In the days of the Soviet Union, it was cast-iron pipes that were used for the manufacture of sewers. They have many advantages, such as long service life and high reliability. However, at the same time, they do not have flexibility, which is why they are overgrown with plaque from the inside, and are also susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, in our time, products made of polymeric materials are increasingly used. But, despite this, cast-iron pipelines still remain in most houses, because most buildings were built several decades ago. Therefore, gradually people begin to independently replace the failed sections. At the same time, they are faced with the fact that the pipes are minted. You should study the question of how to mint a pipe with your own hands.

To emboss a cast-iron pipe, people usually invite a professional. However, such work can be done by hand. At the same time, it is very important to act carefully.

The caulking of pipes is the separation of the elements of the sewer pipeline. This process requires care and accuracy, but it is quite possible to carry it out on your own.

Chasing sewer sockets requires careful preparation. The main stages of this process:

1. First of all, you need to prepare the tools. We are talking about a grinder, a hacksaw, a simple and rubber hammer, a chisel, an adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, pliers, a respirator and a blowtorch.
2. You need to open the valves. This will protect against the flow of fluid through the pipe with which the work is being done.
3. You also need to ask the neighbors not to use the water supply and sewerage. Especially seriously should talk about the use of the toilet. After all, this can lead to the fact that the drains will fall right on your head.
4. You will have to dismantle the toilet, sink, or the system whose sewer part you are going to mint.

Chasing pipes can only be done when you have completed all the stages of preparation for this process. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to cope with this process.

Cutting off an unnecessary pipe section

If you want to repair or replace the sewer or water pipe system, then you need to carry out each step in stages. After all, this process is different in that in case of failure, you can damage the sewer system of your neighbors.

Chasing the toilet outlet is difficult because in order to dismantle this element of plumbing, it will have to be broken. You won't be able to take it off completely.

Before you start caulking the sewer system, you must eliminate the damaged area. In this case, there are several recommendations.

The first stage of chasing a cast-iron sewer:

1. The end pipe is very easy to replace. Here you will not have to do any special work, except for the chasing itself.
2. If you want to replace the central part of the sewer riser, then this will be more difficult. This is where you need to make a cut.
3. For four centimeters from the common pipe, make an incision in a circle. Use a protective mask, goggles and gloves.
4. The unfinished part is carefully finished with a hacksaw. It is not recommended to hit the pipe with a hammer. The fact is that the fragility of the metal is unpredictable, upon impact, instead of a damaged pipe, the necessary part may burst, and in this case the next element will have to be changed.
5. Tie a large piece of rags to the pipe, then put it into it. This is necessary so that foreign objects do not get into the riser.
6. Now they go down some distance from the cut along the damaged element so that 20-30 centimeters remain to the place of caulking, and make a new cut. Carefully remove the cut piece.
7. The hole in the pipe is again closed with rags.

When cutting a pipe, all actions must be done very carefully. Do not cut the product flush, as this increases the danger of work.

It is very convenient to do this work in tandem with a friend. Then one person will be able to hold the element being cut off, and the other to cut.

Methods for caulking pipes and options for its neutralization

Chasing a pipe, that is, connecting its elements, can be done in three ways. However, each of them requires its own specific approach.

Nowadays, in order to connect the elements, it is not at all necessary to mint a pipe. This can be done using a special coupling-adapter. Moreover, with such an element it is possible to connect pipes from various materials, for example, cast iron and plastic.

Chasing pipes can be made from different materials. Various caulking of pipes and ways to eliminate it:

1. It will be easiest to separate the elements if they were minted with a heel. This is a rope that is wound around pipes and rammed. To check if this method has been used, you need to hit the bell several times with a rubber mallet, and then try to loosen it. If the pipe lends itself, then, most likely, it was the cable that was used. In this case, it is necessary to open the top layer of the rope with a screwdriver, find its end and pull it out. Throughout the work, it is necessary to carefully loosen the pipe. Shake it until you can pull out the necessary element. If the cable was covered with cement mortar on top, then it must first be knocked down. To do this, a screwdriver is placed on it at an angle, which taps.
2. In Soviet times, the cable was used infrequently. Sulfur was much more common. In this case, you will have to do quite a dangerous job. For her, you will definitely need to wear a gas mask, because sulfur fumes will be released, which are extremely poisonous. It is also necessary to ventilate the apartment. So, it is necessary to melt the sulfur with a blowtorch so that it acquires a liquid state. When heating, it is periodically necessary to tap the pipe until a noticeable stir appears. When the pipe itself heats up, it will need to be taken with an adjustable wrench and pulled towards you with effort. This will release the required element.

