Warm walls in the house. Warm electric walls

Every person who has conceived the repair of an apartment at least once asks himself the question: should I break this wall, and should I move this partition two meters to the right and at an angle of 45?

I will not consider issues related to various building codes and approvals here, because this is not a topic for an article, but for a whole book, but suppose that all the treasured papers with signatures and seals are in your pocket, all the partitions that interfere with the flight of your imagination demolished and it remains only to start the construction of new ones.

First of all, you should understand what you need from your walls.

Will it be just a partition separating one room from another, or something more. Whether you need heat and sound insulation or not, whether there will be a niche or an arched opening in your wall. Or maybe you put a sliding door and want it to go inside the wall, or you can’t imagine your life without regular sports, but you don’t know whether it is possible to fix a horizontal bar or wall bars on your new partition or not. And so on...

warm walls

Wall thermal insulation is relevant for those who live in corner apartments, when two walls of the room are facade, or in case of any facade defects, because in a normal house built in compliance with all building codes and without violating technology, there should not be such problems .

So, obviously, only the outer wall should be insulated. As a heater, glass wool, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is usually used. Then the insulation is covered with plasterboard sheets fixed to the frame in one or two layers. Mineral wool and glass wool have approximately the same thermal conductivity.

There is a prejudice against glass and mineral wool as unhealthy, but this is not true. In fact, it is harmful to breathe microparticles, which are present in the form of dust in the air during the installation of mineral and glass wool. Therefore, when working with them, you must use a respirator. After the insulation is closed with drywall, it does not pose any danger, in addition, it is an absolutely non-combustible material. The most famous brands in the Moscow market of building insulating materials made of glass and mineral wool are ISOVER, ROCKWOOL, URSA.

Expanded polystyrene is a more efficient insulation, as it has a lower thermal conductivity. The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene include a higher price compared to mineral and glass wool, as well as the fact that it is a moderately combustible material. When insulating walls with expanded polystyrene, it is advisable to use grades with the addition of a flame retardant - a substance that reduces its combustibility.

Silent walls

If you want peace and quiet, but cheerful neighbors throw parties every day, or you want to install a home theater in the living room and there is a nursery in the next room, then soundproofing the walls is just what you need. In principle, the materials and technologies used for sound insulation are very similar to thermal insulation, but there are some differences. When soundproofing walls and partitions, a combination of materials of different densities is used. For example, mineral and glass wool - as a material with a low density, and as facing panels, not plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame, but gypsum fiber ones, which have a higher density. There are others, including specialized, soundproof and sound-absorbing materials, but their significant drawback is their very high price.

Do not forget that with both heat and sound insulation, you will have to sacrifice the area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment, since the thickness of the walls will increase by at least 6 cm.

All that has been said about sound insulation is true in relation to any of the partitions, which will now be discussed.

Types of partitions

Partitions made of plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheets I have already considered, I will only add that they are very convenient for creating curved surfaces, various niches, columns, arches, etc. An important point is that they are quickly mounted and do not require plastering. Inside such partitions it is convenient to place electrical, telephone and Internet wiring, antenna cable.

The disadvantage of such partitions is the inability to attach heavy objects to a single-layer partition.

But there are several solutions - using a two-sheet cladding on each side, laying a wooden beam in the metal U-shaped racks of the partition frame, as well as attaching plywood to the frame before installing drywall sheets.

Brick partition. The most traditional. Brick for partitions in an apartment is best to use ceramic, solid or hollow. Solid brick is good for building partitions on which something heavy will be hung (for example, a sliding two-section oak door). It is also easy to equip niches, arches, etc. in such a wall.

The disadvantage of brick partitions is the obligatory plastering of the surface before final finishing and a longer construction time compared to other technologies.

Partition of gas silicate and foam concrete blocks. Such partitions are built much faster than brick ones, but surface plastering is also necessary.

