Projects of frame baths 3x6. Projects and construction of a frame bath

Electrical installation includes:

wiring by points with a non-combustible cable VVG NG in metal corrugation at the rate of no more than 5 points per room. Cross-section of cables 3x2.5 for sockets; 3x1.5 for switches; 3x4 power. Customer consumables.

The septic kit includes:

1. Station Topas 5 pr;
2. Laying 2 m. sewer pipe DU 110mm;
3. Laying the electrical cable VVG 4x1.5 10 p.m. into HDPE pipe or el. corrugation;
4. Preparation of a pit for AS Topas, followed by sanding;
5. Drilling a hole in a septic tank for a sewer pipe, soldering a sewer pipe DN 110 mm with a septic tank;
6. Connecting an electric cable in the junction box of the septic tank;
7. Installation of compressors, commissioning. Pipe laying DN 32 mm - 2 p.m. to drain the purified ode from the septic tank;

The septic kit does not include:

1. Installation of formwork and material in case of quicksand;
2. Water and its delivery;
3. Soil removal;
4. Sand and its delivery (no further than 10 m from the installation site) 4 cubic meters;
5. The customer undertakes to provide access to the 220V electrical network on the site;

The construction of houses and baths using frame technology is becoming more and more popular. This is because the technique is such that even alone you can build, not only a bath, but even a decent-sized house. Despite the fact that the structure is warm (with sufficient insulation), it is also light and inexpensive. Perhaps its only drawback is its high fire hazard, but this is the trouble of any wooden structure, and not just a frame.

Do-it-yourself frame bath projects

Often, construction is stalled due to the fact that you do not know how to properly plan the bath so that it is convenient and safe. Ready-made planning projects can help with this. Ideally, if one of them suits you completely: no need to rack your brains. Although you can make adjustments if necessary. And sometimes just an idea is enough for everything to “fall into place” and a plan for your frame bath, which you will build with your own hands, emerges. To do this, we selected several projects of frame baths of different sizes with different arrangements of rooms.

Bath layout 4 * 5 m

This is a bathhouse with an extensive relaxation room, a small bathroom and a steam room of 4.8m2. Foundation - tape shallow - depth 70 cm, plinth 40 cm high (total height of the foundation with the plinth 110 cm), gravel cushion 20 cm. There is a small porch that can be sheathed and turned into a vestibule for year-round use. Then cold air will not get into the premises every time the doors are opened.

Ready-made drawing of a frame bath 4 * 5 m

Total area 20 m2, rooms and their dimensions:

• Lounge 8.5 m2;
• Steam room on 4.8 m2;
• Bathroom 2.2 m2

Required materials to create a frame:

• racks, lower and upper trims are made of board 100 * 50 mm;
• floor beams - from a board 150 * 50 mm in increments of 0.58 m;
• truss system - from a board 150 * 50 mm with a step of 0.58 m.

In this bath project, there is a fairly spacious rest room, and with such small dimensions of the building - 5 by 4 meters, a rather spacious steam room - “in a pure” size of 4.8 squares. According to the project, the stove is heated from the steam room, which is problematic for such a small room: there will not be very much oxygen anyway. In this option, you can, leaving it in the same place, put a sauna stove with an elongated firebox. In this case, firewood will be laid from the rest room, and the heater and the main “stove body” will be in the steam room. With this arrangement of the furnace, the problem of heating the rest room is solved at the same time.

Read more about choosing a wood burning stove here.

Project frame bath 6 * 6 m

The photo shows the layout of a fairly solid-sized bath 6 by 6 meters. There is a small veranda, dressing room, a full set of necessary premises.

This option is good in that standard length lumber can be used in almost any room: 6 or 3 meters. This is convenient as there is little waste left. The foundation can be piled, columnar. A shallow tape or slab will do.

But there are some remarks on the layout. The washing room for this frame bath project is spacious. This is an option for those who prefer to relax after the steam room not in a cool (relative to the steam room, of course) rest room, but continue to relax in the humid and warm atmosphere of the washing room. Then it maintains a temperature of about 30-35 ° C and a fairly high humidity (due to the increased power of the stove and the open door to the steam room). They also install sunbeds that look like shelves in a steam room. Then a big wash is justified.

You need a large washing room if you plan to install a font in it. If there is only a shower and a few small benches, then you can either fence off the locker room or increase the size of the steam room.

Bath plan after changes - with a dedicated vestibule

The second remark concerns the entry. If they plan to come to the bathhouse in winter, it should have a fenced-off entrance - not directly to the rest room. And this option is easy to implement. It is only necessary to swap the window and doors and put a partition.

Read about where and how best to place the windows in the bath.

The total area is 36 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• veranda 4.5 m2;
• rest room 13.5 m2;
• sink 9 m2;
• steam room 9 m2.

Frame bath 6 * 3 m with a terrace

This option was developed by the Karkas construction company. The bath itself is small - 6 by 3 meters. But an extensive terrace is attached to the front part, a little smaller than a bath: 2 by 6 meters. The rooms in this bath project are quite small, no more than three people can fit in the steam room while sitting, and if one is lying, then only two. Moreover, the “lying” shelves can only be located opposite the door and its size will be small - a tall person can no longer lie down (2 meters, minus the thickness of the skin on both sides of at least 15 cm, the total length of the shelf will be 1.7 m).

In this version of the layout of the bath, the stove can only be placed in the corner at the entrance to the steam room. It will be heated from the rest room, but you will need to choose some kind of high and narrow model - there is very little space for its installation. You can try to enter the Compact, Osa, Shilka and Biryusa furnaces from Termofor, there are also small Varvara furnaces - the Palenitsa and Mini models, if you need a reliable inexpensive furnace for a brick screen, you can try to enter " Heat Baby". There are other small ovens and quite a few. You need to decide on the maximum dimensions that will “fit” into the allocated space or move the door a little. In general, in a good way, it would be nice to move the wall at least half a meter. By increasing the size of the functional rooms, because in the summer, most likely, the rest room will smoothly move to the veranda.

And one more nuance: if you plan to use the bath in the winter, then you need a vestibule or dressing room. In this option, you can move the entrance to the veranda and fence off part of the area by making the entrance to the room through the vestibule.