This is how pipes are caulked. It is worth noting that the option with gray is the most dangerous. Therefore, if you do not have a gas mask or a special construction respirator, then it is better not to start at all.

To dismantle the pipe from cast iron correctly, it is necessary to take into account all the rules of caution.

Helpful Hints:

1. Don't work alone. It is not safe. It's best if a friend helps.
2. If the pipes were minted with sulfur, then after removing the necessary element from the system, sulfur residues must be wiped off the pipe.
3. Do not use an iron mallet to chisel pipes. It can lead to the formation of cracks throughout the system. If there is no rubber, then you can use a wooden tool.

Such simple rules will help to produce chasing without trouble.

It is difficult to mint a cast-iron sewer with your own hands, but it is possible. However, keep in mind that even with perfectly correct execution, a non-professional will take several times more time to do this work than a master. Dare!

Add to bookmarks

How to caulk a cast-iron pipe?

Boris Natanovich, Omsk asks a question:

Hello. In my apartment in the toilet, an old cast-iron pipe is leaking under the toilet. I want to solve this problem myself. Therefore, I appeal to those who know and can tell in detail how to mint a cast-iron pipe. How to mint it, I have a rough idea. I've been involved in this type of work before. But how you can mint, I have absolutely no idea. While there is time, I want to do this laborious process. Therefore, I am waiting for various recommendations with different ways of caulking cast iron pipes so that I can start working. Thanks in advance to everyone who will answer my question.

The expert answers:

Before you start chasing cast iron pipes, you need to choose the method that suits you.

The caulking of cast-iron pipes, which accompanies the change of a toilet bowl or a riser, involves caulking a pipe, which is performed as carefully as possible. The slicing procedure is as follows:

How to emboss a cast iron pipe?

1. First of all, the bell at the pipe is tapped with a slight effort of the hammer, trying to exclude its split, so that the riser does not have to be changed completely.
2. Feeling the free movement of the bell and that it can be freed from chasing with a cable, proceed to dismantling:

• loosen the socket in different directions;
• pick up with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
• firmly grasp the rope with pliers;
• without haste, they try to pull out the rope, while continuing to loosen the pipe.

1. If the tapping did not give results, the bell remains motionless, which means that the caulking was done by filling with sulfur. The burning method is used for the latter:

• by means of a burner or a soldering lamp, the cast iron is heated in a circle, trying not to harm the pipe, at the same time they are tapping with a hammer;
• if the bell moves a little from a place, it is loosened in different directions with an adjustable wrench.

1. After the successful release of the bell, it is cleaned using a chisel or chisel. With special care, the socket saddle is cleaned, on which rubber will be put on for sealing.
2. The sealing rubber ring is coated with a special lubricant, and then inserted into the socket.
3. Mount the new element in the seal.

Cast iron pipe caulking technology

When assembling a system represented by cast iron pipes, it is worth deciding in advance on the option of filling voids that necessarily occur during installation between the outer surface on the pipe and inside - on the socket. In other words, you should choose a method of how to mint cast-iron pipes in this case. In practice, two options are used, which we will consider.

Method 1: grouting

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The installation of a resin sealant is carried out: the resin bundle is tamped into the hole of the socket and pipe at 2/3 of the depth. When the first ring of rope is formed, the end of the bundle is overlapped on top of the ring to prevent it from penetrating into the pipe.
2. Pouring cement content.

Cement grade 300-400 is mixed with water in a ratio of 9 to 1. The space free from the tourniquet (1/3 of the volume) in the socket is poured with a cement composition. The solution is minted as tightly as possible by caulking with a hammer until the caulking begins to bounce off the cement sealant. For a better setting of the cement, it is covered with a moistened cloth.

Tip: Broadened chasing and caulking will help increase productivity, which speeds up the procedure by as much as 30%. When performing work in winter, cement is kneaded in hot water, and after sealing the joints with it, mandatory insulation is carried out.

Method 2: embedding with asbestos cement

This procedure has some differences:

• in dry form, asbestos fiber and cement are kneaded, respectively, 1 to 2;
• immediately before use, the dry mixture is poured with water, the latter should be 10-12% of the total volume of the mixture.

The very procedure of chasing is performed by analogy with the first method.

That's all the subtleties of such a laborious process called chasing / chasing. Naturally, the best results in work can be achieved when professionals get down to business. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to specialists. And then you definitely won’t have to redo everything, getting rid of old flaws.

Cast iron pipes are used when laying internal and external sewerage, and sockets are necessary to connect its individual parts. Do-it-yourself caulking of cast-iron pipes is a complex and time-consuming process. Find out how such pipes are joined, and what tools and materials are used.

