Do I need to prune roses for the winter. Shrub rose: pruning for the winter

Pruning roses for the winter: When to work?

Geography influences the timing of autumn work. Pruning is carried out before sheltering flowers before the onset of cold weather. For the middle lane, this is the end of October. If the weather is warm, the dates are somewhat postponed. The process is postponed to the beginning of November. When should you prune roses for the winter? Experienced gardeners advise the pruning process to be performed on a sunny fine day.

Preparing for winter pruning roses: why is this element of care required in autumn?

Trimming roses for the winter gives the bush more air and light. Densely growing stems are less protected from diseases. Buds come out rare. The richness of the color leaves much to be desired.

Pruning roses for the winter opens the way for new shoots. Pruning rose bushes for the winter stimulates the strengthening of the stems. They develop, are not exposed to diseases and give healthy offspring in the form of large spring buds.

Pruning roses before winter. In order for the plant to survive the winter, pruning of the bushes is carried out. They cool most of the shoots. Roses that are ready to survive the winter are easier to cover and carry out insulation work.

One more moment. It is necessary to remove unripe shoots and buds. Thus eliminating possible rotting, protecting healthy parts of the plant.

How to prune roses for the winter: common pruning methods

There are three ways to prepare for winter, three pruning options:

radical way. Aggressive cutting. Maximum removal is applied to diseased stems. Varieties that curl strongly and bushes of small sizes are subjected to a shock procedure. Moderate pruning is a cut of 50% of the stems. It is considered the most optimal option, one might say, sparing. Acceptable for almost all types of roses. Shoots are shortened to 4 - 5 future buds. An easy way to trim. In this case, get rid of the upper shoots. It is used when working with delicate varieties. Eight to ten buds remain to winter. Two-thirds of the stem is pruned.

Before starting work, it is necessary to arm yourself with theoretical knowledge and consult with experts in this field.

Care of roses and pruning for the winter of different varieties. What is special? Pruning climbing roses for the winter: features of the operation

Work on the preparation of this species begins in June, and ends with preparatory work when the soil t 0 reaches -5 0. The plant gradually gets used to negative t 0 and adapts more easily. Pruning climbing roses for the winter goes through 5 stages. This unspoken rule helps to observe and care for the plant almost throughout the year.

Pruning climbing roses for the winter

The process involves cutting to the ground. Up to 5 flowering shoots remain to winter. This applies to single flowering plants. Repeatedly flowering varieties are processed and prepared for winter only in the fourth year of life after the first flowering. No more than six flowering branches are left to winter.

Park roses pruning for the winter

Preparation is no different from the procedures carried out with bush varieties. Old branches are cut to the ground. Rarely blooming branches are removed. However, the growth of this variety is not always the same. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor when preparing for winter, taking into account all the nuances.

Pruning for the winter of floribunda roses

Feature of the variety: develop vigorously and grow to a decent size. In preparation for winter, a combined treatment is recommended. Lateral shoots are shortened, leaving no more than 2-3 buds. Branches whose growth is directed towards the center are removed along the outer bud. The processing of this species requires theoretical knowledge and practical skills. Before forging for the winter period, a consultation with an experienced specialist - a gardener will not be superfluous.

Pruning ground cover roses for the winter

If anomalies are noticed in ground cover roses - diseases, broken shoots or a slow growth process, only in this case they are pruned. In aesthetic terms, you can remove the shoots that spoil the overall appearance of the bush.

Pruning indoor roses for the winter

Five buds on a branch is the best option for preparing indoor varieties for winter. The incision is made behind the outer kidney. Many people wonder why plants do not survive the winter. You need to carefully consider the choice of the place of the cut, follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners. Old or diseased stems that have become obsolete are cut off at the root. After pruning, the plants are placed in a cool room.

Pruning weaving roses for the winter

The preparatory operation includes pruning last year's shoots. The cut is made under the base. Naturally, only healthy young flowering shoots remain in the amount of three to five pieces.

Shrub roses pruning for the winter

Pruning spray roses for the winter is carried out at one third of the length. Sick, broken and poorly developing shoots that interfere with the active development of young and healthy branches are subject to removal. It is necessary to control an equal combination of 1-year-old, 2-year-old and perennial shoots.

What tool is needed to replenish trimming?