The project of a frame bath with a terrace. The good thing is that it is easy to implement with your own hands

The total area is 18 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• rest room 11.07 m2;
• sink 1.61 m2;
• steam room 3.48 m2;
• terrace 11.21 m2.

Materials of key nodes:

Sauna 4*4 m with a terrace

The bath itself has dimensions of 4 by 4 meters. A terrace 4 * 1.5 meters is attached to it. This layout of the bath is different in that the steam room and the washing room are the same size. Two, maximum three people will feel comfortable in the steam room at the same time. If a dry-air sauna is planned, this layout is suitable without question.

For a Russian steam room, the option is not the best: at least one person is lying here, and for comfortable soaring in a Russian bath, the shelves should be at least 2.1 * 0.7 m (and preferably 2.2 * 0.8 m). In the washing room, if you are not going to put sunbeds there to relax after the steam room, they usually just wash themselves. It is better to reduce its size a little by expanding the steam room. Then at least one full-fledged shelf can be entered. Although the stove will still be boring, it will be small: firstly, the volume of the steam room is small, and secondly, there is not much space.

The dimensions of the premises in the basic design of the bath are as follows:

• total area 16 m2;
• rest room 8 m2;
• sink 4 m2;
• steam room 4 m2;
• terrace 6 m2.

Materials of key nodes:

• piping of a bath from a bar 100 * 150 mm;
• floor logs 150 * 100 mm in increments of 90 cm;
• ceiling ceiling - 150 * 40 mm in 60-70 cm;
• rafter legs edged board 100 * 50 mm;
• roofing material - metal tiles, corrugated board, ondulin.

Frame bath 5.4 * 6.3 m

In this frame bath project, the steam room has an area of ​​​​5 square meters. Also attached is a terrace measuring 2 * 5.4 meters.

The total area is 22.2 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• rest room 11.3 m2;
• sink 5.9 m2;
• steam room 5 m2;
• terrace 10.8 m2.

Read about the layout of baths and the choice of room sizes, the location of shelves in the article “Optimal bath: what is it?”

Advantages of frame buildings

The frame building is a skeleton made of timber, sheathed on both sides with finishing materials. A vapor barrier and insulation are laid between them. It immediately becomes clear that, if necessary, construction can be low-budget. After all, it is possible to use inexpensive heat-insulating materials (straw, sawdust, etc.) which, despite their availability, retain heat well.

It is clear that the weight of the walls with this technology is very small. And this leads to the fact that the foundation can be made lightweight. During the construction of baths, pile or pile-grillage, tape are most often made. But a monolithic slab or block foundation is also suitable.

Lightweight foundation - lower costs for materials and construction, because the foundation sometimes "pulls" half the cost of the entire construction. And in this case, the costs will be relatively small.

Building a frame house does not require sophisticated equipment. All you need is a saw, a hammer, nails, screws, a screwdriver, a plumb line and a level to check the verticality of the walls. If there is another technique - use it to your health, but this is the minimum that can be dispensed with.

An important plus is that you can work alone, only occasionally inviting assistants for some operations. A vivid example is presented in the video: the woman herself, with her obviously non-athletic hands, has almost completed the construction of a small two-story house using frame technology.

disadvantages

We have already written about the increased fire hazard of frame buildings. And this is the main drawback of houses built using this technology. Therefore, it is desirable to treat all materials with flame retardants (means that reduce the combustibility of materials).

The combustibility of the walls leads to the fact that all electrical wiring must be laid in metal boxes or special non-combustible corrugated sleeves. For this reason, electrical work becomes more difficult and more expensive - the cost of casings and corrugated hoses is added.

The frame bath has additional disadvantages: high humidity makes its own adjustments. You will have to pay increased attention to the vapor barrier of the walls. When using mineral wool, it will be necessary to protect the insulation from moisture very carefully: when wet, it loses its properties. Moreover, when dried, it restores them only partially. If it freezes wet, it just crumbles. Therefore, we choose high-quality and reliable vapor barrier (not “hydro”, namely “steam”). When laying, we follow the technology down to the smallest detail (overlapping, gluing joints and attachment points, etc.).

Necessary materials

The basis of a frame house is a frame assembled from a wooden beam. Depending on the planned dimensions of the bath, a beam of 100 * 150 or 150 * 150 mm is used for their assembly. For jibs and crossbars that are nailed between vertical posts, thinner bars are suitable.

When constructing a roof for a Mauerlat, you will need approximately the same timber - 150 * 150 mm or so. For rafter legs, all the same bars are 100 * 150 or 150 * 150 mm. Depends on the configuration of the selected roof and the weight of the roofing material. By the way, it is undesirable to use very heavy roofing material - such as ceramic tiles - for carcasses - the load on the walls is too great.

You will also need slats to create battens, counter battens, and all sorts of auxiliary work. Moreover, they will need a lot: the crate is needed both on the walls on both sides and on the roof. Although, in some cases, the shields are sheathed with plywood on the outside (as in the video above). There are a lot of construction options, as well as the materials used.

Read about how to make a gable roof truss system with your own hands here.

You will also need subfloor material. What it will be - unedged or edged board, plywood or other board material - you decide. But all wood will need to be processed. And flame retardants - to reduce flammability, and protective antibacterial compounds. Read about how to process wood inside the bath here.

Frame sheathing materials inside and out are selected based on personal preferences or the purpose of the structure. If we talk about frame baths, then usually inside everything is sheathed with clapboard (tiles are laid in the washing room), and outside with an imitation of timber or a blockhouse.

It is advisable to use mineral wool as a heater for a bath: they do not burn. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the region. For central Russia, basalt wool is mainly used for baths, with a layer of 15-25 cm. If you are concerned about the possibility of formaldehyde emission (a lot has been written about this), then you can take non-woven mats. In them, the emission of harmful substances is minimal.

More often they insulate frame bvni with mineral wool

• it cannot be used in the steam room - temperature regimes do not allow;
• it melts and supports combustion;
• this insulation costs a lot (we are talking about extruded polystyrene foam).