Installation of an additional compactor by a team of repairmen

Chasing and chasing cast iron pipes

Cast iron is the most durable and most brittle pipe material. That is why the connection of this material must be strong and elastic.

The joint of cast-iron pipes, made by caulking

Freezing, groundwater expands, resulting in a displacement of the soil. As a result, pipes laid underground also move. In order for the joints to remain airtight under any conditions, a “margin of elasticity” is left at the joints. Pipes of external lines are damaged by water hammer and heavy traffic.

Sequence of work

First, the pipe joint is inspected to determine how they were connected. A gas cutter or a grinder will help to separate tightly fused pipes. Before starting work, turn off the water supply throughout the house.

The procedure is performed as carefully as possible, cast iron is easily damaged. First, the bell is lightly tapped with a hammer so that you do not have to change the entire riser. Then they loosen it in different directions, wrap it with a rope and pull it. After slowly pulling out the pipe element. You can also make an incision with a grinder at the bell itself. The rest of the pipe is drilled with a drill.

The end of one pipe is inserted into the socket of the other. At the junction, a gap is left (no more than 5 mm), which is filled with a special strand - a cable. This strand is made of a thin rope, the gap between the pipes is filled in layers. Each layer is sealed with a caulk. So you can create a tight and elastic connection.

In order for the connection to withstand high loads, 1/3 of the gap is filled with lead or cement. The first option is more reliable, but requires experience and skill. The second option is difficult to implement at high or low humidity.

There are more technologically advanced ways to connect cast iron pipes: bell-shaped with a rubber seal and bell-screw.

Lead casting

Repairmen use white or red clay, rope (20 cm longer than the pipe diameter and 15 mm thick), lead.

• A rope is wrapped around the pipe, then pulled tight. The bell is coated with clay.
• The rope is pulled out, a clay funnel is made at the top (a sprue 10 cm high), through which molten lead is poured.
• Lead is melted in an iron cauldron over a fire. The metal must be heated well enough, otherwise it will harden ahead of time and will not fill the socket.
• When pouring lead, safety regulations must be observed. To avoid splashing, pieces of stearin are thrown into the mold.
• After hardening, the clay mold is removed, the lead bay is inspected. It should fill the socket without cavities and gaps.

Sealing with cement (asbestos-cement) mortar

• First, a resin bundle is installed in the hole between the pipe and the socket, then it is compacted.
• Cement and water are mixed in a ratio of 9:1. The gap between the socket and the pipe is filled with the prepared solution.
• Sometimes the winding seal is coated with asbestos cement in several layers.

First, the joint is sealed, then the strands are compacted, at the end the joint is poured with asbestos-cement mortar

The hardening of the solution may interfere with high humidity.

Video: chasing a fun tee

Additional compactor - an alternative to embossing

A tool for chasing

Chasing is short-lived, there are several reasons for this: temperature changes, high humidity, soil shifts. But there is an additional seal - fittings, which can reduce the duration of pipe repair, prevent leakage and improve the quality of the connection. The design of the device is simple: two openable rings are completed with a rubber gasket, bolts and nuts for the coupler. The element is installed on the socket, and then fixed with a wrench. Work can be done without blocking the pressure, but only by reducing it.

• The size of the clamp must match the diameter of the pipe.
• Before installation, clean the surface of the pipe near the socket.
• Mount the gasket with the flat side to the socket. The ends of the seal are connected.
• Close the clamp around the pipe, install the studs, tighten the nuts.

It is necessary to install an additional seal on water and sewer lines. For enhanced protection, an anti-corrosion epoxy coating is used.

Video: installation of a socket sealer

The tightness of the joints is important in both internal and external communications. Sealing materials are durable polyethylene tapes, liquid rubber (silicone sealing rings). To switch from cast iron to plastic, a rubber adapter lubricated with silicone sealant is used.

Breaks in the line, caused by the destruction of the pipe at the junction, are eliminated for a long time, and the result of the work is not always of high quality. Making a tight connection in a hard-to-reach place is always a difficult and painstaking job. Planned preventive measures will help to avoid emergencies and save money.

Something, but there was a lot of cast iron in the Soviet Union! All technologies were developed taking into account the use of this particular material. So in the laying of sewers, cast iron is still very much in demand. Of course, cast iron has many very significant advantages - it can withstand heavy loads, which allows you to assemble risers on many floors, it is durable, can perform its function for decades in damp or cold rooms, paint fits well on a cast-iron pipe, that is, it can be beautifully entered into design. In a word, a cast iron sewer pipe is a solid, durable thing. But in this thoroughness lies its main drawback. It is very difficult to disassemble, if necessary, a part of such a pipeline. And sometimes this is an urgent need. For example, you need an additional outlet or an existing outlet has become unusable. How to proceed?

hammered pipe before starting work

The best thing is when the work is done by a professional, a master of his craft. In this case, you can be sure of the quality and efficiency of the work performed. But this option is not always possible. Often, plumbing has to wait for weeks, and their prices, to put it mildly, are overpriced. It happens that this "master" has no experience in such works. Not all those who wear plumbing overalls are such.

