We dismantle a Chinese alarm clock worth $1. How to choose and assemble a clock mechanism Wall clocks on batteries do not work

An antique chiming wall clock is the quintessence of precision mechanics and aesthetic pleasure. The loud ticking of the clock fills the house with comfort and warmth. But sometimes the ticking suddenly stops. It happens that this is due to wear or breakage of the mechanism. But much more often it is a matter of banal pollution and thickened grease. A skilled person is quite capable of solving the problem with his own hands ...

Kienzle chiming wall clocks are very common in Russia. Before the First World War, German watches were officially imported in fair quantities, and after the Great Patriotic War, soldiers returning from Germany often brought trophy precision mechanics with them.

It is probably impossible to trace the history of these particular watches. At least, they have been in our family for more than half a century, and what happened before that is hidden in the depths of years. But there are some things you can install. Kienzle has used several logos to brand the wall clock mechanisms. The movement of this watch bears the mark Flügelrad (winged wheel).

It was such a brand - with a wheel in the form of a dial without hands and with the inscription Kienzle - that was registered in 1898 and was used until 1922, when a watch with arrows appeared on the logo instead of an hour dial, and the wings became simpler and more graphic.

The inscription D.R.PATENT means Deutsches Reich Patent - a patent of the German Empire and, in relation to watches, was usually used together with the number 147023. This is E. Schlenkler's patent for a striking mechanism with a counting wheel placed on the front plate.

There is no patent number 147023 on the mechanism, but if you look closely at the shape of the levers of the battle mechanism and the location of the wheels, the design is one to one.

Mechanisms according to patent 147023 were produced by Kienzle from 1902 to 1914, which does not contradict the stigma. The remaining designations 43 cm / 104 are purely technical information - the length of the pendulum suspension (43 cm) and the number of strokes per minute (104).

Thus, we can conclude that the watch was made between 1902 and 1914. The watch is most likely original, since the glass of the case door has a facet (wide chamfer along the edge), and there are two stickers in German on the back of the case. One is almost destroyed and unreadable, but the second is completely preserved.

The inscription "Diese Schraube mit Messing-kopf ist vor Ingangsetzen der Uhr zu entfernen" was interpreted by Google Translate as "This bronze head screw must be removed before starting the watch." The screw, by the way, is left in place, since without it the clock strike becomes soft and quiet, like a cabinet. And now it is a powerful and booming, almost bell-like sound. As far as I understand, there is nothing wrong with that, it's just that Rundgong turned into Tonfeder, both designs are widely used in striking watches.

How is a wall clock with a fight arranged?

Washing and cleaning wall clocks is usually carried out with a complete disassembly of the clock mechanism. And before such a responsible operation, it is worth getting acquainted with the device of the clock, so as not to accidentally screw something up.

In this case, there is a pendulum spring clock mechanism with the strike of hours and half hours.

The device itself is quite simple, but it is difficult to figure it out from the photo. The scheme given in the book by V.V. will help. Troyanovsky "Repair of watches", released in 1961.

Almost all parts of the movement mechanism are placed between two plates - the front and back plates 2. The front plate is considered to be from the side of the dial (in the diagram on the right).

The source of energy is a spring located in the drum 1. From the drum, rotation is transmitted to the additional wheel 3, the central wheel 4, the intermediate wheel 7 and the escape wheel 8.

The escape wheel teeth have a special shape that allows it to interact with the anchor 9 bracket. The movement of the bracket through the fork-leash 6 is controlled by a pendulum (not shown in the diagram) placed on a suspension 5. The suspension is fixed on part 10 with the wonderful name “pendelfeder”, which, however, in German means only “pendulum spring”.

On the protruding axis of the central wheel there is a pointer gear - a minute tribe 11, a bill of exchange wheel 12 and an hour wheel 13 coaxial with the minute wheel. The minute and hour hands are mounted on the axis of the minute and hour wheels, respectively.

Under the minute tribe, on the same axis, there is a two-pronged cam that connects the running gear with the chime mechanism. The double-toothed cam rotates together with the minute hand and starts the clock strike twice an hour.

The wheel mechanism of the fight is also located between the platinum plates and includes: a spring in the drum 1, an additional wheel 2 with a program wheel located on the same axis, a lifting wheel 3 carrying lifting stars for the hammers on its axis, the first locking wheel 4, the second locking wheel 5 with pin, speed controller ("windmill") 6.

All the automatic mechanism of the battle is located in front of the front plate immediately behind the dial.

The mechanism includes a two-pronged cam of the minute axis 1, a lifting lever 2, which forms a single part with the locking lever 3, which raises the unlocking lever 4, which rests with a pin on the cam 6. Also, the locking lever 3, when raised, holds the wheel pin 5 (the second locking wheel). The release lever is rigidly connected to the reading lever 7, which interacts with the program wheel 8.

The operation of the combat mechanism consists of the stages of preparation for combat and combat itself. Preparation for the fight takes place 3-10 minutes (depending on the shape of the cam 1) before the time of the fight. In this case, the cam 1 gradually raises the levers 2 and 3, and through them the levers 4 and 7 until the pin of the release lever 4 disengages from the protrusion of the cam 6. The mechanism of the battle rotates until the pin of the wheel 5 engages with the protrusion of the raised lock lever 3. Wheel 5 has time to make about half a turn. The mechanism is ready for battle.

With further rotation of the cam, lever 2 falls off the cam tooth, the part rotates, and the locking lever 3 releases the stop wheel pin 5. The system starts to work, the lifting wheel lifts the hammers and drops them onto the tonfeder (spiral gong).

For one revolution of the cam 6, one blow of the hammers passes. Further operation of the mechanism depends on the position of the program wheel. If the reading lever 7 is located above the slot of the program wheel 8, then the pin of the release lever, sliding along the profile of the cam 6, will rest against the cam ledge and stop the mechanism. That's how half an hour goes by.