You will also need a lot of nails and screws. For the construction of a bath, it is advisable to use galvanized ones: so that they do not rust and do not leave ugly streaks on the wood. They will be needed in different sizes and diameters - large for frame assembly, smaller for battens and sheathing.

About what fasteners to use in the construction of a bath, read the article "Fastening for baths and saunas"

From all of the above, we hope you have concluded that you can build a frame bath with your own hands. To be sure of this, watch the video. A house was built using frame technology with the participation of only one person. It describes in more detail the construction technology of some nodes.

If you have chosen a frame bath project, decided to build it yourself, but have no idea how to proceed, we recommend watching the video. In it, an experienced American carpenter Larry Hohn tells and shows the technology of erecting the walls of a frame house. The video is very detailed, and takes more than an hour, but by the end of the video, the technology of frame construction will be clear to you.

How to make drawings of a frame bath with your own hands

Finding such a person in our country who has never been in a bath is quite difficult. Many people know what it's like to sit and relax in good company after a steam room with a cup of fragrant herbal tea. Therefore, very often near the house on the site you can see a small, but cozy bathhouse.

It is made of wood (beam or log), brick, stone or made using frame technology. The latter will be discussed in this article.

Project

Most often, a bath is planned as a separate building, erecting it from rounded logs, ordinary or glued beams. But, frame construction has recently become more and more often “stepping on their heels”.

Quite a lot of companies are ready to offer their customers standard or individual drawings of a frame bath. Although the cost of the latter will be more expensive, you will receive an exclusive option that will not be repeated anywhere else.

What are the benefits of frame technology:

• a significant reduction in the time for the construction of the building;
• cost savings, since the price of the structure is much lower than the construction of, for example, a traditional log house.

You should also not forget that such a bath can be built with your own hands, almost without involving assistants. But at the beginning of the process, you still cannot do without a project on paper, which will allow you not to make unnecessary purchases and movements.

Creating drawings requires certain knowledge, so if you doubt your abilities, it would be better to seek help from specialists. For those who are sure, below is an instruction on how to correctly compose them.

Training

Before you start drawing up a drawing of a frame bath, you should decide on some points.

It is not enough that you decide to make a bath using frame technology, you will need to calculate the following details:

1. The location of the structure on the site. Especially it is necessary to take into account sewerage drains and water disposal. Very often, the laying of these communications becomes a decisive factor.

1. Soil at the construction site. This component is important, since for the bath it is necessary to build a foundation, which directly depends on the soil on the site.
   By design, it can be:
   • tape (made of reinforced concrete or concrete);
   • piled from stone, concrete;
   • columnar - made of brick, concrete or stone;
   • made of separately lying blocks, the grooves between which are filled with cement mortar or clay.

Tip: if you planned to install a pool in the bath, groundwater should not be close to the surface of the site.

1. Building plan and number of floors. If you decide to build a two-story frame bath, you should take into account the additional load on the frame and base, which is quite difficult for a beginner. Also at this stage, it is necessary to think in advance about the location of the furnace and what it will be made of in order to understand where and what kind of chimney to install, as well as ventilation ducts in the premises.

1. Supply of communications.
   This stage includes:
   • electrical preparation, in particular the laying of electrical wiring;
   • type of ventilation;
   • thermal insulation;
   • vapor barrier;
   • drainage features.
2. Roof. An important element of any building, since the durability of the structure directly depends on it. It will be important to know: what material should be used for its manufacture, and what shape you want to see it in order to calculate the power of the floors.

Design and its features

As soon as you deal with the above points, you can begin to create a drawing of the future bath, entering all the information received into it, as well as supplementing the project with the necessary details. Be guided by this rule - the more detailed the drawing, the easier it will be to build the desired building.

Try to prepare several sketches in order to have a certain choice. For example, it will be necessary to draw not only the general plan of the frame bath, but also floor drawings, where calculations and details should be indicated.

Separate plans should also be drawn up for communications. Thus, you will not get confused during the laying of highways. At the same time, do not forget that you should not complicate the project if you do not have enough knowledge. The best option is to use a ready-made option, only slightly adjusting it to suit your preferences.

Tip: use already built projects that have proven their reliability to draw up.

Plan of a frame bath with a terrace

The drawing shows a bathhouse for a suburban area with a terrace measuring 1.5 × 4 m, the total size of the structure is 4 × 6 m. This project is well suited for organizing summer gatherings in an open free area.

The plan of the frame bath suggests that the steam room consists of three rooms:

• steam rooms;
• washing or shower bath;
• rest rooms.

The vestibule is shown separately on the plan. There is no room for a dressing room, but there is a small place for changing clothes in the washing block. Outerwear is removed and stored in a special closet installed in the rest room of the bath. Actually the terrace merges with the living room, being its summer variety.

Output

Frame technology began to be used in full force by settlers in America. Due to the speed and ease of construction, it quickly gained popularity. Today, not only houses are being built in this way, but also outbuildings, including baths.

Frame technology will allow you to have a full-fledged structure, even if you have a small budget. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Frame bath 3 by 5: photo by construction stages

A detailed photo report of the construction of a frame bath 3 by 5 meters.

The steam room itself is 3m x 3m, the dressing room is 2m x 3m. The terrace goes to the pool with a diameter of 3m (also framed).

Ready base for the foundation.

A swimming pool has been installed and the construction of a frame for a canopy has begun.

Do-it-yourself frame bath: step by step instructions

At present, it is difficult to imagine a summer cottage without a bathhouse on it. Taking a steam bath in a warm bathhouse is a real Russian tradition, rooted in the mists of time. A bathhouse can be built not only in the country, but also in the city: the presence of a plot is a great opportunity to implement this initiative. Moreover, the frame bath is a modern high-tech design that does not require large expenditures.

You can build a frame bath with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialist craftsmen. It is this type of construction that is the fastest and most affordable: a frame bath requires several times less materials than similar-sized structures made of timber or logs.

Where to start building a frame bath?

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the bath. It can be an extension to the house, or it can be separate from it. Before proceeding with laying the foundation for a future bath, it is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site and plan the building itself: the number of floors and rooms, dimensions, interior.

