Make a spoiler for a sedan. Making a spoiler with your own hands

", many motorists, having installed something more like a football goal on their "basin", refer their "masterpieces" to the class of pumped cars.

But if you don’t like such a scenario and you decide to thoroughly approach this issue, I recommend this article to you as a guide with which you can create the right wing with your own hands, spending a minimum of money and your free time.

The task of the wing is to press the rear leading part, thus increasing traction, and improving.

My today's article is about how to make a rear spoiler with your own hands. , without resorting to the help of specialists, using improvised means and the material necessary for this.

The creation of the spoiler took place directly on the model, a rigid frame of the spoiler was constructed, after which the molding and gluing of the part took place according to the draft matrix (template). It takes about ten days for everything about everything, provided that the hands are straight and there is a shaft of time. The design was peeped at some of the models, to be honest, I don’t even know which one I saw something similar to, but as it often happens, the hands simply reproduce some scraps or fragments from memory, as a result something of its own comes out .. .

So let's go...

Do-it-yourself spoiler: template

First of all, I estimated the approximate width of the wing , then cut off the necessary piece of hardboard. The convexity of the roof was reproduced by means of a curved chipboard guide.

Then I cut out the lath in the form of an arc and screwed it to the bottom of the hardboard strip, after that, due to the load, the hardboard itself formed the outer surface of the future spoiler.

Helped to fix the wing in space - plasticine. With the help of adhesive tape, I sealed all the places where plasticine slides will be placed. With the help of thick layers, I formed the spoiler supports, then installed a chipboard wing strip on them. By the way, plasticine perfectly allows you to adjust the angle of inclination of the spoiler plane, as well as its symmetry.

The next stage is sawing out brackets from hardboard, which are installed on the sides of the wing close to the car body pillars. It remains to fix them with plasticine from the inside. The final stage of creating a template matrix was gluing the hardboard with fiberglass patches, it took several hours to polymerize (dry) the resin, after which my frame was ready.

The removal of the frame was successful - there were no deformations and distortions, the spoiler model was removed easily. Thus, I got the upper part of the future template, according to which it will be possible to sculpt the matrix and the wing.

The spoiler matrix that I created is divided into two parts. The whole charm of making a spoiler “quickly” lies in the fact that the first thing is to create the upper part of the model, remove the matrix from it and after that the bottom is added.

To form a spoiler matrix, you must: use a thin and thick glass mat. On top of the woolly glass mat, a layer of glass mat is laid to secure and strengthen the matrix.

The second stage of making a spoiler with your own hands is fitting the spoiler layout.

After the resin has hardened in order, the inverted wing can be turned over and check what happened inside. Then I built the symmetry and formed the side racks (supports).

Then I corrected the corners of the model - stuck it on and cleaned it together with the matrix flange.

I sealed the lower part of the spoiler with fiberglass and made holes for the bolts, they should be located as close as possible to the spoiler model, this will allow the half-forms of the matrix to snuggle better and tighter.

I cut the "hairy" edges of the matrix with a grinder, since the thickness of the plastic consisting of 2 half-forms has a thickness of about 6-7 mm. At the end of trimming, the edges need to be cleaned a little, this will save you from unpleasant glass splinters.

It turned out to be extremely inconvenient to open the resulting spoiler matrix, I had to use a knife blade first. Im passed between the half-forms with light opening movements. After that, he inserted wedges and all kinds of chips into the resulting thin gap. Some time later, after not very pleasant manipulations, the half-forms of the matrix still open.

To clean the matrix from plasticine residues, I used plastic scrapers, after which I blew everything properly with a hot industrial hair dryer and removed the residues with a sponge.

The part is formed with the obligatory use of a gelcoat, it is not recommended not to use an external protective layer on the spoiler at all. The fact is that after staining, there is a possibility that the texture of the fiberglass will begin to show through. Also remember to apply a release coat of matrix and gelcoat using a wide brush.

I want to note that aluminum powder gelcoat is not without drawbacks, the main of which is the base of polyester resin for molding. Paraffin, which is part of this resin, during polymerization is able to rise to the surface of the gel ... When everything hardens, the gelcoat has to be lightly sanded.

