Drainage system around the house: drainage device for the foundation. Proper drainage around the house: an analysis of the main technical points Drainage pipe around the house

If you ask any experienced builder, developer, landscape designer about what needs to be done, first of all, on a newly acquired and not yet built-up site, the answer will be unequivocal: the first is drainage, if there is a need for it. And this is almost always the case. The drainage of the site is always associated with a very large amount of excavation, so it is better to do them right away so that later you do not disturb the beautiful landscape that any good owners equip in their possessions.

Of course, the easiest way is to order site drainage services to specialists who will do everything quickly and correctly, using special equipment. However, this will always come at a cost. Perhaps the owners did not plan these expenses, perhaps they will violate the entire budget planned for the construction and arrangement of the site. In the proposed article, we propose to consider the question of how to do the drainage of the site with your own hands, as this will allow you to save a lot, and in most cases it is quite possible to do these works yourself.

Why is site drainage needed?

Looking through the estimates and price lists related to the drainage of the site, some developers begin to doubt the appropriateness of these activities. And the main argument is that earlier, in principle, no one "bothered" much on this. With such an argument for refusing to drain the site, it is worth noting that the quality and comfort of human life have greatly improved. After all, no one wants to live in dampness or in a house with earthen floors. No one wants to see cracks in their house, on the blind areas and paths that appeared after the next cold season. All homeowners want to improve their yard or, to put it in a modern and fashionable way, to make landscaping. After the rain, no one wants to "knead the mud" in stagnant puddles. If so, then drainage is definitely needed. You can do without it only in very rare cases. In which cases we will describe a little later.

Drainage? No, I haven't heard...

Drainage is nothing more than the removal of excess water from the surface of the site or from the depth of the soil. Why is site drainage needed?

First of all, in order to remove excess water or from the foundations of buildings and structures. The appearance of water in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base of the foundation can either provoke soil movement - the house will “float”, which is typical for clay soils, or, in combination with freezing, frost heaving forces may appear that will create efforts to “squeeze” the house out of the ground.

Drainage is designed to remove water from basements and basements. No matter how effective waterproofing is, excess water will still seep through building structures. Basements without drainage can become damp and encourage the growth of mold and other fungi. In addition, precipitation in combination with the salts present in the soil very often form aggressive chemical compounds that adversely affect building materials.

Drainage will prevent the "squeezing out" of the septic tank at a high level of groundwater. Without drainage, a wastewater treatment system will not last long.
Drainage in conjunction with the system and around the buildings ensures that water is quickly removed, preventing it from seeping into the underground parts of the buildings.
Drainage prevents waterlogging of the soil. In areas equipped with well-planned and made drainage, water will not stagnate.
Waterlogged soil can cause rotting of the root parts of plants. Drainage prevents this and creates conditions for the growth of all garden, garden and ornamental plants.
With heavy precipitation in areas that have a slope, the fertile soil layer can be washed out by water flows. Drainage directs water flows into the drainage system, thereby preventing soil erosion.

Water erosion of fertile soil in the absence of drainage is a serious problem in agriculture

If the site is surrounded by a fence built on a strip foundation, then it can "seal" the natural ways of water drainage, creating conditions for waterlogging the soil. Drainage is designed to remove excess water from the perimeter of the site.
Drainage helps to avoid the formation of puddles on playgrounds, sidewalks and garden paths.

When Drainage Is Necessary Anyway

Consider those cases when drainage is needed in any case:

If the site is located on a flat area, then drainage is mandatory, since when a large amount of precipitation falls or snow melts, the water will simply have nowhere to go. According to the laws of physics, water always goes under the influence of gravity to a lower place, and on a flat landscape it will intensively soak the soil in a downward direction, which can lead to waterlogging. So, from a drainage point of view, it is beneficial for the site to have a slight slope.
If the site is located in a lowland, then its drainage is definitely needed, since water will drain from higher places to those below.
Strongly sloping sites also require drainage, as rapidly draining water will erode the top fertile soil layers. It is better to direct these flows into drainage channels or pipes. Then the main part of the water will go through them, preventing the soil layer from washing out.
If the site is dominated by clay and heavy loamy soils, then after precipitation or snow melt, water will often stagnate on them. Such soils prevent its penetration into the deep layers. Therefore, drainage is essential.
If the groundwater level (GWL) in the area is less than 1 meter, then drainage is indispensable.

If the buildings on the site have a heavily buried foundation, then it is likely that its sole will be in the zone of seasonal groundwater rise. Therefore, it is necessary to plan drainage at the stage of foundation work.
If a significant part of the area of the site is covered with artificial coverings made of concrete, paving stones or paving slabs, and if there are lawns equipped with an automatic irrigation system, then drainage is also needed.

From this impressive list, it becomes clear that drainage to one degree or another is necessary in most cases. But before you plan and do it, you need to study the site.

Studying the site for relief, soil type and groundwater level

Each site is individual in terms of relief, soil composition and groundwater level. Even two sites located nearby can be very different from each other, although there will still be a lot in common between them. Modern construction requirements suggest that the design of a house should begin only after geological and geodetic surveys have been carried out with the preparation of special reports that contain a lot of data, most of which are understandable only to specialists. If they are “translated” into the language of ordinary citizens who do not have education in the field of geology, hydrogeology and geodesy, then they can be listed as follows:

Topographic survey of the area where it is supposed. The photographs must show the cadastral boundaries of the site.
A characteristic of the relief, which should indicate what type of relief is present on the site (wavy or flat). If there are slopes, then their presence and direction are indicated, it is in their direction that water will flow. Attached is a topographic plan of the site indicating the contour lines of the relief.

Characteristics of the soil, what kind of soil it is and at what depth it lies on the site. To do this, experts drill exploratory wells in different places of the site, from where they take samples, which are then examined in the laboratory.
Physical and chemical properties of the soil. Its ability to be load-bearing for the planned house, as well as soil in combination with water, will affect concrete, metal and other building materials.
The presence and depth of groundwater, their seasonal fluctuations, taking into account exploration, archival and analytical data. It is also indicated in which soils water can appear and how they will affect the planned building structures.

The degree of heaving of soils, the possibility of landslides, subsidence, flooding and swelling.

The result of all these studies should be recommendations on the design and depth of the foundation, the degree of waterproofing, insulation, protection from aggressive chemical compounds, and drainage. It happens that on an impeccable-looking site, experts, in general, will not allow you to build such a house as the owners intended. For example, a house with a basement was planned, and a high GWL forces specialists to recommend not to do this, therefore, instead of the originally planned strip foundation with a basement, they will recommend a pile foundation without underground facilities. There is no reason not to trust both these studies and specialists, since they have indisputable tools in their hands - measurements, drilling, laboratory experiments, statistics and calculations.

Of course, geological and geodetic surveys are not done free of charge, and they are done at the expense of the developer and they are mandatory on a new site. This fact is often the subject of indignation of some owners, but it should be understood that this procedure will help save a lot of money during the construction and further operation of the house, as well as maintaining the site in good condition. Therefore, this seemingly unnecessary and expensive bureaucracy is necessary and very useful.

If the site is purchased with existing buildings that have been in operation for at least a few years, then you can also order geological and geodetic surveys, but you can do without them, and learn about groundwater, its seasonal rise and unpleasant impact on human life on other grounds. Of course, this will be with a certain degree of risk, but in most cases it works. What you should pay attention to?

First of all, this is communication with the former owners of the site. It is clear that it is not always in their interests to talk in detail about problems with flooding, but, nevertheless, you can always find out if any drainage measures have been taken. This will not be hidden for anything.
Inspection of the basement can also tell a lot about something. Regardless of whether cosmetic repairs were made there. If there is an increased level of humidity in the premises, then this will be immediately felt.

Getting to know your neighbors and interviewing them can be much more informative than talking to the former owners of the site and the house.
If there are wells or wells on your site and neighboring ones, then the water level in them will eloquently report on the GWL. Moreover, it is desirable to observe how the level changes in different seasons. Theoretically, the maximum water should rise in the spring after the snow has melted. In summer, if there were dry periods, the groundwater level should fall.
Plants growing on the site can also “tell” a lot to the owner. The presence of plants such as cattail, reeds, sedge, horse sorrel, nettle, hemlock, foxglove indicate that groundwater is at a level of no more than 2.5-3 meters. If even during a drought these plants continue their rapid growth, then this once again indicates the proximity of water. If licorice or wormwood grow on the site, then this is evidence that the water is at a safe depth.

Some sources speak of an old way of determining the level of groundwater, which was used by our ancestors before building a house. To do this, a piece of turf was removed in the area of interest and a shallow hole was dug, on the bottom of which a piece of wool was laid, an egg was placed on it, and covered with an inverted clay pot and the removed turf. After dawn and sunrise, the pot was removed and watched as the dew fell. If the egg and wool are in dew, then the water is shallow. If dew fell only on wool, then there is water, but it is at a safe depth. If both the egg and the wool are dry, then the water is very deep. It may seem that this method is akin to quackery or shamanism, but in fact it has an absolutely correct explanation, from the point of view of science.
The growth of bright grass on the site even during a drought, as well as the appearance of fog in the evening hours, indicates the proximity of groundwater.
The best way to independently determine the groundwater level at the site is to drill test wells. To do this, you can use a regular garden drill with extension cords. Drilling is best done during the highest rise of water, that is, in the spring after the snow melts. First of all, wells should be made at the construction site of a house or an existing building. The well should be drilled to the depth of the foundation plus 50 cm. If water begins to appear in the well immediately or after 1-2 days, this indicates that drainage measures are mandatory.