If the reading lever is located above the protrusion of the program wheel, then the lever will not be able to lower, the pin of the release lever 4 will not rest against the protrusion of the cam. The cam will make one more turn, and the hammers will make another blow. And so on until the reading arm falls into the next slot of the program wheel. The number of strokes depends on the distance between the two notches. The program wheel makes one revolution in 12 hours - a full cycle of the battle mechanism.

What tools will be needed for the job?

Unlike wrist watches, wall clock parts are much larger and more durable, so no special "watch" tool is needed. However, it would be nice to have:

tweezers (1-2 pieces)
small pliers, pliers, or appropriately sized wrench
hard brush (toothbrush with short bristles)
desktop vise or some kind of device for fixing the mechanism in a position convenient for work

How to disassemble a wall clock?

When disassembling the clock, first of all, the pendulum is removed so as not to damage the pendelfeder spring. The pendulum most often just hangs on hooks. After that, two screws or screws securing the mechanism are unscrewed and pulled out of the case.

Further disassembly can be carried out on the table. First remove the arrows. Usually they are fastened with a steel pin, but here someone replaced the pin with a piece of copper wire.

The pin or wire is removed. Then the arrows are removed. The minute one sits freely on a square axis, but the hour one sits on a round one and is held by friction. When removing the hour hand, you need to hold the hollow hour axis with something, otherwise you can damage the hour gear.

After that, remove the dial. It is held by four pins that can be easily removed with pliers.

Now you have access to the mechanisms under the dial and you can lower the mainsprings.

The spring is held through the ratchet wheel 1 by the pawl 3, which is pressed by a flat spring 2. To lower the spring, put on the crown on the square end of the axle and, retracting the pawl with tweezers, carefully open the spring. It is better to do this with two people half a turn at a time, since the spring is very powerful. The second spring is released in the same way.

Now it's the turn to remove all attachments. These include: the suspension of the pendulum with a pendelfeder, the levers of the battle mechanism, the watch and bill wheels. All these parts are fastened with pins.

They also unscrew the two screws and remove the clamping bars with the ratchet wheels of the winding drums. Ratchet wheels are similar in appearance, but not interchangeable, it is important not to confuse them.

Now you can loosen the fixing nuts on the side of one of the plates and carefully separate them. The mechanism turns into a pile of separate parts.

Spring drums must be marked so as not to be confused. Despite the fact that they look exactly the same, the spring in the battle drum is stronger. It was not possible to remove the program wheel from the axis without applying excessive force, the battle drum remained in place, so it would not be possible to confuse them. The axis of the central wheel with the minute tribe also remained in place.

How to clean wall clock parts?

After disassembly, an audit of the condition of the parts is carried out. In case of wear or damage, repair is carried out. A description of how to repair wall clock parts is beyond the scope of this article. Let me just say that if you have the desire and the appropriate equipment, you can restore almost everything. And in this case, you just need to rinse and clean the mechanism well.

The parts of watch mechanisms are washed in a highly purified gasoline-solvent such as "Galosha" or "Kalosha" (Nefras C2-80/120). It is sold in hardware stores. For rinsing, it is better to use a container of a suitable size made of a material resistant to gasoline (stainless steel, glazed porcelain, glass). As it gets dirty, gasoline is changed.

Gears, levers and sinkers are cleaned with a hard brush (a toothbrush with a pile cut to 5-7 mm), the holes in the sinkers are carefully cleaned with wooden toothpicks until the toothpicks stop getting dirty.

There is a temptation to scrape off parts with abrasive materials, but this is not the way to do it. To protect against tarnishing, old watches often used varnish on parts, which is easy to damage. A part with a damaged lacquer coating tarnishes very quickly after cleaning.

The spring drums are washed open. Before opening the drums, you need to mark the position of the lid in order to put it later in exactly the same position.

It is also good to remove the spring, rinse and lubricate outside the drum. To extract and install the spring in the drum, use special tools or just strong hands. When filling the spring manually, you must take precautions: work with cotton gloves and a protective mask or at least goggles. In addition, with this filling, it is easy to damage the edge of the spring. Therefore, I did not dare to pull out the springs, limiting myself to washing and lubricating with the lid open.

How to assemble a wall clock?

It is better to assemble the mechanism on a stand, which will allow you to fix the front plate in a horizontal position. But you can collect and just on the table.

First, the spring drums, the intermediate and central wheels of the running gear, and the additional wheel with the program disk of the combat mechanism are put in place. These parts hold each other well and do not create problems.

Now install the remaining wheels of the movement and combat mechanisms. Wheels are installed according to the principle of "matryoshka in reverse" - from large to small. Assembling the mechanism incorrectly simply will not work, the wheels will not fit in someone else's place or will not engage with neighboring tribes.

After installing all the wheels on the mechanism, a rear plate is applied with a slight distortion so that the axles of the drums and large wheels of the lower part of the mechanism enter their holes. The trunnions of the axles of the wheels in the upper part, most likely, will simply rest against the platinum. If the length of the thread on the lower columns allows, then you can slightly fix the platinum with two nuts.

Now, in turn, from large wheels to smaller ones, the trunnions of the axles are inserted into the holes of the rear platinum with tweezers. At the same time, the platinum is slightly pressed by hand, but in such a way as not to damage the trunnions of the wheel axles. As the axles are installed, the platinum gradually sits in its place. After the final installation, the platinum is fixed with all four nuts on the columns.

Now you need to check the correctness of the assembly. The wheels should rotate freely, without the slightest jamming. If everything is in order, then mounted parts are installed (ratchets of drums, levers of the fighting mechanism) and a bridge with an anchor bracket.

