Putty for window frames for outdoor use. Repair of wooden windows: the correct sequence of work

What is the advantage of restoring wooden windows and carrying out their restoration?

Indisputable advantages in comparison with the replacement of wooden structures with PVC windows. Due to this, not only the maximum environmental friendliness of housing is achieved, but also cost savings by about 3 times. In addition, the comfort in the house will be preserved as much as possible. Restoring wooden windows is a simpler procedure than breaking out window frames and replacing them with a new PVC construction.
Window repair and restoration takes less time than a full replacement.
Noticeable cost savings. It is easier to restore the wooden frame of the windows than to replace them with plastic. In this case, the difference in the amount will be more than noticeable. Considering that we restore wooden windows in Moscow with the highest quality, you do not have to worry about the work done, and you will be satisfied with the result.

Restoration and repair of windows, installation of PVC

There is no doubt that now many are chasing new technologies and fashion. This is the first reason that ordinary wooden windows are being replaced with PVC models. Unfortunately, few people think that this approach is not always justified. The fact is that window restoration can “give new life” to an already finished product, and an environmentally friendly product. Do not forget that plastic windows are made of polymers, which simply cannot maintain the environmental friendliness of the house. Window restoration is the easiest way to transform your home while maintaining maximum environmental friendliness and cleanliness. Considering that the price for the restoration of wooden windows is affordable, think about whether it makes sense to replace it.

All about cost

The aspect regarding the price plays an important role. The price for the restoration of wooden windows is minimal, and if we consider replacing them with PVC models, we note that the difference in amounts will clearly please you.

Even in comparison with new wooden windows, PVC constructions noticeably lose.

Note that we carry out the restoration of all windows, even old wooden models. We also carry out the restoration of new types of window frames. The main advantage of contacting us is the possibility of updating the interior and exterior of the premises, obtaining maximum environmental friendliness, comfort, savings.

If you think that installing PVC structures is much more profitable than restoring old windows or restoring old window frames, then you are mistaken. The fact is that with proper work and its regular implementation, practicality, tightness, efficiency and comfort in the room are guaranteed.

If the work is done correctly, then you can get the maximum effect, which will surpass the installation of new PVC windows. However, in order to achieve this, it is important to turn to specialists, and not save on the service and look for amateurs. A call to us will help resolve this issue as soon as possible. You will understand that the restoration of old windows is a more profitable service than replacing them with a new PVC structure with its subsequent adjustment, replacement of consumables, and maintenance.

To make sure of the benefits, you can approximately calculate the cost of maintaining the PVC model, as well as the restoration of the wooden frame. It is easy to see even with the naked eye. Do not forget that plastic windows simply will not fit into some houses and apartments because of the style and interior design. This point is also important, because otherwise there will be a noticeable imbalance.

Are you sure that you need restoration of wooden windows? Contact our specialists and learn about all the benefits of the procedure.

Old windows, balcony doors, which have stood for decades, eventually cease to fully fulfill their functions. They open and close with difficulty, cold air penetrates through the cracks formed, and numerous layers of paint remind you that it would be nice to call one of the companies offering modern metal-plastic structures. But do not rush - the restoration of wooden windows will return them to working condition for a long time, and the updated sashes will give the room a kind of charm, for which wealthy people in Moscow are ready to pay much more money than those that will cost you a major overhaul of your old windows and balcony doors. Professional restoration of windows implies the removal of old paint materials, the restoration of damaged parts of the wood of the sashes, frames, the replacement of fittings, and, if necessary, structural elements that cannot be restored.

Before re-painting window sashes and frames, their surfaces must be carefully sanded, treated with an antiseptic, treated with a primer. All these operations require certain skills, so you should turn to the services of experienced professionals, such as those whose services are offered.

Do-it-yourself wooden window repair is a very relevant issue. Wooden windows do not recede even in the age of modern plastic ones. Wood is not only a natural prestige material, it also has real advantages: wooden windows are resistant to external influences, provide excellent sound and heat insulation. And most importantly, in a house with wooden windows, optimum humidity is automatically maintained.

Manufacturers, seeing that the "plastic boom" in the window market is subsiding, vying with each other offer windows made of modified wood. Nothing bad can be said about them, except for the price: not only does it not please, it scares. Meanwhile, the restoration of wooden windows with your own hands is not so difficult, and as a result, great-grandfather's dead window can be restored to the form of a completely new product.

