A simple wooden table. Original and functional: how to make a wooden table with your own hands

How to make a table for the country. DIY garden table and benches. We will talk about installing a new table with benches in the garden at the dacha. To unite the family, it was decided to carry out the installation of a new table by collective efforts. The old wooden table, according to the rapidly erected scheme, ceased to suit, it had to be updated every 5-7 years. In the construction of the table and benches, new and traditional building materials were used - metal and wood. The table turned out to be reliable and, in comparison with the previous options, it will last a long time. Detailed step-by-step instructions with photos and videos are provided.

How to make a table with benches with your own hands

The design of the table has been worked out by collective efforts, taking into account material possibilities, skills and the availability of tools. The table is made and probably the choice of design option is no longer worth discussing. The old table was built of wood. Raw poles were buried in the ground in the open air and bench boards and tabletops were attached to them. The lifetime of the pillars is 5-7 years, depending on the thickness, the boards withstood up to 10-12 years. The table and benches were actively used from April to early October. The table and benches were exposed to precipitation in the form of snow and rain all year round. The new table is made on a metal frame, and the flooring of the table and benches is made of boards. The boards are dismantled in October and removed to a protected place, and in the spring they are fixed back to the frame. In this way, the life of the flooring and the entire table is extended. For critics, I want to say that there is a place to rest under a canopy in the garden ( ).

Pile "Juventa"

Materials for the construction of the table and benches:

Six screw piles "Yuventa" for installing a fence, 2400 mm long, head with a section of 50 × 50 mm;
10 - 12 edged boards 2000 mm long with a section of 150 × 50 mm, to speed up work it is better to purchase planed boards, pay attention to the thickness of the boards - it should be the same;
metal pipe of square section 60 × 60 mm, 4 m long;
metal corner with a shelf 40-5o mm 3.5 m long;
paint for metal 1 liter;
yacht varnish 1-4 liters;
paint brush;
solvent for paint and varnish 0.5-1 l;
self-tapping screws for fixing boards 50 pieces;
cement, sand

Table structure construction tool:

welding inverter;
a circular saw;
laser level, tape measure, bubble level;
electric planer;
grinder with cutting and cleaning discs;
screwdriver with a set of drills and bits.

Instructions for making a table with benches with your own hands

A drawing was prepared to install the table. See photo. The width of the table is 1100 mm (6 boards 150 mm wide and one 200 mm wide). When changing the width of the table, pay attention to the distance between the posts of the bench and the table.

The location of the table was chosen long ago, under the crowns of apple trees and next to artificial pond with fish. Places of installation of piles are marked with pegs.
We install piles "Juventa". For this, a device for wrapping was made from a piece of pipe 60 × 60 mm. See photos and videos. In view of the peculiarities of my area, which are detailed during construction on sandy soil, I had to make recesses for each pile. Without this deepening, the pile would have collapsed before it was completely twisted. recess done petrol drill . The recesses for the piles of the bench are dug at a right angle. And for two table piles at a certain angle towards each other. This is done deliberately for greater stability of the table.

Digging a hole with a drill

Piles "Juventa" for the table
The twisting of the Juventa piles took place according to the standard scheme. Watch the video. Be sure to control your efforts so as not to destroy the pile until it is completely twisted. In my case, it was a team effort. When twisting, you must try to observe the intended location of the pile and their slope. Small flaws in accuracy can be compensated for during subsequent assembly. See details of work video example .

Pile "Juventa" twisted
After twisting the piles of the pit covered in layers of sand with humidification and tamping.
For a long service life of piles, the internal space of the pile is necessary; small-scale mechanization was used. After concreting, we close the heads from the effects of precipitation and let the concrete harden. Immediately it is necessary to clean the piles from contamination.

Pile concreting
We cut square pipes 60 × 60 mm into 4 pieces of 550 mm and 2 pieces of 900 mm.
We insert the pipes into the pile heads at a distance of 10-20 mm from the ground.
We weld pipes 60 × 60 mm on the heads, while using the mounting gap, we eliminate the inaccuracies in the installation of piles. Try to install the racks of the benches strictly vertically, and the racks of the table coaxially to each other. Welding was carried out at 6-8 points at the points of contact between the head and the rack. We immediately clean the welding spots from scale.

