Make a ceiling flooring in an ordinary wooden bath. Cover and ceiling

When building a bath, it is impossible to ignore the question of how to build and insulate the ceiling. Despite the fact that this process seems very complicated at first glance, everything is extremely simple.

For a wooden bath or foam block bath, the ceiling structure can have three mounting options:

hemmed;
Grazing;
Panel.

hemmed

The design of the false ceiling for the bath consists in creating a frame base from floor beams, on which all the constituent elements are fixed. During the construction process, the beams are sheathed with tongue-and-groove or edged boards. A material for vapor and thermal insulation is laid on a shield of boards, which can be used as mineral wool slabs, sawdust, shavings or expanded clay. From the attic side, the insulation is covered with waterproofing, and then sheathed with cut or uncut boards (see Insulation for the bath ceiling).

Such ceiling device it is better to use it when building a bath with an attic, since in this case the whole process can be carried out by one person, without resorting to the help of specialists. However, this is the most expensive type of flooring, since long boards and massive beams require considerable investments. This design is used in the construction of a block log house.

Grazing

Decking ceiling laid directly on the surface of the walls. In this case, the distance between the walls should be from 2.5 m, and the thickness of the boards should be from 5 cm. The laid boards are covered with a vapor barrier and mineral insulation. The next layer is waterproofing, and only then a wooden flooring is made. In the presence of a panel ceiling, the manufacture of each sector must be performed according to a separate template. Do-it-yourself installation of panel plates is rather complicated due to the large mass, therefore, the plates themselves are first installed, and only then they are insulated and insulated. However, even in this case, the help of several people is needed.

The installation process of the flooring should not cause difficulties, but it can only be used when arranging baths of a small size (no more than 2.5 m wide) and a small ceiling height. The construction of this ceiling does not require large financial, labor and time costs.

Since in this option the thermal insulation finish is not protected, it is only suitable for structures without an attic. There is also one significant drawback: in the case of repairs to ceilings or rafters, the heat insulator will have to be completely dismantled.

Panel

To make your own panel ceiling you need to stock up on shields in advance. What shields consist of: load-bearing beams, inner lining, vapor barrier, external ladder, thermal insulation and waterproofing. To insulate such a ceiling, it is better to use mineral wool or glass wool slabs. Thus, you will reduce the mass of the shield itself and increase the energy-saving qualities.

One condition must be met - in a wooden bath, the insulation layer should not be less than 100 mm. To protect the ceiling from heat loss, a moisture-resistant and heat-saving sealant is laid between the shields. As a rule, foil insulation is taken for this, or felt protected by foil. When using shields, for the manufacture of the frame of which bars with a cross section of more than 5 * 10 cm were used, installation can be carried out even without the use of ceiling beams. This is due to the strength of the frame itself. After the process of installing a bath ceiling is completed, measures can be taken to insulate it. This is done by laying a vapor barrier material on the waterproofing.

Having finished with laying the waterproofing and insulation, a wooden flooring is made on top of them from boards, fixing them with nails to the ceiling beams. At the junction of the panels, a material is laid that prevents the penetration of steam and cold. To fasten the panels, you must use boards, or fix them on the upper beams of the log house.

According to professionals, hemmed construction is the best option, so we recommend that you take this advice into account before deciding how to make the ceiling in the bath. Despite the high cost, its operational life is much longer than other options. Panel overlap is inferior to it due to the complexity of installation and subsequent repair.

See short video, which shows how the ceiling in the bath should look like at the initial stage of construction:

Ceiling vapor barrier

Since the bath is dominated by hot steam, which tends to rise up, the ceiling is made with this feature in mind. Provision must be made for steam isolation through openings in the ceiling. Installation of the flooring is carried out in the following order: insulation; measures to protect against moisture ingress into the attic; materials that contribute to the accumulation of hot steam at the top of the room. To achieve this result, you need to follow the following step-by-step instructions:

If the bath is built from logs, boards and blocks with a thickness of at least 6 cm can be used for ceiling cladding. A vapor barrier is laid on top, which is aluminum foil, wax paper or thick cardboard impregnated with drying oil;
Soft clay is laid on the vapor barrier layer, on top of which a heater spreads;
Any suitable material can act as a heater (expanded clay, sawdust mixed with a clay solution, sand or mineral insulation). At the same time, the thickness of the insulating material should not be less than 15 cm and do not forget about the chimney;
A screed of cement and sand is arranged on the insulation. However, in the case of using the attic as a living space, it is necessary to use durable floorboards for the flooring.

To make the finishing lining of the ceiling, you can use natural wood (coniferous trees, larch or aspen) by looking at a few a photo and choosing the right decor option. However, the boards must be carefully processed and not have knots, cracks on their surface, be well dried and treated with protective agents. By following these recommendations, you can significantly increase the service life of not only the ceiling itself, but the entire structure as a whole.

When designing a bath, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of operation. These include high humidity, a sharp temperature drop and a high coefficient of thermal insulation of the materials used. Most often, problems arise when trying to make a ceiling in the bath with your own hands. A step-by-step guide with photos and videos will allow you to perform work efficiently and in accordance with applicable requirements.

First you need to familiarize yourself with the microclimate in the steam room and dressing room. In the first case, high temperatures affect the surface of the walls and ceiling, and the humidity level can reach 80%. These conditions place special demands on the materials used.

Based on this, it is possible to form the basic requirements for the materials and construction of the ceiling in the bath:

Minimum coefficient of thermal expansion. There should be no gaps between layers of protective or decorative material.
Providing thermal insulation. This is especially true for the steam room, where the temperature regime should not change due to heat loss.
Ventilation. It is necessary for the influx of fresh air and humidity control.
Fire safety. Flame retardant coating must not be used. The exception is wood paneling. But it is also pre-treated with special compounds.

The ceiling in the bath has the maximum effect of temperature and moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully approach the purchase and processing of protective and decorative coatings.

Material selection

The arrangement of the ceiling directly depends on its design. It may consist of wooden rafters with two layers of plank covering or be a reinforced concrete floor. For each option, an individual scheme and coating materials are selected.

Most often they make a wooden floor. It should consist of the following layers, starting from the inner.

Clean lining.
Ventilation gap.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation.
Second ventilation gap.
Plank covering attic.

For the proper arrangement of the ceiling in the bath, it is necessary to select the appropriate materials.

Fine lining of the steam room and dressing room

Despite the emergence of new decorative and protective claddings, the choice is often stopped on a wooden lining or board. They have optimal performance characteristics, after treatment with fire retardants, the risk of fire is reduced, subject to the manufacturing technology, thermal expansion and moisture absorption are minimal.

Reliable tongue-and-groove connection compensates for thermal expansion and does not affect the insulating properties of the layer.
Air channels to remove moisture reduce the chance of wood swelling.
Good appearance.
Ease of installation and replacement of individual elements.

thermal insulation

The most important component of arranging the ceiling in the bath. Immediately it is worth abandoning polymeric heaters - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane. Despite the affordable cost and ease of installation, they lose their properties under the influence of high temperatures and are combustible materials. In addition, the lack of a vapor-permeable effect will cause the concentration of moisture on the wood flooring.

fireproof effect. Can withstand temperatures up to +1100°C.
The best indicators of thermal insulation.
Ease of installation.
Flexibility. After strong compression, it restores its original shape. It is convenient for installation.
Passes water vapor, but at the same time the coefficient of absorption is minimal.

It is necessary to choose models without a protective layer, as it will nullify the effect of moisture removal. Additionally, you need to purchase a vapor-permeable film. It is mounted on the primary decorative coating of wooden lining.

Work order

Before starting the process of arranging the roof, you need to develop a scheme for installing materials. To do this, you need to take standard drawings and adapt them according to the properties of the bath room. The diagram shows the recommended dimensions of the ventilation gaps and the heat-insulating layer.

The sequence of work.

Bars are mounted on the beams to fix the insulation. If the distance between them is large, an additional crate is made.
Installation of lining. When connecting the boards, compensation gaps must be left. The distance from the lining to the bars should be 12-14 mm.
Installation of vapor barrier film. The joints are overlapped with adhesive tape.
Heater installation. Its thickness should be 50-100 mm. The presence of gaps is unacceptable.
Installation of waterproofing film.
Arrangement of wooden flooring in the attic.

