Impregnation of wood with potassium permanganate. Preparing the garden for winter: autumn disinfection of trees, soil

Wood is an eco-friendly, warm, visually pleasing multifunctional material. But he, of course, is not eternal. To prolong the service life of wooden products, it is necessary to treat wood from rotting and moisture. From our article, you will learn how firing will help wood, and how bleaching will help, learn the rules for waxing a product and be able to understand the intricacies of painting and staining.

Why do you need to treat the surface of wooden products?

The safety of furniture, household items, building elements - this is the main goal of wood finishing. If the wood rots, waste away: those who say that the house will fall apart from rotten wood do not exaggerate.

A rotten product loses its strength very quickly, it becomes 20 times weaker, and its density is halved. Such changes are fatal for a wooden structure or furniture. But that's not all: a rotting tree is harmful to human health. Molds that immediately attack the wood provoke respiratory diseases.

Mold and fungus on wood

Mold fungus appears due to:

contact of the material with the ground (wood beetles, various bacteria and microorganisms quickly begin to "host" in the wood);
a sharp drop in temperature - an untreated surface tends to absorb moisture, therefore the liquid absorbed in cold weather further expands, forms cracks in the tree, which inevitably leads to the development of rot;
high air humidity (above 80%);
high humidity of the wood itself;
stagnant air.

You can understand that the material is rotting by visual signs of loss of density and hardness, by the appearance of small cracks on it, by a change in the color of the material. Therefore, the treatment of wood from the influence of moisture and rotting is not a point of free choice, but of mandatory protection of the material and extension of the service life of the product.

Burning

One of the most ancient recipes against aging and decay of wood is roasting. A long time ago, people noticed that burnt wood retains its strength and density longer. The advantages of firing speak for themselves: there is no need to use chemical components, processing can be carried out not necessarily in the workshop, the material becomes fire resistant and wear resistant. And among the shortcomings, one can only mention the laboriousness of the process.

An example of wood processing by surface firing

Types of wood processing by firing:

full firing- the material in this case is sent to a vacuum furnace, this type is rarely used, because the tree can reduce the quality of operational properties;
deep firing- carried out in open-type ovens, the burn-out depth of the upper layer cannot be more than 2 cm (methol is often used for used wood);
surface firing- the most popular option, the wood is evenly burned with a gas burner, only the top 5 mm layer needs to be processed.

Cedar, beech, hornbeam, poplar, alder, walnut, larch - all these species are successfully processed by firing. Initially, the wood should have low moisture content (13% maximum), there should be no traces of paintwork on the material. If the coating is not removed, then the resinous substances in its composition during firing will be unevenly distributed over the surface, which will spoil the appearance of the product.

Cedar, beech, hornbeam, poplar, alder, walnut, larch - these species are successfully processed by firing.

Firing consists of the following stages: selection of material, bringing to a dry and clean state (grinding), processing with a blowtorch or gas burner. And although the burnt surface has improved its operational status, it will have to be processed again. Oil, protective varnish, synthetic wax: the choice of impregnation agents is not small.

Whitening

Bleaching (or lightening) wood is usually aimed at eliminating stains on wood so that the decorative properties of the product or structure do not raise questions.

Why Whitening Is Necessary:

a mold fungus appears on the surface of the material, and even if it has already been removed, darkening, stains, as traces of its vital activity, remain;
the tree naturally ages;
dyes of different nature fall on the surface;
chemically aggressive substances get on the wood, change its structure and color.

The wood bleaching procedure does not always involve inviting specialists. Very often craftsmen manage on their own. You can do this with the help of special chemical bleaches and antiseptics sold in building markets. You can make a solution according to a folk recipe, but this method does not always give a guaranteed result.

And yet one of these folk methods is still in demand. Hydrogen peroxide and an aqueous solution of ammonia and ammonia are a good combination for bleaching wood. All work should be carried out outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. The proportions are selected experimentally, as they depend on the state of the surface, the type of wood.

Consider a phased whitening using a popular recipe as an example:

You will need - 250 g of soda, 2 kg of bleach, 5 liters of water.
Mix all the ingredients, leave the solution for several hours.
You can apply the composition to the surface with a brush, roller, spray.
7 minutes after applying the composition, wipe the wood with vinegar, after 15-20 minutes you can evaluate the result.
If the wood is very dark and old, the procedure may need to be repeated.
In difficult cases, the product is soaked in the finished composition for half an hour.