Partition of tongue-and-groove gypsum boards. This is a very convenient material, the walls of it are built very quickly, do not require plastering and are ready for final finishing.

Unfortunately, expanded clay, foam concrete blocks and tongue-and-groove slabs have some limitations in terms of design, but, as practice shows, such problems are quite rare.

All of the above types of partitions are non-combustible and have good soundproofing properties.

How to make a wall smooth

It is important to keep in mind that plastering is not required for tongue-and-groove boards and drywall. But we plaster and putty brick, expanded clay and foam concrete partitions.

In my opinion, it is better to use gypsum plaster.

It is, of course, more expensive than a conventional cement-sand mixture, but it has undoubted advantages over it: it is much more convenient to use, dries faster, has better adhesion and allows you to achieve smoother surfaces, which will subsequently save on expensive putty.

Do not forget that putty for painting is more expensive than for wallpaper.

When puttying for painting, it is advisable to apply a finishing putty with a very fine filler fraction to the walls: 0.1 mm is the maximum, and even less is better. Gypsum plaster mixes and fillers are represented on our market by the brands KNAUF, VETONIT, CONSOLIT, UNIS, PRODUCERS, BOLARS.

Now that we have got even and smooth walls, the most crucial moment has come - what type of finish to choose. There are quite a lot of options here, and it’s impossible to talk in detail about each within the framework of this article, but it’s worth listing: wallpapering, wallpapering for painting, painting with simple, multi-colored and immiscible multi-color paint, decorative painting, Venetian plaster, facing panels from various materials, decorative stone (for the last two types of finishes, wall putty is not required) and so on. The choice in this case is yours. From my own experience, I can say that the most important thing here is the overall intelligible concept of the entire project and the quality of its implementation.

If you do not really trust the builders and are afraid that they use cheaper materials than those specified in the estimate, then it is worth appearing in the apartment several times during the construction of walls. It is very difficult to distinguish, for example, a more expensive and high-quality tongue-and-groove slab of a well-known brand from a cheaper "no name" slab (it's not worth talking about brick, expanded clay and foam concrete). But to see how the workers plaster and putty your walls is quite real. The difference in the price of these materials from different manufacturers is very significant.

When soundproofing walls, it is very important that an elastic tape is glued between the frame for gypsum fiber sheets and the floor, ceiling and walls. If this is not done, then your wall will be an excellent resonator for impact noise transmitted through the floors.

The outer corner of the wall or partition must be closed with a special plaster corner to avoid damage.

Many people are concerned about the practicality of this or that wall covering - the possibility of easy cleaning from pollution, durability and ease of repair. Obviously, strong and smooth coatings (as opposed to brittle and textured ones) are the most practical. When repairing this or that damage, the greatest problems can arise with the restoration of surface texture and decorative coloring.

And the last thing, I’ll add just in case: upon completion of the repair, be sure to save one roll of each type of wallpaper used.

In this article, we will analyze in detail all the stages of installing water-heated walls and floors. What are water warm walls and floors? This is the so-called heating system with heated water circulating through pipes. Before proceeding with the installation of walls, a beginner in this matter needs to master elementary theoretical knowledge. Then you can proceed directly to practical activities.

After reading the article, you will learn a competent approach to work. You can directly proceed with the step-by-step installation of the walls. You will also learn certain nuances during installation work. Thus, the knowledge gained will allow you to either start the installation yourself warm water walls, or fully be able to direct and control the work of specialists.

To the question of customers of installation works. Quite often, the owners of baths order warm water walls and floors, because the environmental conditions in the steam room oblige the room to warm up well. For example, in a Turkish bath, a hamam, the temperature of the floor and walls is maintained at around 40 degrees, and the air humidity is 100%. In a Russian bath, the optimum temperature of the walls is 60 degrees, with an air humidity of 60%.