Racks welded to piles
mark the pipe cutting lines. Do it exactly. The cutting level from the ground surface of the bench legs is 500 mm, the table legs are 760 mm.
We cut the racks according to the marking with a grinder with a cutting disc. Cut carefully and accurately. The surface of each cut must be horizontal. Corners will be installed and welded on the ends of the racks.
We cut corners. The size of the corners for fastening the boards of the bench is 250-300 mm, only 4 pieces are needed. The table will require two corners of 1000-1100 mm (determined by the selected table width). The edges of the corners in the vertical plane are cut into a cone, and all edges are rounded. The surface must be smooth and free of burrs.
We weld the corners to our racks, controlling the horizontal plane of the shelf along two axes using a bubble level. Just in case, scarves are welded to reinforce the place of welding to the rack. When welding the corners of the benches, you can slightly shift the center of welding of the corner to compensate for errors in the installation of the pile (distance of the table post from the bench post).

Welding corners

Corners welded to posts
I used boards for the table and benches from the remains of the construction of a frame house. The boards were uncut. Therefore, half a day was devoted to partial planing and sanding of the boards.
We try on the boards, put them on the corners. The boards of the benches should be parallel to the boards of the table. Boards are marked for subsequent assembly. The position of the boards on the corners is also marked.

Trying boards
We mark holes on the corners for the screws for fastening the boards. A total of 14 holes per table corner and 4 holes per bench corner. We drill holes.

Drilling holes in the corner

Holes in the corner of the bench

Holes in the corner of the table
The boards are impregnated with an antiseptic and, after drying, covered with paint or varnish. I covered the boards with yacht varnish.
Simultaneously with the varnishing of the boards, the racks and corners are painted with a protective paint. To avoid water ingress into the racks, plugs (mounting foam) are made on the ends of the pipes.

A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.

Design Options

For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the occupant's hips.

Country style table

This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design Options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two adds to the functionality of the table, since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Studded joints provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design Options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then one must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.

An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-column supports is increased resistance to warping. Although the area of support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the table top bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of attaching folding table parts are shown on the next page.

Design Options

Thinking about the shape of the legs and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still often found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary family table can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.

Design Options

The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design Options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with sliding sections. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you don't have to start searching for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the arrival of guests. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design Options

The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.

Two-leg table with sliding
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design Options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. Good uses for this include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here), and other special purpose tables and tables. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here as well.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which is applied to a relatively long utility table with hinged covers. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large spread out table, filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.

Design Options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book - the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the tsarga-leg-leg. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has many structural elements reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.

Design Options

A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop

This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design Options

The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our "basic" table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.

Design Options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the table top. Perfect. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.

The table is an essential attribute of the kitchen interior. At the same time, it should not only combine style, beauty and comfort, but also be quite reliable. And what could be more reliable and durable than natural wood? The problem is that high-quality wooden furniture is not cheap, so not everyone can buy it for their kitchen. However, do not despair, because making a wooden table with your own hands is a completely feasible task for a person who is able to distinguish a screw from a nail and knows how to use a drill, a jigsaw and a grinding machine.

The choice of kitchen table design depends on several factors, such as the size of the kitchen, the number of occupants, and the interior design. If you look at the options that furniture manufacturers offer, then among the whole variety of designs, three categories can be distinguished:

tables of medium size for 4-6 people;
overall tables for a large family or receiving guests;
practical folding tables for small kitchens.

A table in the kitchen should combine three qualities: aesthetics, convenience and practicality.

To make a kitchen table with your own hands, you need to have a product drawing on hand, the necessary set of tools and at least some woodworking skills. Below are design options for standard, large and small kitchens with photo instructions and a detailed description of each stage in the manufacture of a wooden table.

Rectangular baluster dining table

A rectangular design with a standard size of 1200x600mm is considered the most popular due to its practicality. This table can easily accommodate a family of 4 people. In addition, it can be installed both in the center of the kitchen (if space permits), or placed close to the wall in order to save free space.

schematic drawing

In order to make the wooden table more attractive, we will use balusters instead of straight legs. If there is no lathe at hand, then such legs can be ordered separately at the nearest furniture workshop.

Note! Balusters are figured pillars that are primarily found on the railings of stairs, balconies and roofs. However, the use of these elements in the manufacture of kitchen tables is also far from uncommon.