Before the construction of the bath, a plan must be drawn up, where it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the structure, assess the volume and duration of work. The plan should indicate all elements of the ventilation system, the chimney, roof features and other important aspects. You can also attach a veranda, terrace to the bath.

In order for the bath to be comfortable and able to accommodate several people at the same time, its dimensions must be appropriate. The best option for a steam room is 240x200x220 centimeters.

At the discretion of builders or customers, a billiard room, a relaxation room or an additional steam room can be equipped in the bathhouse.

The plan of the future bath should be drawn up as accurately as possible and taking into account the smallest details - so the construction process itself will be much easier. The bath project can be ordered from specialists. They will do everything competently and clearly, which will help to avoid major mistakes during construction.

Also, when planning a bath, a table is drawn up of accounting for all the materials necessary for the construction, which is correlated with the plan.

Materials required for the construction of a frame bath:

• cement for pouring the foundation;
• sand;
• bars for mounting the frame and ceiling;
• beams;
• insulation material in a roll (mineral wool, ready-made mats, polyethylene, roofing material, glassine);
• waterproofing film for walls and ceilings;
• lining for interior wall cladding;
• roofing material for the roof.

What foundation to choose for the construction of a frame bath?

Since the frame bath itself is very light, a strip foundation will be enough for its construction, which is poured directly under the walls around the entire perimeter of the structure. A common option is a columnar foundation, however, stable soil is required for its installation, otherwise the structure may collapse.

Due to the lightness of the frame bath, the foundation for it is poured according to a fairly simplified scheme.

When the main points are determined, you can proceed to the construction itself.

1. Foundation pouring.

Step one. The perimeter of the future bath is determined in advance, along its edges special pegs are driven into the ground, within which it is necessary to dig a moat 60 centimeters deep and 40 centimeters wide.

Step two. The ditch is filled with sand one third of the depth. From above, the sand is filled with water and carefully compacted.

Step three. After compacting the first layer, finely chopped red brick or gravel is poured over it.

Step four. A layer of broken brick or gravel is covered with a layer of sand, which should be level with the ground.

Step five. The formwork is assembled from the reinforcement. The entire structure is poured with concrete, and on top it is insulated with a thin layer of roofing material.

Important! Before the construction of the frame bath, at least a week must pass so that the foundation has the opportunity to properly settle.

1. Building walls.

Step one. Lumber prepared for a frame bath must be thoroughly dried before starting work. It is not recommended to use birch wood for construction, as it quickly rots. The best option would be linden, aspen or larch. The wood of these species is able to retain its shape for a long time and has thermal insulation properties, which is very important for a bath.

Step two. After all construction work is completed, the inside of the board should be coated with an antiseptic solution, and the outside with furniture varnish, and in two layers. This procedure must be done around the entire perimeter of the room, avoiding only the steam room and the washing room.

Step three. The lower harness from a reliable beam with a section of 10x10 centimeters must be firmly fixed enough, after which the bars should be properly fastened at the corners with nails. It is recommended to place racks on metal pins so that during the construction of walls they cannot change their location and knock down the structure.

Step four. Corner posts must be embedded in concrete.

Tip: Pillars - the basis of the walls of the future bath - should be placed directly under the bearing walls, corners, stoves - that is, in those places where the load is greatest.

Step five. Along the perimeter of the walls, racks of an intermediate nature are mounted, made of the same timber as the main structure.

Step six. To make the floor waterproof, it should be laid out with a beam of any wood, with a section of 15x15 centimeters.

Step seven. For sheathing the bath from the outside and from the inside, lining is used, which is affordable and easy to use. So that there are no gaps between the lining sheets located in a horizontal position, they should be overlapped. This procedure is very scrupulous in nature, but it can protect the walls from excess moisture.

1. We proceed to the construction of the roof.

Step one. It is necessary to take 8 special ceiling beams cut at an angle of rafters. To begin with, only the extreme rafters should be set, and only after that a couple more pieces should be fixed in the center of the future roof. The rest of the rafters are attached to the main structure, first on one side of the roof, then on the other (through the ridge).

Step two. After the rafters, vertical racks are installed, if necessary, access to the attic is also made.

Step three. On the rafters located from the edges, beams are cut out, to which the frontal boards are nailed, after which the crates are attached from above.

1. Walls need to be insulated.

The most common material for this purpose is a roll insulation with a thickness of about 50 millimeters. In some cases, mineral wool or ready-made mats are used. The insulation is laid between vertical wooden posts, after which the slats are nailed to them. For thermal insulation of the room, it is recommended to use polyethylene or glassine.

Tip: it is not recommended to use roofing material for wall insulation, as under the influence of high temperatures it begins to exude an unpleasant odor.

For floor insulation, it is better to choose expanded clay or other types of backfill, and for the ceiling - foam. If the insulation is chosen correctly, heat will be lost several times less. Thanks to this, the cost of heating the bath will also be reduced.

After the walls and roof are built, it will be possible to proceed with the installation of windows and doors in the openings left in advance for them. Upon completion of these works, it will be possible to go to the finish line.

The final stage of the construction of the frame bath

In order for the bath to be pleasant to use, it must not only be comfortable and well-designed, but also have beautiful interior decoration. Therefore, after the completion of the main work inside the bath, finishing work should be carried out.

First you need to protect the walls and ceiling from the adverse effects of moisture and high temperatures. For this purpose, coniferous upholstery is perfect. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of the most important part of any bath - the stove. It must be installed in accordance with all safety requirements. The wall separating the steam room and the rest room is recommended to be made of brick - this way it will let in less heat.

To make the walls look more attractive, it is recommended to sheathe them with clapboard. Linden wood is best suited for this purpose.

What are the main pros and cons of a frame bath?

1. Acceptable price. The construction of a frame bath is several times cheaper than analogues.
2. Ease of erection. You can build a frame bath with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists.
3. Light weight. The frame bath box is light enough, its weight is acceptable for areas with soft ground.
4. Short construction time. Building a frame bath is not only easy, but also fast: to take a steam bath in it, you don’t even have to wait for the next summer.