Preparation and insulation of walls

Consider an example of installing water-heated walls and floors using the example of a bathhouse with the above environmental parameters. First you need to decide on the location of the steam room. The walls themselves do not have to be high. Naturally, a prerequisite for them is a perfectly flat and plastered surface. So, the use of a gas silicate block will achieve the desired result.

Then the heat-insulating panel is installed from, however, its fastening should not be made of plastic material, since the expected high temperature in the steam room can melt the fasteners. The best option would be to "plant" the plate on a special foam. Moreover, it is necessary to apply foam on the plate twice for better fastening and press the extruded polystyrene foam against the wall also twice. The wall is pre-dusted with a primer and treated with a waterproofing layer. As for floor insulation, the difference from wall insulation is that a polyethylene film is placed on top of the heat-insulating panel made of extruded polystyrene foam.

Simply press onto extruded polystyrene foam. Then there will be no gap between the mesh and the polystyrene.
Attach with a chemical dowel with two washers to achieve a distance between the mesh and the polystyrene of about one centimeter. This will allow the pipe to be located further from the wall, due to this it is better to warm the room. A chemical dowel must be used if the wall masonry is based on a gas block (or foam block). In case brick or other material is used, conventional anchors can be dispensed with as fastening. According to the technique of performing work, it is more convenient to first cut the mesh, then fix it.

Installation of pipes for warm walls

The next step is to install a warm wall pipe. It is much more pleasant for a specialist, as well as a simple layman, to work with a metal-plastic construction. Since it bends without problems and takes the necessary shape. The diameter of the pipes should be about 16-20 millimeters. It is advisable to use a pipe bender. If a specialist uses metal-plastic pipes, it is very easy to observe the necessary step between them. The variable step of laying pipelines of the warm wall system allows you to achieve uniform distribution of heat in the room. Usually, for this, in a section of 1-1.2 meters from the floor, metal-plastic pipes are laid in increments of 10-15 centimeters; in a section of 1.2-1.8 meters from the floor - the step increases to 20-25 centimeters, and above 1.8 meters - the step of the pipes is about thirty, forty centimeters. In this case, the direction of movement of the coolant is always taken from the floor to the ceiling. Particular attention must be paid to ensure that the pipe lines are mounted evenly.

When mounting pipes in the steam room, four contours are obtained - three on the walls and one on the floor. The best option is one circuit per wall. In the case of an external wall, compensation for heat loss to the external environment will be provided, in the case of an interior wall, two rooms will be heated at once. The dimensions of the contour depend on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it must go inextricably. It is advisable not to make frequent turns of the pipe one hundred and eighty degrees, because of this part of the heat will be lost, and also to organize joints. Each circuit has its own supply and return pipes. On one of the walls, it is imperative to leave space for two pipes for the floor. It is better to insulate the main pipes of the warm wall that extend beyond the steam room so that it is not too hot in the recreation area of the bath, and also so that the pipe gives off less heat.

Pipe loops can be fixed with any device, as long as they remain intact. For example, a direct suspension is taken, bent in a suitable way and twisted into dowels pre-installed in the wall. In places where the pipes will pass through the corner of the room, it is recommended to make recesses in advance, thereby increasing the turning radius. Otherwise, either the corner may be bent, or the pipe of the warm wall will become visible.

"Filling" warm walls

Further, the second layer of poppy mesh is attached to the already installed pipes. The second layer of mesh is necessary in order to better distribute heat and keep the solution well. It is required to start pouring concrete from the floor, allowing it to harden well (in time it takes one week, up to a maximum of ten days). Then take on the warm walls - set the formwork at a distance of three centimeters from the pipe. After laying concrete on the wall. Well, of course, plaster, and put ceramic tiles on top. Warm walls and floor are ready!

Thus, the installation of warm water walls is a fairly simple technology that does not require special efforts and the use of welding or metal-cutting tools. Installation of warm walls is practically no different from floor heating systems. This design provides comfortable microclimate conditions in the room, has a beneficial effect on health. And if desired, warm walls can be made with your own hands.

