How to make drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands - a step-by-step guide to draining with photos and videos. How to make the drainage of the site with your own hands: we do the drainage correctly by studying the projects and types of systems Drainage pipe around the house

A component of a suburban building and a house adjoining area is the drainage system around the house: the drainage device, its features and installation rules for this design must be studied before starting work. Please read the installation requirements before installation. The technology for creating a wall-mounted drainage scheme is popular.

Drainage design effectively removes water from buildings

The process of arranging a drainage structure is different from waterproofing. But the use of these measures in combination will create a complete protection of the building from moisture.

Proper arrangement of the drainage system around the house will help to reduce the level of excess fluid in the area. The drainage device involves compliance with the installation technology and the use of special materials.

Helpful information! The building can be flooded from the outside and inside. Especially if groundwater runs close to the surface.

Constant exposure to moisture can destroy the foundation of the house and provoke the appearance of putrefactive formations, fungi and other pathogenic microorganisms.

The installation of a wall drainage system is carried out even after the installation of all construction work.

A drainage device is required in the following cases:

the adjoining territory and the rest of the plot are located in a lowland;
clay and loamy soils prevent the absorption of excess moisture;
a large amount of precipitation throughout the year and water accumulates on the surface;
close location of groundwater.

The main types of stormwater and drainage around the house

When deciding how to properly drain around the house, it is worth deciding on important points:

make calculations;
in accordance with the conditions of the area, choose a type of design;
select materials that are suitable for operational and technical characteristics;
make drainage of the foundation and blind areas.

Related article:

Every area needs drainage. But its organization is a rather complicated and expensive process. Let's consider the best option together.

Features of choice for drainage of the foundation

The type of construction is selected taking into account the characteristics of a particular site. Surface structures are of the following types:

storm sewers are installed around the household. Differs in simple technology, is established independently. But such a design will not protect against groundwater;
the linear system is designed to drain the site and the adjacent area. Excess water accumulates in a special well;
point construction is a way to drain the foundation. In this case, moisture is removed from local sources. Such drainage is covered with gratings that protect the device from debris.

Helpful information! On its site, a combined version is used, consisting of a linear and point systems.

Arrangement of high-quality drainage around the house: turnkey price

Turnkey work will have a higher price than the cost of a do-it-yourself drainage system around the house.

But it does offer:

quality of work;
installation in compliance with technological standards;
correct calculations and selection of suitable materials;
speed of work and the absence of gross errors.

The cost of arranging a surface storm drain will cost 1500-1900 per linear meter, and a deeper version - 2300-2700 rubles. Plus, the installation of storm water inlets is added to the indicated cost. When calculating the cost, risers falling from the roof are taken into account.

Popular schemes for the garden plot and foundation

Drainage around the house is of two types: drainage of the base of the building and drains of the garden plot.

To equip the drainage on the site, you should use the following schemes:

selective option;
parallel arrangement;
herringbone.

Drainage systems are of open and closed type. Wall and ring options are used. The wall construction is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation. It should be used in the presence of a basement or basement.

Accurate calculations of the passage of pipes and the level of the floor are assumed by the drainage system around the house. The drainage device at the base of the building includes:

sand cushion;
geotextile material;
pipeline;
a layer of sand;
ground layer;
clay layer.

Helpful information! The depth of the trench is selected in accordance with the location of the base of the foundation, from which you should retreat half a meter down.

Order or do a do-it-yourself drainage device around the house?

The cost of a drainage structure depends on the level of drainage deepening and on the length of the building.

The table shows the prices for the work of wall and ring drainage.

Trench depth, m	The cost of the ring drainage system, rub. per running meter	The cost of the wall drainage structure, rub. per running meter
1	1500	1600
1,5	2550	2500
2	4600	4400
2,5	7100	6900
3	9500	9600

Installing a collector well for any of their schemes will cost 35,000 rubles. For do-it-yourself drainage of the foundation on clay soils, it must be borne in mind that precipitation will accumulate in the upper soil layer.

How to do wall drainage

Before arranging the wall system, you will need to carry out the following work:

surface treatment with a primer solution;
applying bituminous mastic;
installation of reinforcing mesh;
surface drying;
distribution of the second layer of mastic.