Should you prune roses for the winter? The answer is unequivocal: yes. There is one BUT to which you need to pay attention. It's about the tool. It must be clean and sharp so as not to accidentally damage the plant. And also do not bring infections with a dirty tool.

A blunt pruner makes a ragged cut, which leads to damage to the bark of plants. The plant painfully endures the inflicted wound. High risk of infection and death. Thick branches are removed with a hacksaw.

The working tool must be stored in a dry, clean place. After work, the pruner, lopper and hacksaw are washed, then dried and disinfected. Work is recommended to be carried out in work gloves that will protect you from sharp spikes.

Finally

How to prune roses for the winter? A question that worries beginner growers and experienced professionals. One year does not fall into another. Therefore, the result of the winter calm appears only in the spring. It is in the spring that the awakened bushes will give an answer on how the preparatory work on the autumn pruning went. We always look forward to awakening and are ready to enjoy the fruits of our labor for hours!

Whoever breeds roses in his dacha or backyard, he knows for sure that this capricious beauty, sung by Antoine de Saint Exupery in The Little Prince, really requires regular care that matches the season. The stage of preparing rose bushes for winter, especially in regions with a harsh frosty climate, is an important task for both beginners and experienced flower growers. And there are no trifles in this.

Everything is important here: at what time, with what and how to cover the bushes of an adult rose, how and with what to feed these ornamental plants so that they do not freeze and get wet during the winter and the protracted spring, but successfully revived to your joy. Long-standing floricultural experience has developed completely clear and useful measures, which this article will introduce you to.

It is very important for beginner gardeners in this matter not to overdo it and not to play it safe: do not rush at full speed at the first slight frost to quickly cover roses. Such panic zeal can cause them direct harm, if not death. Translating rose bushes into winter vegetation mode must be skillful in order to get the best result.

Oddly enough, it sounds, but you need to start preparing roses for winter in hot July according to the principle: “Prepare the sleigh in the summer.” In fact, this is due to the regime of their feeding this month only with potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

It should be finished with the last mineral top dressing with potassium magnesia, which contains potassium, which is responsible for the development of the root system and the formation of wood of skeletal branches, which, accordingly, prepare all shoots for the winter cold. In turn, magnesium helps to lay leaf and flower buds, as well as shoots for the successful vegetation of beautiful next year's rose bushes.

Removing excess foliage

This seemingly superfluous artificial measure, firstly, is determined by the need to prepare the plants for a state of seasonal dormancy. Secondly, it is a sanitary measure against the appearance in the mass of not completely fallen leaves of a favorable rotten environment for rot and the development of harmful microbes and fungi. Thirdly, in the autumn crown of the rose there are already many leaves damaged by black spot or other infections.

By cutting off excess and defective leaves, we prevent future seasonal problems associated with common rose diseases, and we make the wintering process under cover safe and successful. Cut leaves should be disposed of by burning, preventing the spread of spores, germs and viruses in the next season or significantly reducing their impact.

It's important to know! In no case should the extra leaves be cut off, which leads to injury to future buds and shoots, but cut off with a clean and very sharp secateurs or scissors, for convenience, putting them in the trash immediately. Be sure to cut off the underdeveloped inflorescences and fruits, thereby excluding their decay under cover.

If you have several bushes, and among them climbing ones or a whole rose garden, then such a measure of preparation becomes too burdensome and almost impossible. Here it is important to distribute forces and not to postpone pruning of leaves for one run, since September, dosed this sanitary pruning. If it is not possible to cut off all the leaves in full in the conditions of your rose garden, then you should first of all limit yourself to cutting out defective or diseased leaves. Those leaves that you do not have time to cut, spray with Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron sulfate, as well as the Maxim fungicide. Treat the soil around the bushes with ash.

If the varietal affiliation of rose bushes allows them to bend their branches to the ground, excluding upright hybrid tea varieties, then the pruning option loses its relevance. Such specimens are cut at least 50 centimeters in order to make it possible to hide them.

Before sheltering for the winter, rose bushes are spudded, or rather sprinkled with a mound, so that during this agromer, the root system of the bush is not exposed. It is better to cover with spruce branches on top, but do not use sawdust, which draws and retains excess moisture, which can cause the root neck of the bushes to warm up.