The minimum height from floor to ceiling must be 2200 mm. Ventilation ducts must be made, special sleeves are mounted in the places where the chimney pipes pass, protecting the wood and the heat insulator from high temperatures.

Rules for arranging the ceiling in the bath

Based on this, it is possible to form the basic requirements for the materials and construction of the ceiling in the bath:

Minimum coefficient of thermal expansion. There should be no gaps between layers of protective or decorative material.
Providing thermal insulation. This is especially true for the steam room, where the temperature regime should not change due to heat loss.
Ventilation. It is necessary for the influx of fresh air and humidity control.
Fire safety. Flame retardant coating must not be used. The exception is wood paneling. But it is also pre-treated with special compounds.

Material selection

Most often they make a wooden floor. It should consist of the following layers, starting from the inner.

Clean lining.
Ventilation gap.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation.
Second ventilation gap.
Plank covering attic.

For the proper arrangement of the ceiling in the bath, it is necessary to select the appropriate materials.

Fine lining of the steam room and dressing room

Reliable tongue-and-groove connection compensates for thermal expansion and does not affect the insulating properties of the layer.
Air channels to remove moisture reduce the chance of wood swelling.
Good appearance.
Ease of installation and replacement of individual elements.

thermal insulation

fireproof effect. Can withstand temperatures up to +1100°C.
The best indicators of thermal insulation.
Ease of installation.
Flexibility. After strong compression, it restores its original shape. It is convenient for installation.
Passes water vapor, but at the same time the coefficient of absorption is minimal.

Work order

The sequence of work.

Bars are mounted on the beams to fix the insulation. If the distance between them is large, an additional crate is made.
Installation of lining. When connecting the boards, compensation gaps must be left. The distance from the lining to the bars should be 12-14 mm.
Installation of vapor barrier film. The joints are overlapped with adhesive tape.
Heater installation. Its thickness should be 50-100 mm. The presence of gaps is unacceptable.
Installation of waterproofing film.
Arrangement of wooden flooring in the attic.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath: a step-by-step guide, photos and videos

A step-by-step guide that will help you properly build the bath ceiling, insulate it and select all the materials. Photo and video.

How to make a ceiling in the bath with your own hands correctly

bathroom ceiling photo

The construction of a hygienic building on a suburban area is a responsible undertaking, the implementation of which must take into account many related nuances. Most of them relate to the operation of the bath. A small room is exposed to high humidity, frequent temperature adjustments over a wide range. All this puts forward special requirements for the bath design.

It is important to know not only how to build the “box” itself, but also how to make the ceiling in the bath so that it can cope with extreme loads. For beginners, step-by-step instructions will be very appropriate, it will also be appropriate for professional architects. This article is devoted to this.

The main requirements for the ceiling in the steam room

"Layer" ceiling scheme

There are several types of ceiling zone for the bath - each of them will be considered in today's material. Whichever option you choose, keep in mind that the requirements remain the same:

All ceilings are massive solutions, especially when they are used as an attic, utility room or utility room. The key requirement for such structures is high structural reliability, the ability to withstand operational loads.

Floor beams of the future bath

Water procedures and high temperature are useful for human health only in those cases when an optimal microclimate is formed inside. It is important to consider that it is through the ceiling in the bath that the lion's share of heat "leaves". In the context, it is necessary to provide this zone with reliable thermal insulation.

Graph of humidity versus temperature in different baths

Structural elements and materials must be resistant to high temperature, dampness. But what if wood is traditionally used for the construction of hygienic buildings? In this case, it is necessary to treat the surface of the products with impregnations and specialized protective compounds, flame retardants.

For a bath, high humidity is an invariable attribute, because without it, the benefits of water procedures are zero. In the context of this, load-bearing elements and constructive solutions are protected by vapor and waterproofing. The steam must have a free exit to the surrounding atmosphere.

Do not forget about the aesthetic aspect of the bath ceiling. If everything is done beautifully and comfortably, then the pleasure of spending time increases at times. Not in vain, experienced architects consider decorative elements to be the “calling card” not only of the building, but also of its owners. The design of the bath ceiling can be panel, floor or hemmed. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

false ceiling

In domestic open spaces, it is the hemmed ceiling of the bath that is most often found. Its design is intuitive, simple, reliable and conforms to all known standards. Installation begins with the installation of floor beams. It is on them that other elements and details will subsequently be installed. In this case, there are no restrictions on the size of the room.

false ceiling in the bath

It is very important to adhere to the design documentation, including in terms of installing floor beams (keep a certain step between the logs, use a material of a given diameter). Thanks to this approach, the ceiling device in the bath becomes a full-fledged interfloor ceiling with a lot of useful features.

Figure 7 shows a schematic representation of a false ceiling.

Scheme of false ceiling

The walls of the building (in most cases, capital from natural wood).
Thoroughly fixed and insulated beams.
Hemming boards for the ceiling.
Waterproofing layer (heat loss can be leveled by using a foil layer of a waterproof membrane).
The space between the beams is filled with thermal insulation.
Vapor permeable membrane.
Attic floor.

The construction of the above structure implies the presence of a large amount of lumber and "free hands", due to the laboriousness of the event.

Installation work

So, a step-by-step guide to creating a ceiling in the bath with your own hands:

Floor beams are necessarily treated with flame retardants and other impregnations. With special care they “walk” along the edges of the tree. It makes sense to apply the primer in several layers.

Floor beams treated with protective compounds

For those steam rooms where it is planned to install a stove-heater, it is necessary to determine the area for installing the chimney. Between the 2 beams there are several jumpers, through which a small square is formed. A metal passage box is mounted in the made rectangular one.

note! It is very important to achieve a match between the hole and the purchased metal product..

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath is formed with a hydro- and vapor barrier membrane. It is positioned in such a way that the protective layer forms a difficult overlap of 20 cm.

Hydro and vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath

The construction of a ceiling structure cannot be imagined without filing the boards. Professionals advise using 3rd grade material for this purpose, through which you can form a base for an insulating layer. At the bottom, the design will have a slightly different look.

Hemming planks to the ceiling

After completing the sheathing, you can insert the box under the smoke exhaust pipe, and then fix the product at the ceiling.

The next step is the installation of insulation. Some experts advise to hem the bottom row of boards, and already lay hydro and vapor barrier on them. But if you do this, then from the bottom of the floor beams they remain completely unprotected from moisture, which traditionally rises from below. Whatever the vapor barrier is made of, the beam always remains wet, even when the steam room is not used.

Incorrect position of the waterproofing film

Such a ceiling zone “will not work out” its resource, since the filing in any case comes into contact with steam. The intensity of the processes of decay increases significantly. Naturally, the strength of the ceiling is reduced to a minimum and in this case it is impossible to do without expensive repairs.

The optimal insulation in the case of a bath is stone or mineral wool. These materials are absolutely safe for human health. In addition, they are not subject to fire. The mats are laid in such a way that they are as close as possible to the beams, without the slightest hint of gaps.

Dedovskaya "method of ceiling insulation

The rapid progress did not affect the popularity of the "grandfather" approaches to the insulation of the ceiling zone in the steam room . Do-it-yourself baths are built mainly from a log house, while residual products in the form of sawdust and small chips are certainly formed. In essence, it is a wonderful heater.

The traditional way to use them is to fill the small particles into the empty space between adjacent beam structures. Real professionals supplement crushed sawdust with clay or cement. The operation is quite simple in nature, but the phased plan must be carried out in strict sequence.

A lining is sewn at the bottom of the ceiling. A waterproofing layer is laid in the space between the beams.

hemming lining to the ceiling

A duct is installed under the chimney with a pipe.

Chimney box

The space between the base of the beams is filled with a wet mortar (having previously provided reliable protection of wooden surfaces from a liquid consistency). At the top of the beams must necessarily remain open.

Dry mortar between beams

When answering the question of how to properly make a ceiling in a bath, you should not miss such an important aspect as sealing gaps and crevices with construction foam. This eliminates the likelihood of the formation of unwanted cold bridges.

The next step is the preparation of the insulating consistency. For 1.5 dm3 of dry cement, at least 2 buckets of sawdust (necessarily dry) are added.

