New technologies for building a house with foam. How to build a foam house yourself - step by step instructions

Polyfoam is considered to be one of the best materials in terms of thermal insulation. At the same time, relative cheapness makes more and more people insulate their premises in this way. However, there are other options for using this material.

Styrofoam tolerates temperature changes well and is completely impervious to steam.

One of the relatively new and original options is the construction of a foam house. Some will laugh, thinking that this is an ordinary dollhouse or just a mock-up. But in fact, everything is much more serious here.

Styrofoam houses were first built in Japan. It was there that experts revealed the main properties of such a material, which make it possible to use it not only as an auxiliary tool, but also as the main material. So, let's take a closer look at the main properties of houses made of foam sheets.

High thermal insulation. As a rule, a house built of foam plastic will be warm enough even when there is no heating in it. This is facilitated by the special structure of the material, which perfectly retains heat. And if you still heat the house a little from the inside, then even a slight cold can be completely forgotten.
Strength. Oddly enough, the foam has sufficient characteristics to ensure the strength of even such a complex structure as a house. But this is possible only if the sheet mounting technology is correct.
Relative fire safety. If you choose high quality sheets for work, then you will not need to be afraid that the house can easily burn down. In addition, for additional protection today there is a large selection of special tools that will create a protective layer on the surface from fire.
High degree of resistance to fungus, mold and insects. Styrofoam is a man-made material. And this suggests that for insects, especially such as bark beetles or termites, it is absolutely not interesting. The same goes for fungus. Due to the fact that the foam plastic almost does not allow moisture and steam to pass through, there is almost no chance of getting a fungus or mold on its surface.
Environmental Safety. Styrofoam itself is safe for health. But at high temperatures, it can still emit a certain amount of harmful substances, like any other modern building material. But if you do everything right, then they will be reduced to a minimum.
financial economy. The material is inexpensive compared to other, more serious materials for the construction of buildings and structures. Therefore, even with a large flow rate, you will save a lot of money on installation. In addition, construction does not require heavy lifting equipment, and this is an additional cost savings.

As a result, we can conclude that the construction of foam is very profitable. Of course, it is unlikely that you will be able to independently and quickly build a permanent large residential building from this material. But making a small room in a couple of rooms will not be difficult and investing.

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Necessary tools and foundation preparation

And now let's consider the process itself, how you can build such a foam house with your own hands.

Figure 1. To create a foundation, it is necessary to lay the bars clearly around the entire perimeter, the rest of the area is laid with boards of the same thickness.

In the example, we will tell you how to build a small building with a ceiling height of about 3 meters and a total area of approximately 5-10 square meters. You will need the following materials and tools:

Styrofoam;
solution;
pencil and ruler;
self-tapping screws and dowels;
mounting foam or glue;
level.

It all starts, as always, with the foundation. You can make the most ordinary strip foundation - as you prefer. After all, more here depends on the type of soil in the selected area. When the foundation is filled, you need to supplement it. To do this, take the corresponding sizes of supporting wooden blocks with a section of about 6 by 5 cm. They must be laid clearly around the entire perimeter of the foundation. The rest of the area is laid with boards of the same thickness (Figure 1). Before work, do not forget to treat the wood with compounds that protect against fungus, fire and dampness.

Figure 2. The frame of the arch is made of special curly blocks.

The bar is attached to the anchor to the foundation. But you can slightly optimize the fastening using mounting foam as an auxiliary material. But do not take extra type foam so that it does not expand much. During work, check everything with a building level.

Next, you need to finish the side walls of the foundation, which protrude above the ground. This is best done with a decorative thick stone. It is planted on an ordinary cement mortar, knocked out with a hammer for reliable fixation.

The final step will be laying on the surface of the film for moisture insulation and ordinary bricks or paving slabs. Brick (tile) is optional, but desirable, as it increases the reliability of the foundation, protecting it from subsidence. When everything is dry and set, you can start the main work.