Technology, tools, materials

Independent and professional restoration of old windows is most often based on the so-called Swedish technology. But if you understand properly, then its whole essence comes down to inserting a Euro-strip sealing cord, and fitting and repainting remain in the field of additional services, the price is from 3000 rubles / window. And in principle, the Euro-strip technology is not a restoration, but a warming. (About which on the eve of the onset of cold weather).

In the meantime, we will find out what tool and materials will be needed for this - there will be few of them:

Zenzubel (selector)

A set of chisels of various widths, from 4 to 30 mm.
Special planer for sampling and cleaning folds, quarters, grooves and sharpening of perpendicular cuts - zenzubel; in Russian - selector, see picture on the right.
A fragment of a wide, 4-6 mm and thin, no more than 0.3 mm hacksaw or jigsaw blade (saw blade). If there is a manual jigsaw on the farm, then a solid tape for it.
A wide shoe knife or palette knife is a special knife with which painters clean off paint from a palette.
Thin-walled core drill for wood 8-10 mm inside; acquired after the revision of the valves.
Carpenter's square.
T-square or bubble level 1 m.

You will also need a plumb line, but you can easily make it yourself from a thread with a nut. From the materials you will need the following:

Mounting glue for wood - "liquid nails", about 0.3 kg.
Putty on wood on sawdust of the desired tone, 0.5 kg, or 0.5 l of fine sawdust; sold in hardware stores.
Natural drying oil, 3 kg for a two-room apartment of medium size.
Thickly ground (dry mixture of pigment with filler diluted manually with a thinner) white, titanium or zinc, 2 kg from the same calculation.
Flat brushes 40 and 80 mm.
Kerosene, 2 l.
Nails, small and 60-80 mm, 0.5 kg each.
Skin No. 60 or No. 80, 0.7 m.
A dense plastic bag with a depth of 1.7 m and a width of 0.5 m. Suitable packaging from bedding, etc. Holes should be sealed with tape.
A sheet of plywood or a flat shield of boards slightly larger than the window frame.
Pieces of aviation or waterproof plywood with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm or a block of durable small-layer wood - oak, beech, walnut, mountain ash, pear, plum, cherry, acacia.
Silicone AQUARIUM glue, 10-20 ml.

Note: water-based deep penetration polymer putties on wood are not suitable for this case: they significantly increase the thermal conductivity of wooden parts.

Additionally, depending on the design of the window, you may need a stain of the desired tone and acrylic clear varnish. If you can use an industrial hair dryer, kerosene and a large plastic bag will not be needed. Having stocked up on the above, you can start overhauling old windows.

Working conditions

For windows it is better to be taken in dry, warm, even hot weather: the permissible air humidity is not more than 65%, and preferably 40%. In case of bad weather, we cover the window openings for the period of repair with a film on a temporary frame made of waste lumber: slab, waste, old pickets, etc.

Correct and incorrect dowel fit

Disassembly and revision

The most important element of the window design is the wooden dowel pins (“chops”) that fasten it at the corners. Sufficient attention will be paid to the description of how to work with them, and window repair begins precisely with the inspection and revision of the dowels.

First of all, we remove the sashes, remove the glazing beads or carefully pick out the putty with a chisel and take out the glass. Then we completely remove the fittings (it will still need a new one); we carefully remove the wooden ebbs (teardrops) from the outer wings: they are on nails, which are probably rusted. We also take out all the other nails, remove the steel squares - for further work, only wood should remain in the frame and sashes.

Next, the frame and then the sashes are laid one by one on the shield and leveled to rectangularity, measuring the diagonals: they should be of equal length. We especially carefully measure and level the sashes of the window: they are small and the price of a mistake is high. 1 mm divergence of the diagonals along the length gives a gap of 0.6-0.7 mm.

Example: on the sash, we made a mistake of 3 mm, and by the same amount in the opposite direction on the frame. You will get a gap about 4 mm wide, clearly visible, and pulling from it will also be noticeable.

We fix the aligned part of the window with nails, carefully driving them into the shield close to the sash, and check the old dowels. If everyone is sitting as expected, approximately in the middle of the corner, carefully drill them with a drill of a larger diameter, but not more than 0.6 of the width of a rectangular one, excluding grooves, quarters and bevels of solid wood (see Fig. lower part). If there is a “left”, which is not uncommon, see the figure above, we work like this:

We dig the old one along the contour with 3-4 drops of superglue, this is necessary so that it does not fall out during drilling and the hole does not go away.
We are waiting for 5-10 minutes for the glue to grab firmly in the depths, it flows far.
Drill the correct hole.
With a saw band, inserting it into the gap between the mustache of the connection, we saw through the old dowel.

After the mounting holes are drilled in all the details of the window, we disassemble the frames into parts and clean them of old paint.

Paint cleaning

There are two ways to remove old paint from windows: thermal and chemical. An industrial hair dryer is used for heat treatment cleaning. Do not try to make it domestic: it will not give 200-250 degrees. And do not set the temperature on the hair dryer to more than 250 - you will get a low-temperature, without charring, wood burn, and it will lose its qualities. The same thing happens if you heat with a blowtorch or propane torch.

The part to be cleaned is placed on the priest and heated in sections of 25-30 cm. When the paint begins to bubble, it is cleaned off like plasticine with a shoe knife or a palette knife. A spatula with a straight blade, even a sharpened one, will either cut into the wood or slip through the paint.

Video: thermal paint removal

“Chemistry” paint is removed using a plastic bag and kerosene (solvent or nitro solvents are not suitable, they will ruin the tree):

Each piece of wood is wrapped in rags.
The whole bunch, how much will fit into the neck of the bag, is thrust into it; there should be a margin for tying the bag.
Wrapped pieces of wood are watered with 0.5 liters of kerosene.
The bag is tied tightly, left for a day or more, until the paint softens.
They take out the parts one by one and clean off the paint with the same tool.

Notes:

Chemical softening of paint is a smelly and fire hazardous operation. It should be carried out on the balcony or on the street.

If you pull out the entire beam from the bag at once, the kerosene will quickly evaporate and the paint will harden again.

In both cases, if the window is supposed to be painted with paint, it is not necessary to pick out small particles of paint in the recesses: it will only be easier to putty and sand. If the window goes under the stain with varnish, then you will have to work on them.

Impregnation

The next stage of work is impregnation with drying oil. The purpose is to prevent the germs of rot, killed by heat or chemistry, from developing again, and to restore, as far as possible, the structure of dilapidated wood. In haste, for several years until the next repair, impregnate the parts with a brush from all sides 3-4 times; the next - after the complete absorption of the previous one. Before subsequent impregnation, the surface of the part should not be taken to the touch.

For centuries, they are impregnated in a special device: a piece of steel pipe 100-120 mm welded from one end. It is installed obliquely at about 30 degrees; it is advisable to use a welded kozelchik from the corner so that the pipe does not roll. The operation is performed only in the open air away from residential buildings: in the yard, in the country. On hand, you must definitely have a felt bag made of burlap or fiberglass: drying oil can flare up. You need to know this in advance, and not be scared, but immediately throw a felt mat over the neck of the pipe. It goes out - you can continue.

Drying oil is poured into the pipe by 3/4 and heated from below with a hairdryer or a stream of hot air from an electric stove. As the drying oil heats up, it will begin to bubble: it is moisture that evaporates from it and air comes out. If the smell of drying oil suddenly intensified sharply, we move the heater aside, wait a bit and continue heating. When there are no bubbles, impregnation can begin.

Warning: in no case do not look directly into the neck of the pipe and do not lean over it! You need to follow the drying oil sideways.

For impregnation, you will need a 5-6 mm steel wire hook with a pointed end. The item is placed in a pipe and melted with a hook for 3-5 minutes, then it, hooked with a point, is taken out and laid on a table to dry. Do not grab the parts with your hands, even in mittens: hot drying oil with a temperature of over 130 degrees will drain from them.

Parts treated in this way from the most ordinary pine serve in the open air for 150 years or more, and painted with oil paint require repainting no more than once every 15 years.

Windows restoration

Nagels and wedges

Before actually taking on the restoration of wooden windows, you need to prepare new dowels and wedges for them. The pins are drilled with a core drill from any straight-grain commercial wood. You need to drill Across the fibers, as shown in the figure. Hastily planed "chops" will not hold the frames for a long time. For each pin, it is necessary to prepare in advance a wedge with a length of its diameter, a width of 5-7 mm and a thickness of 1-1.5 mm. The best wedges are oak and rowan. The dowel diameter is 0.5-0.7 mm larger than the diameter of the mounting hole for it.

Outside Alignment

The frame to be leveled is assembled, while not fixing it with anything, on a shield-stock; it must be covered with plastic film in advance. They are aligned diagonally, as before, and also fixed with nails driven in from the sides. The fixing holes are drilled again.

Next, the frame is disassembled, the mustache and grooves of the joints are smeared with liquid nails, quickly (the glue hardens in a few minutes) they are assembled in a slipway, they are also quickly checked with diagonals and, if necessary, trimmed. When the glue grabs, proceed to fixing with dowels. It is impossible to put it off for another day: in order for the dowels to hold the frame properly, the adhesive joint during their installation must still be sufficiently plastic.

Nagels are lightly lubricated with liquid nails and hammered into holes with a mallet. THE NAGEL FIBERS MUST BE LOCATED Across THE WOOD FIBERS! This is an indispensable condition for the reliability of the connection, see fig. Finally, the dowels are fixed with wedges on both sides, driving them ALONG THE FIBER of the dowel, also see the figure.

The question may arise: what about the response detail? Nagel fibers will go along its fibers.

The fact is that the counterpart, after driving the wedges into the dowels, will fall on the “waist” of the dowel and will not split. And a wedge driven into the dowel before the glue has completely hardened will give, in addition to the lateral, some vertical force, so that the entire joint will shrink and the glue will gain strength under pressure. After 3 days of exposure at +25 degrees, such a frame, dropped at an angle from a height of a meter, remains rectangular.

Frame and sash adjustment

The squareness along the outer edge does not guarantee the straightness of the mounting openings: the tree may dry out unevenly. Therefore, the next stage of work is the alignment of the inner quarters.

First, we adjust the window frame and the vents in the corresponding sash: we put the frame on the priest and check the quarters in turn with a plumb line. If there is at least one exactly perpendicular, we take it as a base. If not, you will have to suffer with a square and a T-square until we find the most "left" corner. From it, then from other corners with a pencil along the T-square we beat off the lines of the new opening and with a zenzubel, and in the corners with a chisel we select the excess (in the figure - on the left).

Next, in the same way, we check and equalize the sash OUTSIDE. Then the sashes are laid next to each other and aligned in height and width, as shown in the figure on the right. Quarters under the glass can not be touched: both for the appearance and for the reliability of the window, their slight distortion is insignificant. But if you get a taste and want to align them, it won't hurt.

After the described operations, the sash together will be less than the landing opening of the frame. To fit into the frame (exactly into it, otherwise the window will not close later!) We put strips of plywood in a quarter on liquid nails. After the glue hardens, we bring it to accuracy with a zenzubel and a chisel, we select recesses for fittings. Next, we grab after 15-25 cm with small carnations, drowning their hats with a chisel. Then we impregnate the lining with drying oil with a 40 mm flute

Putty and sanding

Putty for small recesses can be prepared independently by mixing sawdust on liquid nails in a ratio of 3: 1 by volume. You need to knead quickly, in small portions, and just as quickly putty: the glue sets in a few minutes. Finally, we sand the frame with sandpaper.

Reminder: before puttying, do not forget to put the ebbs in place, on liquid nails and then on ordinary ones.

Painting

For decades, wooden windows have been painted with oil paint. The best option is to purchase thickly grated paint and mix it yourself in linseed or “wooden” (walnut) oil, as artists do. "Natural" ready-made oil paints on sale are most often based on synthetic or mineral oil thinners, which are much inferior to traditional ones in terms of durability. Glyphthalic and pentaphthalic enamels do not fit well: after 5 years, the window will require repainting, and extra layers of paint spoil the look.

When purchasing a thicker paint, make sure that the pigment is mineral and not synthetic. White can be checked by rubbing a pinch between the fingers: there should be no "slippery" feeling, and the powder should stick to the fingers. Synthetic pigment almost completely flies off when shaken off.

Advice: the main parts of the paint are pigment, filler (dry) and thinner. If you want windows to shine for a very long time, choose paint with marble flour (microcarbonate) filler.

Oil paint is kneaded in a wide flat dish: they are poured in a pile, a hole is made at its top, oil is poured into it and kneaded. Oil is added in small portions to the desired density. For windows, you need the consistency of liquid sour cream.

Video: an example of painting a wooden window

Finishing

Finishing "under nature" in the described technology is made with stains. Stains change the tone of the wood and emphasize its texture: an ordinary business pine, after being treated with a suitable stain, can be almost indistinguishable in appearance from bog oak, pandan or mahogany. It is advisable to experiment on old chocks before decorating: choose the tone and degree of dilution.

Finishing with wood stains also has additional advantages: the coloring composition penetrates deeply, coloring the wood in bulk, so that after sanding, in case of repair, it will not be necessary to repaint. In addition, wood stain increases the resistance of wood to decay and ultraviolet rays.

The decorative finish of the window is completed by varnishing it with transparent or tinted acrylic varnish, installing fittings and glass. Acrylic's competitor in quality is only Japanese tung lacquer, but it is not available to every oligarch.

Glazing

Before installing the glasses in the inner corners of the quarters, we squeeze out a thin sausage of aquarium silicone glue under them. After fixing the glasses with carnations, we remove the silicone drips with a cloth moistened with vinegar. Carnations do not need to be wiped dry from silicone: it will protect them from corrosion. After the silicone hardens (2 mm / day), we seal the glass with putty, as usual: chalk mixed with drying oil. If the glass will be fastened with glazing beads, they must be processed in advance, like other wooden parts, and painted.

Outcome

The ancient technology of restoring wooden windows, complemented by modern materials, works wonders. A completely shabby window, which has been in the hands of a skilled and accurate craftsman, looks no worse than a plastic one, and retains all the useful properties of wood.

What is the best way to putty wood window frames?

The choice of putty for wooden windows should be based on the scope and complexity of the proposed work. Already, depending on the condition of the wooden window covering and the intended end result, the choice of putty can fall into several options.

For example:

putty on wood with fiberglass (used for significant mechanical damage to the wooden coating, since the fiberglass that is part of this type of putty is tight and resistant to external environmental influences);
adhesive putty on wood (it has excellent adhesion to the work surface, but is slightly inferior in popularity);
moisture-resistant putty on wood (for example, Eskaro Aqua Filler, quite expensive in cost, but they brilliantly cope with a situation where you need to protect wooden windows from prolonged exposure to water);
acrylic putty on wood (it is elastic and resistant to temperature extremes and climatic influences, it dries quickly and takes the form of natural wood - it is applicable for finishing both indoor and outdoor spaces);

Some of the best putties on wooden window surfaces that have received great love and demand from consumers are:

Two-component putty "Unisoft";
Two-component polyester universal "Uni".

Putty for wooden windows must meet the basic requirements: withstand high humidity, temperature changes.

To seal and restore deep cracks and defects, use a coarse-grained putty designed for the restoration of wooden surfaces.
Finish with a fine-grained white or beige putty.
Modern types of acrylic and alkyd putties can be used for starting and finishing. They dry quickly, are easy to sand and do not snap off for many years.

Putty for window frames: how to putty a window sill and putty windows with your own hands, video instruction, photo and price

Perhaps, with the mass installation of double-glazed windows and plastic window sills and slopes, this question of how to putty the window sill has become less relevant.

Putty for windows has a fairly wide range of offers already ready for use.

New materials and technologies to solve old problems

However, it still worries a lot of people.

First of all, in former and rather long times, only wooden windows were installed.
And secondly, even in cities, some still prefer to put a “tree”, but over time it requires care, but here you can’t do without putty.

The solution to the question of how to putty windows necessarily begins with the removal of old putty and paint.

The construction market classifies putty for windows into the following categories:

method of presenting the composition;
the main material used in the preparation;
curing speed;
requirement for the nature of the treated surface;
color.

Even such puttying of window frames will make you pick up a spatula in the future

Classification

According to the method of presenting the composition, putty is divided into three types:

dry, in the form of a powder - this must first be diluted with water before use;
pasta, already ready for use, it only needs to be slightly kneaded and then put into action;
sealant - foam composition, which is increasingly becoming fashionable; here, however, you can not do without the help of a spatula
anyway, but such a composition is used mainly for access to difficult places where it is necessary to ensure complete and 100% sealing.

According to the material that was used for manufacturing (although the range of possible proposals for this category is so wide that only the most famous bases are listed in this list):

based on nitrocellulose,
using polyester materials,
with the predominant content of linseed oil.

By the speed of hardening, when it is already possible to start grinding:

ordinary, which hardens after 3 days, no less, and,
hardening slowly, which is very similar to plasticine and which, when closed, can be stored for quite a long time, this is its main advantage.

By the nature of the treated surface - here we mean the degree of porosity of the surface, so the classification is simple:

for porous surfaces; the most famous representative of these is wooden;
for non-porous surfaces; here is plastic and metal.