Waxing

Wood has been protected by waxing for over 1000 years. Wax establishes a special contact with coniferous trees, preserving the aroma and texture of the latter.

Why wood needs waxing:

the thinnest film is formed on the wood surface, which makes it possible to protect the material from the destructive action of moisture;
the agent penetrates deeply into the fibers, makes them stronger, but does not clog the pores of the tree, leaving it the opportunity to "breathe";
it is almost impossible to leave scratches on waxed wood;
the visual characteristics of the material are noticeably improved;
beeswax is a natural, versatile product for wood processing;
a wax layer with coloring components can correct the color of the tree.

Wax can be soft, liquid and hard. Liquid material gives the wood shine, solid copes with visual defects, soft protects against dust and stains.

Phased waxing:

Preparation of material with two stages of grinding.
Removal of the facing composition, if any. Wax can only be applied to the bare wood structure.
Processing involves coating with both oil and wax, so you can initially saturate the tree with oil, which will enhance the effect of the wax.
Wax is applied with a tissue swab, foam sponge or a wide brush. Only hard types need a synthetic bristle brush to apply.
The first layer is applied in a wide circular motion, the lack of color will be removed with a new layer and polishing. Then you wait as much time as indicated in the instructions for the wax, and apply a new layer.
In order for a satin sheen to appear on the tree, it must be polished with a soft cloth (5 minutes, no more). But the mirror surface will require a longer polishing.

Waxing has a lot of advantages: the naturalness of the composition, and a wonderful decorative effect, and good protective characteristics. But there is also a minus: if, due to ignorance (or negligence), you apply several layers of wax, the color and texture of the product can change significantly.

An informative video tells about the processing of wooden products with oil and wax.

Painting

A lot of people work with wood today: boho panels, elegant in their simplicity, are increasingly decorating interiors, and photophones for Instagram even allow enterprising artisans to make great money. And painting wood - one of the most popular types of its processing, is becoming interesting to an increasing number of people today. The choice of paints and varnishes is taking into account the type of wood used, the possibility of re-painting, compatibility with existing coatings and, of course, decorative tasks.

Acrylic paints allow the wood to breathe, are resistant to temperature extremes and do not fade in the sun.

Paints and varnishes are divided into three types (or groups) - transparent compositions, dispersion coatings, opaque enamels. Transparent impregnations will protect the tree from the sun and emphasize the natural pattern of the tree. The dispersion group will preserve the color of the wood, increase its climate resistance and vapor permeability. Opaque enamels are the traditional coloring compositions most familiar to us.

Painting wood at home - compositions:

oil- in recent years they have been rarely used, drying oil in the formula of the composition makes it toxic and unpleasant in smell;
alkyd- they are convenient in many respects, but they dry quickly, and therefore they cannot penetrate into the deep layers of wood (the alkyd coating is short-lived);
acrylic- market leaders, because these compositions allow wood to breathe, do not differ in pungent odors, retain color for a long time, tolerate frost well, etc.

If you are for the quality of the result, then the tree must be treated with an antiseptic. And this is done before painting. Thanks to the treatment of wood with anti-rot and moisture, you will not encounter fungus, mold, flowering and decay.

A mixture of propolis and vegetable oil is well suited for this purpose. For 1 part oil, take 3 parts of propolis, apply the mixture on a clean, sanded surface. Let the layer dry.

Finally, painting will put the finishing touch to the woodworking. It will be protected from pests, attack by fungi and mold. Painting does not allow the tree to crack prematurely, it protects it from moisture and, finally, completes the decorative solution of the object. With high-quality processing, a wooden structure will last at least 50 years (or rather, 100 or more). Without processing, a tree will definitely not make it to a half-century-long service.

Staining

Wood stain treatment solves an important problem - inexpressive wood species become more spectacular in appearance, the material receives protection from negative environmental factors.

Types of stains

The basis for the product can be water, alcohol, oil and more. Each composition has its own specifics.

Types of means for staining:

Water. Water stains are sold either in a ready-to-use form, or in the consistency of a powder to be diluted. Good adhesion of the composition, favorable visual characteristics, lack of smell - all these are the advantages of water stains. But there are also disadvantages: raised pile and stains when processing resinous rocks.
Alcohol. Also sold in liquid and powder form, applied with an airbrush. If you need to finish large areas, it makes sense to purchase such a stain.
Oil. It can be applied both manually and with a spray gun. It dries for several hours, but is not afraid of sunlight and retains color saturation for years.
Wax and acrylic. Excellent moisture protection products that keep a uniform tone and do not leave streaks. An excellent choice for furniture restoration.

