Beautiful and comfortable beds. A garden for the lazy and smart: how to make comfortable and productive beds

Many gardeners have heard of this new method of farming, and some have seen first hand the amazing results of its implementation in the garden. What are smart beds, and how to make them on the site with your own hands?

Smart gardening is an agrotechnical method based on the principles of organic farming. In addition to high yields without the use of chemical fertilizers, neat structures will add significant aesthetic value to your garden.

The traditional method of cultivating the land, based on digging up the garden and the complete removal of weeds, leads to depletion of the soil and its drying out with a complete loss of beneficial microorganisms.

The essence of the popular agrotechnical method is the absence of annual digging of the earth, during which its natural balance is disturbed. Layers of nutrient soil, compost and mulch provide planted crops with moisture, nutrition and warmth, so necessary for plants to develop and fruit abundantly. Even on the “poorest” soil (sand and clay), with such an organization, maximum fertility can be achieved. Weeds on smart beds practically do not grow due to a layer of mulch that prevents seeds carried by the wind from penetrating to the ground.

Smart beds save gardeners a huge amount of time, after proper organization of the garden space, you will not need to weed, the number of waterings will be significantly reduced, and the application of mineral fertilizers is not required at all. Plants, getting all the nutrients from the nutrient soil, will give you an unexpectedly generous harvest.

Creating smart beds

The process of building smart beds will not take you much time, the main thing is to immediately prepare all the materials and raw materials necessary for work.

1. Choice of location. Most of the cultivated plants in our gardens are photophilous, so the place for smart beds should be under the sun for at least 6 hours during the day.
2. Site preparation. Clear the selected area in the garden from perennials and weeds. Digging the ground is not necessary, as well as removing grass.
3. Space planning. Mark the prepared area and install the sides of future smart beds. The width of the boards (that is, the height of the walls) depends on the type you choose.
4. Drainage. The first layer on the ground is poured with raw materials that do not retain moisture - wood chips, straw, shavings, dry leaves, bark, algae. It will take quite a lot of material to organize a 10-centimeter pillow.
5. Fertilizers. The second layer is poured into the smart bed, suitable for the crop that will grow here, fertilizer. As a universal remedy, you can use the compost available on the site.
6. Layering. Next, a moisture-proof layer is laid out again on the smart bed, fertilizer is placed on top, the cycle can be repeated 1-2 more times.
7. Upper layer. The layering of the beds is completed with a 10-centimeter layer of fertile soil.
8. Watering. The beds are abundantly spilled with warm water and left for several days. During this time, the layers will stand and seem to be saturated with each other.
9. Landing. Seeds are sown in the top layer of soil on a smart bed or seedlings are planted. The earth is again abundantly shed.
10. Mulching. To keep moisture in smart beds for planted crops, as well as to avoid the appearance of weeds, the soil is mulched using available raw materials - sawdust, small chips and bark, straw, peat or mowed grass without seeds. You can also use geotextiles or film, it is necessary to make holes in the canvases through which the plants will germinate.

This agrotechnical method is sometimes referred to as "puff garden" or "lasagne". It got this name because of the alternation of natural drainage-composting and nutrient layers. A visual process of creating smart beds was demonstrated by an experienced gardener in the following video:

In order for the created smart beds to bring the maximum result for your garden, follow the important recommendations when organizing them:

• the beds should be horizontal so that the incoming moisture does not leak out of them;
• distribute crops correctly, heat-loving tomatoes, eggplants and cucumbers should grow on the south side of the site, greens on the north;
• do not make smart beds too big, otherwise it will be inconvenient for you to work with them, a width of 45 cm is enough.

Types of smart beds

During the development of the agrotechnical method, a lot of varieties of smart beds have appeared. Consider the most popular and common options among our gardeners.

in-depth

The easiest way to create a smart garden bed that does not require building skills and expensive materials is to deepen the layers directly into the ground. Mark a place for planting crops and dig a hole 2 bayonet deep in the selected area.

Backfill the hole with several layers of moisture-proof raw materials and fertilizer, and then complete the smart bed with a 10 cm cushion of fertile soil. After planting crops, the soil must be mulched.