The bridge is attached with two screws and requires adjustment. Maybe there are some special ways to accurately install the bridge, but this is how I did it. I installed the mechanism strictly vertically, grabbed the bridge with screws so that it could be moved with little friction. He started the travel spring a little, and moved the bridge, at the same time slightly pushing the fork-leash of the anchor bracket. And at some point, the mechanism ticked. Now it remains to adjust the smooth and stable course, finally fix the bridge and check the operation of the anchor with the pendulum.

Wall clock lubrication

Wall clocks are lubricated with watch oil. It has a low viscosity and does not dry out for a long time. Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to get it. As a substitute, it is easiest to use vaseline oil, which is easy to buy at a pharmacy. In terms of its viscosity, it is well suited, and in old watch repair books it is even suggested for lubricating large watches as a full-fledged watch.

In no case should you lubricate the watch with other oils that are not intended for this - motor, silicone and, of course, sunflower. The properties of these oils do not meet the requirements at all - they have a high viscosity, dry quickly, coke. The maximum that you will achieve is the need to re-clean in just a few days.

In wall clocks, the trunnions of the axles of the wheels are lubricated by applying a small amount of oil to the recesses of the platinum near the holes (from 1/2 to 2/3 of the volume of the recess), the anchor bracket, the trunnions of the axles of the levers of the fighting mechanism. Gears and pinions do not need to be lubricated.

Wall Clock Adjustment

Now it remains to finally assemble the movement, putting the dial and hands in place, and install the watch in the case. In this case, you need to check the sound of the battle, if necessary, bend the hammers.

Wall pendulum clocks are very sensitive to the position of the clock case. The correct position is set by ear by the sound of the clock. The ticking should be even and steady. It happens that after adjustment, the position of the clock is too noticeably different from the vertical. To fix it, you need to change the position of the fork-leash relative to the anchor bracket, a friction landing is provided there. After that, you need to set the clock position again. To fix the position of the clock in the lower part of the case there are two screws with pointed ends, they are slightly pressed into the wall.

It remains to set the accuracy of the course. To do this, set the clock according to the exact time signals and check the discrepancy every other day. The stroke is adjusted by changing the length of the pendulum using the adjusting nut. If the clock is in a hurry, then the nut should be unscrewed, increasing the length, otherwise tighten. One turn of the nut usually corresponds to a change in stroke of one minute per day.

A well-cleaned and tuned watch runs off or lags by no more than a few seconds a day. Vaseline oil dries faster than a special watch oil, so it is advisable to inspect the watch every six months and re-lubricate in a timely manner (at least once every 2-3 years).

Comments

#64 Oleg Antonov 12/17/2017 04:03 PM

Quoting Akaki:

Let's say at 4-30 they beat 7 times, and at 5 o'clock they strike like half an hour ----- 1 time

You just need to rearrange the minute hand. The minute hand is on a square axis. That is, relative to the axis, it can be placed in four positions. Of these, two are correct, coinciding with the position of the two shoulders of the internal cam for starting the battle, and two are incorrect.
Simply remove the minute hand and move it 90 degrees to either side. Fight then adjust by manual start.

It is always nice when the thing you decorate can be useful and find application in the household. That is why craftsmen and craftswomen of all stripes love to choose watch blanks as the basis for creativity. After the decoration process is completed, all that remains is to choose the clockwork, assemble it and voila! - the hands began to move and began to count seconds, minutes, hours ...

However, this very moment can create difficulties for a novice creator. The range of watch mechanisms is large and for the first time it is quite difficult to figure out what a stem is, how to choose the appropriate diameter and thread height, how simple mechanisms differ from reinforced ones, and, most importantly, in what order to assemble all these nuts and arrows? ..

Let's start to figure it out!

Most of the mechanisms (almost all) presented in various hobby shops are quartz watch movements. They trace their history back to 1957, have high accuracy (plus/minus one second per day) and are perfect for everyday use. Such a mechanism can be called an electromechanical type. Once per second, the quartz crystal transmits an impulse to the electronic unit. From there, it is transferred to the engine, which pushes the arrows. An ordinary finger-type battery (AA battery) is used as a power supply for the electronic unit.

Among the shortcomings of such a mechanism, one can single out that after a few years of use, the crystal loses its properties, and the watch begins to rush. However, this problem is easily solved by buying a new mechanism (since the main advantage of quartz watch movements is their inexpensive price) or by replacing the crystal in a watch workshop.

Stem and Thread Height

To choose the right clockwork, you need to build on the thickness of the workpiece first.

The main parameters that are indicated in the clockwork are the overall height of the stem and the height of the thread. After you put the clock base on the stem, the thread should rise above the base for a few more turns (about 2-3 mm) so that its height is enough to put a metal washer and tighten the nut.

In the name of the clock mechanism, the first digit is the stem height, and the second is the thread height (16/9, 18/12, 20/14, etc.).

When buying a watch movement, it is better to know in advance the thickness of the workpiece that you will decorate in order to select a watch movement with a suitable stem height. By the way, do not forget to consider the decor itself! The number of layers of primer, paint, varnish and especially relief elements can greatly increase the overall thickness of the workpiece.

Example. We have clockwork 15/6.7. This means that we need to subtract two millimeters from the height of 6.7 (to secure the nut). It turns out that for such a mechanism we can use a workpiece no thicker than 4.7 mm.

Simple and reinforced watch movements and hands

Watch mechanisms are simple and reinforced.

Reinforced watch movements have increased torque, parts made from materials of higher quality. Such mechanisms are more reliable and designed to interact well with large hands (up to 35 cm, up to 50 cm, and some manufacturers even up to 1 meter) and large diameter bases. When choosing hands for clockwork, it is important that they match each other! Arrows for normal and reinforced mechanisms are different, and are not interchangeable.

