Sheathing the walls inside the room with drywall with your own hands. Plasterboard wall cladding

Wall decoration with drywall is the best option for leveling any surface. This applies to both completely new buildings, where finishing work with putty is excluded (for example, office buildings), and old houses, up to adobe. In the latter, it is quite simple to sheathe the walls of the GKL. The finished structure does not form a load, it is easy to mount, the amount of related materials is minimal.

Thanks to the GKL, a perfectly flat surface is achieved, which can be pasted over with wallpaper (no reaction to glue) or even painted after grouting the seams. The strength of the drywall sheet is quite sufficient to prevent “breakthroughs” from accidental physical impact, mounting pictures, computer monitors on brackets and other equipment weighing up to 15 kg and fastener sizes of 25 * 15 cm on its plane. Reducing the size of the latter leads to a proportional decrease in the weight of the object being mounted per 1 sq. m. GKL.

The above benefits are only a small part of what drywall wall construction has. But, before proceeding with self-cladding of the wall, it is strongly recommended that you familiarize yourself with the information below: find out which cladding method to choose, what materials, tools are needed and, then, how to properly sheathe the walls with drywall!

What tools and materials do you need to buy?

For sheathing in a frame way, you will need to buy:

1. Plasterboard sheet (quantity and dimensions are selected individually).
2. Ceiling profiles (PP).
3. Metal guide profiles.
4. Direct suspension.
5. Profile extensions.
6. Self-tapping screws.
7. Dowels.
8. Connectors.
9. Construction knife.
10. Metal scissors.
11. Perforator / drill (depending on the wall material).
12. Roulette.
13. Pencil or marker.
14. Screwdriver.
15. Level (for more accurate and faster work, it is better to choose a laser level).
16. Other materials (serpyanka, putty, primer).

Sheathing with frameless method:

1. paper perforated tape for seams.
2. putty for the initial processing of seams and caps of self-tapping screws.
3. finishing coat.
4. primer against fungi.
5. dry mounting mix based on gypsum binder with polymer additives.
6. a special knife for plasterboard (clerical will not work).
7. measurement tool (tape measure, level, etc.).
8. pen-pencil.

Phased wall cladding with a frame method

Stage 1: markup

It can be performed both with a building level (manual, laser), and with a plumb line. Using the latter guarantees a more accurate result, but increases the duration of the work. First of all, you need to determine the largest irregularities that protrude into the room and transfer the corresponding points to the floor.

From the points obtained, and there can be from one to a couple of dozen, it is necessary to determine the one that is closer to the center of the room (the largest unevenness of the wall), and draw a straight line through it. The last one is the outline of the rectangle. All other transferred points must be between the rectangle line and the real wall.

Next, you need to draw a straight line parallel to the one mentioned, but already retreating 5 mm and additional space for the "U"-shaped profile (pre-measure with a ruler). It is along this line that the installation of the profile structure will be carried out. A similar one must be transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line.

Stage 2: installation of "U"-shaped profile around the perimeter of the room

Before proceeding, it is necessary to cut a profile of the appropriate length. It is attached to the floor, walls and ceiling. In almost 100% of cases, craftsmen use ordinary dowels and golden-colored screws for quick installation of the structure. The latter are simply hammered into the already installed dowels.

When working on surfaces such as wood and adobe, it is strongly recommended to use ordinary black screws, which must be screwed in with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Action algorithm

• on the prepared profile, drill holes with a diameter of 7 mm every 40 cm;

Profiles with pre-drilled holes are commercially available. If their diameter is less than necessary, it is better to expand them with a drill. Otherwise, the dowels may be damaged and poorly fixed in the wall.

• try on the finished profile to the mounting surface, observing its placement: front side on the drawn line;

A line should be visible through the holes in the profile.

• mark the holes with a pencil or pen;

If you have certain skills in working with profile structures, this step can be omitted.

• using a puncher, make the required number of holes for the profile;

An alternative to a massive and not very convenient hammer drill can be a drill with a percussion function.

• install profiles on the floor, wall, ceiling, while using dowels and one of the mentioned types of screws / self-tapping screws.

Installation of the profile on curved walls is accompanied by its deformation (wave-like state). This can be avoided by making cuts at the top and bottom with metal scissors.

Installation of the main frame from the "C"-shaped profile

It consists of several stages and two types of "C"-shaped profile. Given the skills of working with drywall constructions, it is extremely difficult to deal with this. That is why the further algorithm of actions will be described according to this picture.

At the joints of drywall sheets, there should always be a docking profile. In this illustration, it is shown in blue. In total, there are 4 of these pieces per standard wall with a single window and door opening, subject to a sheet width of 1.2 meters (generally accepted value among manufacturers).

