Spirea propagation by cuttings. Green cuttings of spirea in spring and summer

According to decorative features, spirea belongs to the group of beautifully flowering ornamental deciduous shrubs. According to the classification - plants of the Rosaceae family, in which a separate genus Spirea is distinguished. The genus unites over 100 species of deciduous shrubs of creeping, upright, hemispherical and other forms 1.0-2.0 m high. Spireas are decorative and, when cultivated in culture, can grow in one place from 15 to 40 years. Abundant flowering in the spring-summer period, which begins at the age of 3, unpretentiousness in care, the ability to reduce the noise background of the city, gas resistance makes them among the favorites for landscaping public gardens, parks, and industrial areas.

Biological characteristic

Spireas are perennial shrubs with a spreading crown. The leaves are simple, alternate on long petioles, pinnate, palmate, serrate-toothed, give the shrub an elegant look, especially in the spring. The flowers are small, from white to dark pink, collected in paniculate or umbrella-thyroid inflorescences. The refined grace of a flowering bush is comparable to the fragile beauty of the bride, for which the popular name of the spirea is the daughter-in-law. The root system is fibrous, spreads in the upper layers of the soil, which allows planting shrubs near underground utilities. Spireas are resistant to pests and diseases, drought and frost resistant.

Application in landscape design

The beautiful form of the shrub is used for solitary and group plantings in landscape gardening of mowed lawns, large park areas. In dachas and country cottages, spirea is a wonderful element of a hedge. In combination with skumpia, conifers, and other perennials, it is part of unique plant compositions, mixborders. Spirea easily tolerate pruning, so they are often used as a border culture.

Reproduction methods

Spireas reproduce by seed and vegetatively. Of the vegetative methods, spirea propagation is used by dividing the bush, layering, cuttings.

seed

If a large amount of planting material is needed (for a hedge), then seed propagation is most acceptable. Seeds do not need stratification and are sown in the year of collection in autumn or spring.

Japanese spirea, oak-leaved spirea are best propagated by seeds), the germination of seeds of which is more than 80%.

For sowing seeds, containers 20-30 cm high are filled with a mixture of leafy and soddy soil (1: 1) with the addition of a small amount of humus and sand to loosen the soil. Seeds are sown on a moistened soil surface, sprinkled with peat or a mixture of humus and sand. Cover with foil and place in the shade without drafts. Shoots appear after 7-10 days. The film is removed. With undergrowth up to 2 cm in height, the seedlings dive into other containers. When picking, pinch the central root by 1/3 of the length and plant the seedlings at a distance of 5-7 cm.

After 1-2 months, the seedlings are transplanted to a separate bed in open soil and placed on a permanent bed next spring. Seedlings in the first year are 5-10 cm single-stemmed twigs. Miniature plants need proper care: moderate watering with mulching, fertilizing, loosening. It is very important not to trample them and not lose them in the weeds. Therefore, it is better to fasten the plant with twine through a figure eight to a wooden marker. Seedlings planted permanently bloom for 3 years. It is better to cut off the first inflorescences. During this period, care consists in timely watering, destruction of weeds. Top dressing can be applied 1 time in the spring no more than 25-40 g / bush of nitroammophoska or other mineral complete fertilizer.

Vegetative

Vegetative propagation is used if it is necessary to preserve all the characteristics of the mother plant, if it is not possible to obtain new plants by seed propagation (hybrids). Vegetative propagation allows you to quickly get mature plants, but in smaller quantities.

By dividing the bush

By dividing the spirea bush, they are propagated at the age of 3-4 years, when the bush is already formed, and the root system allows it to be divided into separate divisions almost painlessly for plants. By dividing the spirea bush can be propagated throughout the growing season. Reproduction of spirea in the fall by dividing the bush is most appropriate.

We dig up a bush, shake off the soil from the roots. We rinse from adhering soil and disassemble the bush into parts so that each has several healthy shoots and a lobe of the root system. Carefully cut the bush with a disinfected pruner. We shorten the roots by 3-6 cm, so that in the soil the root system begins intensive development and the formation of young roots. We keep the delenka prepared for planting in a container with a solution of root or other stimulant. 2-4 hours.

