Connection of 2 windows. Window Terminology Reference
A metal-plastic window is a rather complex design. Consider the basic terminology that window makers use when typing window and door structures, adding various options and product parameters.
PVC profile
Material produced by extrusion, with a given shape and cross-sectional dimensions, having a 3-, 4-, 5-, 6-chamber structure.
Reinforcing profile
Steel profile, which is located in the middle chamber of the PVC profile and is necessary to give the window structure the required rigidity.
Camera (profile)
A closed cavity (system of cavities) inside the PVC profile of a plastic window in which air serves as additional thermal insulation.
Frame
PVC profile, which is the main (bearing) in the design.
sash
The opening window element. It can be rotary, tilt-and-turn or folding (transom).
vestibule
The junction of the sash with the frame, impost or with the sash.
Hardware groove
Groove in the sash profile for fittings.
Impost
It serves as a frame divider into segments in which a sash can be installed, or the door can be deaf (there are horizontal, vertical and beveled imposts). Also, the impost can be installed in the sash (in this case, there are nuances described in technological restrictions).
Shtulp
A plastic profile that is attached to one of the sashes and serves to fit these sashes together. One sash is dependent on the other when opening and does not have a window handle.
Bead
Serves to hold a double-glazed window or a sandwich plate in the structure.
Falz
The surface of the profile, which is the support for the installation of fittings or double-glazed windows. The sash has an inner rebate (for double-glazed windows) and an outer one (for fittings). In the frame and impost there is only a fold for the installation of double-glazed windows.
Seam linings
Plastic elements with which double-glazed windows are installed in the structure.
sealant
A product made of elastic materials (rubber, rubber compounds) for sealing joints in PVC structures. Usually all profiles are already supplied with an extruded seal.
Extension profiles
Special profiles that allow you to increase the width of the frame.
Connection profiles
Profiles designed to connect several PVC structures located in one opening.
Corner connector(square)
PVC profile is predominantly rectangular in shape, used to connect the frames of the structure at a right angle.
Bay profile (variation)
A plastic window profile that allows you to choose the angle of location of plastic window frames joining each other from 90 to 180 degrees on semicircular, triangular or multifaceted glazed ledges in the building wall.
Connecting bar
Thin PVC profile, with which you can connect the frames of structures without significantly increasing their overall dimensions (3-5mm).
Bone (static)
Connecting profile about 20 mm wide with mandatory reinforcement. It serves to connect the frames of structures at a considerable height, to give rigidity.
double glazing
The translucent part of the window. Depending on how many glasses are used, single-chamber (two glasses and one camera between them) and two-chamber (three glasses and two cameras) double-glazed windows are distinguished. Mostly single-chamber double-glazed windows with a total thickness of 24mm and two-chamber - 30-32mm are used. The double-glazed window is filled with air or inert gas.
Configuration (formula) of a double-glazed window
Description, reflecting the number, thickness of glasses, their type and the distance between the glasses in the double-glazed window of a plastic window. At the beginning and at the end of the formula is the thickness of the glass.
Chamber (double-glazed window)
The space inside the double-glazed window of a plastic window, limited by glass.
remote frame
An element of a double-glazed window that serves as a spacer between individual panes. Usually the spacer is made of aluminum, less often steel, PVC or other materials.
I-glass (i-glass, energy-saving glass)
Glass with a soft selective coating that improves the heat-saving properties of the double-glazed window. Delays infrared (thermal) radiation.
Argon
An inert gas used to fill the insulating glass of a plastic window.
sandwich plate
An opaque panel that installs instead of a double-glazed window. In terms of its characteristics, it surpasses double-glazed windows in terms of thermal insulation, consists of high-density expanded polystyrene and is lined on the outside with hard plastic.
Glass tinted
Glass that has been given a certain color by introducing dyes during the glassmaking process (tinted in bulk) or by applying coatings (special tinted films) to the surface of the glass.
accessories
These are the mechanisms and details that ensure the opening of the sashes (handle, hinges, locking mechanisms, latches, decors).
balcony latch
A piece of plastic construction fittings that allows you to fix the balcony door in the closed position without turning the handle of the balcony door (mainly used from the side of the balcony).
Incorrect (erroneous) opening blocker
Prevents the handle from turning into tilt mode when the sash is already in swing mode, so that the window or door does not hang on one hinge (which can damage them).
children's castle
Allows you to block the rotary function of the sash, but leaves the possibility to tilt it (to limit children's access to the open window).
A loop
Detail of the fittings of a plastic window on which the sash is attached to the frame.
Microlift
Allows you to lift the sagging sash when closing, unloading the hinges. Creates additional support for the sash.
Micro-ventilation (slit ventilation)
Small gap when turning handle 45 degrees. The micro-ventilation mechanism is installed only in the swing-out doors.
Stepwise ventilation
It makes it possible to fix the inclination (tilting) of the sash in 4 positions. Achieved by simple manipulation with a window handle. The step-by-step ventilation mechanism is installed only in tilt-and-turn sashes.
Shprossy
These are decorative items. Shpross is installed inside the double-glazed window.
mosquito net
Interferes with penetration of insects into the apartment or the house through a pvc window. It looks like a neat element on pvc windows, which can be removed if desired. The mosquito net is attached to the outside of the pvc plastic windows.
Blinds
A light-shielding structure consisting of horizontal or vertical rotating plates that allows you to adjust the light and air flows passing through the plastic windows.
Visor
The element of the product is designed to drain water (installed above the structure from the outside).
Low tide
The element of the product is designed to drain water (installed under the structure from the outside).
Windowsill
The horizontal part of the inner frame of the window opening, laid at the level of the lower part of the frame.
Opening (window, mounting)
An opening in the wall for the installation of one or more window blocks, the design of which also provides for the installation of a mounting seal, slopes, ebbs, window sills.
Slope
Part of the window opening located between the window unit and the wall surface. After installing window blocks, it is most often necessary to finish the slopes. This can be done with the help of plaster mixtures, or gypsum boards, PVC foam, more often a sandwich panel is used. It is possible to install the finishing of arched slopes.
