What you need to connect the water heater. How to connect a water heater to electricity - mistakes, choice of cable, sockets, machines

A household appliance that heats tap water for the use of homeowners is called differently. The word "boiler" comes from the English verb "to boil", which means "to boil". That is, the unit for heating water is in the English vernacular expression "boiler". In Russian-language technical documentation, the word "water heater" is used - it covers most of the meanings associated with a unit that heats water for domestic needs. After choosing and purchasing such a device, the question arises connecting the boiler to the water supply. It is within our power to do it with our own hands without the involvement of expensively paid labor of specialists. But first you need to understand the types of water heaters and the rules for choosing them.

Devices for heating water to the temperature desired by the user may have a different device and configuration.

The range of water heaters is very extensive.

According to a single classification basis, all boilers can be divided into types:

• according to the method of water treatment - storage and flow;
• by power source - electric and gas;
• by form factor - cylindrical, flattened, rectangular;
• according to the location of the connection - vertical and horizontal;
• according to the degree of activity - indirect and active;
• according to the installation method - wall and floor;
• by type of control - mechanical and electronic.

The variety of the presented equipment serves for the most complete and adequate satisfaction of heterogeneous user needs. For example, for a private house with an autonomous gas or solid fuel boiler, an indirect heating boiler is perfect. It does not contain a built-in thermoelement, and the water in it is heated by a heating boiler. By the way, such units are usually floor-mounted, so that it is more convenient to connect them to a similarly located boiler. In the conditions of an apartment building, this option is unacceptable.

Storage electric boilers

It is for this type of water heating technique that the word “boiler” has been entrenched in the mass consciousness.

A typical representative of the budget segment

The source of energy for heating is the household electrical network. Structurally, the boiler is a container filled with water from the water supply. The built-in thermal electric heater (or simply heating element) raises the water temperature to the set value. The thermostat helps him in this - a device that fixes the temperature of the water and turns off the heating when the required values ​​\u200b\u200bare reached. Usually it is combined with a scale and a switch, on which the user himself can set the parameter he needs. For the most part, electric boilers are wall-mounted units. This is due to the desire to save space in the small space of bathrooms and kitchens.

The filling can be both electronic and mechanical. The advantage of such devices is their universality. It is rare that a dwelling is not connected to electrical networks. Sometimes this is the only type of energy source in the area where the house is located. For apartment buildings, installing a boiler where there is neither centrally supplied hot water nor gas is becomes the only solution for minimal comfort. Also, the boiler becomes an indispensable assistant in those apartments where there are frequent interruptions in the supply of hot water, or it is supplied by the hour. In addition to the high power consumption of such a product almost no cons. The device is completely safe if the installation rules are followed.

More information in the article about electric storage for an apartment and connect it. Information about the main advantages of storage tanks, as well as the nuances that should be taken into account when hanging a boiler.

Flow electrical appliances

Structurally very simple, and even much more compact than other models.

Takes up almost no space

They are in demand when installed in those places where there is physically no room for a large boiler. Such a boiler is a curved channel, along which a heating coil is laid by the entanglement method (external placement of the coil) or by the coaxial cable method - the coil in a waterproof tube is located inside the channel through which water moves, repeating all its bends. To heat water to the desired values ​​under high pressure, it is necessary that the thermoelement heats up very quickly and to high values. That's why the power of flow devices is always higher than y - about two or three kilowatts. But the heater works only at the moment when the water is turned on - the rest of the time it is inactive, blocked by special fuses from accidental operation. A possible area of ​​application is points with episodic and short-term water intake, for example, washstands or shower heads. Getting a bath of hot water in this way will already be costly.

Gas storage devices

This type is rare, although it is one of the most economical in terms of water heating costs. The reason is that where it is possible to use gas to produce hot water, instantaneous water heaters are much more often installed. The temperature regime given out by the gas burner is more than enough to heat the flowing water. Instantaneous water heaters are more compact than storage water heaters, so most users do not see the point in installing a larger household appliance. To install it, a full-fledged chimney duct with working ventilation is required. The open type burner consumes air directly from the room. Given the small volume of bathrooms, a constant supply of oxygen is needed for combustion so that the air does not turn out to be stale. Significant advantages of this type of boilers - high heating rate and economic efficiency.

A rare guest in Russian apartments

Geysers

Such units are almost never called boilers, because a special name has been assigned to them - columns. Entire houses and neighborhoods in which there is no central hot water supply, but there is a connection to the gas main, are equipped with flowing ones. They have been known since Soviet times, but since then they have become much more compact, more accurate, safer and “smarter” thanks to the electronic control board. The heat exchanger through which the water runs during the heating process is always smaller than the storage tank with the burner, especially when it comes to volumes of more than 50 liters. The gas consumption is slightly higher than in accumulative gas appliances, but still cheaper than to heat water with electricity.