While the gelcoat dries, there is time to cut the glass mat and dilute a thick "baland" consisting of aerosil and "polyester", this substance will be needed to fill the sharp corners of the matrix.

You can understand what contact molding is by looking at the example of my spoiler. The gelcoat is covered with polyester resin, then covered with glass mat. I make the first layer from the three hundredth. Then resin is applied over the surface of the glass mat, after which it is nailed to the gelcoat with a brush. To get rid of air bubbles, which are highly undesirable, use a special cross-notched roller or make your own.

I recommend trimming the edges of the freshly formed part using a sharp knife until the polyester resin has gone from a jelly-like state to a solid state. This is important because this seemingly insignificant detail saves a lot of time. The resulting halves of the spoiler must be removed from the matrix and the edges slightly modified with sandpaper.

Climax...

DIY spoiler- ready! In addition, in the process, I managed to create a matrix, according to which in the future I will be able to make more than one such, if necessary. The process of gluing the two halves occurs as follows: on the edges of the spoiler halves, which are installed in the half-forms of the matrix, strips of slurry consisting of aerosil and polyester resin are laid out in a small slide. When the two halves are put together, these strips of porridge are in contact, firmly gluing the two parts into one.

Now you can get the finished wing and proceed to the final stage: grinding the hardened porridge and preparing the spoiler surface for painting.

Well, something like this ... From now on, you know how to make a spoiler with your own hands, moreover, now you can create matrices and templates yourself, followed by casting a wing of any shape. By the way, having once figured out how to make a matrix with your own hands, in the future you can use this experience not only for spoilers, but also for the manufacture of body parts, such as aerodynamic body kits, skirts, air intakes and much more.

It all started with a trip to the auto store, I noticed a list of spoilers of various shapes, made of fiberglass and at applicable prices (47-67 dollars) and, of course, I liked 1.

I leave a deposit, go out, try it on in a car ... bad luck, the length of the spoiler turned out to be 10 centimes. less desirable. Disappointingly, although willingly, and now various ideas begin to climb. 1 was such - take this spoiler, saw it, arrange an insert of 10 centimes. , the minimum amount of time spent, although another $ 7 is added to the price of the spoiler, as a result we get 74 (the vending spoiler cost 67 rubles) plus another coloring. The second idea is to arrange it personally, with all this offhand we get the cost of about 24-35 dollars. plus the shape of the spoiler can certainly be arranged to your taste. Because my work schedule allows me to calmly go about my own business and to face a certain thrift, I dared to take on this business.

Regrettably, my first step was made in the direction of garbage containers, this happens as a result of actually reading, it is actually possible to take polyurethane foam sealant and force out the form from it, I went to the shopping center. I read on the can, the actual size of the blown foam is within 20 liters. , thinking how much I would need for a spoiler, I took 1 can ...

A spoiler (from the English to spoil - to spoil) in a car is an element (or a set of elements) that changes the aerodynamic properties of the car body, redirecting air flows. In modern passenger cars, the use of spoilers is dictated by manufacturers' marketing calculations and practically does not affect the technical characteristics of cars, only giving them a formidable appearance of their sports "brothers". While in sports, the aerodynamics of the car is on the same level as the performance of the engine.

I laid printed publications on the floor and let's blow a blank out of the foam sealant. It turns out that, in fact, it is written there - "foam output 20 liters." in practice, only 5. I also needed to buy a couple of the largest, on which 40 liters are registered. I blew it, as prescribed in the attached memo, the best result is a maximum of 10 liters. In addition, the greatest defect is that the more you heat the balloon, the larger the pores in the frozen mass after that; reached 5 centimeters. Having spent 5 cylinders, I spat on this matter and came to the conclusion that if it is necessary to sculpt a little, then the reception is good and it is better that the cylinder is cool, and all this was done not in the steam room. So I threw 18 bucks in the trash.

I had to take the foam; It would not be superfluous to note that, at first, I specifically tried to adopt it, although then I had already categorically abandoned this idea due to the great amount of garbage, which is perfectly electrified and later sticks to everything.