At the selected site, we dig a landing hole to the depth of the root system. We pour soil on the bottom with a mound and straighten the root of the delenka along it. We fall asleep with soil to the middle of the pit. We water and finally fall asleep with soil. We place the root neck at the level of the soil. From above, we mulch the soil with peat, humus, fallen leaves or sawdust (not coniferous). In the first month, in hot weather, watering is carried out after 2-3 days, in cloudy weather, one watering per week is enough.

layering

For reproduction by layering, the lower healthy shoots are used. In the spring, we dig a groove 8-10 cm deep from the shoot. We place the shoot selected for rooting at the bottom of the recess, pinch the top, pin it to the bottom with a V-shaped broken rod and sprinkle it with soil. During the summer, keep the soil moist. For the winter we warm with dry foliage, straw, peat. By the spring of next year, the shoot at the internodes forms a bunch of roots. It is separated from the mother plant and planted permanently.

cuttings

If it is necessary to obtain a sufficiently large number of plants while maintaining varietal characteristics, then the most suitable method of propagation is cuttings. This method is especially convenient for propagating hybrids in order to obtain a large amount of planting material.

We harvest cuttings from spring-flowering species of spirea in early June, and from summer-flowering species in the second half of June-early July. For cutting cuttings, we choose a one-year-old healthy shoot with vertical growth. We cut individual cuttings from the middle part of the shoot with 4-5 leaves. We remove the bottom 2 leaves completely, and shorten the rest (1/2 leaf blade). The lower part of the cuttings is placed in a container with a solution of the root former (epin, root).

We fill the prepared container (pots, small boxes) with sand or a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1). We moisten the substrate and plant the cuttings to a depth of 2-3 cm at an angle of 45 *. From above we cover the container with plastic wrap, you can use glass, imitating a greenhouse. For full rooting, the cuttings need high humidity. Therefore, in the first month we moisten (do not fill with water) the substrate 3-4 times a day and be sure to spray it daily with warm water from a spray bottle (we create artificial fog). We place a container with cuttings in the shade of a tree, protecting from drafts. With the onset of a steady cold, we remove the coating, dig the containers into the ground, insulate them with leaves, cover with a box. In the spring, with the onset of heat, we plant the cuttings on a separate bed for growing. Rooted cuttings are planted in prepared places.

Species for home breeding

Types of spire are divided into 2 large groups:

• spring blooming,
• summer flowering.

Groups (up to 90 varieties) differ in the time and duration of flowering, flower color and the place where inflorescences are set.

Spring flowering species of spirea differ in inflorescences from white to cream. Inflorescences form on the shoots of the previous year. Bloom in May. Flowering comes amicably, but its duration is 1-2 weeks. Pruning is carried out immediately after flowering. For home breeding, the most popular are gray spirea, Thunberg, Vangutta, crenate, oak-leaved. All of them differ in the height of the bush and the shape of the crown, the color of the foliage. Very decorative in lush white bloom.

Summer-flowering species are highly decorative inflorescences of bright flowers from pink to crimson. They form inflorescences on the shoots of this year. Therefore, pruning is carried out only in the spring. Flowering is bright, long (more than a month). Many species have yellow, golden, red leaves, which emphasizes the originality of the bush against the background of other plants with a dark green crown. Japanese spirea (Shirobana, Little Princesses), macrophylla, Darts Red, white, loose-leaved are popular in home breeding. The hybrids of Billard, Bumald are distinguished by a special attractiveness of the color scheme.

After the flowering period of spirea comes to an end, the plant loses its decorative qualities. However, this is not at all a reason to forget about it, because after flowering, you can safely proceed to cutting and rooting it.

In spring, you can observe the chic flowering of the following types of spirea: Thunberg, gray spirea, hornate spirea, oak-leaved spirea, nippon spirea, alpine spirea, medium spirea, Vangutta spirea, plum-leaved spirea, St. All of them begin to bloom in April-May, and finish in mid-summer. More precise dates depend on the climatic conditions of the region. All these varieties of spirea are sheared after flowering - it is during this period that buds are laid on the shoots of the previous year. There is also their active growth and degeneration with a strong thickening of the bush. If this plant flaunts on your site, it's time to give it due attention.