Lamination (color)
For "color windows" there are so-called lamination films. They are applied to the profile using special equipment on one of the sides of the profile (or both). Such a film can imitate the structure and color of various types of wood, or be colored monophonic. Lamination significantly affects the cost of a metal-plastic structure.
Roller shutters
Rigid aluminum movable structure that can be installed as a replacement for the grate.
Heat transfer coefficient
The value of heat flow through a unit area of the structure with a temperature difference between the external and internal environment of one degree. The higher the coefficient, the better the design retains heat. The highest rates are provided by 5 and 6 chamber PVC profiles and double glazing with I-glass.
Dismantling
Extraction from the window opening of the old structure before installing a new one.
Mounting
Installation of the structure in the opening with subsequent fixing of the window (mainly on anchors, anchor plates and polyurethane foam).
Mounting depth
The technological depth of the frame, what we call the thickness of the window in everyday life. This is the distance between the surface of the frame facing the street and the surface facing the inside.
Mounting gap
The distance between the wall and the structure frame. It is filled with heat-insulating materials (foam), further subjected to finishing.
anchor plate
A fastener used to pre-fix plastic windows in a window opening.
Anchor
Type of dowel used in the installation of metal-plastic structures. When installing the window structure on the anchor, it is necessary to remove the double-glazed windows.
Tool:
Perforator, screwdriver, hammer, screwdrivers, construction knife, gun for laying polyurethane foam.
Materials:
Sandwich panel for slopes, window sill and plugs to it, window sill, mounting foam, sealant, vapor barrier tape, vapor-permeable tape, PSUL, frame anchor, galvanized metal self-tapping screw.
How to properly measure a window?
In order to order a window block, it is necessary to measure the window opening correctly.
Consider measuring an opening with a quarter (this is such a ledge, found in panel and block houses).
First, let's measure the width of the opening (size A) from the side of the street. Using a feeler gauge, make several control measurements of a quarter (dimensions B1 and B2) ( rice. one)
Determine the inner width of the window opening: FROM= B1 + A + B2
measure size H from low tide at the point of contact with the frame (point M) to the upper quarter. Using a feeler gauge, make several control measurements of the upper quarter (size B3) ( rice. 2).
Determine the estimated height of the window opening: Y \u003d H + B3
Determine the width of the window block ( rice. 3).
If size IN< 40 мм
C - (2 × 20) mm
If size H > 40 mm(Fig. 1), then the width of the window block = A + (2 × 25) mm, where 24 mm is the optimal value of the frame for a quarter.
Determine the height of the window block ( rice. 2)
If size IN 3< 40 мм
, then the height of the window block = U - 20 mm, where 20 mm is the optimal mounting clearance.
If size H3 > 40 mm, then the height of the window block = H + 25 mm, where 25 mm is the optimal value of the frame for a quarter.
There is no quarter in the window block, how to measure?
Measure from the side of the street. If there is a layer of plaster, set the thickness of the layer with a narrow screwdriver ( rice. 4, 5)
Determine the dimensions of the window block:
Window block width = A - (2 × 20) mm,
where 20 mm is the optimal mounting clearance ( rice. 4)
Window block height: = H - 25 mm (rice. five).
Measurement of ebb and window sill
L ext. from. - the length of the outer slope, L ex. - tide length
B ext. from. - depth of the outer slope, B ex. - tide depth
L int. from. - the length of the inner slope, L under. - window sill length
B int. from. - the depth of the inner slope is equal to the width of the window sill, if it deviates from the inner edge of the wall by 50 mm
H open - height of the inner slope
L b.p. = H out. + 50 mm - side panel length (2 pieces needed)
L c.p. = L int. open + 100 mm - the length of the top panel (need 1 pc.)
L int. open - length of the inner slope
B n. (the depth of the slope panel is) = B int. open (internal slope depth)
Preparing for installation
Removing the window sash:
Remove decorative trims from hinges.
Put the handle in the "turn" position and open the sash.
Pull the top hinge pin down with a screwdriver, overcoming the resistance. Holding the sash from falling out, tilt it towards you and, lifting it up, remove it from the lower hinge.
Install the sash in place in the reverse order. When returning the pin to its original position, it is necessary to fix it with a screwdriver.
Installation of mounting plates:
Install the plate parallel to the frame and rotate it by 90°, with the long end inside the room. Fix the plate with a self-tapping screw with a 4 × 35 mm drill.
Installation of a window block in a window opening.
Install the frame of the window block in the opening according to the diagram:
Using a plumb line and level, align the position of the frame vertically and horizontally. The maximum deviation is 1.5 mm per 1 meter, but not more than 3 mm for the entire height / width of the product in accordance with GOST 30674-99. At the same time, pre-fix the frame in the opening by wedging with mounting wedges and spacers.
Bend the plates to the working position and mark the holes for attaching the plates on the slope of the opening. With a pencil, mark the outline of the opening on the outside of the frame.
After removing the mounting wedges, remove the frame from the opening. Using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, drill holes for attaching the anchor plate. Insert nylon dowels with a diameter of 6 mm into the prepared holes. Clean the surfaces of the window opening from dust.
PSUL sticker:
PSUL is installed if the window opening has a quarter. If the window opening does not have a quarter, the outer seam is sealed after installing the window frame with special moisture-proof, vapor-permeable sealants. PSUL is attached with a self-adhesive layer. Stick PSUL directly on the outside of the frame at a distance of 3-5 mm from the markings (Fig. 7) in compliance with the following requirements:
cut PSUL along the length with an allowance for overlap in places of corner joints to the width of the tape. It is allowed to join the tapes along the length with an overlap of at least 25 mm.
Fixing the window block in the opening
Install the frame in the window opening, using mounting wedges, according to scheme No. 3, checking the position of the frame with a plumb line and level.
Fasten one side plate with 5×60 mm screws into pre-installed dowels. Re-check the correct position of the frame with a plumb and level. Check the difference in the lengths of the diagonals of the frame of the installed structure:
With a diagonal length of 1 to 2 m, the difference in the lengths of the diagonals should not exceed 2 mm, with a diagonal length of more than 2 m, the difference should not exceed 4 mm.