The advantages of this type of smart beds lies in the simplicity and convenience of organization - you can make them on virgin lands, on a finished lawn or on poor soil. The in-depth version allows in a short time without serious and expensive agrotechnical solutions to provide cultivated plants with the conditions they need: nutrition, moisture and warmth.

raised

The height of the raised beds is 10-20 cm above the ground. They look very neat and can be of any shape. This option is created according to the general principle:

• a place is planned for a smart garden;
• soil is removed to a depth of 30-40 cm;
• sides are organized from wooden boards or any available material;
• alternate layers of straw and compost are laid out;
• the last layer is a 10 cm pillow of fertile soil.

Raised smart beds in practice are not very comfortable, they are quite low, and when working with them, the back experiences a strong load. However, experienced gardeners who are accustomed to dealing with a classic garden are no strangers to such difficulties, and they won’t have to “mess around” with the soil, since weeds are not expected.

High

Initially, high smart beds were created in areas with heavy rains and swampiness. Their layering ensures optimal drainage - excess moisture freely goes to the lower levels. Subsequently, high beds fell in love with all gardeners because of the convenience of work. At a level of 30 to 80 cm, it is much more comfortable to manipulate crops, mulch and loosen, and the supply of nutrients in the soil is more than enough for several years.

1. Pick up and clear a place under the bed.
2. Make a box of suitable height from improvised materials (boards, bricks, metal sheets or plastic plates).
3. Install a fine metal mesh on the bottom - such a measure is necessary to prevent rodents from accessing ripening roots and warm soil.
4. To prevent the germination of weeds, geotextiles can be laid out on top. But such a complete isolation of the beds will not allow earthworms to enter the soil, namely, they must carry out the composting process.
5. Then a 10-centimeter drainage layer of crushed stone, expanded clay or broken brick is laid out.
6. A standard “lasagna” of a smart bed is laid out on the drainage, ending with a 10-centimeter layer of fertile soil.

When sowing seeds in such a bed, you need to wait until the sprouts get stronger - until this time, it is recommended to keep the frame closed with a film or geotextile to prevent weed seeds from entering the soil. When the plants are ready for outdoor cultivation, the ground is mulched with a thick layer of at least 10 cm.

Warm

Warm smart beds may well compete with a greenhouse. They are able to provide a bountiful harvest of absolutely all crops, especially those that require "hot" conditions for development and fruiting.

The frame of such a bed completely repeats the tall box, the differences are in the filling. The composition of the layers will be as follows:

1. Sawdust, doused with boiling water and soaked in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate - 15 cm.
2. Organics (fallen leaves, manure and bird droppings) - 15 cm.
3. Quickly decaying organic matter (compost and mowed grass) - 10 cm.
4. Fertile soil mixed with mineral fertilizers - 20 cm.

The service life of a warm bed is limited to 4 years. By the end of the fourth season, all organic matter will rot and stop generating heat, but you can use the made box and the soil in it to grow other crops that do not require greenhouse conditions for growth.

Smart gardening is an agrotechnical method with proven results. They will significantly reduce your labor costs when carrying out garden work and provide you with a plentiful quality harvest without the use of harmful stimulants.

Do you know what an innovation is, how high beds came to our country from Canada. There, the land has been cultivated in this way for many years. Such planting options can be used not only for growing vegetables, but also for creating original ones. Let's find out how to make beautiful and practical high beds in the country with your own hands. Photos, descriptions of technological processes and diagrams will help you with this.

Do-it-yourself high beds in the country: photos of designs and main characteristics

The rate of gas exchange, soil moisture and the presence of beneficial microorganisms depend on the size and shape of the beds. All these parameters affect the quality of the soil.

With the help of raised beds, you can grow a large crop of berries, vegetables and fruits. At the same time, you can get good performance even from a piece of land that is not fertile. A feature of high beds is that they warm up faster than low designs.

There are several types of vertical beds. They differ not only in material, but also in functionality. Some options are made from building materials, while others are made from simple ones.

Here are the types of beds available:

• trapezoidal structures;

• multi-tiered beds;

• triangular structures.