There must always be an intermediate profile between the connecting cross members. Its quantity depends on the initial idea. If a two-layer plasterboard wall finish is assumed, then the intermediate profile is installed at a distance of 0.6 m. In the graphic example, such a device is marked in orange.

If it is necessary to sheathe the wall in one sheet, two intermediate ones are installed between the docking ones. In the photo they are marked in blue and are at a distance of 0.4 meters.

Violet marks the intermediate profile, which must be added to the overall structure if the window sill is sewn up.

The installation of an intermediate profile (purple) above the window can be ignored, provided that the height of the remaining wall from the top of the door and window slope does not exceed 50 cm.

Action algorithm

• fasten the profiles to the wall, observing the distance between them;

On walls made of wood or clay, it is better to use dowels in combination with black long self-tapping screws.

• cut the "C"-shaped profile along the length;

It should be 0.5 - 0.8 cm shorter than the entire distance between the walls.

Provided that the length of the wall is more than 3 meters, you will also need to buy connecting brackets for profiles.

• connect CD and UD profile to each other;

This must be done ignoring the exact perpendicular position in relation to the UD profile. The CD profile connects to the mentioned one a little obliquely.

• using a building cord or level, based on the flow state of the walls, determine the gap from the wall that will remain behind the CD profile after its installation;
• fix the CD profile with the existing wall brackets.

The action can be performed both with screws and rivets.

It is better to make the frame in parts, for example, conditionally dividing the wall into two parts.

GKL installation

Produced quite simply. The drywall sheet must be placed in a vertical position and aligned with the frame. This is done with wooden wedges. It is very inconvenient to cope with the task on your own, but it is quite possible.

It is enough to fasten the adjusted sheet with two self-tapping screws, after which the wedges can be removed. Self-tapping screws must be screwed in with a measured effort. Their hat should enter the sheet by no more than 1 mm. Otherwise, cracks are possible, which will appear over time, since the thickness of the putty without a reinforcing binder on the gypsum board cannot exceed 15-20 mm.

Instead of a screwdriver, they also use a drill with a special nozzle.

If the standard sheet of finishing material is too large, then using a construction knife or a jigsaw, it can be shortened and adjusted to the appropriate dimensions. It is also worth noting that when cutting with a knife, there is practically no dust.

These tools are also suitable for making a non-straight cut. Such, for example, at an angle of 90 degrees, will require a combination of a knife and a jigsaw. The latter, for whatever reason, can be replaced with a saw for metal or wood. Short cuts are best done with a jigsaw, which guarantees filigree accuracy, and long cuts with a knife. Having made a continuous cut, it is very easy to break off the desired part.

Putty

It is carried out in several stages. The first and, perhaps, the main one is the sealing of joints. Here it is necessary to take into account the fact that the putty itself does not hold well. That is why it is strongly recommended to stick a reinforcing mesh - sickle. On sale it is available in completely different gradations and sizes, both in width and length.

Do not try to putty the seams that remain between the sheet and the floor, ceiling. By laying a floor covering, for example, a laminate, it is already possible to compensate for about 2.5 cm. The remaining seam can be closed with a plastic plinth, thereby providing additional ventilation in the wall.

The result of installation on the frame

Advantages:

• structural strength;
• the ability to enhance sound insulation, as well as hide junction boxes with wires, heating and sewage pipes;
• project implementation even on the most uneven walls;
• the possibility of surface finishing with plasterboard tiles.

Disadvantages:

• the complexity of installation (we are talking about the frame);
• financial costs for related components;
• the whole structure takes up a lot of space (about 8-10 cm on each side).

Frameless sheathing

It is an alternative to the wireframe method. It has one significant drawback - wall decoration up to 3 m with irregularities up to 20 mm. Provided, if any, use only glue for mounting GKL. In its composition, it may differ slightly, especially when it comes to moisture-resistant or ordinary drywall. Since glue is the only GKL connector with the wall, you should not save on buying it.

If irregularities over 20 mm are detected, separate pieces of it, pre-treated with glue on both sides, can be used as the basis for the finishing material in question.

It is possible to glue drywall only on a carefully prepared surface: bare brick, aerated concrete, cinder block. It is strictly forbidden to perform work on the following surfaces: adobe, shell rock, whitewash. Also, before applying the adhesive to the wall, it must be cleaned of accumulated sawdust. All work is carried out at a temperature not lower than 10 degrees. As with wallpapering, drafts and windows should be avoided for a week after the work is completed.

Glue is prepared 10 minutes before application to the work surface. Ignoring the requirement will lead to its folding and a decrease in adhesive ability.