Fasten the rest of the plates.
Remove all mounting wedges, except for the lower and diagonal ones, according to diagram No. 3.
Install the sashes on the fixed frame, close the sashes and put the handles in the “closed” position.
When installing a balcony block, check the frames of the door and the adjacent window for the absence of mutual deflection by measuring the transverse dimensions according to the diagram.
Foaming.
Moisten the slopes with a spray gun or a paint brush for better adhesion of the mounting foam.
Foam the seam around the perimeter:
- If the joint width is not more than 45 mm, foaming is done in one step;
- If the joint width is from 45 mm to 70 mm, foaming is carried out in several stages;
If the joint width is more than 70 mm, an appropriate "window expander" must be used.
Stand Profile
On the outer side of the window block along the support profile, lay one layer of foam.
Installing a window expander.
Additionally you will need:
For expander 25 mm
- self-tapping screws with a drill 4×40 mm;
For expander 40 mm
- self-tapping screws with a drill 4×55 mm
Stick PSUL on the outer part of the frame of the window block. Pull the expander with the frame with a self-tapping screw.
Connection of 2 window blocks or a window block and a balcony door
Additionally you will need:
metal drill 4 mm, universal silicone sealant, self-tapping screws with a drill 4 × 50 mm
Drill holes in the frame of the 1st window unit at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other.
Stick PSUL on the outer part of the frame of the 2nd window block. Fill the outer outer groove of the frames with universal silicone sealant. Insert the connectors into the outer grooves of the frames. Pull the frames with self-tapping screws through the drilled holes
waterproofing tape sticker
After the foam has hardened in the lower outer part of the window block, cut off the foam so that it does not interfere with the installation of the ebb.
On top of the cut foam, stick a waterproofing tape with an overlap of 10-20 mm on the outer part of the wall.
Final improvements
After the foam has hardened, cut off the excess foam protruding from the seam. Cut the vapor barrier tape according to the length of the installation joint. Remove the protective film from the self-adhesive layer and glue the tape along the entire length of the inner seam.
Next steps:
- Install the outflow from the street side, leading it into the groove in the lower part of the frame, and attach it with 4 × 25 self-tapping screws to the support profile. Install a window sill from the side of the room.
- Remove the protective film from the frame and doors.
- Install plastic slopes from the side of the room or plaster the slopes of the window opening.
- If necessary, adjust the hardware.
Install decorative trims on the hinges.
How to properly install windows in a wooden house, we will describe in the next article.
A modern metal-plastic version of the balcony door and window creates a beautiful view and comfortable conditions. The installation of a balcony block consists of a number of simple operations, it requires attention to detail, but in general the process is simple. If desired, a person who does not have professional skills in this area can perform this work.
Balcony PVC block consists of a balcony door and a window. There are different variations of this combination. For example, a window is located to the right or left of a door. Possible option: a balcony door between two windows.
Each of the elements of the block can, in addition to the swing opening mechanism, also have a folding one. There are also blind windows that do not open.
The kit includes:
- slopes,
- low tide,
- threshold,
- windowsill,
- accessories.
If we consider what a balcony door consists of, this is a box and a door leaf. The window has a frame and sashes.
Preparatory work
You should free up space from unnecessary things and furniture so that you can install a new design, cover with a film what cannot be taken out of the room to avoid construction debris and dust.
To carry out the installation of a balcony block, you should prepare a place for it by dismantling the old structure.
- Remove window sashes and door panels.
- To remove the wooden frame, it should be sawn at the bottom with a hacksaw. After that, remove it in parts from the opening, prying it with a crowbar.
- Remove the plaster from the slopes, if any, using a perforator.
- Clean off the remains of seals, insulation, mounting foam from the surface of the opening using a brush.
If the previous design was also a metal-plastic balcony block, then its dismantling begins with the removal of all fasteners, screws, linings from the frame after removing the inside of the doors and windows.
The opening should be freed from finishing to the main wall.
Step-by-step installation of a balcony block
To work on installing a balcony door and window, you will need tools:
- Bulgarian,
- foam gun,
- jigsaw,
- roulette,
- screwdriver,
- level,
- perforator,
- rubber mallet.
- drill,
- stationery knife,
- hammer,
- square,
- marker,
- metal scissors,
- mount.
Assembling the balcony block
Before installing a plastic balcony block, you should connect the door structure and the window structure into one. To do this, it is necessary to put the window unit with the balcony door on the upper sides, dock the side parts. Between them should be placed connection bar. It is necessary to check well that the upper sides of the frames that are on the floor are in line. For this operation, you must select a flat surface.
Tip: If the window has a movable sash, it must be removed for convenience during installation. In the door balcony block, you need to remove the door from the hinges.
Two sets are connected with screws. For them, holes are made in advance at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other in the frame of the door block and the structures begin to twist from its inside. After that, a single balcony block is obtained.
Choosing fasteners
The balcony block can be attached using:
- pins,
- anchor plates,
- anchor bolts.
Each type of fastening has its own advantages and disadvantages and can be chosen for work.
Tip: Choose anchor plates for fastening. In this case, installation can be carried out without separating the frames and double-glazed windows.
Preparing the balcony block for installation
Mounting plates are fixed on the two side and upper horizontal surfaces of the frame. They are attached with screws. Fifteen centimeters recede from the corners of the structures and install the plates so that they are turned towards the inside of the block. Between the extreme plates it is necessary to attach the intermediate ones at a distance of 50 ÷ 70 cm from each other. Skip the screw in the middle of the block width into the profile recess.
A PSUL tape is glued around the perimeter of the block from the outer edge. This is a sealing element prescribed by the regulations in order to protect the mounting foam from moisture and ultraviolet rays.
If provided, at this stage brackets are screwed onto the window for its fastening. They try on the mesh so that it evenly covers the opening, mark the installation locations for the brackets and attach them with screws.