The optimal volume of water is added to the composition, while it is necessary to do this in such a way that the composition is not liquid. In the hands (with a slight physical impact) there should be a small lump in which there is no water.

A construction mixer kneads the mixture (if we are talking about small volumes), which fills the space between adjacent beams.

Cement mortar for bath roof

An even layer of solution is formed. For high-quality insulation of the ceiling, it is necessary to fill the space with the composition to the level of the cutoff of the beams (thickness from 10 to 15 cm). The composition is given some time to set and finally dry.

Thus, the ceiling is created in the bath with your own hands - the technology is simple, but very effective. Regardless of the choice of insulation, a diffusion membrane is necessarily fixed on the surface of the beams, which is capable of passing steam. Structurally, it is designed in such a way that the penetration of water vapor from above is excluded in principle, while it can freely move in the direction from bottom to top.

Experts state that the ventilation implemented in this way eliminates the risk of accumulation of the slightest condensate on the surface of the material. Insulating characteristics remain unchanged during the entire period of operation of the ceiling. At the final stage, plank flooring is created in the attic, if such is provided for by the layout.

Hemming ceilings in most cases are complemented by full-fledged floors. After that, the building can be absolutely free and safe to use.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath: a step-by-step guide, professional advice

photo of the ceiling in the bath

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath

A bath is a room with a certain and rather serious functional load. Therefore, all elements in it play an important role. The importance of the correct construction of the ceiling, which performs not only decorative and delimiting functions, cannot be underestimated. Let's dwell on the topic of the bath ceiling in more detail.

How to start arranging the ceiling in the bath?

Before proceeding directly to work on the construction of the ceiling in the bath, it is necessary to draw up a project. This will help reduce the risk of errors and make sure that the finished design will meet the requirements for it.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath photo

provide thermal insulation of the bath;
have an aesthetic appearance;
do not give fumes that will spoil the impression of bath procedures;
be durable;
prevent the thermal insulation layer from getting wet.

The first thing you need to decide when drawing up a project is at what height the ceiling should be located. When calculating the height of the ceiling, they usually rely on the following data:

the height of the tallest person in your family;
a person sitting on the topmost shelf should not touch the ceiling;
to what height the hand of the person who will soar will rise with a broom.

For wooden baths, 0.15 m is also added to the obtained ceiling height to take into account the shrinkage of the structure. In most cases, a steam room height of 2.5 m is suitable for a bath.

The traditional material for arranging a bath is wood. The ceiling is no exception. Ceiling beams, attic flooring (if any), as well as ceiling cladding are made of wood. Only in the first two cases, conifers are used, which have excellent moisture resistance. But the ceiling lining is best made from hardwoods such as aspen or linden.

This is due to the fact that the low resin content increases sound insulation and heat resistance and reduces the thermal conductivity of the material. In addition, the resins in the cladding will melt and drain for the first time, which will bring inconvenience to attendants.

In any case, all wooden elements should not have defects, be well dried and impregnated with a special antiseptic composition.

As a vapor barrier, it is allowed to use a dense polyethylene film, aluminum foil. Sometimes, to protect the insulation from the action of steam from the bath, cardboard is used, which is pre-treated with drying oil, but this is not the best solution, since this material is very quickly exposed to mold.

The modern construction market offers, for example, isospan or penoplex, as a vapor barrier, when laying which you must follow the instructions.

It is impossible to imagine a bath ceiling without a layer of insulation. There are many options here. Insulation can be of natural or artificial origin.

Since ancient times, the ceiling of the bath has been insulated clay, earth, sawdust, sand or a combination of several of the listed materials. This technology is used to this day in some baths, because many people care about the environmental friendliness of the building, especially the steam room. Most often, clay mixed with straw is used.

Ceiling insulation with sawdust

But each of the natural heaters has its own significant disadvantages:

sawdust in the insulation layer often causes a fire in the bath or intensifies the fire;
sand sooner or later begins to fall on the head of the attendants;
microorganisms multiply in the ground after a short period of time, which can harm bath visitors;
clay insulation is a rather laborious process.

Bath ceilings are used as artificial heaters mineral wool, penoizol and polystyrene.

2. Mineral wool is one of the most common materials used to insulate the bath ceiling.

This is due to its benefits, including:

ease of installation;
low price;
mineral wool cannot cause a fire;
this material is not a breeding ground for microbes and a nesting site for rodents and insects.

However, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties when wet. Its ability to retain heat also decreases with time as a result of an increase in density. For the same reason, it is important not to crush the mineral wool during installation.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath

This material is produced in the form of layers or rolls.

Note! If mineral wool is used for insulation in particularly cold areas, then it is spread out in several layers.

2. Styrofoam is another popular insulating material.

This is due to its light weight and low cost, as well as a number of other positive qualities:

good sound and heat insulation;
waterproof;
microorganisms, including mold fungi, do not multiply in it.

The disadvantage of polystyrene is its fragility, easy flammability, as well as the release of gases that paralyze the respiratory system as a result of combustion.

This material is sold in the form of sheets. The thickness of the foam layer for insulating the ceiling in the bath should be 50-100 mm. To fasten the plates together and with the base, dowels, a thick cement mortar or special adhesive compositions are used.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with foam

3. An alternative to foam is penoizol. It is also called urea foam. It is a liquid substance that is sprayed onto the surface. This allows you to carefully fill all the cracks. Penoizol is an inexpensive material, and its thermal insulation properties are higher than those of classic foam plastic and mineral wool.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with penoizol

4. Along with mineral wool, expanded clay is the most popular. Its essential advantage is its natural origin. For insulation of ceilings, granules with a fraction of 5-40 mm are used.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with expanded clay

This material is environmentally friendly, non-combustible, has high noise and heat insulating properties. However, when using it, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances:

since expanded clay is hygroscopic, it is necessary to take care of steam and waterproofing;
the height of the expanded clay layer should be on average 0.2 m.

Note! Insulation of the space around the stove pipe is best done with expanded clay or mineral wool. In the latter case, the pipe must first be closed with sheet asbestos.

The choice of insulation depends not only on your preferences, but also on the way the ceiling is laid in the bath.

Bath ceiling options

To date, there are three ways to lay the ceiling in the bath:

flooring - the easiest method;
hemmed - high-quality and not very expensive ceiling;
when installing a panel ceiling, the help of 1-2 people is required, but such a ceiling system is very reliable and durable.

Bath ceiling

Step 1. At the first stage, boards 50 mm wide are laid on the ceiling from the side of the room. They should be laid very tightly, without gaps, and rest and fasten their edges to the wall of the bath.

Step 2. A layer of vapor barrier is spread on a wooden base with an overlap on the walls of the bath. If expanded clay serves as a heat-insulating material, then along the perimeter of the ceiling from the side of the roof, boards are made.

Step 3. A heater is laid on the vapor barrier. For this method, mineral wool or expanded clay is more often used.

This type of ceiling is only suitable for small baths without an attic: the width of the walls should not exceed 250 cm. Another disadvantage is the insecurity of thermal insulation from external moisture. And when replacing floor boards, the layers of vapor and thermal insulation are violated.

Hemming ceiling system

Such a ceiling, although it requires more time and money, is more reliable. At the same time, its construction is easy to produce on its own.

Step 1. Bearing beams with a section of 5 cm by 15 cm are mounted on the walls of the bath. It is also necessary to create a frame of beams around the chimney. To do this, in small beams, which are laid across the main longitudinal ones, grooves are cut out for the main beams. The frame is a square with a side length of about 380 mm

Step 2. From the inside, the ceiling is lined with eurolining or tongue and groove. When mounting the sheathing to the beams, it is better to place the fasteners not in the central part of the boards, but in the grooves.

False ceiling in the bath

Step 3. A vapor barrier is laid on the skin and fixed to the beams with a stapler. The insulation must necessarily go onto the walls by 15 cm. If you have to use several vapor barrier sheets, then the edge of one must go over another sheet for 20 cm. The joints are fastened with an aluminum film on an adhesive basis.

Step 4. Insert thermal insulation between the beams, for example, mineral wool, expanded clay and foam. If you use the latter, then the space around the chimney is covered with expanded clay. When laying mineral wool, they cut it strictly to size and try not to crush it so that this insulation does not lose its properties.