Important! Before starting work, it is necessary to remove all petrified ledges of cement mortar.

Glue is applied to the back of the sheet in the form of horizontal and vertical stripes. Immediately after this, the GKL is pressed against the wall. Provided that excess connecting material is applied, it protrusion along the edges. It is enough to remove it with a spatula and wipe the places with a dry cloth. If errors were found during installation, then until the glue dries completely, which is about 10 minutes, it is possible to adjust the position of the sheet relative to the wall.

Ultimately, it becomes quite clear that the choice of installation method depends on the current condition of the walls, as well as the amount of work on and preparation. That is why, experts strongly recommend taking measurements and, only then, purchasing materials for the proposed design. It is also worth noting that sheathing by gluing GKL on wallpaper or old wall covering is not possible, especially subsequent tiling.

Video footage:

Drywall sheets allow you to level the walls, skillfully hiding any irregularities, create a variety of protrusions and recesses, etc. The material is characterized by sufficient strength, it is easy to process and use, you can install such sheets without any problems.

Having understood the basic principles, you can independently align the walls of your house or, for example, make a new partition. It is only necessary to decide on the required form of the finished result and choose the optimal method for fixing the sheets.

There are two main methods of fastening drywall sheets, namely:

• installation on a pre-built frame;
• frameless fastening on the adhesive composition.

In some situations, for best results, the above methods are used in combination.

The base is assembled from a special plasterboard profile. At the end, it remains only to screw the sheets to the frame with screws and perform the required finishing work. The disadvantage of the frame technology is that the total thickness of the finished skin will be more than 4-5 cm, i.e. the useful area of ​​​​the room will significantly decrease.

Choose the appropriate fastening method. I want to fix the sheets as securely as possible - make a frame. It is important to keep the existing square - use the glue-based method.

Preparing walls for plasterboarding

Sheathing walls with drywall requires several preparatory steps.

It is highly recommended to get rid of the old wall covering before attaching the frame or gluing the sheets. Carefully remove it to the ground. Additionally, dismantling the old finish will free up a few centimeters that can be used for new skin, saving as much free space as possible.

This operation is not mandatory, but experts strongly recommend it. Additionally, the surface is treated with an antiseptic preparation.

The third stage is preliminary marking. To begin with, it will be enough to mark the boundaries above the floor and under the ceiling, from which the plasterboard walls will begin and end. Traditionally, a distance of 50 mm is postponed.

Frame Construction Guide

The first stage is the preparation of materials. A galvanized profile is used to assemble the frame for drywall. On the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls, the so-called. UD profile. Dowels are used to fix such profiles.

The second stage is the installation of jumpers. After the starting profiles are fixed, proceed with the installation of vertical jumpers. For this, the so-called. CD profile. It is on him that the drywall will rely. The edges of the profile should “look” at the wall, with the wide side into the room. Fasten with self-tapping screws designed specifically for galvanized profiles.

Fasten the first main profile near the side wall. Fasten the following in increments of 60 cm. In this case, the distance must be set aside from the center of the installed profiles, and not from their edges. Under the next wall, the CD profile must also be fixed closely, regardless of the distance between it and the previous profile.

The third stage is strengthening the fasteners. To make the fixing of the profiles more reliable, it is highly recommended to use perforated hangers. These products have the form of galvanized strips with perforated ends. Such clamps need to be shaped like the letter “P” and fixed with their middles to the wall, placing them under each profile installed vertically. At the edges of the element there are "ears". Attach them to your profile. Check the evenness of the placement of all elements using a level and, if necessary, make adjustments.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of one sheet of drywall (standard 2.5 m), add the missing piece of material from below or above. At the joints, install jumpers from the CD profile you already know.

Installation of sheets and completion of work

The frame is ready, and you can safely proceed to the main work. It is also carried out in several stages and requires maximum care and responsibility from the master.

The first stage is the installation of drywall sheets. The material, as already noted, is attached to the main profiles. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long, made of hardened metal. It is more convenient, better and faster than most self-tapping screws to be screwed in with an electric screwdriver. Tighten until the fastener heads are flush with the drywall. Fasteners are twisted in increments of 100-150 mm in the center of the sheet and along its perimeter. Usually, the sheets initially have a center line, which makes installation easier.

The second step is filling in the gaps. In case one sheet of material is not enough to fill all the available space, take a new sheet and cut pieces of the required size from it. Drywall is remarkably cut with an ordinary construction knife. It is enough to simply cut the paper of the drywall sheet along the cut line and gently break the element, and then cut the paper on the reverse side in the same way. Fix the rest and proceed to the final finish.

The third stage is the finishing of the plasterboard structure. First you need to seal the seams. The sealing is carried out using a special self-adhesive mesh. The laid mesh must be puttied. Usually enough starting putty. It will allow you to get the most even surface.