This video clearly shows how to properly apply wood stain on wood.

But these are not all options for affordable staining.

Potassium permanganate

Processing wood with potassium permanganate is an affordable and cheap recipe for transforming natural material. Manganese solution allows you to get a rich brown or cherry hue. For 1 liter of water you will need 50 g of potassium permanganate. Take only warm water. Mix the mixture thoroughly and apply to the tree immediately after preparation. 5 minutes after natural treatment, wipe the surface with a damp cloth.

You may need several such procedures to make the shade darker and more saturated. The result will please you with a quick transformation that does not require the use of chemicals. An alternative to potassium permanganate can be a solution of willow or alder bark, black walnut tincture, onion husk decoction, nut shell powder.

Each of the listed wood processing methods (from fire to manganese solution) does not just change the material, it improves its performance, appearance, and properties. Finally, it allows you to feel like an artist who makes this world a little better.

In contact with

The staining process is described in many articles, however, very little information is given about the materials used in this case. Of course, if you turn over a lot of sites and forums of furniture makers, you can find information on how to prepare a stain, although for the most part such recipes resemble a kind of witchcraft mysteries. Well, it turns out that you can’t make a stain with your own hands?

Of course, you can purchase ready-made products, but a do-it-yourself wood stain prepared for wood will delight you incredibly much. Indeed, in this case, you can cook something special, “your own”. Recipes do not have strict restrictions, which means that you can add something more, something less, eventually getting a unique composition that may please you with an incredible effect. In this article, we bring to your attention both simple and practical recipes, as well as more complex options.

Remember that the color of the stain should have certain differences from the color of the material to be stained. Most often, the stain is slightly darker than the main, processed material.

Tea and coffee at work

Light breeds can be slightly darkened by using a sufficiently strong tea brew. The presence of tannin in tea leaves is the basis for the saturation of the color of wood. As you understand, in this case, various variations are possible, depending on the concentration of tea leaves.

A decoction of ground coffee beans actually allows you to get very unexpected and interesting shades of color combinations. You can also use instant coffee for these purposes, but strong. You can add baking soda to coffee beans, this will allow you to get even more interesting tones and shades.

Decoctions of herbs and plants

1. For processing birch, a fairly strong decoction of larch bark is often used. In this case, the shade will turn out to be pronounced, reddish.

2. If you are aiming for a brown color, then use nutshell powder. To do this, take a slightly rotten walnut shell, dry it in the shade, crush it into powder and brew it in boiling water. After that, the broth must be filtered by adding a small amount of soda or potassium carbonate to it.

In this case, it is also possible to obtain a slightly reddish tint if, after the treated surface has dried, treat it with an aqueous solution of potassium dichromate. If you treat the surface with acetic acid, then the shade will become a little grayish.

3. To create a reddish tint of light trees, it is best to use a decoction of onion peel. The decoction must be very strong. You can use it as an independent coating or as a kind of additive to any brown stain.

4. If you want to get an even brown color with a natural look, use the following recipe: chopped oak bark, alder earrings, willow bark, walnut shell is taken in equal parts. The whole composition is thoroughly mixed and poured with cold water. After that, bring the broth to a boil and add 0.5 tsp of baking soda. The solution should be boiled a little over low heat. We filter and process the surface.

You can also use a solution of black walnut tincture, willow and apple bark. You get a very even brown color.

5. A solution of alder and willow bark will allow you to get a fairly rich black color.

6. If you are trying to get a uniform color on relief forms, you need to pre-soak the product with cottonseed oil. It must be warmed up before use. Thus, you can, firstly, make the thread more durable, and secondly, give the product a dark, noble color. After such processing, the product can be varnished and polished.

7. Using a decoction of unripe buckthorn fruits, you can get a yellowish tint, but only for light woods. If you want to get a brown color, use a decoction of walnut shells and apple bark.

If alum is added to any of the above decoctions, then a brighter color tone can be obtained.

