Gluing drywall on uneven walls. What to glue drywall to the wall and ceiling: installation on aerated concrete and other surfaces

We have already encountered several times the preparation of walls for the final decorative finish. You can level the walls in different ways: plaster, carve irregularities with an angle grinder, or build even walls from drywall. This is the method chosen by most masters working with tiles. But in addition to all the advantages, this technology has one very significant drawback - when constructing a frame from profiles for drywall, valuable space is lost in the already cramped bathrooms. However, there is, in our opinion, another great way to level the walls by gluing drywall. About, how to glue drywall on a wall And how to glue drywall to wall to be reliable, we will talk in this article.

Now we are repairing our future toilet, and in addition to the fact that we:

were ;
decided;
painted the details for their closet and bathroom;
, as well as ,

now we will level the walls in our bathroom, using drywall glue for this purpose and, in fact, the drywall itself. After all, the success of the entire event in the form of the final tiling of the walls depends precisely on how close the walls are to the vertical. Smooth walls are 80 percent of success.

How to glue drywall to the wall

So, we certainly know that it is possible to glue drywall on walls, another question is how? For gluing drywall to the wall, a special dry mix from the company Knauf - Perlfix (Perlfix) is used. This composition is diluted like tile adhesive. By dosing this perlfix, the adhesion of the drywall sheet to the wall and at the same time its alignment is achieved.

In our case, we had to level a brick wall, which even in appearance could not boast of verticality. Fortunately, the other two walls, made of reinforced concrete slabs, turned out to be absolutely vertical, which served as a guide for us.

So, the necessary materials are purchased, namely:

Bucket or large bowl
Stirrer with drill since the lifetime of the mixture is about half an hour, the composition must be kneaded very actively. A drill with a stirrer will greatly facilitate this work.
Level or level for precise vertical positioning of the sheet
Trowel, spatula, spatula for applying the solution.
Board and hammer for finishing the sheet to a vertical position.
The drywall sheets themselves.
Glue for drywall in the form of a dry mix Perlfix/

After conducting research on the Internet and interviewing practitioners, we found out that there are two ways to glue drywall on a wall. The difference between these methods is only in the sequence of applying the adhesive composition. Let's try to figure it out and find a suitable way for ourselves.

Also, on the World Wide Web there is a way to glue drywall on mounting foam. The idea is as follows: plugs with self-tapping screws are installed in the wall, which are unscrewed to a predetermined distance. Holes are drilled in the sheet into which foam is allowed. Due to the expansion of the foam, the sheet lags behind the wall at an even distance, limited by self-tapping screws. This method was rejected by us because of the high cost (mounting foam turns out to be much more expensive than Perlfix), and also because it all smacks of amateur performance. If we are to conduct experiments, then at least with a predictable result, the purpose of which is to choose the optimal method, and not to invent a new technology.

How best to glue drywall on the wall.

There are two ways to glue drywall. The first method is to apply the mixture on the wall in small volumes. Then a dry sheet of drywall is glued onto the mixture. This is how we started.

I must say right away that this method leaves very conflicting feelings. On the one hand, the process of gluing a drywall sheet is a lot of fun. At first, I even like to throw a mixture of the color of childish surprise at the wall. Out of habit, however, perlfix does not always fly where it needs to, and sometimes flies back. As a result, all soiled, but cheerful, we glued the first sheet of drywall to perlfix.

Then comes the most crucial stage - the exact installation of the drywall sheet in terms of level. Sometimes everything goes well, and sometimes the amount of mixture, due to not exactly hitting the wall, does not compact and it becomes difficult to trim the sheet. A board and a hammer come to the rescue. We put a sheet of board and knock with a hammer, achieving verticality.

When setting the vertical, the mounds of the perlfix mixture spread out, filling the space between the sheet and the wall. There are also voids inside the structure - this is normal. Most of the sheet area was almost completely filled with adhesive, and the excess mixture came out.

The best way to apply drywall adhesive

In fact, it is more correct to apply drywall glue to the sheet itself, and only then apply the sheet with glue to the wall. Since we were gluing drywall on the wall for the first time, and undertook to glue a large sheet, we were simply afraid that we would not be able to squeeze a huge and heavy sheet with glue applied into a relatively small bathroom. However, you just had to follow the instructions - apply glue to drywall, and not to the wall. For the convenience of the operation, the drywall sheet can be cut.