If you are going to decorate a workpiece of a rather large diameter, it would be more logical for you to take a closer look at the reinforced clockwork and hands.

Quiet: discrete and smooth running

Watch movements are distinguished by the type of movement of the second hand:

watch movements with discrete stroke- the second hand makes 60 movements per minute, making a characteristic sound when changing each division, the clock is ticking. However, there are so-called "silent" models, the sound of which is almost imperceptible. It is best to check the clockwork upon purchase to assess how quiet it is. In our showroom you can always ask for a battery and check the clockwork :)

watch movements with smooth running- the second hand makes 360 movements per minute and visually it seems that it "floats" smoothly. Such models are called silent, but they still make some kind of sound and this must also be taken into account. In addition, mechanisms of this type cost at least twice as much as discrete ones, and due to the fact that the number of pulses per minute is six times higher, the batteries in them run out much faster.

Choosing hands for watch mechanisms

Like mechanisms, watch hands are simple and reinforced. Simple hands are suitable for simple types of movements, while heavy-duty hands are specially designed for heavy-duty movements. Arrows can be purchased individually or in sets.

The hands are traditionally hours, minutes and seconds. However, the second hand can be neglected, and a stub stud can be put instead.

Arrows come in a wide variety of shapes, colors and sizes. The length of the arrow is indicated from the center of the hole to the tip of the arrow.

Sometimes a protective transparent film is stuck on the arrows - do not forget to remove it before using the arrows.

After the film is removed, the arrows can also be decorated, for example, aged with bitumen or painted in a different color.

Assembly order of the clockwork

So, we chose the mechanism, the arrows too. It remains quite a bit: to collect all the details together and start the clock.

Step by step with photos, consider the process of assembling the clock mechanism.

1. We take the clockwork.

2. We put on a metal loop. If you will use the clock in some other way, and not hang it on a carnation in the wall, then this step can be skipped.

3. We put on a rubber washer-gasket.

4. We put on the base for the clock! We carefully scroll the entire thread. Sometimes, due to layers of primer, varnish and paint, the hole in the workpiece is clogged and the threaded rod does not fit into it. In this case, clean the hole with something sharp, or sand off the excess with sandpaper rolled into a tube.

5. We put on a metal washer.

6. And we fix the mechanism by tightening the metal nut.

7. We put on the hour hand.

8. Now put on the minute hand.

9. We put on a second hand or a carnation plug.

10. We turn over our clock and insert the battery into the clock mechanism. Ready!

It all started with the fact that 2 years ago, from a trip to Belarus, I brought my grandfather a locally produced TROYKA watch as a gift.

This watch has a smooth-running quartz movement (there is an abbreviation MPH :)), i. the second hand does not click loudly every second, but rather quietly rustles continuously. From the salt battery included in the kit, the clock pretty accurately departed for about 2 months. Well, I replaced it with an alkaline one and the clock got up in a month. Replaced again, again took about a month. After the 3rd battery change, it became clear that something was wrong here. After checking the "dead" batteries, I realized that they are still very much alive. After consulting with the nearest blogosphere, I found out that such mechanisms are not repairable and are easier to throw out. I gave up until one day in Ikea I saw their cheapest watch model and picked it up to see what kind of mechanism it was.
Here they are - the simplest plastic case and plastic glass, paper dial

Suddenly, the very mechanism was installed in them, and on the sticker there was a mysterious inscription "Made in Belarus" =D

The price of the unit turned out to be something in the region of 250 rubles, I grabbed them satisfied and rushed home to dissect. Swapped mechanisms. This is not difficult - the arrows are carefully removed from the stem, after which you need to slightly squeeze the latches and remove the mechanism from the case, assemble in the reverse order. The Ikeevsky version is generally disassembled in 1 minute, there is not even a single bolt.

So, I assembled, put used batteries in both copies. Surprisingly both went. I thought that when removing the arrows, I could fix something inside the old mechanism. But after about a month of work on a used battery, electricity zhor again appeared.

The "repaired" Belarusian watches ran normally, they did not eat the battery before it was supposed to. But I wouldn't be me if it ended happily ever after. Suddenly, the clock refused to function in its natural upright position. Only in horizontal! At the same time, the mechanism is spinning, but something has moved away somewhere. I shook and knocked them, no, they don’t go. Then I decided on an autopsy.

The autopsy was unsuccessful. The gears all fell out and I spent the next half an hour installing them back. At the same time, no defects were noticed by eye. The engine was running, everything was spinning. And in the assembled state, the clock still did not work.

Then for the 3rd time I went to the store for a watch and bought it. Unpacked at home, there was another mechanism inside! I was despondent. On the other hand, maybe there really was a lot of marriage on the previous model. Reassembled, hung up, everything works. The move is precise.

And just then I suddenly googled ... rukalitso.zhpg

A lot has come to light. To begin with, the fact that all mechanisms are universal, i.e. have the same size, but differ in the length of the stem on which the arrows are installed. This was done to enable the use of dials of different thicknesses, and fastening to the dial with a nut on the stem can also be provided. I even recognized one of the most common models of Chinese mechanisms - this is JL 6262. During the crisis, Chinese stores sell it for about 300 rubles apiece, i.e. in pre-crisis times, the price was quite affordable. With us, I did not find anything other than wholesale in boxes. In one article, the GrandTime sweep mechanism was advertised in comparison with just this JL 6262. For it, the defect rate is declared ≤0.05%, while JL has ≥4%, and the accuracy is 1-2 seconds per day. I wonder what percentage of the marriage I got ... For serviceable mechanisms, the operating time from an alkaline battery should be about 8-11 months and the service life of the mechanism is about 6 years. Somehow not very much. I think many people still have Soviet clocks with discrete mechanisms at home, which have been clattering for 30 years.