Drawing of a rectangular table on balusters

To assemble the product, you will need the following materials and tools:

4 finished baluster legs 720 mm high;
furniture board 30 mm thick for countertops;
board 20x100mm for the frame;
wood screws about 30 mm long;
drill (screwdriver);
a circular saw;
grinder;
sandpaper of different grain sizes;
building level;
square;
roulette;
wood glue.

Step by step assembly instructions

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of wood on balusters is made in the following sequence:

We prepare the cross members of the frame. To do this, we cut a 100 mm board into 4 parts (2 by 400 mm, 2 by 1000 mm), after which we remove the burrs and bring the surface to a smooth state with sandpaper or a grinder.

We take the balusters and connect them in pairs with short crossbars (400 mm), making a small indent from the edge of the leg (about 15 mm). Fastening is carried out by means of glue and screws, which are twisted at an angle from the inside of the board.

Tip! In order to prevent the appearance of cracks, it is better to pre-make holes for the screws.

Fastening the short crossbars to the legs

We connect the finished pairs of legs with long crossbars (1000 mm). The fastening algorithm is the same as in the previous step.

The final stage of mounting the table frame

After we have made the frame of a wooden table with our own hands, we move on to the countertop. If it comes to the kitchen, then it is better to purchase a ready-made furniture board. Although for a gazebo or cottage, where the requirements for the appearance of the tabletop are not so strict, it can be assembled from grooved boards.

Furniture board for countertop

The finished tabletop must be connected to the frame. To do this, lay it face down on a flat and clean surface, and evenly place the base with legs on top. The fastening of the crossbars to the tabletop is carried out with screws according to the same principle that was described in paragraph 2. However, in this case, you must be extremely careful not to drill through the countertop.

On this, the manufacture of a kitchen table with your own hands can be considered almost complete. The last stage is characterized by the process of grinding the surface, as well as the application of stain or varnish, the color of which is matched to the interior of the kitchen.

Note! The number of layers of varnish depends on the type of wood. Hardwoods, such as oak or hornbeam, do not absorb varnish well, so 1-2 coats are enough in this case. But for pine or spruce, you will need at least 3 layers of coating.

Wooden dining table with balusters

Wooden table for a large family

An oversized table at which you can dine with a large family or arrange a feast by inviting friends must have a reliable design. Regular four legs are usually not enough to hold a heavy tabletop. Therefore, it is necessary to take additional measures to strengthen the frame.

Product design

In this example, we will consider how to make a large wooden table for the kitchen with our own hands measuring 2337x978 mm (naturally, slight deviations in one direction or another are allowed).

Drawing of a large wooden table

Before starting work, lumber should be prepared for:

supporting frame (38x90 mm);
countertops (38x140 mm);
support bars (19x64 mm).

You will also need the following tools:

a circular saw;
jigsaw;
drill;
screws (4x65 mm);
drills (3 mm);
furniture glue;
pencil, tape measure, sandpaper.

Manufacturing steps

To make the table reliable and have an attractive appearance, you need to responsibly approach each stage. So let's get started:

We make parts for the future wooden table from the purchased lumber with our own hands:

2 upper transverse beams (38x90x978 mm);
4 legs (38x90x695 mm);
2 bowstrings (38x90x921 mm);
1 longitudinal lower beam (38x90x1575 mm);
1 longitudinal upper beam (38x90x1473 mm);
2 braces (38x90x772 mm);
7 blanks for countertops (38x90x2337);
6 support bars (19x64x432 mm).

We carefully grind all the details, achieving an absolutely smooth surface without burrs.

Important! The quality of polishing a wooden surface depends on the right grit of emery. For primary grinding, the grain size should not be larger than 200 µm.

We fasten the legs in pairs with each other using transverse beams (above) and a bowstring (below). We use two screws for each connection.

With the help of a longitudinal lower beam, we connect two bowstrings together.

Fastening of the lower transverse beam

We strengthen the structure with the help of the upper transverse beam.

Advice! In order for the beam to securely connect the two halves, in addition to screws, additional wooden dowels with a diameter of 10 mm should be used.

We cut the ends of the blanks for the braces at an angle of 45 degrees. After that, we attach both braces to the upper and lower transverse beams.

Fastening of the upper transverse beam

We connect the wooden boards intended for the countertop with the cross beams on the inside of the structure.

Additionally, we strengthen the countertop with the help of supporting strips. Make sure that they do not go beyond the dimensions of the table.

Strengthening the structure with support bars

If desired, semicircular corners can be made in the kitchen wooden table, which will give the product a more elegant look.