When creating isolated beds, factors such as illumination, soil composition, and also its structure can be taken into account. At what height such beds will be placed depends on the volume of the root system, soil characteristics and your own preferences. The minimum height is 15 cm, but to produce better insulation, you can raise them by 30-40 cm. Warm raised landings can be higher than 50 cm, since a layer is still laid on the bottom. Narrow beds can be up to half your height.

The length can be very varied. Most often it depends on the length of the garden. If the bed is too long, then it needs to further strengthen the sides. When arranging any garden, remember your own comfort and convenience. The best width is when you can reach the middle of the structure. The optimal value is 90-120 cm.

You can grow a variety of crops in raised beds. It is not recommended to use plants with tall stems, as it will be inconvenient to harvest fruits from them. Root crops, strawberries, peppers, herbs and cucumbers are often planted on bulk structures.

Note! A special benefit is the filler for raised beds. It is made from organic ingredients. At the same time, the root system is located in the fertile layer, which contributes to the development and growth of plants.

Related article:

Let's find out how to make original beds and what materials they can be built from. Interesting ideas in our review will help you create a variety of designs.

Features of high beds: pros and cons

The main advantage of raised beds is that you can place a lot of vegetables and plants in a small area. High beds for strawberries, fragrant herbs and cucumbers are especially popular. Also, such structures have other advantages:

• bulk beds can be filled with specially prepared soil. In this case, the quality of the soil on the site does not matter much;
• it is possible to adjust the thickness of the soil layer for any plants;
• raised vegetable gardens are easier to weed and dig;
• raised beds can be set up anywhere, even with difficult terrain;
• seedlings can be planted on high embankments earlier, as the soil in them warms up faster;
• in raised gardens, the soil is looser, which contributes to better gas exchange;
• can be used for, which will hang from the edge of the fences for a high bed;
• depending on the material, you can create not only practical, but also beautiful designs. Some options can become a design masterpiece for your garden;
• high beds with sides are practically not subject to attack by weeds, and are also well protected from mold and fungi;
• the installation of the beds is not a difficult procedure, they can also be easily dismantled. The location of landings can be easily changed;
• inside such structures, you can create a comfortable one;
• soil on raised beds is maximally protected from freezing. During early frosts, such a landing can be covered with polyethylene;
• the erection of high landings is protected from erosion during heavy rains.

Such structures have certain disadvantages, but there are not so many of them. First of all, you will need top dressing with mineral fertilizers. It is important to monitor the invasion of the bear.

Note! Before starting work, treat the wood parts with an antiseptic and special impregnations. This will prevent the processes of decay and protect against the destruction of materials.

Creating vertical beds with your own hands: photo options

You can also create warm high beds or vertical structures. They are popular because of the appearance and space savings. In addition, this is an excellent solution for protecting plantings from various pests. Vertical structures are great for growing flowers, strawberries and herbs. You can not only make such designs from improvised raw materials, but even purchase ready-made options. You can see how to make warm designs in the video:

Why buy a vertical bed for strawberries: prices

You can see different design options for vertical beds, but their most important advantage is their miniature dimensions. Such structures can be built from any materials, even from plastic bottles.

Vertical products do not require special care. They are at the optimum height for easy handling.

You can see how to make a raised structure for strawberries in the video: To increase the rigidity of the pyramidal bed, you need to install an additional pole as a supporting element. In this case, the boards are mounted on a horizontal surface and attached to each other. A rail is installed in the base. The resulting side is fixed vertically, and then the second and third sides are attached to it. After installing the frame system, the length of the rails is measured. They are placed with an interval of 25-30 cm. To make the shelf raised, its ends should be cut at an angle of 30 degrees. After assembly, the structure is filled with soil, which is rammed.

The technology of arranging vertical beds for strawberries from plastic pipes

To grow strawberries, you can build a vertical garden bed. In this case, you need to prepare plastic pipes, a steel cable and a special knife for cutting. The volumetric section allows you to place the required amount of soil inside. The incision should be made along the structure. To fix the bed in a horizontal position, you need to make a hole in each of the halves. Then a fishing line or cable is pulled through them. Then the parts are placed one above the other. At the same time, you can make different levels of beds from pvc pipes with your own hands.