Step 5. The heat-insulating layer is covered with waterproofing, which can also be aluminum foil, polyethylene film, etc.

Step 6 Lay on top of the flooring from the boards, which are fastened with nails with a wide hat to the supporting beams.

Hemming ceiling system

If mineral wool or polystyrene is used as a heater, then the false ceiling can be assembled in the opposite direction: first, beams are installed, external flooring is attached to them, insulation is laid between the beams, a vapor barrier is attached to the beams with a stapler, then slats are mounted to the beams, on which they are fixed sheathing.

Such a ceiling is an excellent option for baths with an attic.

panel ceiling

From the name you can guess that this type of ceiling is assembled from panels. They are prepared in advance according to the scheme described below.

Step 1. Lay two beams at a distance of half a meter from each other. They must be strictly parallel. Their edges rest against the rail.

Step 2. Boards 60 cm long, tightly lying to each other, are nailed across to the beams.

Step 3. The design is turned over. It turns out a kind of box, which is lined with vapor barrier from the inside and fixed with a stapler.

You can assemble the panels completely, but it is better to stop at this stage, which will facilitate the transportation and installation of the panels.

Note! To protect the panels from distortion of the geometry during movement on the side free from boards, the slats should be nailed diagonally.

The installation of the panels can be described step by step as follows.

Step 1. A tourniquet is laid on the walls of the bath. It should also be laid on the beams if the installation will be carried out on them.

Step 2 Lay the panels one after the other.

Step 3. They put a layer of thermal insulation in them, which is covered with waterproofing.

Step 4. The space between the panels is filled with a moisture-resistant heat-insulating material, for example, felt with a layer of foil.

Step 5. From above, the panels are closed with a flooring of boards, which simultaneously connects the shields to each other.

Step 6. From the inside, the ceiling is decorated with clapboard.

This option has only one advantage - the ability to use cutting boards. Otherwise, it is much more difficult and impossible to install such a structure by one person. Therefore, experts recommend staying on a false ceiling.

In rare cases, lighting is installed on the ceiling in the bath. In the steam room, heat-resistant lamps are necessarily used. Under no circumstances should energy-saving or fluorescent lamps be used. It is best to use traditional incandescent lamps. The lamps are covered with wooden gratings that protect from contact with the lamp. But it is preferable to install lighting under the ceiling, for example, in the corners.

At this stage, the installation of the ceiling in the bath is considered complete.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath

Find out how you can install the ceiling in the bath on your own. Types of thermal insulation options for ceiling construction. Photo + Video.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath: a step-by-step guide

Special requirements are imposed on the installation of a bath ceiling, because it works in conditions of constant changes in temperature and humidity. Not only the heating time of the bath, but also the life of the entire structure depends on its correct installation. How to make a ceiling in the bath? You will learn about this from today's article.

Bath ceiling requirements

The microclimate in the bath and sauna is very different from residential premises. In the steam room, the temperature can reach 80-100 degrees, humidity - 90-98%. In addition, the bath operates in a cyclic "heating - cooling" mode, so moisture condensation in the insulation, wood deformation and other adverse processes are possible in the ceiling ceilings.

Bath ceiling height

Proper arrangement of the ceiling pie allows you to minimize the impact of harsh conditions and reduce the cost of firewood or other fuel.

The ceiling in the bath should perform several functions:

it is good to retain heat inside the steam room and washing compartment;
do not let moisture vapor into the attic;
do not emit harmful substances into the room when heated;
have fire safety;
work for a long time in conditions of high humidity and temperature.

These tasks are solved with the help of the right choice of materials and the technology of installation of floors and ceilings.

What materials are suitable for the ceiling in the bath

The choice of materials for the bath ceiling is a crucial step. Of all the variety offered on the construction market, it is necessary to choose the most reliable, environmentally friendly and fireproof.

Wood for the ceiling frame. The floors in the bath are usually made of coniferous wood, thanks to the resinous structure, it does not rot longer. In addition, softwood lumber and boards are easy to process and are not expensive. Coniferous wood is used for beams, draft ceiling, and also for the attic floor. To avoid shrinkage and the appearance of gaps, boards are best used after atmospheric or forced drying.
Wood for interior decoration. Despite all the advantages of coniferous wood, it has a drawback: at high temperatures, it releases resin droplets that can cause severe burns if it comes into contact with the skin. Therefore, hardwood boards - aspen, linden, alder are more often used for internal finishing of the ceiling in the bath. These types of wood allow you to create a special spirit in the bath, they are easy to process. Their price, however, is somewhat higher.
Vapor barrier. A prerequisite for the durability of the ceiling in a bath or sauna is a high-quality vapor barrier that prevents steam from escaping through the ceiling and ceilings into the insulation layer and the attic. You can use for this purpose glassine, film materials made of polyethylene foam, as well as various vapor barrier films - membranes. Before buying, you need to make sure that the material can be operated in conditions of high temperature up to 120 degrees.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath

What materials cannot be used?

Materials that emit harmful substances when heated are not suitable for a bath ceiling; in particular, it is:

plywood, OSB and chipboard;
polystyrene, expanded polystyrene as a heater;
mounting foam for sealing cracks;
polyethylene films not intended for operation at high temperatures.

Even in the absence of odor, these materials emit phenols and monomers. At high temperatures, the body absorbs them more actively, which can cause serious diseases up to oncology.

Materials that can not be used in the construction of the ceiling in the bath: 1. Plywood, OSB and chipboard. 2. Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene). 3. Mounting foam. 4. PET film. 5. Boards affected by fungus.

Also, you can not use a board affected by a fungus - in conditions of high humidity, it will begin to actively multiply, destroy wood and release toxins. To extend the service life, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics intended for baths and saunas - they are environmentally friendly and harmless.

The device of floors and ceilings in the bath

Ceiling ceilings and the ceiling in the bath can be made in various ways, the most popular of them:

Their device is distinguished by the materials and technologies used, and it is better to determine the type of flooring at the stage of building walls or a log house.

false ceiling

This design is used in the traditional log construction of baths and is characterized by increased strength. It is suitable for baths of any size and layout, including two-story buildings with a relaxation room in the attic.

False ceiling in the bath

The main difference between a hemmed ceiling is durable beams made of logs, the so-called mothers. They are laid on the last crown of the log house. The beams serve as a support for the attic floor and tighten the walls of the building, giving it strength. The ceiling to the beams is hemmed from below, the attic floor is equipped on top, and the space between the beams is filled with insulation.

increased strength;
good thermal insulation;
durability.

it is necessary to lay beams at the stage of wall construction;
high consumption of material.

A false ceiling can also be mounted in a frame, brick bath and a foam block building. To do this, when erecting walls, windows or grooves are left in the masonry, where beams from a log or timber are installed.

Decking ceiling

The main difference between such a ceiling is that the boards are laid on the walls or in the grooves in the log, for which a quarter of the log is cut off. There are no floor beams in this case, so the method is only suitable for baths of a small area, otherwise the boards will sag. It is difficult to arrange an attic on a flat floor; you will have to walk on a heater. In such baths, the attic is more often used as a technical room.

Floor ceiling in the bath

cheaper design;
simple construction and repair.

it is difficult to make effective insulation;
suitable only for baths and saunas of small size with an unused attic.

panel ceiling

The prefabricated structure of individual panels allows you to assemble the ceiling from scraps of the board and the remnants of insulation. Boxes are made from grooved boards, in which insulating mats are laid, they are sewn up from above. The boxes are placed on a pre-prepared frame made of a bar or board close to each other.

Features of the device panel ceiling in the bath

you can use a thinner board and trimmings, due to the prefabricated structure, the necessary rigidity and strength will be provided;
easy to replace individual elements during repairs.

rather massive construction;
joints and cracks must be carefully sealed.

The choice of ceiling design depends on the size and type of building and the availability of suitable materials.

The false ceiling is reliable and durable, so it is most often found in the construction of baths. Below is a step-by-step technology for its installation.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a false ceiling

Before starting work, you need to decide on the height of the ceiling. It is believed that for comfortable soaring, its height in a fine finish should be at least 2.2 m.

In this case, the following features must be taken into account:

a log house in the first two years can shrink up to 10-15% of the height;
the thickness of the draft ceiling is 30-50 mm;
between the draft ceiling and the finishing sheathing, a ventilation gap of 50 mm is required;
the skin thickness is 10-20 mm.