1. Difficulty in care. Insulation materials can become unusable under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, and replacing them will be quite problematic.
2. Unsuitable for therapeutic purposes. Due to the fact that the walls of the frame bath do not emit useful substances, bath procedures in it cannot help with health problems. If there are any, it is recommended to build a different type of bath.

Despite the fact that the advantages of the frame structure are much greater than the disadvantages, one should come to the decision to build a bath of one type or another, focusing only on one's own taste and based on one's capabilities - both material and physical. The condition of the soil and the location of the future bath are also important.

There is nothing difficult and impossible in the construction of a frame bath. The instructions given in this article will help everyone build the bath of their dreams in a short time, without spending a lot of money.

Important clarification! The project was not made for publication, this page was created only so that records and calculations are always at hand.
I looked at the statistics of the site, they visit the page, and what was a surprise for me, they download ...
This is why I have to warn you.
I am not a builder, I did calculations on the bearing capacity of rafters and ceilings according to available information on the Internet. So, if suddenly you decide to build on this project, then it is at your own peril and risk.
It is better to turn to a small construction company, they will build it quickly and inexpensively, From the recommendations - eu-spb.rf.
Well, in principle, the bath box, (at the moment temporary huts), stands, overwintered normally. In the course of work, minor changes were made to the project, because I didn’t plan to keep any reports, but I finished the construction last year, I only remember replacing the window with a larger one, and using other steam and windproof films.
The estimate, of course, increased, but not significantly.

Furnace - "Malyutka" Steam with the closed Kamenka of plant "Feringer". Steam room with a volume of 10.7 cubic meters.
Washing department with an area of ​​6.75 sq.m. Two thirds of which are allocated for "wet" procedures.
At first, it will be used as a makeshift. Therefore, the construction will be in two stages.
1. Frame with insulation and exterior finish. Possibly the wall between the steam room and the washing room. Shower can be done immediately, all interior decoration - hardboard.
"Steam room" - a bedroom, you can put a simple stove, for example, such
If you do not do a shower, then you can organize a pantry there. On the floor of the entire room, lay linoleum.
2. After the construction of the house, internal partitions are installed, the steam room is finished with an imitation of timber, the washing department with clapboard and plastic panels. On the floor - porcelain stoneware, in the vestibule - lining and linoleum.
Water supply is planned to be autonomous, i.e. in the attic, there will be tanks for cold water and heated showers. They will be recruited with a hose from the pump in the well.

The first stage is a makeshift

The second stage - bath

Column Foundation

We mark and dig holes 0.6 by 0.6 and a depth of about 0.4 m (maybe 0.5 each). We level the site with a slight slope towards the ditch
We lay the geotextiles in the holes, fill it with PGS-ohm, spill it with a rammer. Let's get to the level.
Laying drainage. The pipe can only be laid around the perimeter, the middle can be made with old skirting boards (do not throw it away)
We assemble the formwork from chipboard, which is in the barn, if not enough, I dismantle the shelves. In the first formwork, we cut out the boxes from the roofing material. First, we make the lower platform by cementing reinforcement in it. Not earlier than two days later, we make the formwork for the upper part, and fill the rest according to the level. At least in the corner posts, remove the pins to fix the lower trim.
We cover it with a film between the pedestals, sprinkle it with sand or PGS-ohm.
We are waiting for at least two weeks.

General form

Dimensions

fittings

Knitting scheme. For one cabinet - 6 pcs. 300 mm. and 3 pcs. 200 mm.

Drainage and drain

Approximate location

materials

Bottom trim

Treat the boards for the lower strapping with an antiseptic, and leave to dry for a week. Antiseptic, you can try to do it yourself.
Then we assemble the strapping, starting with the outer contour. The inner part with the central beam is assembled as follows:

• We cut out two boards of 1340 each and nail them on one (lower in the diagram) side.
• To them at the end, we nail the board 5840, then we nail the second 5840 to this board
• And only after that, we fix the remaining 1340

All boards, we saw down in place. We lay the remains of roofing material under the lining.
After, we stretch the strapping with capercaillie, with an interval of approximately 300 mm.

ADDITIONS

We nail a mesh from mice to the strapping and to hold the floor insulation. To make it more convenient to work later, you will have to lay the floor on the "platform", at least temporarily.

General form

Bottom trim drawing

Bottom trim materials

Platform

These boards are also treated with an antiseptic.
The links on which the beams will be supported are marked in blue.

ADDITIONS

I don’t do nonsense, I don’t do blue inserts. I will immediately put solid wall racks (do not forget to count)

General view of the platform

Platform drawing

saw cut

Walls

Under the window, the frame is still as in the diagram, since the window will probably be wider, you will have to push the racks apart, put the upper crossbar and support posts under the frame, cutting the lower crossbar into them.

ADDITIONS

Racks (2 pcs.) of the walls of the shower and the steam room (to support the ridge beam) will have a length of 3080 mm. (not 3000 mm as in the diagram) and rely on the bottom trim. Although the size may go away, therefore, it is better to first put the ridge beam, and then adjust the racks in height.
And in the rack of the steam room wall, you will have to cut a groove under the log
Don't forget to redraw

First wall

General view of the western wall

East wall dimensions

General view of the wall

Side wall dimensions

General view of the walls

Shower wall size

General form

Crate for cross insulation

General view (without shower wall)

Cutting on four walls

truss system

The length of the rafters under the visor above the front door will most likely have to be adjusted if the roof is made of metal tiles, and not corrugated board. (Length of lumber, allows to increase by 300 mm.)
As an option, do not touch the rafters of the visor, but lengthen the short storpils (7 pcs), by about 3 cm, or this distance, take out the first board of the crate (but then there are problems with installing the cornice strip)
In short, you need to look at the place, everything will depend on the step of the wave.

Overhangs (or rather, their strength elements) from the ends in the drawing are rounded to 1 m. In practice, they will be shorter. With a useful width of the roofing sheet 1100 mm. They will protrude (with a cornice strip) by 300 mm.
Before making these elements, it will be necessary to decompose and measure the roofing material

Rafter dimensions

rafter sawing

General form

General form

inserts

Roof

All dimensions (also the cross section of the boards) will need to be recalculated after purchasing the roofing material

The professional flooring is simpler and faster, the metal tile is more efficient and more beautiful. Under the metal tile, it may be necessary to increase the height of the frontal boards (those that are 100, set 150) and use not a 50x50 beam, but something bigger.