Finally, a sheet of foam plastic 1x1 meter 5 cm wide was bought (the truth is really 4.5 cm, although this is so, trifles). Obliquely cut out the blade of the wing, otherwise there was not enough width of the sheet. Then I put aside the production of the spoiler and set about the most common thing - a stand for a number. Everyone understands that the actual Japanese numbers are the most square and smaller than domestic ones, as a result of this, our numbers do not look in the places provided for by them.

I cut out the blank, bought epoxy, although not the same, actually in syringes at 1.5-5 dollars per 30 ml, but in a cardboard box. The number and manufacturer are different, although the box is 1. I did not have fiberglass, where to get it at that time, I could not know. And here we needed dilapidated shirts "under silk". As they say, after two or three days I glued this stand, a few more days were spent on grinding and painting. I took the paint in cans of 2.4 dollars, covered it with varnish on top (Korean is spelled out).

This one worked out:

Further, no, not a spoiler, but a lip, it is easier to manufacture (at least the one that came out. I took off the bumper, turned it over, and glued a blank from foam, which was weakly adhered to the bumper on silicone auto-sealant. I tore off the blank and let's give it a shape. Then I wrapped it in plastic bags. I took away the final tights from my friend, pulled them on and smeared them with epoxy. After drying 2 layers of tights, I took out the blank from the sponge (so that it pulled out just the bags and are necessary, epoxy does not stick to them). Epoxy resin irrevocably polymerizes only after a few days.

She, of course, seems to be tough every other day, although this is sometimes the case (my lip has dried for more than a week). Wanting it entirely depends on the number of hardener, rather than more of it, the sooner it polymerizes, because the most fragile with all this comes out, and it is much better to add a plasticizer for elasticity. Then, the glued lip is not yet high-strength, as a result of this, I again took the shirt and glued it inside, 2 layers. It took 2 shirts on the lip. For stability in building materials, I purchased a reinforcing mesh and glued it to it. And after that was sanding, priming, painting.

A few tips: practice has shown that the lip is not glued from fiberglass, when hit it just crumbles like a cookie, the reinforcing mesh does not help :(, as a result of this, be sure to look for fiberglass or carbon fiber, otherwise all your work will go down the drain after a not very big blow. The glue was applied with a brush , it is perfectly washed in a solvent in the following days, although it is cheaper and in the absence of aroma it is possible to wash it in a stream of warm water.Do not immediately prepare a lot of glue, you may not have time to spend it all (I had the largest portions of 200 ml). stuck to you, often touch the water tap in the dining room to remove electricity.

I recommend sticking at least 3 layers of fiberglass (on the spoiler, 4, two layers of tights and a mesh were possible). Of course, not many at once, but at intervals that are important even for not very large polymerization of the resin. By the way, epoxy glue specifically polymerizes, but does not dry. In addition, this process is accelerated a couple of times at the highest temperature (almost up to 120 C, if I'm not mistaken), as a result of this, the main thing for him is time and temperature.

After gluing the spoiler, I threw the electric wires in it again, because in addition to the stop bar, I also wanted side lights. After that, I skipped the puttying operation, and besides, it’s too long to remove the planes with a primer alone, moreover, an excessively thick layer comes out. Well, as they say, having suffered for almost a month with grinding, I started painting. Here, as they say, 2 options, give to specialists or paint it personally. Naturally, professionals will come out much better, although if everything is done by myself, then why not paint it. Bought 3 cans of dark paint and painted.

The glass for the stop bar was made of epoxy resin. It is better, of course, to find a bar of a suitable volume from plexiglass or plex (something illusory and processed with a file), although I could not find one.