Beginner's Geologist's Kit - Garden Drill with Extension

If, after rain, puddles stagnate on the site, then this may indicate the proximity of groundwater, as well as the fact that the soil is clayey or heavy loamy, which prevents the water from going deep into the ground. In this case, drainage is also necessary. It will also be very useful to update the fertile soil to a lighter one, then there will be no problems with growing most garden and garden plants.

Even a very high level of groundwater in the area, although it is a big problem, is a problem that can be completely solved with the help of well-calculated and well-executed drainage. Let's give a good example - more than half of the territory of Holland lies below sea level, including the capital - the famous Amsterdam. The groundwater level in this country can be at a depth of several centimeters. Those who have been to Holland noticed that after rain there are puddles that do not soak into the ground, because they simply have nowhere to soak. Nevertheless, in this cozy country, the issue of draining the land is being solved with the help of a set of measures: dams, dams, polders, locks, canals. The Netherlands even has a special department - Watershap, which deals with flood protection. The abundance of many windmills in this country does not at all mean that they grind grain. Most mills are pumping water.

We do not call for a special purchase of a site with a high level of groundwater, on the contrary, this should be avoided by all possible means. And the example of Holland was given only so that readers could understand that there is a solution to any problem with groundwater. Moreover, in most of the territory of the former USSR, settlements and summer cottages are located in areas where the groundwater level is within acceptable limits, and you can cope with seasonal rises on your own.

Types of drainage systems

There are a great variety of drainage systems and their varieties. Moreover, in different sources, their classification systems may differ from each other. We will try to talk about the simplest, from a technical point of view, drainage systems, but at the same time effective ones that will help solve the problem of removing excess water from the site. Another argument in favor of simplicity is that the fewer elements any system has and the more time it can do without human intervention, the more reliable it will be.

Surface drainage

This type of drainage is the simplest, but, nevertheless, quite effective. It is intended mainly for the removal of water coming in the form of precipitation or snowmelt, as well as for the removal of excess water during any technological processes, for example, when washing cars or garden paths. Surface drainage is done in any case around buildings or other structures, sites, places of exit from the garage or yard. Surface drainage is of two main types:

Point drainage designed to collect and drain water from a specific place. This type of drainage is also called local drainage. The main locations for point drainage are under roof gutters, in pits in front of doors and garage doors, and at the locations of irrigation taps. And also point drainage, in addition to its direct purpose, can complement another type of surface drainage system.

Rain inlet - the main element of point surface drainage

Linear drainage needed to remove water from a larger area compared to a point. It is a collection trays And channels, mounted with a slope, equipped with various elements: sand traps (sand traps), protective grilles , performing a filtering, protective and decorative function. Trays and channels can be made from a variety of materials. First of all, it is plastic in the form of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE). And also materials such as concrete or polymer concrete are widely used. Grates are most often used plastic, but in those areas where increased load is expected, stainless steel or even cast iron products can be used. Work on the organization of linear drainage requires concrete preparation of the base.

It is obvious that any good surface drainage system almost always combines elements of point and linear. And all of them are combined into a common drainage system, which may also include another subsystem, which we will consider in the next section of our article.

rain gutter prices

storm water inlet

deep drainage

In most cases, surface drainage alone cannot be dispensed with. To qualitatively solve the problem, we need a different type of drainage - deep, which is a system of special drainage pipes (drains) , laid in those places where it is required to lower the level of groundwater or divert water from the protected area. Drains are laid with a slope to the side collector, well , artificial or natural reservoir on the site or beyond. Naturally, they are laid below the level of the base of the foundation of the protected building or along the perimeter of the site at a depth of 0.8-1.5 meters to lower the groundwater level to non-critical values. Drains can also be laid in the middle of the site with a certain interval, which is calculated by specialists. Typically, the interval between the pipes is 10-20 meters, and they are laid in the form of a Christmas tree, directed to the main outlet pipe-collector. It all depends on the level of groundwater and their quantity.

When laying drains in trenches, it is imperative to use all the features of the site relief. Water will always move from a higher place to a lower one, so the drains are laid in the same way. It is much more difficult if the site is absolutely flat, then the pipes are given the desired slope by giving a certain level to the bottom of the trenches. It is customary to make a slope of 2 cm per 1 meter of pipe for clay and loamy soils and 3 cm per 1 meter for sandy soils. Obviously, with sufficiently long drains, it will be difficult to maintain the desired slope on a flat area, since the level difference will already be 20 or 30 cm per 10 meters of the pipe, so the necessary measure is the organization of several drainage wells that will be able to receive the required volume of water.

It should be noted that even with a smaller slope, water, even at 1 cm per 1 meter or less, will still, obeying the laws of physics, try to go below the level, but the flow rate will be less, and this can contribute to silting and clogging of drains. And any owner who has laid sewer or drainage pipes at least once in his life knows that it is much more difficult to maintain a very small slope than a larger one. Therefore, you should not be “embarrassed” in this matter and boldly set a slope of 3, 4 and even 5 cm per meter of the drainage pipe, if the length and the planned difference in the depth of the trench allow.

Drainage wells are one of the most important components of deep drainage. They can be of three main types:

Rotary wells – suit where the drains make a turn or there is a connection of several elements. These elements are needed for the revision and cleaning of the drainage system, which must be done periodically. They can be as small in diameter, which will only allow cleaning and washing with a jet of water under pressure, but they can also be wide, which provide human access.

Water intake wells - their purpose is absolutely clear from their name. In those areas where it is not possible to divert water into the depths or beyond, it becomes necessary to collect water. These wells are designed for just that. Previously, they were mainly a structure made of cast-in-place concrete, concrete rings or bricks plastered with cement mortar. Now, plastic containers of various sizes are most often used, which are protected from clogging or silting with geotextiles and sprinkling of crushed stone or gravel. Water collected in a water intake well can be pumped out of the site using special submersible drainage pumps, can be pumped out and taken out by tankers, or can be settled in a well or pool for further irrigation.

absorption wells designed to drain water in the event that the terrain of the site does not allow moisture to be removed beyond its limits, but the underlying soil layers have good absorbency. These soils include sandy and sandy loam. Such wells are made of large diameters (about 1.5 meters) and depths (at least 2 meters). The well is filled with filter material in the form of sand, sand-gravel mixture, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick or slag. To prevent the ingress of eroded fertile soil or various blockages from above, the well is also covered with fertile soil. Naturally, the side walls and the bottom are protected by sprinkling. Water, falling into such a well, is filtered by its contents and goes deep into sandy or sandy loamy soils. The ability of such wells to remove water from the site may be limited, so they are arranged when the expected throughput should not exceed 1-1.5 m 3 per day.

Of the drainage systems, the main and most important is deep drainage, since it is it that provides the necessary water regime for both the site and all the buildings located on it. Any mistake in the design and installation of deep drainage can lead to very unpleasant consequences, which can lead to the death of plants, flooding of basements, destruction of house foundations, and uneven drainage of the site. That is why it is recommended not to neglect geological and geodetic studies and ordering a drainage system project from specialists. If it is possible to correct flaws in surface drainage without a strong violation of the landscape of the site, then with deep drainage everything is much more serious, the price of a mistake is too high.

Well prices

Overview of accessories for drainage systems

For self-execution of the drainage of the site and the buildings located on it, you need to find out what components will be required for this. Of the widest selection of them, we have tried to show the most used at the present time. If earlier the market was dominated by Western manufacturers, who, as monopolists, dictated high prices for their products, now a sufficient number of domestic enterprises offer their products, which are in no way inferior in quality.

Details for surface drainage

For point and linear surface drainage, the following parts can be used:

Name, manufacturer	Purpose and description
Tray drainage concrete 1000140125 mm with a steel stamped galvanized lattice. Production - Russia.	Designed for surface water drainage. Capacity 4.18 l/s, able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	880 rub.
Concrete drainage tray with cast-iron grate, dimensions 1000140125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and throughput are the same as in the previous example. Able to withstand loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1480 rub.
Concrete drainage tray with steel galvanized mesh grid, dimensions 1000140125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and throughput are the same. Able to withstand loads up to 12.5 tons (B125).	1610 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with plastic grating. Production - Russia.	The purpose is the same, the throughput is 1.9 l / s. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15). The material combines the advantages of plastic and concrete.	820 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with cast-iron grate. Production - Russia.	throughput is the same. Able to withstand up to 25 tons of load (C250).	1420 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with steel mesh grating. Production - Russia.	throughput is the same. Able to withstand up to 12.5 tons of load (B125).	1550 rub.
Tray plastic drainage 100014560 mm with a galvanized stamped lattice. Production - Russia.	Made from frost-resistant polypropylene. Throughput 1.8 l/sec. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	760 rub.
Plastic drainage tray 100014560 mm with cast-iron grate. Production - Russia.	Throughput 1.8 l/sec. Able to withstand loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1360 rub.
Completed plastic rainwater inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300300300 mm. With plastic grid. Production - Russia.	Designed for point drainage of water flowing from the roof through the downpipe, and can also be used to collect water under yard, garden watering taps. Can be connected to fittings with diameters of 75, 110, 160 mm. Removable basket provides quick cleaning. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with siphon partitions, a waste basket and a plastic grate - 1000 rubles.
Completed plastic rainwater inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300300300 mm. With cast-iron grate "Snowflake". Production - Russia.	The purpose is similar to the previous one. Withstands loads up to 25 tons (C250).	For a set together with siphon partitions, a waste basket and a cast-iron grate - 1550 rubles.
Sand trap - plastic with a galvanized steel grate. Dimensions 500116320 mm.	Designed to collect dirt and debris in surface linear drainage systems. It is installed at the end of the line of gutters (trays) and later it joins the pipes of the storm sewer system with a diameter of 110 mm. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with gratings 975 rubles.