For some reason, there is an opinion that the heating system is not sufficiently efficient. However, it is very popular in some European countries (for example, in Germany), where a large number of high-rise buildings are heated with warm walls. It is unlikely that this was done only to speed up the pace of construction ... In fact, the heating system with warm walls has many advantages.

Advantages of heating with warm water walls

Water warm walls provide the premises with high-quality, i.e., the most favorable heat for people (the word “quality” means radiant heat, which is precisely the most favorable for us).

It makes sense to talk about the merits of something only in comparison with something else. And since we have compared warm walls with a warm floor above, we will continue their comparison.

The vertical projection of the human body is 23 times smaller than our lateral unfolded surface. That is, in order for us to feel more comfortable standing and sitting even at low air temperatures, radiant heat should be emitted not by floors, but by walls! The heat that warm floors give, we feel only due to the direct contact of the foot (thermal conduction) and the movement of warm air (convection). And the most high-quality and healthy radiant heat - a little! I suppose it is easy to conclude in favor of heating with warm walls.

Another plus is the reduction to a minimum (or complete absence) of convective air flows in the room, hence the lack of dust circulation around the room.

Unlike warm floors, warm walls can use water at a higher temperature (up to 70 degrees), and the temperature difference in the supply and return can reach 15 degrees (in a warm floor, 10 degrees maximum). What does it give us? The circulation pump can be used with smaller capacities, which means that it will consume less electricity, and the price of such a pump is also less.

The step of laying the wall pipeline is not limited by anything, since temperature differences are allowed between adjacent sections of the wall. And these differences are not felt by a person. That is, less pipes will go to the same area as the floor area.

As mentioned above, heating with warm walls saves on energy.

Where does the energy savings come from when heating with warm walls?

It turns out that with this type of heating, a person is comfortable even at a lower temperature than if the heating was radiator and the heat spread in the room convectively. That is, the air will need to be heated by 1.5 ... 2 degrees less (seemingly small numbers, but in the end the energy savings are noticeable: 8 ... 11% of fuel is saved). Well, I already talked about the pump ...

Scheme of the heating system with warm water walls

Warm walls schematically look like this:

As in the underfloor heating system, there is a collector (1), and pipeline loops (4) are separated from it along the walls. In diagram 2 - wall cladding, 3 - reflective plates, the task of which is to improve heat transfer and make it uniform.

The only subtlety here: since the loops are located vertically, you need to remove the air that can accumulate at the highest points (but more on that later).

Types of structures of water warm walls

Structurally warm walls can be made in two ways: with a horizontal arrangement of pipes:

And with vertical:

With horizontal pipes, it will be easier to remove air from the system.

Thanks to the variable pitch of the pipe, it is possible to achieve the most ideal distribution of heat in the room. So, at a height of 1.2 m from the floor, lay the pipes in increments of 10 ... 15 cm; from 1.2 to 1.8 m from the floor, increase the step to 20 ... 25 cm; above 1.8 m, the pipe pitch is allowed 30 ... 40 cm:

The direction of movement of the coolant is taken from the floor to the ceiling, so the warmest areas are located at the bottom of the wall.

Since warm walls are sources of radiant energy, they must be positioned so that they are not then covered by furniture.

Heating by one loop of two adjacent rooms is allowed. That is, a partition between rooms is made a warm wall.

When and where is heating with warm walls used?

When there is no free space in the room, because of which underfloor heating will be inefficient (in bathrooms, garages, swimming pools, workshops ... they say so, but I would doubt about workshops and garages - and what kind of master does not dream of wall-to-wall racks Again, judging by myself, you may have other preferences).

When there is little furniture and equipment along the walls in the room (offices, corridors, auditoriums, bedrooms, halls, recreations, etc.).

Where the floor humidity is high (bathrooms, laundries, pools, sinks), which is why the warm floor will not be effective for heating, because a lot of its energy will be spent on evaporating water from the surface.