Spirea bloom ©ofazende.ru

All types of spirea tolerate pruning without problems, so do not be afraid to cut the bushes - the procedure will not bring harm to such a plan. Take care of garden tools, it is important that the secateurs are well sharpened.

Removing dry inflorescences

First, carefully cut off the dry brushes of inflorescences. Often they are thin, and the branches on which the flowers are located are in a dried state. Such a procedure takes a lot of time, because even young bushes of a plant dissolve several dozen brushes, most of which are located deep in the crown.

Removing dead and weak branches

As soon as the bush is cleared of brown spots, you can take on sanitary pruning. Mercilessly remove dried and broken branches - they will no longer be restored, and pathogenic bacteria can penetrate into the wound.

Read also:

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Weak shoots that grow from the ground itself and go deep into the crown are also to be removed. They thicken the central part of the bush, do not affect flowering in any way and in vain draw all the forces out of the plant. Cut them down to ground level. Make sure that there are no buds left on the surface, otherwise the spirea, instead of releasing one strong thick branch, will give a large number of weak shoots.

Thinning the crown from the root

As for the forming pruning, you can start it only when the plant is 4-5 years old. Until this moment, the bush has not yet had time to thicken much. The more sunlight that falls on the branches, the more abundant the flowering will be. That is why the center of the crown must be unloaded in time.

If in doubt as to which branches to cut and which to keep, prune specimens that are clearly lower than the rest, have a lot of branching, and have produced little bloom. Often their location is the central part of the bush. You can also focus on their external signs - they have a thicker base. On such branches one can observe many bare branches, with a small number of leaves.

You need to remove branches that grow parallel to the ground at the lowest point of the bush. You can try to make layering out of them. However, it is better not to breed dampness in the root area and cut them off immediately.

Spirea care after pruning

Spirea is considered an unpretentious plant, it can be successfully grown even in urban environments. But, if your goal is a lush flowering shrub, you need to pay attention and provide it with appropriate care. It doesn't involve any special efforts.

The plant needs to be watered infrequently. The procedure should be carried out if there is a severe drought (longer than 2 weeks). In hot summers, it is also recommended to increase the number of waterings. Spirea does not tolerate when the sun's rays literally dry up the moisture on the leaves, so the ideal time for watering is evening. In extreme cases, you need to water the plant under the root.

Read also:

Should I prune peonies after flowering?

If we talk about weeding, then such a plan is not considered a mandatory procedure. Grass should be cut regularly, especially if low-growing varieties are grown. Thistle and wheatgrass can draw most of the nutrients out of the bush. Moreover, breaking through the dense crown of spirea, they become indestructible and negatively affect the decorative qualities of the composition.

Used photo under standard license ©ofazende.ru

It is necessary to fertilize under the bush 2-3 times a year. As a feed, complex mineral fertilizer or organic matter is used. Spirea perfectly perceives watering with a 10% solution of chicken manure or mullein, infusion of cut grass with bread. The trunk circle is recommended to be mulched with a layer of compost. It is necessary to carry out the first feeding of the plant before it blooms (in May), the second - after flowering, the third - in early autumn. In the latter case, it is unacceptable to apply nitrogen-based fertilizers under the bush.

Step 2. Spirea cuttings

Burning the branches that you cut is not worth it. They can be used to propagate shrubs. We are talking about propagation by cuttings. Spirea grows quickly, it does not belong to complex-rooted plants. The plant feels good on different soils and pleases with lush flowering, so it can be placed under the fence or in the central part of the backyard.

The method of grafting is considered budgetary, since you do not have to spend money on purchasing planting material.

Cutting cuttings of spirea

For rooting, it is recommended to use young straight branches, with leaves that grow from the places where the leaves are attached. It is necessary to cut cuttings 10-15 cm long. Each of them should have at least 4 pairs of buds. The lower cut should be oblique, it should be located under the kidney, and the upper one should be made straight, above the kidney.

