Service life of parquet. Scraping parquet

What is the structure of the parquet board, what is this coating?

The structure of the parquet board is as follows: the top layer is made of precious wood, the middle layer is more often made of pine or spruce, the bottom layer is veneer. It is much easier to produce a massive board than a parquet one. It is usually thought that such a structure is associated with the economy of the upper (expensive) layer. In fact, the main reason is that this construction is more stable than solid board, due to the different direction of the wood grains in the top and middle layers. Along the fibers, the temperature coefficient of expansion of wood is much higher than across, and the middle layer, the fibers of which are located perpendicular to the fibers of the top one, stabilizes the entire structure. It is important to observe the ratio of the thickness of the layers and the correct humidity of each of them.

What is the average life of a parquet board and how can it be extended? How many grindings can this material withstand?

The number of possible polishings depends on the professionalism of the parquet master. The equipment is constantly being improved, so seven, and sometimes even nine polishings can be done. This operation is carried out when the varnish has worn off and needs to be updated or in order to hide a scratch. In the latter case, the depth of damage should be taken into account - it depends on how thick the top layer will be removed. The maximum depth of a scratch that can be restored depends on the thickness of the upper, valuable layer of wood. On average, it is 3-4 mm, respectively, it will be possible to restore a scratch with a depth of 2 mm.

The service life of a parquet board depends on the installation method. With the floating method (without gluing to the base), the service life is 10-15 years. When gluing a parquet board to a plywood base, it is possible to carry out two repair grindings, followed by coating with a protective compound, therefore, the service life with this laying method will be 30-45 years.

The service life of a parquet board is much less than that of solid or block parquet. On average, about 7 years, however, much depends on the operating conditions of the flooring. With careful handling, the use of special products for the care of wooden floors, protection of the floor from damage (special pads on the legs of chairs, etc.), a parquet board can look great for much longer. It is not profitable to grind a cheap parquet board. The total cost of sanding is quite high relative to the cost of this flooring, so it often makes sense to change the boring flooring for another, more up-to-date in color or design.

Is the parquet board subject to local repair?

If it's a deep scratch, then I don't recommend sanding the floor and re-varnishing it. There are many means for restoration: putty on wood, a wax pencil, which is melted, applied, and then the excess is carefully cut off with a spatula and polished with a cloth.

There are small bottles of varnish that can be used to restore minor localized damage to the parquet board.

Is it possible to replace one parquet board module?

If one board needs to be replaced, it is important how the parquet is laid - floating or glued to the base. In the first case, you can disassemble the structure, remove the damaged board and put the next one in this place, and put the new one at the very end. This is due to the fact that the tree can fade, change color, but if the color of the new board is identical to the tone of the existing coating, then it can also be put in place of the damaged one. It is possible to disassemble the parquet laid in a floating way without problems 2-3 times, this will not affect the density of the lock in any way.

And if there is furniture on the coating that you don’t want to disassemble, or the board is glued, then one element can be replaced as follows. A wide cut is made in the middle of the board, then V-shaped cuts are made from it to the end of the board, the resulting corners are taken out, and then the sides. The question arises: how to put the board in this place? An easy way: cut the lock in the place where the spike protrudes and lay the board on the glue. In order not to damage the varnish on the adjacent board during installation, the corner can be filed obliquely. Parquet masters can easily cope with this task.

It is not worth counting on the fact that after some time the floor from the parquet board, laid in a floating way, can be partially disassembled, the damaged elements replaced and laid again. During disassembly, chips are formed along the end cut on 50% of the boards, new boards can vary greatly in color, a new locking joint will be difficult to snap due to a small ledge. In addition, as a rule, the remains of the board after the initial laying are thrown away or stored in improper conditions, and by the time of restoration they become unusable.

If there is wear on the parquet, what should I do?

Depends on what kind of coating is used. On parquet under natural oil, apply a little oil and immediately wipe off its excess from the floor surface. Such repairs may be local. If the coating is varnished, then there are two options: scraping the entire surface, and not just the damaged area and varnishing again, or buy new boards and replace the damaged ones with them. The special varnish in the bottle can only be used to restore small scratches. In general, scratches do not always spoil the appearance of the floor - sometimes they even give it a certain charm and originality, especially if the floor is in vintage style.

How to care for parquet under different coatings - lacquer, oil, wax?

Wet cleaning should be such that a minute after it the floor is dry, because the main enemy of parquet is water. If the parquet is heavily moistened, the boards at the ends will turn black. If the parquet is varnished, then you can live with such a coating for 7-10 years without doing anything. When the time comes to renew the varnish, the floor should be sanded, removing the old layer of varnish. This is a rather time-consuming work, which, as a rule, is carried out by professionals.

The oil coating wears off over time, and then it also needs to be renewed. Anyone can deal with this. First you need to clean the floor with a vacuum cleaner, apply oil spray on the floor surface and walk with a rag. The main thing is not to apply too much oil. The frequency of such care depends on the intensity of use, usually at home it is enough to carry it out 2 times in the first year, then repeat once a year. All scratches, abrasions are hidden under a new layer of oil.

Can the consumer himself determine the type of parquet coating - varnish, wax, oil?

The varnished parquet board is visually noticeably different from the parquet coating under the oil base. The wooden floor under oil does not have a lacquer gloss, it is more matte. Oil emphasizes the texture of wood, its pattern.

What are the advantages of piece parquet in comparison with a parquet board? Does it have any disadvantages?

The advantage is in the variability of laying, in the ability to make a more complex pattern, use friezes, borders, rosettes, decorative inserts, etc. Moreover, parquet is made from a massive piece of wood, and such material makes it possible to apply a more reliable protective coating, which significantly increases material service life. The disadvantage is the need to produce a more complex base and an increase in the time required to complete the work. The process of manufacturing a parquet floor is long and laborious. Parquet also implies the need for strict adherence to microclimatic parameters.