By the way, nothing prevents you from making a combined heating system from warm walls and underfloor heating so that they complement each other with insufficient power of one system. For example, there is not enough power for a warm floor - we make warm walls under the windows (and not radiators):

Or warm walls + radiators: most of the time the warm wall is on, and the radiators are turned on only to warm up the room quickly or during extreme frosts. Another option is a combination of all three water heating systems: warm walls + warm floors + radiators. This is if the walls are brick, not insulated, and large heat losses take place through them (to be honest, it’s not clear why bother with so many systems and then pay for their work when you can invest in warming a house once? But - everyone goes crazy for to his own).

Design features of the system of water warm walls

If the warm wall system is mounted on an outer wall, then special attention should be paid to the calculation of temperature conditions, namely: where and how thick should the insulation be on the walls? With external wall insulation, the freezing point shifts into the thickness of the insulation, so non-frost-resistant materials can be used for such walls. The disadvantage of such insulation: in addition to energy costs for direct heating of the room, energy is spent on heating the wall.

Another option - the wall is insulated from the inside of the room. Then the freezing point of the wall also shifts inward. But no longer a heater, but the wall itself. In this case, frost-resistant wall materials must be used, otherwise the wall will freeze and condensation will appear (between the wall and the insulation and in the thickness of the wall itself). Operational control of the coolant temperature is also important.

If the walls are not insulated at all, miscalculations or delays in temperature control can lead to significant heat loss through the exterior walls. Large heat losses are obtained due to the large difference in temperature between indoor and outdoor air. And large heat losses lead to a large amount of moisture condensation from the steam that enters the outer wall from the room during diffusion (I suppose it is clear that this condensation occurs inside the wall? That is, in severe frost this moisture can freeze, when it freezes, the water expands - the wall collapses; do you need it?).

After calculating the heat gains, the following must be taken into account: the warm wall system can be made on internal walls, moreover, on the one hand:

Heat during this installation is distributed as shown in the figure: 70% to the room where the pipe is laid, 30% to the adjacent room (in the absence of thermal insulation between the rooms). This can be taken into account in the design and calculations.

Although structurally water-heated walls are very similar to water-heated floors, there are a number of features here and they must be taken into account when designing or installing. So, the speed of water in the pipes of warm walls should not be lower than 0.25 m / s (this is calculated in a special program, which we will talk about in other materials). Why? At such and high speeds, air pockets are “washed out”. If the coolant velocity is too low, airing of the system is very likely.

In the underfloor heating system, the removal of air from the system is achieved very simply: we put the air vent on the manifold and that's it.

In warm walls, the highest point of the contour is the upper loop, and here the accumulation of air is most likely. So the air vent on the manifold will not give anything, but this device is placed on the upper loop, which is described in detail in the article about installation.

In warm floors, the pipe can be laid in two ways: with a snail and a snake. The snail is not suitable for warm water walls, because air plugs will not be washed out in it. The conclusion is unequivocal: only a snake!

Here, it seems, is the whole theory about, and about practice - about installation - we will talk in the section on installation.

warm water walls

In our harsh climate, simple batteries sometimes fail to perform their function. In this case, such type of heating as "warm walls" is recommended. This heat supply scheme has long won the hearts of economical residents of Western Europe, and in some cases this type of heating is indeed the most optimal and safe.

Description

A typical design of a warm wall provides for the location of the heating system pipeline inside the wall. At the same time, radiators become absolutely unnecessary.

Uniform distribution of heat in the room will increase comfort in the room, reduce its dust content and reduce the cost of heating the coolant.

Pros of using

The advantages of wall heating are as follows. Thus, heat transfer is carried out by means of radiant transmission - both people and animals feel comfortable when the temperature in the room becomes several degrees lower. Due to the optimal fuel consumption for heating in one season, it will be possible to save about 10% of energy resources.