Thinking about the use of carcasses from IKEA watches, without any illusions, I ordered a movement from the Chinese for a sample cost of less than $ 1 (this is already with delivery), but with a longer stem for the nut (you can make a handmade one). And not so long ago, this mechanism got to me.

The quality of the plastic is ok. For the price, I was expecting some horror. Recommended to use alkaline batteries

Stem thread

Stuck a truly Chinese mechanism into an IKEA watch

The first surprise - the mechanism worked from an old battery, which I was about to throw away. But here's a slightly longer rod is not quite removed under the glass. With a slight pressure on the glass from the outside, the second hand stalled. He got out of the situation without fully inserting the glass into the latches. And it stays pretty solid. So if you are going to change the mechanism, check if you have enough length.
The second surprise is that the accuracy of this movement turned out to be higher than that of my wrist Casio!

So, we have completed the first part. Got a few tools. The places where the instrument grows were explored. We have prepared a workplace for ourselves. And in general - while we were doing all this - we had a good walk in the air and got to know the haunts and surroundings better. The first part involved quite a lot of movement and attentiveness when hiking - you had to SEARCH. What to look for - FSE! Everything interesting and in our not yet trained eyes - which can be useful to us and unusual. Something like plush. What is the result:

Tool. Which? First screwdrivers, then tweezers. To them - a binocular loupe, brushes, Petri dishes and needles. Got some oil. Yes, even for sewing machines. Well, there is no other. We think we have nothing else. NO. All. We manage with this primitive set. But without it, it's not worth starting.

They collected carcasses of hours.

different. Old. Wrist. They simply collected mechanisms - for spare parts.

They took indiscriminately, everything that was cheaper than the cost of half a pack of cheap cigarettes. This is their price. Half a pack of Belomor or Prima. Trolleybus fare. They shouldn't cost more. Regardless of the state - whole-broken. There are only two criteria. The first - mandatory - not rusty. The second - desirable - to be assembled (all parts are in place) - regardless of integrity. Trash. Let's sort. What do we have?

Women's wrist.

- Star. Old. Barrel-shaped movement, caliber 18 mm. Allegedly, in prehistoric times, the French brought us and assembled the LIP plant. So it's all French.

- Dawn- Penza watch factory

-Gull- standard small mechanisms, quite old, but tenacious

- Glory- newer gears

Lots of other titles. All Soviet. THE USSR. Looks like the state took care of the working class - it produced watches. To not be late for work. Probably.

Men's wrist watch.

- Victory. Moscow. Lighthouse. Many watches were produced under these names. We're not talking about hours. About mechanisms.

Basically 2 types of mechanisms.

- "high" mechanism - for example 1MCHZ - "Moscow". Central second hand. Most watches were assembled on its basis - up to the famous "Sport". They stopped when the crown was pulled out. Ersatz stopwatch. An older type of mechanism. We do not name the technical caliber - it makes no sense. It is still impossible to order parts for the caliber.

- "low" mechanism - more modern. Side second hand.

Both in the first and in the second case, different factories produced a bunch of modifications of mechanisms - with improvements, simplifications, rac. Offers. There were also a bunch of types of exterior finishes. Satisfied the demanding consumer.

In addition - a full rainbow of other watch movements:

Slava - 2 types of movements, self-winding and non-self-winding. Somewhere on the Internet it was indicated - the prototype of the LIP-T-15. Again the French.

Complicated watch

With an alarm clock

Chronometer

For the blind

Our task is to learn how to disassemble and assemble. Then everyone will go their own way. One will only disassemble. Another will collect by 50% and then - as they get bored or peacefully thrown into the trash (usually habits - vodka-dances will overpower), others - out of anger that it doesn’t work out - beat on the anvil with a hammer. Still others - they will calmly sort it out again, put it off for a couple of days and try again. This is a normal form of behavior for such an unusual hobby - precision mechanics.

Let's start with a simpler direction - men's watches. They are larger than women's. Better to be seen without a microscope. An example is a "low" Victory. It is the simplest for us. "High" is harder for the first time. The clock circuit is basically identical for all single-platinum watches. Therefore, you just need to understand and remember a few fairly simple schemes once. For the first workouts - just sketch what we are analyzing.

Frame:

Back cover.

There are several types of back covers. All the difference is in the manner of closing.

Slamming. A distinctive feature - usually, upon closer examination, you can find a flat into which a knife is driven in order to open it when pressed hard. In modern electronic consumer goods, a similar cover is often practiced, but with grooves, as it were, for unscrewing - a good joke. If you don’t know, then at least shoot yourself - you won’t be able to unscrew it.

Flat in the ring of glass. It's not a cover.

A more modern solution is a ledge in the lid.

And this is where the knife comes in.

Screw, with a screw ring or threaded on the cover itself.

Or so - edges are visible along the edge of the lid.

We unscrew the first option either with the largest tailor's scissors (they are more rigid) or with the turned sponges of the old caliper. At flea markets, keys of this kind can often lie in ruins.

The corporate key (bought in the most common store for modellers - models of steam locomotives, cars, etc. in Germany) looks like this.

A rather rare option in Soviet watches is a bayonet. Turns a small angle and opens.

Bayonet lock on lid

So the clock was opened. What we see is dirt.

A lot of dirt. We immediately say that we will not deal with rusty watches. There is no chance. Nothing can be done - everything must be changed. Install new or sharpen new. It's too early for us.

The main parts of the mechanism

I - balance.

II - Wheel system

III - mainspring (maybe two - in Glory)

IV - ratchet - there can also be several types of them.