The car after installing the newest spoiler:
Styrofoam - fit into 1 sheet, besides, it remains = 2.3 dollars.
Fiberglass - it took approximately 2 meters at 1.8 dollars = 3.6 dollars.
Fastenings and welding - scrap metal and air from their people for beer = $ 1.
Shirts - wanted to throw away, the hand was not raised = 0.
LEDs 12 mm - 2x7 = 0.5 USD
Neon lights in the spoiler = 10 dollars *.
Paint - it took 2 cylinders = 4.7 dollars.
Primer, 3 containers = $6.5
Epoxy glue - I won’t say for sure, although approximately 2 kg (let 8 bottles of 2 dollars each) \u003d 16
USD
Foam sealant \u003d 18 dollars *.
Electric wires - 2 m. = 0.3 dollars.
Chinese brushes - 3 pieces = 0.5 dollars.
Grid = $0.7
Sandpaper = 3.4 dollars.

Artem comments:

Is such a homemade spoiler for a car needed only for beauty, or does it really help with something on a trip? Well, for example, it saves gasoline.

Paul comments:

It really helps with rear-wheel drive, but it doesn’t allow the rear of the car to splatter.

Alexey comments:

Scribe description, from the series "Google translator" drives. If only the text was checked and edited in addition to the photos.

Kolya comments:

Alexei, do you want to have a check or go? The description is normal, everything is clear, but if you need grammar, go to school to teach dictations!
And we are craftsmen here who do things with their own hands, and not grammatical theorists.

To improve the appearance of the car, the market offers various tuning elements, including a spoiler. The spoiler will make the car more attractive, give it positive driving characteristics. You can make such an accessory with your own hands, giving it the desired shape. Do-it-yourself work does not require expensive materials and special tools.

What is a spoiler on a car

A spoiler is one or more special elements designed to change the aerodynamics of a car body by redirecting air flows. The main purposes of installing this part are as follows:

reduction of aerodynamic drag;
increase in downforce;
fight against pollution of a car body.

It is worth mentioning that many install a spoiler as a decorative (tuning) element. Its fastening can be done in front, behind, on the roof or on the side of the car. With an individual approach, you can make a spoiler to order, which will allow even a serial car to stand out in the traffic flow.

The original spoiler from the tuning studio will make your car stand out on city streets

Pros and cons of installation

The spoiler gives the car the following qualities:

attractive appearance;
improved dynamics;
increased adhesion to the canvas;
reduction in fuel consumption;
improving braking efficiency.

It should be clarified that the positive qualities of the element in question appear at speeds above 100 km / h.

The disadvantages include:

high cost of structural elements;
increase in fuel consumption with an incorrectly selected form or installation;
fragile material of manufacture (plastic).

Auto tuning options

Today you can pick up a spoiler for almost any car, regardless of body type: from a sedan to a minibus. To make the choice easier, you need to understand in more detail by what criteria this tuning element is classified:

at the place of installation;
according to the installation method;
by material;
in form.

The main installation location of the spoiler is the rear of the roof or the trunk lid. It depends on the body type, as well as the size of the spoiler and its shape. You can attach a tuning element:

using double sided tape. The option is appropriate for small spoiler sizes;
bolt fastening. Many motorists do not like this method because of the need to make holes in the body part;
fastening with brackets. The option is suitable for those cars that have a certain shape of the rear cover and a gap between the body.

What material is suitable for tuning

As for the material for the manufacture of the spoiler, the most common are:

ARB plastic;
ordinary plastic;
fiberglass;
polyurethane;
aluminum.

In order to give preference to the construction of one or another material, it is first necessary to consider each of them in more detail, taking into account its chemical and technical characteristics.

Which shape to choose

Spoilers can be quite varied in form. To conclude whether this option is suitable or not, the part must be seen in front of you. There are cases when the shape of the element complements the part of the body, but basically the spoilers are represented by the most non-standard designs. With their help, you can give the car not only exclusivity, but also aggressiveness.

Spoilers can also be classified by design:

Rules for selecting a suitable spoiler

Today, many spoilers are produced for a specific car brand and model, but there are also universal options that are suitable for almost any car. The only difference is where they will be attached. The car itself should also be taken into account: if we are talking about the executive class, then the spoiler will obviously be an extra element in the design.