To carry out further work, you need to decide what material will be used as a topcoat. For example, in the case of laying tiles or other opaque thick material, you should simply putty the joints of adjacent sheets, wait until the putty dries and move on to the finish lining. Putty is applied to drywall with a layer of about 1.5-2 mm, there is no need for a thicker coating.

Sand the surface with a sandpaper, and then treat the walls with a primer. If further painting is planned, the surface should be as smooth and even as possible. If there are irregularities, apply a new layer of putty, sand it and check the surface for irregularities. Repeat the above procedures if necessary.

If drywall walls are already made in a small room, arranging the frame can become an unaffordable luxury, because. because of it, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is reduced by several square meters. In such a situation, the best option is to attach the sheets to the base with glue.

The first step is surface preparation. It is highly recommended to level the surface. Any kind of holes, bulges and similar defects will impair the adhesion of the sheets to the base. Use putty for leveling. After the putty has dried, prime the base.

Cut the drywall into sheets of the desired size. Above the floor and under the ceiling, leave gaps about 5 cm wide.

The third stage is the preparation of mounting holes. Drill holes in the wall to place the dowels. Fasteners must be screwed in so that their caps form a single plane with the base.

The fourth stage is the preparation of the adhesive solution. Glue is prepared from a dry mixture specially designed for such work and clean water. Read the manufacturer's instructions. It contains a recipe for your particular glue, because. for different mixtures, the procedure for preparing the solution may vary. The consistency of the finished mixture will resemble a paste. The glue dries very quickly, so it is strongly recommended to prepare it in small portions and immediately before starting work. The specific drying time is also indicated in the instructions.

The fifth stage is gluing sheets. Before attaching the sheets, the base must be thoroughly cleaned of any dirt and dust, because. dirt will reduce adhesion to the adhesive. Apply adhesive to the back of the sheets. Along the center line and edges of the sheet, the glue is applied in longitudinal strips, along the rest of the plane - in heaps. Such heaps should be made at most every 25-30 cm. It is not recommended to level the heaps into a continuous layer, because. this will lead to a significant increase in the consumption of the solution, and will also not allow the entire sheet area to be properly docked to the wall.

Place the drywall on the subfloor and press evenly. If necessary, you can compact the fixation with a rubber mallet. In this case, you first need to apply a wooden block to the sheet and knock on it with a hammer, otherwise you can punch holes in the coating.

Wait for the glue to harden. Information about the drying time must be given in the instructions. Please read this manual carefully before starting work and keep it until completion. Only after the glue has completely dried can you proceed to the next steps.

In this case, the already familiar self-adhesive tape is also used. Glue the tape to the seams and putty the joints so that they are at the same level with the main surface. Alignment is carried out using the starting putty.

Finishing putty is used only when necessary, for example, when drywall is being prepared for painting. In the end, it remains only to finish the walls with the selected coating.

Thus, drywall allows you to get perfectly smooth and even walls without wasting time and money. Choose the method of fixing the sheets that is best for your case and proceed with the installation. Follow the instructions and do not forget the recommendations received.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself wall sheathing with drywall

The use of drywall for wall cladding is beginning to replace traditional surface finishing materials. And all thanks to a lot of advantages: simplicity, lightness, inexpensive cost of GKL sheets, the ability to hide irregularities up to 20 mm. You can carry out the work yourself, without the involvement of help. It is enough to make calculations and choose the appropriate sheathing method: with or without a frame device.

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Features, advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

GKL sheets are a versatile material that can be mounted on almost any surface. It has many advantages:

1. 1. The ability to quickly finish the walls and ceilings with your own hands. This eliminates the need for leveling solutions.
2. 2. The constructed structures fit perfectly into any design solution - you can create not only flat areas, but also curvilinear, decorative ones (arches, recesses).
3. 3. Drywall has excellent technical characteristics. But due to the fact that he is afraid of moisture, you can not do without the use of waterproofing material.
4. 4. It is very convenient that the entire structure can be quickly dismantled if necessary.
5. 5. By using a metal frame, good rigidity of the base can be achieved, which will last for a long time.
6. 6. You can lay communications without creating additional "channels".
7. 7. The surface of drywall sheets is treated with any finishing materials.
8. 8. This method of wall alignment is optimal for internal wall insulation in a wooden house.

Before starting work, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the shortcomings of drywall.

The main disadvantage is low strength. So, the GKL sheet may burst or crack during transportation, installation, operation. Therefore, it is important to carry out the work as carefully as possible. For the same reason, it is not recommended to use these materials in places where heavy loads are expected. If you plan to hang shelves on the wall for mounting TV, other equipment and heavy structures, it is best to finish with two layers of drywall.