Compact and economical

Prices for popular models of gas instantaneous water heaters

Gas instantaneous water heater

Video - All about water heaters. Choosing a water heater, operating principle, installation, start-up

How to choose the right boiler

When choosing, you need to take into account the various parameters of the boilers, and focus on the most suitable one.

Shape and size

At first glance, the shape of the boiler creates only an aesthetic effect and does not affect the design in any way. However, in combination with volume, and hence the size of the device, the shape can make use more comfortable.

The buyers of an electric or gas water heater are faced with the question of the volume of water that will constantly be spent on domestic needs and must be accumulated in a heated tank. In this case, it is impossible to make a calculation by simply adding up the approximate rate in 30 - 50 liters per person - then the figure will turn out to be too impressive. This is not necessary, since all family members never use hot water at the same time and do not drain their entire rate at one time. But much depends on the nature of the points of water intake.

Volume matters a lot.

For example, if a shower cabin is installed in the apartment, then the flow rate will be one, and if a spacious bathtub that is filled several times a day is much more. Approximate recommendations for choosing the volume of the storage tank are given in the table:

Table 1. Approximate volume of a boiler per family.

Number of people	Minimum volume, l	Optimal volume, l
1	30	50
2	50	80
3	80	100
4	100	120
5	120	150

As can be seen from the table, the optimal capacity for a certain number of people in a family is at the same time the minimum capacity of the device for a family with more than one person. This means that the boiler can be operated, and in most cases its volume will be enough, but there is an increased risk that, with intensive use, one of the family members may get cold water.

Small boilers of 30 or even 20 liters will be convenient not as the main one, but as a point source of hot water, for example, for a kitchen sink or a washstand. Among the most typical form factors in which water heaters are made, two options prevail:

• cylindrical;
• flattened.

In this case, the ratio of the metric characteristics of a cylindrical boiler is different. Many 50-liter variants are equipped with tanks that are large in diameter but small in height. It is optimal to place them at a certain height, under the ceiling of the bathroom - then they do not “eat up” the usable area, and you won’t have to hurt your head about them. Boilers of larger capacity are made vertically elongated. While maintaining the volume, this allows you to reduce the thickness. Any cylindrical boiler convenient for installation in a corner.

Typical corner location

Flattened boilers appeared on the market later than cylindrical boilers as an attempt at a more ergonomic solution. They have rounded edges and corners, so they do not look bulky and heavy. But their plus is not only in appearance. Due to the flat design of the boiler in 100 - 120 liters has a thickness two or more times less than its cylindrical counterpart. Such units can be placed not only in the corners, but also on an open wall.

Modern boilers can have not only a lower communication connection, but also a side one, and even a top one. The layout of the inlet and outlet fittings does not affect the operation of the device, it is designed for ease of connection. When choosing a boiler, immediately figure out where you are going to place it, and what will be the molding of the connecting pipes or flexible hoses. So, for the lower location under the sink, the upper location of the mounting pipes is provided. A side connection scheme is common for flat horizontal boilers.

Prices for popular models of indirect heating heaters

Indirect heating heaters

Tank material and thermal insulation layer

Since manufacturers have been producing different types of boilers, disputes have not ceased between users about which tank is better in terms of performance. Basically, tanks are made with enamel coating and stainless steel.

Enamel is applied to the inner surface of the tank, which consists of ordinary iron. The stainless steel tank is homogeneous but has a welded seam. The warranty for devices equipped with different types of tanks can range from 1 year for enameled and glass-ceramic tanks to 5 years for stainless ones. This indicates a longer service life of stainless steel as a material in contact with water.

Interior view of a stainless steel tank

But enameled boilers have one indisputable advantage - an affordable price. This trump card for many buyers overrides other considerations. In addition, with proper operation and the presence of a magnesium anode, which reduces the deposition of solid deposits on the walls and heating elements of the water heater, the latter has successfully served its owners for more than one year.

Other characteristics

Each boiler has a certain group of features that do not directly affect its operation, but can optimize operation and make it more convenient:

1. Control type. The mechanical system contains a sensor of a physical type, which, when a certain water temperature is reached, expands and opens the electrical circuit that supplies the heating element with current. The sensor is connected to a handle and a graduated scale. All boilers, regardless of the type of control, are equipped with LED indicator, which signals the readiness of water in the device. Electronic control is a button or touch panel, to which, in boilers with a price higher than the average value, a display is also attached, which displays all information about the state of the unit. Electronic control is more accurate and reliable, but it has a higher risk of breakdown, and its repair will cost a considerable amount.
2. Degree of protection. Users rarely pay attention to this parameter, but in vain, because the safety of use depends on it. Since it is theoretically possible for water to come into contact with conductive materials in a boiler, it must have protection in case of breakdown of the heating element is provided. A ground loop is also required.
3. Hull thickness. The thicker the walls of the boiler, all the better, after all, a layer of heat insulator is laid between the outer shell and the inner tank. The better it is, the less water in the device will cool down during the day, if you do not even open the tap.