To level the sheet of drywall, you can resort to the help of point beacons in the form of self-tapping screws partially screwed into the wall, which we first set according to the level. Thus, we automatically solve the issue of sheet leveling.

With the first method of applying drywall glue, the sheet immediately stuck to the glue applied to the wall and became inactive. I had to bring the sheet to the optimal position, applying considerable physical effort. With the second method, when the glue was applied to the sheet, it was much easier to glue and align the drywall vertically.

This is how we empirically found that it is more convenient to apply drywall adhesive to the sheet itself. Also, do not grab onto the immense sheets of maximum size - working with such sheets is possible only on large areas, with experienced and strong assistants. Therefore, having drawn conclusions from our first experience of gluing drywall to the wall, we glued all subsequent sheets using the most convenient technology - we cut the drywall to a size that was convenient for us and applied the adhesive mixture directly to it, and therefore coped with the task quickly and easily.

Think, how to glue drywall on the wall and, most importantly, how- figured it out. We can draw the only conclusion: once again we are told to "read the instructions" and "do not reinvent the wheel." Once again, these simple truths have been confirmed. And if you are going to stick drywall on the wall, then do not repeat our installation mistakes, but immediately do everything right, according to the instructions. After all, all technologies, especially those with German roots, require precision and accuracy, only in this case success and amazing results are guaranteed.

Drywall has recently become one of the most sought-after materials for repair work in apartments. Large in area, even and smooth surfaces of the sheets make it possible to eliminate the curvature of the walls in a short time, to prepare the room for subsequent finishing. In addition, if the plasterboards are attached to the frame structure, then it becomes possible to additionally insulate the ceiling.

But the creation of a frame is far from possible in all cases, since such a design significantly “steals” the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Therefore, for owners of city apartments planning repairs, information on how to attach drywall to a wall without profiles is often more useful, so that space loss in already cramped conditions is minimal.

There are several methods of similar fastening drywall. But for any of them, the wall requires some preparation.

Preparatory work

Any work begins with the preparation of a set of necessary tools and the acquisition of the necessary materials.

Materials and tools

BUT. Of the tools you will need:

Knife for cutting drywall.
Construction level, plumb line, marking cord, tape measure, long ruler or rule, pencil or marker - for preliminary marking and constant monitoring of the verticality of the surface during the installation of sheets.
Rubber and regular hammer.
Spatula or trowel
Container for mixing glue.
Screwdriver, electric drill with mixer nozzle.
Roller with long handle and soft brush.
Bevel Planer

B. Materials for work:

Drywall sheets. Depending on the room, ordinary - GKL, moisture-resistant GKLV can be used, and if the wall near the stove or fireplace is finished, then fire-resistant - GKLO will be required. The number of sheets is calculated by taking into account the area of the walls of the room, subtracting from it the areas of window and door openings, and making a margin of about 15%.

The number of sheets of drywall will help you quickly and accurately calculate the calculator below.

With the help of drywall, you can level almost any wall. For small irregularities or in a small room, it is better to fix the sheets using glue.

Drywall walls will help hide irregularities or existing communications.

Frameless installation will significantly save space and simplify the work of wall cladding. However, depending on the degree of curvature of the walls, different bonding methods are used. It may happen that in one room it is necessary to combine installation methods.

Surface preparation, necessary materials and tools

One of the advantages of a frameless installation is the absence of a preparatory stage as such. Before you need minimal processing.

Using a plumb or rule, the base is measured and found out how it is curved or deviates from the vertical. This is necessary in order to determine which of the gluing methods will be optimal.
All protruding elements must be removed from the surface: nails, screws, dowels, etc.
Clean the walls of dust and greasy stains and mark them.
Draw lines on the floor along which the finishing material will be aligned. With significant irregularities, you will need to do the same on the ceiling. This will allow you to install sheets in the same plane.
If the surfaces have poor adhesion, then they need to be treated with a primer that enhances this quality. If the walls strongly absorb moisture, then you should use a tool that reduces this property. Also, when choosing a primer, you need to consider the material of the walls.

When the walls are prepared, you can start work. For this you will need:

spatulas;
drywall;
glue or plaster putty;
container for pointing the solution;
plumb;
2 or 3 wooden bars;
pencil;
sealant;
reinforcing tape.