Next, remove the lower 1-2 pairs of leaves, and cut the upper ones in half. Before rooting the cuttings, they must be placed for 6 hours in a solution of indoleacetic or indolebutyric acid. For this, drugs such as "Heteroauxin", "Kornevin", "Root Super", etc. are suitable.

Spiraea is a deciduous shrub with a height of 0.15 - 2 m. There are more than 90 species of spirea in the world with different directions of branches - they can be upright, sprawling, recumbent. A variety of colors of inflorescences, foliage, crowns, ease in the formation of bushes, quick recovery after exposure to adverse conditions are important qualities that distinguish spirea from many other ornamental shrubs used in floriculture.

Japanese spirea is used for landscaping everywhere, even in the most northern regions. It has all the characteristics of an ideal garden plant. Each annual shoot ends with a large panicle with many rose buds. it is from the beginning of summer until the onset of cold weather. Unpretentious, easy to propagate, and luxurious flowering can decorate any, even the most sophisticated landscape.

Description of Japanese spirea

Japanese spirea Spiraea japonica - a representative of the Rosaceae family - migrated to us from Japan and China. A feature of elliptical or ovoid leaves is that when blooming, they are painted in reddish-brown hues, turn green in summer, and by autumn again change color to brown-purple. Breeders, using this effect, have bred many varieties with unusual foliage tones that change throughout the season.

For the duration of flowering, the Japanese spirea is the record holder. Its pink-red buds are collected in lush corymbose inflorescences. From mid-June, it is covered with fragrant caps of flowers. This magnificent spectacle can continue until the onset of cold weather. Japanese spirea has many garden forms, differing in flower color, bush height and leaf blade size.

How to care for spirea

Despite their unpretentiousness, Japanese spireas love well-lit places with fertile soil. It can thrive in shady areas, but it will be less showy and the foliage will not be as brightly colored.

Landing is best done at the beginning of the season. When buying seedlings, they choose specimens that have not yet begun to grow with live buds on twigs. Carefully check the roots and shoots - they should not break when bent.

How to plant a spirea will tell the video:

If seedlings with a closed root system, then the plant may be with blossoming leaves. In this case, carefully inspect all twigs and leaves - they should not be sluggish and dry, and the soil in the container should be dry or very wet. In the event of overflow or overdrying while in a container, such a plant may die.

The planting hole is prepared with a volume significantly exceeding the volume of the roots - taking into account further growth. Drainage is laid at the bottom from crushed old brick or expanded clay. To do this, you can use the remnants of the foam, after crushing it to the size of a walnut. Thoroughly season with organic matter and mix.

Landing is best done in cloudy, rainy weather. Having placed the roots in the hole, they are carefully covered with earth and thoroughly watered. The root neck should be at ground level. The soil around the bush is carefully mulched - this will prevent the evaporation of moisture and the formation of a soil crust.

After a day or two, plants with blossoming leaves can be shed with ammonia water. It acts as an anti-stress drug - it provides nutrition for the plant at a time when the roots are not yet able to fulfill their direct duty.

Watering

The plant is moderate if there has been no rain for a long time. If it sometimes rains, the spirea can not be watered. The mulch will help retain moisture.

Another useful top dressing: a tablespoon of pharmaceutical ammonia is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Plants can simply be irrigated with such a solution from a watering can so as to moisten all the leaves and twigs. The rest of the solution can be watered to other plants. Ammonia volatilizes quickly, so the solution is used as quickly as possible and is not stored.

Ammonia solution is a good tool with easily digestible nitrogen, it can be fed to spirea in a stressed state to quickly improve green mass growth and recovery.

The soil under the bushes is constantly kept in a loose state - this is achieved by mulching with bark, peat or compost.

top dressing

To enhance the quality of flowering, the plant is fed after spring pruning with a liquid complex fertilizer, and in the middle of summer, you can use an organic fertilizer solution with the addition of superphosphate. Do this after heavy watering or during the rains.

Spirea is quite loyal to the winter cold, but in order to avoid freezing in snowless winters, it is worth covering the roots and lower part of the plant with dry peat, moss, sawdust or foliage. This is especially true for very young or recently transplanted bushes.