On piece parquet, you can do much more polishing, sanding, but it is much less resistant to moisture changes. The appearance of cracks, creaks, crunch in the parquet is more likely than in the parquet board. In addition, mostly untreated piece parquet, not varnished, is sold. And the quality of applying varnish at home is much lower than in the factory.

A square meter of piece parquet costs less than a square meter of parquet board, but taking into account good parquet work, piece parquet will be more expensive.

Piece parquet is always glued to the subfloor - such work is much more expensive. It should be borne in mind that in this case each plate will move separately from the others, because of this there is a possibility of gaps between them. And the three-layer structure of the parquet board, laid in a floating way, is a single whole. The movement is visible only under the plinth, where a temperature gap is left. If you stick a parquet board, then each plate will move individually, regardless of its neighbors, but it is still 75% more stable, the gaps will be minimal and almost imperceptible.

What are the features of solid board? Is it true that this material is quite difficult to install?

A massive board is, in essence, a large-sized parquet. The accuracy of its geometry due to its significant size is lower than that of parquet (this is fixed by GOST 8242-88). When assembling, it is necessary to apply maximum skill in order to lay the board without cracks and evenly. To do this, as a rule, a massive board is calibrated before laying, selected by color and laid dry, and only then glued to a plywood base. Usually the board already has a factory coating. If a massive board is uncoated and has a chamfer on the end, then after laying it can only be coated with film protective compounds (oil or oil-wax), it cannot be varnished if there is a chamfer. Slots on the board with a chamfer do not putty. In the chamfer area, over time, the varnish begins to flake off; partially, when applied, it flows into the gap between the boards and glues the boards along the ends. When the parquet dries out during the heating period, such cracks open unevenly with a detachment of burrs. The main advantages of a massive board are its durability and aesthetics, a clear demonstration of the natural texture of wood.

The disadvantages of the array, like parquet, include the need for stricter compliance with the microclimate, but, unlike parquet, solid board has limited laying methods.

First of all, it all depends on the board itself. If the solid board is of good quality, then laying it for a professional is easy. And if a massive board is made of oak, and it is curved, then it is very difficult, for example, when laying, to achieve a satisfactory result. Often people think that a massive board with a top layer of 7 mm can be scraped many times. Yes it is. But in the case of a parquet board, two boards located side by side lie tightly over the entire top layer (3.5 mm). And the upper part of the massive board is profiled slightly at an angle according to European standards, that is, everything is perfect during the initial laying, and after grinding, a gap opens.

Let's imagine that the parquet was varnished, but after that it was decided to change the color of the flooring, for example, to make it a little darker. Is there any way to tint the lacquer?

Tinted varnish is not quite right. Due to the inevitable different thickness of the varnish layer, when applied at home, the floor will turn out to be uneven in color (striped). Additional factors that do not allow tinting varnish at home are differences in application technologies and formulations. Professional on-site wood floor tints are oil-based and are applied by rubbing onto a perfectly polished surface. The tint is then protected with layers of lacquer or oil-wax compatible with the tint. It is more correct to use tinting and protective compounds from the same manufacturer, strictly observing the technology for applying a combined protective coating.

If the parquet floor was covered with an oil composition, can you later, when the protective layer needs to be updated, use varnish instead of oil? If yes, how to remove the oil impregnation residues?

If it becomes necessary to change the oil composition of the coating to varnish when restoring the protective layer, a number of nuances should be taken into account. First, oil is removed from the floor surface by grinding. Secondly, if the gaps between the slats are large, then, unfortunately, it is impossible to remove oil from them. In this case, water-based varnishes cannot be used as a primer layer. A combined solvent-based primer coat (two or three coats) should be applied, and only then a water-based varnish. Or use the so-called polyurethane-based DD varnishes without restrictions.

To cover the surface of the board with varnish, you need to carefully sand the floor covering. However, the multi-layer construction of the parquet board is not intended for the use of a grinder, and the possible manual scraping of the board is a very expensive pleasure, so it makes sense to change the entire floor covering to the varnished version of the parquet you like.

Can parquet, parquet or floorboards be laid over a tiled floor?

Whether it is tile or concrete, there is no difference, so wood can be laid on the tile without any problems. The only thing to consider is that the substrate will add 2-3 mm, the parquet - about 14 mm more, that is, the floor will turn out to be almost 2 cm higher, and the transition to the corridor or to another room will be with a step.

In the case of parquet and solid board coverings, plywood sheets are laid on top of the screed or joists. What is it for?

Plywood is laid on a screed or on logs in order to correctly assemble the main parquet flooring (parquet board, solid wood). The plywood sheets form a base that ensures the stability of the laid parquet board. Plywood has never been a leveling agent.

Can cracks appear on a floor finished with a parquet board and how to solve this problem?

Slots will be required if you stick the coating on the subfloor. When it is dry, the size of the board becomes smaller, when it is wet, it becomes larger. And each board individually changes its size. But this change is so small that it is almost imperceptible. When laying in a floating way, gaps appear due to the fact that the whole coating cannot move freely if a temperature gap is forgotten somewhere. For example, there will be a gap near a door or heavy furniture.

The design of the parquet board with mechanical locks is such that the appearance of cracks with proper installation cannot be. If the parquet board is glued, that is, it is laid according to the “thorn-groove” system, without the use of tie-down straps, when cracks appear, it will be necessary to locally disassemble the parquet board and lay it again.

There is an opinion that friction occurs between the floor and the baseboard, accompanied by a creak. Therefore, it is sometimes recommended to raise the baseboard or coat the contact point with silicone sealant.

Silicone and varnish coating of almost all manufacturers are incompatible.

Usually the floor is pressed closely with the skirting board. Moreover, our company recommends doing this within 48 hours after laying, because there is a possibility that the board will begin to bend.

The main reason for the appearance of a creak is an uneven base. In this case, the floor begins to walk, which is accompanied by friction. An even base will eliminate this process.

Between the baseboard and the floor, you can make self-adhesive gaskets, reminiscent of window seals.

Is it possible to lay a wooden floor in a country house where they do not live permanently in winter?