Popular recipe - ebony

In the process of coating wooden products, many non-standard recipes are used. Iron shavings or small nails, which must first be degreased, are poured with acetic acid. This composition must be infused from a day to a week, the saturation of the solution depends on the time of infusion. The infusion should stand in a dark place.

It has a rather sharp smell, so it is best to work with such a stain exclusively in the fresh air. In America, such a recipe is called ebony, because after processing the material gets a rich, pronounced black color.

It should be noted that experts say that after such a treatment, in no case should you use a water-based polyurethane varnish, as it will simply curl up. This phenomenon is due to the presence of high concentration vinegar.

If you want to get a cherry or dark brown shade, it is best to use a solution of potassium permanganate. Do-it-yourself wood stain based on potassium permanganate is one of the most effective processing methods.

Per liter of water - 50g. potassium permanganate. The water must be warm. Mix gently and thoroughly. Apply to the product immediately after preparation. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth five minutes after treatment. The processing process can be repeated until the desired color and shade is achieved.

When processing birch veneer, a golden brown color can be obtained. To do this, use a 3.5% solution of potassium permanganate. After processing, the product must be varnished, otherwise the potassium permanganate will simply fade over time.

Chemical Tricks

Do-it-yourself wood stain can be made on the basis of various chemical components:

1. The surface of the tree can be treated with potassium carbonate (no more than 35 grams per liter of water), you can use soda ash (75 grams). After drying, the surface must be moistened with tannin (50g per liter of water).

2. Oak - a tree with a high tannin content, can be treated with slaked lime. After drying, the material will acquire a light brown color. The walnut can thus be dyed greenish-brown.

3. To make the oak even darker, you can use ammonia diluted in water (88%). It is very important not to inhale alcohol vapors while working and to prevent it from getting on the skin, otherwise a burn will appear. It is best to work with such preparations in the open air, but it must be borne in mind that in this case it can very quickly lose its effectiveness. Therefore, it should be applied quickly, and portions should be mixed gradually.

After the tree acquires the shade you need, you need to wash off the solution from the surface with plain water. If you are painting a small part, then you can simply put it in a glass dish, put a jar of alcohol in it, close the dish itself tightly. In a couple of hours the part will be ready.

4. A decoction of barberry root can help you stain sliced veneer yellow. After preparation, the broth must be filtered and no more than 2% of alum added to it. After adding, heat the solution again. Apply chilled. All ingredients can be purchased at the pharmacy.

5. Using a decoction of young shoots of poplar, supplementing it with alum, you can get a very expressive orange color. Recipe: 150g. poplar branches per 1 liter. water. Bring to a boil, add alum and cook for one hour. The mixture must be filtered and left for a certain time in an open container. It is best to produce the settling process within a week. The broth should acquire a golden yellow color.

6. If you want to get greenish shades, use a decoction of alum, poplar shoots and oak bark. Also, verdigris powder can help you in this process. 50-60gr. dissolve in vinegar and boil for 10-15 minutes. Ideal for sliced veneers that need to be soaked in a hot solution.

7. If you want to get a black color, use wolfberry juice, which must be mixed with acids. Use baking soda to get the blue color. If you want to get a red tint, mix the juice of wolfberries with Glauber's salt, if you mix the juice of berries with vitriol, you can get a pronounced brown color, and the combination of juice with potash will give you a green tone.

8. To achieve a gray or silver finish (sliced veneer), use a 1:1 combination of rainwater and vinegar. Place wire or rusty nails in this solution. When the solution is infused, it can be applied to the product.

At the dacha, you want comfort and beauty so much! How to properly prepare the garden for future plantings, what to do with flowers, soil and trees in late autumn - in our material.

The main season of vegetables and fruits has passed, it's time to take care of preparing the garden for winter, or rather, its disinfection. In autumn, with high humidity in any area, the activity of pathogenic bacteria, fungi and pests of the garden increases. To prevent infection, it is necessary to take measures to protect the site.

Soil disinfection

After harvesting, the site from which it was harvested must be prepared for the next season. Digging up the soil or not depends on the agricultural technology that you use, but the disinfection of the earth is equally necessary for everyone. It should not be neglected, because during the season pathogenic microorganisms, bacteria and pests could accumulate in the soil.

The most popular and effective method is disinfection with a solution of potassium permanganate (or simply potassium permanganate). These are dark-colored crystals, which, dissolving in water, color it in shades of purple: at a low concentration - in light pink, at a high concentration - in purple.