Therefore, if you have at least some manual skills, then you can disconnect or, as they say, emboss the cast-iron sewer pipes yourself. Let's try to decide on the algorithm of actions.

Preparation for caulking pipes

First of all, you need to stock up in advance with all the necessary tools so that it is at hand. It is necessary to prepare an angle grinder (grinder), preferably adapted to work with 230 mm discs. For those places that cannot be approached by a grinder, you need to stock up on a hacksaw (it's good to have a few spare blades). You will also need: a simple hammer and a hammer with a rubber or wooden sole, an adjustable wrench, a chisel, pliers, several screwdrivers of different widths, a blowtorch and a respirator. And, of course, glasses, gloves and rags.

warming up the pipe before caulking

Depending on the way the pipes were minted, the condition of the minting and your skill, the operation could take several hours. This must be kept in mind. Of all plumbing repairs, caulking cast-iron pipes is perhaps the most time-consuming job. But don't let that scare you. Thousands of people have done this job successfully, and so can you.

First stage

So, we begin dismantling the cast-iron sewer with our own hands. First of all, we close all the valves, thereby eliminating the possibility of water flow through the disassembled pipe. It is desirable (but not necessary) to agree with the neighbors from above to temporarily limit the use of water supply, and hence sewerage. We free ourselves as much space as possible, disconnect all drain pipes. Special mention must be made of the toilet. This plumbing product, as a rule, is located as close as possible to the riser. Modern toilets are connected to the sewer system using corrugations, while the Soviet ones were connected directly to the pipe socket. And since they were also attached to the floor by cement pouring, it is impossible to disconnect such a toilet bowl from the pipe and the floor at the same time. If such a rarity is installed in your bathroom, but you need to chisel the sewer, then you will have to say goodbye to such a toilet. It can only be broken and dismantled in parts.

the beginning of caulking a cast-iron pipe with a chisel and a hammer

After removing the toilet, disconnecting the pipes, we get directly to the connection that needs to be minted. If you need to replace the final pipe, this makes the task much easier. If the problematic part of the pipe is located in the middle of the common pipeline or has additional branches, cutting is indispensable. Such a pipe cannot be moved, and without this it will not be possible to remove one pipe from the other. Therefore, the pipe is cut a few (2-4) centimeters from the socket of the previous pipe. By no means flush!

The incision is made by a grinder (in compliance with all safety regulations). If the location of the pipe does not allow it to be completely cut, then we finish the rest with a hacksaw. Do not try to break the undercut with a hammer or pry bar. It is very important to remember that cast iron is a brittle material. This fragility is unpredictable, you can hit it several times in vain in one place, and suddenly crack in another. The pipes that you are changing are already worn out, they may have shells and microcracks inside, through which the pipe can burst. And the danger lies precisely in the fact that a part of the bell can break off, which must be left intact. Otherwise, the next pipe will also have to be changed, and it can be part of a common riser or pass through an interfloor ceiling. Agree that this is a completely different level of problems.

Correctly executed partial caulking of the pipe

Therefore, we carefully cut the pipe. You can make several longitudinal incisions on the rest of the pipe to the socket. To prevent foreign objects from entering the pipeline, plug the hole with a rag.

By the way, it is better to tie it to something just in case, to be sure that the rags will not fly into the riser.

Chasing pipes minted in different ways

Gently make a few blows with a hammer on the socket and try to loosen it. If there is slight movement, then the method of caulking is simpler, consisting of a rammed rope (kabolka). In this case, you should try to dig its top layer with a screwdriver of a suitable width and find the end. Then, having hooked the edge of the cable with pliers, we try to pull it out all the way, while shaking our rest of the pipe. Having pulled out the entire rope, we continue to shake the pipe in different directions, while pulling it towards ourselves.

The most undesirable, but, unfortunately, the most common method of minting in Soviet times was pouring sulfur compounds into the cavity. How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes connected in this way? To do this, you will have to use the only effective method - heating. Be sure to remember a simple thing: sulfur, and especially its vapors, are poison! Use a respirator without fail, and if possible, a gas mask! The process of heating sulfur with a blowtorch will take a long time, so if you do not have personal respiratory protection equipment, even if you have a good ventilation system, it is better not to start it at all. Health is more expensive!

connection of a embossed pipe with a plastic pipe

So, we heat the sulfur. Periodically tap on the pipe until it begins to noticeably move. This suggests that the consistency of sulfur has changed and it has become viscous. The pipe also got very hot, so we clamp it with an adjustable wrench and, just as in the previous case, we pull it towards ourselves, loosening it. Everything, the bell is free!

After the pipe is removed from the bell, it is necessary to clean it from the remnants of sulfur or kabolka. This is done with a chisel, screwdrivers and a chisel with a rubber mallet. Then everything inside is thoroughly wiped with a rag, especially the saddle of the bell, as the main working surface. The embossing process has been completed.

If the description of the process did not clarify everything, and you need to visually see how the caulking takes place, then try to find a video on the Internet on how to caulk a cast-iron sewer.

The main advantage of cast iron is durability, its main disadvantage is brittleness. These two features must be taken into account when maintaining and repairing cast iron pressure pipes.
The brittleness of cast iron imposes certain requirements on the connection of cast iron pipes. On the one hand, it must be strong and tight, and on the other hand, it must be sufficiently elastic. The fact is that pipes laid in the ground do not lie motionless. The soils are also characterized by shrinkage and blurring. When freezing, the water in the ground expands. All this leads to the movement of the ground. The pipe, as they say, "walks". Traditionally this problem is solved chasing pipes- connecting pipes in such a way that there is a margin of elasticity at the joints.
The smooth end of one pipe is inserted into the socket of the other. A small 3-5 mm gap remains at the junction, which is caulked with a resin strand (kabolka) two-thirds of the depth. The strand is a thin rope, which is inserted into the gap in layers. After each turn, the strand is compacted with a caulk - a special tool. Such a connection allows you to connect the pipe hermetically, but with a margin of elasticity.
To increase the strength of the joint, the remaining third of the gap is cemented or filled with lead. The second option is more reliable and preferable, because. connections in pressure pipes experience significant loads. Both procedures are quite complex and time-consuming. Cement behaves capriciously at high or low humidity, work with the melting of lead requires dexterity and additional preparations.
More advanced methods of connecting cast-iron pressure pipes are currently being used. For example, a socket with a rubber sealing ring and a socket-screw connection. But these compounds began to be used relatively recently. Recall that the advantage of cast iron is durability. The service life of cast iron pressure pipes is more than a hundred years. And, therefore, pipelines made according to old technologies are still actively exploited.
Chasing socket connection can be safely called the weakest point of the cast-iron pipeline. Under the influence of moisture, temperature changes and soil movement for decades, the coinage is destroyed. Typically, accidents caused destruction of coinage, are eliminated for a long time. Procedure minting time-consuming, requiring a certain skill. But even high qualification does not guarantee the absence of marriage. The liquidation of an accident is often carried out in difficult conditions: low temperatures, difficult access to the damaged area, watering of the pit, humidity that prevents the solution from hardening. Fussing with molten lead in such conditions is generally more like a repairman's nightmare. Alas, this dream often comes true. It is almost impossible to perform high-quality coinage during the liquidation of a complex accident.
Our company's product range includes a special type of fittings that can significantly reduce the time required to eliminate this type of accident and improve the quality of repair work on a cast-iron pipeline. This is a socket sealer DZ. With him, all work comes down to installing the product on the socket connection and fixing it with a conventional wrench. The rubber gasket securely seals the joint, without depriving it of the necessary elasticity, and the design itself firmly fixes the joint. Work can be carried out even without completely shutting off the pressure, but only by lowering it so that the leak does not interfere with the repair team. The reliability of the connection of cast-iron pressure pipes with the help of a socket joint sealer is several times higher than the reliability of traditional caulking. And, therefore, once the work is done, the problem will be eliminated once and for all.

Almost all Soviet buildings are equipped with cast-iron sewer communications, since such pipes are durable and resistant to wear. But the cast iron pipeline requires the right approach to use and dismantling.

Unlike drain pipes, which can last for decades, connections inside a home may need to be replaced sooner. Also, interventions in the sewer system may be forced during the installation of washing equipment or redevelopment of the bathroom. To do it according to the rules, it is not necessary to call and wait for the master, all the work can be mastered by the owner himself, if he knows how to handle elementary tools. Dismantling the sewer should not take much time, but dismantling old products is more difficult. Let's figure out how to properly dismantle cast iron pipes.

Step-by-step caulking of cast-iron pipes

In the process of repairing sewer communications with your own hands, the most difficult moment may be caulking a cast-iron pipe. Such manipulation may be required when repairing or reinstalling the riser. In this case, it is necessary to very carefully emboss the pipes of the cast-iron pipes. Step by step, this work can be done like this:

1. First, use a hammer to lightly tap the socket, while being careful not to break it, since carelessness can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, replacing the entire riser. It is better to use a wooden mallet.
2. If the previous blockage was made with the help of a cable, then after tapping the socket should wobble freely and can be removed without additional effort. In such a case, do the following:
   • swing the bell from side to side;
   • pry with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • hook it with pliers;
   • slowly and carefully pull out the rope, swinging the pipe in the process.
3. If, after tapping, the pipe did not start moving, it means that the previous caulking of the sockets of sewer pipes was carried out by pouring sulfur. In this option, you will need to get rid of it by burning it. To do this, proceed as follows:
   • gently heat the pipe at the joint along the entire diameter with a blowtorch or burner;
   • lightly, trying not to break the walls of the pipe, then tap it with a hammer;
   • if the bell starts to wobble, try moving it using an adjustable wrench.

   Please note that when working with a burner and sulfur, it is imperative to protect the respiratory tract with a mask so as not to get poisoned by toxic fumes.

4. After successful dismantling, the walls of the socket must be well cleaned with a chisel and chisel. Pay special attention to the bell seat, as this is where you will place the sealing rubber.
5. Having previously coated the rubber seal with a special lubricant, place it in the socket.
6. Place a new structural element in the rubber ring.

Precautions in repairing cast iron pipes

When working with such pipes, be sure to remember that cast iron is a relatively brittle material with its endurance. If you hit the metal hammer hard or too hard, the wall will vibrate, which may cause cracks. If this happens, the replacement of damaged sections will be long and expensive. Therefore, when preparing for dismantling, stock up on the necessary tools in advance.

Don't work alone, it is unsafe and difficult. Better call someone for help.

It's important to know that sulfur fumes can be harmful to health, so use a gas mask, in extreme cases, a respirator and goggles. Also take care of good air circulation in the room where the repair work is taking place.

After removing the pipe from the socket, take the time and attention to clean the seat of this part. So you will ensure the installation of the sealing material without defects and distortions.

Immediately pack all dismantled material and garbage into construction bags, tie and throw away. An unpleasant smell will come from the old pipeline.

If you are caulking cast iron pipes for the first time and after reading this article, you still do not understand how to do it, be sure to contact a professional. For an experienced craftsman, the process of dismantling cast iron pipes will take 25-30 minutes, while a beginner can spend more than 3 hours and with an unknown result.

Since chasing cast iron pipes is a very laborious job, as any specialist will tell you, it is wiser to carry out preventive inspections than to wait until a large-scale repair of the sewer system is required. Since cast iron is still mainly used for external sewer networks as the main material for pipes, which cannot be completely replaced by modern plastic counterparts, prevention should be treated with all due attention. In our article, we will focus on two types of repair work - caulking and caulking of cast iron pipes.

Chasing cast iron pipes

Preparation for repair

Sometimes it becomes necessary to repair some part of the sewerage system. However, such repairs can not always be made without disconnecting the pipes. When it is required to replace a pipeline section, you should first inspect the place of future work in order to determine how the pipes were connected to each other at one time.

Often the main difficulty is that pipes, especially those located in the ground, are filled with a special compound that prevents them from separating. In this case, the question arises of how to emboss a cast-iron pipe without much effort and time.

It is possible to quickly disconnect the pipes by using a gas cutter to remove the composition, which fastens the elements of the system.

Pipe chasing technology

Do-it-yourself caulking of cast-iron pipes, carried out when replacing a riser or changing a toilet bowl, can create no less of a problem. In this case, it becomes necessary to caulk the branch pipe of the cast-iron pipe as accurately as possible. The embossing process looks like this:

1. The first action to be taken is to tap the socket of the pipe with a hammer, being careful not to split it, in order to avoid a complete replacement of the riser.
2. After making sure that the bell moves quite freely and can be released without any problems, since it was caulked with a heel, you can proceed with dismantling:
   • slightly loosen the bell from side to side;
   • pry with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • firmly grab the rope with pliers;
   • gently, slowly, pull out the rope, while continuing to loosen the tube.

1. In the case when the bell does not budge after tapping, that is, the caulking of cast-iron pipes was carried out by pouring sulfur, you will have to use the method of burning it out:
   • carefully heat the pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or burner;
   • trying not to damage the pipe, continue gently tapping the pipe with a hammer;
   • when the bell starts to move, slightly loosen it from side to side with an adjustable wrench.

When performing an operation to burn sulfur, it is imperative to wear a respirator so as not to be poisoned by harmful fumes.