Any wooden furniture, solid wood flooring and hardwood flooring will certainly suffer if the right temperature and appropriate humidity level are not maintained in the house. Parquet floors will not survive even one season, they will deform, crack, laminated parquet will pick up excess moisture and may swell. It is also harmful to turn on the heating abruptly (jumping) after arriving at a country house - this will lead to deformation of the parquet flooring.

What is natural linoleum (marmoleum)?

Marmoleum is an all-natural product that contains jute, wood flour, linseed oil and color pigments. The advantages of marmoleum are that it recovers well, bacteria do not multiply on it, it has a light fastness index of eight units out of eight possible. Marmoleum, unlike some other types of coating, does not fade. The choice of design is huge: approximately 170 colors, including options for wood, with a marble structure. Marmoleum is about 15-20% more expensive than synthetic linoleum.

How durable is marmoleum?

Officially, Forbo gives a 15-year warranty on marmoleum even for commercial use. During this time, with proper styling, nothing will happen to it: it will retain its color, it will not swell. But even after 15 years, marmoleum will not deteriorate. Let me give you an example: in the Netherlands there is a hospital with an area of 300,000 m2, 240,000 m2 of which is covered with marmoleum. He's been there for 28 years. Note that this is a very high traffic area.

I want to note that marmoleum served for a long time, before laying it is very important to properly prepare the base. It should be even (with differences of no more than 2 mm) and always dry. In those places where the drops are greater, the marmoleum may deform after a while and then crack.

How is this material installed?

The work must be carried out by qualified installers. The material is glued. The canvases are connected to each other by hot welding, that is, they are boiled with cords. You can put them joint to joint. Under each color of marmoleum there is a corresponding color of the cord. There are single color and multicolor cords. If you need to highlight some areas, make a pattern with noticeable seams, use a monochromatic one so that the seams are invisible - multicolor. Marmoleum roll width - 2 m, length - 32 m.

Is it acceptable to lay new linoleum on top of the old one?

Will dents be left on marmoleum when heavy objects are dropped?

The material is repairable. In case of damage to the coating, you can always call our technical consultant and he will advise what to do. To repair damage to the coating, take a piece of marmoleum of the same color, rub it on a regular grater, mix it with PVA glue and apply it to damaged areas. It turns out that you fill the place of damage with a mixture of marmoleum. Then lightly sand with fine grit sandpaper. Another way to repair: in case of a deep cut, you can take the cord and boil this place. If a lit cigarette falls on the floor and rots there, a yellow stain may appear on the marmoleum, which can be easily wiped off with a damp soft cloth.

Parquet is a floor covering with a three-layer structure. The parquet board is durable, so parquet is a practical floor covering that can last for decades. Manufacturers usually claim a 20-40 year lifespan. We will try to find out how long parquet can really last and what reasons increase / shorten this period.

Factors determining the service life of parquet

The lifespan of a parquet board depends on a number of additional factors, including:

Price. The price of a parquet depends on the material from which the parquet is made. The bottom two layers are usually pine or spruce. The top layer, which is affected by most negative factors, is made from harder species - beech, oak, alder. On average, its thickness is 3.5-3.9 mm. If the indicator is lower, it means that in the upper layer there is a parquet board of soft breeds (for example, birch) with a shorter service life.

Care. The lack of regular cosmetic repairs leads to wear of the parquet board after 5 years. Redecoration here means updating the varnish / oil layer, polishing, which is necessary every 2-3 years.

Compliance with the humidity regime. The optimal humidity in the house where the parquet is located is 55%. The temperature in the room can vary up to 24 degrees. In order to achieve 55% humidity in an apartment or house, owners should purchase a special device - a humidifier. Wet cleaning in a room covered with parquet should be carried out with a barely damp cloth. In order for the moisture to dry as quickly as possible, the room must be well ventilated.

Laying. Before laying the parquet, it is necessary to pre-treat the old floor - remove the old logs, fill in the voids. The master should also take a very responsible approach to the choice of glue. Since a primer is a prerequisite before applying the adhesive, there must be a primer in the adhesive. If not, the specialist should additionally prime.

How to extend the service life?

Laying the floor in an apartment or house is a very costly business that requires significant financial costs. In order not to change the flooring every 4-5 years, the owner should not save on its cost. Despite the fact that the price of parquet is slightly higher than other types of coating, it will last at least 10-20 years. In order to extend the service life declared by the manufacturer, the customer should follow the following rules:

Taking into account the criterion of the load on the pavement. In rooms and halls with high traffic, it is necessary to lay hardwood parquet - oak, hornbeam, beech. Birch, cherry or maple is suitable for a bedroom, personal office or a low-traffic area.

Respect for flooring. This is the key to its longevity. In order to prevent the occurrence of dents, the owner must avoid sharp stiletto heels, moving furniture with legs on the floor. Microcracks are the result of falling sharp objects. In case of deterioration of the coating, a major overhaul should be carried out, including grinding, scraping, varnishing. Sanding and sanding are two very similar procedures for smoothing out roughness, unevenness and returning the flooring to its previous appearance. Sand and dust should be in contact with the surface to a minimum, otherwise scratches cannot be avoided.

Compliance with all the above tips from our experts ensures a long service life of parquet without the need to replace it for 20-40 years.

HOW TO CHOOSE A FLOOR COVERING

Floor covering for an apartment is like shoes in a person's wardrobe! This is the opinion of designers who claim that an unsuccessfully chosen floor covering from the point of view of aesthetics will completely spoil the overall impression of even the most respectable house in all other respects.
However, flooring isn't just for beauty. It has the most important functional purpose. Therefore, a big mistake with very unpleasant consequences for those living in a dwelling would be to select flooring only for “taste and color”.