In the table, we deliberately showed Russian-made trays and storm water inlets, made of materials that differ from each other and have different configurations. It is also worth noting that the trays have different widths and depths and, accordingly, their throughput is also not the same. There are a lot of options for the materials from which they are made and sizes, there is no need to list them all, since it depends on many factors: the required throughput, the expected load on the soil, the specific scheme for implementing the drainage system. That is why it is best to entrust the calculations of the drainage system to specialists who will calculate both the required size and quantity, and select the components.

There was absolutely no need to talk about possible accessories for drainage trays, storm water inlets and sand traps in the table, since in each individual case they will be different. When buying, if there is a system project, the seller will always tell you the ones you need. They can be end caps for trays, mounts for gratings, various corner and transition elements, reinforcing profiles, and others.

A few words should be said about sand traps and storm water inlets. If the surface linear drainage around the house is implemented with storm water inlets in the corners (and this is usually done), then sand traps will not be required. Rain inlets with siphon partitions and waste baskets do an excellent job with their role. If the linear drainage does not have storm water inlets and goes into the sewer drainage pipe, then a sand trap is required. That is, any transition from drainage trays to pipes must be done either with the help of a storm inlet or a sand trap. Only this way and not otherwise! This is done so that sand and various heavy debris do not get into the pipes, as this can lead to their rapid wear, and over time, both they and the drainage wells will become clogged. It is hard to disagree that it is easier to periodically remove and wash the baskets while on the surface than to go down into the wells.

Surface drainage also includes wells and pipes, but they will be discussed in the next section, since, in principle, they are the same for both types of systems.

Details for deep drainage

Deep drainage is a more complex engineering system that requires more details. In the table we present only the main ones, since all their diversity will take up a lot of space and attention of our readers. If desired, it will not be difficult to find catalogs of manufacturers of these systems, select the necessary parts and accessories for them.

Name and manufacturer	Purpose and description	Approximate price (as of October 2016)
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 63 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and sites. Wrapped with geotextile to prevent clogging of pores with soil, sand, which prevents clogging and silting. They have a full (circular) perforation. Made from low pressure polyethylene (HDPE). Rigidity class SN-4. Depth of laying up to 4 m.	For 1 r.p. 48 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 60 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 160 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 115 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 200 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 190 rub.
Single-wall corrugated drainage pipes made of HDPE with a coconut coir filter with diameters of 90, 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of manufacture - Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and sites on clay and peat soils. Coconut coir has increased reclamation and strength compared to geotextiles. They have circular perforations. Rigidity class SN-4. Depth of laying up to 4 m.	219, 310, 744, 1074 rubles. for 1 r.m. (depending on diameter).
Two-layer drainage pipes with Typar SF-27 geotextile filter. The outer layer of HDPE is corrugated, the inner layer of HDPE is smooth. Diameters 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Are intended for removal of excess moisture from the bases and sites on all types of soils. They have a full (circular) perforation. The outer layer protects against mechanical stress, and the inner layer allows more water to be removed due to its smooth surface. The two-layer design has a stiffness class of SN-6 and allows you to lay pipes at a depth of up to 6 meters.	160, 240, 385 rubles. for 1 r.m. (depending on diameter).
PVC pipes for sewerage are smooth with a socket with an outer diameter of 110, 125, 160, 200 mm, length 1061, 1072, 1086, 1106 mm, respectively. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for organizing an external sewer system, as well as storm sewer or drainage systems. They have a stiffness class of SN-4, which allows them to be laid at a depth of up to 4 meters.	180, 305, 270, 490 rubles. for pipes: 1101061 mm, 1251072 mm, 1601086 mm, 2001106 mm respectively.
Well shafts with a diameter of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Are intended for creation of drainage wells (rotary, water intake, absorption). They have a two-layer construction. Ring stiffness SN-4. The maximum length is 6 meters.	950, 1650, 3700, 7400 rubles for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
Bottom-plug of wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed to create drainage wells: rotary or water intake.	940, 1560, 4140, 7100 for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
Inserts into the well in place with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for insertion into a well at any level of sewer or drainage pipes of appropriate diameters.	350, 750, 2750 rubles for inserts with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm, respectively.
Hatch polymer concrete for drainage wells with a diameter of 340 mm. Country of origin - Russia.		500 rub.
Hatch polymer concrete for drainage wells with a diameter of 460 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	It is intended for installation on drainage wells. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons.	850 rub.
Polyester geotextile with a density of 100 g/m². Country of origin - Russia.	Used to create drainage systems. It is not subject to rotting, influence of a mold, rodents and insects. Roll length from 1 to 6 m.	20 rub. for 1 m².

The presented table shows that the cost of even Russian-made parts for drainage systems can hardly be called cheap. But the effect of their use will delight the owners of the site for at least 50 years. It is about this service life that the manufacturer claims. Considering that the material for manufacturing drainage parts is absolutely inert with respect to all substances found in nature, it can be assumed that the service life will be much longer than stated.

We deliberately did not indicate the previously widely used asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes in the table, since apart from the high price and difficulties in transportation and installation, they will not bring anything. This is yesterday's age.

To create drainage systems, there are still a lot of components from various manufacturers. These include tray parts, which can be throughput, connecting, prefabricated and dead-end. They are designed to connect drainage pipes of various diameters to wells. They provide connections for drainage pipes at various angles.

With all the obvious advantages of tray parts with pipe sockets, their price is very high. For example, the part shown in the figure above costs 7 thousand rubles. Therefore, in most cases, inserts into the well are used, as indicated in the table. Another advantage of tie-ins is that they can be done at any level and at any angle to each other.

In addition to those parts for drainage systems that are indicated in the table, there are many others that are selected by calculation and during installation on site. These may include various cuffs and o-rings, couplings, tees and crosses, check valves for drainage and sewer pipes, eccentric transitions and necks, bends, plugs and much more. Their correct selection should be dealt with, first of all, during the design, and then make adjustments during installation.

Video: How to choose a drainage pipe

Video: Drainage wells

If readers find articles on drainage on the Internet that say that it is easy to make drainage with your own hands, then we advise you to immediately close this article without reading it. Making drainage with your own hands is not an easy task. But, the main thing is that it is possible if you do everything consistently and correctly.

Site drainage design

The drainage system is a complex engineering object that requires an appropriate attitude. Therefore, we recommend that our readers order the design of the drainage of the site from professionals who will take into account absolutely everything: the relief of the site, and the existing (or planned) buildings, and the composition of the soil, and the depth of the GWL, and other factors. After the design, the customer will have a set of documents in his hands, which includes:

Site plan with its relief.
A scheme for laying pipes for wall or ring drainage, indicating the section and type of pipes, the depth of occurrence, the required slopes, and the location of the wells.
The drainage scheme of the site, also indicating the depth of the trenches, types of pipes, slopes, the distance between adjacent drains, the location of rotary or water intake wells.

It will be difficult to independently make a detailed design of the drainage system without knowledge and experience. That is why you should turn to professionals

Scheme of surface point and linear drainage indicating the size of trays, sand traps, storm water inlets, used sewer pipes, location of water intake wells.
Transverse dimensions of trenches for near-wall and deep drainage, indicating the depth, material and thickness of the backfill, type of geotextile used.
Calculation of necessary components and materials.
An explanatory note to the project describing the entire drainage system and the technology for performing work.

The project of the drainage system of the site is much lower than the architectural one, so we once again strongly advise you to contact the specialists. This minimizes the likelihood of errors during self-arrangement of drainage.

Wall drainage equipment at home

To protect the foundations of houses from the effects of groundwater, the so-called wall drainage is made, which is located around the entire house on its outer side at some distance from the base of the foundation. usually it is 0.3-0.5 m, but in any case not more than 1 meter. Wall drainage is done even at the stage of building a house, along with measures for warming and waterproofing the foundation. When is this type of drainage necessary anyway?

Prices for drainage systems

When the house has a basement.

When the buried parts of the foundation are at a distance of no more than 0.5 meters above the groundwater level.
When a house is built on clay or loamy soils.

All modern house designs almost always provide wall drainage. An exception can only be those cases when the foundation is laid on sandy soils that do not freeze through more than 80 cm.

A typical wall drainage design is shown in the figure.

At some distance from the base of the foundation, approximately 30 cm below its level, a leveling layer of sand 10 cm is made, on which a geotextile membrane with a density of at least 150 g / m² is laid, on which a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm with a thickness of at least 10 cm is poured. Instead of crushed stone, washed gravel may well be used. Crushed stone is better to use granite, but not limestone, since the latter tends to gradually erode with water. A drainage pipe wrapped with geotextile is laid on a crushed stone pillow. The pipes are given the desired slope - at least 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the pipe.