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What else you need to know before gluing drywall; sheet preparation

The frameless method can only be used in cases where the size of the walls does not exceed the size of the sheet. Substituting small pieces is not advisable.
GKL cannot be glued to lime plaster.
All wiring work must be completed before gluing the plasterboard.
Sheets can only be glued to a supporting base. It should not crumble or exfoliate. For more reliable fastening to the surface, you can use 4-5 dowels per plate.
Do not use drywall if it will be exposed to atmospheric influences (snow, rain, etc.).
Work can be carried out at a room temperature of +10°C.
The plates must be cured in the room in which they will be glued for 2-3 days.
It is necessary to cut the plasterboard in such a way that a small gap remains to the floor (about 10 mm). It is necessary in order to exclude drywall contact with the floor, from which the sheet can receive moisture.

The easiest way to work with GKL is if the irregularities of the base do not exceed 4 mm. The sequence of actions is as follows:

Usually wall decoration starts from the corner.
The solution is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. You should not cook a large amount at once, because. It usually has a short shelf life. Most often, Fugenfüller is used for these purposes.
A solution is applied to the sheets along the perimeter with a notched trowel. They also spend 1 or 2 bands in the center. If you plan to hang shelves and other furniture, gluing should be continuous. However, putty should not go to the joint.
Linings are installed along the wall (2-3 pieces per sheet), which will ensure that a gap of 10 mm is maintained. The support must provide ventilation, as air is needed to dry the adhesive. Drywall scraps can be used as linings.
The plate is lifted and installed on supports, then pressed against the wall. It will be more convenient to take the finishing material if it is placed on a small flooring of wooden bars (2-3 is enough).
Using a fist or a rubber mallet, the sheet is aligned vertically. The lines drawn on the floor are used as a guide.
In this order, the entire room is finished around the perimeter. Using the rule, the evenness of the GKL installation relative to each other is checked. The seams should be even and tight.
In drywall, you need to provide holes for communications, sockets and switches. Pruning is best done locally.
After 3-4 days, after the glue has dried, the supports are removed and the gaps are sealed with sealant.
When made of wood, it is permissible to use nails with wide hats. Glue here will be used rather for alignment.

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If the unevenness of the walls ranges from 5 to 20 mm

In this case, the alignment of the walls with drywall practically does not differ from the first method: the sequence of actions remains the same, only the glue and the method of its application are replaced.

For large irregularities, use "Perlfix". This glue is applied to the sheet in small piles. Their diameter is 100-150 mm, and the height should be slightly greater than the depth of the depressions (from 100 to 300 mm). These cakes are seated quite often: every 300-350 mm, first along the perimeter, and then in the central part.
The sheet is then lifted and placed on the substrates. It is also aligned vertically (for this, lines drawn on the floor and ceiling serve).
When the glue comes out at the joints, it is removed with a spatula. There should be no solution in the seam.

With the help of drywall, you can level almost any wall. For small irregularities or in a small room, it is better to fix the sheets using glue.

Drywall walls will help hide irregularities or existing communications.

Surface preparation, necessary materials and tools

One of the advantages of a frameless installation is the absence of a preparatory stage as such. Before sewing the walls with drywall, minimal processing is required.

Tools for finishing walls with drywall.

Using a plumb or rule, the base is measured and found out how it is curved or deviates from the vertical. This is necessary in order to determine which of the gluing methods will be optimal.
All protruding elements must be removed from the surface: nails, screws, dowels, etc.
Clean the walls of dust and greasy stains and mark them.
Draw lines on the floor along which the finishing material will be aligned. With significant irregularities, you will need to do the same on the ceiling. This will allow you to install sheets in the same plane.
If the surfaces have poor adhesion, then they need to be treated with a primer that enhances this quality. If the walls strongly absorb moisture, then you should use a tool that reduces this property. Also, when choosing a primer, you need to consider the material of the walls.

When the walls are prepared, you can start work. For this you will need:

spatulas;
drywall;
glue or plaster putty;
container for pointing the solution;
plumb;
2 or 3 wooden bars;
pencil;
sealant;
reinforcing tape.

What else you need to know before gluing drywall; sheet preparation

Scheme of a frameless method of finishing walls with drywall.