Climbing rose - pruning and bending down

Pruning of such varieties of roses is more appropriate in the spring. Weak and thin shoots should be cut shorter, and strong shoots should be cut to half their length. Leave the most powerful and healthy ones without pruning. This will make it possible to form a cascading crown, in which in the summer the entire bush will bloom on new shoots, and not just its upper part.

When pruning a climbing rose in autumn, preparing it for winter shelter, the bulk of the shoots should be preserved, which will allow the bushes to maintain their vegetative power by spring and quickly revive in a lush and flowering crown.

The process of work, and even more so bending down for winter sheltering a climbing rose, is traumatic - they have large, often located thorns. For this reason, your equipment must be reliable from goggles to tight gloves, especially all other clothing.

It may seem to amateurs that bending down a rose bush means laying it completely on the ground. Not everything is so tough - it is enough to bend the entire bush by at least 1 meter. But, it is clear that this is also difficult to do right away due to the density and thickness of the main branches. You will have to accustom the climbing rose to a bent posture even for several weeks.

How to properly bend climbing rose bushes

• Firstly, do not wait for a stable sub-zero air temperature, at which rose branches become brittle to break without support.
• Secondly, for a gradual and gentle bending of the main branches, use a strong cord that is tied with one end to the top of the branches, and the other end to the bottom of the trunk. Initially, pull it up to the possible bending of the branches without a break, and then, even within one day, gradually shortening it by retying it.
• Thirdly, this process can be strengthened by boards laid on a bush, under the weight of which the rose branches bend down to the angle of inclination we need.

Another thing is the young bushes of climbing roses. It is enough to tie her shoots at a height of one meter with a rope and lay them out in a ring around the bush, followed by their fixation, otherwise they will “disperse”.

It's important to know! To avoid damage to the bent branches, you need to tilt them in the direction of the grafting site, as if “along the wool”.

Sufficiently bent bushes to continue the process of winter sheltering should be fixed with arcs of suitable material, and preferably with plastic flexible pipes that are frost-resistant, suitable for repeated use. Thanks to their flexibility, they can cover the entire protected bush of any size.

Optimal for growing and sheltering for the winter are special support grids that can be hung on special hooks on a wall or on a support pole. Such lattices make it possible to remove them in the fall along with the branches of the bush attached to them and, with precautions for bending the skeletal branches, lay them with the lattice down directly on the soil. First put wooden boards or spruce branches on the soil so that the branches do not touch the ground.

It is important to know that roses of any kind and variety, if possible, will be better bent to the ground, and not cut off.

Rodent protection. Like all plants sheltered for the winter, roses are attacked by rodents fleeing under cover from the cold, where they have a “table and home”. The correct “treat” for them can be burdock thorns, black root, but more reliable is the waterproof poisoned bait “Cyclone”

How and with what to cover roses for the winter?

Finally, the bush is fully prepared for shelter, and all that remains is to wait for dry, cold weather, but not lower than 5 cold degrees C, in order to reduce the humidity of the protected object to a minimum. We emphasize that the indicated temperature is very comfortable for rose bushes, because at it it hardens.

Shelter at warmer degrees can lead, with the advent of seasonal thaws, to an increase in warm humidity and rotting and even death of plants.

Frame shelter roses for the winter

In our time, progress has reached the point that the market will offer you ready-made protective frames for any plants. It is enough to buy in a specialized store or order on the corresponding website with delivery via mail. For those who can and love to do everything with their own hands, there are sure to be available tools to create this simple to manufacture, but very easy to use frame.

It can be made from a thin metal-plastic pipe, very flexible and pliable, from which you can make two cross-connected "studs" of the required height, install them above the plant. Four of its support tubes can be moved apart along the perimeter of the protected bush. It remains to wrap the cloth with an insulating cloth, connect it on the side and tie it on top, dig around the perimeter with earth, lay with objects fixing their weight, preferably stones or bricks.

We remind you once again that the use of sawdust as insulation is strictly prohibited!

If the fabric of the shelter does not allow itself to be tied from above, it is better to make the upper shelter in the form of a conical “blotch”, securely fasten it so that the wind does not rip it off and the snow accumulating from above fails. The greenhouse effect under such a frame is created due to the internal isolated air mass.

Ruberoid, polyethylene film and other synthetic modern insulating materials are used for winter shelter of plants in regions with severe frosty winters.