1. After the bell is safely released, it must be cleaned using a chisel or chisel. Particular care should be taken to clean the socket seat, where the sealing rubber will be placed.
2. Coat the rubber seal with special grease and insert into the socket.
3. Install a new part in the seal.

Chasing pipes

When assembling a system consisting of cast-iron pipes, it is necessary to foresee a method for closing the gaps that remain invariably between the outer side of the inserted part of the pipe and the inner surface of the socket. That is, you should think about how to mint cast-iron pipes. There are two ways to solve the problem, let's consider them in more detail.

Sealing of sockets with cement mixture

The chasing technology looks like this:

1. Resin seal installation.

• caulk the resin tourniquet into the socket up to 2/3 of its depth;
• when forming the first rope ring, wrap the end of the bundle over the ring so that it does not fall into the pipe.

1. The use of cement mortar.

• mix cement marking 300-400 with water (by weight) in a ratio of 9:1;
• the place remaining after compaction of the bundle in the socket should be filled with cement mortar;
• firmly strike the cement with a chasing and a hammer until the chasing rebounds from the cement;
• for a better setting of the solution after caulking, cover it with a wet rag.

To increase work productivity, it is worth using broadened caulking and embossing, which will speed up the process by about 30%.

If work is carried out in winter, cement should be mixed with hot water, and the joints must be insulated after sealing.

Sealing of sockets with asbestos cement

Another way to caulk a cast-iron pipe is to use an asbestos-cement mixture. The process has two differences:

1. A dry mixture of asbestos fiber and cement is prepared by mixing them in a ratio of 1:2.
2. Before direct use, the dry mixture is moistened with water: from 10 to 12% of the initial mass of the mixture.

The chasing technology itself looks similar to the first method.

On this, a rather laborious work - chasing and / or chasing cast-iron pipes - is completed. To achieve the best result, however, such work should be entrusted to qualified specialists. Only in this case, you can be sure that everything will be done correctly, and you will not have to deal with more complex repairs, eliminating the flaws of poor-quality installation or dismantling.

Do-it-yourself installation of sewer pipes requires the contractor to fully comply with the rules of construction work and standards. In most cases, these issues have already been resolved for multi-apartment buildings, so this process is relevant for private houses and cottages. It is for this reason that owners need to know all the nuances of building a drainage system. In our article we will find out how to make a sewer with our own hands.

It is necessary to install water pipes from the drawing up of communication laying diagrams. The photo should indicate and indicate all the components of the structure: the dimensions of the elements, the location of the fittings, the lines of the system. In practice, most plumbing fixtures are connected to one riser, but if the room is large, it is better to connect to several points.

When the question arises of installing a sewer system, you can start from the photo of the previous wiring diagram in the building. It is worth considering that if a cast-iron pipe is replaced with a plastic one, then it is impossible to focus on the old system.

Attention! With a large number of storeys of the building, it is rational to place the plumbing units one under the other.

When performing repair work, it is enough to make a schematic drawing of the adjustable system. But, if sewage installation is being carried out, then it is impossible to do without drawing up a project. This norm is necessary due to the existence of an internal and external design of the drainage system. Plus, most cases also involve the installation of a cleaning device.

Work materials

For such types of work, the requirements of SNiP provide for the installation of the following types of pipes:

• cast iron;
• ceramic;
• Asbestos-cement;
• ceramic;
• Plastic.

Most often, polyethylene materials are used, which correspond to GOST 22689.0-89 and 22689.2-89, and have a diameter of 40 to 110 mm. A feature of plastic pipes is resistance to aggressive environmental influences and corrosion. Such devices are connected using sockets, and rubber cuffs are used for sealing.

Basic rules of the installation process

Before proceeding with the installation work on the sewer, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for the process. This is necessary to create an optimal drainage system in the house. For this reason, it is very important to do everything correctly and accurately.

Sizes of diameters and slopes of pipes

Since most situations involve the creation of a system with gravity, it becomes very important to choose the diameter and slope of the pipes correctly. The functioning of the sewer will depend on this process. The size of the pipe dimensions is affected by the type of plumbing fixtures, as well as their number in the building. Generally speaking, the main factor is the photo installation diagram. So here are some recommendations:

• It is better to insert a pipe diameter into the washbasin system - 4 cm;
• For bathroom and kitchen - 5 cm;
• For a riser that does not have a connection to the toilet - 8.5 cm;
• For a riser with a connected toilet - 10 cm

Attention! The pipe must be directed to the riser from the apparatus. It is worth noting that its dimensions should be 2-15 cm per meter.

Dismantling the old wiring

Before mounting a new system, you need to remove the elements of the old layout. It is worth noting that this process can be quite a difficult job, especially for old-timers' houses. In order to speed up and facilitate the procedure, it is necessary to think about dismantling in advance.