Note! If you plan to place structures in a suspended state, then you need to consider that they can sway. Therefore, it is better to install them in places that are well protected from the wind.

Do-it-yourself erection of vertical beds using a building grid

A compact design can be built for crops such as strawberries, herbs, flowers or potatoes. A good solution would be a vertical bed. To do this, you need to prepare a metal mesh, straw, special soil and the necessary tool for processing the material.

To create a bed, you need to bend the grid in the form of a pipe. In this case, the cross section should be 0.9 meters. The edges are fastened with wire. Straw is laid on the sides, and the free space is filled.

To plant potatoes, such beds should be placed at a height of 50 cm from the surface level. Spaces of 10 cm are left between the plants. Then the first layer should be shed, then the soil should be laid and the seedlings should be planted.

Features of arranging a vertical garden for strawberries with your own hands: using pots

Ordinary strawberries can also be used to grow strawberries. Such designs allow you to create an attractive external design. You can use both plastic and clay pots. Thus, you can create a multi-level composition.

Pots must be selected so that their diameters become smaller towards the top of the structure. In this case, the difference between pairs of pots should differ little.

The largest pot is set in the selected location and filled with soil. After that, a smaller pot is placed in it, etc. When the structure is ready, plants are planted in the soil and watered. The largest pot is installed at the base of the structure. A rod smaller than the diameter of the container is placed inside. The pot is filled with soil, and the rest of the products are alternately strung on rods. After filling with soil, plants are planted. Pots are mounted on a pole or high stump.

The nuances of creating vertical beds for strawberries with your own hands from tires: photos of products

There are different ways to grow cucumbers outdoors. In this case, you can build vertical beds. Also, this option is suitable for planting strawberries.

The tire structure is mounted on the same principle as pot structures. For this, tires of different sections are suitable. But at the same time, keep in mind that old products are not particularly environmentally friendly material.

Before mounting, the tires should be cleaned, dried and, if necessary, painted. The largest tire is placed down, and a part is cut off on the side. The hole is filled with soil and planted with plants. Thus, other elements fit in. Tires can be beautifully decorated with patterns or even unusual cuts.

Article

Before each gardener with the advent of spring, the question arises of how to equip the beds so that the crops have all the conditions for development and fruiting. In addition, the correct arrangement of the beds greatly facilitates their care.

Recently, high beds made using a frame made of boards are gaining popularity. However, not everyone has the opportunity to build them due to the lack or shortage of wood material. Do not despair, because there are many more ways to make beds in the garden without the use of boards.

Most often, a garden is planned using the following beds:

• standard;
• narrow;
• high.

Standard beds

Such beds are located at the same height as the garden, do not protrude above the soil and do not go deep into it. The location of the beds, their width and length depend only on the preferences of the gardener. The distance between the rows is usually made no more than 50 cm in order to gain access to plants for care. To mark the beds, pull the rope or use a special garden marker.

Standard beds are good to do on flat areas that are evenly lit by the sun.

narrow beds

For arranging narrow beds, only a flat surface of the site with good lighting is suitable. Their feature is a rather large row spacing (up to 1 m), despite the fact that the width of the beds themselves is only 45 cm. Narrow beds rise slightly above the soil surface (by 20 cm).

In the place where it is planned to break the beds, they dig up the earth and apply fertilizers (the aisles themselves are not fertilized):

• dolomite flour;
• mineral complex.

This type of beds is also called beds according to the Mittlider method - the scientist who invented it. To increase the yield on high beds, he recommended regularly watering them and applying commercially manufactured top dressings, excluding compost and manure.

Raised beds (without the use of boards)

To arrange high beds, a frame 90 cm high and 120 cm wide is pre-mounted, which is filled with nutrient soil. Raised beds may vary in size. The basis of the frame, in addition to the boards, are:

Stationary slate beds - video

At first glance, the beds in the country do not require decorative elements, but in fact they play a big role not only in productivity, but also in the appearance of the entire garden plot. While working in the garden, almost each of us would like to see our site as well-groomed and pleasing to the eye as possible.

The form

The shape of the beds on the site primarily depends on your fantasies and how you want to see them in the end. There are a lot of decor options: beds are square, round, in the form of animals, various objects and other things. If you wish, you can not even follow the standard rules when building a garden bed, but come up with something new and unusual. It is recommended to arrange the beds on the garden plot, taking into account the features of the relief.

As a rule, there are no strict recommendations on sizes, but there is one nuance that should be taken into account when calculating. The size of the bed should be such that from any side you can reach its middle without any inconvenience. If you need to build a bed near a fence or wall of the house, then first think about whether you can easily reach the opposite side.

Attention ! The width of the wall beds should be within 70 - 80 centimeters. The width of the beds, located directly on the site and adjacent to the wall or fence, varies from 1 meter in width, from 2.5 meters in length, and the depth is from 20 to 50 centimeters. The distance between the beds themselves is recommended to be from 50 to 70 centimeters. The paths and paths between them should be approximately 20-50 centimeters below the surface layer of the beds.

Organization

If the summer cottage is located in the lowlands and places where dampness prevails, then the beds are best built in the autumn. It is recommended to choose a small size (1 by 1 meter), and the height should be no more than 30 centimeters. Thus, the soil will warm up much better, and the snow cover in the spring will come off much faster.

• to start, take four wooden boards;
• then collect from them a square 1 by 1 meter;
• after the base is ready, install the structure on a horizontal surface and fill it with soil mixed with fertilizer. If you need an early and plentiful harvest, then in this case it is best to equip raised beds.

The construction process is as follows:

• in a suitable area, it is necessary to dig a hole 40-50 centimeters deep. Choose the length of the hole according to your preferences. As for its width, here the recommended width is from 1 to 1.2 meters;
• further along the perimeter of the dug hole, it is necessary to establish a semblance of a frame. The material for the frame can be chosen based on your own preferences, for example, stones, bricks, small logs and others. The frame, the height of which should be from 40 to 50 centimeters, must be closed from the inside with a plastic film;
• further, an iron mesh must be installed at the bottom of the pit, which will protect the crop from rodents;
• then carefully fill the hole. To begin with, a layer of sawdust, shavings, cardboard and other similar long-decomposing material (1/3 of the hole high) is poured onto its bottom. Sprinkle the layer a little with earth and pour water;
• at the end, we fill up the soil, which should be mixed with manure and mineral fertilizers.

Location

If the plot is small, there may be some problems with the location of the beds. To place the beds in a small area as rationally as possible, you should adhere to the following rules:

• it is necessary first of all to use any horizontal surfaces and suspended structures;
• the second option could be to combine a beautifully designed garden with a recreation area;
• you should also pay attention to various items on your site (unnecessary barrels, old carts, etc.), which can be used for planting vegetables.

Attention ! Remember that it is necessary to place the beds on a flat horizontal surface, thereby avoiding the possible accumulation of excess moisture.

tillage

As a rule, the beds are dug up twice a year, in spring and autumn, while adding all the necessary mineral and organic fertilizers. If digging takes place in the fall, it is best to leave the soil lumpy, which will help retain moisture. In addition, if the earth remains lumpy, then the pest larvae in it will freeze and die. Also, instead of autumn digging, mulching can be done. To do this, you will need to fill the soil with a sufficiently large layer, consisting of peat, sawdust and rotted compost. In the spring, the unripened layer must be removed with a rake, and then the soil should be dug up.

Borders

Many people often do not pay due attention to the design of the sides of the beds. As a rule, simple paths are made between them or upholstered with boards around the perimeter. But some want to create a beautiful view throughout the site, including the garden. You can decorate the bumpers in different ways, from improvised or purchased materials, for example, ready-made bumpers bought in a store, bumpers made of bricks or slate. It all depends on your imagination.

Kinds

vertical

A vertical garden bed will be a good solution for a small area. You can build it from improvised materials, for example, from boxes. But it is worth remembering that not all types of garden crops are suitable for growing in such a garden. The following types are suitable: strawberries, onions, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers.