In the places where the pipe turns, inspection and inspection wells are necessarily made. The rules allow them to be done through one turn, but practice suggests that it is better not to save on this and put them on every turn. The slope of the pipes is done in one direction (in the figure from point K1, through points K2 and K3, to point K4). In this case, it is necessary to take into account the terrain. It is assumed that point K1 is at the highest point, and K4 at the lowest.

Drains are inserted into wells not from the very foundation, but with an indent of at least 20 cm from the bottom. Then the small debris or silt that has fallen will not linger in the pipes, but will settle in the well. In the future, when revising the system, you can wash out the silted bottom with a strong jet of water, which will carry away everything unnecessary. If the soil in the area where the wells are located has a good absorbing capacity, then the bottom is not made. In all other cases, it is better to equip the wells with a bottom.

A layer of crushed stone or washed gravel with a thickness of at least 20 cm is again poured over the drains, and then it is wrapped around with the previously laid geotextile membrane. On top of such a “wrapped” structure made of a drainage pipe and rubble, a backfill of sand is made, and on top, after it is compacted, a blind area of the building is already organized, which is also called upon, but already in the system of surface linear drainage. Even if atmospheric water enters from the outside of the foundation, then, having passed through the sand, it will fall into the drains and eventually merge into the main collector well, which can be equipped with a pump. If the relief of the site allows, then an overflow is made from the collector well without a pump, which removes water outside into a gutter, an artificial or natural reservoir, or a storm sewer system. Under no circumstances should drainage be connected to a conventional sewer system.

If groundwater begins to "support" from below, then they, first of all, impregnate the sandy preparation and crushed stone in which the drains are located. The speed of water movement along the drains is higher than in the ground, so the water is quickly removed and drained into a collector well, which is laid lower than the drains. It turns out that inside a closed circuit of drainage pipes, water simply cannot rise above the level of the drains, which means that the base of the foundation and the floor in the basement will be dry.

Such a wall drainage scheme is very often used and works very effectively. But it has a significant drawback. This is backfilling of the entire sinus between the foundation and the edge of the pit with sand. Given the considerable volume of the sinus, you will have to pay a tidy sum for this filling. But there is a beautiful way out of this situation. In order not to backfill with sand, you can use a special profiled geomembrane, which is a sheet of HDPE or PVD with various additives, which has a relief surface in the form of small truncated cones. When the underground part of the foundation is pasted over with such a membrane, it performs two main functions.

The geomembrane itself is an excellent waterproofing agent. It does not allow moisture to penetrate to the walls of the underground foundation structure.
The relief surface of the membrane ensures that the water that appears on it flows down freely, where it is “intercepted” by the laid drains.

The design of wall drainage using a geomembrane is shown in the following figure.

On the outer wall of the foundation, after the measures and insulation (if necessary), the geomembrane is glued or mechanically attached with the relief part (pimples) outward. A geotextile fabric with a density of 150-200 g / m² is fixed on top of it, which will prevent soil particles from clogging the relief part of the geomembrane. Further organization of drainage is usually carried out: a drain is placed on a layer of sand, covered with crushed stone and wrapped with geotextile. Only backfilling of the sinuses is not done with sand or gravel, but with ordinary soil excavated when digging a pit or clay, which is much cheaper.

Drainage of water, "supporting" the foundation from below, proceeds as in the previous case. But water that has entered the wall from the outside through moistened soil or penetrated into the gap between the foundation and the soil will follow the path of least resistance: it seeps through the geotextile, flows freely along the relief surface of the geomembrane, passes through crushed stone and falls into the drain. Foundations protected in this way will not be threatened for a minimum of 30-50 years. In the basement floors of such houses it will always be dry.

Consider the main stages of creating a wall drainage system at home.

Image	Description of actions
	After the measures for the construction of the foundation, its primary coating, and then rolled waterproofing and insulation have been carried out, the geomembrane is glued with the relief part outward on the outer wall of the foundation, including its sole, using a special mastic that does not corrode the expanded polystyrene. The upper part of the membrane should protrude at least 20 cm beyond the level of the future backfill, and the lower part should reach the very bottom of the foundation, including the sole.
	The joints of most geomembranes have a special lock, which is "snapped" by overlapping one sheet over another, and then tapping with a rubber mallet.
	A geotextile fabric with a density of 150-200 g/m² is attached over the geomembrane. It is better to use not needle-punched, but thermally bonded geotextiles, as it is less prone to clogging. For fixing, dish-shaped dowels are used. The step of fastening the dowels is no more than 1 m horizontally and no more than 2 m vertically. The overlap of adjacent geotextile sheets on each other is at least 10-15 cm. Dish-shaped dowels should fall at the junction.
	In the upper part of the geomembrane and geotextile, it is recommended to use a special mounting strip, which will press both layers to the foundation structure.
	The bottom of the pit from the outside of the foundation is cleaned to the required level. The level can be controlled with a theodolite with a measuring bar, a laser level and an improvised wooden bar with marked marks, stretched and set with a tensioned cord using a hydraulic level. You can also “beat off” a horizontal line on the wall and measure the depth with a tape measure.
	Washed sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is wetted with water and rammed mechanically or manually until there are practically no traces left when walking.
	In the designated places, inspection and inspection wells are installed. To do this, it is enough to use mines with a diameter of 340 or 460 mm. Having measured the desired length, they can be cut either with a conventional hacksaw for wood, or with an electric jigsaw, or with a reciprocating saw. Initially, the wells must be cut 20-30 cm more than the estimated length, and later, when designing the landscape, already fit it under it.
	Bottoms are installed on the wells. To do this, in single-layer wells (for example, Wavin), a rubber cuff is placed in the rib of the body, then it is lubricated with soapy water and the bottom is put on. It must go in with force.
	In Russian-made two-layer wells, before installing the cuff, it is necessary to cut a strip of the inner layer with a knife, and then do the same as in the previous case.
	Wells are installed in their intended places. Sites for their installation are compacted and leveled. On their side surfaces, marks are made for the entrance and exit of the centers of drains (taking into account slopes of 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe). We remind you that the entrances and exits of drains must be at least 20 cm from the bottom.
	For the convenience of inserting couplings, it is better to place the wells horizontally and make holes corresponding to the coupling with a crown with a center drill. In the absence of a crown, you can make holes with a jigsaw, but this requires certain skills.
	After that, the edges are cleaned of burrs with a knife or brush.
	The outer rubber cuff of the coupling is placed inside the hole. It should equally go inside the well and stay outside (about 2 cm each).
	The inner surface of the rubber cuff of the coupling is lubricated with soapy water, and then the plastic part is inserted until it stops. The joints of the rubber part of the coupling to the well can be smeared with a waterproof sealant.
	Wells are installed in their places and aligned vertically. Geotextiles are laid out on a sand cushion. Granite crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm or washed gravel with a layer of at least 10 cm is poured on it. In this case, the necessary slopes of the drainage pipes are taken into account. Crushed stone is leveled and compacted.
	Perforated drainage pipes of the required size are measured and cut. Pipes are inserted into couplings cut into wells after lubricating the cuff with soapy water. Their slope is checked.
	A layer of crushed stone or gravel of at least 20 cm is poured on top of the drains. Then the edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped on top of each other and a 20 cm layer of sand is sprinkled on top.
	In the intended place, a pit is dug for the collector well of the drainage system. The level of its occurrence, of course, must be below the lowest drain in order to receive water from the wall drainage. To this pit, a trench is dug from the lower level of the inspection and inspection well for laying a sewer pipe.
	Shafts with diameters of 460, 695 and even 930 mm can be used as a collector well. A prefabricated well made of reinforced concrete rings can also be equipped. Inserting a sewer pipe into a receiving collector well is done in exactly the same way as drains.
	The sewer pipe leading from the lower wall drainage well to the collector well is laid on a 10 cm sand cushion and sprinkled with sand of at least 10 cm thickness on top. After compacting the sand, the trench is covered with soil.
	The system is checked for functionality. To do this, water is poured into the topmost well in terms of level. After filling the bottom, water should begin to flow through the drains into other wells and, after filling their bottoms, eventually flow into the collector well. There should be no reverse current.
	After checking the performance of the sinuses between the edge of the pit, they are covered with soil. It is preferable to use quarry clay for this, which will create a waterproof lock around the foundation.
	The wells are covered with lids to prevent clogging. Final pruning and installation of covers should be done along with landscaping.

The collection well can be equipped with a check valve, which, even if it is overflowing, will not allow water to flow back into the drains. And also in the well can be automatic. When the GWL rises to critical values, water will collect in the well. The pump is set up so that when a certain level is exceeded in the well, it will turn on and pump water out of the site or into other containers or reservoirs. Thus, the GWL in the foundation area will always be lower than the laid drains.

It happens that one collector well is used for the wall drainage system and the surface one. Experts do not recommend doing this, since during intense snowmelt or heavy rains, a very large amount of water will be collected in a short time, which will only interfere with inspecting the GWL in the foundation area. Water from precipitation and melted snow is best collected in separate containers and used for irrigation. In case of overflow of storm wells, water from them can be pumped in the same way to another place with a drainage pump.