Pruning spirea spring pruning video

Spirea can and should be severely pruned. She quickly recovers and gains strength. Pruning is done in early spring. Remove dry, old, damaged shoots at ground level. They give shape to the crown, shortening the sprigs that have broken out of the total mass. A spring haircut only benefits the plant - the more often the spirea is cut, the more powerful and lush the bush grows. This procedure is performed taking into account the nature of the formation of flower buds.

to developed kidneys. And small shoots are completely removed. After three years of life, the upper part of the old twigs is cut off to prevent their tops from declining to the ground. Thoughtful and timely pruning of spirea is aimed at achieving the maximum decorative effect and achieving a beautiful appearance. Sometimes cardinal pruning is used - the entire bush is cut off a little above the ground.

How to cut spirea in the fall, look at the video:

Pruning spirea after flowering is a mandatory procedure not only to maintain the decorativeness of the bush, it is an excellent stimulation of flowering in the next season.

Decorative haircut spirea in the summer on the video:

How to propagate spirea in summer

By dividing the bush

By dividing the bush, adult plants propagate.

• Do this in the fall or early spring before the buds open, watering the plantings abundantly.
• An adult plant is dug up, cut with a sharp tool into pieces with several growth points.
• The slices are dried a little and sprinkled with crushed activated charcoal to prevent decay.
• New bushes are planted at intervals of 0.6-0.8 m.

How to propagate spirea cuttings

• For cuttings at the end of June, they take a mature branch and cut it into several segments of 10-12 cm, which are planted in a shady place in the garden and maintain sufficient humidity there.
• You can also use green cuttings from this year.
• Cuttings take root well both in the garden and in pots on the windowsill, you just need to keep the ground moist.
• For the winter, the planted bushes are covered with a layer of fallen leaves or peat, and in the spring they are placed at the intended place of growth.

About spirea cuttings, look at the video:

Reproduction by layering

For propagation by layering in early spring, the lower branches are bent to the ground and pinned with a v-shaped wire, covered with soil from above. Already in the fall, roots form in these places and young plants can be transplanted to their new place.

Growing spirea from seeds

All types of spirea reproduce without problems by seeds, with the exception of hybrids. They may not set seeds at all, or seeds from such plants do not repeat maternal qualities.

Sowing for seedlings

• Seeds are best sown in spring in planting boxes with a light soil substrate.
• Planting depth 1 cm, distance between seeds at least 2-3 cm in a row, between rows 6-8 cm.
• Water moderately, there must be drainage holes in the bottom of the container so that moisture does not stagnate.
• Usually germination is at least 50%. The first sprouts appear within two weeks and in the first year of life they give one tortuous shoot.
• Dive when 2-4 true leaves appear in separate cups.

After 2 months after germination, seedlings can be planted in the ground. At the same time, the roots are slightly shortened to stimulate their branching. In the second year, the bushes begin to branch. It is necessary to monitor the soil moisture and prevent it from drying out. At 3-4 years, the first flowering begins.

Sowing in the ground

Spiraea can be sown directly into the ground, as soon as the earth ripens, in early spring, or in late autumn, before winter. Densely ascended shoots are thinned out, and when they rise a little, after 2-3 months, they are seated at intervals of 30-40 cm. They cover them for the winter, and plant them in a permanent place in the spring.

If you do not cut the spirea in the fall, in the spring you can find dense seedlings of self-sowing. These small seedlings can be left to grow and planted later as described above.

Pests and diseases

Usually, spirea is affected by a standard set of pests (aphid, rosaceous miner, rose leaf, spider mite) to combat which various measures are used - agrotechnical, chemical, biological. Particular attention should be paid to prevention. Healthy and well-groomed plants are less susceptible to attacks by various insects.

Three times treatment with ammonia water with an interval of two weeks, starting from the moment the leaves bloom, will help scare away unexpected guests and increase the resistance of spirea to diseases. Such processing will give an additional impetus to the growth of the vegetative mass, serving as a kind of foliar top dressing. Timely weeding, watering play an important role. Spirea is quite resistant to diseases.

In the design of gardens and parks, spirea is simply irreplaceable. It has a wide variety of varieties, does not inhibit other plants, and tolerates pruning excellently. Looks great in any garden. Perfectly complements the composition of low trees and shrubs. It serves as an excellent screen for larger brothers with bare trunks.