The frameless method can only be used in cases where the size of the walls does not exceed the size of the sheet. Substituting small pieces is not advisable.
GKL cannot be glued to lime plaster.
All wiring work must be completed before gluing the plasterboard.
Sheets can only be glued to a supporting base. It should not crumble or exfoliate. For more reliable fastening to the surface, you can use 4-5 dowels per plate.
Do not use drywall if it will be exposed to atmospheric influences (snow, rain, etc.).
Work can be carried out at a room temperature of +10°C.
The plates must be cured in the room in which they will be glued for 2-3 days.
It is necessary to cut the plasterboard in such a way that a small gap remains to the floor (about 10 mm). It is necessary in order to exclude drywall contact with the floor, from which the sheet can receive moisture.

The easiest way to work with GKL is if the irregularities of the base do not exceed 4 mm. The sequence of actions is as follows:

The scheme of leveling the walls with drywall.

Usually wall decoration starts from the corner.
The solution is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. You should not cook a large amount at once, because. It usually has a short shelf life. Most often, Fugenfüller is used for these purposes.
A solution is applied to the sheets along the perimeter with a notched trowel. They also spend 1 or 2 bands in the center. If you plan to hang shelves and other furniture, gluing should be continuous. However, putty should not go to the joint.
Linings are installed along the wall (2-3 pieces per sheet), which will ensure that a gap of 10 mm is maintained. The support must provide ventilation, as air is needed to dry the adhesive. Drywall scraps can be used as linings.
The plate is lifted and installed on supports, then pressed against the wall. It will be more convenient to take the finishing material if it is placed on a small flooring of wooden bars (2-3 is enough).
Using a fist or a rubber mallet, the sheet is aligned vertically. The lines drawn on the floor are used as a guide.
In this order, the entire room is finished around the perimeter. Using the rule, the evenness of the GKL installation relative to each other is checked. The seams should be even and tight.
In drywall, you need to provide holes for communications, sockets and switches. Pruning is best done locally.
After 3-4 days, after the glue has dried, the supports are removed and the gaps are sealed with sealant.
When attaching drywall to a wooden wall, wide-head nails are acceptable. Glue here will be used rather for alignment.

If the unevenness of the walls ranges from 5 to 20 mm

For large irregularities, use Perlfix. This glue is applied to the sheet in small piles. Their diameter is 100-150 mm, and the height should be slightly greater than the depth of the depressions (from 100 to 300 mm). These cakes are seated quite often: every 300-350 mm, first along the perimeter, and then in the central part.
The sheet is then lifted and placed on the substrates. It is also aligned vertically (for this, lines drawn on the floor and ceiling serve).
When the glue comes out at the joints, it is removed with a spatula. There should be no solution in the seam.

What to do if the irregularities are 20-40 mm

The most difficult thing is to finish the walls with drywall if there are large depressions or bumps.

The scheme of wall cladding with drywall on a metal frame.

In this case, fastening along the "beacons" is used.

From the GKL, you need to cut strips 10 cm wide and glue them vertically to the wall. You need to fasten them every 40 or 60 cm. The more often the step, the more reliable the fastening. To do this, it is better to use Perlfix glue.
The strips are aligned so that they are in the same plane. Thus, a kind of frame from the GKL is obtained. The alignment of the walls with drywall occurs precisely at the stage of attaching the base. The glue will be applied in heaps, but the height will be different for everyone: somewhere 10 mm, and somewhere 30 mm or more.
When the frame is assembled on all the walls (or places with large dips), it is left to dry.
After 2-3 days, drywall is glued. It is attached using Fugenfüller. Some prefer liquid nails. Both methods provide high-quality adhesion between the frame and the gypsum board.

Completion of work

The adhesive under the drywall must dry. This takes 2-3 days. Then you can proceed to the final stage: puttying the joints.

First, a leveling layer of the mortar is applied, then a reinforcing tape is pressed into it.

After drying, a second layer is applied - leveling. Also, if screws or nails were used somewhere, they also need to be covered up. To do this, the hats are recessed into the finishing material. You can use the same putty as for gluing. Gaps along the floor are sealed with sealant.

It is possible to use different methods even within the same wall. When the joints dry, you can proceed to the final decoration of the room.

Drywall has long been a worthy alternative to plaster and other finishing materials for leveling walls. With it, dirty work is minimized and repairs take much less time.

It is necessary to fasten drywall sheets to the wall on a special profile by mounting or simply glue it on glue. The second option is simpler and faster, so at home they most often resort to it.

What glue to glue drywall to the wall

Consider the popular types of adhesives for gluing drywall.