They are able to protect, with proper shelter, even from severe and prolonged frosts, although they also have a dangerous drawback - they collect water condensate due to the greenhouse effect, which predisposes to decay, and one cannot delay ventilation through the ends during periods of thaw and early spring and a gradual exit roses from a shelter so that they do not get burned in direct sunlight. Even during the first "walks" after opening, roses should be shaded while they adapt.

Winter sheltering roses with spruce branches

Some people use spruce branches as an inexpensive and natural means of covering roses for the winter, under which a wire frame is also needed, which will be a good tool for snow retention and protection from its load. Snow is known to be an excellent insulating material.

Recently, non-woven materials based on glued cellulose fibers have been widely used as both winter and greenhouse shelters. We are talking about lutrasil or spunbond. Lightweight, translucent to light and to some extent air, these materials come in different densities, thin and thicker.

With careful handling, they can last up to five seasons. As a shelter for roses, you should choose a thick spunbond, folded in two layers.

A valuable quality of a non-woven fabric is its ability not to let moisture in from the outside, and internal vapors freely penetrate outside, which eliminates the accumulation of condensate. The covering device not only breathes, but also does not isolate the plant from the light - in the spring you can immediately open the plants that wintered under it without fear of sunburn.

If necessary, several nearby growing bushes can be covered with non-woven materials at once. It is troublesome and responsible only to fix them in case of sharp winds and heavy snowfalls, but this can be done using the same “studs” made of a metal-plastic tube, after sewing them with strong twine before covering them so that the non-woven fabric does not fall through and does not tear, touching the cut branches of the bushes roses.

Even if you, our dear reader, are a novice gardener, then these simple rules will help you take real care of your “pink” pets. There is confidence that the coming winter will be a simple stage of life and growth and will not bring disappointments and mistakes. Good luck!

Blooming roses are the decoration of any garden, and a rich rose garden is the pride of every gardener. Roses are a very hardy shrub, some varieties are able to bloom until frost, continuing to form buds even in late autumn. In order for the plant to be strong and healthy, it is necessary to know and apply certain agricultural practices. Pruning roses for the winter is one of them. The procedure is simple, but it must be done correctly. The flowering of the bush for the next year largely depends on this.

Trimming value and tools

It is necessary to prune roses for the winter, as this affects the quality of the bush in the next season. Those varieties and varieties that go into the winter without shelter do not need. The age of the bush does not affect the solution of the issue, therefore, both adult bushes and young first-year seedlings are processed.

Why shorten rose shoots

Pruning a rose bush in the fall has several important purposes.: increase in winter hardiness, preparation for shelter for the winter, strengthening the immunity of the plant. Under the winter cover, rotting of young, recently appeared shoots may occur. Therefore, all unripened, damaged and dried branches are removed from the bush. In addition, the stems thickening the bush are cut out, and all the rest are shortened to the height of the shelter. When pinching the top of the shoot, the growth point is removed, which stimulates the growth of side shoots. Therefore, the pruning procedure should be started no earlier than the first frost, so that the bush does not grow.

When preparing for winter and pruning, it is important to consider some points. If in the summer period flower shoots with leaves were often cut off from the bush, then the plant hardly had time to accumulate enough nutrients by the winter period.

Bushes growing in a draft and in a shaded place will be weakened. If, after the establishment of frosty weather, a thaw suddenly comes, the bush begins to grow and consume the supply of carbohydrates that it has accumulated for wintering. Returning frosts can destroy such plants.

Health effects of the rose

Autumn pruning promotes better growth and development of the rose bush. Mineral substances, getting into the plant, are evenly distributed over all its parts. Removing old and diseased shoots helps to maintain the good health of the rose. Ignoring the procedure will not affect only wild varieties, and cultivars lose their attractiveness after 2-3 years and begin to hurt.

When to cover grapes in autumn and winter

The main pruning tools are a pruner and a small saw. The stem on the cut must be even, in no case should the edges of the shoot be torn or crushed with blunt tools. Therefore, the cutting part of the inventory must be sharp, without rust and notches. Thorns on the stems, especially in large varietal roses, can cause serious injury to the gardener. Take care to protect your hands by preparing long Teflon gloves. All tools must be disinfected before use.

Basic rules for working in the fall

A very serious problem is how to prune roses in the fall. In ground cover varieties, it is enough to remove only broken and damaged shoots. The bushes themselves tolerate winter frosts well. and do not need shelter. In single-blooming roses, buds and flowers are removed, unripened shoots are pinched at the top.

After the onset of regular night frosts (down to -8°C), the metabolism of plants changes: glucose is converted into fats, sugars and proteins, and excess moisture is removed. These processes protect the rose from freezing.

Timing and methods

The lunar calendar will tell you when to prune, but it is best to plan work for the end of October during the waning moon phase. You can correctly cut roses for the winter by studying the issue in theory. The method depends on the variety and size of the plant, shelter options, its age and growth rate:

How to cover roses for the winter in Siberia: preparation for frost

Important little things

For pruning and shelter choose a calm and dry day. Best if the sun is shining. The procedure involves following a few simple rules:

Features of different varieties

Whether it is necessary to prune roses for the winter, each gardener decides for himself. Modern breeding has created a large number of varieties that differ in physiological processes. Depending on the cultivar, it is necessary to choose the correct method for removing shoots:

Roses are an original and beautiful decoration of any garden, flower bed, flower bed. Their bright, lush flowering pleases the eye almost all summer. However, in order for abundant flowering to be preserved for the next season, the plant should be pruned in the autumn. What varieties need mandatory autumn pruning and how to properly carry out the procedure, let's figure it out.

Is it necessary to prune roses for the winter?

The need for autumn pruning of roses will depend on the variety of the plant, as well as on the main growing goals. Usually the main task of pruning is the formation of a compact, small bush that would easily hide in the winter. In addition, pruning allows you to improve the culture, prepare it for the next flowering season, and increase its frost resistance.

• Autumn pruning has a number of advantages:
• young and strong processes begin to actively grow;
• the growth of the root system is activated, and as a result, the entire bush;
• more young buds are formed on the culture;
• more valuable substances accumulate in the plant;
• after properly pruning, the culture becomes less susceptible to infectious diseases.

Most varieties of roses lend themselves to autumn pruning, but there are those for which the procedure is not necessary. This applies to frost-resistant species that do not need shelter:

• bush or park;
• hybrid;
• ground cover.

Such varieties bloom only once during the summer season, so they do not require pruning in the fall.

Did you know? The aroma of a garden or room rose is considered the strongest antidepressant. People who regularly inhale rose fragrance are less stressed and depressed. Moreover, they become more calm and balanced.

When is the best time to do it

Cut roses in autumn should be carried out during the onset of the first night frosts, that is, when the temperature drops below zero only at night. It should not be delayed with pruning until stable frosts appear, when the temperature indicators are consistently at a minus mark day and night.
As a rule, plant pruning activities are carried out from mid-October to early November. To do this, pre-sharpen and disinfect the appropriate tools. However, more accurate dates will depend on the climatic conditions of the region where the flower grows.

Preparation for the procedure

Immediately before carrying out rose pruning activities, special tools should be prepared:

• sharply ground garden pruner for cutting branches. A blunt tool can damage the bark of a plant by forming a torn cut. Such sections do not heal well, and also become a source of infection;
• a hacksaw, which will be needed to remove old, coarsened branches;
• garden pitch, which is required for cutting sections. It allows you to protect the resulting wound from the penetration of bacteria and infections.

To prevent infection of the flower with fungi and infectious diseases, it is recommended that all tools used be disinfected by soaking them in a solution of potassium permanganate.

Basic pruning rules

In order for the measures for cutting roses to bring only a positive result, you should follow a few simple rules during the procedure:

When pruning branches, it is imperative to remove unripened shoots, because under cover they will begin to rot, which can provoke the death of the entire bush.

Video: Autumn pruning of roses

Rose pruning technology for the winter

The technology for pruning roses for the winter will depend on the variety of the plant, its branching and height. There are several methods of pruning branches, but most often gardeners practice several of them.

Classic way

The classic shoot removal method is suitable for those varieties of roses that are characterized by strong growth, as well as for young plants or old crops in need of rejuvenation.

Classic pruning consists of the following steps:

• only healthy, strong branches up to 15 cm long should be left on the rose bush;
• all dead and dried shoots should be cut to the base, while the cut should be light, not brown;
• thin stems, root shoots are also completely amenable to removal.

Such a sufficiently deep pruning will rejuvenate the plant, increase its resistance to frost, and bring denser, stronger and stronger buds in the spring.

Important! Classic pruning is not used for park, hybrid and ground cover crops.

In most cases, in the fall, for all varieties of roses, sanitary pruning is carried out, which consists of:

• in the removal of all green, not fully formed shoots. This is done so that they do not start to rot in the winter under cover and thus do not destroy the entire bush;
• in cutting off all broken, diseased, withered, damaged branches;
• in cutting out all old, stiff shoots, while all remaining branches should be shortened to white healthy tissue.

After the bush is cut, all the greenery must be burned so that it does not become a breeding ground for infections. The soil under the plant should be slightly loosened, shed with a solution of copper sulfate.

Trimming climbing and ground cover bushes

Since climbing and ground cover roses are especially sensitive to pruning, such a procedure should be carried out very carefully, almost imperceptibly.

For ground covers, only sanitary removal of shoots is allowed., during which rotten, withered, old, diseased shoots that are useless for the plant are cut off.
The depth of pruning of climbing crops will depend on the size of the bush. Plants with few flowers do not lend themselves to pruning at all. Instead of removing the branches, it is allowed to pinch the upper bud, the so-called point of development. In bushes with numerous flowers, it is recommended to cut branches by 1/3 of their length, while completely removing weak and diseased shoots.

Did you know? Japanese breeders have developed one of the most beautiful varieties of roses in the world with unusual colors. In the daytime, the petals delight with bright red tints, and in the evening they take on a dazzling snow-white color.

Care for roses after pruning

Pruning is not the only autumn event that needs to be done before wintering roses. In order for the bush to please with violent flowering and excellent health in the spring, you should provide the plant with quality care:

The mandatory autumn events for preparing roses for the winter season also include:

1. Application of fertilizers. Experts recommend feeding each bush using products based on phosphorus and potassium, which contribute to the formation and better maturation of new shoots.
2. Pinching shoots and buds that have faded. At the end of September, faded buds should be removed and young shoots should be pinched.
3. Hilling bushes. In early autumn, it is recommended to hill the crop, which will protect the plant in severe frosts. Hilling is carried out to a height of 7–10 cm, and peat or compost is used as the material.
4. Shelter. The final step in preparing roses for wintering is their shelter. To do this, it is necessary to build a frame using improvised materials: wooden bars, steel bars. From above, the frame must be covered with waterproof material, while leaving special ventilation holes so that the plant can "breathe". The entire structure should be wrapped with synthetic rope for strength.

Important! You need to cover the culture on a dry day so that the ground under the bush is not wet.

Compliance with all the rules for caring for roses in the autumn guarantees every grower a beautiful, blooming and fragrant rose garden for the next year. Do not skip any of the stages, in particular, pruning, which prepares the plant for the spring season, allows it to easily and painlessly survive the winter cold.

Many flower growers have beautiful rose bushes in stock. They delight with their magnificent buds from June to October. In this article, we will discuss the correct autumn pruning and sheltering roses for the winter.

What roses are insulated for the winter season?

Not all types of these flowers need shelter, but still Bourbon, Chinese and tea varieties should be warmed.

Special garden varieties of roses, bred by breeders, are designed to bloom continuously from early summer to mid-winter. In this regard, their shoots are actively developing. In the Central regions of Russia, such species do not have time to adapt to the cold. Therefore, newly bred varieties of roses, even those that are resistant to temperatures below zero, are recommended to be covered. For example, bush - shrabry.

The exception is the wrinkled rose hybrid class, recently bred.

Old and specific types do not need warming. They can tolerate severe frosts. This is due to the fact that they bloom only 1 time, and after that the branches of the plant can prepare for the beginning cold period.

Pruning roses in autumn - timing and methods

All shrubs, with the advent of autumn, are shortened, and rose bushes are no exception. This process helps the flowers prepare for the winter cold and rejuvenates the bush.

Do not rush with pruning and start it in early August. You need to wait for a stable minus temperature at night (-5 degrees), after which you can start pruning. If you do not take this advice, there is a possibility that the buds will begin to bloom.

It is necessary to start pruning on a sunny day when there will be no precipitation - mid-October to mid-November. Dates vary depending on the region of Russia and air temperature.