The spirea bush sprinkled with flowers on a green lawn looks spectacular. She is unusually attractive in a rocky garden in the company of undersized conifers. It is indispensable for creating a hedge, as it is an inexpensive planting material and is easy to form. It is very decorative during the period of autumn leaf coloring, reviving the fading nature.

Varieties of Japanese spirea with photos and descriptions

Japanese spirea variety Little Princesses spiraea japonica little princess photo

Little Princess is a low shrub with a crown diameter of up to 60 cm. It is characterized by slow growth and pink-red flowers in a corymbose inflorescence that appear in late June. This plant can make an excellent hedge.

Spiraea Japanese Spiraea japonica Golden Princess ‘Golden Princess’ photo in the garden

Golden Pincess is just as low, but with bright yellow leaves and pink flowers. Blooms in July. Leaves turn golden-orange in autumn.

Goldflame - orange-yellow leaves adorn this less than a meter tall shrub. Over time, the color of the leaves changes to yellow, and then to green. In autumn, the leaves take on a copper hue. Feels great in urban environments. Vigorous and fast growing variety.

Japanese spirea variety Spiraea japonica ‘Shirobana’ photo in the garden

Shirobana is a low shrub whose flowers change color from white to pink to red. A real chameleon. The rounded shape of the bush reaches a diameter of 0.8 cm.

Macrophylla - large wrinkled leaves of this variety become bright red over time. A very decorative variety that produces pale pink inflorescences.

Japaness Dwarf is a slow growing dwarf shrub up to 30 cm tall. It blooms profusely in mid-summer with pink inflorescences. Ideal on rocky hills, lawns, flower beds.

Japanese spirea variety Spiraea japonica ‘Crispa’ photo in the garden

Crispa - purple-pink flowers and wavy-toothed leaves on a spherical bush will decorate any garden.

Spirea planting and care in the open field photo

There are a lot of spireas. They are valued for their abundant and long flowering and amazing unpretentiousness. Even a novice gardener can grow a spirea. Due to the huge variety of species, it is easy to choose a plant for any, even the most demanding taste. All spireas are deciduous shrubs, their flowers are rather small, but very numerous. They resemble miniature cherry blossoms. Depending on the variety, they are white, cream, pink, raspberry. Small and graceful foliage also varies widely in color and shape.
The structure and height of the bush - from low, compact bushes to two-meter voluminous bushes with a drooping crown. According to the timing of flowering, spirea can be divided into two groups: blooming in spring and blooming in summer. Plants of the first group usually have white flowers and bloom in spring on the shoots of the previous year. Plants of the second group have brightly colored flowers and bloom in summer on the shoots of the current year.

Planting spirea
Planting spirea is best done in the fall, after leaf fall or in the spring before bud break. Too long and damaged roots of the seedling are cut with a sharp secateurs, we make sure that this cut is even, without grinding. The branches of the seedling are also shortened by 1/3. We prepare the landing pit in accordance with the size of the root system of the seedling. The roots should be located freely in the pit, not rest against its edges and bottom. It is believed that the planting hole should be twice the size of the root system. Fill it with soddy soil, peat and sand in equal proportions. The root neck should be at ground level. After planting, we crush the earth and make a recess for watering. Of course we water.

Reproduction of spirea
Spirea can be propagated by cuttings, layering, dividing the bush. The easiest way is layering. In the spring, select a semi-lignified branch, bend it to the ground and put it in a previously made recess (groove). Then cover the branch in the groove with earth and fix it with a stone. The stone should be heavy enough to securely hold the branch. All summer we regularly moisten the soil under the stone (do not lift the stone, water flows under the lying stone). Under the stone, the earth remains moist longer, and this is exactly what is needed for the formation of the root system.

Reproduction of spirea by dividing the bush
By dividing the bush, young spireas are propagated, usually at the age of 3-4 years. It is also possible to divide older spirea bushes. But this is rather inconvenient: a large earthen ball is formed on dense roots, which is difficult to dig and wash.