In addition, "warm walls" reduce convective air flows in the room several times. Due to this, dust does not disperse into the air, and living conditions for those living in the house improve - this is especially important for people with chronic respiratory diseases. Finally, for the efficient operation of the "warm walls" system, it will be necessary to install circulation pumps of less power than in conventional heating systems.

Places of use

Heating installed in the walls belongs to radiant heat exchange systems, therefore it is recommended to install it in rooms with a minimum amount of furniture. The most optimal type of room for installing warm walls is as follows:

rooms with a small amount of equipment and furniture - various offices, study rooms, bedrooms, corridors;
premises in which there are no conditions for the installation of other heating systems: workshops, garages, bathrooms, swimming pools;
rooms with high humidity, in which the use of a water-heated floor is inefficient due to the high heat consumption for evaporation - swimming pools, baths, saunas, bathrooms and laundries;
any type of premises for which one type of heating is not enough.

Payment

When considering heating installed in the walls in a private house, special attention is paid to the issue of the temperature range of the external walls of the building. If the insulating layers are installed outside the house, then the freezing point of the wall will be transferred towards the insulation. Therefore, enclosing structures can be made of non-frost-resistant materials. The disadvantages of this method include an increase in energy costs - after all, heating will affect not only internal walls, but also enclosing structures.

You can place a heater from the side of the room. In this case, the freezing point will shift inward. Therefore, the walls must be insulated with frost-resistant material - otherwise they may freeze through and condensation will appear on them. The same problems arise when installing warm walls without the use of insulation.

Erroneous estimates of wall thickness and miscalculations in design can lead to significant heat losses.

In general, the built-in heating scheme in the section of the wall is as follows:

In this case, the following materials are used:

pipes with a diameter of 12-17 mm and steel clamping tires for pipes of this diameter;
screws and dowels made of stainless steel;
reinforcing or metal mesh, the cell of which has a size of about 50 mm;
plaster with cement or lime plaster in the amount necessary to cover a thickness of about 10 mm above the mesh;
- according to European energy saving requirements - 2 cm thick, thermal conductivity of 2.0 m² / kW.

Installation instructions

To mount warm walls, the surface of the walls themselves must first be carefully leveled. Before you start, you need to provide for the places where the wiring and junction boxes will be installed. The wiring itself is laid in the top layer of plaster only after the final installation of the wall pipeline.

Applying a heat insulator

A layer of heat-insulating material of a high degree of rigidity is installed on the load-bearing wall. Typically, a rigid foam insulation board with an adhesive surface is used for this purpose. Such a plate is laid on the surface of the wall from the bottom up. Then the edge insulating tape is pulled between the wall and the floor surface.

With the help of dowels and screws, the main elements for installation are fixed - steel clamping tires. They must be firmly attached to the load-bearing wall through the thickness of the heat-insulating plates. The distance between each fixed tire should be no more than 1 meter.

Piping and finishing

Now we are laying the pipeline. In this case, it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipeline section from the boiler to the wall in order to reduce heat loss. Pipe installation must be started from the floor surface with a given step.

After installation of the system, it is covered with plaster. This work should be done in two stages. The first layer is applied to the reinforcing mesh frames. When this layer hardens, a plaster mesh is attached to the wall and the final layer of plaster is applied.

If the wall is planned to be pasted over with wallpaper, then a "strobe" grid must be installed on the final layer of plaster. It is impregnated with a special dispersion that prevents the penetration of condensate and prevents the appearance of cracks on the finish layer.

The thickness of the entire plaster layer above the wall heating pipeline must not exceed 30 mm. The electrical wiring is carried out on completely dried plaster in compliance with all safety measures.

Examination

The supply of coolant to the wall pipeline is allowed only after the complete drying of the finishing plaster layer.

It should be noted that the water flow rate in such a heating system must be at least 25 m / s - at a lower speed, air locks may occur.

The control and start system must be designed to regulate either the water supply or the return flow.

When included in a project

Wall-mounted built-in heating can be taken into account in the house construction project itself. In this case, the pipeline can be poured with concrete. To do this, after the installation of the heating network, the formwork is exposed and covered with pouring.

Built-in "warm walls" can serve not only to heat the room, but also to cool it. To do this, you just need to let the chilled water through the pipeline. This type of cooling is much more preferable than the usual air conditioners - after all, the room is cooled naturally in the absence of drafts.

Water heating, closed in the wall, can be used to heat two adjacent rooms. In this case, the interior partitions should be made of heat-conducting material - brick or concrete. To do this, pipes of intra-wall heating without a heat-insulating layer are fastened in the interior walls.

Thus, the walls will heat both rooms at the same time. So compactly solve the problem of heating several rooms. And in combination with the "warm floor" system, such heating will be most effective.

Heating a room with a warm floor system has been successfully used for quite a long time. Modern projects of residential buildings involve the use of a combined system - a warm water floor and warm water walls.

Often it is used in combination, and sometimes any of them are used separately. It all depends on the wishes and preferences of the owners of residential buildings and premises.

We will try to briefly consider the advantages and disadvantages of each system, in which cases to give preference to one or another of them. As well as the technology of installation of such systems on their own.

Water heated floor: the pros and cons of arrangement and operation

Profitability - it is more profitable and more economical to heat residential premises with a warm liquid than with an electric floor heating.
Safe operation - no potential burns or electric shocks.
Long service life - more than 25 years without various kinds of repairs.
The air in the heated room is not subject to drying out, it has a comfortable humidity.
Doesn't take up usable space.
Possibility of combining with other types of heating.

Minuses:

This type of heating cannot be mounted on flights of stairs.
Difficulties in arranging in multi-apartment multi-storey buildings - the difficulty of obtaining permission to carry out construction work, as well as water hammer, which can disable the system with subsequent flooding of neighbors from below.
The cost of installation is higher than the arrangement of an electric floor heating.

Doctors warn: heated flooring does not need to be done in all areas of the house or apartment. Small particles of dust and dirt can rise up along with warm air and provoke allergic reactions.

Water warm walls

The walls are heated by liquid in the same way as the floor. In other words, a water-heated floor is installed in the wall. All the positive qualities inherent in the floor are also characteristic of the walls. But warm water walls also have inherent advantages.

Walls, unlike floors that heat the room with a heated concrete screed, heat the space with heat rays (radiant heating method). With this method of heat exchange, a temperature of 18°C - 20°C is considered comfortable. With radiator or floor heating - 22°C. A little savings in person.
The plaster layer on the wall is much thinner than the concrete floor screed, so heat is released more quickly and more efficiently.
The movement of air currents is almost minimal, which does not contribute to the excessive movement of dust and protects our health.
The possibility of using less powerful and therefore cheaper pumps, in contrast to pumps for water floor heating.
The pipe can be laid relatively arbitrarily, the laying step does not matter much. Recommended: up to a height of 120 cm - the pipe is laid every 15 cm, from 120 to 180 cm - after 25 cm, if there is a desire to raise it higher - after 35-40 cm.
Important! Since, with this method of heating, radiant heat transfer predominates, it is not necessary to place high furniture on these walls.
If heating is made in the wall separating two rooms, then both of them will be heated.
The ability to use not only for heating, but also for cooling, instead of air conditioners constantly blowing into the back of the head.

The disadvantages include, again, the impossibility of arranging in high-rise buildings and the relatively high cost, though just below the warm floor.

At first glance, you might think that warm water walls are better than a warm water floor. But it is not so. In the bathroom, it is more preferable to make a warm floor. It will dry the air from the surface itself.

When equipping the kitchen, you need to make both the floor and the walls watery. In summer, air conditioning will not be needed, and in spring and winter, comfort will be created by a warm floor.

What to give preference to in living rooms is up to you. But as a piece of advice, we suggest heating them with walls, and laying carpet on the floor or insulating it in other ways.