Sometimes a remote control is included.

Connecting the boiler to the water supply

After the choice is made, and the box with the boiler is unpacked, you need to take care of installing and connecting the unit to the water supply and electrical network.

We hang on the wall

It doesn’t matter if you hang in the kitchen or in the bathroom, the main thing is to choose a load-bearing wall.

An example of fastening to the ceiling, if the walls are made of plasterboard

A boiler filled with water can weigh over one hundred kilograms, so it is not allowed to install it on interior partitions, walls and other fragile structures. The load-bearing wall is usually made of concrete or brick. For hanging you will need:

• perforator;
• two hook anchors;
• building level;
• roulette;
• wrench.

Boiler installation - step by step instructions

Hang the boiler like this:

Step 1. Use a tape measure to measure the distance between the mounting eyes of the boiler. At the height where the boiler will hang, mark this distance with a pencil. Level check the coincidence of the holes with the horizon.

We measure the distance between the fixing eyes of the boiler

Step 2 Use a hammer drill to drill holes in the wall a little deeper than the length of the anchors. The diameter of the holes should allow you to insert the anchor into tension, slightly knocking them out with a hammer. Throw a wrench onto the nut and tighten the fasteners alternately on both hooks. The anchor tab will spread apart and securely jam the anchor into the wall.

We drill holes in the wall a little deeper than the length of the anchors

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

Step 3 Take the boiler and put it on the hooks with its eyes, tilt it slightly towards the wall. If the device is large, invite an assistant, especially if you are hanging from a stepladder or stool.

We put on a boiler

Connecting to pipelines

All manufacturers mark the boiler nozzles in blue and red. The first is connected to the cold water supply, the second crashes into the hot water distribution. There are several points to consider before connecting the boiler to the water supply.

Much will depend on the type of plumbing. If you have open type pipes, then you just need to remove the excess so that access to them is convenient. To tap into hidden pipes, you will have to remove the tiles and gouge channels to access the pipes. This installation should be timed to coincide with the renovation of the bathroom.

Boiler connection diagram

Boiler can be installed to help to centralized hot water supply. In this case, the outlet of the water heater is also carried out through a tee into the hot main. At the entrance to the apartment and at the exit from the boiler, stopcocks are installed without fail. With their help, you can block the hot channel from the boiler room and use only the boiler, or vice versa, shut off the supply from the boiler in case of its maintenance.

Pipe connection - step by step instructions

Threaded fittings are required to connect metal-plastic pipes. For polypropylene - a special soldering iron, which can be rented at a hardware store. If you got inlet metal inlet pipes, and you are not going to change them to plastic, then you can arrange all the wiring on flexible hoses - in an external metal braid or with an internal sealing jacket. At the ends of metal pipes, threads will need to be cut to screw on the adapters. Let's take this option step by step.

Step 1. Locate the entry and exit points for the boiler pipes. It is most convenient to do this in ready-made branches. Such a node will be the removal of cold water to fill the toilet bowl. There is already a tee in the pipe. All you need is to buy another tee and screw it onto the existing thread. Do this with fum tape to avoid leaks. Tighten with an adjustable wrench or gas wrench.

We find the entry and exit points of the nozzles for the boiler

Step 2 After the cold water tee is installed, take a flexible hose and connect the cold water connection on the boiler to one of the outlets on the tee. At the second exit, screw the hose removed earlier to the toilet bowl. A safety valve must be installed at the inlet. It serves as an emergency pressure relief in case of excessive water heating.

We connect the pipe of cold water on the boiler

Step 3 Find a place on the hot main where you can fit the tee. This can be done where water taps are connected in the bathroom or in the kitchen. The faucet pipe nut is unscrewed, a tee is placed on the fum tape, then the outlet to the faucet is screwed back onto one of the outlets, and the hot water inlet from the boiler is screwed onto the free one. On the branch pipe of the water heater, marked in red, be sure to install a flag-type shut-off valve so that the boiling water from the boiler can be shut off at any time.

We find a place on a hot highway where you can embed a tee

Step 4 Check the operation of the boiler by opening the hot water tap and turning off all shut-off valves. Air will come out of the faucet until the tank is full. As water accumulates, it will flow from the tap, after which it can be closed and the boiler plugged into the network. If there is no grounding in the socket, it is necessary to ground the boiler forcibly through a steel wire.

Checking the performance of the boiler

Video - Connecting the water heater to the water supply

Attention! It is forbidden to connect the ground to radiators, steel baths and other metal objects. If you live in a low-rise building, weld the wire to the pin and hammer it into the ground. In a multi-storey building, contact the management company.