Our grandmothers also knew about the beneficial properties of potassium permanganate: they washed wounds with it, treated poisoning, and used it in pest control in the garden. Such a widespread use of potassium permanganate explains its main property - it is an antifungal, antimicrobial drug. Due to active oxidation processes, potassium permanganate kills harmful microbes that cause various infections.

For autumn processing, a solution is made in the following proportion: 3-5 g (one bottle) of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water. They are watered the ground and left until spring.

The second most popular disease-fighting agent in the garden is copper sulfate (or copper sulfate). It is used both as a monopreparation and in combination with another chemical - slaked lime, obtaining a Bordeaux mixture. We will talk about it in more detail a little later, but now we will focus on the properties and characteristics of copper sulfate.

It is a bright blue crystals, the same shade has its aqueous solution. The substance perfectly copes with mold, fungus, pathogenic microorganisms. A solution for disinfecting the soil after harvesting is prepared as follows: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of copper sulfate. Water with this liquid should be moderate, since copper sulfate is a toxic substance.

In especially neglected cases, the soil can also be cultivated with ordinary bleach (bleach). It is produced in the form of a liquid (it is often used to bleach fabrics and disinfect surfaces) and powder. Approximately 100 g of bleach powder is added per 1 m2. It is scattered over the surface and embedded in the soil.

Approximately the same is done with formalin. Its effect is weaker compared to bleach - plants can be planted after formalin treatment in 15-20 days. First you need to dig grooves, pour formalin into them, cover with earth and leave for a while. After that, it is necessary to dig the earth well and leave it for two weeks. After that, the soil is again carefully dug up.

Boiling treatment. It also happens that there is nothing at all in the country: no special preparations, no other disinfectants, but you still need to cultivate the soil. Hot water will help. Yes, the most common boiling water can destroy pathogenic soil microorganisms. Here, in general, everything is simple: fill a watering can with a sprinkler with hot water and water the surface of the earth. Then a well-spilled bed is covered with a film to keep the hot steam longer, and left in this form for a while.

Processing of trees and shrubs

SPRAYING. This is where Bordeaux liquid should be remembered. As we have already said, it is obtained from a mixture of copper sulfate and slaked lime in equal proportions or with a slight predominance of lime. Why is pure vitriol not used for tree processing? The fact is that its aqueous solution has an acidic environment, which can harm plants. Hydrated lime softens it, forming a turquoise-colored liquid suitable for spraying plants. It will help rid trees and shrubs of many diseases: gray rot, scab, purple spotting, coccomycosis, etc.

Spraying with urea also has a beneficial effect on plants. For example, if you carry out this procedure immediately after harvesting, thoroughly wetting the skeletal branches and trunk, you can protect trees and shrubs from scab. To prepare the solution, dilute 500 g of the product in 10 liters of water.

WHITEWASH. Autumn processing of trees also includes bark protection. In order not to find rather deep vertical cracks (frost cracks) on the trunk in the spring, a number of measures must be taken. Typically, these wounds are caused by sudden changes in temperature in winter, when the sun heats the bark during the day, and at night it cools sharply. Whitewashing the trunks will help to avoid this. The bark of young trees is very tender, so it does not have to be specially prepared, and old plants will have to be tinkered with.

Before you start painting trees, you need to prepare them. First you need to clean the trunk of moss, lichen, old peeling bark. This will not only make the whitewash better lie on the surface, but will also help to destroy pests that have prepared for wintering - the causative agents of many diseases: rust, powdery mildew, etc.

If possible, it is better to purchase a ready-made solution of water-dispersion paint. It already contains the additives necessary to protect the bark. The composition is also good because it does not prevent the tree from breathing and at the same time does not transmit ultraviolet radiation.

In the case when there was no paint, you can prepare whitewash yourself. You will need the most ordinary crushed chalk (ceiling whitewash). To prevent it from being washed away by the very first rain, wallpaper glue or starch is added to the solution, and for additional disinfection, copper sulfate is already well known to us (by the way, it will give the whitewash a beautiful light blue color). For 2 kg of whitewash, take 400 g of copper sulfate diluted in hot water and 50 g of glue. The density of the solution is brought to the consistency of liquid sour cream - so that the paint does not drain from the barrel, but does not form a thick crust.