This option is suitable for a large kitchen or dining room, and for giving

Folding wooden table for a small kitchen

If there is not enough space in the kitchen to accommodate a large or medium-sized table, then you should look for a more original approach. One of these solutions is a folding table that is attached to the wall and is very easy to remove, freeing up the space occupied by itself.

Materials and tools

To make a folding wooden table for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need the following:

furniture board 30 mm thick;
wooden beam 20x60 mm;
loops (6 pcs.);
corner lamella (2 pcs.);
wooden dowels;
dowel;
screws;
drill;
jigsaw;
grinder or sandpaper;
glue;

Assembly: step by step

Advice! Before starting work, decide on the place where the table will be installed. Since the design is attached to the wall, it is very important to take into account all the features of the future interior of the kitchen, so that later you do not have to rearrange, leaving unsightly holes from the dowels in a conspicuous place.

Do-it-yourself kitchen table assembly steps:

We prepare parts for folding legs. To do this, we cut the wooden beam into 8 parts: 4 with a length of 720 mm, 4 with a length of 320 mm. We sand each element, removing burrs.

Assemble two rectangular frames. The rails are interconnected by means of furniture dowels, under which it is first necessary to drill blind holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

We connect the finished frames with each other with loops. In addition, a narrow rail must be attached to one frame with the help of hinges, which will be attached to the wall.

We fix the frame to the wall with dowels, after which we install corner lamellas on the sides. It is important to arrange the slats in such a way that they do not interfere with the legs to fold.

Advice! Instead of corner slats, you can use any furniture corners of the appropriate size, matched to the color of the table.

Fastening the structure to the wall

From a wooden shield we cut out a tabletop measuring 900x600 mm. For a more effective look, the corners can be rounded. After that, all ends should be processed with a grinder.

We “separate” a piece 250 mm long from the tabletop, which will be attached to the wall structure. The two parts are connected to each other by means of loops.

We install the 250 mm part on the corner lamellas and connect the elements with screws.

The final stage of mounting a folding table in the kitchen with your own hands

You can ennoble the table at your discretion by applying stain, varnish or paint. But even in its original form, such a product looks very good.

Wooden folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen

On the Internet, you can find a lot of options for how to make a wooden table with your own hands. We looked at three of the simplest solutions for standard, large and small kitchens, the production of which is quite economical and does not require specialized machines and extensive experience in working with wood. For the manufacture of more complex structures, we recommend that you seek help from specialists.

Finally, watch the video, which shows how you can make a pretty decent kitchen table out of old wooden planks.

Video: do-it-yourself wooden table

This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining table, household table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But purchased products do not suit many for a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for another reason.

Given that the tree is relatively easy to cut, grind, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, with your own hands for a good owner is not a problem. Yes, and it will be much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.

room

This is ideally an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy is also suitable. To work with a tree on a site, in the open air, means to be completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are “square meters” suitable for making furniture, then you should worry about high-quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.

Arguments that if you use protective equipment, then you can work in a closed space, do not stand up to scrutiny. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some actions are performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line, nor a high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention the impregnation and finish coating with a paint and varnish composition) can not be obtained.

It is impossible not to take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.

Instruments

Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” a simple wood structure, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the elegance of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.

For more “fine” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design, special devices will be needed.

El / jigsaw. With a conventional saw, it will not work to make an inclined vertical cut, accurately maintaining the angle. The canvas will “play”, and therefore the quality of the work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, besides it gives high accuracy in cutting wood or cuts in it.

Miter box rotary. The main function is to facilitate corner cutting. Such a device can either be bought or made. A thing, no doubt, useful in the house. The irreplaceable assistant for exact cutting of various preparations. For example, plastic or wooden fillets (floor, ceiling), which are used to decorate any premises during the repair process.

Grinder. There are several modifications of this electric tool on the market, and the criteria for choosing it are a separate issue. For the manufacture of the table is quite suitable tape. It is universal in application, and is used not only in the assembly of furniture.

Manual frezer . If it is necessary to select grooves, process holes, and in a number of other cases, one cannot do without it.

Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if furniture making is not a hobby, but a necessity.

Impregnation and other compounds

Rotting protection:

Working off engine oil is an effective, moreover, free tool. But not for dinner tables.
Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deep into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. Minus - high cost. But if the table is intended for eating - a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing the lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, unlike mining.
The emulsion is water-polymer. It is characterized by duration of action and safety for health.
Acrylic varnishes. They practically replaced their predecessors of the "NC" category, as they are harmless and in many respects better than compounds that are diluted with solvents.
PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry compositions -.