It is important to evaluate how the chosen accessory will look. To do this, just take the part, attach it to the car and see from the outside how it fits with its appearance. Many tuning studios have a special program with which you can choose the best option, after which they determine the installation location of the element. If the spoiler is designed for a specific car, then this question does not arise.

It is better to purchase a spoiler without a paint layer, which will allow you to find the color that matches the car. An important point is the selection of a suitable mounting method.

In order not to make a mistake with the choice, it is better to contact only reputable tuning companies. Only in such studios you can install really high-quality products.

When choosing a spoiler, attention should be paid to the material: in many cases, the part is made of plastic, which is characterized by both low cost and short service life. The plastic spoiler under the influence of sunlight quickly burns out and breaks with minor impacts.

In addition, there is such a material as fiberglass. The part made from it rather quickly loses its original appearance and fails.

Carbon products are of better quality and, accordingly, more expensive. It is important to understand that a high-quality spoiler should be made for a specific brand and model of the car, taking into account the improvement of its aerodynamic characteristics. Therefore, one can only say about universal options that the level of their quality is questionable.

How to make a spoiler for a car with your own hands

When and why do you have to ask yourself the question of making a spoiler yourself? Today, a large selection of the element in question is offered and, it would seem, it is not required to do something with your own hands in this regard. But then the cost of a quality spoiler turns out to be quite high, and this indicator is not a guarantee that the desired effect will be achieved.

Therefore, some car owners design spoilers on their own, getting the desired design and the desired effect from installing such an element. A homemade accessory can be made using various materials that the owner chooses based on his imagination and free time.

Tools and materials

To start making a spoiler, you will need to prepare the following list of materials and tools:

foam sheet;
fiberglass about two meters;
fixings and welding;
paint in spray cans (2 pcs.);
primer (3 cans);
epoxy glue 2 kg;
brushes;
spatulas;
mesh for reinforcement;
sandpaper.

Depending on the specific design of the product, the main material is:

gypsum;
Styrofoam;
mounting foam;
metal carcass.

Stages of making a homemade spoiler

The whole process of creating a structure can be divided into several stages:

mold making;
material reinforcement;
putty;
painting;
mounting.

It is best to use cardboard as a template. You can also use plywood, but this will lead to additional costs.

Regardless of the material chosen, after implementing the desired shape, be sure to try on the pattern on the machine. You need to make sure that the size is chosen correctly and the attachment points correspond to the intended places. You should make sure that the future product is symmetrical, for which the pattern is bent in half.

The frame can be made from different materials, but its main role is to keep the given shape at the beginning of the part manufacturing. The spoiler will be stiffened by fiberglass, as well as a layer of putty and paint. When choosing a filler, it is necessary to take into account the planned shape of the future product.

Video: making tuning elements with your own hands

Making a spoiler from foam and fiberglass

One of the important steps in creating a spoiler is proper design. "By eye" this element can not be done. The ideal option at the design stage would be to involve an engineer or an experienced person who is engaged in this type of tuning.

After determining the dimensions and design, you can begin to create a metal frame.

Quite often, in the manufacture of the rear spoiler, a 1.5 mm thick galvanized iron sheet is used, the edges of which are bent upwards. M6 nuts should also be welded to the base for subsequent installation of the product.
The resulting frame is glued on all sides with foam blanks to increase the volume; mounting foam is also often used. The thickness of the foam is chosen at the discretion of the owner. You can cut it with an ordinary clerical knife or a metal sheet. The result is a matrix.
When the spoiler blank is ready, fiberglass (glass carbonate, fiberglass) is used to stiffen it. A minimum of three coats of material should be applied at short intervals to cure the resin. Each subsequent layer should be denser than the previous one. It is necessary to strive to ensure that there are no air bubbles between the layers. The last layer of fiberglass must be coated with polyester resin. If desired, a brake light can be mounted in the spoiler, then the wires should be laid precisely at the stage of pasting with fiberglass.
To obtain good adhesion, the surface of the product should be primed, after which putty is applied.
The next steps are to clean the surface with sandpaper, this will give the spoiler as even a look as possible.
At the final stage, the part is primed and covered with several layers of paint, and then varnished.