Connecting an electric storage water heater is a popular solution for the production of hot water; you can install the equipment yourself. This device is installed for continuous hot water production, and EWH also serves as a backup source of hot water supply in case of temporary absence of hot water from the heating plant.

Device and algorithm of EWH operation

The storage water heater consists of the following main elements:

1. heating element;
2. Thermal insulation;
3. Decorative case;
4. Control system;

Water heater tanks are usually made of steel, polymer ones are much less common. Vessels made of black steel have an inner surface coating of enamel, glass-ceramic.

Another type of tanks are vessels made of high-quality stainless steel. They have a higher cost, but this is offset by a long service life. Two threaded fittings are cut into the tank - cold water inlet and hot water outlet.

Water heaters made of black steel are equipped with a magnesium anode - this device slows down the process of corrosion of the metal walls. The anode is replaced with a new set within the period specified in the manufacturer's documentation. This device increases the service life of the device, but the stainless tank still outperforms the black tank in this indicator.

A heating element built into the container acts as a heating element. The heating element is mounted on a thread and is easily replaced in case of failure. The main cause of problems with the heater is the formation of deposits of hardness salts (scale), deterioration of heat transfer, overheating and subsequent combustion.

Thermal insulation is applied to the surface of the tank, usually by spraying. It is designed to maintain the temperature of the water, save electricity due to a decrease in the frequency of switching on the heating element, and maintain the accumulated volume of water at the desired temperature.

The decorative case is made of plastic or metal, it has built-in controls - a temperature gauge showing a thermometer (or a digital display).

The algorithm of the device is quite simple. The device is filled with water from a water supply or a water supply tank. The handle sets the heating temperature. The heating element turns on, heating occurs. When the set temperature is reached, heating stops.

When cooling down, heating is regularly switched on to maintain the temperature value. When water is used up, the heating is switched on continuously.

Choosing a place for installing a storage water heater

When determining the installation location of the water heater, several criteria must be followed. According to the installation method, storage EWHs are divided into three types:

1. Wall mounted;
2. floor;
3. Embedded.

The capacity of wall-mounted EWHs has a limit of 200 liters, floor-mounted ones can hold up to 1000 liters of water, built-in ones - from 50 to 1000 liters. The devices have various shapes - cylindrical, rectangular, cubic, combined. The connection method and the choice of installation location often depend on the form. The shape and overall dimensions greatly affect the possibility of placing the device.

According to the orientation of the main volume, two types of products are distinguished - horizontal and vertical. The orientation of the heating element depends on the orientation, trouble-free operation is guaranteed only if the heater is completely constantly covered with water. You can read more about choosing water heaters in this one.

The next important factor is the weight of the device (filled). The weight of wall models does not exceed 200 kg, however, not all walls can withstand this weight. With a low density and reliability of the wall structure, the apparatus will tear out the fasteners and come off. Therefore, in some cases, an auxiliary frame made of metal or rails is constructed to mount the water heater to the wall.

EWH should be placed in close proximity to the points of water intake. With a large length of pipelines to the mixers, the flow of hot water begins only after the high-quality heating of the pipe. This takes a significant amount of heat concentrated in hot water. EWH is mounted in rooms with a constant positive air temperature.

When placing and mounting the EWH, the distances from building structures should be observed. They are necessary for the maintenance and repair of the device.

Self-installation of a water heater

The installation process is divided into several main stages:

1. Stationary fastening;
2. Connection of pipelines;
3. Connection to the power supply;
4. Checking and starting the device.

Stationary fastening

Floor water heaters have adjustable legs or a special stand. Wall-mounted EWHs are mounted using three types of fixtures:

1. Wood screws with a diameter of 0.8 cm and a length of 60 - 70 mm for fastening into wooden walls and supporting structures;
2. Anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 - 16 mm (the diameter of the fastener depends on the weight of the "water heater");
3. Screws with plastic dowels.

Standard fasteners are included with the product along with the support bar. The support bar on the device resembles a DIN rail, designed to improve and simplify the fastening of the tank to the wall.

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

1. Electric drill or perforator;
2. Hammer;
3. Wrenches, screwdrivers;
4. Construction level, tape measure, pencil (marker).

At the first stage, markup is performed. The device is applied to the wall, its contours are marked. Then mark the attachment points. EWH should be located taking into account the future availability of instrument piping.

Holes are drilled at the marking points corresponding to the size of the selected fasteners. Fasteners are mounted, the device is hung. The quality and reliability of fastening is checked, the absence of the possibility of shifting, breaking off the fasteners.