Mounting technology

The basic order of work on the drainage system consists of the following steps:

a collector well is placed in a low place;
using the building level, a recess is made with a slope towards the water collector;
a sand cushion is made;
geofabric is laid on top;
a layer of gravel is formed;
pipes are installed at an angle;
connection of pipeline parts using adapters and corner connectors;
placement of manholes;
pouring another layer of gravel;
wrapping highways with geotextile fabric;
filling trenches with sand or earth.

Related article:

Few people know that this material is used in almost all areas of construction. In this review, we will consider the types, technical characteristics and prices of geotextiles.

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house: how to do it yourself

To create a similar scheme around the building, a closed-type trench is made, which are also made with a slope.

The technology consists of the following steps:

pouring sand on the bottom and laying geofabric;
a pillow is created from crushed stone;
installation of pipes with a slope of 2 degrees;
installation of wells for inspection;
rubble mound;
winding with free edges of geotextile fabric;
filling trenches with soil and sand.

Installation of a drainage structure without pipes

You can create drainage without pipes. At the same time, improvised materials are used: fragments of brick, concrete, stones and even plastic bottles. Used bunches of brushwood, long knots and boards. But such designs are not of high quality.

By following the rules of installation technology, you can create a durable drainage system.

Drainage system of groundwater and wastewater in a private house (video)

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Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to protect against melt water and showers Geotextile for drainage (geotextile): types and characteristics of the material

There are several places in a private house that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. This is the foundation and recessed buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of runoff and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of the basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent the occurrence of this process. It is able to remove excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot be compared in terms of the degree of protection of a house with a laid drainage system. It is highly recommended to equip such a system near each house, regardless of the presence of a basement or basement.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several ways:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a particular type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the relief of the site itself. Consider what features the drainage device around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:

Important: Please note that reservoir drainage does not replace other types of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, the main drainage system should be carried out.

Please note that if you decide to do ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. Such an arrangement will ensure high-quality removal of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about that, then our separate material on this topic may be useful to you.

Drainage installation

Consider how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Production of wall drainage

Before performing work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will directly adjoin it.

For this, the following work is carried out:

The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bituminous primer.
Bituminous mastic is applied to the dried surface.
A reinforcing mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued onto the mastic.
The next day, after the mastic has hardened, the second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

In the photo, the drainage system around the house is a trench and manholes along the edges

a collector well is mounted, to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench passing near the foundation is ensured towards the water collector;
the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be overlapped;
a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of the order of 10 cm;
prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. They are provided with a slope of 2 degrees;
pipes are joined by adapters and corner connectors;
at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter the installed manholes;
pipes are laid from the manholes, diverting water into a collection well or drain pit. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
the pipes are backfilled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped with geotextiles. By means of synthetic ropes, the geotextile is firmly fixed;
further backfilling of the trenches to the level of the soil is carried out with sand or soddy soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Production of an annular drainage

For this type of work, you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When an annular drainage system is made around the house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building in order to exclude the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the building and represent a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes below the level of the foundation by 50 cm.

A trench (or several trenches) is immediately carried out towards the main catchment well. The slope of the trenches is provided at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped around their walls;
crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile with a layer of 10 cm;
pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on crushed stone. It is desirable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to pre-wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent their clogging;

Tip: Ordinary PVC pipes used for sewerage are quite suitable. In them, you can drill holes of small diameter with a drill, placing them in a certain order.

the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
manholes are mounted at pipe bends, closed with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, with a step of 12 m;
crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes with a layer of 20-30 cm;
the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with overlapping geotextiles;
the place remaining in the trenches is covered with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or structure should be constructed using multiple manholes located at pipe bends. It is in these places that clogging of drainage pipes most often occurs. Through the manhole, you can control the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any material. They should be of such a width that it is convenient to clean them by lowering your hand there.

In addition to several manholes, at the lowest point of the site is located collector well designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen in such a way that the pipes entering it are at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to be filled with sewage. From the collector tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or go by gravity to designated places.

By creating a drainage system around the house in accordance with all the rules, you will get rid of the detrimental effect of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed rooms of the house.

The primary task of every owner of a private house is to protect their home from flooding by equipping a drainage system around it. If this measure is neglected, the consequences can be disastrous - up to the destruction of the foundation and the appearance of cracks in the walls. Agree, it is much easier to prevent problems than to deal with them later. Moreover, you can organize a protective system even with your own hands. So that you do not fail in this matter, we propose to learn more about the features, functions and types of drainage, as well as to understand in detail how to perform its installation around the house with high quality.

