Homemade winches driven by a bicycle. Idea for making a hand winch from an old bike

The winch is an indispensable device, both in the household and in the garage. Raise a roll of roofing material onto the roof, throw a couple of bags of cement into the window of the second floor of a private house under construction, pull the engine out of the bonnet space, and drag the broken car itself into the garage ... This is an incomplete list of things that you can easily do alone with her help.

Drum-type devices for lifting or moving heavy loads differ in the way they transmit torque. From the school physics course, we know how the shoulder works. Losing in speed or distance - we win in strength. The phrase of Archimedes: “Give me a fulcrum, and I will turn the Earth over” just describes the principle of the winch.

IMPORTANT! When working with such a device, the fulcrum is the body and the place where the winch is attached. Both elements must be reliable.

A hand winch, with the help of an attached shoulder, increases human strength so much that one operator can move cars or lift loads of several hundred kilograms. With the same (from the point of view of mechanics) principle of operation, these devices have different ways of execution.

Manual drum winch - varieties

A hand winch with a drum is a classic of the genre. In addition to the common element - the pulley on which the cable is wound, the devices have different types of drive.

A large, main gear is firmly attached to the drum. On it, and on the mount, the entire load falls. Therefore, the reliability of the elements must be at the proper level. In engagement with the main gear, there is a small drive gear.

The ratio of the number of teeth is the value of the gear ratio. In other words, the amplification factor. The drive gear is integral with the drive shaft. Since we are talking about a hand tool, a handle is put on the shaft for rotation.

The length of the lever also affects the degree of reinforcement. The larger the lever arm, the less effort must be applied.

With the help of such devices, you can lift several centners of cargo alone or move a car weighing 2-3 tons. At the same time, the rotation speed of the drum is quite high.

The design consists of two or more pairs of gears, each of which has a gain factor of tens of times. With sequential engagement, these coefficients add up, multiplying the force.

The reverse side of the coin is a proportional reduction in speed. With such a winch, you can carry out a slow vertical lifting of loads of more than a ton, but if you have to work with two bags of cement, the lifting time will stretch for tens of minutes.

There are many ideas for different crafts based on a bicycle, its individual parts. There are among them related to household work, in particular, tillage in household plots. The device in the form of a winch, powered by a bicycle drive, is simple, allows you to perform plowing, hilling, loosening operations for one person, without much tiring him.

For the manufacture of a bicycle winch, you need a road bike of a conventional design with a closed frame. You will need: a broken engine from a moped, for example, type D-6; large bicycle sprocket; a hub from a moped wheel together with an axle; metal corners, tubes, sheet.

The bike is not modified; only the chain lengthens.

They make a small alteration of the moped engine. Cut out the top wall of the cover and crankcase above the drive sprocket. They do this between the bosses, leaving them and the existing thread. On a lathe, the thickness of the sprocket ring gear is reduced to 2.6 mm - this is necessary in order to be able to place a bicycle chain on it.

The crankshaft is pressed, the connecting rod is removed, and everything is pressed again. The existing bearings are filled with graphite grease. They make a cover from a sheet of metal and close it with a place where the cylinder is attached. The crankshaft will play the role of a flywheel in the craft.

The converted motor is attached to the bicycle frame, in its upper part. Arrange it downward with an asterisk. The chain is lengthened so that it can span three sprockets - two that are on a bicycle and one in a converted moped engine.

On the handlebar of a bicycle, on the left side, they install a handle, draw a cable from it to the motor. It controls the clutch.

The converted bike is suitable for normal riding. To start moving, you need to disengage the clutch. When the road goes downhill, then it is turned on - the flywheel begins to rotate and store energy, which will help to overcome the climbs in the future.

A converted bike can be used to make a winch that will be used for household chores. In place of its rear wheel, an attachment is placed, consisting of a frame carrying a winch drum equipped with an asterisk and a cable. It is also equipped with lugs and a cable laying loop.

The drum is made from a moped wheel hub, to which round metal flanges are attached on the sides. Equipped with a large bicycle sprocket.

There are two grousers. They are made using pieces of corners 12 cm long. The outer edges of the shelves are sharpened, which provides them with easy entry into the ground. The corners are welded to the edges of a half-meter segment of the corner, which serves as a support on the surface of the earth.

A soft wire is used for the cable laying loop. It is attached to the frame so that the cable in a taut state lies in the middle of the surface of the drum.

The prefix is ​​attached to the bike in two places: with a pin at the place where the rear wheel is installed; clamps covering two frame tubes in the gap between the first mount and the carriage with pedals.

First, the lower part of the attachment is assembled using welding. Then an axle is attached to it, on which the winch drum is installed. The upper part is placed on top and fixed to the bicycle frame. In this case, the chain is pre-installed on all three sprockets.

Hello!

I have long wanted to buy a winch. None of the store options priced up to 3000 rubles. did not inspire confidence, and for a long time I thought about ways to make a winch myself.

Somehow I found information on the Internet that you can take a brake ratchet from a truck as a basis. The advantages of such a winch - no stopper is needed, it works in both directions.

In addition to the standard set of tools, you will need electric welding.

Winch Application

Such a winch will help not only on the road, or rather off-road, but also in the garage. With its help, you can independently tighten a faulty car into the garage, onto a mini overpass (2 boards and 2 stumps), it will also help you lift or lower the weight into the basement, remove the engine from the car.

Materials for manufacturing

• Ratchet az9100440005 - 587 rubles
• Pulley 21013701051 2x116 R. \u003d 232 rubles.
• Rope 10 m x 30 r. = 300 r.