To ensure the desired height of the finishing ceiling, the floor beams must be located during the construction of the bath at a height of at least 2.5 m.

Floor device

Floor beams in classic bath construction are made from the same type of log from which a log house is laid. They are laid along the short side of the log house with a step of 1-1.5 m. The logs are cut off on both sides for the convenience of filing the draft ceiling and attic floor.
Matrices are prepared from a log: they are marked and sawn off to size, the upper and lower planes are cut off by 1/8 of the diameter.
In the logs of the upper crown - comb and mats - grooves are chosen for connecting "into a fat tail". This type of connection is generally similar to the “into a bowl” connection, but it is characterized by increased wind protection, it is less blown through due to additional spikes.
After fitting, the mats are laid in place with caulking moss, tow or interventional insulation. Mauerlats are laid on top of the last crown, on which the truss system is then mounted.

Draft ceiling lining

The draft ceiling is made of edged or tongue-and-groove coniferous boards in such a way as to ensure a minimum of gaps and cracks. When using an edged board, it is recommended to choose a quarter in it for better joining. The thickness of the board for the washing department is 25-30 mm, for the steam room - 40-50 mm.
The board is sewn to the mats from below. For a snug fit of the boards to the crowns of the log house, logs are cut off.
The bars are nailed to the resulting plane in such a way as to align them with the top and bottom of the mats. The ends of the boards of the subfloor are nailed to them, and subsequently the floor of the attic.
The draft ceiling is nailed to the mats from below, tightly joining the boards. The first board is laid close to the log house, having previously cut down the spike or the selected quarter. They fasten the boards with nails to each mat so that it does not take away or warp, use two galvanized nails for each intersection. You can use galvanized screws, having previously drilled small diameter holes in the boards. The length of the nails should be 2-3 times the thickness of the board, usually fasteners with a length of 80-90 mm are used.
Each next board is driven with a spike into the groove of the previous one and knocked out with a hammer through the bar until the lock is fully connected.
If a stove is installed in the bathhouse, the chimney of which passes through the floors, it is necessary to prepare an opening for the chimney at the stage of laying the subfloor. The mats at the place where the opening is made are cut off in the same way as the logs of the upper crown, and bars or boards are nailed to them, between which additional ceilings are mounted according to the size of the pipe penetration box.

vapor barrier

The purpose of the ceiling vapor barrier is to prevent steam from entering the steam room and washing compartment into the insulation layer. Given the high humidity in these rooms, vapor barrier must be done in compliance with all the rules, without saving on it.

When heating a bath, the ceiling can heat up to a temperature of 60-100 degrees, so vapor barrier is performed only with heat-resistant materials.

The traditional method of vapor barrier is to coat cracks and joints with a clay-sand mortar, which is also used for laying stoves. Its vapor barrier properties are not inferior to modern materials.

Make a solution like this:

fine-grained dry quarry sand is sieved through a sieve to remove debris, stones, organics;
oily oven clay is soaked for three days in water, after which the resulting solution of a semi-liquid consistency is rubbed through a sieve;
scraps and remnants of basalt or mineral fibrous insulation are crushed by hand, it gives the solution plasticity;
these components are mixed in equal proportions to a paste-like mass with a construction mixer, adding water if necessary.

With the resulting composition, the junctions of the subfloor to the log house, pipe penetration are smeared.

They also cover the draft floor from the side of the attic, the thickness of the vapor barrier layer is at least 5 cm.

Drying such a vapor barrier usually takes at least a week. This method is environmentally friendly and has been proven over the years, but not very convenient, and therefore not very popular with modern developers - they prefer to make vapor barrier with modern materials.

The fit of the subfloor boards to the log house in this case is caulked with tow or interventional insulation. For vapor barrier, any heat-resistant and vapor-tight roll material is used, for example, foil or insulating film.

It is laid on top of the subfloor with an overlap on mats of at least 10 cm, grabbing their edges with a stapler or small nails through thin wooden planks.

You can completely cover the mats from above. In this case, pieces of material are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, gluing the joints with metallized or aluminum tape.

Ceiling insulation

An important stage is the thermal insulation of the bath ceiling. It, like vapor barrier, can be made using both natural materials and modern heaters. The purpose of thermal insulation is to save firewood and time to kindle a bath, as well as to maintain a high temperature in the steam room for a long time.

To calculate the thickness of thermal insulation, there are many methods that take into account the thermal conductivity of the material, the temperature difference inside and outside the room, and other factors. However, this calculation is complicated, so developers usually use ready-made solutions based on the experience of operating baths.

Table. The thickness of the thermal insulation for the ceiling of the bath.

As can be seen from the table, natural heaters are effective only if their layer is thick enough. Therefore, when constructing an attic floor above the steam room, it is better to use modern materials.

These include clay mixed with sawdust or straw cutting, peat or black soil, expanded clay.

Advantages of using natural materials:

they are not afraid of steam and moisture - they absorb and gradually evaporate it without losing their insulating properties;
environmentally friendly;
cheap or even free.

low thermal insulation properties;
backfilling is required in a thick layer;

These materials are usually used in combination with clay vapor barrier. They are poured directly on top of the dried layer of clay putty between the mats to their upper level.

If the attic is used as a technical room, you can not cover the insulation with anything, it is not afraid of getting wet even in case of roof leaks. When equipping the attic floor, a draft floor is laid on top of the insulation and finishing is done.

A more convenient and modern way is to insulate the bath ceiling with mineral, basalt wool. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of different density and thickness. The thermal conductivity of the insulation and its ability to retain its shape depend on the density.

For insulation of horizontal surfaces, mats with a density of 30 kg/m³ or more can be used. For the bath, special heaters are produced, one side of which has a foil surface - they additionally reflect infrared radiation. Such mats or slabs are laid with the shiny side down.

Modern thermal insulation materials

Cut the mats to size with a sharp knife or scissors. Shredded scraps of material can also be used. They lay completely the entire space between the mats, observing the recommended layer thickness. If plates are used, they are laid in a checkerboard pattern, overlapping the joints of the previous row.

Mineral and basalt wool must be covered with a layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing. Even with a single wetting, the fibers stick together, the cotton wool settles and ceases to retain heat.

Insulation waterproofing

It is laid on top of the insulation under the draft floor of the attic room or as the top layer of the ceiling cake in a non-residential attic. As a waterproofing, it is better to use modern non-woven membranes with one-sided vapor permeability - they let moisture vapor out of the insulation, but do not allow water to penetrate into the insulation from the outside.

Membranes on the modern market are presented in a huge assortment, their characteristics are similar, so you can choose any that is suitable for the price and properties. The waterproofing is spread over the insulation and mats with an overlap on the Mauerlats and the upper logs of the log house, placing the film with the pattern up.

The strips are joined with an overlap of at least 10 cm. The waterproofing is attached to the mats with a stapler, strips of construction tape are glued over the attachment point. The joints are also insulated with tape.

Arrangement of the draft floor of the attic

The floor in the attic is made if they plan to use it as a room for drying and storing brooms or as a summer room. For the subfloor, an edged board with a thickness of 25-40 mm of coniferous species is used. It is hammered onto mats with nails, 2 nails for each intersection.

A mandatory gap is left along all walls for ventilation of the insulation, its width is 2-2.5 cm. Any finishing coating, for example, a laminate, can be placed on top of the subfloor. In this case, the ventilation gap must also be observed. For a technical attic, a subfloor is enough.

Laying ceiling technology - features

To make a flooring ceiling, thicker boards are used that can withstand the load of insulation. As a rule, a grooved or edged board of 50-60 mm is used for this purpose. It is laid on top of the log house in the groove selected in the logs of the upper crown.

The boards are laid, tightly knocking to each other. The vapor barrier is fixed from the bottom of the draft ceiling with a stapler, after which it is sheathed with clapboard or a thin edged board. In this case, the insulation is laid out over the draft ceiling and covered with waterproofing, which is attached to the stapler to the Mauerlat and the upper crown of the log house.

Bath ceiling interior

With the help of interior decoration, they hide the flaws of the draft ceiling and give the bath design and beauty.. It should be noted right away that a well-fitted draft ceiling can be used without sheathing, but most developers prefer to finish the ceiling at the same time as wall sheathing.