Video: Audi A8 rear window tuning

Step-by-step production of a plaster spoiler

With the help of a material such as gypsum, you can make not only a matrix, but also a copy of your favorite spoiler.

For pouring gypsum, we make a box of foam. Then we put the part matrix or the finished spoiler into it, after wrapping it in cling film to avoid damage.
Fill the box with plaster. After the material hardens, we cut it into two parts. After removing the original, we will receive an exact copy of the form.
To make a blank, we line the mold with a film and fill it with plaster.
After it hardens, open the halves of the matrix and take out the workpiece.
Subsequent actions are aimed at finishing, reinforcing and painting the spoiler.

To give the matrix strength, you should follow the same recommendations that are given for the manufacture of a foam spoiler.

How to make a foam spoiler at home

The procedure is simple, but requires care in order to avoid damage to the body coating.

We close the upper part of the trunk lid with polyethylene, you can also use masking tape.
We cover the prepared surface with mounting foam.
We are waiting for the foam to solidify, then we form the future part with a sharp knife.
In order to bring the product to the desired shape, you should use sandpaper.
We also add rigidity to the product through the use of fiberglass.
The final stages are similar to the previous methods for making an accessory.

The matrix can also be made from plasticine. The process is similar to the described sequence of steps for making a foam spoiler. Regardless of the method chosen, care must be taken to ensure sufficient rigidity of the structure. In addition, the fastening of such a tuning element should prevent its loss, ensuring reliable fixation.

Video: installation of a "duck tail" on a VAZ 2109

Anyone can make a spoiler for their "iron horse" if desired. To do this, it is enough to select the necessary materials and tools. It doesn't matter which car is tuned - Niva Universal or Mercedes Benz ML. If you carefully follow the step-by-step instructions, the car can be made much more attractive, as well as significantly improve its technical characteristics.

It all started with a trip to the auto shop; when I went in one day, I saw an assortment of spoilers of various shapes, made of fiberglass and at affordable prices (1400-2000 rubles), and, naturally, I liked one. I leave a deposit, go out, try it on in a car ... bad luck, the length of the spoiler turned out to be 10 cm less than desired. It's a shame, but I want to, and then different thoughts begin to climb. One was like this - take this spoiler, cut it, make an insert of 10 cm, a minimum of time costs, but another 200 rubles are added to the cost of the spoiler, as a result we get 2200 (the spoiler you liked cost 2000 rubles) plus more painting. The second thought is to completely do it yourself, while offhand we get the cost in the range of 700-1000 rubles. plus the shape of the spoiler can be made absolutely to your liking. Since my work schedule allows me to calmly go about my business and there are obvious savings, I decided to take on this business.

Unfortunately, my first step was taken in the direction of garbage containers, and all because after reading that you can take polyurethane foam sealant and squeeze a mold out of it, I went to the store. I read on the bottle that the volume of foam blown out is about 20 liters, estimating how much I need for the spoiler, I took one can ...

I laid newspapers on the floor and let's blow a blank out of the foam sealant. It turned out what is written there - "foam output 20 liters" in practice is only 5 :(. I also had to buy a couple of large ones, on which 40 liters are written. I blew, as it is written in the attached instructions, the best result is a maximum of 10 liters. And the largest disadvantage - the more you heat the balloon, the larger the pores in the frozen mass; it reached 5 cm. a little fashion, then the method is not bad and it is better that the balloon is cold, and all this was done not in the heat. So I threw 500 rubles into the trash.

Well, I had to take the foam; by the way, at first I wanted to use it, but then I abandoned this idea because of the large amount of garbage, which is remarkably electrified and then sticks to everything.

So, a sheet of foam plastic 1x1 m 5 cm thick was bought (although actually 4.5 cm, but this is so, trifles). I cut the wing blade diagonally, otherwise the width of the sheet was not enough. Further, I postponed the manufacture of the spoiler and took up a simpler one - a stand for a number. Everyone knows that Japanese numbers are more square and smaller than Russian ones, so our numbers do not look good in the places provided for them.