What we do first of all - while the mechanism is in the case - we lower the mainspring. If the head in the carcass is preserved and it can be turned (it is not erased to the base) - we try to turn it slightly towards the plant and look at the ratchet. It should turn slightly and slip a couple of teeth. This is what we need - with a needle we support it in the allotted state and, without jerks, let the crown turn and dissolve the spring, slightly releasing the crown between the fingers.

Immediately put in front of you at least 2 Petri dishes. Or white plates or dishes with a flat flat bottom. Diameter 15-20 cm. I use Petri dishes. They are easier to cover during breaks.

We take out the crown. To do this, press the latch with a needle.

We take out the mechanism from the case. Sometimes this is done towards the back cover. In our case, the opposite is true. The ring with glass is removed and the mechanism is removed from the side of the dial.

We remove the arrows

Minute, in general, simply - yes, even with a screwdriver

Hours and seconds are already a bit of an adventure. Tool - a piece was torn out of the relay (there was some kind of electric relay - there the material on the contact groups is exactly what we need - hard and thin. Bent - and there is the tool we need)

Turning the balance. The size (caliber) of the screwdriver must match the size of the screw.

The screw was unscrewed and how can this whole assembly be raised? - and it usually has special grooves into which you can stick a screwdriver and separate the balance plate from the base.

This is how we balance.

Everything is gradually laid out on Petri dishes.

Unscrew the screws of the mainspring block. There is one trick in the watch - if the screw has many grooves, then it is with a left-hand thread.

Under the dial - the assembly of the wheels of the arrows (I) and the assembly of the winding and transfer of the head from the winding position to the position of the transfer of the arrows (II) (scientifically called remontoire). We disassemble.

We remove the minute trib. This is the only node in the watch where force is required. We pull hard enough. If we jumped off - we will repeat. It always comes off with effort. The main thing is not to be afraid.

When disassembling the switch transfer unit (remontoir), pay special attention to the spring.

She has a nasty property - to click and fly away in an indefinite direction. Against this, a simple trick is to cover (press) all of it lightly with just a finger and carefully “click out” with a needle from under the finger

Put everything in a petri dish

Now the longest and most accurate. Washing.

We take a shallow bowl. We pour gasoline there. And mine. Brush and toothpicks. To shine. No dirt left.

For small mechanisms - squirrel brush. Harder. For large mechanisms - alarm clocks, pocket watches - you can try soft art brushes for oil paints.

Dry: first put after gasoline on a paper napkin. I usually take a heavy piece of cardboard and put a piece of paper towel on it. To not jump and jump. Select napkins and towels according to the criterion - the fewer villi - the better.

Let the gasoline soak in. Let's just put it. Then we take the parts with tweezers and blow air from a rubber pear (enema) to blow gasoline out of the holes. And so consistently all the elements of the clock that lie in a Petri dish or on an impromptu "dryer". Node by node. This is what is meant: if the platinum is unscrewed and with it - 3 screws - we put them together. We consider - "this is our node." In order not to confuse screws and parts. We put them in the same places in the Petri dish. Or better in a clean cup. Old - then wash and wipe. This is if we do not intend to collect quickly. Or we collect "from a sheet" - from a napkin. But this is with a certain experience, skill and speed of work. Balance. While there is no great experience, we do not understand. So we shove the platinum-spiral-balance block into a bath with gasoline and simply rinse it in gasoline for a long time. It is clear that this is wrong. It is necessary to disassemble everything, etc. - WE HAVE NO EXPERIENCE YET. Gutted for 5-10 hours, and then we will look at the balance. How he understands. Read books. And do according to wise books (if it is described in detail there).

Some note about the mainspring. We do nothing. Just wipe the outside with a paper towel. We clean the teeth with a brush. For now, we don't do anything. With disassembly, lubrication, assembly and replacement of the spring, we will have fun next time. No experience yet. It's difficult.

And now more intellectual work - to collect the resulting puzzle

Everything is done in the following order:

mainspring

Wheel system. Let's have some fun too. We placed the gears in the lower stones. They covered it with platinum, and then we need to move the upper platinum with tweezers in all directions until the upper axles of the gears do not hit the stones. A little tedious, but doable. Sometimes you can try to help the process with a thin needle to move the gears that you can get to. The main rule is NO VIOLENCE. Everything should be done without any effort whatsoever. Everything by itself “snaps” into place over time and the platinum noticeably “falls” down. The clock mechanism is a rather thin thing, the efforts are very small, the loss of efforts during operation is also very small, respectively - it cannot be assembled on tight landings - THEY CANNOT BE BY DEFINITION. If the upper platinum does not sit in place, the pinion has not sat in the stones. Or while we were moving it all - jumped out of the lower stone. We repeat once again - THERE CANNOT BE EFFORT! The criterion for the correct assembly may be the following: slightly turn the mainspring drum. SLIGHTLY ONLY - all gears should start turning. It's all - almost almost effortlessly on the clockwork barrel.

Putting the anchor in place

We put the balance in place.

Lubricate the stones from above - from the side of the back cover. To do this, we use a homemade oil dosage.

We turn the mechanism over, lubricate all the stones from the side of the dial. We collect the mechanism of the crown.

Spring. Another adventure. We press it all with a wide screwdriver. We put the needle in place. Springs are probably the most foul thing in all this work. They jump. And we will suffer with them a) until we train our hands and b) until we collect carcasses of watches from which we will drag spare parts without a twinge of conscience.

They put it in place. We don't breathe. And suddenly it pops up.

Assemble arrow wheels. We put the minute tribe strongly on the gear axle. How? Yes, whatever comes to hand is approximately suitable. How we filmed and set. We rest. You will have to press the pins hard until it clicks.