Mounting sequence
Consider how to install a balcony block with your own hands:
- If the kit includes a threshold, then you can immediately begin the installation of the unit. If it is missing, you should start the installation with it.
It is recommended to use plastic mounting wedges rather than wooden ones. - The block is placed on stands (mounting wedges), which remain in place after completion of work, are not removed. They are provided for each vertical element of the block. In order to orient the structure in space strictly vertically and horizontally (transverse elements), stands of different heights are used.
- Temporary fixation in the opening is also done using mounting wedges.
- Check the level of the correct location in the planes: horizontal and vertical. Wedges make error correction. They are convenient to use as a pair of elements. The building level is placed on the horizontal element of the block. If necessary, correct - wedges are knocked in the right direction with a hammer. After that, a level is applied to the vertical component of the block and its location is adjusted with wedges that are installed on the left and right between the block and the wall.
- Now fix the block by fastening pre-prepared plates. They are carefully unbent and pulled up to the wall so as not to move the block adjusted in space. To fix the plate through the hole in one of them, a hole is drilled in the wall with a perforated drill, eight centimeters deep.
Screw a screw into this hole with a screwdriver, attaching the plate to the wall. And so all the prepared mounting plates are sequentially fixed.
Installing a low tide for an open balcony
- From the ebb blank, a part is cut with scissors for metal along the intended line, which corresponds to the width of the window.
- From the side of the balcony, a drain pattern is installed, screwed to the profile from the installation kit with screws.
- On the outside of the window opening, you can optionally install decorative corners. The gaps in the connection between the drain and the wall are filled with sealant on both sides.
Filling gaps with mounting foam
In accordance with the regulations, the upper horizontal seam should not exceed twenty millimeters in width, and the side seams between the block and the wall can be up to fifty-five millimeters, depending on the size of the structure. From the side of the room it is necessary fill the gaps with mounting foam, leaving one third of the space free. This will be the technological gap that the foam will occupy after solidification and expansion.
In order for the foam to pass all the necessary technological stages, the seams are left alone for a day. After that, the excess of hardened foam is cut off with a special knife. A high-quality seam should not have voids in its structure.
Installing additional parts
Do-it-yourself installation of a balcony block is almost complete. It remains to refine the details.
Window sill device
The window sill is adjusted in size so that it fits well under the window. Its width should allow it to be pushed two centimeters behind the window frame when installed.
Pieces of wood should be made into bars, which are placed under the part to be installed in order to avoid its deflection. The bars are sized to provide a window sill angle of two degrees.
A load is placed on the element, and then the joints are filled with mounting foam. The load is needed so that the hardening foam does not lift the structure.
Filling the joints of the window sill:
- first at the junction with the window,
- sides,
- under the windowsill at the junction with the wall, but not to the very edge.
After a daily technological break, you can remove the load.
Internal slopes
The slopes on the balcony block can be plastered or a decorative detail can be installed - special internal slopes. Often the kit includes sandwich panels. They will make the appearance of the slopes modern and aesthetic, in addition, they will insulate the opening .. You will find the answer to it in our article.
Tips for organizing lighting on the loggia. You will learn how to conduct electricity to choose the right fixtures.
Sequence of work:
- The sections of the starting profile are prepared according to the size of the length of the upper frame and side surfaces.
- The blanks are fixed with screws around the perimeter of the block from three sides.
- Measure the required dimensions for the top panel and side parts.
- Cut out the panels to the desired size.
- The panels are inserted into the screwed starting profile, first the top part, and then the side elements.
- One edge of the panel is fixed in the profile, and under the part of the panel protruding into the room, a small amount of foam is sprayed into the gap between the element and the wall, slightly bending the structure and then pressing it into place against the wall. Until the foam hardens, the slopes at the design positions are held with masking tape. After a daily break, the adhesive tape is removed, the excess foam is cut off.
Decorative architraves
- Prepare platbands (F-profiles) of the required size.
- The parts are put on the ends of the decorative panels; in the corners, a connection should be made at forty-five degrees.
- The joints of the side and top panels, as well as the bottom of the side decorative elements with the window sill, are sealed with silicone sealant.
Installation of a balcony block video
Here is a video on the topic of our article on how to install a balcony block yourself. In it you will find useful tips from professionals.
Our company offers expansion, connecting and stand profiles for window companies, analogues of KBE, VEKA, REHAU.
Stand profile PVC
PVC connection profile
The connecting profile is designed to connect structural elements of window, balcony and door frames, which consist of several window frames. Such profiles allow joining window frame profiles at the required angle, which is actively used in glazing winter gardens, partitions and windows of large sizes and complex structures. We offer connecting profiles similar to KBE, Rehau, Veka 0 degrees, 90 degrees. and adjustable angle.
PVC expansion profile
The pvc expansion profile for windows is used as an additional profile when it is necessary to increase the original dimensions of the window frame, for example, when insulating or finishing the ceiling and balcony walls. We offer analogues of KBE, Rehau and Veka expansion profiles with a width of 30, 45 and 60 mm. The additional profile is not intended to strengthen the structure, its main purpose is to expand the possibilities of the architecture of balcony, door or window structures.
30mm, Art. 144
45mm, Art. 545
60mm, Art. 546
Expansion profiles for KBE 70mm
30mm, Art. 360
60mm, Art. 455
We buy PVC window production waste.
For detailed information, please contact the managers of our company.
Source: http://polimerplus.info/profile_dop
Additional profiles Rehau
Additional profile (addition, expander) is an additional profile element for increasing the dimensions or strengthening the frame structure.
Application of additional profiles
Additional profiles are applied:
- to compensate for the width of the quarter openings and reduce the gaps between the structure and the slope
- to increase the width of the frame and install various window equipment, such as closers or remote fanlight control
- for increasing the width of the frame and compensating for the thickness of elements adjoining the glazing, such as thermal insulation boards
- to increase the rigidity of the structure
Rehau profile dimensions
Rehau extensions are available for each type of profile with the appropriate mounting depth - 60 mm (Blitz Design), 70 mm (Sib, Delight, Brillant Design) and 86 mm (Intelio, Geneo).