Purpose of the drainage system

Surely one of your friends has experienced basement flooding, excessive moisture in the walls or deformation of ceilings and floors - these are direct consequences of the lack of a high-quality drainage system around the house. The bottom line is that melt and groundwater have an extremely detrimental effect on various structural elements of the home: they provoke the emergence of all kinds of fungi and gradually destroy the foundation. And the only way to avoid such negative phenomena is to organize good drainage, which will remove excess moisture from the house.

Drainage is an extensive engineering system consisting of interconnected trenches, pipes and a well, in which water accumulates. Its device is required in the following cases:

the floors are located on the base, which is grounded to a depth of less than 13 cm;
the basement and communication channels are at a height of less than 50 cm in relation to groundwater;
the house was built on clay or loamy soil;
groundwater is too high.

wall drainage

Types of drainage

Based on the method of arrangement, there are two main types of drainage: wall and ring.

A wall drainage system is recommended for those private houses where there are basements, basements or any technical rooms. It is laid around the base of the building at a distance of 3 m from the walls. The recommended drainage depth is at least 50 cm from the bottom of the foundation. In connection with such a depth, it is advisable to install the wall system even in the process of building the foundation - at the stage when the base pit has not yet been completely filled up. Otherwise, you will need to re-dig a deep trench, which will entail extra cash and labor costs.

The ring system is suitable for houses without plinths and basements. It is laid with a small distance from the walls - by 1.5-3 m. The recommended depth is 30 cm from the lowest point of the foundation. The ring system is easier to implement and can be equipped both during construction and after the dwelling is put into operation. Drainage is the best option for protecting a house located on difficult clay soil.

Despite some functional differences, both types of drainage have approximately the same laying pattern. It includes two main stages: preparatory work and direct installation.

Preparing to install a drain

Before starting the organization of the drainage system, it is necessary to qualitatively protect the base of the house: treat the outer side of the foundation with a bituminous primer, apply bituminous mastic on top, lay a regular painting or reinforced mesh on a new layer and cover it with an additional mastic ball.

Next, dig a trench 40 cm wide around the house. Its depth will directly depend on the type of drainage. Create a uniform slope in the trench to drain the water: gradually fill in the sand, regularly measuring the height differences with a laser level. You can alternate the layer of fine and coarse sand. The slope is necessary to ensure the unhindered outflow of the collected water into the collection ditch or general. Keep in mind that the water collection area should be located at some distance from the home.

Advice. To calculate the slope, measure the distance from the drain point to the top of the trench - the required slope will be 1% of the figure obtained.

After that, lay a geotextile on the sand and cover it with a 15 cm layer of well-washed gravel, maintaining the required slope. At the end of the preparatory stage, make recesses in the gravel for the installation of drainage pipes.

Drainage system device

Now you can start organizing the drainage system. This stage includes the following steps:

Scheme of arrangement of the drainage system

Install drainage pipes - use perforated PVC products. Perforations should be smaller than the size of the gravel used to avoid clogging. Lay pipes with a mandatory slope towards the drain, equal to 2% of the total length of the system. To adjust the uniformity of the slope, pull a cord or rope along the equipped pipeline.

Advice. If you wish, you can make drainage pipes yourself: just make holes of the required diameter in the walls of ordinary PVC sewer pipes.

Connect pipes securely.
Install at each turn of the pipeline one vertical pipe with a tight-fitting top cover and connect horizontal PVC products to it. These vertical pipes are needed to clear blockages in the system.
Install a collection well in the connection area of all drainage pipes. You can either use a ready-made plastic device or build a device yourself from reinforced concrete rings. In this case, the bottom of the well must be concrete in any case. The top of the device should be closed with a cast-iron hatch.
Bring the finished drainage system to the drain - a regular drain or a special collection well.
Cover the pipes with a geotextile, securing it with a nylon rope or polypropylene tape. Lay 15 cm of washed gravel on top, and then lay the geotextile again, but with a slight overlap. And in the final, close the resulting structure with coarse sand.

We think you are convinced that the independent installation of a drainage system around a private house is an absolutely feasible task even for a non-professional. The main thing in this matter is to decide on the type of drainage and strictly adhere to the rules for its construction. Remember that by making an effort once, you will save yourself from many problems in the future and forget about the risk of flooding your home.