FUMIGATION. This method is used quite rarely because of its complexity and fire hazard. However, this is quite an effective and most environmentally friendly method for treating trees and shrubs from pests - carriers of diseases.

It is carried out as follows. Wet straw, fallen leaves or even peat are laid around the tree, on which several kilograms of tobacco dust (a by-product of tobacco production) - a natural insecticide - are poured. Some also use coniferous tree branches, rich in essential oils, the smell of which is not tolerated by insects. Due to the fact that the base is wet, there will be practically no fire around the tree, but there will be plenty of smoke. It is this smoke that will cause the death of not only adult pests, but also their larvae.

In order not to burn the tree and not start a fire, you should follow the safety rules:
do not carry out processing in windy weather;
do not move away from smoldering straw;
constantly check it for open flames;
have extinguishing agents with you.

Disinfection of utility rooms

It is also important to mention the disinfection of everything that helps us to receive, harvest or preserve the crop. We will talk about the disinfection of greenhouses and greenhouses, cellars, sheds, as well as garden tools.

GREENHOUSES AND GREENHOUSES. In order to have less work next year, you can tidy up the place for growing vegetables now. Greenhouses made of polycarbonate or glass are first cleaned of the ropes to which the plants were tied (after all, pathogens can also overwinter on them), and then the walls and frame are washed with a solution of bleach.

By and large, you can stop at this, but there is another way of disinfection - sulfur checkers. Such a checker is installed on a non-combustible base (for example, a piece of iron or bricks) in the center of the greenhouse and set on fire.

Don't forget to close all windows first. During the time that the checker is burning, acrid smoke will be released, which is extremely dangerous to inhale. It is he who will disinfect the room, penetrating into the smallest cracks. This method is also suitable for film greenhouses: until the film is removed, the smoke will disinfect the frame from the inside.

CELLAR AND SHED. Usually, for those who carefully manage the household, these rooms are always clean.

In the hozblok, before putting the inventory for storage, it will be enough to rinse the floor with bleach. If mold has formed somewhere or traces of a fungal disease have become visible, additional treatment with copper sulfate will be required. It is usually enough to process the cellars with the same sulfur bomb: the smoke will disinfect the vegetable store and thereby protect the new crop from spoilage. Sometimes, due to high humidity or flooding, cellar walls can become covered with mold and fungus. In this case, you will have to prepare a thick whitewash with a high concentration of copper sulfate and cover the surfaces with it.

GARDENING EQUIPMENT AND SHOES should also prepare for the new season. The first thing to do is to clear it of the remnants of earth, grass and leaves. Then, for disinfection, rinse with water with the addition of either bleach or potassium permanganate. Do not forget to treat the inventory shafts as well: bacteria can also persist on them. After that, garden tools must be dried and, if necessary, sharpened.

Information signs-beacons for landings should also not be thrown away. Collect them from all the beds and wash them with laundry soap, then dry them - and they can be reused.

Garden gloves and aprons, depending on their quality and price, can also be saved: wash them by hand with laundry soap without adding any chemicals.

So next spring you will receive fully prepared inventory for the season.

EVENTUALLY
As you can see, garden disinfection is a very important and necessary process. It will not only disinfect the soil and cure the affected trees, but also protect healthy plants from infections, insects, and also allow you to get more high-quality crops.