Expanded polystyrene blocks are a material that combines strength, sound insulation, thermal insulation and speed of construction. That is why the technology of construction with fixed formwork is gaining great popularity. In this article, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with this material in more detail, and you can also learn how to build a house from polystyrene foam with your own hands.

Expanded polystyrene blocks, or rather a house built from them, has a number of positive aspects. Considering them, many decide to build a house from this material:

Compared with traditional technologies, construction time and labor costs are reduced by up to two times. Accordingly, the cost of the structure is reduced by up to 30%.
Without much difficulty, you can build a house of any configuration.
Significantly felt savings on heating in winter and air conditioning in summer. Unlike the same houses built of brick, it is 3 times more economical.
By reducing the thickness of the walls, there is more usable area. At the same time, heat-insulating and sound-proofing qualities are not lost.
During construction, it is not necessary to build a powerful foundation, since walls made of fixed formwork create a specific load.
Thanks to the monolithic wall, which has a rigid frame-and-power structure, there will be no cracks after finishing the internal and external walls.
The fire resistance of the wall reaches up to 2.5 hours.
If we talk about the price, unlike bricks, polystyrene foam blocks are 1.5 times cheaper.
Also, savings are achieved due to the fact that there is no need to rent special equipment.

The building process is reminiscent of a children's Lego game. Therefore, if you wish and have the basic skills, all the work can be done independently.

On forums and other building portals, you can find a lot of discussion about how environmentally friendly and long-term such construction is. If to be objective and trust the hygienic certificates of this material, then the safety of this polymer is fully confirmed. For example, there are already real facts that people who have lived in a house for more than 5 years do not feel any deterioration in health and any discomfort.

If we talk about fire safety, then expanded polystyrene does not go beyond existing standards. So, it belongs to the category of flame-retardant and low-combustible materials G1 and B1. However, the minus concerns smoke generation. The level of this indicator is high - D3.

As for hygiene, you can find all the necessary information in the certificate, which contains the data of polystyrene foam boards (fully corresponds to the material of the fixed formwork).

Hazardous substances such as formaldehyde and styrene are contained within reason.

The only place where questions may arise is the scope. Blocks from the inside must be further processed. Putting a layer of putty on them and painting is not enough. So, for lining the inside of the walls, it is recommended to use fire-resistant drywall or glass-magnesite sheets. On top of this material, it is already possible to carry out finishing.

In the event of a fire, fire-resistant drywall will allow you to leave the room in time until the polystyrene foam begins to emit toxic gases.

According to studies, expanded polystyrene is less dangerous, in terms of protection from direct contact with fire, than chipboard furniture, linoleum, curtains, laminate and other finishing materials.

As for the decoration of the facade of the house, the material also needs to be processed. Otherwise, under the influence of sunlight, it will collapse. Therefore, one should not delay finishing work, especially with finishing the facade of the building, after construction is completed.

Walls built using the fixed formwork technology of polystyrene foam blocks have the following characteristics:

In the bearing wall, the block has such dimensions 1200 × 250 × 250 mm. So, 100 mm of thickness is expanded polystyrene on the outside and inside, as well as concrete filled between it with a thickness of 150 mm.
A block with a size of 1200 × 250 × 300 mm is also used. Here 100 mm on the outside and 50 mm on the inside. Concrete is also poured with a thickness of 150 mm.
A built wall without finishing (internal / external) is 280–300 kg / m 2.
The level of thermal conductivity ranges from 0.036–0.045 W/mK.
Degree of acoustic insulation up to 49 dB.