To decorate a tree:

Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the tree, shade it.
Wood stains.
Varnishes with a coloring effect (toning).
Paints (but only for wood!).
Putties.

Using a colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition, and any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a rejected board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. More than expedient, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.

Fasteners

All tips for assembling a wooden table with nails (the argument is simple, fast and cheap) are best ignored. The reasons are as follows:

A nail easily pricks a dry tree (and this is exactly what is taken; more on that below).
Correctly directing his leg (strictly vertically) is quite difficult. In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your oversight.
A tree, even the most protected from rot, eventually succumbs to it. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.

When assembling a wooden table, if one glue is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. It is not advisable to strengthen the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg. The reason is the same - the probability of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, corners are used.

Features of the choice of wood

Someone focuses on the cost of lumber, another is important for the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use for the table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in the back room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of the construction or repair and gathering dust in the barn.

When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if there is not enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in life is just a kind of training in manufacturing, gaining experience.

Tabletop. Here in the first place - strength and minimal absorption of moisture. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. The best choice is pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.

If the dimensions of the countertop are small, then wood-based slab products (OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid enters the surface of the table. For example, LDSP.

Legs. Birch. From moisture it can “lead”, but in terms of strength - an excellent option. The optimal parameters for the blanks for the legs (in cm) are: length - about 76, cross section - 5 x 5. Dowels. Acacia. It is much easier to find than boards from the often recommended boxwood.

In the furniture industry, low-grade lumber is not used. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.

And not just because it's free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood with a competent approach can be turned into pluses. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the countertop acquires a unique original look.

The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.

If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humpbacks. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged in alternation (pink down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same way (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.

For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During the drying of the wood, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly begin to warp, and you will have to deal with its repair. And here you need to decide whether to purchase high-dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.

Firstly, it is necessary to ensure a stable temperature regime in the place where the blanks are stored. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; Even this takes practice.

This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make wood furniture for the first time, one should focus on the simplest table for household needs from cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.

Variants and schemes of wooden tables

It should be noted right away that any work related to the design and self-assembly is a creative process. There are no stereotypes in this business, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms, it is worth choosing structures whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, hiking, hanging, garden, level, and so on.

Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms for a specific purpose, are made stationary, that is, of unchanging size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are fixed rigidly; no articulated joints.

Features of the assembly of wooden tables

If a person undertakes to make something, then he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. Such a home master does not need to be taught the basics of carpentry. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be useful to note. These notes will only help in the process of work.

Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.

On dowels

In this case, the parts are fastened by landing on the adhesive composition (Fig. 1 - 3).

The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders" that are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.

These round sticks are commercially available, in any furniture store, in several sizes. To grind them, even with a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for collapsible connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level racks, etc.).

Nails should not be used to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - a “shat” will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.

On the tsargs

It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be either periodically disassembled, or without it it cannot be moved through the doorway. Although not all kings involve the dismantling of the structure. The most practiced options are shown in the figures.

Bolted

Such connections are mainly used for garden or outbuilding furniture; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.

The nuance of working with fasteners

In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the right direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation with a drill, with a diameter slightly smaller than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, for the "landing" of the self-tapping screw, you can do without a screwdriver.

Features of wood processing

Everyone knows that a planer is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done repeatedly. Here much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with an abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".

To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.

Features of the exterior

Minor defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty composition.
After sanding, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate nozzle will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely proceed to applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the tree.
You can give originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the tabletop or legs, a combination of textures of different species, and so on. One of the good options is art painting.

And finally. Work on the independent manufacture of something from wood (the same table) is just the initial stage in mastering the skill of the “assembly designer”. Having worked out the technologies, techniques on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough just to switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table, made according to even the simplest drawing (except for the pleasure of work and the money saved) are obvious - not wasted time.

Table - furniture without which you can not do either in the city or in the country. The table can be placed on the veranda, in the gazebo or just in a shady place. Behind him you can dine, arrange feasts or play board games in the fresh air. Inexpensive, you can only buy a plastic, not large table, a large wooden table for giving is cheaper to do it yourself. The article will present three options for tables and drawings for their manufacture.