Another disadvantage is poor soundproofing. To improve this parameter, one cannot do without laying mineral wool or other insulation.

It is worth considering in advance which drywall you will buy. It is divided into the following types:

• simple;
• with increased resistance to fire;
• moisture resistant.

The first type is usually used to decorate rooms with a normal level of humidity. Moisture resistant GKL sheets are used in rooms with a high level of humidity. GKL with high resistance to flame are suitable for kitchens, baths, and other similar premises.

We draw up an estimate - calculation of the amount of drywall

To carry out the lining, you must correctly make all the calculations. Here you do not need to have special knowledge in the field of mathematics - it is enough to calculate the quadrature of the room.

Take into account:

• height;
• width;
• room length.

It is necessary to measure the room around the entire perimeter, and not just in the corners, since the parameters can be different. This is especially worth remembering for owners of old buildings, where there is often a serious difference in ceiling height. To take measurements, you will need a pencil, tape measure, blank sheet.

Instructions for budgeting:

• we calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls by multiplying the height by the width;
• from the total area we subtract the area of ​​​​windows and doorways;
• we add to the obtained parameters another 15-20% of the material in reserve.

How to carry out preparatory activities?

The room needs to be freed from all objects, everything superfluous must be removed from the walls, communications and wiring must be removed.

Sheathing with this material closes defects, irregularities, therefore it is not necessary to align them. But it is worth checking the integrity of the coating. Wallpaper or old paint is removed, all existing cracks are sealed.

Wall surfaces must be cleaned of dust, primed.

You will need the following tools:

• GKL sheets;
• profiles;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• brackets;
• screwdriver

Frame sheathing technology - step by step instructions

In order to sheathe the walls with the highest quality, to get a result that will delight with a long service life, it is necessary to carefully follow the finishing technology using GKL sheets.

Marking and installation of guide profiles

Step back from the walls by 2-3 cm, draw a marking line where the guide profile will be installed. If you plan to sheathe all the walls in the rooms, then the markings should be carried out parallel to them. A guide profile is applied along the intended line and installed on self-tapping screws. On the sides of the walls, vertical guide profiles are mounted, screwed with screws at the base and ceiling.

Evenness must be checked using the building level.

Profile mounting

To fasten products, first make markings on the surface: draw strict vertical lines from ceiling to floor at a distance of 50-60 cm. Brackets are screwed along the markings with an interval of 0.5 m in height.

After that, they are inserted into the lower and upper guide profile, screwed with self-tapping screws. Each product additionally needs to be strengthened with brackets.



Communications and wiring

The next step is laying wiring and communications inside the premises. The main thing is that they do not act for the guides. For installation, you need to use special clamps. At this stage, it is very important to pay attention to sealing all joints, high-quality wire insulation. This will avoid the dismantling of GKL sheets to correct the situation.

Warming

Even if you do not want to insulate the walls, a layer of mineral wool or other material is still needed to improve sound insulation. The product is cut into strips so that their width is greater than the distance between the profiles by about 3-4 cm. The insulation is laid as tightly as possible so that there are no gaps between it.

wall cladding

Sheathing must be started from the corner: take the first sheet, attach it to the profile, align it along the edges and screw it onto self-tapping screws (there must be at least 30 cm between the fasteners). We install the next sheet of GKL side by side, aligning the joints on the profile, and mount it further around the entire perimeter of the room.

There are some important tips. It is impossible for the self-tapping screws to protrude above the sheets, but it is also not worth deepening them by more than 2 mm. For control, you can use a special bit with a limiter.



Seam sealing

Since the GKL sheets have slightly rounded edges, small seams form when they are joined. To seal them, putty, a spatula and a special reinforcing tape are required. They operate simply:

• knead the mixture;
• cut off a piece of sickle of the desired length;
• apply the mixture to the seam and apply a reinforcing tape;
• straighten the material, put a layer of putty on top and distribute it over the surface.

You should not make too thick a layer - several thin ones are better, moreover, applying putty after the previous layer has dried. When the material is completely dry, it is cleaned with sandpaper.

Joints at external corners must be closed with corner profiles, fixing to a layer of putty.

Finishing sheathing

To remove minor defects that may be on drywall, it should be finished with a layer of finishing putty, which is applied with a large metal spatula. If you plan to paint the walls in the future, then you need to apply at least two layers. When the material dries, go over the sheets with sandpaper. The top is finished with clapboard or wallpaper.

According to this step-by-step instruction, partitions in the apartment can also be made from drywall.