Video: Wall drainage at home

Ring drainage equipment at home

Annular drainage, unlike wall drainage, is located not close to the foundation structure, but at some distance from it: from 2 to 10 meters or more. In what cases is ring drainage arranged?

If the house has already been built and any intervention in the foundation structure is undesirable.
If the house does not have a basement.
If the house or group of buildings is built on sandy or sandy loamy soils that have good water permeability.
If other types of drainage cannot cope with the seasonal rise of groundwater.

Regardless of the fact that ring drainage is much simpler in practical implementation, it should be treated more seriously than wall drainage. Why?

A very important characteristic is the depth of the drains. In any case, the laying depth must be greater than the depth of the base of the foundation or the level of the basement floor.
The distance from the foundation to the drain is also an important characteristic. The more sandy the soil, the greater the distance should be. And vice versa - the more clay soils, the closer the drains can be located to the foundation.
When calculating the ring foundation, the level of groundwater, its seasonal fluctuations and the direction of their inflow are also taken into account.

Based on the foregoing, we can safely say that it is better to entrust the calculation of the annular drainage to specialists. It would seem that the closer the drain is to the house and the deeper it is laid, the better it will be for the protected structure. It turns out not! Any drainage changes the hydrogeological situation in the foundation area, which is far from always good. The task of drainage is not to completely drain the site, but to lower the GWL to such values that will not interfere with human and plant life. Drainage is a kind of contract with the forces of Mother Nature, and not an attempt to "rewrite" existing laws.

One of the options for the device of the annular drainage system is shown in the figure.

It can be seen that a trench has been dug around the house outside the blind area to such a depth that the upper part of the drainage pipe lies 30-50 cm below the lowest point of the foundation. The trench is lined with geotextiles and the pipe itself is also in a shell of it. The minimum underlying layer of crushed stone should be at least 10 cm. The minimum slope of drains with a diameter of 110-200 mm is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe. The figure shows that the entire trench is covered with rubble. This is quite acceptable and does not contradict anything but common sense, in terms of excessive spending.

The diagram shows that the inspection and control wells are installed through one turn, which is quite acceptable if the drainage pipe is laid in one piece, without any fittings. But still it is better to do them at every turn. This will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the drainage system over time.

An annular drainage system can perfectly "get along" with a system of surface point and linear drainage. In one trench, drains can be laid at the lower level, and sewer pipes leading from trays and storm water inlets to the well for collecting rain and melt water can be laid next to them or on top in a layer of sand. If the path of both one and the other leads to one collector catchment well, then this is generally wonderful, the number of earthworks is reduced significantly. Although, we recall that we recommended collecting these waters separately. They can be collected together in only one case - if all water from precipitation and extracted from the soil is removed (naturally or forcibly) from the site into a collective storm sewer system, gutter or reservoir.

When organizing ring drainage, a trench is first dug to the estimated depth. The width of the trench in the area of its bottom should be at least 40 cm; a certain slope is immediately given to the bottom of the trench, the control of which is most convenient to carry out with a theodolite, and in its absence, a horizontally stretched cord and a measuring rod from improvised means will help.

Washed sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is carefully rammed. It is obvious that it is impossible to do this in a narrow trench in a mechanized way, therefore, a manual rammer is used.

Installation of wells, tie-in couplings, adding crushed granite or gravel, laying and connecting drains is carried out in exactly the same way as when organizing wall drainage, so there is no point in repeating. The difference is that with ring drainage, it is better to fill the trench after crushed stone and geotextiles not with soil, but with sand. Only the upper fertile layer of soil is poured, about 10-15 cm. Then, already with the landscape equipment of the site, the places for laying drains are taken into account and trees or shrubs with a powerful root system are not planted in these places.

Video: Drainage around the house

Surface point and line drainage equipment

As in all cases, a surface drainage system can only be successfully installed if there is a project or at least a self-made plan. On this plan, it is necessary to take into account everything - from water intake points to a tank where rain and melt water will merge. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the slopes of pipelines and trays, the direction of movement along the trays.

The surface drainage system can be installed with an existing blind area, paths made of paving slabs or paving stones. It is possible that one of their parts will have to be intervened, but this still does not require complete dismantling. Consider an example of the installation of a surface drainage system using the example of polymer concrete trays and sand traps (sand traps) and sewer pipes.

To carry out the work you will need a very simple set of tools:

Shovels shovel and bayonet;
Building bubble level from 60 cm long;
Bench hammer;
Rubber hammer for laying tiles or paving stones;
Construction marking cord and a set of stakes made of wood or pieces of reinforcement;
Trowel and spatulas;
Roulette;
Construction knife;
Chisel;
Angle grinder (grinder) with discs of at least 230 mm for stone and metal;
Container for preparation of solutions.

We present the further process in the form of a table.

Image	Process description
	Given the plan or design of surface drainage, it is necessary to determine the points of water discharge, that is, those places where water collected from the surface will go into the sewer pipeline leading to the drainage well. The depth of this pipeline should be lower than the freezing depth of the soil, which is 60-80 cm for most populated climatic zones in Russia. It is in our interests to minimize the number of discharge points, but to ensure the required drainage capacity.
	Discharge of water into the pipeline must be done either through sand traps or through storm water inlets to ensure the filtering of debris and sand. First of all, it is necessary to provide for their connection using standard shaped elements of external sewerage to the pipeline and try on these elements at the installation site.
	It is better to foresee the connection of storm water inlets located under the drainpipes in advance, even at the stage of arranging wall drainage, so that when snow melts during the thaw and off-season, the water flowing from the roofs immediately falls into the underground pipeline and would not freeze in trays, on blind areas and paths.
	If it is not possible to install sand traps, then the sewer pipeline can be connected directly to the trays. For this, polymer concrete trays have special technological holes that allow you to connect a vertical pipeline.
	Some manufacturers have special baskets fixed in the vertical water outlet, which protect the drainage system from clogging.
	Most plastic trays, in addition to a vertical connection, can also have a side connection. But this should be done only when there is confidence in the purity of the water being drained, since it is much more difficult to clean drainage wells and catchment tanks than baskets.
	To install surface drainage elements, you first need to select the soil to the required depth and width. To do this, with an already existing lawn, the turf is cut to the required width, which is defined as the width of the installed element plus 20 cm - 10 cm on each side. It may be necessary to dismantle the curbs and extreme rows of paving slabs or paving stones.
	In depth, for the installation of drainage elements, it is necessary to choose the soil by the depth of the element plus 20 cm. Of these, 10 cm for sand or crushed stone preparation, and 10 cm for a concrete base. The soil is removed, the base is cleaned and rammed, and further filling is made of crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm. Then pegs are driven in and a cord is pulled, which will determine the level of the installed trays.
	Surface drainage elements are tried on at the installation site. In this case, one should take into account the direction of the water flow, which is usually indicated on the side surface of the trays.
	Holes are made in the drainage elements for connecting sewer pipes. In plastic trays, this is done with a knife, and in polymer concrete trays with a chisel and a hammer.
	When fitting parts, it may be necessary to cut off part of the tray. Plastic are easily cut with a hacksaw, and polymer concrete with a grinder. Galvanized metal gratings are cut with scissors for metal, and cast-iron gratings are cut with a grinder.
	On the last trays, end caps are installed using a special adhesive-sealant.
	To install surface drainage elements, it is best to use ready-made dry mixes of sand concrete M-300, which are in the assortment of many manufacturers. In a suitable container, a solution is prepared, which should be dense in consistency. Installation is best done from discharge points - sand traps. Concrete is laid out on the prepared base.
	Then it is leveled with a trowel and a sand trap is installed on this pillow.
	Then it is exposed along the previously stretched cord. If necessary, the tray is seated in place with a rubber mallet.
	The correctness of the installation is checked by the cord and by the level.
	Trays and sand traps are set so that when the grate is installed, its plane is 3-5 mm below the surface level. Then the water will flow freely into the trays, the gratings will not be damaged by the wheels of the car.
	The sand trap installed according to the level is immediately fixed on the sides with a concrete mixture. The so-called concrete heel is formed.
	Similarly, drainage trays are installed on a concrete base.
	They also align with both cord and level.
	After installation, the joints are covered with a special sealant, which is always offered when buying trays.
	Experienced installers can apply sealant before installing the trays, applying it to the ends even before installation.
	When installing plastic trays in concrete, they can be deformed. Therefore, it is better to install them with installed gratings, which, in order to avoid contamination, are best wrapped with plastic wrap.
	If the surface is flat and has no slopes, then it will be problematic to provide the required slope of the trays. The way out of this situation is to install a cascade of trays of the same width, but different depths.
	After installing all the elements of surface drainage, a concrete heel is formed, and then paving stones or paving slabs are installed in place if they were dismantled. The surface of the paving stones should be 3-5 mm higher than the grate of the drainage tray.
	Between the paving stones and the trays, it is imperative to make a deformation seam. Instead of the recommended rubber cords, you can use a double-folded strip of roofing material and sealant.
	After the concrete has set, after 2-3 days, backfilling of the excavated soil can be done.
	After compacting the soil, the previously removed layer of turf is laid out on top. It must be laid 5-7 cm higher than the rest of the lawn surface, as over time it will compact and settle.
	After flushing the entire surface drainage system and checking its performance, the trays, storm water inlets and sand traps are closed with gratings. It is possible to expose elements to vertical loading only in 7-10 days.

When operating a surface drainage system, it is imperative to periodically clean the storm water inlets and sand traps. If necessary, you can remove the protective grids and rinse the trays themselves with a strong jet of water. Water collected after rains or snowmelt is the most suitable for further use for watering the garden, vegetable garden or lawns. The groundwater collected by a deep drainage system may have a different chemical composition and may not always be used for the same purposes. Therefore, we once again remind and advise our readers to collect groundwater and atmospheric water separately.

Video: Installation of a drainage system

Site deep drainage equipment

We have already described in which cases deep drainage of the site is needed and found out that it is needed almost always in order to forever forget about the problems of stagnant puddles, permanent dirt or the death of various plants that cannot tolerate waterlogged soils. The complexity of deep drainage equipment is that if the site has already been landscaped, trees and shrubs have been planted, there is a well-groomed lawn, then this order will have to be violated at least partially. Therefore, we recommend to immediately organize a deep drainage system on the acquired new construction sites. As in all other cases, the project of such a drainage system must be ordered from specialists. Independent incorrect calculation and execution of the drainage system can lead to the fact that waterlogged places on the site will be adjacent to dry ones.

In areas with a pronounced relief, the drainage system can become a beautiful part of the landscape. To do this, an open channel or a network of channels is organized, through which water can freely leave the site. Rainwater from the roof can also be directed into these channels. But readers will certainly agree with the authors that the presence of a large number of channels will bring more inconvenience than benefits from their contemplation. That is why closed-type deep drainage is most often equipped. Opponents of deep drainage may argue that such systems can lead to excessive drainage of fertile soil, which will negatively affect plants. However, any fertile soils have a very good and useful property - they retain exactly as much water in their thickness as necessary, and plants growing on soils take exactly as much water from it as is necessary for their root system.

The main guiding document for the organization of the drainage system is a graphical plan of the drainage system, which indicates everything: the location of the collector and storage wells, the cross section of the drainage pipes and their depth, the cross section of the drainage trench and other useful information. An example of a drainage system plan is shown in the figure.

Consider the main stages of creating a deep drainage site.

Image	Process description
	First of all, the site is marked, in which the position of the main elements of the drainage system is transferred from the plan to the terrain. Drainage pipe routes are marked with a stretched cord, which can immediately be pulled either horizontally or with a slope, which should be in each of the sections.
	A pit is dug under the storage drainage well of the required depth. The bottom of the pit is compacted and 10 cm of sand is poured and compacted on it. The body of the well is tried on in place.
	A trench is dug in the direction from the well towards the beginning of the main collector pipe, the bottom of which is immediately given the desired slope specified in the project, but not less than 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the pipe. The width of the trench in the bottom area is 40 m. The depth depends on the specific project.
	From the collector trench, trenches are dug for drains, which will be connected to the collector pipe. The bottom of the trenches is immediately given the desired slope. The width of the trenches in the bottom area is 40 cm. The depth is according to the project. On clay and loamy soils, the average depth of drains is 0.6-0.8 meters, and on sandy soils - 0.8-1.2 meters.
	The locations of rotary and collector inspection manholes are being prepared.
	After checking the depth and the required slopes, 10 cm of sand is poured onto the bottom of all trenches, which is then wetted and compacted manually.
	Geotextile is lined at the bottom of the trenches so that it also goes onto the side walls. Depending on the depth of the trench and the width of the geotextile fabric, it is fixed either on the walls of the trench or on top.
	The wells are installed and tried on in their places, the places where the couplings are inserted are marked. Then the wells are removed and the necessary couplings are cut into them to connect the drains, the bottoms are mounted.
	Wells are installed in their places, leveled. A layer of crushed granite or washed gravel with a fraction of 20-40 mm, 10 cm thick is poured into the trenches. The crushed stone layer is compacted, the necessary slopes are created.
	The necessary sections of drainage pipes are cut off, which are completed with plugs (if necessary). In most cases, drain-beams are made from pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, and collectors - 160 mm. Pipes are laid in trenches and connected to well couplings and fittings. Their depth and slopes are checked.
	A 20 cm layer of crushed stone or washed gravel is poured over the drains. After tamping, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextiles previously attached to the walls of the trenches or from above.
	The drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, in various places where drains are laid, a large amount of water is poured into the trenches. Its absorption into the crushed stone layer and flow through the rotary, collector wells and getting into the main catchment well are controlled.
	A layer of sand is poured over the geotextile, at least 20 cm thick. The sand is compacted, and on top of it, the trenches are covered with fertile soil - 15-20 cm.
	Covers are put on the wells.

Even if the deep drainage of the site was done without a project, it is still necessary to draw up, on which to indicate the location of the drains and the depth of their occurrence. This will help in the future when carrying out any excavation work to leave the system intact. If the relief allows, then the catchment wells may not be arranged, and the water collected by drains is immediately sent to sewers, reservoirs or a collective storm sewer system. Any of these steps must be coordinated with the neighbors and the administration of the villages. But the well is still desirable, if only to control the GWL and its seasonal fluctuations.

The collector well for collecting groundwater can be made overflow. When the water level in such wells becomes higher than the overflow pipe, part of the water flows through the sewer pipe into another storage well. Such a system allows you to get clean water in the storage well, since all the dirt, silt and debris settles in the collector overflow well.

When well-known thinkers, called great, whose statements are constantly quoted and cited as examples, put their thoughts on paper, they probably did not even suspect that they were writing about deep drainage. Here are some examples:

The collective image of the thinker, which is known to most people, as Kozma Prutkov said: "Look at the root!". Great phrase talking about deep drainage! If the owner wishes to grow garden trees on his site, then he simply must know where the groundwater lies, since their excess in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root system has a bad effect on most plants.
A very famous thinker and “generator of wisdom” Oscar Wilde also said, without knowing it, about deep drainage: “The greatest vice in a person is superficiality. Everything that happens in our life has its own deep meaning.
Stanisław Jerzy Lec said the following about depth: “A swamp sometimes gives the impression of depth.” As well as possible, this phrase fits the drainage, since without it the site may well turn into a swamp.

You can cite many more quotes from great people and connect them with drainage, but we will not distract the readers of our portal from the main idea. For the safety of houses and the comfort of their inhabitants, the creation of ideal conditions for the growth of the necessary plants, the arrangement of a cozy landscape, drainage is definitely needed.

Conclusion

It should be noted that residents of most regions of Russia are unspeakably lucky if the issue of drainage is raised. An abundance of water, especially fresh water, is much better than its lack. Residents of arid and desert regions, after reading such an article, would sigh and say: “We would have your problems!” Therefore, we simply must consider ourselves lucky that we live in a country that does not lack fresh water.

As we have already noted, you can always “negotiate” with water using the drainage system. Modern market abundance offers just a gigantic range of various components, allowing you to create a system of any complexity. But in this matter one must be very selective and careful, since the excessive complexity of any system reduces its reliability. Therefore, we again and again recommend ordering a drainage project from specialists. And the independent implementation of the drainage of the site is quite within the power of any good owner, and we hope that our article will help in some way.

Drainage around the house is an effective way to protect building elements and outbuildings from moisture. The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if the groundwater is at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential structure is located on a site that is prone to seasonal or weather flooding. How to make drainage around the house with your own hands - step by step instructions. The arrangement of the drainage system is not a difficult task, but for its precise organization it is necessary to follow simple rules.

With the help of special drainage pipes LightDrein, you can install the drainage system yourself. See the addresses of stores in Moscow and the Moscow region.

System Description

For the effective removal of ground, rain and melt water, which not only destroy the structural elements of the building, fill the basement and cellar, but also reduce the bearing capacity of the soil, there are several ways to arrange drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, the decision which type to choose and how best to make drainage around the house remains with the owner himself.

The design and location of the protection system against excessive moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of recessed rooms, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: filling, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of the land plot needs to be drained, what type and what depth of drainage will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If necessary, to exclude the effect of water on the foundation and basements, wall or ring drainage is created. The first type is appropriate in the presence of a basement or basement and is located in close proximity to the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the level of the basement floor) and covered with rubble or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-sided conductivity. Water from the ground does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage pipe and is discharged to a safe place.

For effective drainage, you need to know how to properly drain the site. To do this, the drainage system is located around the entire perimeter. The most time-consuming, expensive, but also the most effective way is a closed system using plastic pipes. The price of such perforated pipes is affordable for any family budget. It perfectly removes excess water from the site, preventing mold from forming, destroying garden and garden plants, destroying load-bearing building elements and not spoiling the appearance of the house.

To create such a drainage, you need to perform several operations:

draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the size and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account landscape design and the location of plantings;
mark future tracks on the site itself with paint or sand;
dig trenches along the marked routes with your own hands or with the help of small equipment (the depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextile (the material will significantly reduce drainage clogging and significantly increase the period of effective operation);
apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired slope level;
with a large area of \u200b\u200bthe site, it will be necessary to create manholes at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places where pipes bend or change in slope;
perforated pipes are laid (preferably with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and interconnected using fittings;
the most optimal diameter of the drainage pipe, which provides good water drainage, is 110 mm;
the slope is checked again (can be easily done with a stretched rope), while it is necessary to create a uniform level, excluding sagging of the pipe;
it is very important that the drainage system is below the freezing level of the soil;
from above, the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel, the thickness of the layer should not reach the soil surface of about 15 cm;
geotextiles are laid on a layer of crushed stone and soil is poured.