/u> Terms of reproduction of spirea by dividing the bush
Spirea is unpretentious, it will well tolerate the division of the bush at any time from spring to autumn. The main thing is to choose the moment so that the weather after planting the delenok remains cloudy for at least a week if you had to urgently divide the bush in the summer.

If it is not possible to water the plantings often, it is better to propagate spirea by division in late August - early September. The soil is warm, and the roots grow well, and the air becomes cool and humid - the plants do not lose much water to evaporation.

Division technology
Dig up the bush, capturing about 60% of the crown projection. It's okay if you have to cut off a few roots that go far to the sides. Wash the roots. Young plants, in order to wash off the ground from the roots, it is convenient to simply put them in a bucket or basin of water for an hour. Wet soil is easily washed off. Spread out the roots if possible.

You can divide the spirea bush and, together with the earthy clod, without washing. But in plants that were once planted from containers, the roots sometimes twist so that when dividing "blindly" you run the risk of leaving half the bush almost without roots.

Cut the bush with secateurs into 2-3 parts. Each division should have at least 2-3 strong shoots and a good root lobe.

It is desirable that the divisions turn out to be more or less equivalent.

Trim the roots: update the frayed sections (where they are clearly visible), shorten the long cord-like roots, trimming them to the length of the rest. After planting, they will begin to branch intensively, providing the plant with survival.

Dig a hole for planting a delenka and pour a mound in the middle of the hole. Set the division on a mound and distribute the roots so that they are directed more or less evenly in different directions.

Backfill the hole and water thoroughly in batches. In hot, dry weather, you need to water the spirea at least every other day, in rainy and cloudy weather - once a week. It is easier to take root spireas, divided in late summer and early September. Even if the weather is hot at this time during the day, fog gathers in the evening. And high humidity in warm soil contributes to the rooting of plants.
Spirea Care
Spirea care will not cause much trouble. Despite all their external attractiveness, spireas are quite unpretentious and grow and bloom well under the most common conditions - loose fertile soil, good lighting, no stagnant water, 3 times a season top dressing with a complex of mineral fertilizers and winter shelter for young specimens or for especially delicate varieties. The only subtlety in growing spirea is proper pruning.

Spirea pruning
Spiraea pruning is done depending on the timing of flowering. Plants that bloom in spring are pruned after flowering, and those that bloom in summer are pruned in spring. Some types of spirea grow quickly and age. You can rejuvenate the bush by pruning on a stump, or you can only remove old, dry branches. I prefer to use the second method, it's a pity to cut the bush almost to the root.

Watering and feeding
A shrub planted in autumn is better to cover, so it will be easier for him to endure a harsh winter. If planting in the spring, be sure to water the seedling regularly throughout the summer during periods of drought. Let the plant get stronger. On poor soils, spirea is fed in early spring. If the soil is fertile enough, you can do without top dressing. In drought watered, spireas that bloom in summer are especially in need of watering. Spring flowering plants are more tolerant of lack of moisture (with the exception of young seedlings). After watering, it is advisable to mulch the soil under the plant, this will retain moisture longer.

Diseases and pests
Unfortunately, pests also love spirea. True, a small amount.

The most dangerous is spider mite. The main signs are cobwebs, premature yellowing and falling of the leaves, holes in the inflorescences and leaves, as well as the general painful appearance of the shrub.

You need to deal with a tick immediately after detecting signs. And the means can be used in a variety of ways. For example, phosphamide (0.2) or karbofos (0.3%) is effective. As a rule, spireas are sprayed according to the method of application of a particular agent.

In summer, spirea can overcome aphid. The main harm is biting off the aphids of the inflorescences and sucking the juice out of them.

The fight against aphids involves the use of such a tool as pyrimor (0.1). It is also recommended to combine chemical and natural remedies. In addition to aphids, the pyrimor is not liked by the rose leafworm and the miner.
These pests can be identified by caterpillars and characteristically gnawed leaves.
Types of spirea
Due to the different shape and size of the bush, spireas can decorate various corners of the garden.