KING OF FLOORING: PARQUET

Let's start with parquet. Which in design publications is called the "king of flooring." Pretentious, but unfounded.
But what is a good parquet? And how to choose parquet?
Parquet floors are made from massive pieces of wood. A good and high-quality parquet (with careful operation!) lasts for decades. In case of inevitable damage, it is restored - the parquet can be scraped and sanded many times. Apply polish and it's like new!
Block parquet is cheaper than parquet board. But this cheapness is deceptive, since one must take into account the high cost of its high-quality installation, which implies the presence of a subfloor. Also add the cost of varnishing the parquet, which is rather difficult at home and requires qualification from the parquet master.
Good parquet has always been a sign of respectability. They joked about the “Kremlin” (a medical center where Kremlin celestials were observed and treated in Soviet times): the doctors were profiled, the floors were parquet! And “parquet floors” in this context meant that since the floors are parquet, then everything else is at the highest, “parquet” level!
However, until the mid-60s, parquet (though not the best in quality) used to be laid in the houses of the most ordinary, in today's language, democratic series. Even in "Khrushchev"! And although the parquet was by no means cheap even then, not all the new settlers were very happy with the generous gift of the builders.
These were the times of mass construction and the great migration of citizens from "communal apartments" to separate "apartments" and rural residents to cities. Accustomed in their former life to wash floors with abundant use of water, the new settlers did not see great advantages in such a capricious floor covering as parquet. Recommendations to “use a vacuum cleaner” were divorced from real life: firstly, vacuum cleaners, however, like all other more or less in demand goods, were in short supply, and most importantly, household appliances were simply too expensive for the vast majority of the population.
In addition, parquet (good parquet!) requires a very careful attitude. And constant and thorough care: after a couple of years it had to be cycled, scraping off emerging pollution. And, manually, cycles. There were no household electric scraping machines at all. Hiring a person with a professional scraping machine was too expensive for most people. Then the scraped floor had to be covered with mastic (which had to be systematically spent on!) and suffered for a long time, rubbing the floors to a “parquet shine”. "To the foot": with the help of a brush that was worn on the leg. Since not everyone could do it, even such a profession was common - a floor polisher! But with the advent of the "miracle of technology" - electric floor polishers, and then parquet varnish that did not need to be polished, the need for a professional floor polisher began to die off rapidly. Today, only the character of actor Vladimir Basov from the cult film "I'm walking around Moscow" reminds of the specialty of a floor polisher.
But the problems of happy owners of parquet floors were not limited to burdensome parquet care. The ruin for the family was the collapsed repair of the parquet floor after it was flooded with water. And in those years, when many people were just starting to get used to the bath in the apartment, “floods” happened quite often. In a few months, a puppy that appeared in the apartment, not yet accustomed to asking to go for a walk on the street, could rear up the parquet. And the parquet itself could “go” for no reason at all: few people understood that the cause of the deformation of the parquet floor was the swelling of the tree from high humidity and, on the contrary, its shrinkage, leading to shrinkage deformation of the parquet, with a decrease in humidity.
Due to inexperience, the residents tried to nail the parquet flooring “in place” that was starting to “walk”, which, of course, ended in nothing, except for the plaster crumbling from the ceiling of the neighbors below.
Few people understood that the reason for the deformation of the parquet floor is temperature and humidity changes in the room.
So even if no natural disasters happened, then in any case, after a few years, wooden parquets began to “walk”, jump out, and it was still impossible to do without laborious, troublesome and ruinous repairs ...
Today, climate equipment allows you to consistently maintain ideal conditions for the longevity of parquet, which are: temperature 18-24°C and humidity 40-60%. This mode is achieved in summer with the help of air conditioners with the function of reducing humidity, and in winter - with the help of air humidifiers.

LINOLEUM.

SYNTHETIC AND NATURAL

Be that as it may, but when, in the second half of the 60s, new settlers began to discover not parquet, but linoleum in their new apartments, this did not cause any particular protests and disappointments. Many only welcomed the linoleum that appeared then - a fairly cheap material, it is easy to clean, there are no special problems with laying and replacing in case of repair.
However, as people's living standards rise, so do claims. Today, few people can be satisfied with an unpresentable, quickly fading and, most importantly, non-environmental (!) Synthetic linoleum.
True, there is now natural linoleum for demanding tastes. As part of marmoleum (the so-called natural linoleum) jute and linseed oil. This coating is durable - manufacturers give guarantees for it up to 15 years, and this is when it is used commercially, for example, in offices and public institutions with a high operational load. The advantage of marmoleum is its maintainability.
However, in order for the marmoleum to serve for a long time and truly, you need to take care of its qualified flooring. The base must be level and dry. The coating is glued to the base, connecting the sheets by hot welding. People often ask, is it possible to put marmoleum on top of the old linoleum? It is possible, but not necessary. Manufacturers allow this technology, but do not recommend it. If you dare, then keep in mind that the old linoleum must be thoroughly washed, all damage must be puttied.

AND AGAIN ABOUT PARQUET

But back to the king of flooring. When synthetic linoleum appeared (and this was a period of condemnation of the "architectural excesses" of the past era and the triumph of everyday rationalism, bordering on asceticism), it seemed that the pompous, lordly parquet was forever gone. But this turned out not to be the case.
The second birth of parquet was in our time. Today, the fashion in the flooring market is again dictated by the good old natural wood parquet!
Parquet is beautiful, even solemn, durable, has low thermal conductivity and sound transmission. Almost everyone dreams of such parquet today! And dreams come true, if, of course, they are supported by sufficient material resources.

What is a GOOD PARQUET?

The question is not rhetorical at all! Once upon a time, parquet was exclusively of one type: block parquet. Standard parquet flooring is a plank in which a recess is made on one side (along the length), and a ledge on the other. The crest of one parquet plank is inserted into the groove of another, and so on. This is how individual piece parquet floors are combined into a whole floor covering!
Today, piece parquet is not the only type of this flooring. There are parquet boards, parquet boards. There is a laminated parquet (laminate). We will discuss the features of these floor coverings below. First, about what qualities and features a good piece parquet has.