Trimming methods:

• Long cut. Up to 12 buds remain on the branch. This method works well when most of the buds are at the top of the branch. Usually such shrubs are not pruned or only the tops are shortened;
• Short cut. A rarely used method, this is due to the fact that after such a strong pruning, the bushes weaken and may not withstand winter frosts;
• Medium cut. A more popular pruning method and is suitable for those flower growers who do not know the varieties of roses they have. Half of the branches are removed, only those with a length of about 30 centimeters remain. There should be no more than seven buds on the branch.

When rejuvenating a bush, you need to eliminate:

1. Old shoots over three years old;
2. Dry leaves, flowers and shoots growing inside the bush;
3. Too young branches and white shoots. They will not be able to survive the cold, but only contribute to the development of diseases.

Basic trim conditions:

• All tools must be sharpened;
• Removing dried branches is done with a small file;
• Sections are made above the kidneys, at an angle. This is necessary for moisture to drain.
• It is necessary to eliminate the branches to a strong part;
• During operation, the weather must be dry and calm.

How to cover rose bushes for the winter

After the elimination of the dry foliage of roses and the complete drying of the sawn and cut places, the rest period begins. It is during this period that you can begin to build a protective coating of rose bushes for the winter.

Own-rooted plants can withstand air temperatures down to -3 degrees, and those grafted onto wild rose - up to -12.

Shelter of roses in Siberia

Siberia is a region where the weather can be warm even at the end of autumn. Therefore, you need to follow the weather forecasts, so as not to harm the early shelter, which will entail the debate of the plant.

• If the bushes are young and recently planted, they can be covered with 5-liter bottles with a cut-out bottom, and covered with foliage on top. The lids from the bottles must be removed so that the plant does not rot.
• Adult, short-cut bushes are sprinkled with earth and also sprinkled with dry leaves. Siberia is famous for its winters, abundant with snow, so the main task will be to save the roses until the first snowfall. Further, the plant will be covered with snow and will winter well even in severe frosts.

Shelter of roses in the Moscow region and the middle lane

For residents of these regions of Russia, it is advisable to prepare roses for wintering in November 1-20. As already mentioned in the article, the day should be dry and clear, the temperature should be from -5 to -7 degrees.

Floribunda, varieties of hybrid tea and polyanthus roses need to be covered by spreading spruce branches under the bushes, and then bent to the ground. Plants are fixed with wooden or metal clothespins. Such rose bushes have brittle, stiff shoots, so it will be difficult to bend them to the ground.

The bush needs to be spudded 40 centimeters above the soil, not only with earth, but also with humus, compost and peat. Top cover with foliage or spruce branches. You can also build an arched support and cover it with a protective material.

Some types of roses are very resistant to frost and do not require cover for the winter. These are the majority of park species and their hybrids, as they have dense foliage and reach a height of 1.5 meters. They don't need shelter. The video shows in detail how the autumn pruning of roses and shelter for the winter takes place.

If there are park species that do not tolerate frost, they are highly spudded and wrapped in paper.

How to cover roses in the Urals?

When the temperature drops to -5 degrees, you can do the warming of roses. This happens on October 14-15, it’s good if the first snow falls by this time. Foliage, debris from the roots and immature branches are eliminated from the roots.

For single and short-cut bushes, wooden boxes are suitable as shelter. From above they are covered with polyethylene, the edges of which are fixed with bricks. Several holes are made to provide ventilation.

During an extremely harsh winter, the bushes can be covered with boards or plywood in the form of a house. Its height is 10 cm higher than the bush itself. After that, cover the house with foil. They also do it when the bushes occupy a large area, and do not grow singly.

The choice of covering material.

A small number of flower growers have an idea about the correct choice of covering material and most often use what is at hand. Some buy material and make protection with their own hands. Most often used for cover:

• cellophane film;
• pine or spruce branches;
• dried leaves;
• burlap or rags;
• obsolete blankets or raincoats;
• geotextile;
• lutrasil;
• spandbond.

The choice of material depends on the method.

In conclusion, I would like to say that you can safely use the advice of the article presented above and the beauties - roses will successfully overwinter, even in the most severe frosts. And in the summer they will delight their owners with beautiful buds and an exquisite aroma.