Lubricate. What is there to lubricate - if you have assembled this puzzle - figured out - then you will also have to think about lubrication and lubricate it yourself. The basic rule is to lubricate only with oil dosage and to a minimum. All moving parts are lubricated. Plates must be dry. That's why it is a recess in the stones - so that the oil does not spread beyond its limits. We do not lubricate the stones of the anchor fork. It's early yet. A microscope is needed.

We put the dial.

We put the mechanism in the case.

Press the lock on the crown to put it in place. We start. Enjoy. DONE!!! YOURSELF!!!

Bogdan Yasinetsky

Chapter 3

This is the name of a wrist electronic-mechanical watch with a quartz generator (Fig. 9).

Rice. nine. Kinematic diagram of quartz watch ELF 3050:

1 - transfer head;

2 - transfer shaft;

3 - latch;

4 - wings;

5 - an asterisk with a wheel;

6 - bill of exchange wheel;

7 - clock wheel;

8 - tribe of the minute hand;

9 - central wheel with a tube;

10 - stepper motor rotor;

11 - stepper motor stator;

12 - stepper motor tribe;

13 - gear wheel;

14 - second wheel with tribe;

15 - intermediate wheel;

16 - transfer wheel;

17 - cam clutch;

18 - winding lever;

19 - transfer lever with a pin;

20 - backstage spring

A quartz oscillator is a source of highly stable oscillations located in an electronic unit.

The crystal oscillator block is a printed circuit board with a quartz resonator, an integrated circuit and passive elements placed on it. The block is connected to the platinum with screws. The actuating device in the clock is a stepper motor, made in the form of an autonomous unit. The battery ensures at least 12 months of continuous watch operation.

The principle of operation and the kinematic scheme of the clock are as follows: the electrical signal of the quartz oscillator is subjected to division of its frequency and, after the formation of the pulse, is fed to the stepper motor. The pulse repetition rate is 1 Hz. The stepper motor, in turn, converts successive electrical impulses into intermittent rotation of the main wheel system.

Through the wheel system, the rotation of the motor shaft is transmitted to the hands and the calendar device (if any).

The stepper motor pinion (12) is engaged with the transmission wheel (13), the pinion of which drives the seconds wheel (14). From the tribe of the second wheel through the intermediate wheel (15) with the tribe, the rotation is transmitted to the central wheel (9). The pointer mechanism consists of a minute hand tribe (8), a bill wheel (6) with a pinion, and an hour wheel (7).

The transfer shaft (2) with the head (1) can take two fixed positions. If the clock has a calendar device, then the transfer shaft will be designed for three positions.

In order to translate the hands, it is necessary to put the transfer head in the second fixed position. The cam clutch (17) must then engage with the transfer wheel (16). Further, the rotation is transferred to the pointer mechanism.

During the transfer of the arrows, the lock lever, mechanically connected to the transfer shaft, stops the transfer wheel and prevents the movement of the wheel system and the stepper motor during the transfer of the arrows. After the arrows are set and when the transfer head returns to its original position, the lever returns to its normal position, ensuring the start of the stepper motor.

Watch disassembly

Loosen the locking ring and remove the housing cover.

Unscrew the screw of the battery spring, remove the spring and carefully, preferably with tweezers, pull out the element, taking it only by the cylindrical part of the case.

Insert a battery into the mechanism and use a tester to check that the electronic unit is working.

The positive probe of the tester is connected to the platinum of the clock mechanism, and the negative probe is connected in turn to the contacts for connecting the stepper motor. In this case, the arrow of the device should deviate to 1.4–1.5 V and oscillate within 1–2 mm with an interval of 2 s. If there are no such fluctuations, replace the electronic unit.

Then determine the health of the stepper motor. To do this, the tester switch must be set to the resistance measurement position.

Connect the tester probes to the contacts (terminals) of the stepper motor and measure the resistance of the coils, which should be within 3-4 kOhm.

Connect one tester probe to the clock platinum, and the second to one of the outputs of the stepper motor.

In this case, the arrow of the instrument should be in the left extreme position of the instrument scale. Repeat the same with the other output. If, during measurement, the arrow deviates to the right, then the stepper motor coil is closed to the housing. This engine needs to be replaced.

Remove the electronic block. To do this, unscrew the screw securing the current conductor, remove the insulating washer, unscrew the two screws securing the block to the platinum, carefully lift the block with tweezers, move it to the side and remove it from the speakers.

Press the transfer shaft stand, pull the shaft out of the housing, and then the entire mechanism.

Loosen the screws securing the stepper motor bridge. Remove the bridge, then unscrew the two screws securing the stepper motor and carefully pull it out using tweezers.

When removing and installing a stepper motor, you can use only brass tweezers, and only plastic ones for the power source.

Next, disassemble the switch mechanism. To do this, you need to remove the hands, two screws of the dial, the dial, three screws, the bridge, the hour, bill and transfer wheel and the minute hand pinion. Then remove the calendar device, if present.

Disassemble the main wheel system. To do this, unscrew the screws and remove the bridge.

After disassembling the mechanism, the parts should be cleaned. All parts are washed, except for the power source, stepper motor, dial, case glasses, inserts, quartz oscillator block and painted hands. All of the listed parts, except for the stepper motor, are cleaned with a soft hair brush.

Watch assembly

Install the central wheel with tube (9), the minute hand pinion (8).

Press the central tube into the hole of the minute hand tribe, then check the smoothness of rotation of the central wheel, as well as its axial and radial clearances. Lubricate all seats on the center tube.

Assemble the wheel system. This is done in the following order: install the intermediate wheel (15) with pinion, gear (13) and second (14) wheels with pinions and the axle of the main wheel system so that the lock lever brake enters the groove of the axle, fix the axle with screws. Check the gaps of the intermediate and second wheels with pinions and the smoothness of rotation of the system.