Japanese spirea- compact, slowly growing shrub about half a meter high. Blooms in summer, corymbose inflorescence. The flowers are pink (crimson), placed at the ends of the shoots. The foliage is light green, finely serrated along the edge. It is better to place Japanese spireas in the sun or in places with shading at noon. They look great on alpine slides, in rocky gardens, as well as in the foreground of conifers. Can be used to create a low curb.

Spirea willow- got its name due to the similarity of its leaves with willow leaves. This is a profusely flowering shrub with a height of a meter, or a little more. It has pink or white paniculate inflorescences. Gives a lot of root shoots, so it grows quickly. You can have it singly or in a group planting on the lawn. When creating a forest edge, they are placed against the background of trees, taller shrubs or conifers.

Spirea Vangutta- one of the most beautiful and abundantly blooming spring spireas. At the time of flowering, the sight is bewitching. Tall, two or even more meters tall, a cascading bush. All branches are densely covered with white corymbose inflorescences, up to seven centimeters in diameter. It grows rapidly, creating a dense green screen. Very hardy shrub. He loves the open sun, is not afraid of frost. It looks very impressive in a solo landing on the lawn. Great for making hedges.

There are varieties with decorative, variegated and yellow foliage. They are cared for in the same way as the rest of the spireas. The only thing you should pay attention to when growing varieties with yellow foliage is the appearance in the crown of branches with green foliage. These branches are regularly removed.
I wish you all good luck. And let your favorite garden delight and fascinate you with the beauty of flowering spireas.

From the genus Spiraea (meadowsweet) are extremely valued by masters of landscape design because of their versatility. After all, they can be used, for example, for rockeries, flower beds, borders, borders and hedges. Different types of meadowsweet differ in color and shape of inflorescences, height, flowering time, and their skillful combination achieves an incredible visual effect. By the way, spirea flowers have a delicate aroma and are suitable for cutting. cuttings and layering are the best ways to propagate this shrub. We will talk about this today.

Spireas have a rather long flowering period, especially species that bloom in summer.

Seeds, as well as vegetatively: dividing the bush, root shoots (layers) and cuttings.

Propagation of spirea by cuttings

Cuttings are the most productive way. The rooting coefficient in many species of spirea, even without the use of growth regulators, reaches 70% or more. When processing IMC for 16 hours, the yield is almost 100%.

The rooting substrate can be prepared from high-moor peat and sand in a volume ratio of 1:2 or 1:1.

It is possible to carry out rooting work from the second half of summer (summer cuttings), but experienced flower growers prefer to propagate spirea in the fall (September - October), as this reduces labor costs.

For harvesting cuttings, the strongest shoots are selected, which are cut into pieces so that 4–5 leaves are located along the length of the cutting. The bottommost leaf is cut to the petiole, and the rest is truncated in half.

Pre-planting preparation consists in soaking the cuttings in water (2 - 3 hours). If difficult-to-root species of spirea are propagated, then the cuttings are additionally treated in a solution of IBA (1 mg of indolylbutyric acid per liter of water). By the way, just before planting, you need to powder the lower part with a powdered root formation stimulator, for example, Kornevin.

The cuttings are planted in the substrate obliquely, at an angle of 45 degrees. By the way, this stimulates the formation of roots by inhibiting the growth of the apical bud.

In the future, care consists in regular watering and daily spraying of cuttings with water from a spray bottle (in extreme heat several times a day). In industrial nurseries, "artificial fog" installations are used. To ensure the optimal humidity regime, it is necessary to build a protective shelter over the cuttings.

During winter cuttings, pre-planting preparation is carried out in a similar way, only cuttings are planted in a greenhouse prepared for shelter for the winter.

"Summer" cuttings dive in the spring of next year, and "winter" ones are planted in a permanent place before autumn.

Reproduction by layering

Reproduction by layering is practiced in early spring. To obtain layering, the root shoots of the shrub or lower shoots are used.

The shoot is placed in a prepared trench, pinned for fastening and covered with earth. If you do not pinch the top and bring it out, then it will continue to grow and form a single seedling with a powerful root system. When you want to get a large amount of planting material, then pinch the top of the shoot. This stimulates the growth of shoots from the lateral buds. In autumn, the layers are dug up and divided into parts according to the number of regrown shoots.