Do not be afraid of increasing the cost of creating drainage: purchasing additional geotextiles and separating all layers from each other will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system. Following these simple instructions will allow you to install long-term water protection with your own hands and preserve your property and health throughout the life of the house.

Backfill construction

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper groundwater level) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material. The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce sagging and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is easy to create, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form, it does not violate the general appearance of the site and does not introduce dissonance into landscape design. Of the minuses, one can note the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the discharge channel in case of clogging.

Open type drainage device

An open option or surface drainage involves the creation of shallow trenches (about 0.5 meters) of an open type, through which rain and melt water is drained into special containers or removed from the site. To prevent sagging and destruction of the walls of the trenches, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Lattices on top provide additional security.

How to make a closed drainage system

The most complex and time-consuming type of drainage is the closed type. When it is organized, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or large gravel is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again closed with crushed stone or gravel, and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce silting on perforated pipes, filter material (geotextile) is used. The material for the manufacture of perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, ceramics, but at present, almost all types have given way to plastic. Corrugated plastic pipes, which already have holes in finished form, are very long and easy to install, are widely used.

When choosing any method of removing excess moisture, be sure to take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For the system to work properly, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3 ° along one branch or 1 cm per linear meter. When deciding how to properly slope the drainage, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel pad.

The cost of installation work

Name of works			price, rub.
*Ring drainage device around the house*
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well
Wall drainage around the house
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well

* The cost indicated on the site is not a public offer (Article 435 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation) and is for informational purposes.
Pricing also depends on the volume, remoteness of the object and other factors.

Excess water at a country house is even more dangerous than its lack. You need to know how to take it away and save it for later use. Indeed, during the season, the supply of moisture and the need for it are not equivalent, which means that the process must be controlled. This will help local drainage systems.

Drainage systems around the house

Excess water in the soil surrounding a country house can cause irreparable damage to the foundation and buried parts of the building. The reason for this is the hydrological situation at the construction site. This can happen for various reasons:

high location of water-bearing sand, resulting in an increase in the level of moisture in seasonal highs from melting snow;
the presence of waterproof clay soils that prevent the rapid outflow of liquid;
the location of the house in a lowland, which is why drains from the surrounding area are directed towards it.

This is largely due to errors in the design and construction of a house in adverse hydrogeological conditions.

The wall drainage system, together with good waterproofing, removes moisture from the foundation, extending its service life

Types of drainage according to execution

There are several types of drainage systems to remove excess moisture:

Open devices for water discharge. They are made in the form of ditches. To protect against silting, large stones, fragments of brick or crushed concrete are placed at the bottom of the ditch. Such devices are used only to drain liquid from large areas. The sanitary and aesthetic condition of the spillway does not allow it to be used around the house.
Water in such ditches can stagnate, so open drainage is not used in the local area
Filling pipeless systems. They are the same ditches with the same filling. The difference is that the fillers are wrapped with geofabric, which acts as a filter. A gravel cushion and a sandy filter layer are poured over it. The unfilled space is filled with previously excavated soil. The soil is being recultivated, as a result of which the device quickly overgrows with grass and becomes invisible. Cleaning such drains is impossible, they can only be redone.
Backfill drainage is covered with a fertile layer of earth, but it cannot be cleaned when clogged
Closed drainage systems. With this design, the ditch is covered with geofabric with the release of edges on the walls, after which gravel of the middle fraction is poured into it. This is followed by the laying of pipes and their joining with couplings or tees. They are placed with a slope towards the drain of about 2-3 degrees and are covered with gravel from above with a layer of up to 20 centimeters. Then the edges of the geotextile are overlapped. It is advisable to sprinkle this entire “pie” with a layer of coarse sand up to 10–15 centimeters. The surface is leveled by backfilling the previously excavated soil and recultivating the sod layer.
To increase the reliability of drainage, drainage pipes (drains) are covered with a layer of gravel from above

Types of drainage systems for their intended purpose - device and installation

To normalize living conditions in a waterlogged area, several types of drainage systems are used. To remove excess moisture from the site, developed systems are used. The distance between the drains in them is determined by the qualitative characteristics of the soil.

Ring systems

Such drainage schemes are arranged in the absence of recessed premises in the design of a residential building. The distance from the foundation to the drains in this case is 2-4 meters. This is also due to the characteristics of the soils. On heavy loams or clay, the drain is able to drain a limited area around it, and sandy or light sandy soils help to collect water over a larger area.

Inspection or rotary wells are installed at the corners of the drainage system. Their purpose is to inspect the state of the system and, if necessary, to clean the drains from above with pressurized water. Similar wells are also arranged on straight sections more than 10 meters long. In a closed system, water flows through drains into a storage well or a special container - a tank. When the system overflows, automatic pumping of liquid out of the area is activated. After cleaning in the tank, the water is suitable for use for household needs - for washing a car, watering a garden, and so on.

The drainage ring system is often combined with a storm sewer.

Such a system is considered mandatory if the house has recessed rooms - basement or semi-basement. Its device is usually made during the construction process when installing the foundation. The depth of the drains should be below the reference plane of the base of the building by approximately 50 centimeters. The purpose of wall drainage is to collect and remove moisture from the foundation. For its construction, only perforated pipes in geotextile insulation with gravel and sand filters are used.

The wall drainage system is performed as follows:

After proper curing of the concrete foundation, the formwork must be dismantled.
Perform waterproofing of the base wall. To do this, it is better to use bituminous mastic with pre-treatment with a primer. The brand of soil is indicated on the packaging with mastic. Keep the layer for a day, then repeat the operation.
After complete drying, the foundation must be smeared with bituminous mastic for waterproofing
Deepen the ditch along the foundation by about half a meter.
Cover the bottom of the ditch with geofabric, fix the edges on the ditch wall and on the foundation.
Pour gravel to the bottom in a mixture of fine and coarse fractions with a layer of 20 centimeters. If coconut filter pipe is used, coarse sand should be used instead of gravel.
Lay the drains, observing a slope of about 1-2 mm per meter of length in the direction of the liquid flow. Slope control laser or spirit level.
Drainage pipes are laid along the entire perimeter of the foundation with a slope towards the drain collector
Install wells at the corners of the drain system.
Fill the pipes with gravel (or sand) about 20 centimeters above the pipe. Wrap the ends of the geotextile over the gravel with an overlap.
The drainage pipe is covered with a layer of gravel and covered with the rest of the geotextile.
Fill the ditch with previously excavated soil. Alternatively, instead of backfilling with soil, it is possible to make a clay water seal. To do this, the clay in the right amount is soaked with water for a day. Then a solution is prepared from it in the consistency of thick sour cream. Fiber chips must be added to it as a reinforcing element. The solution is laid on top of the geotextile at a level below 10 centimeters from the upper edge of the bituminous waterproofing. Clay seal should be dried for 4-7 days, periodically spraying it with water.

Further actions are carried out in conjunction with the storm sewer device.

Basement drainage (reservoir)

Reservoir drainage is advisable to use with high groundwater or the presence of a reservoir near the house. Basically, it works at the maximum rates of water inflow of a seasonal nature.

Installation of such drainage is carried out during construction before laying the basement in the following order:

A pit is being torn off for a basement device.
On the bottom cleared of construction debris, a geotextile sheet is laid and a gravel cushion is arranged.
Reservoir drainage is arranged in a pit dug and covered with gravel
Drains are laid out and removed for docking with the wall drainage system during its installation. To do this, they are put on steel pipe sleeves in order to subsequently place them in the body of the foundation.
For joining drains, special metal or plastic couplings are used.
After that, the geotextile is wrapped on a gravel layer and the top layer of gravel is poured.
The bottom of the basement and the foundation itself are being poured.
A wall drainage circuit is mounted, a reservoir circuit is connected to it. A well is installed at the junction.

Storm sewer

The name itself suggests that such systems are used to collect and dispose of rain and melt water from the site. Storm drains are especially necessary on soils with a substrate of low-permeability clay layers.

The main functions of storm sewers are:

collection of rain and melt water in storm water inlets;
filtration of drains from sand;
purification of liquid from oil pollution.

If all these functions are implemented as part of a stormwater device, the water from it can be used for household needs.

To implement such tasks, the following devices are needed:

Thus, additional functions of storm systems are implemented:

For storm sewers, the following components are used:

drainpipes and gutters - used as part of the roof of the building to collect water and direct the flow to the drainage system;
trays - are installed to collect the rain flow and transport water to the storage tanks;
storm water inlets - serve to accumulate liquid and its primary sludge until large solid components settle;
collector well - is intended for combining drains from different storm water inlets and final settling of water.

Storm sewer is a surface system, so it does not require significant excavation. A feature of its device is the use of pipes with solid walls for transporting wastewater. The drainage wiring is mounted separately and perforated channels are used on it.

Photo gallery: components of a storm sewer

Do-it-yourself drainage device around the house

The essence of the issue is to practically solve the tasks with minimal expenditure of funds. To do this, it is necessary, first of all, to develop a drainage device.

Drafting a drainage system

This measure can be successfully carried out only on the basis of objective data from a hydrogeological survey of the site. To do this, you can make test drilling at several points. It can be done using a small diameter auger drill. The more holes will be made, the more accurate the information will be for making a decision.