Tying electric storage water heater

Schemes for connecting the storage water heater, depending on the tasks of the device, are divided into two types:

1. Direct connection;
2. Replacement connection.

With a direct connection, the cold water pipeline is connected to the device, the hot water distribution circuit for the mixers diverges from the EWH. This scheme is used in case of hot water production only by accumulative EWH.

Replacement connection is most often made in high-rise apartments. The device is connected as a bypass to the pipeline from the centralized DHW network. When the networks are turned off for repairs in the summer, the water heater is included in the distribution of hot water through the existing wiring, and is disconnected from the hot water riser.

Tying all types of water heaters is made according to the general principle. A PSK is installed on the cold water inlet pipe - a safety relief valve. An arrow is marked on the valve body; during installation, it must be directed towards the device.

The valve performs several functions:

1. The function of protecting the tank from rupture when the pressure rises;
2. check valve function;
3. Dumping excess water.

PSK has a factory preset pressure. When excess pressure in the tank rises, it discharges a small amount of water through a special hole. A silicone hose is attached to the hole, it is led into the sewer or directly into the sink. By the same principle, the valve operates when water is heated - it expands, the excess is discharged.

When the water is turned off, the PSK locks the water in the EWH - acts as a check valve. The valve is always included in the product package.

Often the question arises - the valve began to leak, what to do? At the same time, it periodically stops flowing. The answer is unequivocal - PSK needs to be replaced. In most cases, when the working element of the valve breaks down, it permanently loses its tightness.

Further, shut-off valves - ball valves - are installed at the inlet and outlet of EWH. At high pressure in the water supply system (more than 5 - 6 atmospheres), a reducer should be installed at the inlet of the water heater to reduce pressure. Instead of ball valves, sometimes they use wall-mounted taps built-in for finishing; a water heater is connected to them through flexible pipes.

Connecting the water heater to the power supply

The electric water heater has an increased power, while operating from a 220V network. Devices of small volume - from 15 to 50 liters, can be connected to a conventional network (with good quality and an appropriate wiring section). But it is better (and safer) to connect the water heater through protective safety devices:

1. Circuit breaker;
2. Residual current device - RCD;
3. Waterproof socket.

The machine protects the product from short circuits, overloads. The current strength AB is selected at 16 A. The best option is to connect the outlet to the shield with a separate line, but not everyone can do it on their own.

Checking and starting the device

To start the device, the tap at the cold water inlet is fully opened, the outlet from the EWH is opened, and the nearest mixer is slightly opened. The container is completely filled with water, air is vented.

The plug is plugged into an outlet, power is supplied. The regulator knob (or buttons) sets the required water temperature. Heating occurs. The water heater is inspected for leaks. At the start-up stage, do not set high temperature values.

During further operation, maintaining excessively high temperatures can lead to the rapid formation of scale. Hot water temperature according to SNiP - no more than 55 degrees Celsius. For EWH, a value of 60 - 70 degrees will be sufficient.

The operation mode of the water heater is checked - the heating element is turned off at a given temperature. This is indicated by the indicator lamp.

Installing a storage water heater on your own is a simple process, accessible to any man with a minimum of skills and tools. During installation, it is necessary to comply with a number of conditions set forth in the equipment documentation and the recommendations of this article.

A water heater has long ceased to be considered a luxury item. Currently, such equipment is installed in almost every home. The most popular are flow and storage electric water heaters. Your attention is invited to an overview of the main advantages and disadvantages of the mentioned equipment, as well as instructions for its independent installation and proper use.

Advantages

1. Compact dimensions. The flow heater does not take up much space. At the same time, models of heaters are available for sale, equipped with a mixer and a shower head, which allows you to save additional money.
2. Fast heating. Unlike storage-type models, instantaneous heaters begin to produce warm water already 30-60 seconds after starting.
3. No restrictions on the volume of heated water. The user can get exactly the amount of hot water that he needs, unlike storage tanks, the volume of which is limited.
4. Relatively low price.

Flaws

Instantaneous water heaters are best suited for houses and apartments equipped with electric stoves. In this case, the meter and wiring will already comply with regulatory requirements.

Advantages and disadvantages of storage heaters

Advantages

1. No need to modify the electrical network. The storage heater can be plugged into an ordinary electrical outlet.
2. Profitability. On average, storage water heaters consume about the same amount of electricity per hour of operation as an ordinary vacuum cleaner. At the same time, models with the ability to control the heating power are available for sale. The time required to prepare the required volume of water at the desired temperature directly depends on the installed power.
3. The possibility of arranging wiring for a bathroom and kitchen.

Flaws

The only significant drawback of storage water heaters is their impressive dimensions. However, today manufacturing companies offer their consumers a large selection of heater models that save space. For example, if you wish, you can purchase a flat unit.

Installation of instantaneous water heater

The process of installing an instantaneous water heater does not require the performer to have any serious skills. There are two options for mounting such a unit: for temporary use and for permanent operation.