Sheathing with frameless method

With this method, drywall is glued to the walls on a special compound. Moreover, the work must be performed only after all the “wet” processes (laying the screed, plastering) are completed. This will prevent the sheets from absorbing excess moisture in the room.

With this method of wall cladding with drywall, the material is glued directly onto a bare surface. If it is as even as possible, without damage, the adhesive mixture should be applied around the perimeter of the sheet and 1-2 stripes in the center.

But if the walls are made of brick, stone (in this case, there may be serious differences up to 2 cm), the solution must be applied to the sheet area.

It is better to use compositions such as:

• glue "Perflix";
• putty "Fugenfüller".

But if the differences on the walls are more than 2 cm, they should be leveled using plasterboard linings. To do this, you need to cut a sheet of plasterboard into strips about 10 cm wide, mount them on top of each other to get a flat wall.

Do not forget to clean the surfaces from dust, old finishing material and primer before gluing drywall sheets.

Plasterboard sheets (GKL) are an excellent substitute for the usual method of leveling walls - plaster. The article discusses the main methods of applying this material.

Plasterboard wall cladding

Gypsum boards are produced in sizes 1200 * 2500 mm, thickness varies from 6.5 to 12.5 mm. The technical characteristics of drywall allow it to be used for interior decoration in all rooms. There are types of drywall with increased moisture or fire resistance.

Drywall interior decoration: advantages and disadvantages

Cladding walls and ceilings has a number of undeniable advantages:

• the ability to hide under the sheets of communications, such as electrical wiring or heating pipes;
• the ability to level even very uneven walls;
• high installation speed;
• mineral wool can be laid in the voids between the wall and the sheathing to increase sound and heat insulation.

Of the significant shortcomings, it should be noted the higher, relative to plaster, the cost of material and work, the impossibility of hanging heavy objects without prior preparation.

Sheathing methods

GCR surfaces are designed in 2 ways:

1. By frame.
2. Directly on the wall or ceiling.

The frame is usually made of a galvanized thin-walled metal profile, but it is also possible to manufacture it from wood. When fastening sheets without a profile, special glue and dowels with self-tapping screws are used.

GKL sheathing on the frame: technology

When fastening the material using a frame, it is very important to mount it correctly.

• The guides fixed on the walls must be strictly vertical, as well as the intermediate racks.
• The distance between the centers of the racks should be 600 mm, i.e. so that the joint of the sheets falls on the profile.
• To strengthen the structure, you can reduce the size to 400 mm.
• If it is necessary to join sheets vertically, a horizontal profile is installed to link 2 sheets together.
• Drywall is fixed to a metal frame with black self-tapping screws for metal, 25-32 mm long, to a wooden one - with self-tapping screws for wood of the same length.
• To improve the strength and insulating properties, it is possible to sew with sheets in 2 layers. In this case, the sheets are sewn in a checkerboard pattern.

How to sew drywall without a frame

GKL without using a frame can be fixed with special glue or mechanically, using dowels and self-tapping screws. It is allowed to combine these 2 methods, fixing the sheets first on the adhesive composition, and after it dries, on self-tapping screws. At the same time, it is important to fasten drywall with hardware in those places where the glue is applied, and not between them, because. can be deformed and even break the coating.

GKL decor

Plasterboard walls and ceilings are painted, covered with wallpaper, simple or paintable, finished with decorative plaster compositions. The walls are tiled with tiles, decorative bricks, stone, etc.

Suspension

Only light objects can be hung on plasterboard walls, such as photographs, decorative shelves, light mirrors. For screwing self-tapping screws into the GKL, special dowels are used: driva, molly or "butterflies". Provided that the location of the profile is precisely known, it is possible to tighten the metal screws to hang various objects directly into the frame elements. For fixing heavier items (cabinets or bookshelves), it is necessary to arrange special mortgages.

Do-it-yourself mounting technology on the profile on the walls

To install a false wall of drywall, you will need the following tools:

• Roulette, square, pencil.
• Level.
• Plumb.
• Thread (lace).
• Metal shears or grinder.
• Perforator.
• Screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Profile cutter.
• Construction knife.
• Planer for drywall.
• Putty knife.

Materials:

• Guide profile PN.
• Rack profile PS or ceiling profile PP.
• Suspension straight.
• Single-level connector (crab).
• Dowels.
• Self-tapping screws for wood, black metal.
• self-tapping screws for thin plates with a press washer pointed (bugs).
• Damper tape.
• Sickle tape or paper tape for joints.
• Putty.

Mounting methods for dowels: how to install

A damper tape is attached along the perimeter of the future wall, and a guide profile is attached to it. The frame element is installed on the floor in the form of an inverted letter "P", fastened with self-tapping screws to a wooden floor or dowels and self-tapping screws to a concrete floor. After that, strictly vertically above the floor profile, the guide is attached to the ceiling, then the guides are attached to the walls.