STICK PARQUET

Oak, ash, beech, maple, elm, hornbeam, pine, larch, birch… In addition, merbau (mahogany), bamboo, ebony, walnut, boxwood… And this is not all the types of parquet available on the market…
How to figure out which parquet is better and why? To answer this question, you must first define the quality criteria. And then it will be possible to figure out which parquet meets the criteria to a greater extent. And what is it, a good parquet?
Seven out of ten consumers name the main quality of parquet as its STRENGTH. This is understandable, who needs a floor covering that can be damaged by inadvertently dropping, say, a hammer from your hands? If you are not lucky, you can also buy a much more vulnerable parquet: this one can be spoiled by the heels of ladies' shoes and even the legs of chairs. Or by pressing a dropped carnation into the floor with your foot.
A more durable parquet will last longer and for the reason that during grinding and sanding, it works less and does not thin out so quickly.
Oak parquet (oak parquet) is considered the strength standard. Not because the most-most in terms of strength. Its exclusive advantage is the OPTIMAL durability. The fact is that you can find harder woods, but their fine processing is extremely difficult. And for parquet, almost jeweler's accuracy is needed: insufficient coincidence due to a violation of the geometry of the dimensions of the planks, as well as grooves and ridges, turns into the fact that the parquets do not fit together well. And it becomes impossible to qualitatively fit low-quality parquet (without the formation of cracks and humps). More precisely, it is possible, but with the involvement of not “at least some”, but a highly professional (and therefore highly paid!) parquet floor. And the services of such a master with large volumes of work can be more expensive than purchasing high-quality, absolutely standard parquet!
Ash and maple parquet is characterized by good durability.
Softwoods include birch, beech, cherry. Their advantage is a good quality of processing, which ensures the trouble-free entry of the ridges of one parquet into the grooves of another. But not only. Many are attracted by the aesthetics of the parquet of these types of wood.
Beech parquet is valued for its original, "mosaic" pattern. Birch parquet wins the sympathy of consumers with a kind of mother-of-pearl shade.
However, the problem is that beech, greedily absorbing moisture from the air, swells, and this leads to a destructive “movement” of the entire masonry. To prevent this from happening, beech parquet must be pre-treated with a water-repellent agent. If you don't want to mess around, buy parquet from those types of wood that can keep the humidity level in the range from 6 to 12%. There are many.
These days, the excessive softness of birch and beech should not bother you much. Modern technologies have made this congenital "defect" correctable: the necessary strength to the tree is given by its "smoking" as a result of heat treatment. But additionally hardened, so-called smoky (it looks so impressive) parquet, of course, will cost the buyer more than usual.
So, what requirements should a good parquet meet?
High-quality parquets should:
fit easily and tightly
when connecting, do not form gaps or humps
not have chips, flakes, cracks, unplanned areas
be clean: no signs of rot, fungal blue, colored spots, wormholes, resin.
Many buyers are concerned about knot detection. Calm down: the presence of knots is acceptable. Even on the “face” of parquet, but they should not be larger than 5 mm in size.
As you can see, it is possible to evaluate the quality of the purchased parquet right in the store. Moreover, for this it is not at all necessary to sort out the entire parquet. Experts say that the quality of the entire package can be judged with sufficient certainty by a sample of three parquet floors.
The shelf life of the parquet laid on the mastic coincides with the life of the mastic itself: the parquet begins to “walk” and move away from the floor in a period of 10 to 20 years, as soon as the mastic stops holding it. Oblige the parquet floorer to use waterless mastic. Water - cheaper, but the risk that the parquet will "lead" is much greater.
There are laying technologies that ensure the service life of parquet up to 30 years!

PARQUET BOARD

The parquet board is made from processed wood. Natural wood floor! The natural origin of this material, which determines its environmental friendliness, is valued more and more every year. At the same time, it is characterized by greater strength and greater resistance to temperature extremes and moisture in comparison with piece parquet. Hence, there is less likelihood of the imminent appearance of cracks, the occurrence of creaking and crunching. Let's add to this manufacturability, which simplifies the process of flooring as much as possible and, thereby, makes it possible to lay it independently (if you have the appropriate skills) without involving highly paid hired forces for this. But this is if, as they say, hands are not for boredom!
Among the listed "pluses" it is also worth adding that the surface of the parquet board is protected from birth by the manufacturer with a varnish coating or oil-wax treatment, so there is less of one more problem.
What is a parquet board?
The parquet board represents multilayered rectangular levels. The structure of a parquet board can be imagined as follows: its upper working layer is made of precious wood species and protected with a varnish or oil coating.
The middle stabilizing layer is made of softwood slats, usually pine or spruce. About how the stabilizing effect is achieved, just below.
In the lower layer - softwood veneer (thin sheets with a thickness of 0.1 to 10 mm).
In the middle layer, the connection of the parquet board with adjacent elements of the coating is cut: traditional - tongue and groove (thorn and groove method) and modern - locking, which provides fast and accurate assembly.
It is widely believed that a "sandwich" of more and less valuable species has one goal - to reduce the cost of parquet boards. This is not true. In terms of structural stability, such a multilayer structure even outperforms a massive board. The focus is on the stabilizing effect, which is achieved by the fact that the direction of the wood fibers in the middle (stabilizing) layer of the parquet "sandwich" is transverse to its upper and lower "floors". Since the tree expands 10 times more across the fibers than along, with such laying, each layer neutralizes the movement of the adjacent one. This technology achieves the limitation of the natural movement of the tree when the parameters of temperature and humidity change. This gives grounds to speak about the greater resistance of the parquet board to changes in temperature and moisture in comparison with piece parquet.

LIFE TIME

Be prepared for the fact that the parquet board will last much less than solid or block parquet. On average, the service life is from 5 to 10 years.
If you want the parquet to last longer, you will have to choose, guided not only by considerations of aesthetics and design. It is worth asking about the hardness of the material that went to make the top layer of the coating. Strictly speaking, the resistance of the rock to external load. If the "sandwich" is headed by a cherry, then its age is not long. Another thing - oak! Information about this quality of various types of wood can be gleaned from the table of hardness of materials according to the Brinell test.
To a large extent, the life of a parquet board depends on the way it is laid. There are two ways to install this wood flooring: floating and adhesive.