Temporary connection

This option is usually used when it is necessary to obtain heated water in the absence of the possibility of connecting to a central water supply. After the appearance of such an opportunity, the water heater is easily turned off or even dismantled until the next use - it does not take much time.

The most convenient for temporary use are models that were originally equipped with a mixer and a shower head.

First step. Fix the heater in a convenient place with dowels and screws.

Second step. Remove the watering can from the domestic shower hose and connect the hose to the water heater inlet.

Third step. Connect the complete watering can to the outlet of the water heater.

As a result, the cold liquid will enter the heater from the mixer, heat up when passing through it, and leave the complete watering can already warm.

Permanent connection

This option is used in situations where the heater is planned to be operated regularly. In this case, the unit is connected to the water supply system.

The connection is carried out according to the scheme already considered, however, the supply and output of the liquid are fixed permanently. For such a connection, special tees are used, as well as stopcocks.

As a result, heated water will come out of the mixer.

After installing the heater, make sure that all connections are tight and only then accept the device for permanent use.

It is important to understand not only the order of connecting an instantaneous water heater, but also the features of its use.

The main rule: the flow-through water heater can only be turned on after the heater coil is completely filled with water.

If the heater coil is not covered with liquid in sufficient volume, it will break and it will become impossible to use the device.

Regardless of the option you choose to connect the flow heater, the use of such a device is carried out in the following order:

Turning off the appliance is carried out in a similar order - you turn off the heater, wait until cold liquid begins to flow from the shower head, and only then turn off the water supply.

Installation of storage heater

In the case of storage heaters, temporary installation is not provided. Of course, you can connect an ordinary hose with a watering can to the outlet of warm water, but it will be categorically inconvenient to use such a unit.

First step. Choose a suitable place to install the water heater and check the wall.

Flow models are quite light in weight. Cumulative ones will exert a much more significant load on the wall. Therefore, when choosing a place to install a heater, you need to pay attention not only to the degree of convenience of piping, but also to the strength of the surface.

As a rule, heaters up to 200 l are fixed to the wall. Tanks of larger volume require only floor installation. If the heater has a volume of more than 50 liters, it is recommended to fix it exclusively to a load-bearing wall.

Second step. Prepare all the necessary tools for installing the water heater.

You will need:

• puncher (if the wall is concrete) or impact electric drill (if the wall is brick);
• marker;
• measuring tape;
• drill for tiles (if the surface at the place of the future attachment of the heater is tiled);
• protective valve;
• FUM tape;
• dowels and fastening hooks;
• building level.

In the presence of the required wiring with pre-mounted tees and shut-off valves, the installation of the storage heater is carried out in an extremely simple sequence.

First step. Step back about 150-200 mm from the ceiling surface and leave marks on the wall for future holes. Thanks to this gap, you can conveniently lift the water heater for hanging and removing the tank.

Second step. Armed with a drill (perforator) with a suitable drill, make holes in the wall with a depth corresponding to the length of the mounting hooks.

Third step. Drive the dowels into the prepared holes, and then screw the screws into them. Be sure to leave a gap to accommodate the water heater mounting plate.

Fourth step. Install the tank on the mounts.

Fifth step. Install a safety valve on the cold fluid inlet. With its help, excessive pressure will be removed from the system. Connect a tube to drain excess fluid to the sewer pipe. Also, this tube can be gently inserted into the toilet bowl.

Sixth step. Connect the cold water pipe to the water heater inlet. The entrance is marked blue. Connect only through the safety valve. To the outlet (marked in red), connect the ready-made hot liquid outlet pipe.

Again, pay attention to the importance of the safety valve. Without such a device, the tank may be seriously damaged or even ruptured due to excessive pressure increase during the preparation of hot water.

If there is a protective valve, the excess pressure will simply be released and the device will continue to operate under normal conditions. Also, with the help of a safety valve, you can quickly and conveniently drain water from the heater when it is necessary to perform maintenance and repair work on the equipment.

Thus, the installation of a water heater is not particularly difficult. If you wish, you can independently install and connect a storage model or a flow heater. It is enough just to follow the provisions of the presented guide and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself water heater installation

If you decide to learn how to connect a storage water heater with your own hands, you need to study all the nuances of the installation in advance, since any electrical appliance requires safety precautions.

• 1 Standard plumbing scheme in the apartment
  • 1.1 Features of creating a circuit
• 2 Installation steps
  • 2.1 General installation tips

Standard plumbing scheme in the apartment

To begin with, one important nuance should be understood that connecting any storage water heater to a water supply system implies embedding it in a water supply system. The goal of the process is big - to create a source of hot water in the system with your own hands. It is desirable, of course, that the installation and repair in the apartment coincide with each other, however, modern technologies make it possible to install the boiler as accurately as possible. In this case, an electric water heater will have to provide hot water to all points of analysis of the apartment.