Clapboard ceiling lining

For ceiling cladding, hardwood lining is most often used: aspen, linden or alder. It has a light aroma of wood, which allows you to create a unique aroma in the bath. Lining choose category A or B - they do not have knots, through holes, or other defects.

Bars 50x50 or 40x60 mm are attached to the draft ceiling over the mats with 120 mm nails. For better vapor barrier, the draft ceiling is additionally sheathed with foil vapor barrier, fixing it over the boards and the bar with a stapler. The joints are glued with aluminum tape.

Gluing seams with aluminum tape

The lining is attached to the bars with the help of finishing nails or galvanized self-tapping screws. A ventilation gap is left from the edge of the walls, which, after sheathing the walls, is closed with a plinth. Through this gap, the space between the sheathing and the draft ceiling is ventilated, which allows you to extend the life of the lining.

So that the sheathing board does not change color and does not darken from moisture, it is recommended to treat it with 1-2 layers of varnish or impregnation for baths and saunas. The compositions for the bath are made on a water basis, so that they do not form a film, and the tree breathes. You can also use flaxseed oil.

A properly installed ceiling in a bathhouse lasts at least 20 years without the need for replacement. Moisture does not linger in it, condensate quickly evaporates due to the sustained ventilation gap. Experts recommend inspecting the ceiling every six months in order to notice a violation of the vapor barrier layer, darkening and decay of wood in time and carry out timely repairs. In this case, the bath will give you health and good mood for many years.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath - step by step guide and tips

Learn how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands - a step-by-step guide to arranging a ceiling, choosing materials, tips, photos + videos.

All building elements of the bath should perform two main functions: to be beautiful and to retain heat as much as possible. The temperature in the steam room can reach +100°C, such indicators put forward the highest requirements for the technology and materials for the construction of premises. Otherwise, they will have to be warmed up for a long time before washing, and the washing procedure itself should be performed “at an accelerated pace”, while the temperature in the rooms is comfortable.

Heat losses through ceiling coverings can reach 40% or more of the total, which explains why during the preparation of bath project documentation, such important attention is paid to ceiling sheathing. There are several options for sheathing bath ceilings, in this article we will focus on one of the most versatile and effective - a false ceiling.

As an example, we will consider the most commonly used option: pressed mineral wool 100 mm thick is used for insulation, aluminum foil vapor protection, polyethylene film waterproofing. The interior finish of the ceiling is natural lining, the top covering of the ceiling is a grooved board 35 mm thick. The dimensions of the ceiling beams are 50 × 150 mm. Such dimensions and a list of building materials make it possible to convert the attic of the bath into an attic.

Video - False ceiling in the bath

You can also use other materials, use modern innovative membranes as vapor and hydro protection.

In terms of their physical characteristics, the new materials outperform the "older brothers" by ten percent, and the price is 1.5÷2 times more expensive. What material to choose in each case should be decided by each developer independently.

A few words need to be said about bulk heaters. We do not recommend taking them during the insulation of the ceilings of the bath, the effectiveness of these materials does not fully meet modern requirements for bath rooms.

Step 1. Measure the room and calculate the amount of materials.

Arithmetic calculations are easy to do, multiply the length of the room by its width and increase the result by 5 ÷ 7% (inevitable unproductive waste).

During measurements, pay attention to the symmetry of the ceiling. Sometimes there are cases when inept or unscrupulous builders do not respect the angles, the room is not square, but diamond-shaped. It is necessary to correct the marriage during the ceiling sheathing, you will have to cut the lining near the wall at an angle. Decide which wall to do this so that it is invisible.

There will be no big problems in the steam room and in the shower room, but you will have to think about the optimal solution for leveling the ceiling in the rest room. It is necessary to take into account the furniture, the location of windows and doors. General advice - an uneven ceiling sheathing board should be in the darkest place in the room. If the non-parallelism of the walls has rather large values, then the error should be divided by two walls, the spread in the width of the ceiling should be slightly compensated for one wall, and a little for the opposite.

Step 2 Mineral wool must be protected from the penetration of steam.

Or rather, not from steam, but from water condensate. The physical properties of heat-saving mineral wool are beyond praise, but it “works” so well only under one condition - the wool is dry. Water, like any liquid, is a good conductor of heat, even its slight presence in cotton wool drastically worsens performance. Steam condenses only when the surface temperature drops to the dew point. This is an unstable indicator, it depends on both temperature and relative humidity. The higher the air humidity, the higher the dew point and vice versa.

In the vast majority of cases, the dew point will be in the thickness of the mineral wool, it can be at a height of two, five or nine centimeters, it does not matter, but always in the mineral wool. This means that condensation will form in the heater.

In addition to the loss of heat-shielding characteristics, moistening of mineral wool has another very unpleasant consequence. Due to the fact that the diameter of the cotton wool fibers is not more than 6 microns, the movement of air in the material is very difficult. As a result, water that has entered the cotton wool cannot evaporate naturally for a long time. Wet cotton wool adheres tightly to wooden structures; in such conditions, they have high humidity for a long time. High humidity and temperature are the worst enemies of all lumber.

Wet mineral wool is the worst enemy for wood

Vapor protection allows to prevent such negative phenomena.

It must be nailed with an overlap, the overlap of the strips is at least 10 centimeters, the joints must be sealed with a special film or tape. In other rooms of the bath, the use of cheaper options for vapor protection is allowed. It is necessary to consider a few more contentious issues of the correct implementation of the vapor barrier.

There are tips to lay the vapor barrier from the side of the attic onto the already nailed ceiling lining. We do not recommend doing this for three reasons.

The first is that the ceiling beams of the floor in this case are not protected from the effects of steam. This negatively affects the time of their operation.
The second - the consumption of vapor barrier material increases. The distance between the ceiling beams is not more than a meter, the thickness is 50 mm, the height is 150 mm. Now count their number and multiply by the surface area of each. You yourself will be surprised how much extra expensive vapor barrier material you have to buy.
Third, the risks of violating its integrity increase. Aluminum foil, to put it mildly, is not very durable, and ceiling beams are not very clean surfaces. There are real risks of tearing the foil during installation or when filling the space with mineral wool. Other vapor barrier materials, too, in terms of physical tensile strength, wish the best.

Many people are concerned about the question: should I make a small clearance for ventilation between the lining of the ceiling and the vapor barrier?

There are tips for ventilation to the beams on top of the steam protection to nail slats with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 centimeters, and to them already fix the lining of the finishing sheathing. Thus, a gap is made for ventilation between the ceiling and the vapor barrier. At first glance, everything is correct. But this is only at first glance.

Consider the need to perform such an operation in more detail.

Firstly, there is no natural ventilation in the space between the ceiling sheathing and the vapor barrier layer. There are no slots for air inflow from below, no slots for its exit from above. The lining sweatily closes the technological slots, and a ceiling plinth is nailed along the perimeter of the ceiling.
Secondly, we have already said above that the temperature regime of the bath rooms “transfers” the dew point to the thermal insulation layer, and almost no condensate appears on the insulation.
And, thirdly, sheets of mineral wool will be laid on top, they will inevitably put pressure on the aluminum film, and it breaks very easily, the whole point of the vapor barrier is lost.

These are our beliefs, the decision is yours.

Step 3. Start nailing the lining at the wall farthest from the front door.

Depending on the accuracy of the dimensions of the ceiling, the lining can be cut off in length all at once or customized for each board separately. There are two ways to fasten boards: in a groove with small nails about two centimeters long or in a wide plane with nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long.

The connection in the groove is imperceptible, looks more attractive. But to do it is more difficult, you need to gain a little experience. The fact is that if for some reason the groove cracks, then the strength of fixing the ceiling is significantly reduced. And it is no longer possible to drive another carnation next to it. For simple fastening of the lining, it is better to use galvanized nails. The boards must be pressed, make sure that the tenon / groove connection is evenly tight along the entire length of the room.

Do you have experience doing this kind of work? We advise you to beat off several parallel lines on the ceiling beams with a blued rope. These lines will allow you to constantly monitor the position of the lining and timely correct emerging deviations. Due to a small and almost imperceptible displacement in the tenon / groove assembly, it is possible to correct a parallelism error of 1.5 ÷ 2 centimeters after ten rows of lining. That's enough.

Step 4 When one board remains before the completion of the upholstery of the ceiling, take repeated measurements. The last board in all cases must be adjusted separately.

Sauna foil prices

bath foil

Video - Finishing the ceiling with clapboard

Step 5 Nail the ceiling moldings around the perimeter of the room.

At 90 ° corners, a 90 ° cut can be made using an ordinary fixture, it is very cheap and is sold in every hardware store. If you don’t have it, you can make it yourself from flat boards about 10 centimeters wide and up to a centimeter thick.

Problems can arise if the corners in the room are not rectangular, in which case all ceiling skirting boards must be adjusted individually.

How it's done?

On this, the work from the steam room is completed, it's time to move to the attic.

Prices for putty for wood

putty for wood

Stages of ceiling sheathing from the side of the attic of the bath

There are options for insulation with foam or bulk materials, but their performance properties are inferior to cotton wool. If even during the construction of the bath, the dimensions of the pressed cotton wool were taken into account, you are lucky, the insulation will be completed quickly and with the proper quality. The distances between the centers of the ceiling beams must be taken by builders, taking into account the width of the mineral wool.

On each side, the free area is reduced by 2.5 centimeters with a beam thickness of 5 centimeters. At this value, the mineral wool sheets of the bases of the problems are compressed and provide a snug fit.

How to make insulation?

Step 1. Bring insulating material, rolls of waterproofing and boards for the top coating into the attic of the bath. If the attic is planned to be made exploitable, then floorboards with a thickness of at least 35 mm should be taken. You can, of course, make more complex flooring options with a subfloor and a soft floor or laminate finish, but we recommend this arrangement option.

Step 2 Mineral wool is perfectly cut with a mounting construction knife. Place a piece of flat board on the bottom of the cotton wool and cut the material according to the given dimensions. The movements of the knife should not only be progressive, but also up / down.

Cotton wool is not cut, but torn? There can be two reasons: you are trying to cut it too fast, or the edge of the knife has dulled. Professional builders have a special electric machine for cutting, but amateurs should not buy it - it will cost too much.

Step 3 The dimensions of the sheet should be 2 ÷ 3 centimeters larger than the free niche on the ceiling. The thickness of mineral wool is not less than 10 centimeters. Place the insulation tightly, without gaps, without significant damage to the mineral wool.

Step 4 During the work, you can only walk on the floor beams, this is quite inconvenient. There are two options for insulation. First, lay the entire insulation, then lay the waterproofing over the entire area, and finally lay the floorboards or work in parts. You can put a heater about one and a half meters wide, immediately close it with a waterproofing layer and nail the boards and continue with such “jerks” over the entire surface of the ceiling. Both methods are almost equivalent, choose the most convenient for yourself.

Step 5 The top boards, in the case of an attic space used, are best taken veneered. During laying, you need to use special devices to tightly pull the boards to each other. Natural wood, if the manufacturer does not comply with the technology, warps after drying, without special devices it will not be possible to trim and tighten it tightly.

On this, work on the installation of a false ceiling is considered completed. But even here life can make its own changes. If you have solved all the problems with the chimneys before starting work with the ceilings, then at the same time with the sheathing there is nothing difficult to make their conclusion in the ceilings. There is a situation: you have already started using the bathhouse or have already completely sheathed the ceilings, as at someone's prompt you decided to make a beautiful functional fireplace in the relaxation room or put an additional decorative heating stove.

What to do if the ceiling is already sheathed with clapboard in all rooms of the bath? How to remove the chimney in accordance with all the rules? A stove-maker has come and is waiting for you to draw a chimney on the ceiling for him. How to deal with it “in a good way” and without large unforeseen financial losses?

The situation is unpleasant, but not tragic.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Step 1. Find out where the stove maker plans to install the chimney. You must set a condition for the master - the distance between the walls of the chimney and the ceiling beams must be at least 20 centimeters. Let him think about how to mark the furnace and its components in order to withstand fire safety requirements.

Step 2 Draw a square on the ceiling for the dimensions of the chimney, the parameters of the square must exceed the parameters of the chimney by at least 20 cm around the entire perimeter.

Step 3 Cut a hole from the side of the bath room. This is much easier to do with an electric jigsaw. In the corner of the square, drill a hole for the jigsaw knife with a drill, insert it into this hole and cut the sheathing boards along the line.

If there is no electric jigsaw, it is quite convenient to work with a circular grinder (grinder), but instead of a stone, insert a disc with victorious teeth. Work with a small light grinder, the diameter of the disc should be no more than 250 mm. The rest of the work needs to be done from the side of the attic. Pick up your tools and materials there.

We are preparing a place for the chimney passage through the ceiling. This is what the hole will look like

Step 4 It is required to transfer the dimensions and location of the hole for the chimney to the attic floor. This is done simply. Using a drill, drill four holes in the floor covering at the corners of the opening. Drilling should be done from the side of the interior, try to keep the tool in a vertical position. Before starting work, you need to carefully cut off and remove the mineral wool around the perimeter of the opening. From the side of the attic, draw the size of the opening using the existing holes in the corners and cut out the boards.

Step 5 Now you need to fix the ends of the cut boards, otherwise they will always sag. The cut ends of the boards should be especially carefully fixed in the attic, because there you plan to make an exploitable room. To do this, you will have to make a supporting frame from boards 50 × 150 mm around the perimeter of the opening.

Step 6. Remove the distances between the ceiling beams adjacent to the opening, cut two pieces of boards 50 × 150 mm to these dimensions.

Step 7 Attach line segments to beams. You'll have to sweat a little, because the frame has to be done with an existing finish. For fixing, use long self-tapping screws, put an extension on the head under the sprocket. This will make it possible to mount under the floor boards. In order for the self-tapping screws to twist more easily, prepare holes in the wooden elements for them. The diameter of the holes should be one millimeter smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. During fixing, firmly hold the parts in the desired position, make sure that the pieces of boards during fastening do not fall below the level of the floor beams. Fasten two short ones to the installed long jumpers on the other sides of the opening for the chimney.

Step 8 After the stove maker completes the stove chimney, from the side of the rest room, put in place mineral wool around the entire perimeter of the chimney. Cover the opening with sheet metal, preferably galvanized steel. From the side of the attic, the holes are also closed with sheet metal.

Prices for a disc with victorious teeth

disc with victorious teeth

Conclusion

In the article, we considered only one of the many existing options for arranging false ceilings. You should not take our advice as a dogma, every builder has his own secrets of doing work, everyone manages to do something better than others taught him. This is great, try and you can improve and change the technology of work to suit your personal needs, capabilities and preferences. However, before any change in the technology we recommend, think carefully, try to anticipate the consequences of your decisions several steps ahead. What is written in this article is based not only on positive experience, but also on mistakes made “out of inexperience”.

Bath is a place where you want to spend time in comfort. In order to achieve such an effect, it is necessary to responsibly approach the installation of this rather complex structure, which provides for non-standard conditions during use. In particular, in the built bath, it is necessary to competently approach the question of how to sheathe the ceiling in the bath inside, to its insulation, sound insulation and waterproofing.

The fact is that the wrong arrangement of the ceiling space in the bath, the fuel consumption for heating, the microclimate in the heated bath and the duration of its heating will be very long and large. It is in order to reduce and improve these indicators that it is necessary to make a high-quality ceiling.

Preparation for the arrangement of the ceiling

Immediately before the start of finishing the ceiling in the bath, it is necessary to carefully prepare the project in order to avoid mistakes or undesirable consequences in the future.

The ceiling in the bath must meet several requirements:

Serve as a heat insulator;
Look nice;
Do not give out fumes that spoil the pleasure of going to the bath;
Have a long service life;
Serve as a layer of thermal insulation against moisture.

Before arranging the ceiling, you must also decide on its height. For most modern bath rooms, a height of about 2.5 m is ideal. For bath structures made of wood, there is also a gap, as the material shrinks.

After that, you need to decide on the materials with which the ceiling will be finished, the necessary lighting and the installation method of the selected finish.

Options for finishing materials

The most commonly used means of finishing the ceiling space of the bath room is wood. The most commonly used panels are from species such as aspen or linden. The fact is that they contain less resin than conifers. Due to this, the panels have increased sound insulation and heat resistance, as well as significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of the material.