Required Tools

To install the sewer with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• Special grinder or hacksaw;
• Drill apparatus;
• Screwdriver.

It is right to start all work from the bathroom and the most distant places of pipelines. Before starting the process, it is necessary to check whether all the necessary materials and tools are available. In addition, we advise you to perform pipe diagnostics to determine if there are any deformations and damages on them.

Preparatory stages of installation

Preparation for installation includes the following steps:

• We check and adjust all connection points. We mark on the pipes the depths of the occurrences of the sockets.
• Next, the chasing and cutting of pipes is performed;

Attention! The caulking of the pipeline occurs at an angle of 90 degrees. It should be noted that the cut should not have deformations or distortions.

• The points of the cut pipes should be correctly checked for burrs, as their presence on the part will affect the sealing of the joints and lead to the accumulation of debris and blockages. You need to fix this situation with a file.
• Before assembling the system, it is necessary to clean the extreme parts of the pipes and the rubber seals. Failure to comply with this norm will reduce the quality of the connection.

If you focus on the standard photo, the sewerage scheme in the premises, then it provides that the pipe wiring is carried out along three lines of the system:

• The device of the first highway is the line with the shortest length, which should not exceed 1 meter. In this branch, it is necessary to mint a toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures in the house.
• The second line includes bathroom appliances and equipment, namely a washbasin, shower, washing machine.
• The third branch is the drainage line from the kitchen.

Attention! The length of the second and third branches should be less than three meters. For this reason, if the building has a large volume, then it is necessary to insert the lines into at least two risers.

The main sewer lines have several branches that go to each type of plumbing. Each line at the end provides for the installation of a siphon. A water lock is a necessary element of any system that forms a cork from the water, which prevents gases from escaping from the sewer. In most cases, such an apparatus does not exist in the installation of a washing machine, since its system has a check valve.

Chasing cast iron pipes

Sometimes there are situations when there is a need to perform repairs for a separate part of the sewer system. It should be noted that the process does not always occur without disconnection of the pipeline. To start minting pipes, you need to inspect the place of future work.

The main problem is that the pipes that are in the ground are filled with a special substance, which strengthens the fastening. Therefore, the question arises, how is the chasing of cast-iron pipelines performed? This is what we are now trying to find out. It is enough to simply destroy the connection using a gas cutter.

Pipe chasing technology

Difficulty can also arise when chasing cast-iron or plastic pipes, which occurs when replacing a riser or toilet bowl. For the correctness of the action, you need to very carefully mint the pipe pipe. This action includes several steps:

• The first thing we need to do is to tap the bell with a hammer so as not to damage it;
• If the bell moves quietly and can be easily dismantled, which means that the caulking was carried out with a cable.
• Then you can start dismantling - loosen the bell, pry with a screwdriver and pull the cord a little. Then gently pull out the rope with pliers.

If the bell is motionless when tapped, this means that the chasing was done with sulfur. In this situation, you need to use the burning technology:

• Carefully perform heating of the pipeline around the circumference with a burner or blowtorch;
• Avoiding damage, carefully tap the pipeline with a hammer;
• When the bell is movable, you can loosen it with an adjustable tool.

Attention! When performing work, it is necessary to use a respirator to avoid inhalation of sulfur.

• After releasing the bell, we clean it with a chisel;
• We cover the sealing ring with a special solution, and insert it into the socket;
• We mount a new part in the seal.

Installation of plastic sewer pipes

Installing plastic sewer pipes is a little different from other types. For this reason, we provide some tips on how to mint them:

• There are two ways to cut a plastic pipe. It is worth noting that the saw for such work should have small teeth. Also, this task can be performed using a two-handed cable.
• Do not leave burrs, which very often appear when cutting plastic products.
• We carry out cleaning and gluing of materials. First, you need to perform a dry assembly, and then you can start gluing the system. To do this, we make marks, and then we connect the structural elements with glue.
• We assemble the sewerage pipeline system.
• We fill in all the empty spaces.
• We install a plastic pipe for ventilation. The connection must be made with copper material.
• Plastic pipes are used for connections of high complexity. The strength of the tightness of the structure is provided by couplings without a socket.
• We strengthen the risers. To do this, use metal lining - this element will protect against accidental hits of small parts, such as nails or screws.

So, we found out that installing a sewer is quite simple. The article presents two options for completing the process - a design with cast iron and plastic pipes. The main requirement for installation is compliance with the rules and regulations that are regulated by SNiP and Gost RF. So, study the legislative base and construction and sanitary conditions, and then you will be able to install a drainage system in your own house or apartment correctly.

Add to bookmarks