Step-by-step height - 10, 20, 40, 60 and 100 mm of additional profiles provides ample opportunities for the implementation of installation tasks. If necessary, additional profiles are joined together in various combinations.
Installation of additional profiles
Installation of additional profiles is carried out by slot snapping and fixing with connecting screws. To ensure airtightness, the joint between the profile elements is sealed with silicone, the internal cavity is filled with polyurethane foam, PSUL or other appropriate material. The ends of the additional profiles are sealed.
To increase the static characteristics, Rehau extensions are reinforced with a U-shaped, closed or tape steel profile with a wall thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Plastic and metal profiles - fastened with screws.
Design
Rehau additional profiles have a smooth, high-quality surface that is resistant to solar radiation and precipitation. The service life is comparable to window profiles.
Rehau trim profiles are laminated with colored structural films to ensure visual consistency with window and door designs. We offer 6 standard colors in stock program and more than 40 on order (delivery about 10 days).
The price of additional profiles Rehau
ADDITIONAL ELEMENTS FOR GLAZING STRUCTURES
ADDITIONAL PROFILES IN GLAZING STRUCTURES
CALL THE MEASURER
"Window company VESTA"
Source: http://www.ok-vesta.ru/windows/dobornye_profili/
Profile and accessories
Proplex™ profiles are produced on high-tech lines from Krauss Maffei, A+G extrusion technology GmbH, Technoplast, and the unique properties of the plastic are provided by the original mixture formula, specially developed by Chemson (Austria).
PROPLEX profile systems
Today we supply five PVC profile systems for window and door constructions:
Comparison table of PROPLEX profile systems
PROPLEX-Optima
- Number of cameras in profile 3
- System Width 58 mm
- 0.75 (0.641) m2*S/W
- Window thermal protection coefficient 0.752 m2*S/W
- Double glazing width 4-34mm
- Hardware system 12/20-9
- Profile durability 603 years
- Buy!
PROPLEX Comfort
- Number of cameras in profile 4
- System Width 70 mm
- Profile thermal protection coefficient 0.79 (0.701) m2*S/W
- Window thermal protection coefficient 0.792 m2*S/W
- Double glazing width 12-42mm
- Hardware system 12/20-9
- Profile durability 603 years
- Buy!
PROPLEX Premium
- Number of cameras in profile 5
- System Width 70 mm
- Profile thermal protection coefficient 0.84 (0.761) m2*S/W
- Window thermal protection coefficient 0.812 m2*S/W
- Double glazing width 12-42mm
- Hardware system 12/20-9
- Profile durability 603 years
- Buy!
PROPLEX OUTLINE
- Number of cameras in profile 2
- System Width 46 mm
- Profile thermal protection coefficient 0.55 (0.451) m2*S/W
- Window thermal protection coefficient 0.632 m2*S/W
- Double glazing width 4-24mm
- Hardware system 12/20-9
- Profile durability 603 years
- Buy!
Notes:
- Reduced resistance to heat transfer with a reinforcing element
- In the calculation of the reduced resistance to heat transfer of the finished window - a structure with a size of 1500x1500 mm, a double-glazed window with two low-emissivity glasses filled with argon:
- conditional year of operation - a unit of measurement of the durability of PVC profiles, conditionally corresponding to one calendar year of operation of the profiles in real conditions. The essence of the method is to conduct accelerated testing of profiles by cyclic effects of variable positive and negative temperatures, humidity, ultraviolet irradiation and slightly aggressive chemical environments (solutions) simulating the impact of critical operational loads, and determining changes in material properties by characteristic aging indicators (GOST 30973-2002 "Profiles polyvinyl chloride for window and door blocks. Method for determining the resistance to climatic influences and evaluating durability").
There are also a number of advantages for the PVC structure manufacturer to use multiple PROPLEX systems. First, there is an opportunity to work in several consumer segments, offering a wider product line. Secondly, all PROPLEX profile systems are designed in such a way as to minimize the inconvenience associated with the changeover of equipment when moving from one system to another.
In addition, both Optima, Premium, Balcony, Lux, and Comfort have the same fitting groove of the 12/20-9 system, which allows you to keep the fittings of one system in stock (for most PVC profile manufacturers, the five-chamber profile has a fitting groove of the system 12 /20-13). Also, in all systems, the same seals are used, reinforcing profiles (except for the PROPLEX-BALCONY system, for which a special reinforcing profile of the frame and sash was developed).
Many additional profiles can also be used for different systems (bay bay connection profile, bottom profile).
And as an additional argument in favor of PROPLEX windows, manufacturers can now use the fact that during regular tests at the certification body of the State Standard of Russia, the PROPLEX PVC profile received a new indicator of durability - a conditional service life of 60 years!
Source: https://www.proplex.ru/b2b/content/profil_i_komplektuyushchie/
PVC profile system
In this section, we will briefly describe the concepts profile system And profile series.
Profile system
A profile system should be understood as a set of joining or corresponding profiles that allow the manufacture of a variety of window and door structures.
Consider the minimum set of profiles that can be characterized as a profile system:
So, the profile system includes:
- Box profiles (frames).
In the system under consideration, window and door frames are presented. The door frame is larger in height, which is dictated by the need to have a higher structural statics. Also in the system there is a so-called "wide box", which was developed primarily for panel housing construction.
- sash profiles.
The system includes a window (for windows and balcony doors) and a door leaf (entrance and interior doors). The door leaf is larger in size, massive reinforcement is placed in it. In the corners, the door leaf is not only welded, special corner connectors are used for greater rigidity and reliability of the massive structure.
- Impost profile.
In this system, one type of impost profile is presented, which can be installed both in the frame and in the sashes (window and door).
- Glazing beads.
Depending on the required width of the insulating glass unit of the window structure, we can use different glazing beads. In this system, there are 3 types of them: for 32mm double-glazed windows, 24mm double-glazed windows, and for 1 glass.
- Bottom profile (stand profile).
The name of the profile defines its purpose. This type of profile is attached to the frame profile from the bottom of the window structure, we attach the ebb and window sill to the stand profile.
- Connecting strip (connecting profile).
Required for joining frames of two different designs. For example, windows and balcony doors.
- Corner connector 90gr.
Allows you to install structures at an angle of 90 degrees.
- Pipe and adapter to the pipe.
Allows you to install structures at any angle.
- Expander.
In some cases, the features of the opening or design necessitate the use of this profile.
- Shtulp.
It is used in the manufacture of window structures without impost
- "Balcony" series
- "Light" series
- "Standard" series
- "70s Series"
- "Elite" series
- "Dutch" series
- The so-called "balcony series".
If the Customer wants to make warm glazing of the balcony, then the best option would be glazing with hinged plastic structures with double-glazed windows. Frames and sashes of "balcony" series from different manufacturers can have 2 or 3 chambers, profiles are smaller in height and width. Examples of "balcony" series: Montblanc logic, Proplex-balcony
- "Lightweight" series (economy system) of window profiles.
Competition and struggle of window manufacturers for tender object orders led to the fact that profile manufacturers (in order to reduce costs) began to offer "light" series of profile systems. A distinctive feature of such series is the thinner outer walls of the profile (2.5-2.7 mm.), the lower height of the frame and sash. Typically, these series have 3 chambers.
Examples of "light" series: Montblanc eco 60, Plafen L-line, Schueco AS60
- "Standard Series"
The figure shows a 4-chamber system, some manufacturers offer 3-chamber systems. The thickness of the outer walls of "standard" systems is usually 3 mm. The width of frames and sashes of the "standard" series is 58-62mm.
Examples of "standard" series: Veka euroline, Thyssen AD,
- "Episode 70"
Many profile manufacturers offer such series, a distinctive feature of these series is the increased (up to 70-75mm) width of the frame and sash. Number of chambers 3-5.
Examples of the "70s" series: Proplex -Premium, Montblanc nord 70, Veka softline, Thyssen favorit, KBE expert.
- "Elite" series"
They are used for glazing elite objects, or if there are increased requirements for the thermal performance of profiles. Frame and sash width from 70 mm, number of chambers more than 5.
Examples of "elite" series: Veka TOPLINE Plus, Salamander 3D, Schueco Corona SI 82
- "Dutch Series"
These series are characterized by the presence of a "wide box (115-121 mm.). The series were developed primarily for prefabricated housing construction.
Examples of "Dutch" series: Montblanc city-120, Weltplast nord, KBE Extra.
- The window frame gives rigidity to the window block and ensures its fastening in the window opening.
- The sash, necessary for the window to have opening parts.
- Impost - designed to connect several sashes in the window structure, while each sash has the ability to open separately. Also, the impost is designed to connect two double-glazed windows or sandwich panels and double-glazed windows, depending on the design of the window.
- Shtulp - a profile designed to connect two sashes, differs from the impost in that one of the sashes turns out to be dependent on the other and does not have its own handle for opening, it opens together with the main sash. In this case, the dependent sash cannot be tilt-and-turn. Shtulpovy connection allows you to fully open the window opening.
- Additional (expansion profiles) - designed to expand the window with non-standard openings, in cases where the window opening creates an obstacle to the normal operation of the window frame hinge, or completely closes the frame profile.
- Connecting profile - designed to connect two window blocks into one block, or connect a window and door (balcony) block. Also, connecting profiles are used to create a corner connection of two window blocks and a connection with a supporting metal structure (for example, a pipe).
- The support profile is used for reliable installation of the window unit and fastening of the window sill and drainage to the window unit.
- The glazing bead is used to fix the double-glazed window in the window frame. A sealant made of soft PVC, EPDM, TEP is pulled along the length of the glazing bead. Recently, glazing beads with extruded PVC seals have been increasingly used.
We considered a system with a minimum set of profiles, many manufacturers offer a much larger number of profiles as part of the system (bay window 135 gr., various expanders, frames of different heights, etc.), but in practice these additional profiles are rarely used.
Series of window profiles
Each manufacturer of PVC window profiles seeks to expand the range of products offered, to occupy the market niches of "cheap window", "standard window", "elite window".
Conventionally, the types of PVC profiles on the market can be divided into groups:
Using the example of one of the manufacturers of plastic window profiles, we will compare profiles of different series:
The choice of the manufacturer of the profile system and the series of profiles on which the window production shop you open will work depends on who you plan to sell window structures to.
Normative documents.
GOST 30673-99. PVC profiles for window and door blocks. Specifications.
Source: http://www.promokna.ru/sistema-pvkh-profilej
Profiles used in the production of PVC windows
A window profile is a thin-walled hollow profile that has several air chambers separated by partitions, most often three air chambers: the main one for reinforcing the structure with a metal profile, a drainage one for draining water, and a chamber for attaching window fittings. A seal made of soft PVC, EPDM, TEP runs along the contour of the frame and sashes, providing sound, dust and heat insulation of the window. The following types of profiles are used in the window block:
Door leafs.
When installing window and door blocks, additional profiles are used, such as: restoration profile, flashing, cladding profile, decorative lining, etc. as a rule, they are intended for the implementation of architectural solutions, for aesthetic purposes and in order to protect the mounting foam from destruction under the action of UV radiation.
Trimmings of all types of profiles are subject to recyclingAndpurchased by the company"Polymer-Logistic"
Source: http://ppvh.ru/vidy_okonnyh_pvh_profiley.
Additional profiles for balcony windows
In the photo: extensions were used during the installation of the “window balcony”
Additional profiles play the role of additional reinforcing expansion joints, which must be installed in cases where it is not possible to bring the glazing frame to the edge of the wall or even in cases where it is necessary to connect a complex structure and give it maximum rigidity.
Source: https://www.elit-balkon.ru/okna-pvch/profil-okonnyj-dobornye-profili
Articles
The conciseness and simplicity of the external execution of plastic windows is deceptive, since it has a rather complex internal structure. The design of such a window is based on a PVC profile - this is the main load-bearing element, the frame, which ensures the rigidity, strength and durability of the product. In the previous article "Manufacturing PVC profile" talked about the main material and features of the production process. This material contains information about the varieties of PVC profiles.
Types of PVC profiles
Considering in more detail the design of the PVC profile, the first thing you pay attention to is the thickness and number of chambers. It is logical to assume that the wider the profile, the better the heat saving performance. However, it is not. A hollow profile, even if thicker, will be less "warm" in comparison with a thin, but multi-chamber design.
1. Number of air chambers
What are PVC profile cameras? Plastic windows are made of PVC profiles, consisting of one large reinforced chamber, which in turn is divided into several isolated chambers.
From this follows the first division of PVC profiles: by the number of air chambers.
On the territory of the Russian Federation, the GOST 30673-99 standard is in force, according to which it is determined that the number of air chambers in a profile for a plastic window cannot be less than 2. PVC window manufacturers today offer consumers designs with 3, 4, 5 and even 6 chambers.
But this does not mean that more cameras mean better window quality. The choice of plastic windows should always be based on a simple rule - the number of chambers should be sufficient to provide heat in given climatic conditions.
Do not overpay extra money for cameras you do not need at all.
What to order plastic windows in Tula?
The best plastic windows for buying in Tula, that is, in the temperate climate zone, is a 3-chamber PVC profile, the thermal insulation characteristics of which correspond to a brick wall 2 bricks thick. While 5-chamber profiles are recommended in the sharply continental, subarctic or arctic climatic zone.
2. Configuration, form, purpose
The next characteristics of PVC profiles that can be classified are the purpose, as well as the shape, size and configuration resulting from the purpose of the application. The window block uses several types of profiles:
- Window frame- the basis of the window block. Responsible for structural rigidity and fastening in the opening.
- sash- necessary for the installation of opening parts.
- door leaf- performs the function of opening door structures.
- Impost- a special type of profile responsible for connecting several leaves with the possibility of independent opening of each leaf. It is also used to connect double-glazed windows, sandwich panels.
- Shtulp- another connecting profile. Just like the impost, it is designed to connect the wings, but in this case one leaf depends on the other and is supplied without a handle.
- Extensions (extension profiles)- are used as expanders for non-standard configurations of the window opening.
- Connection profile- used as a connection of two independent window units or a connection of a balcony door with a window. Also used to create corner joints.
- Stand Profile- designed for a more reliable installation of a plastic window and high-quality fastening of window sills and drainage systems.
- Bead- a profile used to fix double-glazed windows in the frame.
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"
Components for PVC windows today are produced in such a wide range that you can only find two identical ones if they were made according to one project. Otherwise, a huge number of additional details will not only transform the design externally, but also significantly improve its functionality.
Naturally, in order to realize the full potential inherent in a plastic window, you need to know what components are, and what you need to pay attention to when choosing them. Yes, it's hard to figure it out - and that's where this article will come in handy. In it, I collected basic information about additional elements that can be used to expand the capabilities of a window design.
window accessory system
First of all, we need to define the subject of our discussion. There is no consensus among specialists in the window industry regarding the interpretation of the term, so I will give both definitions used:
- According to one point of view, components for windows are those parts that are not directly included in the design of the window. That is, only that which is not a part of the frame, sash, double-glazed window or fittings is included here.
- On the other hand, many experts in the window industry define window accessories as a set of elements, the installation of which is possible after the manufacture / installation of the structure. In this case, the list of parts expands primarily due to fittings - if necessary, it can be “upgraded” by adding the necessary parts.
Spare parts for plastic windows are installed not quite simply, but without dismantling the structure itself. Maximum - you have to remove the sash, but if you have the skill, this task does not cause any particular difficulties.
Each manufacturer classifies components for PVC windows as it suits him. Therefore, there is no single system here. And yet, for the convenience of description, I will single out several groups:
- fittings that provide more efficient ventilation;
- fittings that expand the functionality of the sash;
- elements that increase the burglary resistance of the structure;
- parts of the mounting unit - window sills, ebbs, flashings, etc.
- third-party structures that are attached to the window - mosquito nets, blinds, valves, etc.
- plastic spare parts for plastic windows - purely decorative little things like linings for hinges, plugs for drainage holes and other things.
Each item on this list (except, perhaps, the last one) deserves a separate and rather careful review. Below I will briefly describe which components for windows you can choose, and most importantly - what opportunities their installation opens up for you.
Hardware complex
Room ventilation
To begin with, we analyze those components of the window that provide effective ventilation. Three types of additional parts can be used here:
- Microventilation is a small switch that is built into the fittings and allows you to slightly open the sash by a few millimeters when you turn the handle at an angle of 450. Setting the window to micro-ventilation is used to provide a "background" air flow.
- Step-by-step ventilation is provided either by installing a gear part of the fittings (mounted in the same place as micro-ventilation), or by a plastic comb, which is placed next to the handle. Allows you to adjust the size of the gap between the frame and the sash from slot to the most efficient ventilation.
- Two-position ventilation is a special module that is used in some fitting systems (for example, "winter-summer" in Siegenia Aubi Favorit). It allows you to set the size of the gap between the open sash and the frame once a season: in winter this gap is made smaller, in summer it is larger.
- Window accessories, which act as ventilation regulators, work effectively only on sashes, the design of which provides for a tilt mode.
- You can install only one of these parts - either micro-ventilation or step ventilator.
The exception is the combination of micro-ventilation and an external comb - they can be put together (although it is not entirely clear why). Also, some systems allow you to combine a two-position ventilator with a step-by-step system. But again, it's like wearing both a belt and suspenders at the same time.
Additional modules
There are other accessories for plastic windows included in the hardware complex. I would highlight these:
- Microlift - either a lever that is placed opposite the window handle, or a small roller fixed at the bottom of the sash. Provides lifting of the sash when closing, eliminates distortion and reduces the load on the handle. It is indispensable for heavy and wide sashes - it will become more and more difficult to close the window over time without a microlift, as it will begin to sag under its own weight.