I cut out a blank, bought epoxy glue, but not the one in syringes for 40-150 rubles per 30 ml, but in a paper box. The quantity and manufacturer are different, but the box is the same. I didn’t have fiberglass, where to get it at that time, I didn’t know. And here old shirts "under silk" came in handy. In general, after a couple of days I glued this stand, it took a few more days to sand and paint. I took the paint in cans of 70 rubles each, covered it with the same varnish on top (Korean is written).

This is how the thing turned out:

Further ... no, not a spoiler, but a lip, it is easier to manufacture (at least the one that turned out :)). He took off the bumper, turned it over, and glued a blank from foam plastic, which was weakly held on to the bumper by silicone auto sealant. I tore off the blank and let's give it a shape. Then wrapped it in plastic bags. I took the last tights from my friend, pulled them on and smeared them with epoxy. After the two layers of tights had dried, I pulled the blank out of my lip (so that the packages are needed to pull it out, the epoxy is not glued to them). Epoxy finally cures only after a few days. She, of course, seems to be hard in a day, but this is not always the case (my lip has dried for more than a week). Although it all depends on the amount of hardener, the more it is, the faster it polymerizes, but it also turns out to be more fragile, and it is better to add a plasticizer for flexibility. Further, the glued lip is not yet strong, so I took the shirt again and glued it from the inside, 2 layers. It took two shirts to the lip. For strength in building materials, I bought a reinforcing mesh and glued it to it. Well, then there was grinding, priming, painting.

In terms of clinging to the lip ... on the first trip out of town, I updated it :) (high speed + swelling on the road), in the 3rd photo it is already under repair.

Well, it came to the spoiler ... I did the fastenings like this: cut out 1.5 mm plates from sheet steel, drilled 3 mm holes in 2-3 cm increments, bent the letter L for better gluing and weight reduction, welded two 6 mm nuts at the base . Then I glued them into foam blanks, pasted over the wing blade with a couple of layers of fabric and assembled everything. And then - lo and behold, a man known by the nickname Paperman, told where there is fiberglass, and I'll tell you that only carbon fiber is better than fiberglass :) (if you can find it), it is lighter and stronger.

A few tips: as practice has shown, the lip glued is not made of fiberglass; crumbles like a cookie, and the reinforcing mesh does not help :(, so be sure to look for fiberglass or carbon fiber, otherwise all your work will go down the drain after a small blow. The glue was applied with a brush, it is then washed off wonderfully in a solvent, but it can be washed cheaper and odorless under a hot stream water.Do not prepare a lot of glue at once, you may not have time to use up all of it (I had the largest portions of 200 ml).To prevent foam chips from sticking to you, often touch the water tap in the kitchen to remove electricity.

I advise you to glue at least three layers of fiberglass (on the spoiler it turned out 4 + two layers of tights and a mesh). Naturally, not all at once, but at intervals necessary for at least a small polymerization of the resin. By the way, epoxy glue polymerizes, not dries. Moreover, this process is accelerated several times at a higher temperature (up to 120 C, if I'm not mistaken), so the main thing for it is time and temperature.

Having glued the spoiler, I re-threaded the wires in it, because in addition to the stop bar, I also wanted side lights. Then I skipped the puttying operation, but in vain, it takes a very long time to remove the planes with just one primer, and it turns out to be too thick a layer. Well, in general, having suffered for almost a month with grinding, I started painting. There are generally two options, give it to the specialists or paint it yourself. Of course, specialists will do better, but since everything is done by hand, why not paint it. Bought 3 cans of black paint and painted.

The glass for the stop bar was made from epoxy. It is better, of course, to find a rod of the appropriate size from plexiglass or plex (something transparent and fileable), but I could not find one.