How to make drainage around the house: video

Drainage around the house: photo

A well-built foundation for a house guarantees its longevity. It is the base that distributes the load and pressure of the building over the entire surface. In order for the foundation to have such qualities as durability, strength and reliability, it is necessary to install drainage around the house. In this article we will tell you how to properly make drainage around the house with your own hands.

Note! Only a properly installed drainage system will protect the building from the influence of groundwater, flooding and high humidity.

It is no secret that many, trying to save on construction, do not install a drainage system. This leads to the appearance of cracks in the base and its subsequent destruction within 2 years.

Consider the main cases when a drainage system is essential:

Groundwater is located fairly close to the surface.
Construction is being carried out on a swampy area.
High level of soil freezing.
Climatic features include frequent rains.

Why is it necessary to install a drainage system around the building?

The copious amount of snowfall during the winter puts a lot of pressure on the building. So that it does not collapse, a drainage system is used.
Water entering the cracks of the foundation gradually leads to its cracking and subsequent destruction.

The main types of drainage

According to the installation method, the drainage system can be:

Perfect.
imperfect.

The perfect system is installed at the level of water flow. Moisture gets into it through the holes on the sides, as well as through the top. The remaining sides are recommended to be covered and compacted with layers of gravel and sand.

The imperfect type system is installed above the water level. Moisture gets on it from above, below, on the sides. The sides of the structure must also be reinforced with a drainage cushion of sand and gravel.

Varieties

The drainage device around the house can have the following varieties:

Plast.
Annular.
Wall mounted.

Reservoir drainage

Reservoir drainage is an auxiliary structure. It is usually used as an addition to the main structures in cases where groundwater is at a shallow depth.

Note! Reservoir drainage is used in construction on clay soils and is located at a short distance from the foundation.

Ring drainage system

Drainage using ring drainage will protect basements and basements from flooding.

Note! The design is optimal when working on soil with a high content of sand, because it passes well and practically does not retain moisture.

To avoid flooding, it is necessary to use ring drainage.

The scheme is a vicious circle that does not let water through.
It is possible to break the circle if the water flows only from 1 side of the building.
The drainage system prevents flooding of the basement, so it is recommended to install it below the level of the basement.
Ring drainage is built at a distance of 2-3 m from the walls of the building. This is necessary to prevent the destruction of the soil on the site.

The most common type of drainage system is wall drainagebecause such a device protects both the building and the basement from moisture.

Note! Wall drainage is recommended for construction on soils with a high clay content.

This type of construction is optimal for protecting the foundation from moisture ingress.
It is recommended to use in areas with a heterogeneous soil composition.
With close groundwater it is the ideal solution.

The structure is mounted at a distance of at least 50 cm from the walls of the building.

Drainage is installed below the level of the basement.

The principle of operation of the drainage system

All types of drainage systems have similar operating principles.

The design is a closed system of interconnected pipes.
Installation is carried out below the level of the base of the building.
To allow moisture to drain, the drainage system is installed at an angle.
Before starting construction work, it is necessary to clarify the height of the location of groundwater. To do this, dig a layer of earth at a depth of at least 2–3 m and assess the condition of the soil.
For the accumulation and subsequent removal of water, it is necessary to dig a well in the corner of the building with a drainage system outside the construction site.
When the drainage system is built correctly, there will be no dampness and humidity in the basement and basement rooms. If they are present, errors were made during the work.
You can increase the quality of the drainage system by installing an additional waterproofing system.

Self-manufacturing

Preparatory work. Studying the terrain, determining the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater.
Building foundation preparation. Digging a trench around the perimeter of the base. Removal of dirt and a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing.
Drying the cleaned foundation. Natural drying takes 5-7 days. Faster in hot weather. When using mechanical means, for example, a heat gun, drying takes 1 day.
Application of a waterproofing layer, for which bitumen or polyethylene can be used.
Installation of a drainage system.

Note! Depending on the type of foundation, the drainage system should have different characteristics.

Consider these characteristics on the example of the most commonly used types of tape and slab bases.

When carrying out construction work, it is important to observe the following rules:

A trench should be dug around the entire perimeter of the base. Its depth should be large enough and exceed the depth of the foundation.
The bottom of the trench must be covered with a drainage cushion. Its height is at least 30 cm. Composition: a layer of coarse river sand 15 cm and a layer of fine gravel 15 cm. This pillow must be compacted and spilled with water.
The drainage system is strengthened by a specially installed ceiling structure.
For drainage pipes, waterproofing must be done using bitumen or polyethylene.
To drain the accumulated moisture, it is recommended to install a well with drainage outside the site.

When carrying out work, you must follow the basic rules:

First, the construction of the drainage system is carried out, and only then the foundation. This is necessary for the preservation of the foundation of the building when the soil is displaced.
Work on the construction of the drainage system must be carried out with high quality, because the durability and strength of the entire structure depends on it.
The drainage system is installed in a specially prepared pit. Its depth depends on the calculation of the location of the foundation.
The bottom of the pit is necessarily covered with a brick battle and a drainage cushion, which consists of layers of sand and fine gravel. The surface of the pillow is well compacted.
Pipes are strengthened with the help of specialized ceilings.
The surface of the pipes should be sealed with geotextile material.
To accumulate and remove water, it is recommended to dig a well and install a pipe in it that extends beyond the site.

Before proceeding with the self-installation of the drainage system, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the proposed recommendations. Compliance with the basic rules and norms of construction will forever forget the problem of dampness in the room

Video

This video provides installation instructions for surface drainage systems (drainage):

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after snow melt does not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system needed?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and diverting ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents washing out, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

The arrangement of the drainage system is not necessary in every area. In order to determine how badly your site needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and heavy rain. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

Drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - using a hand drill or a conventional shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

high occurrence of groundwater;
the site is located in an area with clay soil;
the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a wide variety of land drainage systems. At the same time, in various sources, their classification can be very different from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven snowmelt.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

A surface drainage system is constructed over the area of the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

Point - in some sources it is designated as local drainage. It is used to collect and divert water from a certain place on the site. The main area of application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area of containers and irrigation taps. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grates and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the most efficient operation of the system. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the groundwater level. Drains are laid with observance of a slope in the direction of the flow of water, which enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80-150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to divert water from the foundation of the building, the pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of the site with a certain step. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their laying and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when constructing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil, under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths of laying can be seen in the table below. The information is taken from the book "Draining land for gardens" by A.M.Dumblyauskas.

Drainage depth, m	Distance between drains, m
Drainage depth, m	sandy soil	loamy soil	Clay soil
0,45	4,5–5,5	4–5	2–3
0,6	6,5–7,5	5–6,5	3–4
0,9	9–11	7–9	4–5,5
1,2	12–15	10–12	4,5–7
1,5	15,5–18	12–15	6,5–9
1,8	18–22	15–18	7–11

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then to give a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is observed.

When arranging drainage of a long length, a minimum slope must be observed along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the start and end points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope standards. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring out 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest way with instructions

In order to independently carry out the drainage of a land plot through a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare a tool and a place to perform work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining suburban areas of a small area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can use the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a drainage route in the shape of a Christmas tree. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at their summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and a bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. As materials, it will be necessary to prepare gravel of a fraction of 20–40, geotextiles, an edged bar or a board 2–3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage in a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, the water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more laborious and requires the ability to work with concrete mix.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective pavement around the building, concrete or slab paths. If necessary, their partial dismantling can be performed, but in general the structure will not suffer.

An example of a project for a drainage system in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the point of discharge of water, that is, the place from which the collected water will drain into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing level of the soil. For the Northwestern region, this value is about 60–80 cm.
Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage
Taking into account the plan, a trench is excavated along the perimeter and area of a site up to 1 m deep. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, the trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the runoff, the trenches are shed with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.
A pit for a drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site
At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filtering drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clay soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, both storage and filter wells can be used. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.
A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.
Fine-grained gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
In places where the drain turns, modular manholes are installed. The diameter and height of the well depend on the estimated volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.
An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns
Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, a large amount of water is drained through the drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
A 20–30 cm layer of gravel with a fraction of 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10-15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured over the geotextile and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain a site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnant water in the area are not always associated with a high level of groundwater. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one way to drain a site without drainage.

If, due to some circumstances, the installation of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m 3 of soil is enough.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

The arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the easiest way to drain a summer cottage. Despite the general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with a large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Work on the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under the turf layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main cause of stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not provide a constant and uniform discharge of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel cable to clean the drains. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other - a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of blockage.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm and more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drain pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to eliminate the blockage, then it will be necessary to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnant water on the site are a big problem that affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.

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