LET YOURSELF SWIMS!

The floating method of laying parquet boards is simpler, since it does not involve rigid fastening of the planks to the base and walls. Accordingly, the work is cheaper. Plus, such a floor covering is put into operation immediately after laying - there is no need to wait for the glue to set (as with the adhesive method). Put a cover, and at least dance, at least install furniture.
But it is necessary to dance and install furniture with the awareness that the parquet board is extremely sensitive to mechanical influences. Therefore, it is very important that the floor covering in the form of a parquet board laid in a floating way is maintainable: it can always be partially dismantled to replace damaged fragments and reassembled. Which, alas, is impossible with the adhesive method of laying.
As we said above, a parquet board, in comparison with piece parquet, is characterized by greater resistance to temperature extremes and moisture. This is true. However, it is impossible to completely exclude the expansion or contraction of the material with changes in temperature and humidity: a tree is a tree. Therefore, we recommend, firstly, to ensure that the installers leave an expansion gap between the coating and the wall “for bad weather”. And secondly, if you have already decided to lay a parquet board, it makes sense to make sure that an acceptable microclimate is provided in the house.
True, there are manufacturers who give a guarantee for wooden flooring, without imposing on the operator the obligation to maintain the temperature and humidity of strictly defined parameters in the room. Sellers recommend this material for laying in seasonal country houses.

ON GLUE!

With the adhesive method, the parquet board can be fixed both on plywood and non-concrete bases. Laying takes longer. You'll have to wait for the glue to securely grab. And laying a parquet board in this way will cost much more. But it's worth it. The parquet board, laid with glue, reacts less painfully to changes in temperature and humidity, and lasts much longer. If the upper working layer of the parquet board you have chosen is of sufficient thickness, then you can always restore it, like piece parquet, by sanding (but without sanding!) and re-coat with varnish or oil.
However, if you want to play it safe and leave yourself a chance, if something happens, to replace one or another board, then the floating method of laying the coating has no alternative for you. When glued, the board becomes unrepairable.

LAC? MAYBE BETTER OIL?!

The varnish is undesirable for rooms with high humidity, which can cause accelerated cracking and peeling of the protective coating of the coating. Due to the “fear” of temperature, it is not worth using a varnished parquet board for flooring on heated floors.
The advantage of varnish is its high wear resistance. Therefore, it is recommended for the protection of flooring in rooms with high traffic. They say about such places in everyday life: a passage yard! And, of course, it makes sense to pay attention to varnished materials for those who are not very ready to systematically bother themselves with the subsequent care of the floor.
And vice versa: where varnish is not suitable - that is, in rooms with high humidity and for floor heating - an oil coating has proven itself well for protecting the flooring from dirt and damage.
In many ways, how long the coating will live depends on the culture of its operation. For example, special care products extend the life of the floor covering, as well as pads on the legs of chairs. Finally, just a thrifty attitude! The enemy of wood is water. Keep this in mind when wet cleaning, wiping the floor dry. And we repeat, if you are not ready to devote a lot of time and effort to caring for the floor, then it is wiser to give preference to materials coated with wear-resistant varnish.
When buying a parquet board, be sure to find out what quality the parquet is: it can be not only from solid wood (solid wood), but also from wood shavings. Such a parquet board will last, of course, much less.
Make sure that the coating is well protected by the manufacturer from damage. This is achieved by applying a few words of high-strength varnish with a hardener. Not even every “leader of the Redskins” picks such a floor. But if that one succeeds, then you will face the problem of replacing the board. Unlike piece parquet, a parquet board cannot be scraped due to a thin useful layer. This, of course, is a minus.

IN REPAIR!

However, the seller, to your concern about the maintainability of the parquet board, can answer by saying that although it really does not cycle, it is, they say, polished. It really is. But you must understand that in order to do this, you first have to clean the board from heavy-duty varnish to wood, sand it, and then re-apply the required number of layers of protective and decorative varnish. At the same time, do not overestimate your own capabilities: grinding requires not only a special tool, but also skills that, unlike a tool, you will not acquire by chance.
Therefore, it is reasonable to shift this work to the shoulders of a professional. With good equipment and good professional training of the performer, the operation of grinding a parquet board during its life cycle can be repeated up to seven times. And don't let this number of possible sandings seem excessive to you, since sanding will be required without damaging the flooring - when the varnish is erased from it and you decide to update the gloss.
If the damage is insignificant, then it can be eliminated without any special problems with varnish intended for restoration purposes. Another thing is deep scratches, they may, depending on the degree of damage, be beyond restoration. Since the thickness of the top layer to be restored is usually 3-4 mm, the damage to be removed may not be deeper than 2 mm. What to do with a more serious injury to the parquet plank coating ?! Here you can try to get out of the situation by using such simple restoration tools as putty, wax pencils, etc. for camouflage.

PARQUET, BUT… LAMINATED

Laminated parquet is also made in the form of a "sandwich". The “golden mean” of each of its strips is a fiberboard, the density of which (800-1100 kg / m 3) determines the index of coating stability.
On top of this carrier board, which serves as the basis of parquet, a decorative layer of special paper is applied, which protects against dirt, moisture and mechanical damage, a laminated film of acrylic or melamine resin. A stabilizing layer of kraft paper is placed under the base plate. There are samples, in the base of which a soundproofing substrate is also laid.
Unlike parquet boards, laminated parquet is not natural wood, but a product of wood processing. artificial material. There are those who are alarmed by its non-environmental friendliness. However, at the same time, the laminate successfully copes with its functional purpose. Good wear resistance. Easy to install. Not demanding in care. Service life up to 5 years. Much cheaper than the natural prototype. Many consumers are quite satisfied with such parquet.
When choosing a laminate, one must proceed from the expected load on the floor, which is predetermined by the purpose of the room. It makes sense to find out the wear resistance class of the floor covering, what is its thickness, what type of substrate is it and how the panels are connected to each other.
Laminate class, which determines its wear resistance, is determined by the results of testing the material for resistance to abrasives, resistance to crushing and pressure, impact resistance, resistance to cracks, scratches, stains, etc.
The class is indicated by two numbers.
The first - indicates the type of room for which it is intended:
"2" - residential premises, "3" - public, "4" - industrial purposes.
The second digit (from "1" to "4") - indicates the permissible intensity of exposure to the material.
Laminate thickness varies from 6 to 12 mm. The thicker the laminate, the stronger it is. The better its sound-absorbing properties. And the easier it is to install.