Speaking directly about the standard plumbing scheme, it is necessary to single out the main nodes - the toilet, to which only cold water is installed, followed by a washbasin, where a riser with hot and cold water is connected, then a bathroom or shower, and then a kitchen washbasin, which often has a separate supply Actually, this is a standard scheme for connecting a storage water heater, and it is necessary to build a boiler into it, which allows you to heat the contents of the pipes in the apartment. There are, of course, various branching options, which you can see on the video on the Internet.

If we consider the plumbing scheme with a built-in heater, then it must be installed in such a way that it provides hot water to all points of analysis, except for the toilet bowl.

Features of creating a schema

The main components of the circuit, as you can see in any video, are special taps and a check valve. A prerequisite for the well-coordinated operation of the circuit, which does not require quick repairs, is the presence of a valve. It prevents hot water from draining through the pipe with cold water. Here you should understand the main principle of the operation of the water heater, the installation of which can be done by hand. Cold water exerts pressure on the hot water tank, and by design, hot water is disassembled from above, and cold water from below.

In order to cut off the storage device from the water supply, two taps work in pairs. Accordingly, they are switched on only during the operation of the device, and their installation is necessary. In addition, such cranes are important when the unit is to be repaired and needs to be removed.

Another important point, without which it is impossible to connect a storage water heater, is the presence of a third tap, which turns off only hot water supply. Its installation can also be done by hand. A prerequisite is to cover it during the operation of the drive. Otherwise, hot water will be able to go into the general hot water supply system.

Installation steps

The main steps that should be carried out when installing a hot water storage tank with your own hands:

• Fixing the device on a bearing wall. In principle, if a good repair is made in the apartment, you can fix it on a simple wall.
• The cold water supply system should then be connected to the unit's nozzle, as can be seen from the video. The connection is made by means of flexible hoses or pipes.
• Connecting to a power source. The most important thing here is the moment of safety, especially if you carry out the procedure yourself. It is also worth noting that the operation of the equipment will require a network with a current of at least 6-8 kW. It is desirable for various reasons to carry out the installation of the product above the head.

If the apartment is being renovated, you can entrust the installation of the unit to professionals. Otherwise, if you are going to do this procedure yourself, you can use the tips below:

• In the event that repairs in the apartment were carried out for a long time, you should invite a specialist before installation who will diagnose the wiring in the apartment.
• The wall serving as the installation site of the boiler must bear a load twice the mass of the device.
• Access to the device must be free in case it needs to be repaired.
• Equally important is a sufficient analysis of the pipeline in the dwelling. More precisely, the quality of pipes and risers, as well as the availability of outlets for directly connecting the unit, installing taps and other necessary manipulations. In the event that the condition of the risers leaves much to be desired, it is necessary to pre-replace them, carry out repairs, otherwise the adequate operation of the water heater may be in question.

Installing a storage water heater in your own apartment is possible with your own hands. The most important thing here is the observance of safety precautions, as well as the implementation of all installation rules.

Since the centralized hot water supply of residential buildings is becoming irrelevant, autonomous storage water heaters are replacing them. An important plus of these household appliances is simple installation that does not require special permits. We offer to help you realize this advantage and consider how to properly install and connect the boiler to the water supply of a private house or apartment.

Materials and accessories

As a rule, storage and instantaneous water heaters are equipped with fasteners - brackets or brackets designed to hang the unit on the wall. The remaining components and pipeline fittings will have to be bought independently.

To install and properly connect an electric boiler according to the standard scheme, prepare a set of materials:

• 3 ball valves DN15;
• 2 American women of identical diameter;
• tee DN15;
• safety check valve intended for boilers;
• metal-plastic pipes (cross-linked polyethylene, corrugated stainless steel or polypropylene are also suitable) with connecting fittings;
• three-core copper cable VVG with a conductor cross section of 2.5 mm²;
• automatic two-pole switch, rated for a current of 20 amperes.

Note. Some manufacturers complete their products with safety valves with rubber gaskets.

This is what the pressure relief valve looks like from the tank

If the pipe connections to the storage water heater are planned to be wall-mounted, it is better to take a pipe made of metal-plastic, stainless steel or cross-linked polyethylene. PPR wiring is not recommended to be hidden. Do not forget about the brackets for attaching pipes to the walls - the pipes should not load the boiler pipes with their own weight.

The length of the cable for connecting to the mains depends on the remoteness of the main control panel, from where a separate power line will have to be routed. The second connection option is to the nearest power distribution box. For an open way, prepare plastic cable channels or a corrugated sleeve.