Machine before and after:

The costs are as follows (lip, license plate stand and spoiler) RUB:

Styrofoam - fit into one sheet, and still left = 70.
Fiberglass - it took about 2 m at 55 rubles = 110.
Fixings and welding - scrap metal and oxygen from friends for beer = 20.
Shirts - I wanted to throw it away, the hand did not rise = 0.
LEDs 12 mm - 2x7=14.
Neon lights in the spoiler = 300 * .
Paint - it took two cylinders = 140.
Primer, 3 jars of 65 = 195.
Epoxy glue - I won’t say for sure, but about 2 kg (let’s say 8 bottles of 60 each) = 480.
Foam sealant = 540* .
Wires - 2 meters = 10.
Chinese brushes - 3 pieces = 15.
Grid = 20.
Sandpaper = 100

Total 2014 rubles, although if you do not count the foam sealant and the stop bar, then 1174. I did all this for 3 (three) months. So, if you have a lot of enthusiasm and patience for a freight train, then go ahead :) But I'm still going to make a rear and front bumper (not a very beautiful lip turned out, as they say, the first pancake is lumpy), ears and you can also cover the hood, but I won't paint.

The external tuning of a car is a kind of its uniform, the clothes by which both the car and its owner are greeted, of course. What details are related to external tuning? All kinds of body kits, pads, chrome parts, rear wings (they are also spoilers). Without exception, all cars, even before being manufactured, pass through the hands and eyes of designers who create one or another appearance for them, but it often happens that a happy buyer and owner of a car remains dissatisfied with this design, and then ... Then there is a need for improvement and external improvement your car, the search for possible solutions begins. One of these decisions is an acute desire to buy a spoiler. However, you don't have to buy it at all. If you read the following general information on how to do do-it-yourself spoiler, then it is quite possible that your obsession with buying a store copy will disappear.

Material and tool options

There are several well-known ways to make a spoiler. Moreover, some craftsmen use tin blanks as the basis for the form, others use gypsum fills, others cut them out of wood or foam, and some, especially brave ones, can create a tuning masterpiece even from an ordinary newspaper. We will not take a specific example and dwell on it, because this is a matter of taste, skill, dimensions of your car and personal capabilities, but in any case, you will need the following set of tools and materials:

a fairly large piece of fiberglass;
reflective tape;
two or three cans of paint;
about the same number of cans of primer;
approximately 3 kg of epoxy glue;
five pieces of brushes for applying paint and glue;
two rolls of sandpaper (large, for shaping and fine, for grinding).

By the way, get ready to work hard and painstakingly, because in a day or two such work cannot be done in any way. In general, expect to spend at least two weeks if you want a nice and neat spoiler.

The nuances of each material

When working with iron, be careful and attentive to the edges of the cut out pattern, because metal can seriously damage not only clothes, but also your own hands.
When using foam as a template, consider its hardness and density. For its processing, both ordinary sandpaper and a file or even a sharp clerical knife can fit.
Gypsum molds are good because when poured, they take almost any shape that you have in mind. But do not forget that gypsum is a heavy and very fragile material. From one wrong move, it can not only split, but also turn into dust. In addition, you still have to make some form where it needs to be poured. It is better to use the same foam or wood.
Well, the most masterpiece way - newspaper. To make the basis for a spoiler from such an unusual material, a lot of intelligence is not needed. It is enough to unfold the sheet, twist it very tightly into a tight tube, fixing it around the edges with glue so that it does not unwind, and then repeat these operations several times, laying the newspaper tubes one after the other, depending on the size of the spoiler being designed.

In principle, this is not a complete list of all kinds of materials suitable for use and the manufacture of a spoiler. If the theory is clear to you, then you can make the base from anything - even from a crumb of bread, like criminals in prisons.

Final process

After making the base, you must make the so-called "reinforcement". Simply put, taking the finished base, you need to give it a specific desired shape and clothe it in several (three to four) layers of fiberglass. Then the entire structure must be impregnated with epoxy glue, allowed to dry and harden, and a primer applied. After applying and drying the primer, the product is carefully (precisely carefully !!!) sanded with sandpaper so that the aerodynamics are perfect, and then painted and dried again. Finally, a reflector tape is glued to the rear of the finished spoiler, although this is not necessary, and the spoiler is installed on the trunk lid, for example. Now your car will take on a sporty and fast-moving look, and you will be greeted exactly by the clothes you made yourself.

And just for fun: