Water leakage alarm. DIY Water Leak Prevention Sensor

Even if high-quality and expensive materials were used during the installation of the water supply system, and qualified specialists equipped the highway, this is not a guarantee that an accident will not occur.

To reduce the risk of leakage, at potentially dangerous places (pipe joints, turning points, near fittings, under flexible hoses, in places where household appliances are installed, under a siphon), leakage protection is installed. This device, in the event of an accident, shuts off the water supply.

According to statistics, 87% of accidents are associated with water leakage in pipe lines.

There is leakage protection. In the article, we will review water leakage protection systems from well-known manufacturers.

If the apartment is small, then you won’t have to think about the installation location of the sensors for a long time. Mounted on taps. And if the system is complex for installation, you need to prepare thoroughly and think through everything.

The protection system works very simply. As soon as water enters the sensor, it detects a leak, the control unit gives a command and the ball valves shut off the water supply. This will not protect against leakage completely, but will significantly reduce its amount, which will help to avoid a flood and subsequent costs for repairing a home and household appliances.

Consider the main manufacturers:

• Aquastozhor
• Neptune
• hydrolock

Advantages and disadvantages

Names	pros	minuses
Neptune	Good torque indicator. The system allows manual opening/closing.	The main drawback is the temperature regime of 5-40. When there is a power outage, there is no offline mode.
hydrolock	Stepper collector (brushless). High torque. Optical detection of the position of the crane. Maximum number of openings/closings. Battery base. A large number of connected cranes. 8 control zones. Ability to connect wired sensors up to 200, wireless 100 (for comparison, this function is either absent in other models, or allows a small number) Just a huge battery life.	Not found
Aquaguard	High tap closing speed.	Not a convenient method for determining the position of the crane. Open/Close less than 10,000. The power supply is not waterproof.

Features of choice

Add-ons

The Aquastrozh anti-leakage system is equipped with a non-full bore ball valve. The difference lies in the smaller diameter (1mm) - this will seriously affect deposits in the pipe and faucet, which in the end can lead to an early failure of the system.

• Protective system against leaks "Aquastorage" has the movement of water in one direction. Changing the movement will lead to a significant decrease in resource.
• Ionistors and batteries cannot support the operation of more than one electric faucet.
• The Neptune system cannot be installed without an electrical outlet.
• Gidrolock does not have a manual control function.

What to look for when buying a leak protection system

How many floor sensors will be required

Depends on the complexity of the plumbing system and the number of connected household appliances:

1. Neptune can connect 20
2. Aquaguard 60
3. Gidrolock up to 200 wired sensors

The need to function offline

And the period of work in this mode.

Leak protection Gidrolock works up to 24 years, no system is able to compete with it.

System Reliability

Manufacturing material. Sensor protection. The sensitivity of the sensors.

The best material is Bugatti hot forged brass.

If the sensors are particularly sensitive, then it is good when protection is installed, otherwise it can be triggered by every drop that falls on it.

Other criteria

If we evaluate these three systems on a 5-point scale, based on consumer feedback:

1. Aquaguard - 3 points
2. Neptune - 4 points
3. Hydrolock - 5 points.

The advantages of the system are:

• The presence of a protection complex of 3 elements: 3 batteries of type C, a 5 V AC adapter, a built-in battery. The battery is used when there is a power outage or the batteries are exhausted.
• The system is completely autonomous.
• Its warranty is 4 years.
• Management and use of it does not require special knowledge and skills.
• The system is designed for simultaneous operation with 6 cranes.

Valves are installed on cold pipes and immediately after the inlet valves to the apartment. The rest of the equipment - filters, meters, is mounted after them.

A wired system costs between $170 and $330. If the wireless option is chosen, then it increases to 350 - 415 dollars.

Other options for protection systems

The choice of systems is not limited to the two most popular. If desired, you can find other similar devices.

For example, HYDROLOCK system also reliable enough to protect premises of various types. It has a standard design. In the event of a leak, the control unit will not only stop it, but also emit a characteristic sound signal.

The control unit can be equipped with the following functions:

• control of open circuit of sensors;
• battery level control;
• weekly self-cleaning of ball channels.

The cost of a kit can range from $130 to $780.

System "Stop Flood "Rainbow" does not require laying wires, the sensors work on a radio signal.

Leakage protection is due to the operation of a solenoid valve that shuts off the water supply.

In this system, it is possible to increase the number of control sensors and. The response time of the equipment is 7 - 10 s.

The system has other advantages:

• functioning on a radio signal, it does not affect the operation of other equipment in any way;
• the operation of the equipment does not depend on the mains, it is equipped with batteries;
• There is a self-diagnosis system.

The cost of a complete kit for cold and hot water risers is about $300.

How the devices that make up the system work

Leak sensor is a (rarely metal) container equipped with two sensitive contacts. The contact surface has anti-corrosion coating.

Touching the sensor is not dangerous, as it is connected to a safe power source.

The sensor works like this: water, being an electrical conductor, closes the contacts, the resistance between them drops sharply, which for the controller is a signal of leakage. When small splashes hit, the sensor does not work.

Wireless sensors are completely autonomous and can be installed anywhere. But at the same time, the controller cannot check the operability of the sensor.

Wired sensors are constantly under, which makes it possible to continuously monitor their performance controller.

The sensor can be installed in two ways:

• Cut into the floor in those places where water accumulation is most likely (protrusion above the floor level 3 - 4 mm). In this case, the devices are installed with the contact plates up, and the wire is connected to them using a corrugated tube.
• If insertion is not possible, then the device is placed directly on the floor, turning the contact plates down. The contacts do not touch the floor, as there are dot protrusions on the body of the device. This prevents false alarms from water droplets.

Once every three months, the sensor plates must be wiped.

Controller mounted in a place convenient for notifying the owners of a leak and making it possible to maintain the device. If the system is wired, then the control unit should be located near the sensors, but in such a way that water does not get on the case.

The controller and the solenoid valve must be powered through the RCD.

Executive devices can be of two types:

• blocking water;
• signaling a leak (buzzers, sirens, SMS).

It is clear that only giving a signal does not solve the problem, so it is better if the system is equipped with devices that block the water. These can be solenoid valves or motorized ball valves.

Solenoid valves very sensitive to the purity of water, so they put between them and the valve. They require a constant supply of electricity, so such systems need to be supplied with additional power sources that turn on when there is no power.

Ball Valves can be removed from the controller at most. Than 100 m. They obey only the command given from the control unit.

The bodies of these devices are made of stainless steel or chrome-plated brass. The valve is driven by a brushless electric drive, which consumes energy only during the closing - opening of the ball valve. When the signal is triggered, the closing speed of the valve is calculated so as to exclude the development of water hammer.

Ball valves can be powered both from the central electrical network and from an additional power source. Some systems have a "technical check" function, which is designed to keep the cranes in working order. At the same time, once a week, at the command of the controller, the valves turn at an angle of 3 to 5 degrees, which makes it possible to prevent the ball from becoming overgrown with salt and dirt deposits.

It is best that leaks be installed by specialists who are familiar with the process and features of installation in various rooms, but you can do it yourself.

If such a decision is made, then the following order of installation of the system elements should be followed:

1. the first install the automation unit;
2. then mount the shut-off valves;
3. after that they put control sensors and connect them to the control unit;
4. connect the electric drive of locking devices to the controller;
5. testing the operation of the system.

With all the seeming simplicity of installation, it must be remembered that this will require the modernization of the in-house water supply system. And to do this, you need certain knowledge and skills, as well as a tool. If you have not done such things before, then it is not worth the risk. Otherwise, you will cause a flood even before the protective system is installed.

The third of which says that the robot must take care of its safety to the extent that this does not contradict the First and Second Laws. Those. one of the tasks of a smart home is to take care of its safety, to prevent break-ins, fires, floods, and other damage. We'll talk about protection against leaks and flooding today.

Aquawatch is a system that automatically shuts off the water when flooding is detected. A pipe has burst - water splashes onto the floor, hits the sensor, and the servo drive shuts off the taps on the risers. Of course, this will not save you from wet floors - some of the water will still end up on the floor, but the repair will secure it, and at the same time it will protect neighbors below from compensation after flooding. Let's see, let's disassemble the Aquaguard system into parts and find out if it is so good?

Controller

The whole set is in this box:

The kit is shown in front, and the principle of the system is shown on the side:


There is also a good and understandable written user manual:


The main part of the system looks like this:


Two taps - for cold and hot water, main control unit, flood sensors, external power supply.
Here is the main unit (TK03) closer:


The controller is made very interesting - it is assembled as a constructor, into which additional extension blocks are inserted. Missing 6 wire sensors? We add a panel, we get 18 sensors. Want to make a wireless system out of a conventional system? We insert the radio base and connect it to a special connector. Need the ability to turn off the heating or pump when the water is turned off? We connect the panel with power relays. Not enough standard battery pack? We insert another one, we extend the autonomous operation of the system for another year (if the system has only wired sensors, then for three years).
The entire system, except for wired sensors, has a 4-year warranty. Sensors have a lifetime warranty. True, they promise a free replacement of no more than 3 sensors per user, apparently guided by the consideration "if a person breaks 3 sensors in a row, then the problem is not in the sensors."
There are four sensors in my version - two wired, and two radio sensors. The system can simultaneously work with both. The maximum number of wireless sensors is 8 (2 included), or 20 with an expander panel (TK19). The number of wired sensors is practically unlimited - up to 100 pieces can be connected to each connector, in total - as many as 600 pieces.
There is a page on the site that describes all possible components with article numbers - in the future I will give them in brackets for convenience.
A very interesting solution. Here is the block connection mechanism, on one side of the latch:


On the other - a place for wires that connect the blocks to each other:


We disassemble. Although it is difficult to call it disassembly - we just pull the board out of the slots:


Controller, squeaker (very loud and nasty):


Two ionistors for 20F:


And one for 10:


These are the same Nano-UPS :)


But in fact, it’s right - they store a supply of energy, which is enough to operate the device and shut off the taps after the batteries are completely dead. In general, if an accident occurs, the system will work and shut off the water even with dead batteries. After that, you can still open the taps once with the button if you urgently need water, and there is no time to run after the batteries - this moment is thought out, which is nice. But after that, the batteries will have to be replaced.
Below on the board are 14 connectors, one of which is for the battery pack, one for connecting the blocks, 6 for wired sensors, and 6 for taps. As I already wrote - there can be an almost unlimited number of wired sensors - they can be connected in parallel to each other. True, when using a sensor with break control, it must be the last in the chain - otherwise the controller will not notice the break after it.

Cranes

Here are two taps(TK12):


On each - a strict piece of paper :)


We disassemble the crane into two parts:


Crane side:


A serious metal gear closing a ball valve. In the first versions, it was plastic, but they fixed this shortcoming. From the engine side:


Also a metal gear of the gearbox output shaft (a device that reduces the rotation speed and increases the force). Everything looks serious. Cranes, by the way, are also special - with low friction, to make it easier to turn the crane with a small engine. It closes really easily - you can turn your finger without really straining. Other systems have faucets with a motor that is powered by 220v, but there is another problem - safety and the inability to turn off the faucet when the power goes out. And according to Murphy's law, electricity will be cut down at the most inopportune moment. So I'd rather pay a little more for a faucet with a low voltage motor.

Sensor

Wired flood sensor (TK24), as simple as two pennies:


Wire, case, and fiberglass plate with two contacts. The contacts get wet - the resistance decreases, the controller understands this and shuts off the water. There is nothing to break here - the contacts are covered with immersion gold, which means they will not oxidize or rot.
Contact pads:


This is a "premium" sensor, and in simple terms - with wire break protection. The problem is that for the controller, a failed “normal” sensor and a sensor whose wire was cut off are the same thing. Protection against this is a simple capacitor:


It conducts alternating current, and by its presence the controller can already determine three states - a short circuit (flood), no short circuit (sensor in place), and no contact (wire break).
The sensor is very simple, and if you have straight arms, you can make them as much as you like for your needs - even a PCB LUT, even from two strips of a tin can and wire. Just take care of protection against splashes - otherwise one day during the shower you will be forced to get out of the bath and explain to the controller that this is not a flood, but just a drop fell :) But I'm talking about a home-made sensor - for "branded" the case design provides protection against accidental splashes . In addition, they will only work if the water level reaches 1mm over the entire area of ​​the sensor - this is approximately 10-15ml of water.

Radio base and sensors

An additional unit (TK17), which adds several wireless sensors to the usual sensors. There are two of them in the kit, but you can buy and add 6 more - they are tied to this block. And another 12 sensors are connected to the expansion unit (TK19). As a result, the total number of wireless sensors is 20 pieces. I don't know why so many, except for some big cottage.
The radio base board has its own personal ionistor so as not to waste the energy of the main board on servicing radio sensors.


Controller, and one more tweeter:

And here are the radio sensors:


The right one is just a sensor (TK16) and the left one is a remote control sensor (TK18). Buttons can be used to close and open taps at any time.
On the reverse side of both sensors, we already know a board with contacts:


The sensor is disassembled quite simply - you need to take turns prying off the central part from all sides with a flat screwdriver. It is held very firmly - as I understand it, it is made from the penetration of water.


By the way, a sensor with a button is the same as a sensor without a button, only with a button:


So if your hands itch and the soldering iron heats up, you can attach a button - I checked that the contacts work.
On the reverse side of the board - contacts for batteries (2xAAA):


Controller, harness and tweeter:

Assembly

We begin to assemble the system according to our requirements. Adding a second battery pack:


Simply insert the wires into the empty sockets of the connector:


And connect the two blocks together:


We take the radio base:


Turn off the additional sensor unit and connect the radio base:


Connecting batteries:


And putting it all together:


Constructor. By the way, we forgot to connect the taps and the wired sensor. And external power, if necessary - when using it, battery power is not wasted, and wireless sensors are polled constantly. When using battery power, the reaction to pressing a button on the wireless sensor or flooding it follows with a small delay - from 1 to 5 seconds.

Installation

First, we do the simplest thing - we fasten the mounting panel with two screws:


And we hang a controller on it:


We disassemble the cranes:


I did this for ease of installation on an already finished system, because the engine protruded too much - it was not very convenient to mount.
We wrap the thread of the tap with fumlent:


We turn off the water, and we think where to insert the tap, so much so as not to call a plumber to rebuild the entire system?
I have some free space after the counter - where the check valve is. Look at the bottom pipe (I did not remove the process of installing a hot water tap):


We unscrew what you have unscrewed. We see a free thread - we wrap it with fumlent :)


We screw the valve onto the faucet:


And we wind this whole structure back onto the counter.


We cut off the connecting pipe - the crane took its place, why not move all the other pipes for the sake of it?


And install in place:


We fasten the engine into place and put the wires in order:

We simply put radio sensors in places of possible flooding:


We lead the wire through a hole in the wall (it was necessary to cut the wire, and then connect it with adhesive tape):


We lower the wire down:


We fasten the platform to the floor, install the sensor itself:


And close the lid:


The sensors are located around the apartment like this:


One is under the sink, the other is under the washing machine. Wired sensor - under the bathroom. The plan was drawn in SweetHome 3D

Connect the wires to the controller:


Green - sensor. In the first connector (it is signed as zero) - only the sensor (or a chain of sensors) is turned on without wire break control. The rest of the connectors are sensors with open circuit monitoring.
Blue arrow - tap connectors. There is no difference, they all close and open the same way. Lilac and yellow - external and battery power, respectively. Blue - expansion board connector (we have a radio base connected to it).
In general, the system after installation looks like this:


It remains only to comb the wires so that they do not hang over your head.

Examination

I did not break the pipe, but I had to figure out a small flood in the bathroom:

Price

You can buy the system on the official website.
The price depends on the kit, for example, the cheapest one (TH00) will cost you 6,220 rubles. It includes two wired sensors and one faucet. An additional crane (TK12) is another 2,390 rubles. Thus, the most budget solution for an apartment with hot and cold water is 8610 rubles.
The version of the system that I had will cost 15,990 rubles. Includes two cranes, and four sensors - two wired and two radios.

Links

Review by AlexeyNadezhin
Official site
offsite mirror
System suppliers in Belarus
Overview of the old version of the system from DataLab
Discussion on IXBT

If you do not have an account on Habrahabr, you can read and comment on our articles on the site

Water is life. If it is in a tap, or in a heating radiator, this is good. And if it is on the floor of your apartment, or on the ceiling of a neighbor from below, this is a big financial and moral trouble. Of course, it is necessary to regularly check the water supply and heating system for corrosion or cracks in plastic pipes. However, a water breakthrough usually occurs suddenly, with no signs of impending danger. Well, if at this moment you are at home, and do not sleep. But, according to the law of meanness, leaks occur just at night, or when you are not at home.

Simple rules for dealing with this problem (especially for old housing stock, with worn out networks):

• Regularly inspect water pipes and elements of the heating system for defects, pitting, leaks, etc.
• When leaving home, close the inlet valve on the riser.
• Outside the heating season, close the taps on the batteries (if any).
• Use a leak protection system.

Let's take a closer look at the last item on the list.

How to signal a water leak

The solution to the issue came to life from the yachting world. Since the ship's premises of the lower tier (especially the holds) are below the waterline, water regularly accumulates in them. The consequences are clear, the question is how to deal with it. It is irrational to set up a separate watch sailor for control. Then who will give the command to turn on the pump?

There are effective tandems: a water presence sensor and an automatic pump. As soon as the sensor detects the filling of the hold, the pump motor turns on and pumping is performed.

The water sensor is nothing more than a simple swivel float connected to a pump switch. When the water level rises by 1-2 cm, the alarm and the pump motor are activated at the same time.

Conveniently? Yes. Safely? Of course. However, such a system is unlikely to be suitable for a residential building.

• Firstly, if the water reaches a level of 1–2 cm over the entire area of ​​​​the room, it will run through the threshold of the front door to the landing (not to mention the neighbors below).
• Secondly, an exhaust pump is completely unnecessary, since it is necessary to immediately find and localize the cause of the breakthrough.
• Thirdly, the float system for rooms with a flat floor is inefficient (unlike boats with a keeled bottom shape). While the “necessary” level for triggering is reached, the house will fall apart from dampness.

Therefore, a more sensitive alarm system against leaks is needed. This is a matter of sensors, and the executive part can be of two types:

1. Alarm only. It can be light, sound, or even connected to a GSM network. In this case, you will receive a signal on your mobile phone, and you will be able to call the emergency team remotely.

2. Turning off the water supply (unfortunately, this design does not work with the heating system, only plumbing). After the main valve, which supplies water from the riser to the apartment (it does not matter, before or after the meter), a solenoid valve is installed. When a signal is given from the sensor, the water is blocked, and further flood stops.

Naturally, the water shutdown system also signals a problem in any of the above ways. These devices are offered in a wide range of plumbing stores. It would seem that the material damage from the flood is potentially higher than the price of peace. However, the majority of citizens live by the principle "until the thunder breaks out, the peasant will not cross himself." And more progressive (and prudent) homeowners make a water leakage sensor with their own hands.

The principle of operation of leakage sensors

Speaking of the block diagram - everything is very simple. A certain element fixes the liquid at the point of its placement, and sends a signal to the executive module. Which, depending on the settings, can give light or sound signals, and (or) give a command to close the valve.

How sensors are arranged

We will not consider the float mechanism, since at home it is not effective. Everything is simple there: the base is fixed to the floor, a float is suspended on a hinge, which closes the contacts of the switch when it rises. A similar principle (only mechanical) is used in the toilet bowl.

The most commonly used contact sensor, which uses the natural ability of water to conduct electricity.

Of course, this is not a full-fledged switch through which a voltage of 220 volts passes. A sensitive circuit is connected to two contact plates (see illustration), which detects even a small current. The sensor can be separate (as in the photo above), or built into a common housing. This solution is used on mobile stand-alone sensors powered by a battery or accumulator.

If you do not have a smart home system, and water is supplied without any solenoid valves, it is the simplest sensor with an audible alarm that can be used as a starting option.

Homemade sensor of the simplest design

Despite the primitiveness, the sensor is quite effective. This model attracts home craftsmen with a penny cost of radio components, and the ability to assemble literally “on the knee”.

The base element (VT1) is an NPN transistor of the BC515 series (517, 618 and the like). It supplies power to the buzzer (B1). This is the simplest ready-made buzzer with a built-in generator, which can be purchased for a penny, or soldered from some old electrical appliance. Power is required on the order of 9 volts (specifically for this circuit). There are options for 3 or 12 volt batteries. In our case, a Krona-type battery is used.

How the scheme works

The secret is in the sensitivity of the collector-to-base transition. As soon as the minimum current begins to flow through it, the emitter opens and power is supplied to the sound element. There is a squeak. An LED can be connected in parallel, adding a visual signal.

The signal for the opening of the collector transition is given by the very water, the presence of which must be signaled. Electrodes are made of non-corrosive metal. It can be two pieces of copper wire that can simply be tinned. On the connection point diagram: (Electrodes).

You can assemble such a sensor on a breadboard.

Then the device is placed in a plastic box (possibly in a soap dish), in the bottom of which holes are made. It is desirable that if water gets in, it does not touch the circuit board. If you want aesthetics, the printed circuit board can be etched.

The disadvantage of such a sensor is different sensitivity to different types of water. For example, distillate from a leaking air conditioner may go unnoticed.

Based on the concept: an inexpensive stand-alone device, it cannot be integrated into a single security system for your home, even a home-made one.

More complex circuit, with sensitivity control

The cost of such a scheme is also minimal. It is performed on the KT972A transistor.

The principle of operation is similar to the previous version, with one difference. The generated signal about the presence of leakage (after the opening of the emitter junction of the transistor), instead of a signaling device (LED or sound element), is fed to the relay winding. Any low-current device, such as RES 60, will do. The main thing is that the supply voltage of the circuit matches the characteristics of the relay. And already from its contacts, information can be submitted to the actuator: the "smart home" system, alarm system, GSM transmitter (to a mobile phone), emergency solenoid valve.

An additional advantage of this design is the ability to adjust the sensitivity. With the help of a variable resistor, the current of the collector-base junction is regulated. You can adjust the response threshold from the appearance of dew or condensate, to the full immersion of the sensor (contact plate) in water.

Leakage sensor on the LM7555 chip

This radio element is an analogue of the LM555 microcircuit, only with lower energy consumption parameters. Information about the presence of moisture comes from the contact pad, indicated in the illustration as a "sensor":

To increase the response threshold, it is better to make it in the form of a separate plate connected to the main circuit with wires with minimal resistance.

The best option in the photo:

If you do not want to spend money on buying such a "limit switch", you can etch it yourself. Just be sure to tin the contact tracks to increase corrosion resistance.

As soon as water appears between the tracks, the plate becomes a closed conductor. An electric current begins to flow through the comparator built into the microcircuit. The voltage quickly rises to the threshold, and the transistor opens (which acts as a key). The right side of the diagram is the command and executive part. Depending on the implementation, the following happens:

1. Top diagram. A signal is triggered on the so-called "boozer" (tweeter), and the optionally connected LED lights up. There is another use case: several sensors are combined into a single parallel circuit with a common buzzer, and the LEDs remain on each block. When a sound signal is triggered, you will accurately determine (by emergency glow) which block has worked.
2. Bottom diagram. The signal from the sensor goes to the electromagnetic emergency valve located on the water supply riser. In this case, the water shuts off automatically, localizing the problem. If you are not at home at the time of the accident, the flood will not happen, material losses will be minimal.

Information: Of course, you can also make a shut-off valve with your own hands. However, this complex device is best purchased ready-made.

The circuit can be made according to the PCB layout, which is equally suitable for both LM7555 and LM555. The device is powered by 5 volts.

Important! The power supply must be galvanically isolated from 220 volts so that dangerous voltage does not fall into a puddle of water during a leak.

In fact, the ideal option is to use a charger from an old mobile phone.

The cost of such a homemade product does not exceed 50–100 rubles (for the purchase of parts). If you have an old element base in stock, you can reduce costs to zero.

The body is up to you. With such a compact size, finding a suitable box is not difficult. The main thing is that from the common board to the contact plate of the sensor, the distance should be no more than 1 meter.

General principles for the placement of leakage sensors

Any owner of the premises (residential or office) knows where the water supply or heating communications pass. There are not so many potential leak points:

• stopcocks, mixers;
• couplings, tees (especially for propylene pipes, which are connected by soldering);
• inlet pipes and flanges of the toilet bowl, washing machine or dishwasher, flexible hoses of kitchen faucets;
• connection points for metering devices (water meters);
• heating radiators (can flow both over the entire surface and at the junction with the main).

Of course, ideally, the sensors should be located under these devices. But then there may be too many of them, even for the option of self-production.

In fact, 1-2 sensors per potentially dangerous room are enough. If it is a bathroom, or a toilet - as a rule, there is a sill of the front door. In this case, water is collected, as in a pan, the layer can reach 1–2 cm, until the liquid spills over the threshold. In this case, the installation location is not critical, the main thing is that the sensor does not interfere with moving around the room.

In the kitchen, sensors are installed on the floor under the sink, behind the washing machine or dishwasher. If a leak occurs, it first forms a puddle in which the alarm will go off.

In other rooms, the device is installed under heating radiators, since water supply pipes are not laid through the bedroom or living room.

It will not be superfluous to install the sensor in a niche along which pipeline and sewer risers pass.

The most critical points of water breakthrough

With uniform working pressure, the risk of leakage is minimal. The same applies to faucets and faucets, if you open (close) the water smoothly. The weak point of the pipeline system manifests itself during water hammer:

• the valve for supplying water to the washing machine, when closed, creates a pressure that is 2–3 times the nominal water supply;
• the same, but to a lesser extent, applies to the closing fittings of the toilet bowl;
• heating radiators (as well as the places of their connection to the system) often do not withstand the test pressing, which is carried out by heat supply companies.

How to place sensors correctly

The contact plate should be located as close as possible to the floor surface without touching it. Optimal distance: 2–3 mm. If the contacts are placed directly on the floor, permanent false alarms due to condensation will occur. Long distance reduces the effectiveness of protection. 20-30 millimeters of water is already a problem. The sooner the sensor is triggered, the lower the loss.

reference Information

Regardless of whether a leak protection system is purchased in a store or made by hand, you need to know the uniform standards for its operation.

Device classification

• By the number of secondary protective devices at the facility (stop emergency valves with electromagnetic drive). Leak sensors should not block all water supply if the shut-off systems are separated by consumers. Only the line on which a leak is detected is localized.
• According to the method of submitting information about the accident of the water supply (heating system). Local signaling involves the presence of people at the facility. Remotely transmitted information is organized taking into account the prompt arrival of the owner or repair team. Otherwise, it is useless.
• Notification method: local sound or light alarm (on each sensor), or information output to a single remote control.
• Protection against false positives. As a rule, finely tuned sensors work more efficiently.
• Mechanical or electrical protection. An example of mechanics is the Aqua Stop system on the supply hoses of washing machines. There is no alarm on such devices, the scope is limited. Self-manufacturing is not possible.

Conclusion

Having spent a little time and a minimum of funds, you can protect yourself from serious financial problems associated with a flood in the apartment.

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general review

Many of us are concerned about the problem of possible water leakage. Someone, perhaps, has already encountered very, very unpleasant consequences if a washing machine leaked, a pipe broke or a sink clogged.
How many problems it has added to you and your neighbors!
The purpose of this article is to help deal with modern leak protection systems, to help protect your home and yourself from unpleasant consequences.

So let's get started. To date, the most popular leak protection systems are represented by such brands as "Hydrolock", "Aquaguard", "Neptune".
Each system has its advantages and disadvantages, let's try to figure out which of these systems is "better" and suitable for you.
Let's analyze all the advantages and disadvantages.

We inform you right away that the cost of each of the systems is much lower than the damage that a flood can cause in your apartment, the consequences of the flood can be long-term and, in addition to financial and moral troubles, lead to such consequences as the appearance of black mold - a very harmful phenomenon for health, behind which must be monitored, especially if there are small children in the house.

Leak protection systems

Consider the possibilities of leakage protection systems
- Blocking the leak, in case of failure of the tap, pipe break
- detection of water on the floor
- notification of the owner via SMS and sound signal
- possibility of remote work with the system through the control panel
- ensuring the operation of the system in the event of an emergency power outage

It is extremely important for a leak protection system to be able to work automatically when no one is at home. The task is not only to stop the leak, but also promptly notify the owner. For which, as mentioned above, there is the possibility of SMS alerts and a sound signal, which will allow you to quickly find out about the leak if you are at home.
All systems presented in the review consist of:

In all systems under consideration, to prevent electric shock, the voltage required to power the sensors does not exceed 5 volts. The remaining devices are powered by 12 V. 220 is used only for automatic recharging of uninterruptible power supplies.

Leak protection systems are essential in apartment buildings, warehouses, boiler rooms, we believe that the reasons for this need do not need to be described in detail, due to their obviousness: the preservation of goods in warehouses, the protection of people and animals from the flood (including from hot water ), prevention of serious accidents, preservation of property.
Industrial class systems are able to prevent leaks in industrial water pipelines, for example, in case of errors of installers, welders - practically reducing the possible risk to zero.

Comparison, which is better: Aquaguard, Neptune or Gidrolock?

All these systems are Russian-made.
In an objective comparison on a five-point scale, in terms of such indicators as cost, reliability and functionality, the Hydrolock system - 5, is the leader, followed by Aquaguard - 4, and then Neptune - 3. For more details, you can read about this below.

• The advantages of Hydrolok include the possibility of installation in rooms that do not have a permanent network of 220 V, tk. the system can operate on UPS batteries for six months, which cannot be said about Neptun and Aquaguard.
• "Gidrolok" has a more advanced design of ShEP drives - using brushless stepper motors. This approach to the construction of electric motors of the ShEP gives a higher torque and reliability, and ensures the fixation of the rotor during a power outage, which cannot be said about the collector motors of Akvostorozh and Neptune.
• The Hydrolock system provides for the possibility of disconnecting the ball valve from the electric drive and replacing it separately.
  Nevertheless, Aquastorozh's cranes have a higher valve closing speed than that of Hydrolok and Neptune, but a much shorter service life.
• Hydrolock exceeds the capabilities of competitors in terms of the number of connected ball valves, the number of control zones, the functionality and the number of sensors, and the operating temperature range.
• The service life of wireless sensors from Reneta batteries in Hydroloc is 10 years, which in practice is higher than that of Aquastorage, the Neptun system does not have battery-operated sensors at all.
• "Hydrolock" is the most functional control of battery operation: under load, in idle mode and under load per unit of time, competitors do not provide such an opportunity.
• "Hydrolock" and "Aquastorage" have an emergency emergency water shutoff button in all controlled areas, while "Neptun" does not have such an opportunity.
• The “Hydrolock” set includes a convenient and functional touch remote control operating by radio signal, “Aquastorage” has a radio button, while “Neptune” does not provide such functionality.
• "Hydrolock" allows you to expand the system by connecting external equipment, such as pumps for pumping water, alarms; "Aquastorage" - only in the "PRO" configuration, "Neptune" has a non-expandable architecture.
• The industrial version of the Hydrolock system provides for the connection of a remote control with an indication to determine in which room of the building or object a leak has occurred, as well as additional control units, competitors do not have such an opportunity.
• Hydrolock protects devices from short circuits and power surges, has built-in fuses, which cannot be said about our other two already familiar systems.
  Hydrolock is supplied with a Siemens GSM modem, which is guaranteed to work in the system, AquaStorage has the ability to connect third-party modems for SMS notification.
• Electric drives of Hydrolok have a longer service life of the gearbox, the power of the drives is 1.5 times higher than that of competitors. The operating range of the sensors is also higher for the Hydroloc, when operating at a frequency of 868 MHz, they have a significantly longer signal transmission range, however, at this frequency, the signal immunity is much lower.
• The Hydrolok radio unit is smaller than its competitors