With hidden laying, pipes immediately go into the wall

The option of connecting an indirect heating boiler depends on the type of boiler and the heating scheme. But you will definitely need pipes with fittings and a low-power circulation pump that develops a pressure of 4 m of water column (0.4 bar).

Water heater installation

Before connecting the water heater to the mains and water supply, the unit must be securely fixed to the wall in a convenient place. Here are some recommendations for placing the boiler:

Reference. In apartment buildings - new buildings, a separate room is often provided for the placement of water-heating equipment.

Having chosen the place and height of the water heater suspension, mark the fixing points on the wall. The task is facilitated by the design of a standard bracket in the form of a strip with slots for hooks, welded to the boiler body. Drill holes 12 cm deep, hammer in plastic plugs and screw in 8 mm hooks. The second mounting option is anchor bolts Ø10 mm. Together with an assistant, lift the heavy unit and hang it from the bracket.

Products of some brands are equipped with special paper templates that facilitate the initial marking of attachment points. There are boilers with a separate mounting plate fixed to the wall with a few dowels. The body is screwed to it with conventional bolts.

How to connect the machine to the water supply

The design of an electric or gas boiler provides for the withdrawal of water for the needs of domestic hot water from the upper zone of the tank, where it reaches its maximum temperature. Make-up from a cold water supply is carried out to the lower zone. This causes the following problems with emptying the tank:

• it is impossible to drain from the “hot” side - the end of the tube is too high, so literally 2 liters will flow out of the container;
• if you connect the pipe from the “cold” side directly, then you will have to unscrew the American to empty it;
• it is inconvenient and long to drain water through a regular valve - the section of the fitting is too small.

The presented boiler connection scheme solves the listed problems and allows you to empty the tank at any time, spending literally 15 minutes. Each element of the strapping clearly performs its function:

1. Ball valves on the main highways serve to cut off the water heater from the water supply network and hot water supply.
2. A tee with a third ball valve on the "cold" side is designed to completely empty the tank.
3. The safety (it is also a non-return) valve is engaged in the discharge of excess water, whose volume increases when heated. The second function is to prevent the tank from emptying back into the supply pipeline.
4. Americans allow you to disconnect the device without disassembling the system.

To properly assemble the piping of the electric boiler, it is enough to connect the pipes according to the diagram and attach them to the wall with clamps. Last of all, American women are screwed on, a flexible hose is put on the “nose” of the safety valve, which is directed to the sewer. The process of installing a storage water heater is clearly demonstrated in the video:

After assembly, check the tightness of the joints by opening the cold water supply. Filling the tank is carried out with the “hot” tap of the mixer open in order to release air. After making sure that the connections are secure, proceed to the wiring.

Connection to the house electrical network

The power of the vast majority of water heaters does not exceed 3.5 kW. If the consumption of your household appliance is within the specified limits, feel free to connect the boiler through, equipped with a ground contact (mandatory!). The work is simple: run a three-core cable from the junction box using a corrugation or a plastic box, and place a socket next to the heater.

Exposed wiring and outlet knobs are not to the liking of all homeowners. To make the connection of electricity to the water heater more soundly, follow our instructions:

Plug the boiler filled with water into the network and check the operation. Since on the budget versions of the devices, the heating temperature is regulated directly on the heating element, do not rush to put the lid on. Wait until the water reaches a comfortable temperature (look at the pointer) and turn the adjustment lever on the end of the heating element to turn off the heating element.

We connect an indirect heating boiler

The unit is a tank with a built-in coil that heats the bulk of the water. Accordingly, the heat exchanger is connected to the boiler, and the tank is connected to the hot water supply system. To drain excess water, expanding when heated, the same safety valve is used.

The easiest way is to connect an indirect heating boiler to a single-circuit boiler equipped with special pipes. Inside the heat generator there is a three-way switching valve that distributes the coolant flow for heating or loading the DHW boiler - as ordered by the electronic control unit. In this case, the heater coil is simply connected to the appropriate nozzles.

Note. We are talking about, equipped with their own circulation pump. In floor versions - solid fuel and gas - pumps and three-way valves, as a rule, are not provided.

The operation of the pump unit is controlled by a thermostat built into the boiler (it has a special socket). When the water intake begins, the container cools down and the thermoelement starts the pump, with sufficient heating it stops.

An important point. Connection to a double-circuit boiler is carried out in a similar way. It is not allowed to "hang" the boiler on the second circuit of the heat generator, acting from the flow heat exchanger. How to properly strap in such cases, look at the video from the expert:

Conclusion

You can absolutely not read the instructions, do not use piping fittings and supply water to the electric heater directly. The unit will function successfully until the first malfunction or repair of the plumbing, when you have to drain the water from the tank. But there is one detail that must be installed - a safety check valve. Without it, expanding water is capable of tearing apart any weak connection or the tank itself.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.