As for the construction technology itself, the following points should be taken into account:

In the process of laying the foundation, it is necessary to lay vertical rods in it, which will serve as a connection with the wall.
The height of the reinforcement outlet must be at least 3 rows.
When laying the first row, it is necessary to perform waterproofing. Otherwise, moisture will penetrate into the concrete, and this will affect the thermal insulation properties of the wall. For the manufacture of waterproofing, it is necessary to use compounds that do not dissolve polystyrene foam.
To continue the vertical reinforcement cage, reinforcement is laid inside the rows in the vertical direction.
The concreting process is carried out every 3 rows. Once the concrete has set, construction can continue.
To organize window and door openings, special jumpers and plugs are used. Their use will prevent the spreading of concrete during its pouring. Reinforcement must be laid in the opening in 2 layers. A spacer is also installed from below.

For finishing polystyrene walls, an adhesive mixture is used, which has the necessary adhesion to the polymer surface. It is also recommended to use a mesh with small cells when applying the starting layer. Also, for finishing, you can use drywall or glass magnesite.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main stages of building a house from expanded polystyrene.

First of all, a strip foundation is laid. A horizontal deviation of no more than 10 mm is allowed.
Vertical reinforcement pins are laid in the foundation, which should look out to the height of three rows.
When the foundation is ready, the surface is cleared of construction debris.
Next, the markings of future walls are applied. You can use a chokeline for this.
You should also make sure that polystyrene blocks are prepared along the perimeter of the building at a distance of up to 2.5 m. Their close location will allow laying walls without distractions.

The construction process begins with the formation of a corner. To do this, lay the block so that the connecting grooves are directed upwards to connect with the next row. Waterproof the base first. It will protect the concrete from moisture penetration. When laying, be sure to check the wall for vertical evenness. Also make sure that the blocks fit strictly along the intended line.

If it is necessary to cut the block, then this can be done in special recesses. Otherwise, it may lose its strength. Moreover, if you make the cut incorrectly, then you will not be able to connect the blocks together.

An important stage in the construction of a house from polystyrene foam blocks is reinforcement. For this, reinforcement is used, which should be located vertically. It is inserted into the special grooves of the jumpers of the block. The first 3 rows are inserted into the reinforcement, which sticks out of the foundation around the entire perimeter. To organize the ligation between each other, subsequent segments of the reinforcement are connected with a knitting wire. So, the process continues until the last row.

Particular attention is paid to the construction of openings for the installation of windows and doors:

According to the project, designate the location of doors and windows.
Next, cut the blocks, forming the necessary opening.
From boards 40 × 150 mm you make a box for windows and doors. Install them in the openings.
After that, fix the box around the perimeter with a board 25 × 150 mm.
It is also necessary to leave a hole at the bottom of the box opening, which will make sure that the concrete passes through.
As for the jumpers, special blocks are used here, in which the reinforcement is laid horizontally to reinforce the structure.
If it is necessary to make an opening of an arched shape, then the blocks are cut out according to the template of the desired handicap, and the formwork is made of plywood.

Angular, right and left blocks are used to form corners. They allow you to lay blocks with offset vertical joints. As for the alignment of the laying of blocks in relation to the previous one, at least 400 mm is allowed on each row.

When building houses from expanded polystyrene, it is not allowed to place vertical seams on top of each other.

There is also a reinforcement process, as already mentioned in this article. When you have laid the first 4 rows, you need to mount the scaffolding. For this, mortgages in the wall should be provided in advance. As for the last row of each floor, the blocks should be connected to subsequent rows vertically with knitting wire.

After laying 3-4 rows, it is necessary to strengthen the wall. To do this, the gap between the posts should be up to 2 m. Next, screw the vertical posts of the leveling system with self-tapping screws to the jumper of the blocks. Fix the rack to the concrete base with dowels in a vertical position. Using a nut and bolt, connect the clamp to the top rack. The heel of the clamp is fixed in concrete or soil. A mandatory requirement is to use a level to install the rack vertically.

There are special requirements for concrete. The minimum compressive strength concrete class is B15. As for the filler, its fraction should be from 5 to 15 mm. Mixture cone draft up to 150 mm. Immediately before placing concrete, it is necessary to level the system by turning the knobs. The concrete itself is laid in several ways:

Faucet with bucket.
pump.
Conveyor.
From the dump truck directly through the tray.

According to the degree of filling the inside of the block with concrete, it must be compacted. For this, the method of internal / external vibration or bayonet is used.

When arranging the roof, an anchor beam or Mauerlat is fixed along the top of the wall with special studs. Gables, in turn, are formed by cutting the block at the desired angle. The interior is filled with concrete. Planks are fixed on both sides of the pediment, and a sheet of plywood on top. This will keep the concrete from flowing out. When the concrete has dried, the fasteners are dismantled.

If it is necessary to carry out a T-shaped junction of walls, then this can be done with standard blocks. Special blocks are used to perform a 90–180° turn.

Finishing work

After the concrete has acquired sufficient strength, you can start finishing work. First of all, communications such as electrical wiring are laid. Using a thermal knife, you can easily make channels into which wires will be laid. As for fastening the junction boxes, this is done directly to the concrete wall with dowels. For laying a pipeline, it is allowed to carry pipes Ø38 mm in the wall, but no more.

When all communications are carried out, you can start finishing work. Walls located below the level of the wall are covered with a layer of waterproofing. As for the walls above the wall level, they are treated with special mixtures that have good adhesion to the surface of the expanded polystyrene, using a fiberglass mesh. You can also install drywall and use other finishing materials.

So, we have considered with you the intricacies of building the walls of a house from polystyrene foam blocks. If you have experience in such construction, then write your comments at the end of this article. This will help beginners to cope with this difficult task.

Video

You will learn more about how to build a house from expanded polystyrene by watching the video:

Recently, more and more often you can hear talk about the so-called thermal house. It may seem like a made-up term from some science fiction novel, but in reality, everything is much simpler. A thermal house is a house built from polystyrene foam. This construction technology is also called fixed formwork.

In this article, we will talk about how to build a house from polystyrene foam with your own hands.

Characteristics of foam blocks

These blocks are hollow boxes. Their dimensions are standard (95x25x25 cm), but for the construction of internal walls, products of a slightly smaller width are used - 95x13x25 cm.

Note! Expanded polystyrene blocks are produced according to the technology of industrial conveyor production. During a work shift, the production line produces about one hundred and twenty blocks.

The advantages of building materials include:

ease of processing and installation;
resistance to permanent moisture;
light weight;
excellent soundproofing characteristics;
high-quality thermal insulation due to the multilayer structure;
resistance to decay and fungus.

It is also worth noting that the foam refers to "breathable" materials, that is, to those that allow air to pass through.

But there are also disadvantages that must be taken into account even before construction begins.

Foam blocks do not withstand temperatures above 90 ° C.
The strength of the foam is just an illusion, in fact, it can easily be pierced with a finger. In this regard, the walls will have to be puttied.
The material is highly flammable.

The cost of one such block is approximately 300 rubles, which is relatively inexpensive. Consider the cost of building a polystyrene foam house in comparison with a brick one. So, a thermal house is a structure that is already ready for final finishing, which can be covered with both plaster or paint, and siding. At the same time, a brick house needs putty and thermal insulation (with the same foam), which, of course, increases construction costs.

In a word, a thermal house is an inexpensive pleasure, because it already includes both finishing and insulation. Moreover, according to GOST, the height of such a house can reach 15 m, which is equivalent to 5-6 floors.

About the environmental friendliness of the material

Most people are sure that polystyrene, like any other "chemistry", is unsafe or even harmful to health. So far, this fact has not been confirmed, but not refuted either. It should be noted that there are a number of requirements, in particular sanitary and GOST, which the manufactured products fully comply with.

But some people are difficult to convince even of obvious things, which is most likely due to a psychological factor. And even the fact that polystyrene is widely used in insulation and interior decoration, as well as in the manufacture of disposable tableware, for some reason is not a weighty argument in this case.

Foam house: building instructions

Having dealt with the strengths and weaknesses of the material, you can proceed with the installation. But first you need to prepare everything you need.

Stage 1. Tools, materials

The work will require:

foam blocks;
finishing material;
sand;
wires, pipes;
metal fittings o12 mm;
steel wire for bonding;
cement of the "six hundredth" brand;
water;
crushed stone;
concrete mixer.

Stage 2. Foundation

Building a house starts with the foundation. The best option is an ordinary strip foundation, although it all depends on the characteristics of the soil in the selected region.

After pouring, the base is supplemented with a support. To do this, wooden bars measuring 50x60 mm are laid around the entire perimeter of the foundation. The entire remaining area must be laid with boards of the same thickness.

Note! After laying, the tree is treated with flame retardant and antiseptic.

Stage 3. Assembly of the structure

The erection of a thermal house is similar to the assembly of a designer - the blocks are joined groove to groove, shifted with reinforcement and assembled into walls.

Step 1. The foam blocks are prepared for installation: they are cleaned, leveled and dried thoroughly.

Step 3 A concrete solution is being prepared. To do this, cement, crushed stone and sand are poured into a concrete mixer in a ratio of 1: 3: 3 and poured with such an amount of water that a liquid mixture is obtained as a result.

Step 4. After driving five rows, a solution is poured into the voids between the layers of blocks. When pouring, it is advisable to tap on the side surface of each block - so the shrinkage of the concrete will be more dense.

Step 5. A part of the wall is assembled from the next five rows of blocks and again filled with mortar. The procedure is repeated until the completion of construction.

Step 6 Sewerage, wiring and other communications are laid directly into the walls of the house, after which it is covered with a roof and the final finishing of the walls is carried out. It is characteristic that the pipeline is recommended to be laid in still hollow walls, while the electrical wiring is supplied through pre-made strobes (there should be no problems with strobe foam).

There are also no restrictions in the choice of roofing material. In fact, a foam house is a monolithic structure that can withstand any load, so even natural tiles can be used for coating.

Note! It is better to start building a thermal house in the warm season at a temperature not lower than -10 ° C.

Foam blocks retain their original properties for a long time. There is even an opinion that a house built from these blocks, under appropriate conditions, can last up to 100 years.

Stage 4. Finishing

As already mentioned, there are practically no restrictions on the internal / external decoration of the walls of a thermal house. In financial terms, it is more profitable to use decorative plaster or ordinary paint, and from the inside to make plasterboard lining.

The thermal house may look different. Below is an instruction for the construction of an arched building of standard sizes: the height of the walls is 3 m, the total area is about 10 m². Of course, such a structure cannot be used as permanent housing.

What will be required in the work

Before starting construction, you need to take care of everything you need. Below is a list of materials:

foam blocks;
building level;
concrete mortar;
mounting foam;
dowels, self-tapping screws;
ruler;
marker.

Construction technology

Step 1. First, the foundation is being built. In this case, there are no differences from the previous version.

Step 2. A beam of 50x60 mm is laid along the entire perimeter of the base, fastening is done by means of anchors. In this case, the design is periodically checked by the level.

Note! To optimize the fastening, you can use any mounting foam, except for the extra class. This is explained simply: this type of foam expands greatly.

Step 3. The side walls of the base, protruding above the ground, are trimmed with decorative stone. The stone is laid on an ordinary concrete mortar and lightly beaten with a hammer.

Step 4. The foundation is covered with a waterproofing layer (plastic film is suitable). A brick can be placed on top of the film to increase the strength of the foundation and protect against subsidence.

Step 5. Next, the foam blocks are prepared. They are cut and glued in accordance with the previously taken measurements. For the frame of the arch, you need to use only curly blocks, and you can take ordinary thick sheets to fill the walls. Mounting foam is used for gluing.

Note! For fixing, you can also use special glue for polystyrene, but mounting foam is spent more economically. The only drawback of the foam is that its expansion must be constantly monitored, otherwise the tightness of the frame may be compromised.

Step 6 Finished foam arches are attached to the base with self-tapping screws and dowels. To do this, holes are made around the entire perimeter of the foundation (with equal pitch), into which high self-tapping screws are installed. Then, holes are made in the lower part of each arch in the appropriate places, after which the arches are mounted on self-tapping screws.

Note! For ease of assembly, dowels can be inserted into the holes in the arches in advance.

Step 7 Arches are additionally fixed. If mounting foam is used, then it fills the gap between the frame and the base with a thin tube. If glue is used, then all work surfaces are lubricated with it even before the arches are mounted.

Step 8. It remains only to repair the cracks between the blocks with concrete mortar and plaster the walls of the house. For further finishing, as already mentioned, you can use any material - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences.

As you can see, building a foam house is not such a complicated procedure. The main thing is to correctly calculate the consumption of building materials and securely fix the blocks on the foundation. By the way, not only blocks can be used in construction.

Finally. Perforated styrofoam panels

For fixed formwork, you can use not only foam blocks, but also large perforated panels, which are interconnected by a reinforcement frame. The panels are attached to the reinforcement with mushroom nuts at the perforation points (such nuts are made from high pressure polyethylene).

The size of each panel is on average 100x300 cm. The gap between the outer and inner plates (5 cm thick each) in it is 15 cm, which is quite enough to build a house of two or three floors. Products are delivered to the construction site piece by piece or ready-made.

Video - Building a house from foam blocks

Many embody creative ideas in a variety of crafts from various materials. Styrofoam is great for this. From it you can create garden figures or decorate the house in the form of pictures, vases, etc.

Styrofoam properties

Before manufacturing from this material, you need to know its characteristics:

Lightweight and easy handling.
Foam figures are easy to put together.
For products made from it, good fixation is needed. If in the garden, then strengthen the figurine with cement.
Styrofoam does not react with cement, gypsum or asphalt.
Styrofoam is almost not affected by ammonia or organic (mineral) acids.
Carefully choose dyes (acetone, dichloroethane and benzene), they can destroy the foam product.

Preparing to create a shape

Crafts made of foam can be voluminous or flat. You need to prepare a piece of foam in advance, a stencil or drawing for a sketch. For the product, you will need putty, as well as screws, tools, glue and various paints.

How to make a beautiful craft with your own hands?

Mushrooms are great garden decor. You can make a voluminous fungus in the center, and around small trees (flower beds). From the foam, cut out the three-dimensional base (leg) of the mushroom. It is better to cut the hat separately, then fix it on the leg with a self-tapping screw (toothpick). Paint with acrylic paint of your choice. Coat dried finished products with oil varnish to protect the material.

The peacock is more difficult to perform, but looks wonderful in the country. A voluminous piece is needed for the body of a bird, and for a peacock's tail - a flat foam. Then the embossed tail is attached to the body. It is necessary to apply putty in three layers, then sand and cover with acrylic varnish.

To create strong figures with volume, you need a foam frame. It is then covered with cement, you can use mounting foam.

Beautiful crafts for the house from foam

Original crafts are made from foam, you can use boxes from a new refrigerator, TV or other household appliances. The packaging material easily turns at the hand of a young master into beautiful snowflakes, colored balls, Christmas trees or animals.

A bouquet can be easily made from a twig base that can be fixed in a plant pot. Fill with artificial flowers.

Foam plastic is convenient for its softness, any detail can be pinned with pins or small skewers.

It is easy to make a ball out of polystyrene foam, glue it with flowers twisted from colored paper, felt, fabric. You can also glue the balls with coffee beans.

Toys

Foam figures attract young craftsmen with ease of execution. Let's conduct a small master class on crafts from foam:

Select a pattern and apply through tracing paper to a piece of foam.
Carefully cut out the figure along the contour with a clerical knife.
Paint with paints, then varnish for protection.
For decoration, you can fix beautiful elements (ribbons, beads, snowflakes, flowers, etc.).

The wish board is a popular product for kids. You can use the box from the packaging for the picture, board. You can use the decoupage technique, or apply the original drawing. We paint the picture with paints, the frame can be decorated with flagella, etc.

For a picture, you can cut out a round sun, paint it with yellow paint. Clouds, boat cut out separately, paint and attach to the board.

Styrofoam decorative plate

Let's analyze an interesting idea and instructions for making crafts. For example, to decorate a beautiful plate you need:

scissors;
PVA glue,
varnish with a brush;
beautiful napkin with a pattern (pattern);
acrylic paints;
foam plate.

Stages of work:

From the selected napkin, cut out a pattern. In order not to deform the pattern, PVA glue must be applied to the napkin, and not to the plate. Then glue the pattern to the plate.
With acrylic paints, paint the edges of the plate with a wide brush. When the paints dry, you can cover the plate with clear varnish on top.
The product is ready, you can decorate the veranda in a country house or put it on a shelf in the nursery to demonstrate the talents of the child.

Knowing what kind of foam is needed for crafts, when buying any equipment, you do not need to throw away the packaging. It is better to leave it until your child comes up with a brilliant idea for the realization of a toy or other craft.

Photo of foam crafts

The construction of structures from 35th density polystyrene foam, or how I built a domed house with my own hands using Japanese technology....

Let's build a round house.

And we will live differently.

And the windows, the roof - everything in it,

we call it something else...

Everything is real, affordable and practical. The technology of low-budget construction is a reality. Therefore, checking what you have read in practice, keep firmly on the ground so as not to fall into the sky from surprise ...

(To all inveterate "cubo-fundamentalists" and "invaders" of construction forums who have not implemented a single project in practice, "buy and sell" who want to get ready-made design solutions and calculations for free, "wise men" who like to flood in the technology segment , technical characteristics, standards, scope, safety, ecology, etc., while keeping silent about the "issue price" when comparing, please: do not strain. [email protected])

elements on site

And so let's start in order. I will write about the construction of the dome and the house itself later (because the foundation for the house is not ready, all communications are being laid now, etc.). I will start a photo report with a description from the erection of a tent element (tent type) over an autonomous basement. Size 3m in width X 4m in length (along the foundation), height along the ridge-3m, floor area-12m2, wall thickness-180mm The material of construction is 35 density polystyrene foam.

This is how the elements of the house look like (dome and tent elements disassembled at the construction site):

The elements are voluminous, but quite overall and quite light. All elements have an abbreviation with the designation of a serial number, name, purpose, row number, position, etc., it is not problematic to figure out what's what.

And so, on the prepared foundation (in my case, the foundation is the upper part of the basement of the basement about construction, technology, the insulation of which I will not write, this is not relevant to the topic) with zero removed, we fasten the wooden beam to the foundation with anchors, 50mmX60mm in size, bring it under the level and sit on mounting foam.

We will attach the elements of the first (bottom row) of the tent to the beam, that is, the vault (wall), the beam will serve as a spike to the groove of the element. or two walls at once ... I decided to mount the arch from all the elements and use it as a template (setting it level on the foundation) and adjust everything under it - all subsequent elements of the rows.

All elements are glued together with mounting foam or polystyrene mounting adhesive and fastened with brackets (the foam can bulge out during expansion and break the structure), the brackets are made of steel wire. After 20 minutes, when all the elements are stuck together and the foam has dried, remove the brackets (you can immediately cut off the foam or glue on all seams) and begin installation on the foundation.

We plant the structure (arch) on the beam after gluing it with glue or mounting foam and fix it with self-tapping screws using dowels with hats (for foam plastic).

We glue all the elements with mounting glue or foam thoroughly, especially the middle and the inner seam, the outer one is not necessary (you have to cut it out to fill it with acrylic sealant or any acrylic-based waterproof mass for outdoor work - according to your desire and wallet).

When the tent is ready, assemble the window and door elements (they come in the kit - one at a time) as well as the pediments (you can make the pediments yourself from brick, foam block, wood, in my case, polystyrene foam). You can mount windows and a door at will - or on the pediment, or on the sphere.

When you have decided "where and how", cut out the openings and mount the door and window elements.

I cut the openings with a jigsaw and a narrow garden saw.

After you mount the gables. When the design is ready, put everything in order: cut off excess foam or glue at the seams, clean up all the irregularities (differences) at the joints of the elements with a foam plastic grater or abrasive mesh No. 40, No. 60 and prepare all external seams and joints for sealing with acrylic sealant (the main thing is to get in good weather, if it rains, everything will be washed away, both your time and your money, and therefore, after 12-18 hours of laying the sealant, I recommend walking along the seams with CM-11 ceresite).

After sealing the structure, we install doors, windows, install electrical wiring and ventilation. (By the way, we mount the doors on a wooden or metal frame). Next, we prepare the structure for reinforcement with CM-11 ceresite (this is in my case, then the finish will be artificial stone) using a facade mesh (sickle) with a density of 145 g / m for the outside and a density of 125 g / m for finishing inside. For finishing for painting, the mesh is laid on putty (start-finish) for exterior-interior work, there are many options.

The consumption is not large. (I have a ribbed design specifically for PPU - polyurethane foam coating, but since PPU has its drawbacks, all the ribbing was sanded. And so all the elements of the sphere are smooth on both sides.)

Finishing (reinforcement) is done first inside, then outside.

I decided to make the exterior decoration (decor) with an artificial stone of the tanvald series (fortunately, polyurethane forms remained, I make the stone myself, the technology is the simplest: flour (granite dust), cement, perflix (it has a low weight, glue, fiber ...), liquid glass , plasticizer and iron oxide pigment (for example, yellow, brown) - all of course in proportions.

Since I decided to finish the roof with stone, we installed support strips (bar 40x60)

Elements (external) basement ventilation:

Finishing gables and roof:

The roof and arches are finished with artificial stone of the "dolomite" series, the pediments - "tanvald". After laying the pebbles, the supporting wooden blocks are dismantled (you can’t leave them, they can pull, since the tree has a different voltage under loads, both atmospheric and mechanical). You can also make a support out of expanded polystyrene (wall), 3 or 5 cm is enough (after sawing a groove and gluing it to mounting glue), you can leave it as a shoulder (edging) of the roof, if necessary (as an option), you can from dozens to make a roof slope (to drain water, but icicles can form in winter), spreading it under 45 degrees ...

Coating options (composite materials) may be different. In this variant, "aquastop" (waterproofing) was used without coloring the coating.

For protection, I am still deciding: either applying polyurethane foam with painting, or flexible tiles.

And for an amateur (additional waterproofing). On the external reinforcement (after drying) I apply a layer of 1 mm of such glue and after drying I glue the pebbles.

For waterproofing the dome for painting, there is another option, for example "AQUASTOP", but I will write about it when processing the sphere at home ....

I plan to get such a cheerful cellar in the end.

In summary: let's sum up the first results.

Assembling the structure, two people are involved, the work time is 6 hours;

Sealing, one person involved, work time - 3 hours;

Reinforcement inside and outside, one person is involved for 6 hours.

Protective coating (roof):

And so, I settled on a protective coating of flexible tiles. I had to turn away from the stone due to the complexity of mounting on the dome (the dome of the house, the height to the "horse" is -8 meters). basement and domed house with one composite material (roof texture).

Issue price: $10 per square meter.

(I do not indicate the cost of work due to independent execution by 70%).