Lathing and counter lathing

Lathing sawing

General form

Front boards and extensions

Sawing

General form

№	Name	Qty
1	Edged board 25x150x6000 mm e / h.hv / p. (1-3 business grade)	7 pcs.
2		27 pcs.
3	Beam 50x50x6000 mm (or one board 100x50)	2 pcs.
4	Nails 90 mm.	30 pcs.
5	Nails 80 mm.	330 pcs.
6	Nails 60 mm.	350 pcs.
7	Hydro-vapor barrier Isostrong D (70 sq.m.)	1 PC.
8	White titanium MA-15	2 pcs.
9	Round brush 40 mm	1 PC.
10	Metal tile 1.18x2.25 m RAL 3009	12 pcs.
11	Metal tile 1.18x1.15 m RAL 3009	2 pcs.
12	Roofing screws with drill	250 pcs.

Siding

On the membrane, under the crate, to calm the conscience (so that the insulation does not stick out), you can attach a plastic tape for greenhouses, in increments of 60 cm.

Under the visor it will be necessary to put cuts, size and location, I will look at the place. I will most likely make them from two boards, 100x40 and 100x25

Siding equipment can change, so at the door, you can put a j-profile, and make a window with a finishing strip. The number of panels is calculated on the size of 3660x230

On cross-insulation, it is necessary to put a heater before installing the siding

Lathing and counter lathing

Lathing sawing

Lathing and counter lathing

Final result

№	Name	Qty
1	Edged board 25x100x6000 mm e / h.hv / p. (1-3 grade business)	7 pcs.
2	Windproof Isostrong A	1 PC.
3	Nails 60 mm.	400 pcs.
4	Tape for greenhouses (50 m.)	2 pcs.
5	Vinyl-On siding 3660x230 mm, vanilla	60 pcs.
6	Vinyl-On siding starter profile (starter bar)	4 things.
7	Siding Vinyl-On J-profile	2 pcs.
8	Vinyl-On siding H-profile connecting	1 PC.
9	Vinyl-On siding outer corner	4 things.
10	Vinyl-On siding window profile	3 pcs.
10	Self-tapping screws "bugs" 16x4.2 mm	400 pcs.
11		2 pcs.

Floor

If the weather is rainy, it is better to let the whole structure stand for a month before continuing work.

Well, then, we lay a wind protection, or just a spunbox, we put the insulation in a run. The film is only so that the insulation does not blow out.

We nail the board with the expectation of OSB joints

Floor

General form

OSB

General form

Insulation, installation of partitions

First of all, we put insulation in those places where there will be inserts for attaching internal walls. Insert crepe, and mount the remaining insulation.

Well, only after that, we insulate the ceiling, para-isolate it, and sheathe it with hardboard. From above, we close the insulation with a windshield.

Insulation calculation

Wall insulation area: 40.2 m2 Ceiling: 16.79 m2 (18 total)
Walls 2 layers of 50 mm. Ceiling - 3 to 50. A pack of insulation - 5.76 sq.m
Total: Walls - 80.4 m2 (14 packs). Ceiling - 50.37m2 (9 packs)

This should be enough, and 1.74 m2 should remain from the cross-insulation.

Partitions

Wall at the stove

Soul wall

Layout of fiberboard

№	Name	Qty
1	Edged board 25x100x6000 mm e / h.hv / p. (1-3 grade business)	16 pcs.
2	Windproof Isostrong A	1 PC.
3	Insulation ROCKWOOL Light Butts SCANDIC, 800x600x50 mm (5.76 sq.m)	23 pcs.
4	Nails 60 mm	300 pcs.
5	Greenhouse film (sleeve-1.5 m) 200 mk	26 p.m.
6	Profile guide 50x40 3 m	2 pcs.
7	Guide profile 100x40 3 m	2 pcs.
8	Rack profile 50x50 3 m	3 pcs.
9	Rack profile 100x50 3 m	3 pcs.
10	Board 40x100 (3 or 6 m.)	1 PC.
11	Bolts plumbing 6x70	2 pcs.
12	Washers M6	2 pcs.
13	Self-tapping bugs	70 pcs.
14	Nails 80 mm.	50 pcs.
15	Nails 50 mm.	600 pcs.
16	nails 16 mm.	700 pcs.
17	Fiberboard 2745x1220x3.2 mm	16 pcs.

estimate

Project Description

Characteristics

Building type:

Frame bath

Ground floor height:

280 cm

Wood:

Pine

Humidity:

Atmospheric drying

• wall kit
Ground floor Attic
• Foundation waterproofing
• low tide
• Gutter system
• Warming
• Interfloor ceilings
• Interior partitions
Interfloor staircase
• Exterior finish
• Interior decoration
• Draft floors
• Finished floors
• Entrance doors
• Window
• Interior doors
• Fire bioprotection
• Communications
• Delivery of materials
Brigade Accommodation
• Garbage removal
• Warranty
B-B-Q
• Porch
Balcony Veranda Terrace Gazebo Swimming pool Second light Bay window Bathroom Boiler room