It is necessary to observe strict verticality, unless otherwise provided by the design.

How to choose fasteners for brick, concrete and wooden walls

To attach the hangers and rails to the walls, you may need various hardware, depending on the material of the walls. The frame elements are attached to the wooden walls with wood screws. For installation on brick or concrete surfaces, you need to use dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel nails. The use of dowel-nails increases the speed of work, but it is more difficult to dismantle them if it is necessary to redo the structure

How to properly mount and lay the profile

After installing the guides around the perimeter, mark the location of the rack profiles. Usually they are placed at a distance of 600 mm between the centers, so that the vertical joints of the sheets fall clearly in the middle of the profile. To give the frame greater rigidity, the distance is reduced to 400 mm. From the points obtained, vertical lines are drawn, direct suspensions are attached to them in increments of 400-500 mm. Insert the rack profile cut to size with the ends into the guides on the floor and in the ceiling.

The rack profile should be cut 5-6 mm shorter than the distance between the floor and the ceiling.

The rack profile is set vertically and attached to the guides with "bugs" or with the help of a notcher, then attached to the suspensions, constantly checking the verticality with a level. When all profiles are fixed, check the plane with a rule, a long level or a thread. Deviation from the plane of more than 2 mm should be corrected.

At the joints of the sheets in height, additional horizontal profiles are installed. It is recommended to arrange such joints at the bottom of the wall.

How to fasten sheets of drywall to the frame: installation of drywall on the walls

Gypsum boards are fixed with self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm long. The sheet is put in place, fastened to 1 self-tapping screw, then adjusted in level and fastened to the rest. The fastening pitch should be approximately 200 mm or more. The hardware is twisted so that the head is flush with the surface of the sheet without breaking through the paper.

You need to fasten the sheet in one direction, for example, from left to right from bottom to top. If you fix the sheet in different angles, with further fastening it may bend.

First, whole sheets are attached, then the parts are cut to size and the remaining parts of the wall are covered. The cut edges are processed with a drywall planer.

Before sewing up the wall with sheets under the frame, you can lay sound and heat insulating materials, wiring.

Grouting seams and holes from dowels: how to finish

Seams with a factory chamfer on the wall are glued with sickle tape or paper tape for joints. Seams without a chamfer are cut with a construction knife. The surface is primed. Seams and recesses from self-tapping screws are puttied with gypsum-based putty mixtures. As a rule, the packaging of the material indicates whether it is suitable for sealing GKL joints or not.

Sheathing and finishing the ceiling in the apartment yourself: what you need

To install a plasterboard ceiling, you will need the same tools as for walls. Additionally, you will need a hydraulic level or a laser level, a coated marking cord and a T-shaped rack made of bars or a profile. All work on the ceiling is more convenient to do with a partner.

How to attach to a concrete base on the ceiling

On the ceiling mark the location of the ceiling profiles. Usually they are placed along a short wall with a step of 600 mm. The most convenient way to do this is with a coated cord. Then hangers are attached to dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. If the ceiling is lowered a considerable distance from the draft one, special suspensions should be used, similar to the Armstrong ceiling mounts.

Mounting rails

Mark the attachment point using a laser level or hydro level, marking points at the corners of the room at a given height, usually as close as possible to the draft ceiling, and drawing lines using a marking cord. A damper tape is attached to the wall, then guide profiles. The GKL ceiling can be lowered for laying insulating materials or communication devices.

How to hang sheets

GCR is attached to the frame, starting from the corner, with the long side along the short wall, parallel to the ceiling profiles on the plane. It is most convenient to fasten the sheets by supporting them with a special stand, which can be purchased at the store or made independently from a bar or profile in the form of the letter “T”. It is recommended to use moisture resistant GKL.

Do not let go of the sheet until it is secured with at least 15 screws.

Facing uneven walls with your own hands: what is worth remembering

When facing walls, it is important to maintain verticality and ensure that the profile does not deviate from the plane. If the GKL is attached to the wall without a frame, it is important to fasten the screws in places where the sheet will not “walk”, otherwise the screws will protrude on the surface. Before facing the walls, it is advisable to sweep or vacuum them and the space behind the frame, it is also recommended to prime them to avoid dust.

How to install faster

To increase the speed of installing drywall on the wall, you need to properly mount the frame and fix the first sheet without level deviations. Most quickly, such work is done by two or three people, when one person is busy setting the sheets in place and cutting to size, and the remaining 1 or 2 are pulling with self-tapping screws. The use of professional screwdrivers with tape feed of hardware significantly increases the speed of work.