Copper, brass and bronze products are degreased in a solution containing 100 g of trisodium phosphate and 10-20 ml of liquid glass in 1 liter of water. After degreasing, the product is thoroughly washed in hot water and immersed in 5% hydrochloric acid for 30-60 seconds to remove the metal oxide layer, after which the product is washed again with water and immediately transferred to the coating solution.
For "coloring" copper products in different colors recommend using the following recipes
17. Dissolve 4 g of sodium hydroxide and 4 g of lactose (milk sugar) in 100 ml of water, boil the solution for several minutes, and then add 4 ml of a concentrated solution of copper sulphate in small portions with continuous stirring. The defatted product is immersed in a hot solution, and depending on the duration of processing, its surface acquires a color from golden to green, brown or even black. As a result of the redox chemical reaction of copper sulfate with lactose in an alkaline environment, gluconic acid is obtained and a precipitate of copper (I) oxide is released. First, a thin yellow Cu2O film is formed, which gives the copper surface a golden hue. With prolonged heating, the Cu2O crystals coarsen, become dark red, hence the change in the color of the coating
18. Prepare a solution of 2 g of nickel sulfate, 4 g of Bertolet salt, 18 g of copper sulfate and 0.2 g of potassium permanganate in 100 ml of water. Processing copper products with a warm solution of this composition gives them " bronze" view
19. Dissolve 12.5 g of ammonium carbonate in 100 ml of water and add 4 ml of ammonia. The resulting solution is applied with a brush to the surface of the product and a surface is obtained. greenish color. Under the action of ammonia on the copper surface in the presence of atmospheric oxygen, a complex salt is formed, which then interacts with ammonium carbonate, releasing a green precipitate of copper hydroxide carbonate Сu2CO3 (OH) 2 on the metal surface.
20. Copper slander weed liver solution. To obtain a sulfuric liver, 1 part (by mass) of sulfur and 2 parts of potash are fused in an iron can. After cooling, the glassy black mass is removed from the jar and finely crushed. You can store sulfur liver only in an airtight container. Make a 10-15% solution of sulfuric liver in water, bring the solution to a boil and lower the parts into it. Blackening time 0.5 - 1 min. If the product is complex - it consists of parts, then they are blackened and polished before assembly.
21. Brass is blackened in the following solution: 200 g of copper carbonate and 1 g of ammonia (25%) are dissolved in 1 liter of water. Parts are processed in a solution at a temperature temperature 30-40°С, treatment time 3-5 min
22. "rust converter"turns it into a durable brown surface coating. A 15-30% aqueous solution of phosphoric acid is applied to the product with a brush or spray gun and the product is allowed to air dry. It is even better to use phosphoric acid with additives, for example, 4 ml of butyl alcohol or 15 g tartaric acid per 1 liter of phosphoric acid solution.Orthophosphoric acid converts rust components into iron orthophosphate FePO4, which creates a protective film on the surface.At the same time, tartaric acid binds part of the iron derivatives into tartrate complexes.
23. Old recipe ointments to protect the metal from rust is as follows: melt 100 g of lard, add 1.5 g of camphor, remove the foam from the melt and mix it with graphite, ground into powder, so that the composition becomes black. The metal is lubricated with a cooled ointment and left for a day, and then the metal is polished with a woolen cloth.
Padding walls, an operation to create an intermediate layer (primer), firmly bonded to both a plastered surface and a layer of putty, whitewash or paint. Cracks are closed at the same time.
Mixtures for priming on drying oil.
24. Vitriol primer: dissolve 150-200 g of copper sulfate in 2-3 liters of boiling water, separately dissolve 200 g of wood glue in 2-3 liters of water. Add 25-30 ml of drying oil to the glue solution, filter and add a solution of copper sulfate, 250 g of planed laundry soap and 2-3 kg of chalk powder, and then add water to 10 liters. The mixture is filtered through a mesh cloth (for example, through gauze)
25. Alum primer contains 150-200 g of potassium alum, 200 g of soap, 200 g of wood glue, 25-30 ml of drying oil and 2-3 kg of chalk powder in 10 liters of water, and it is prepared in the same way as vitriol
26. Soap primer consists of 2-3 kg of slaked lime, 500 g of soap, 100 g of drying oil and water. First, dissolve the soap in 2-3 liters of boiling water and pour drying oil into this solution with thorough mixing. Then slaked lime is added to the resulting emulsion, mixed with a small amount of water to a doughy state. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and water is added to 10 liters.

Processing wood with special compounds increases the strength of the material, providing reliable protection against aggressive influences and destruction. When making an antiseptic for wood with your own hands, you should remember the high toxicity of the component composition.

The need to process large areas of a wooden house, or a bath, requires the use of significant volumes and is a financially costly stage of construction work. The best option in this situation is to purchase the necessary chemicals and prepare an antiseptic for wood with your own hands.

The choice of a suitable composition depends on the desired processing properties. The classification of antiseptics is formed on a component basis:

oil base;
wax base;
water base;
solvents.

Antiseptics are also distinguished depending on the type of construction work: for internal or external use. Internal processing must be safe and environmentally friendly. External treatment products include a base that combines the properties of an antiseptic and resistance to weathering (temperature changes, ultraviolet).

The composition of the antiseptic

The qualitative characteristics of the component composition of the solution will help determine how to make an antiseptic for wood with your own hands of the required type. Preparation of funds can be made on the basis of:

copper sulfate, or iron (iron, or copper sulfate);
iodine, or brilliant green;
bitumen;
biocidal, or clay pastes;
sodium fluoride.