Characteristics

Foundation: Aerated concrete blocks are placed along the inner contour of the bath, according to the level - 8 pcs.
Reinforced frame: Twenty bearing racks made of a metal frame (metal corner 63mm), from a bar with a section (100x50mm).
Exterior finishing: Fitting with pore insulation along the wall lathing, wall cladding with clapboard (pine grade A). Installation of windows according to the project, installation of doors according to the project. Wooden corners are mounted on the corners to give an aesthetic appearance to the bath.
Internal partitions: Internal partitions are mounted from three bearing racks from a bar 100x50mm. Covered with vapor barrier.
Interior finishing: Laying insulation (mineral plate 100mm), pore insulation. In the steam room, the walls and ceiling are additionally covered with a foil film with a reflective effect. Sheathing of all walls and ceiling in the washing room and rest room - lining (pine grade A). Sheathing of all walls and ceiling in a steam lining (Linden grade A).
Floor: Floor insulation in the rest room - 100mm mineral slab - covered with vapor-waterproofing. Installation of finishing floors (36mm tongue and groove board) in the washing room - with a negative degree of rolling for draining water into the holes.
Shelves: In the steam room - a stepped canopy is mounted from a polished canopy board 25mm LIPA (grade A). The width of the upper canopy is 60 cm, the lower shelf is at a distance of 45 cm from the floor. The distance between the shelves is 55 cm.
Interior doors: In the steam room and washing room, wooden doors (linden grade A) are installed, dimensions - 180x70mm.
Electric wires: VVG 2x2.5mm, run into the corrugation channel, and fit inside the walls. Conclusion of points in the rest room, washing room, steam room. The output of the power socket is mounted on the lateral outer side of the bath.
Electrical equipment: Diode lamps in the rest room and washing room - 2 pcs. Glass lamp, with a ceramic base in the steam room - 1 pc. Triple switch (for each room) - 1 pc. Safety circuit breaker - rated current: 16 A. Double socket for 220V - 1 pc.
Ventilation: A wooden, ventilating, pivoting window, 30x30mm in size, is installed in the steam room.
Furnace: The furnace is included in any complete set of baths. Furnace - Teplodar RUSSIA 12-18L. Mounted to a partition wall. The walls are finished with fire-retardant material, and sewn up with a zinc screen. Firewood supply from washing, or rest rooms.
Tank: A 60l tank is installed on the stove.
Chimney: To remove smoke through the roof, a transition damper and a sandwich pipe are installed on the tank. All cracks and gaps are closed with additional parts of the chimney system.
Roofing: Decking zinc MP-20, 05mm. Skate 200mm.
Mounting loops: The EKODOM LLC company has been honing its skills in the construction of baths for many years. And in order for the bath to have a very beautiful aesthetic appearance. We have removed the mounting loops from the sauna modification. To transport the sauna, we use long towel ropes.
Delivery and installation: Delivery and installation in the city of Nizhnevartovsk, and 15 km from the city is free of charge. From above 15 km from the city of Nizhnevartovsk - 100 rubles / one kilometer.

The most important question that comes to mind when you want to build a bath with your own hands on your site is the cost of materials. Will the family budget pull the project for the construction of a frame bath measuring 6 by 4 meters? Let's try to calculate the required amount of materials and their cost.

So, for any capital structure, a reliable foundation is required, and it is not worth saving on it. This project will require a strip foundation with a width of 30 cm and a total height of 1 meter. Height above ground level is at least 50 cm.

Foundation cost

For the foundation you will need:

1. Sand bedding 15 cm thick. Calculate the required amount of sand: trench width 0.3 m, foundation perimeter 6.1m * 4.1m = 20.4 m * 0.3 * 0.15 = 0.918 m3. We get about 1 m3 of sand worth 1000 R.
2. Formwork. Formwork height 45 cm - three boards. Formwork will require 24 boards 150 * 25 cm worth 4000 R.
3. Fittings. Two rows, two rods with a diameter of 12 mm. It will take 80 meters at 25.5 r per meter, we get 2040 R.
4. Concrete will need 0.3m * 1m * 20.4m = 6.12 m3. Its price depends on the distance to the object. Let's take about 4500 r per 1 m3 and get 27540 R
5. The costs for knitting wire, self-tapping screws, pipes for products will be designated within 5000 R.

The total cost of building a foundation will be approximately 39580 rubles.

To slightly reduce the cost of the foundation, concrete can be made by hand, and not bought at the factory.

The cost of materials for the construction of the frame and truss system

For a more durable construction, the bath should have a strong bottom trim, strong corner posts and an upper trim, it is better to make a beam of 150 * 150 mm. Let's take a net ceiling height of 2.2 meters. For the upper and lower strapping, 8 beams are required and two more for the corner posts. 10pcs*930r= 9300 R. Vertical racks, ceiling beams and rafters are made of boards 150 * 50 mm. The distance between the uprights is taken 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation used. Let's take for example a standard stone or mineral wool insulation measuring 60 * 100 cm. Based on the foregoing, we need 12 boards 150 * 50 mm for racks. For ceiling beams, you will need 10 boards. and rafters 10 pcs., total 20 pcs. Boards 150 * 50 must be purchased about 10 more pieces. for building scaffolding. As a result, we get the cost of a board 150 * 50: racks - 12 pcs + beams, rafters - 20 pcs + scaffolding 10 pcs = 42 pcs. *318 p = 13363 ruble.

The standard lumber length is 6 meters.

Roof device

Depending on the roofing material with which the bath is covered, the crate is equipped. It is not difficult to do it yourself. For metal tiles, it is enough to make a crate from an edged inch board. For soft shingles, a flat surface is required. To do this, plywood is laid on top of the usual crate, and then the roofing material.

The cost of a roof made of metal tiles

Lathing: pitch 150 mm edged board 150 * 25 mm 33 pcs * 159 r = 5247 R.

The working width of the metal tile is 1100 mm. For this roof, 11 sheets 3 meters long are needed. Moreover, one will have to be cut in half lengthwise. The area of ​​one sheet will be 3.54 m2. Let's take the price of 500 rubles per m2 and get 1770 rubles per sheet. Total: 11*1770 = 19470 R.

To complete the roofing of the metal tile roof, we still need 7 meters of the ridge. It is produced in two meters, so you have to buy 4 pieces. Its price is 650 r * 4 pcs. = 2600 R. The wind bar will need 12 meters * 520 r = 6240 R. Cornice strip 14 meters * 400 r = 5600 R. Two packs of self-tapping screws with a rubber washer 2 pack * 800 r = 1600 R. The result of a roof made of metal tiles without a gutter system: 40757 rubles.

For this roof, a sheet of metal tiles has a length of three meters and it will be difficult for one person to lift it onto the roof with their own hands. You will need at least one more hand.

The cost of a roof from a soft roof

Lathing: edged board 150 * 25 mm 27 pcs * 159 rubles = 4293 R. OSB plywood 9 mm thick 14 sheets * 550 r = 7700 R.