Types of connection of laminate panels

Adhesive laminate. When gluing the panels between them, there are no gaps, which provides better moisture resistance of such a laminate in comparison with the castle one. The disadvantage is that gluing the panels together makes the coating unrepairable.
Panels lock laminate are interconnected by means of a connecting lock embedded in them. Since the elements are not fastened “tightly”, such a laminate can always be repaired.
There are two types of locks: latches (lock) and collapsible (click).
The first (lock-locks) require a perfectly flat base under the laminate.
In the absence of such (but with a curvature of the base of not more than 3 mm per linear meter), you can use a laminate with click-locks.
Substrate type. When laying laminate, you must not forget about the substrate - a special material that isolates the laminate from the floor, acting as a shock absorber and providing sound and heat insulation. The substrate for the laminate is made of cork, polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam, wood fibers, etc.

The floor, made of piece parquet, has always symbolized the wealth and high social status of the owner of the apartment. Parquet flooring is not only environmentally friendly to humans, but also has excellent aesthetic properties.

With the help of dice from different types of wood on the floor, you can create patterns and ornaments that will become an independent decor item.
Parquet floor can last 50-70 years.

Of course, such "long-livers" among parquet flooring are found only when properly selected.

Method for drying wood. The service life of parquet is extended if the most gentle drying methods are used, for example, vacuum;
The method of sawing wood;
Precise observance of physical dimensions: the depth of the groove and the thickness of the ridge.
As for the type of wood, the oak parquet has the longest period of use. Planks made from softer woods will last less.

Laying and caring for parquet are the two main factors that prolong the life of parquet.

Thorough observance of the parquet laying technology cannot but affect the quality of the floor covering and its useful life.

The accuracy of the floor geometry, achieved even at the stage of pouring the screed, will make it possible to resort to scraping and grinding less often, and, therefore, extend its “life”. Remember this.

Also important are the brand of glue used for parquet, and the primer base.

Humidity in the room should be maintained in the range from 40 to 65 percent, temperature - from +18 C to + 24 C. If the humidity exceeds the recommended values, then the parquet plates may swell and deform. Too dry air will lead to "shrinkage" of wood, the appearance of cracks in the floor. Any ingress of water on the parquet flooring must be eliminated as soon as possible.
To increase the wear resistance of parquet, chemical agents are used: varnishes, oils and hard wax. The lacquer or oil coating should be renewed as it wears out, thereby extending the life of the parquet floor.

Piece parquet or parquet board - who is "longer"?

Of course, piece parquet is not a cheap pleasure. The market offers a more acceptable option - the use of parquet boards.

This type of flooring will cost the owner several times cheaper. But the service life of the parquet board will be up to 25 years(instead of 50 for some types of parquet).

If your renovation has been delayed, or you are only at the stage of planning the appearance of your room, you should think about purchasing a high-quality and stylish floor covering that would meet your wishes in terms of external data, quality, and price.

Recently, more and more preference is given to laminate and parquet flooring, and this is not surprising, because these materials are considered among the best on the market in terms of density and wear resistance.

However, the choice of such coatings has its own nuances, and it would be better to find out about the main pros and cons of laminate or parquet before spending money on their purchase.

Let's get acquainted with the main characteristics of such materials, and also learn from the reviews which is better, a parquet board or a laminate.

Pros and cons of laminate flooring

If you are interested in the question of what to choose: parquet or laminate, we advise you to learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of each type of floor.

Let's start with laminate: this flooring differs from most flooring materials in its multi-layered structure. The layers are created by joining fibreboard and kraft paper, which are combined with polymers.

For added protection, manufacturers create an outer layer of laminate that emphasizes a particular design of the flooring. The protective layer is based on melamine resin, which significantly increases the density and durability of the laminate.

Fibreboard laminate boards allow the flooring to acquire the required dimensions and shape, and also provide additional protection against climate change. To resist moisture, the edges of the inner layers of the laminate are treated with a special wax-based impregnation.

In the market of finishing materials for the floor, you can find different types of laminate. It is very important to choose a sufficiently durable coating, since not all varieties of this material are equally resistant to high loads.

Remember! The marking indicated on the laminate will indicate what loads the coating can withstand. This helps to determine the material for decorating the floor in rooms with different purposes.

So what are the benefits that will help you tell the difference between laminate and parquet? Modern laminate has many advantages, and here are the main ones:

the coating does not attract dust, and therefore does not require daily cleaning;
The laminate has a high wear resistance and is immune to accidental impacts. Laminate classes 31-33 will have maximum strength, but class 21-23 coatings are also suitable for an apartment;
with constant exposure to sunlight on the surface, the color of the laminate will not change;
the coating withstands thermal effects, so you can lay a warm floor under the laminate;
chemicals can be used to clean the surface;
laminate is great for decorating interiors due to the wide variety of patterns and shades;
when purchasing this coating from official manufacturers, you get a five-year quality guarantee.

As for the minuses of the laminate, the main one is insufficient resistance to moisture. Therefore, in the bathroom, bathroom and other rooms with a high level of humidity, it is better to lay other floor coverings. Another disadvantage - soundproofing properties. Laminate flooring can only protect you from external noise if you use an internal underlay.

If damaged, the laminate cannot be repaired. Therefore, be extremely careful with such a coating, otherwise you will have to spend money on a new one. Also, the laminate is inferior to natural materials in appearance: the top layer of this coating confirms its artificial origin.

