pumped out less often, but the environmental friendliness of such a structure leaves much to be desired.

septic tank

Local sewerage for a country house with a septic tank is one of the most popular options. Such popularity is explained, among other things, by the variety of possibilities. The utilizer can be built independently or purchased ready-made, select the number of chambers and the degree of purification.

From the point of view of the need to clean the tanks, a septic tank is a compromise between a storage tank that does almost no waste processing and an expensive and practically waste-free local treatment plant (VOC). In septic tanks, solids decompose and settle with the formation of a liquid that can be drained through the filter layer into the soil. Thus, the filling of the tanks is much slower. The involvement of special equipment to empty the sewage tanks will be required quite rarely, if at the design stage you do not make mistakes when calculating the required volume of the structure.

It is more difficult, and it will require spending money to install it. The purchase of a ready-made factory model will cost more, but it will save a lot of time. Self-construction is, on the contrary, cost savings if you need to spend time and effort. An additional advantage of a do-it-yourself septic tank is the ability to create a design in strict accordance with the needs and taking into account the layout of the site. The volume and geometrical parameters of the sewage tanks in this case are not limited by the model range in the same way as the shape of the tanks.

Local treatment plants

If you are planning permanent residence in a cottage, and you need sewerage for a country house, what to choose is decided taking into account the intensive operation of the system. Building a VOC with your own hands will not work, but the cost of such structures is quite high. However, if we invest in the purchase once (many companies offer free installation when buying, and this should be taken into account when considering offers), you get maximum comfort.

Local treatment plant - complex volatile device, the balanced design of which allows to achieve almost complete cleaning of sewage effluents. After processing the contents of the sewer, water is obtained suitable for irrigation (purification of up to 98% of impurities) and fertile environmentally friendly sludge - a free and effective fertilizer.

Materials for manufacturing

Since the question of which sewer is better for a country house is in most cases decided taking into account the cost of the project, special attention should be paid to considering the properties and qualities of the materials that are used to build do-it-yourself utilizers. Each of the sewage options has its advantages and disadvantages, however, their significance and degree of influence on the choice depends on individual conditions.

Car tires, used - a budget option, which is more often used for the construction of cesspools in summer cottages. A more solid structure for a fairly intensively used sewerage system from such a material will be difficult to build.
concrete mortar It is used for poured construction into the formwork, which makes it possible to obtain reliable and durable structures, which, after appropriate processing, acquire water resistance. Advantages of the material: ease of transportation, the possibility of construction without the involvement of lifting equipment. The disadvantage of flood structures is the length of construction time. The walls of septic tanks from concrete mortar are poured gradually, at a time to a height of no more than 50-70 cm after the previous layer has gained strength.
have the same performance characteristics as products obtained by the pouring method, however, they can significantly save time during construction. Finished blocks are stacked on top of each other. After that, it remains to seal the seams and cover the external and internal surfaces of the tank with a waterproof composition. The lack of material is the large weight of the blocks, which requires spending money on renting lifting equipment for transportation and installation.
Brickwork- a compromise. The construction of such tanks also takes time, but in this case there is no need to wait for time to develop strength. The disadvantage is the need to spend money on the purchase of bricks, although a secondary brick can be used to build a septic tank after the dismantling of old structures or leftovers after building a house.
Plastic containers or eurocubes convenient, but require special attention during installation. So, to prevent floating during a flood, they are fixed on a concrete base, and the existing metal outer frame is sometimes reinforced by pouring concrete. The advantages of eurocubes for sewerage are their complete water tightness, simplicity and high speed of installation.
The use of plastic eurocubes is an inexpensive popular option for self-manufacturing a septic tank

Finished models and their features

Before making a choice between self-construction and the purchase of a ready-made sewage treatment plant, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the most popular models on the market.

Read about how it is done in a separate article.

We talked about home-made septic tanks from Eurocubic tanks. The material is inexpensive and fairly easy to install.

How to sewer into the house, you will learn at. Nuances of installation of internal and external communications.

Topas

Energy-dependent equipment that does not require devices for post-treatment of wastewater. The need for pumping out appears once every 4 months. Sewerage is pumped out using built-in pumps. Installation of the structure can be carried out in any soil. The degree of purification is 98%.

The cost starts from 76,000 rubles.

Tank

A series of non-volatile models with a biofilter with the need for soil post-treatment. The contents are pumped out using a cesspool machine once a year. When used as equipment for soil post-treatment of wastewater after a septic tank, the degree of purification can reach 98%.

On the picture

For such a local sewage system for a country house, the price will be about 36,000 rubles (model for 3-4 residents), but there are cheaper and more expensive options, depending on the required volume of the septic tank.

Tver

Energy-dependent treatment facilities with four levels of wastewater treatment. Can be installed in any soil. Cleans sewerage by 98%. A special difference from similar models from other sewer manufacturers is that the compressor at the Tver septic tank is located not in the equipment itself, but in the house. Cleaning can be done manually, using fecal pumps or a cesspool truck once a year.

During a power outage, it can work for several days as a regular non-volatile mechanical cleaning septic tank.

Prices start from 56,000 rubles.

eurobion

A volatile treatment plant that does not require additional work to pump out the contents. Sludge removal is carried out by automatically turning on the built-in drain pump. For the most effective cleaning, the installation of a filtration well is required. Mounting in rocks and quicksand is not allowed. Wastewater treatment by 98%.

Such a cleaning station will cost at least 62,000 rubles.

Triton

Non-volatile three-chamber Triton-T models with the need to arrange filtration fields for efficient wastewater treatment. The sediment is removed once a year.

Also in the line there are such models as Triton-Mini, Triton-Micro and Triton-N (accumulative capacity).