According to the rules, before laying flexible tiles, you must first lay the roofing material on plywood, and then the tiles themselves. In order to save money, we will put it only on the skate.

Lining carpet 1 roll – 2000 R. The roof area is 42 m2 * 500 r = 21000 r the cost of the tile itself. As well as for metal tiles, you need to purchase a wind bar 6240 p and cornice strip 5600 R. For a better fixation of the tiles, in places of contact with the cornice and wind slats, it must be additionally smeared with bituminous mastic ( 2500 r per can). To ventilate the inter-roof space, special aerators are installed on the roof, closer to the ridge. For this roof, you will need 4 pcs. * 850 r = 3400 R. It is best to fasten tiles to plywood with self-tapping screws ( 500 R). The result of the roofing of flexible shingles without a gutter system: 53233 ruble.

Soft roofing is not at all difficult to mount with your own hands. Each pack has a detailed diagram of laying tiles.

The cost of a metal gutter system

Metal eaves hooks are used to fasten the downpipe to the roof. They are attached to the cornice board or to the rafters before the batten is installed. On this roof they will need 20 pcs. * 200 r = 4000 R. Gutter of the drainage system 14 meters * 358 r = 5012 R. Four plugs for 250 r ( 1000 R). Two connectors for 450 rubles ( 900 R). Two outlets, two elbows, two outlets from the gutter, two wall mounts ( 4000 R). Drain pipes 1700 R. Summary of the drainage system: 16612 rubles.

floors

For sex logs, it is better to use a beam of 100 * 150 mm. It will need 8 pcs. *636= 5088 R. The subfloor will take 26 inch boards 150 mm wide. ( 4136 R). If the floors in the entire bath are wooden, then the floorboard will also need 26 pcs. *590= 15340 R. Floor insulation should be good and be 150 mm. Insulation will take 27 packs * 430 r = 11610 R. Bottom line by gender: 36174 ruble.

Cost of wall and ceiling insulation

The area of ​​the walls is 44 m2 and the ceiling is 24 m2. For the total area of ​​walls and ceiling (68 m2), we need 40 packs of insulation. The costs will be 40 * 430 p \u003d 17200 R. The area of ​​the door and windows can not be subtracted from the total area of ​​insulation. The remaining insulation will go to the insulation of partitions. To protect the insulation from moisture, it must be covered with a vapor barrier material. Two rolls will be enough for the entire volume of the bath ( 6500 R). Outcome: 23700 rubles.

Installation of insulation is very simple and it will not be difficult to lay it yourself, with your own hands.

For sewing gables, you will need an inch board in the amount of 15 pieces * 159 p \u003d 2385 R.

The cost of interior decoration

Inside the bath most often gets off with a wooden clapboard. For washing and rest rooms, lining made of pine or spruce is used, for a steam room made of linden or aspen. In order to understand how much one and the other lining will be needed, it is necessary to divide the space of the entire bath into separate rooms with partitions. We will not consider the exact costs of partitions, but take approximately 5000 R. So, we determine the size of the steam room 1.8 m * 2.2 m. For its decoration you will need: lining for walls 17.6 m2 * 860r = 15136 r., for a ceiling 4m2 * 860 r = 3440 R. Linden board shelves will cost 5000 R. The door to the steam room costs an average 5000 R. Fireproof protection of combustible materials from the furnace will cost 3000 R.

Lining for the rest of the rooms and the ceiling will need about 60 m2 * 220 r = 13200 R. Entrance wooden door 5000 p, windows in the steam room, in the rest room, in the washing room - 15000 R. All kinds of impregnations, varnishes, paints: 5000 R.

The lining is attached to the crate with the help of nails or with the help of special clamps - kleimers. With your own hands, it will not be difficult to sew up the walls and ceiling with clapboard.

A stove with a chimney will cost at least 30000 R. Plumbing, plumbing, water heater, shower, sewer, etc. more 30000 R. Electricity: 7000 R. If the floor in the washing room will be poured concrete and finished with ceramic tiles, then this is an additional cost.

Outcome for the interior: 141776 rubles.

Exterior finishing cost

Outside, the walls of the frame bath must be hammered with edged board or plywood. To do this, we need 55 boards * 159 r = 8450 R. The bath is sheathed on the outside with almost any finishing material, but most often they use siding or the same lining as for interior work. Let's calculate the approximate cost of finishing the bath with siding. The plinth or foundation is best highlighted and covered with plinth panels. One such panel 1 meter long today costs about 500 rubles. They will need 20 pieces and get 10000 p plus corners, starting strip, metal ebbs - more 5000 R. Siding will need 60 m2 and it will cost 200 r per m2 ( 12000 r), and the same number ( 12000 p) additional accessories (starting strip, outer corners, finishing strip, etc.). Soffits for filing overhangs 13 m2 * 250 r = 3250 R.

Outcome for exterior siding: 38700 rubles.

Before proceeding with the installation of siding, you need to complete the crate. It is necessary for air circulation between the wooden wall and the siding. The siding is attached to the crate using galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer. When installing siding with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the panel should not be tightly attracted to the wall with a self-tapping screw, but should walk. This is to ensure the mobility of the panel during temperature changes. A bathhouse covered with siding will be protected from the effects of precipitation and will last for many years.

Additional expenses

Additional costs include fasteners ( 30000 p), well, as in any construction project, unforeseen (not taken into account) expenses or the amount that should be “just in case” 20000 R.

Additional cost summary: 50000 rubles.

Grand total

Let's summarize the cost of materials for a frame bath measuring 6 meters by 4 meters with different roofing.

Bath covered with metal tiles: 403047 rubles.

Bath covered with shingles: 415523 ruble.

This article can become an assistant in calculating the funds necessary for the construction of a 6x4 meter frame bath with your own hands. Of course, the calculations will not be exact, but approximate, since the prices for building materials in different regions of our country are different, and each person has different wishes for interior and exterior decoration. If you order such a bath in a construction company, then at least 60% should be added to the resulting cost of materials. The amount received will be the cost of the turnkey bath.