Oil-based or bitumen-based products effectively protect wood even when in the ground from moisture and fungal infections. Viscous solutions penetrate deeply into the structure of the material. The disadvantage of treatment with oil products in combination with substances of a coke-chemical nature is a high level of toxicity.

Traditionally, water-salt mixtures are used. The scope depends on the concentration of the solution. Unlike oil or bituminous options, the products are less toxic, easy to prepare and do not require special conditions for the transportation of components.

The disadvantage of the composition is the need to apply an insulating outer layer, which will increase the resistance to washing off.

Main Applications

A do-it-yourself antiseptic for wood allows you to use the solution in large volumes to achieve the desired result:

External protection of wooden structures from moisture and ultraviolet radiation.
Processing of wood materials during open transportation.
Protection of areas subject to increased exposure to moisture (underground, deepening into the ground).
Bacteriological protection against insects, fungus and mold.

The compositions can be used as a surface coating or material impregnation. The combination of antiseptic substances with varnishes, or coloring agents, additionally provides a decorative surface.

Important aspects of preparation and application

Basic manufacturing rules will help you figure out how to make a quality solution. Information about toxic constituents and the necessary precautions will need to be carefully reviewed. When choosing a recipe, it is important to consider the availability of ingredients.

Initially, you will need to prepare the necessary equipment (containers, brushes, watering cans, spatulas) and choose a place to make the solution. The preparation process directly depends on the basis and component composition of the mixture. It is important to pay attention to the degree of toxicity of substances.

Application of liquid solutions should be carried out with a spray gun, thicker ones - with wide brushes, or a sponge. Internal work is carried out in a ventilated room.

Recipe for copper sulphate

Do-it-yourself antiseptic for wood from vitriol must take into account certain proportions of the substance, calculated on the desired volume of the finished mixture. You will need to prepare the chemical components:

copper sulphate (50% of the composition of the dry part);
sodium dichromate (50%);
water (in the ratio of dry matter 1 kg / 9 liters of water);
table vinegar 9% (1000 ml of water / 5.5 ml of vinegar).

The process of making a paste based on vitriol involves mixing dry ingredients in equal proportions. To improve the dissolution of substances to the required consistency, heating water to 50 ° C will help. The made paste is thoroughly mixed, and is ready for use.

Cooking rules should take into account safety measures, because the resulting antiseptic, blue vitriol for a tree with your own hands is toxic. Avoid contact with the solution on the skin and mucous membranes. It is advisable to use special protective clothing, goggles, a respirator.

bitumen paste

Do-it-yourself antiseptics for deep penetration wood are made on the basis of bitumen. Additional components for the solution are gasoline, or diesel fuel. The need for deep impregnation is often caused by aggressive environmental influences.

The recipe requires special care. Bitumen is placed in a metal container and heated until the lumps disappear. The thermal effect is stopped when the required degree of viscosity of the agent is reached. Next, a solvent is added. To achieve optimal penetration of the solution, you can immerse the elements that require processing in the finished mixture. Bituminous antiseptic has a high degree of adhesion to the wood surface.

Protective solution options

It is affordable to make a simple and effective do-it-yourself wood preservative. The recipe has an available composition based on sodium fluoride solution. The concentration of the substance from 0.5% to 4% is selected depending on the need for internal or external processing.

To facilitate visual control over the thickness of the application of the protective layer, the addition of potassium permanganate (10 g) will help. Over time, the color of the coating will disappear. Work on wood processing is carried out with a wide brush, or with a spray gun.

Sulfate mixtures are used to protect against destruction of wooden parts immersed in the ground. The main component of 10-20% is diluted in 10 liters of water. The desired effect can be achieved only if the impregnation is kept for a long time and the surface is properly dried.

Oil impregnations are widely used for interior work. The safety of the base is achieved due to the natural composition. Various types of oils are used (linseed, hemp) in combination with additives (extracts with tannins). Treatment with oil compositions increases the decorative effect, restores the texture and enhances the insulation of the material from moisture.

The choice of treatment for wood depends on the individual requirements for the coating. The degree of protection can be adjusted by selecting the required concentration and thickness of the protective layer. Means, properly made with one's own hand, are not inferior in quality and effectiveness to ready-made solutions.