- An erroneous action blocker is an extremely useful element, first of all, for older people who are not very confident with plastic windows. It does not allow to put on ventilation an incompletely closed sash, which avoids hanging the sash on one hinge. For ordinary windows, maybe not needed, but for a balcony door - just right!
- The opening limiter is a small lever that prevents the sash from swinging open to its full extent under the influence of a gust of wind. By installing this addition, we protect slopes, flowers on the windowsill, and the double-glazed window from damage.
- The opening latch is, in fact, an improved limiter. Controlled by turning the handle, allows you to fix the sash in the open position at any angle.
By the way, the latch is one of the few additional parts that I would not recommend installing with your own hands. For its correct operation, connection to the fittings drive is required. So if you are not sure that you know where it is, let a specialist put the part better.
- A child lock is a detail that will not be superfluous on any of the window structures. Mounted on the bottom of the frame. In the closed position, it fixes the sash so that it can be folded back for ventilation, but it cannot be opened. It is necessary in almost any apartment located above the first floor.
These locks are locked with a key. So this key is very important not to leave in the lock for the sake of convenience!
- Handle - included in the original design, but can be replaced with a more advanced model. Most often, designer handles are used for replacement, which are in harmony with the appearance of the window and with the interior in the room.
Another direction is connected with an increase in the level of security: a lock-block can be built in inside the handle (then a separate child lock can be omitted) or an anti-burglary mechanism. In the latter case, the gear system blocks attempts to turn the handle from the outside when the sash is pressed or the lock is drilled.
Mounting assembly
Window sills and other
Other accessories for windows are components of the mounting assembly. These include the following details:
- Additional profiles - stand, connecting, expansion, etc. They are used for more efficient docking of the structure with the window opening, as well as for connecting several windows to each other. A typical example of such profiles is the base strip, on which up to 90% of all windows are mounted, a balcony connector (placed at the junction of a door and a large window), as well as a bay window that allows you to mount windows at an angle.
- Window sills - horizontal, which are placed at the bottom of the window inside the room. The window sill performs not only a decorative function - it also covers the mounting gap, and also acts as a surface suitable for setting flowers, etc. The cheapest are plastic window sills, the most expensive are parts made of stone and solid wood (the price can reach several thousand per linear meter).
- Drainage drains - inclined strips that are mounted on the outside of the window and are used to remove moisture flowing down the frame and double-glazed window from the mounting seam. The ebbs are made of galvanized metal, and the outside is covered with polymer paint in the color of the window profile. These components are classified as linear products, i.e. they are not made to the size of the structure, but are cut from long blanks either at the factory when completing the window, or directly at the installation site.
When installing the ebb, the instruction recommends fixing it with self-tapping screws either to the bottom of the frame, or (more often) to the stand profile. At the same time, it is desirable to lay a porous material under the ebb (PSUL, foam rubber, a thin layer of foam) - then it will not rattle and vibrate strongly during gusts of wind.
- Flashings - are made of the same material as the ebbs, but are installed not on the lower part of the opening, but on the side junctions. They are used for the most effective sealing of the mounting assembly: if you fix a thin metal strip on the outside, and blow out self-expanding foam from the inside, then blowing through the gap will be minimized.
- Sloping panels - in fact, the same flashings, but designed for mounting from the inside. They are plastic profiles with a wide flat part, which forms the window slope. On one or both sides of the panel there are F-shaped latches designed for docking with the window and finishing materials.
The use of such panels is optional: the slopes can be both plastered and sheathed with drywall sheets with subsequent finishing.
Everything that can be hung on the structure
Separate components for windows, which are installed on any structure, are also presented in an extremely wide range. You can combine them in almost any way, since they are not part of the window.
The list of such details includes:
- Mosquito nets are structures that are an aluminum frame with a stretched mesh fabric. The mesh is attached to the window frame or sash using various devices (pockets, plungers, flags, etc.), protecting the opening from insects and sometimes dust.
To protect against dust and pollen from plants, you need a canvas with a minimum hole diameter - the so-called “anti-dust” design.
- A separate group of products is made up of anti-cat nets, which prevent pets from falling out of the window and unwanted guests from outside (also relevant, especially for residents of the private sector). The “antikoshka” differs from ordinary mosquito nets in a canvas of increased strength and more reliable fastening. Of course, she will not delay mosquitoes, but a fluffy projectile weighing up to 5 kg, flying at a decent speed, will stop.
- Blinds - the most common design that allows you to adjust the intensity of lighting. Horizontal ones are most often made of aluminum plates, vertical ones are made of fabric that has undergone special processing.
Blinds are mounted either on the upper part of the frame (common for the entire window), or on the upper crossbar (separate for each opening). The second option seems preferable to me: it is not necessary to assemble the blinds when opening the sash in a folding position, and even more so in a rotary position.
- Roller blinds are another type of structure used to adjust the light output. A typical curtain is a fabric sheet that is fixed at the top of the window using a special roller mechanism. If necessary, the canvas is untwisted and fixed on the bottom of the frame or sash using simple hooks or a load.
- Ventilation dampers are quite complex components for windows, which are installed to ensure a stable supply of fresh air. The operation of the valve is regulated either mechanically, using a special switch, or automatically, due to a moisture-sensitive element. The use of such a device allows you not to ventilate the room, which is especially valuable in winter.
It is important here that when the ventilation valve is operating, the air enters the room in small portions, and through the hole in the upper part, i.e. in the warm area of the room. Due to this, discomfort is minimized, which, with “classic” ventilation, would inevitably arise due to hypothermia.
Conclusion
As you can understand from this article, window accessories are very different - from purely decorative to quite functional. Competent selection and proper use of additional details can significantly expand the possibilities of the window both in terms of effective ventilation and in terms of increasing burglary resistance.
If you are interested in this topic, and you want to choose elements for your window, I would recommend that you further study the video in this article. And all the questions that arise after reading and viewing, voice in the comments - I will definitely try to help you with useful advice!
November 22, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!
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