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet board

Now let's find out what is the difference between a parquet board and a laminate. Parquet flooring is also multi-layered, but includes planks connected perpendicularly.

Due to this arrangement of layers, parquet has a long service life, high wear resistance and is immune to mechanical stress.

To understand the advantages of a parquet board over a laminate, let's learn more about its structure. The outer protective layer is created from varnish. The varnish is applied on valuable species of beech, ash, oak or other trees. The width of the wood layer is up to 6 mm.

Under the wood flooring is the central layer, consisting of lamellas or narrow boards. They are connected to each other using side mounts. The plank layer is perpendicular to the layer that goes above it.

The bottom layer of a parquet board, designed for its durability, is created from 2 mm plywood on pine or spruce bases. The plywood fibers are arranged similarly to the fibers of the wood species of the top layer.

So what advantages and disadvantages of hardwood flooring might influence your choice?

Here are the main advantages of such coverage:

reliable noise protection due to natural wood in the composition;
dust does not accumulate on the coating;
to process the outer layer, manufacturers use a safe formaldehyde-free varnish;
the parquet board can be sanded and restored: the number of such manipulations will depend on the width of the coating. However, not all masters are ready to take on parquet processing;
high-quality parquet has a spectacular appearance and looks advantageous in any interior due to its naturalness;
the parquet board is easy to install and does not require super complex cleaning;
This type of coverage can be guaranteed for more than 10 years.

The disadvantages of parquet boards include moisture intolerance, faster abrasion of the varnish protective layer compared to laminate, as well as the need to maintain a normal microclimate in the room where such material is laid.

Making a choice

Which one is better, parquet or laminate? To answer this question and make the right choice, let's compare laminate and parquet.

The main selection criteria will be wear resistance, tolerance to temperature changes and moisture, external characteristics, surface care features, as well as cost differences.

If we analyze how laminate differs from parquet in terms of resistance to external damage, then, unequivocally, you should opt for a good quality laminate. Such a coating will withstand high weight loads, and even after a certain period of operation, dents, beveled zones and cracks will not appear on the surface.

Advice: thanks to this difference between laminate and parquet, you can easily rearrange the furniture in your home.

How does a parquet board differ from a laminate in terms of resistance to temperature and moisture? Again, the laminate will show you its best qualities. The difference between a parquet board and a laminate is that with excessive moisture or dry air, the material will crack or swell, respectively.

Laminate, on the other hand, will withstand changes in the microclimate of home premises and will even endure the heating season without problems.

The advantages of parquet over laminate relate to its appearance. Despite the fact that laminate can be considered a more practical and versatile flooring with a similar design (see laminate flooring options), natural parquet will always look more advantageous.

But it would be better if you make your choice, focusing on the style of your room: for example, in modern or high-tech interiors, laminate will also be appropriate.

The difference between a parquet board and a laminate manifests itself in ease of maintenance. It is always easier to care for artificial materials, so a laminate on this basis is chosen more often. To clean the surface, you can regularly wash the laminate with water and gentle household products.

In the case of parquet, it is necessary to minimize wet cleaning, and if such cleaning of the surface is carried out, then be extremely careful.

Advice: use for cleaning special products designed for parquet boards, which will add extra shine to the varnish coating.

Parquet flooring or parquet laminate is considered one of the most expensive flooring materials. But you can also find more budget options of not very high quality, if the operating conditions allow the use of coatings with less wear resistance or product resistance to external influences.

If we compare laminate and parquet board, then the laminate with optimal characteristics will be many times cheaper.

Read about: in detail about the varieties, classification and purpose of each type of linoleum, tips on choosing material for residential premises.

You can learn more about the varieties of linoleum: types, classes, optimal thickness are described, an overview of the main manufacturers is given and a rating of the best is presented.

The procedure and main stages of repair in the apartment - in the article at:

Questions about laminate and parquet

Can you put laminate on old parquet?

Can laminate flooring be laid on parquet boards? Yes, just like any other wood floor. But such an installation can only be carried out with a strong deterioration of the old coating. In addition, if you are interested in whether it is possible to lay a laminate on a parquet floor, you must understand all the intricacies of this process.

How to lay laminate on parquet floor depends on its condition. It is possible that you will have to start by eliminating voids in the surface of the old coating. Strengthen shaky parts, and close the holes with elements of chipboard or wood. Also make sure that the old floor does not creak. After laying the laminate on the parquet, you will not be able to correct this shortcoming.

If you are wondering if laminate flooring can be laid on parquet, then check out the basic installation steps. After checking the parquet for strength, restoring and puttying individual areas, carefully clean the surface from contamination. Walk on the primer coating, then let the floor dry. And only after that, start laying the substrate and laying the laminate on the parquet floor.

What is more expensive: parquet or laminate?

If you are looking for what is cheaper, laminate or parquet, choose a quality laminate, as its cost will be much lower than the price of even the poorest quality parquet.

What is the difference between parquet board and parquet?

The differences between parquet and parquet boards are in the principle of production, appearance and performance. For example, parquet is a solid wood material, while a parquet board consists of several layers.

Parquet tolerates moisture worse and reacts negatively to changes in the microclimate. But the parquet board is more difficult to install on the floor.

As for the appearance, the parquet board is immediately treated with a protective oil or varnish.

Therefore, when choosing which is better, parquet or parquet board, start from the characteristics that are most important to you.

Which is warmer: laminate or parquet?

These coatings are facing, so floor insulation must be carried out at the expense of an additional substrate. The difference in warmth between parquet and laminate will only depend on the type of interlayer you choose.

How to distinguish parquet from laminate?

What is the difference between laminate and parquet board? First of all, in the naturalness of such coatings. Therefore, carefully study the surface: if it is natural, you will not see a repeating texture.

If the coating has been used for a long time, you can distinguish between laminate and parquet by the changes that have appeared due to moisture or weight loads.

Is there an alternative to laminate and parquet?

Any cladding can serve as an alternative to laminate and parquet board, depending on what criteria you choose it for. The closest option is natural cork.