The color of the putty is:

white - which is most often;
gray is already like a product of “white” without much desire for it;
and then a lot of “stops” are already possible according to the color of the frame itself; in principle, if you're lucky, you can pick up putty of any color.

Finished packaging example

For example, we give the characteristics of acrylic wood putty Uno (pictured):

designed for puttying any wooden surfaces - from furniture to window frames;
Can be used both indoors and outdoors;
readiness for use - complete, immediately after purchase;
allows grinding after drying;
adhesion class with the treated surface without the use of special materials - high;
weight of one package - 450 gr;
available colors: 12 options, including white, oak, beech, pine, mahogany, alder, walnut, chestnut, ash.

Putty for window frames - one of the many examples of packaging (see description in the text)

The order of work for every taste

Several operations are associated with putty on wood.

DIY recipes

First, you can cook it yourself.

Here are the two most accessible recipes:

The first is based on rosin:

in a container, mix 2 parts of rosin, 1 part of lard and 10 parts of chalk;
melt until a completely liquid mass is obtained, stirring constantly;
when finished, let cool.

Helpful advice! We advise you to try this putty of yours on rosin, it will be especially good when you want to remove it. It is easily removed with ordinary hot water. What is most interesting, the removed mixture can be applied again.

The second is based on linseed oil:

Here we already mix 7 parts of linseed oil, 4 parts of umber;
we also begin to melt with constant stirring;
during the heating process, you will first need to add 4 parts of yellow wax,
then 5.5 parts of chalk and
11 parts white lead;
when the mass takes on a stable liquid form without lumps, heating stops;
Let the paste cool down again.

Before painting, window putty requires sanding, although its quality and the tools used are still up to you.

Application work

Instructions for using putty with your own hands, in whatever form it is supplied, is as follows:

first, and this is an indispensable condition, we remove all the old paint and putty;
then we carefully clean the entire surface, grind it and again clean it of all dust residues, let the surface dry completely;
we proceed to apply the first layer of coarse-grained putty in order to remove all significant irregularities;
wait until the surface dries;
starts applying the already fine-grained finish;
when the surface is completely dry, it is polished again.

Puttying windows in this way removes many problems of hard-to-reach places

Helpful advice! We advise you to turn to the so-called high-temperature putty, which is indispensable when working outdoors. Such a putty can withstand a temperature range from -40 to +250 degrees, without losing its qualities at all.

findings

What is the price of the presented material, you may not even think about it, it is practically “zero”, given the task that the material performs.

Repair of old wooden windows - partial and major window restoration

Without putty when working on wooden frames, there is nowhere to go.

Only in this way can the surface be truly protected from future external influences and prepared for painting. This indisputable truth will not be too lazy to repeat for you an additional video in this article.

Modern wooden window structures, with proper installation and subsequent timely repair, will serve you for many years. Why is there a need to repair them?

Any paint and varnish coating under the influence of the sun and moisture ceases to protect the window from destruction over time. Therefore, timely painting will prevent the destruction of wood, the occurrence of fungus, rot and drying out. Also, cracks and chips may appear on the window frame, this problem will be solved by window repair and restoration.

New wooden windows have a lot of weight, due to the double-glazed windows installed in them. Therefore, fittings and mechanisms experience a constant excess load. All mechanisms and accessories need timely adjustment and lubrication. Otherwise, they do not fulfill their functions, the sashes sag and begin to cling to the frame, the mechanisms open and close the window with difficulty, gaps appear due to a poor fit of the seal, and over time they completely fail.

Seals on modern windows are made of rubber and have their own service life. During operation, the rubber seal loses its elasticity, as a result of which it does not fit tightly, and gaps are formed that worsen heat and noise insulation. The seal must be replaced with a better one (Swedish EvroStrip silicone seal).

Old wooden windows

Masters of the company Teplo-Oknodel maintain and repair old wooden windows and doors in Moscow and the Moscow region. In Moscow houses, apartments built from the 70s to the 90s, windows of the so-called "Finnish type" were installed. These are twin-paneled windows with tie bolts; when opened, when washed inside, they resemble a book. In houses of an older construction, windows of the "Stalinist type" were installed. These are windows with separate sash and frame, closed with latches, most often have a transom.

Putty for window frames is a material for restoring the surface before painting. The agent protects the building base from changes in temperature, moisture and ultraviolet radiation. If you choose the right material, window repair will last for a long time.

Professionals distinguish several types of material. The tool is classified, depending on the readiness for application, composition, setting speed and shade.

By degree of readiness

Putty for window frames according to the degree of readiness is divided into several types:

dry composition. To prepare such a repair solution, the product is diluted with water and stirred. The main advantage of the material is an affordable price, but amateurs have difficulties when working with the product.
Ready composition. It is a pasty product that is used after opening the package and stirring.
Sealant. This is a foam material that is ready to use. The tool is used to ensure the sealing of windows in hard-to-reach places. The advantage is ease of use. When using it, there will be no problems even for beginners in the construction business.

Composition

Types of putty by composition:

Solvent based materials. This putty was invented first. The remaining funds were made by analogy with this material. The main advantage is increased strength. The disadvantage is a strong smell.
Water based product. The material is non-toxic, has no pungent odor, has elasticity, so it is easy to apply. The product eliminates defects and irregularities, reliably adheres to wood and plastic. Such a putty for windows has moisture resistance and resistance to temperature changes, so the product is used for outdoor work.
Oil putty. The product is made on the basis of oil and solvents. Designed for wooden bases for outdoor use. The material protects the surface from mechanical damage and adverse environmental conditions.
acrylic product. This is one of the most sought after materials. Popularity is due to affordable cost and high performance. The tool is elastic, does not shrink and protects the tree from temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation and moisture.
Nitro putty. It is a material that is made on the basis of cellulose, solvents and plasticizers.

Drying speed

According to the speed of hardening, putties are divided into quick-drying and conventional compositions. The first one freezes in a few hours. This allows you to complete the work on the restoration of windows in one day. Conventional formulations freeze for three days or more. The advantage of such materials is increased strength. The disadvantage is that restoration work cannot be continued until the product has completely solidified, that is, window repair will be delayed for several days.

By shade

Classification of putty for windows by color:

white material - such a tool is advised to choose for classic light coloring;
gray product (as in the photo below) - suitable for any paint;
color agent - it is recommended to use if the finish coat is performed with colored paint.

How to prepare putty yourself?

Putty is prepared with their own hands. The main thing is to know the recipes of the material.

Rosin based

To prepare such a tool you will need:

rosin - 2 parts;
lard - 1 part;
chalk - 10 parts.

Place the ingredients in a metal container and stir. Place the product in a water bath. Stirring continuously, heat the material. Do not remove from the water bath until the product has a liquid consistency. After cooling, the composition is used for its intended purpose.

Based on linseed oil

To prepare a putty based on linseed oil, take:

linseed oil - 7 parts;
umber (mineral brown clay pigment) - 4 parts;
yellow wax - 4 parts;
chalk - 5.5 parts;
lead white - 11 parts.

In a metal container of a suitable volume, mix linseed oil and umber. Place the product in a water bath. Whisking continuously, add the rest of the ingredients. Keep the product in a water bath until a liquid consistency is formed, until the lumps disappear. Cool the material and use as directed.

Material application technology

Professionals know how to putty windows. If a beginner performs the restoration of frames on his own, he needs to familiarize himself with the rules of work.

Instructions for applying the material:

Puttying windows begins with the dismantling of the old coating. Remove paint and putty. Then dust and degrease the surface. Carry out sanding and remove dust again.
Prime the frame. Apply the product in two layers, taking a break to dry.
Apply putty. Carefully seal the gaps between the frame and glass. To do this, it is recommended to use a sealant.
Wait for it to dry and apply a second coat of material. This is the final stage of puttying window frames. When the composition hardens, finish.

How to putty a window sill?

If we talk about how to putty a window sill, then the work is carried out in the same way as puttying frames. The first thing they do is remove the old coating. For this, it is recommended to use a building hair dryer or a special liquid. This will speed up the process of dismantling the old paint. After that, clean the surface with sandpaper P 60 or P 80. Sweep away dust and degrease the window sill. Next, apply two coats of primer. Let the product dry after each treatment. Fill in surface imperfections with putty. After that, apply the composition to the surface. Level the base with a wide trowel and remove excess material. Stop work for 24 hours. Sand the surface with P 100 or P 120 sandpaper. Remove dust and apply two coats of primer. After the agent has hardened, paint the window sill.

Putty for window frames for outdoor use. Repair of wooden windows: the correct sequence of work

All about cost