In addition, at first, the resins in the facing material can melt at high temperatures and cause inconvenience to people who soar.

It is important that the cladding elements are of high quality, without defects and well dried.

It is also necessary to treat the ceiling inside the room with antiseptic compounds in order to avoid the formation of mold and fungus that are dangerous to human health.

The vapor barrier material can be a thick polyethylene film or aluminum foil. Of the modern types of finishes, construction stores offer penoplex or isospan. Here the choice is only for the owners.

Among other things, the ceiling space must be insulated. There are many decent options out there.

Insulation options

Old methods - clay, sand, sawdust

Many, taking care of the environmental friendliness of the bath room, decide to cover the ceiling in the bath with such old methods as clay, sawdust, sand or mixtures of various natural materials.

Despite the fact that such methods are very effective, they have a number of disadvantages. For example, sand will eventually begin to fall on the heads of steaming people, and rodents and insects that harm a person can settle in clay and sawdust.

New methods - mineral wool, foam plastic, penoizol

Modern materials presented in the construction markets and in stores are polystyrene foam, penoizol, mineral wool.

Mineral wool

Most often, mineral wool is used to warm the bath room. And this is not surprising: it is extremely easy to install, inexpensive, fireproof, microbes do not breed in it and insects and rodents do not nest. In addition, it is very lightweight. That allows you to mount it with your own hands alone.

A significant disadvantage of this material is only its fear of moisture. When wet, mineral wool loses all of its thermal insulation properties. Also, when deformed during transportation or during installation, mineral wool will also become worse in terms of performance.

Foam boards are also very popular for warming the ceiling space in the bathhouse. This is due to its light weight, easy installation, good sound and heat insulation, low cost, water resistance and other excellent performance.

The main and significant disadvantage of such a material is its fragility and easy flammability, as well as the release of gas dangerous to the human body during combustion. These properties make its use undesirable in bath rooms.

Penoizol

Penoizol is an alternative to polystyrene offered by modern construction markets and shops. This type of insulation is a substance in liquid form, which is sprayed onto the surface of the ceiling.

The main advantage of such a heater is its ability to fill all the cracks and cracks on the ceiling surface. This is a relatively inexpensive method of thermal insulation, and its performance properties are much higher than those of polystyrene and mineral wool.

Ceiling installation options

There are three ways to arrange the ceiling in the bath:

Decking ceiling;
Suspended ceiling;
Panel ceiling.

Decking ceiling

This is the simplest and fairly cheap option for decorating the ceiling space. But this finish option also has a number of disadvantages. For example, it is suitable only for small rooms, no more than 2.5 meters wide. And also it is not possible to equip an attic on the roof with such a finish.

But, if you still decide to make the ceiling in your own bathhouse in this way, you need to follow some technology.

The first step in installing the flooring should be laying boards 50 mm wide. Laying should take place tightly, between the boards there should be no gaps and cracks. Boards are securely attached to the walls of the bath room.
After laying the plank wooden base, a vapor barrier layer is laid. It is important to lay it with an overlap on the walls of the bath room, approximately 15 - 20 cm.
The selected insulation is laid on the vapor barrier layer. Most often, mineral wool or expanded clay is used here, but everyone is free to choose the material on their own, depending on their own preferences.

This completes the installation of the floor ceiling in the bath room. This is a quick and easy way to finish, which is suitable for small bath rooms and steam rooms.

false ceiling

This design method requires more time and money will be a little more expensive than the flooring option, but this will more than pay off with its reliability and durability, as well as excellent performance. At the same time, the construction of such a ceiling can be easily done with your own hands.

The installation scheme involves several important steps:

Firstly, a supporting crate with a section of 5x15 cm is mounted on the walls of the bath room. The chimney is also lined with a frame of beams. Upon completion of work around the entire perimeter of the ceiling, a supporting frame of beams should be obtained, securely fixed to the walls and beams.
Secondly, the ceiling is lined with eurolining. Fasteners in this case are best placed in the grooves. And not in the middle of the lining.
Then a vapor barrier layer is laid on the eurolining, which is fastened with a stapler to the supporting beams. The insulating layer must necessarily overlap the walls of the room by about 15 cm. If several layers of insulating material are laid, the next layer must be 20 cm larger than the previous one.
After that, lay out a layer of insulation between the beams.
The thermal insulation layer is covered with a waterproofing layer, for example, aluminum foil or polyethylene film.
From above, a flooring of boards is installed, which must be fixed to the load-bearing beams with nails with a wide hat.

After all the manipulations, the ceiling is ready. It is noteworthy that the scheme can be changed and the work can be carried out exactly the opposite. This finish option will be ideal for baths with an attic space.

panel ceiling

This type of finish involves laying panels on the surface of the ceiling. It also assumes several steps for the manufacture of such a ceiling:

Two beams are laid on the surface parallel to each other and at a distance of 0.5 meters from each other. The edges of the beams should rest against the rail.
Boards 60 cm long are nailed across the beams to the beams. The boards should fit snugly against each other.
The structure is turned over and lined with vapor barrier from the inside.
Then a tourniquet is laid on the walls of the bath; when attaching to the beams, the tourniquet must also be installed on them.
The panels are stacked one behind the other.
A heat-insulating layer is inserted, which is covered with a waterproofing layer.
The gaps between the panels are laid out with a moisture-resistant heat-insulating material.
From above, the panels are covered with a boardwalk, which also connects the shields to each other.
Inside the room, the ceiling is decorated with eurolining.

This finishing option is very time consuming and it is impossible to produce it only on our own, you will need 1 - 2 assistants. In addition, this finishing option is more time-consuming than other options.

If the ceiling in the bath involves the use of an attic space. Do not forget about the presence of a hatch with a retractable or attached ladder;
Finishing the ceiling should be done after finishing the floor, but before finishing the walls;
The ceiling is the most vulnerable place in a steam room, so special attention should be paid to its thermal insulation;
The first plank of the ceiling trim must be laid perfectly, as it serves as a guide for the rest of the planks.

Bathroom ceiling lighting

A modern bath room also implies the presence of lamps in the steam room. It is important to consider here that the lamps must be heat-resistant.

The use of energy-saving lamps and fluorescent lamps is strictly prohibited. The most preferred option are incandescent lamps.

Remember to install wooden protective boxes near the lamps to protect against contact. The best solution would be to install lamps under the ceiling, preferably in the corners of the room.

So, we examined several types of ceiling decoration in the bath with our own hands. All of them have their pros and cons, and are also diverse in terms of pricing and installation time.

Only the owners of the bath room decide which ceiling is suitable. The choice of materials for finishing the ceiling space in the bath also depends entirely on the preferences of the consumer.

So what is better to make the ceiling in the bath? Experienced craftsmen still recommend paying close attention to the option of a false ceiling. This is a fairly simple and cheap finish. Which can be easily built on your own, with only some skills and a small set of tools available in every home.

home > Food production

Make a ceiling flooring in an ordinary wooden bath. Cover and ceiling

hemmed

Grazing

Panel

Ceiling vapor barrier

Material selection

Fine lining of the steam room and dressing room

thermal insulation

Work order

Rules for arranging the ceiling in the bath

Material selection

Work order

How to make a ceiling in the bath with your own hands correctly

The main requirements for the ceiling in the steam room

false ceiling

Installation work

Dedovskaya "method of ceiling insulation

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath

How to start arranging the ceiling in the bath?

Bath ceiling options

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bath: a step-by-step guide

Bath ceiling requirements

What materials are suitable for the ceiling in the bath

The device of floors and ceilings in the bath

Step-by-step instructions for installing a false ceiling

Laying ceiling technology - features

Bath ceiling interior

Video - False ceiling in the bath

Sauna foil prices

Video - Finishing the ceiling with clapboard

Prices for putty for wood

Stages of ceiling sheathing from the side of the attic of the bath

Mineral wool prices

Prices for a disc with victorious teeth

Conclusion

Preparation for the arrangement of the ceiling

Options for finishing materials

Insulation options

Old methods - clay, sand, sawdust

New methods - mineral wool, foam plastic, penoizol

Ceiling installation options

Decking ceiling

false ceiling

panel ceiling

Bathroom ceiling lighting

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