What can be mounted on a plasterboard wall

With appropriate preparation, almost any item can be attached to walls made of gypsum plasterboard, including cabinets and storage water heaters. To do this, in the manufacture of the frame, so-called mortgages from plywood or boards are arranged. Lumber is sewn onto the draft wall so that the front surface of the mortgage is in the same plane as the frame. If the mortgage is deeper than the frame, when attaching hanging objects, the wall will be pushed through.

What can be covered with plasterboard sheathing

After sealing the seams and holes from fasteners, a wall made of GKL can be painted or wallpapered, covered with decorative plaster, covered with textile wallpaper. Surfaces made of moisture-resistant drywall are recommended to be covered with a continuous layer of putty, otherwise the green color may be visible through the finish coat.

Also, the walls can be covered with tiles, decorative stone or brick, stucco, panels. Before facing, it is not necessary to process seams and traces of self-tapping screws.

Drywall is a modern finishing material that allows you to carry out finishing work with minimal labor and time costs.

Useful video

Facing the wall with drywall is perhaps the second option after plaster. It is indispensable for some work on leveling walls and hiding communications.
Regardless of whether plasterboard lining is done on wooden walls or consisting of any other material, it is carried out according to certain rules and according to technology. In this article, we will tell you how to clad walls with drywall according to the correct technology.
Before starting work, you should find out how this finish differs from other types. It is likely that you will change your mind after reading it.

Plasterboard wall cladding has its pros and cons. Before buying the material, you should familiarize yourself with them.
So:

• The internal lining of the walls with drywall perfectly aligns the base plane. Moreover, minimal surface preparation is required;
• You can completely hide all communications. If they are placed in inconvenient places, then you can make additional boxes from this material and arrange them for interior items.
  This you can see in the photo and video;
• If you need to level out not strong irregularities, you can make drywall wall cladding with glue. Although even walls are quite rare among us, it can be like that;
• Wall cladding with drywall allows you to immediately carry out and insulate the walls. And also make additional soundproofing;
• All work is carried out with environmentally friendly materials that will not harm your health;
• It is fashionable to do the installation of drywall completely with your own hands, and without resorting to outside help. This will save you a lot of money;
• The price of the material is not high, it is much lower than many materials and almost anyone can afford it.

Attention: Of course, all this can be done, but for a start it is worth choosing the right drywall, which is divided into several types. And they are selected depending on the type of room.

Choosing drywall

The lining of wooden walls with drywall or others is done, this is not particularly important. You must first choose the material that suits your room.
It is divided into several types:

• GKL, lining the inner wall with drywall of this type is most common in everyday life. They can decorate rooms of any type.
  It should only be taken into account that its installation is possible in a building with constant heating and without high humidity. It has a gray color and blue markings;
• GKLO, this material is already slightly different from the previous one, it is fire resistant and withstands elevated temperatures. However, it is not suitable for use in a humid environment.
  It is made in blue and red marking is applied;
• GKLV, this material is moisture resistant and can be perfectly used in the bathroom. It's just not for the sauna.
  Its good in moderation and it does not tolerate direct contact with water. And this should be taken into account. It has a green color and has a blue marking;
• GKLVO, plasterboard lining of internal walls with such material is not so common. Its price is higher than the previous options.
  It's just universal. Resists wet environments and elevated temperatures. Has green color and red marking.

We make the interior decoration of the walls with drywall

Facing the internal walls with drywall is done entirely by one's own hands and without resorting to outside help. To do this, you do not need to specially study, you just need to be able to use a tool that is available in almost any household.
All work is divided into several stages, which should be discussed in more detail.

Surface preparation and marking

Wall cladding with drywall begins with this work. She will be the key to success.
Remember, almost everything is important here. Nothing should be missed.
So:

• First you need to remove all the previous coating. To do this, use a metal brush;
• We inspect the surface. We are not interested in cracks and small irregularities.
  We look where there are peeling plaster. If this is the case, then it should be removed with a chisel and hammer;
• After that, we need to treat the surface with antiseptics. They are on free sale.
  To do this, use a brush or spray gun;

Attention: Do the processing without fail. Even if there is no manifestation of the fungus.
It is even worth doing as a preventive measure. Otherwise, if the disease begins to manifest itself after the installation of the cladding, then you will have to remove the entire coating;

• After processing, we wait for complete drying and apply a primer to the surface. To do this, use a brush or spray gun. We are waiting for complete drying;
• Now we need to apply the correct markup and indicate the level of fastening of the sheets. To do this, we use a plumb line.
  We look at what height the sheets should be located. We make a mark on the ceiling and floor. Or two opposite walls;