Table dimensions and construction features

The optimal size of the tabletop for a summer house is 80x120 cm. A smaller table will be significantly inferior in functionality, a large table will be too bulky and it will be difficult to clean it for the winter. The size of the table 80x120 cm will allow you to hold solemn feasts with the number of participants 8 - 10 people.

A table for a summer residence is easiest to make from boards. In addition, it is the most accessible and inexpensive material. The advantage of making a wooden table is that the boards can be sawn to the desired size at any construction base, and brought to the dacha without any problems, thereby saving on transportation. It should be noted that with a table dimensions of 75x80x120 cm, the longest board will be a table top board 120 cm long. A board of this length will fit into almost any car.

There are a lot of varieties of table designs, but by and large the difference is only in the form of legs on which the table top rests. Therefore, the legs of the table are the most complex element of the entire structure.

Table top

The tabletop at the table in the country is made of boards. The thickness of the boards can be from 30 to 50 mm. However, the best option is a board with a thickness of 40 mm.

An important point is cutting boards. With a worktop length of 120 cm, you need 5.3 boards 150 mm wide, 6.6 boards 120 mm wide and 8 boards 100 mm wide. Considering that the boards are sold with a length of just over 6 m, it is advisable to choose a board with a width of 100 mm for the countertop.

By choosing a board with a width of 100 mm, you will not have to adjust or resize the table top, which will greatly simplify the work on setting up the table. In addition, there will be 2 more boards 120 mm long, which can be used for other parts.

If you can’t get the right board, you can make the countertop not solid, but at intervals. Such a countertop will look no less interesting. At the same time, water that can accumulate on a table with a solid top will drain through the gaps between the boards.

Table with straight legs

A table with straight legs is the simplest design of a table for a summer residence. This is a stable, comfortable table that will serve well both indoors and outdoors.

Fig.1.

The legs for the table consist of 4 elements, 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. The upper horizontal rack is attached to the tabletop, the lower one is a support.

Fig.2.

Leg design may vary. For example, instead of resting on the bottom board, you can make sure that the support is on vertical posts, and the bottom board can be made as an additional one for strength.

Pay attention to this design, the connection of the boards is carried out without additional grooves. This greatly simplifies the assembly of the table. In order for all elements to be well fixed, it is necessary to glue all joints with wood glue. In this case, the boards can be connected with self-tapping screws.

Fig.3.

Collect legs. To do this, you need to saw according to the drawing of the board. Treat the joints with glue and tighten with self-tapping screws or a confirmant.
On a flat area, lay out the boards for the table top, mark the position of the legs and fix the boards of the table top through the top bar of the legs.
Install a horizontal tie between the legs.
Wait 2 - 3 hours until the glue dries and clean the table from burrs and sharp edges.
Next, the table can be varnished. Or just treat with an antiseptic.

Table with X shaped legs

A table with X-shaped legs is essentially not much different from a table with straight legs, it just has a different shape of the legs. However, it is impossible to manufacture without creating additional grooves on the legs. This makes the job a little more difficult.

Fig.4.

Table legs consist of 3 elements. Two crossed supports and a vertical top bar. The top bar, as in the previous case, is necessary for fixing the tabletop.

Fig.5.

To connect the legs in inclined supports, it is necessary to make a slot in the floor of the board.

Fig.6.

The assembly order of the table is as follows:

Cut the boards to the required length.
In the legs make a groove in the floor of the board. The groove can be made with a jigsaw or a milling cutter.
Collect legs. The connections are glued. Parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
The tabletop boards are laid out and the assembled legs are attached to them.
Install the bottom screed board.
Treat the table from burrs and varnish.

Table with benches

A table with benches is quite often installed on verandas or in the open air. Unlike the designs described above, it does not require additional benches or chairs, the benches are included in the design of the table.

Fig.7.

The disadvantage of this version of the table for the country house is that the design turns out to be rather cumbersome, and it becomes very problematic to remove it for the winter.

Fig.8.

The design feature of the table is that the benches are fixed directly on the legs of the table. The crossbars on which the benches are attached are at the same time a coupler of the legs, and the benches play the role of a longitudinal coupler.

Fig.9.

The assembly order of the table with benches is as follows:

Cut boards to desired length.
Assemble the legs and support for the flooring of the bench. The joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.
Mark the boards for the countertop and mount them to the legs.
Fix benches.
Treated with impregnation or antiseptic.