Disassembly of the Chinese ratchet

To begin with, the cheapest ratchet for a Chinese truck was ordered. After receiving and inspecting this part, I began to think about further actions.

To begin with, I cut down the rivets and removed the covers. I also unscrewed the cork and pulled out the spring and the ball from there - it was a worm stopper, it will no longer be needed.

Winch manufacturing

It was decided to make two drums for uniform winding of the cable. For the manufacture of drum cheeks, collapsible pulleys of the VAZ generator were purchased.
Although you can make such washers yourself, but I liked this option more. Bearings were not needed.

I also bought a 10m cable.

I couldn’t find a shaft with the corresponding slots, and I didn’t really look for it, so I just decided to make a shaft from a tube and weld it into the gear.

The shaft was inserted into the gear with a gap, in order to choose it, I decided to make a spacer from a thin-walled tube.

I cut out a centering insert from a thin-walled tube.

This is what the shaft looks like.

I welded the shaft to the gear, cooled the whole structure in working out. The rivet holes were threaded for screws.

Now it was necessary to expand the holes in the inner cheeks of the drums, for this we need a turner. Or a good driller)

Cheeks prepared for installation.

To reduce the size of the structure, the heads of the screws were sawn almost to the root, which gave a savings of 11 mm and a significant reduction in the amount of dirt that gets between the cheeks and the ratchet body.

And the dirt that gets there anyway will come back when the mechanism is injected. With the help of fragments of a cutting wheel 1 mm thick, I leveled the gap between the cheeks and the body and scalded it.

It turned out something like this.

Painted a little for looks.

First winding of rope. While manually, it is unlikely that it will be wound as neatly in work.

I decided to adjust the length of the cable by simply pulling the excess to the side. Soldered the ends of the cable and slightly bent.

At first I wanted to find some kind of block for the cable, but I decided to make just a leveler with a hook, because. the cable is wound almost evenly.

For the cable guides, I decided to use inner races from single row ball bearings.

Having sawn the outer clips, he removed the inner clips, for some reason sawing them too.

I decided to weld the guides to the strip.

On the reverse side, I welded a hook, having previously selected a position in which the place of the hook hook will be in line with the guides.

Painted for looks.

Decided to do a little test.

I didn’t dig in on purpose, but such a winch pulls a stalled car. If you need more effort, then at one end of the cable you can make a loop and throw it on the drum. Instead of an equalizer, use a block. Thus, one side of the cable will be wound, the other will slide along the drum. In this case, the block will give double traction.

Readers of "M-K" have long been familiar with the enthusiast of home-made tillage equipment, an amateur designer from Nizhny Tagil, Grigory Ivanovich ODEGOV. After all, it was he who managed to develop one of the most efficient motor winches, which in terms of performance surpasses motor blocks, motor cutters and even micro tractors. And this despite the fact that the engine of the Odegov motor winch is just the power unit of an old Vyatka.

Today we present you two foot operated bike winches. One of them was developed by G.I. Odegov, and the other is a modernized version of Grigory Ivanovich's winch, designed in the Evrika creative laboratory.

According to the designer of the bike winch, a pedal-driven tillage unit is much more efficient than both a shovel and a towed plow driven by one or two people.

Pedal winch G.I. Odegova is arranged as follows. It is based on a light tubular frame on which a drum is mounted, the cheeks of which are ratchet wheels. Rocking pedals with ratchet latches are mounted on the same axis. Both pedals have springs that return each to the top position. The ratchet latches are also spring loaded.

The frame of the winch is welded from steel pipes with a diameter of 22…32 mm. The drum is a piece of pipe with an outer diameter of about 300 mm, to which two steel disks with a diameter of 380 mm and a thickness of about 4 mm are welded. To turn these discs into ratchets, G.I. Odegov cut asymmetric teeth along the circumference of each - the depth of each is about 5 mm and the pitch is about 10 mm. In principle, the work could be somewhat facilitated by cutting through every second triangular cavity - this is quite enough for the normal operation of the ratchet mechanism.

In principle, it would be possible to make a simpler ratchet, as shown in our drawings. To do this, on the side surface of each of the cheeks of the drum, holes with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm are drilled along the circumference. Of course, this also changes the design of the ratchet, as shown in the figure of the modernized bike winch.

The levers of the pedal drive of such a unit are welded, made of steel pipes of round or rectangular section. On one side of each of the levers, a sleeve is welded - a piece of steel pipe with an inner diameter of 20 mm, on the other - the axis of the pedals. The latter are easiest to pick up ready-made - from a bicycle, although it is not too difficult to make home-made ones by bending a steel strip about 3 mm thick in the shape of the letter P. When using homemade pedals as axles, you can use threaded studs welded on the outside of each of the pedal arms.

The axis of the drum and levers of the pedal drive is a steel rod with a diameter of 20 mm, the ends of which are machined to a length of 30 mm and threaded M14.

1 - drum cheek, 2 - drive lever, 3 - pedal, 4 - cable, 5 - longitudinal frame element, 6 - latch, 7 stand, 8 - brace, 9 - anchor, 10 - rear cross member, 11 - drum, 12 - front cross member, 13 - drum bushing, 14 - liners, 15 - drive lever hub, 16 - nut with washers, 17 - axle of the drum and winch drive levers, 18 - flange, 19 - ratchet pawl, 20 - ratchet spring, 21 - ear, 22 - return spring of the drive lever.

The drum of the modernized winch is a piece of steel pipe with an outer diameter of 300 mm, to which two steel disks 3 mm thick and 380 mm in diameter are welded. Holes with a diameter of 30 mm are drilled in the center of each of the disks, and nylon bushings are pressed into them (fluoroplastic, textolite or bronze can also be used).