Considering soil samples from different depths of wells, one can get an idea of the quality of soils and their moisture content, that is, to obtain objective information to answer such questions:

at what distance from the walls of the house to install ring drainage;
whether there is a need for a reservoir drainage device;
at what depth to lay drains;
what pipes to choose for the drainage system.

Based on the results of the research, materials are selected, the layout and type of the catchment area are drawn up, and all the necessary components of the system are purchased.

Installation of drains

The system is assembled after laying the geofabric in the trench and backfilling the bottom layer of the gravel pack. The pipes are laid out along the axis of the ditch and the presence and magnitude of the slope in the desired direction are checked. To do this, it is good to use a laser level. For different types of pipes, the angle of inclination should be slightly different, but on average it is enough to provide a slope of 1.5 mm per linear meter of pipeline.

After that:

After completion of work, only well covers and drain grates will remind you of the presence of the system.

Video: drainage device around the house

Getting rid of excess moisture around a country house, you can not only protect yourself from a number of troubles. It is quite possible to use the diverted water rationally. The excess water accumulated in the spring can be very useful during the dry summer.

Water has a destructive power, so drainage around the house should be a top priority for the owner of a private structure. If the walls begin to get wet or moldy fungus stains are visible on them, and puddles appear in the basement, then the process of building destruction has already begun. This results in horrendous cracks and warps in doors and windows. It is possible to create a reliable waterproofing system yourself, although this can be quite a complicated process. But the result will be that the drainage around the house and the blind area will successfully complement each other, as well as create reliable protection for housing from destruction.

The Importance of Planning

There are several common reasons why rainwater and meltwater accumulate at the base of buildings. A lot depends on:

As a result, intense flows regularly wash away the foundation. During the thawing of snow deposits, groundwater rises, and the soil begins to subside. You simply cannot do without a good drainage system.

However, before you make drainage around the house, you must consider the following points:

All this preparation will end with a carefully designed scheme of the waterproofing system. It should be noted the places where inspection and storage wells will be located. Calculate the amount of consumables:

This will require various tools. These include several types of shovels: bayonet and shovels. A wheelbarrow will need to take out excess land, and a puncher will make holes. A pickaxe, a clerical knife and other accessories will not interfere with the master.

Step-by-step instructions for constructing a drainage system

There are several installation options for these dehumidifier systems. Some dig ordinary ditches around the perimeter of the building.
Strengthen them with boards or other material. The disadvantage of such structures is that they spoil the entire interior of the site and quickly become unusable.

Storm drains (surface drainage around the house) are mounted at a certain slope to the base. They consist of pipes, the upper part of which is presented in the form of a grate that traps debris. Instead, special gutters or trays can be used.
Unnecessary moisture will get into them and drain into the place allotted for it. Such a drain is ideal for regions with a humid climate, where it rains very often and there is a lot of snow.

Backfill waterproofing is recognized as the most durable and reliable. Each type of house foundation has its own scheme for installing such drainage. For example, before the slabs are poured, the drainage device must already be laid. Otherwise, you'll have to fiddle around a bit. This does not apply to strip and pile supports.

Preparation

It all starts with the excavation of the foundation of the building. Plates must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and building materials. They must dry well. Then process the outer part of this wall in this way:

primed with bitumen-kerosene agent;
apply mastic made on the basis of bitumen;
on a still dry surface, attach a grid for putty (division of 2 mm);
apply the next layer of coating material 24 hours after the previous one has dried.

In conclusion, it is recommended to clean up the bumps with sandpaper so that the surface becomes smooth. When everything is prepared, you can proceed to the main process.

trench dimensions

A pre-designed site plan, even the most primitive one, will help to correctly mark the territory and use material economically. The foundation drainage device includes a system of properly dug trenches and securely laid pipes. Trenches must meet the following parameters:

the distance from the foundation is not less than a meter or 1.5 m;
the width is calculated as follows: 20 cm are added to the diameter of the pipe;
depth 50 cm below the laying of the foundation of the building;
the slope increases towards the place of liquid collection (1 cm every meter).

Plastic, asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes are successfully used in the installation of drainage systems. Manufacturers produce polymer versions of these items, which are covered with a special shell. This non-woven filter cloth protects containers from the formation of sludge.

To make the desired slope, you need to add sand. After that, it is worth compacting the excavated ditch with a special device and filling it with a 10-centimeter layer of sand mixture. Compact the bottom again, checking the level of inclination.

Pipeline laying

When the trenches are ready, they need to be tightly covered with geotextile material. Each side cut should protrude 30 cm or more, depending on the width of the trench. Pour large-caliber crushed stone / gravel onto the canvas, adjusting it to the slope of the ditch. Laying a pipeline drainage device around the house is as follows:

To prevent leaks at the junction of pipes, winding is used. Several layers of tape for insulation - the key to the tightness of the system.

All these plastic channels must be connected to the main pipe, which removes moisture to the water inlets. Then use river sand to fill the volume of the trenches. Pour the remaining soil over it until a good tubercle forms. Under the influence of external factors, the earth will still sag. As a result, such an embankment will be equal to the horizon and without the formation of a depression.

During these works, you need to constantly check the selected slope. To do this, you can stretch a cord or rope along the house in advance, which will serve as a level.

Intakes/wells

To prevent water from accumulating in the drainage under the house, it should be removed. This can be done using special wells. Moreover, they are needed to systematically clean the structure and regularly service the system. In these wells, which must be removed from the building at a distance of 5 m, all excess moisture is collected. They are installed below the sewer pipe (by 1 m), but not at the same level with groundwater.
Modern projects show that there should be four such water inlets on the site, at each corner of the task.

According to the standards, for drainage systems there are 4 observation type wells, and two - water collection. One is attached to the storm sewer.

The well located at the lowest point will be deeper than all the others. Its diameter depends on the size of the container installed in it:

plastic tank;
welded structures;
reinforced concrete rings;
casting structures.

Cover the bottom of the pit with geotextile material, and then attach the container to the ground so that it does not move in case of landslides. Fill voids with gravel mixed with earth.

In some cases, do-it-yourself drainage around the house requires additional costs. The reception point can be placed an order of magnitude higher than the sewers, then a pumping unit is needed. Sometimes the pipeline does not lie deep enough, so you will need to lay a heating cable.

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If the site is located in a zone of frequent accumulation of moisture, then a drainage system around the house is made without fail. The drainage device will allow you to drain the soil around the perimeter. The constant impact of water on the supporting structures leads to rapid destruction, as the rate of reproduction of microorganisms and fungi increases dramatically.

Preparing a trench for laying pipelines

Drainage system around the house: drainage device in two versions

Channels for water drainage can be laid in two main ways. With an open location, the aesthetic characteristics of the surrounding landscape are violated. Therefore, in most cases, they resort to the device of deep systems, when perforated pipelines are buried in the ground.

Related article:

Benefits of open networks

The advantages of systems with open channels for draining the soil are as follows:

the withdrawal is superficial, therefore it does not require labor-intensive work;
when arranging channels, no additional elements are needed, which avoids unnecessary costs;
the system is effective when used on clay soils.

Helpful information! Despite the positive qualities, open networks are best suited for drainage around the site. It is not recommended to arrange such systems near residential buildings due to low aesthetic characteristics.

Advantages of deep networks

The main advantage of closed networks is the hidden laying of elements, that is, after some time after the completion of work, no traces remain. You can do landscape design without restrictions. However, such systems are poorly effective in the presence of clayey soil located near the surface.

Do-it-yourself ring drainage construction around the house: how to make a reliable system

When a drainage system is arranged around the house with their own hands, several meters recede from the building. At the same time, pipelines of a closed storm sewer can be dug in, which ensures the removal of precipitation from the surface of the roofing and paths.

Do-it-yourself deep drainage device around the house

The process of erecting a closed moisture drainage network is very laborious, as it involves laying pipelines in the ground with subsequent instillation. For work, it is necessary to purchase suitable perforated pipes and geotextiles to protect the surface of the elements from silting.

Note! If you do-it-yourself foundation drainage on clay soils, you can additionally install point devices for collecting water.

Works to create open drainage around a residential building

Open systems are most effective in removing surface water that falls as precipitation. They are ditches with a depth of not more than 50 cm, located along a given trajectory. Perimeter trenches will spoil the appearance of the site, so decorating them is a must.

Natural stones or brushwood are most often used as materials for decoration. First, large cobblestones are laid at the bottom of the ditches, allowing the formation of channels for the passage of water. Then medium-sized stones or tree branches are laid.

This scheme creates an open drainage system around the house. A drainage device of this type is considered quite economical. During the work, additional elements such as pipes and special membranes are not used. The right decor will allow you to successfully fit the gutters into the overall landscape of the site.

Prices for drainage work around the turnkey house: ready-made option

Those developers who do not want to figure out how to properly drain around the house can hire professional workers. Many firms offer a wide range of services for the creation of various systems from design to implementation. The table shows the prices for the full list of works.

Table 1. Average cost of drainage works.

Additional services may be offered for drainage works. They will have to be paid separately. As a rule, firms offer the works presented in the table.

Table 2. Cost of additional services for drainage works.

Note! It is necessary to conclude an agreement on the drainage device on the site with those companies that provide a guarantee. The minimum period of its validity should not be less than 2-3 years.

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