Assemble the transfer mechanism. To do this, install the transfer lever (19), the clutch lever and the cam clutch itself (17), as well as the transfer shaft (2).

Check the smooth rotation of the shaft in the platinum, install the lock lever and lubricate all parts.

Install the minute wheel with pinion, transmission wheel, bridge and fix it with screws.

Install the clock wheel (7).

Install spring washer and dial. Fasten the dial with screws, and then install the hour, minute and second hands. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the position of the transfer shaft; when installing the hour and minute hands, the shaft must be in the position of the translation of the arrows.

Using the transfer shaft, move the hands to the number 12 and set the second hand, matching its position with the divisions of the dial.

The minute, second and hour hands should be set with little effort so as not to disturb the established vertical clearances in the main wheel system.

Insert the mechanism, mechanism fastening ring, transfer shaft into the body.

Install the crystal oscillator block, stepper motor and power supply. The stepper motor mounting screw must not be overtightened.

Close the housing cover. After the assembly is completed, the stepper motor should immediately start its work, this will be seen by the movement of the second hand.

Oversized quartz watch

As an example, we will consider the mechanism of a desktop electronic-mechanical clock with a quartz resonator (Fig. 10).

Rice. ten. Structural diagram of quartz watch "Yantar" 59206:

1 - battery;

2 - terminals;

3 - nuts for fastening the gearbox;

4 - rear axle;

5 - locking device;

6 - screws for fastening the stepper motor;

7 - stepper motor tribe;

8 - coil mounting screws;

9 - stepper motor;

10 - bill of exchange wheel;

11 - columns;

12 - clock wheel;

13 - panel;

14 - transfer shaft;

15 - central wheel;

16 - spring;

17 and 19 - intermediate wheels first and second;

18 - front axle;

20 - second wheel;

21 - electronic block;

22 - screws for fastening the electronic unit

The mechanism consists of a stepper motor, the main wheel system, a battery and an electronic unit.

The quartz clock generator starts working when the batteries are connected to the electronic unit. A stepper motor (9) is used to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy. From the tribe (7) through the first intermediate wheel (17) the rotation is transmitted to the second wheel (20). On the axis of the second wheel is a second hand. In order to set the minute hand in motion, the rotation is transmitted further, through the second intermediate wheel (19) and the central wheel (15), on the sleeve of which the minute hand is fixed.

The movement from the central wheel is transmitted to the bill wheel (10), and from there to the clock wheel (12). The central wheel assembly is equipped with a special device that allows you to coordinate the readings of the minute and hour hands. To set the exact time and translate the minute and hour hands, a transfer shaft (14) is used.

To set the second hand to the exact time, the second hand stop device (5) is used.

Watch disassembly

Remove the cover and remove the battery and terminals.

Remove the electronic block (21); to do this, firstly, unscrew the two screws (22) securing the electronic unit in order to disconnect it from the speakers of the panel (13) and the bridge (4); second, disconnect the electrical connector.

Remove stepper motor (9); To do this, unscrew the two screws (6) that secure the stepper motor to the panel speakers.

Loosen the two nuts (3) securing the gearbox.

Remove the rear axle (4), second wheel (20), first (17) and second (19) intermediate wheels.

Remove the second hand lock (5), front axle (18), center wheel (15), bill wheel (10), hour wheel (12).

Remove spring (16) and transfer shaft (14).

Remove the speakers (11) by unscrewing the two nuts securing the speakers to the front side of the panel.

Disassemble the stepper motor if necessary. To do this, remove the stepper motor rotor assembly, unscrew the two screws securing the coil and remove it. After disassembly, all parts of the stepper motor and gearbox, except for the coil, must be washed in gasoline. To wash the axis of the motor rotor, it is necessary to remove the coils and the rotor, and the washing itself should be carried out with the assembled magnetic circuits.

The main malfunction of a stepper motor, as a rule, is a broken coil wire. Repair is possible only if the outer end of the wire is broken. The repair procedure is as follows: dissolve the varnish of the coil with amyl acetate near the broken end so that there is enough length to stretch the wire. Then use a soldering iron to remove the remaining wire from the terminal. Make 2-3 turns around this terminal and solder the wire again.

Dampen the brush in a mixture of alcohol and gasoline and clean the soldering area, and then varnish it.

The most common malfunctions of the electronic watch unit are the failure of the integrated circuit and the quartz resonator. These nodes are best replaced.

Defects in the main wheel system are corrected in the same way as in a mechanical watch.

Assembling and adjusting the clock mechanism

Install two columns (11). Put the spring (16) on the right column and fix its position with the support pin. Then put the front axle (18) on the same column; The bend of the spring must fit into the groove of the bridge.

Insert the first intermediate wheel (17) into the hole in the axle with the pinion up. Put a washer and a spherical spring on the axis of the second wheel (20) and also insert the second wheel into the hole of the bridge.

With the second wheel slightly raised, install the second idler wheel (19) and locking device.

Install the rear axle and tighten the two nuts.

Place the main wheel assembly on the rear axle. Place the minute wheel on the tube of the front axle, and fix the transfer shaft (14) in the holes of the front and rear axles.

Put the bill wheel on the axle of the front axle, and the hour wheel on the minute wheel hub.

Install the panel (13) on top of the columns, tighten the two nuts.

Place the coil on the base of the stepper motor assembly and secure with screws. Mount the motor rotor on the axle.

Trib rotor enter into engagement with the first intermediate wheel. Mount the stepper motor and secure it with two screws.

Install the electronic unit in the corresponding sockets of the engine and secure it with two screws. Insert two terminals into the grooves of the panel, check the contact. If necessary, the terminal tabs can be bent.

To check the operation of the mechanism, connect it to a power source.

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