Perflix is a simple and inexpensive drywall adhesive for home use. Suitable for those who are interested how to glue drywall to a brick wall.
Fugenfüller is a putty version of the glue. Requires manual kneading, it is necessary to apply a thin layer.
Ceresit CM 11 and mixtures with similar properties. Designed for ceramic tiles, but also well suited for drywall.
Silicone Adhesive - Bonds drywall well to mirrored surfaces and ceramic tiles.
Mounting drywall adhesive - it is recommended to use it for those who do not know how to glue drywall to a concrete wall. Differs in simplicity and convenience of application, available at the price.
Putty Knauf Fugen - ideal for gluing drywall on even walls. The polymer additives included in the composition make the mixture plastic, so the putty can be applied in a thin layer.

What walls should be in order to glue drywall

The use of adhesives, regardless of the materials used, always requires detailed surface preparation.

First of all, the walls must be cleaned from the remnants of wallpaper, old paint, plaster and other finishing materials down to the concrete or brick base. This is necessary in order for the drywall to hold securely.

Bare walls require cleaning from dust and primer, this will help increase the adhesion of materials, ensure adhesion of glue and drywall.

Smooth walls are half the battle. But, unfortunately, they are not common in modern homes, and therefore additional work is required.

If the coatings are even, the task is greatly simplified, as the consumption of materials is reduced.
Walls with differences of no more than 5 mm can be attributed to even walls. In this case, you can do with putty.

If your surfaces in the room are uneven, you must use Knauf-Perlfix gypsum adhesive. Even if there are irregularities of more than 20 mm, drywall will hold.

Instructions - glue drywall step by step

The order of gluing, if the walls are even

Prepare the surface - remove dirt, dust.
Cut sheets of drywall, providing a gap of 10-15 mm from the floor for a heat-shrink joint, which will later be sealed with sealant. It is also necessary to think over the places for sockets and cut holes for them.
To avoid mistakes when working with complex areas, including at folds, the marking and cutting of sheets for them is carried out after gluing the previous sheets.
The sheets are placed face down along the wall. Putty is applied with a notched trowel in strips along the perimeter and in the center. With a sheet thickness of up to 12.5 mm, one strip along the sheet will suffice, with a thickness of 9.5 mm, two strips are applied. In places with increased load, it is recommended to apply glue in a continuous area.
After applying the composition, the sheets are lifted, placed on a lining and glued to the wall. Small sheets of drywall are suitable as linings, which then need to be removed. To ensure that the sheets lay flat on the wall, use a long level.

If the walls are uneven

In this case, the gluing procedure will depend on the degree of curvature of the walls. Gluing can be done in two ways.

With a deviation in the planes of no more than 2 centimeters, Knauf-Perlfix gypsum glue is used for work. It is applied with a trowel in small areas, in the center and around the perimeter of drywall. Then the sheets according to the previous scheme are placed on linings and glued to the wall.

If the deviations exceed 20 mm, first cut out strips of drywall 10 cm wide, then attach them to the wall with glue at intervals of 350 mm. These overlays will hold the base sheets and therefore should be centered and around the perimeter. It is more convenient to glue sheets to the base on Fugen putty.

In panel houses, walls with even greater irregularities are often found. But even in this case, there is no reason to refuse drywall. In this situation, you will need a frame in which the wires will be hidden and the wires will be fixed.

From a single sheet, it is necessary to cut strips 10 cm wide, which will serve as the basis.
These strips are attached to the wall at a distance of 50 cm from each other using a level.
The amount of glue applied depends on the size of the irregularities - the larger they are, the thicker the glue layer should be.
When the base is completely glued, you can attach the main sheets of drywall to them with glue or liquid nails.

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Glue consumption

The consumption of the adhesive composition will depend on the adhesive itself. So, for the installation mixture Perlifix, this figure will be 5 kg per 1 sq.m. without taking into account a small margin for possible losses during operation.

For each composition, the manufacturer indicates the recommended consumption rates on the packaging, so you can safely focus on them.

On average, it is 3-5 kg per 1 sq.m. It is important to take into account the drying speed of the glue, it should be enough for the entire period from application to full gluing.

In order to reduce the cost of glue, you must:

apply the composition on a dry surface at a wall temperature not lower than -5C,
remove all dirt from the walls, rinse them,
repair protrusions and cracks,
the base must be carefully primed.

Thus, fastening drywall to glue allows you to quickly and inexpensively transform a room, make repairs in a country house or apartment.