From car tires

To do this, you need several rubber tires from the wheels of the car. First you need to prepare them: clean them of dirt and paint. Then soil with organic and mineral fertilizers is poured into the tire. The following types of crops are suitable for growing: parsley, dill, radish.

green wall

If your site has a fence or other building, then to give them an attractive appearance, you can try to build a so-called green wall. There is nothing complicated about this, you just need to attach the boxes to the fence or to the wall of the building, fill them with soil and plant the plants.

You can also go in a more original way and use simple plastic bottles instead of boxes. To do this, we fasten plastic bottles to the required surface, then cut a hole in the upper part of the bottle and fill it with earth. After that, you can plant the necessary crops.

weaving arch

At their summer cottage, you can build an arch from weaving types of crops, for example, cucumbers. To do this, we need several boxes where we fill the soil and plant seedlings of cucumbers. Then it is necessary to build an arch from small pipes (if you make an arch yourself, then you cannot do without the ability to work with welding). After the arch is ready, seedling boxes must be placed at the bottom of the structure. As the cucumbers grow, they need to be tied up.

spicy

A spicy garden bed in the country occupies a special role, because the crops growing on it can be used as medicinal, seasonings for dishes, or simply playing the role of ornamental plants.

Attention ! A spicy bed is best placed in areas of the site where sunlight predominates.

Spicy herbs will be the perfect solution for creating an original landscape design. Spicy crops do not require close care from the summer resident, they will also help protect the garden from various kinds of pests:

• lavender will help prevent the spread of aphids on rose flowers;
• a thyme border around the perimeter of the beds will prevent the spread of pests on vegetable crops;
• yarrow will give carrots a sweeter and richer taste.

Suitable plants

• Melissa;
• thyme;
• yarrow;
• sage;
• fennel.

ornamental plants

• common basil;
• Melissa officinalis;
• mint;
• parsley;
• rosemary officinalis;
• thyme;
• caraway;
• medicinal sage;
• coriander;
• fragrant onion.

Worth paying attention

When arranging a spicy bed, it is worth considering that some types of crops (such as lemon balm or thyme) can grow to impressive sizes, thereby crowding out other crops. For this reason, plant growth must be monitored and controlled very carefully.

Growth control is carried out as follows: plants must be pruned in time, allocate an area for subsequent growth or limit it by constructing tile or brick sides. Thus, the area where it is planned to plant plants will be divided into squares, which are laid out in a checkerboard pattern using slabs or bricks. Crops are planted in free squares.

When planting greenery, you must consider:

• when planting spicy and medicinal plants, special attention should be paid to their environmental requirements;
• for spicy and medicinal beds, you need to choose species planting material.

If you follow these simple rules, as well as use creative ideas, you can give your site a pleasant appearance.

Before each owner of a personal, summer cottage or garden plot, the question arises of the correct placement of the garden on his site. The very word "correct" suggests that there are certain rules, norms or mandatory principles according to which the garden should be equipped. And some general principles, of course, can be identified - but it is precisely some. This is due to the huge variety of conditions in which the sites are located, and besides, the personal preferences of the owners are of no small importance.

At all should not blindly copy someone else's experience, especially if this is experience gained in another soil-climatic zone. But what about? What should beginner gardeners do?

Choosing a place for the garden

Let's start with a question that inevitably arises when planning: where to place a garden on the site, what part of the total area to allocate for it. After the simplest calculation of the need for vegetables (see), it usually turns out that it is enough to allocate a plot for a garden about 3 acres. More or less - will depend on the composition of the family and the desire to experiment with any cultures.

Under the garden allocate the sunniest place, without shading on the south side. Unlike the garden, which is located on the northern slope, it is preferable for the garden southern exposure. This is the case if the garden is only a garden. The garden plot is subject to certain requirements:

• high doses of fertilizers (both organic and mineral) are applied under vegetables;
• provide good air permeability to soils, for which baking powders are introduced in the form of straw cutting, straw manure, coarse-grained river sand;
• create optimal conditions for moistening, remove excess water through drainage or arrange watering with insufficient moisture;
• protect the site from the prevailing winds by planting ornamental or fruit trees on the windward side, but so that there is no shading - all vegetables are photophilous.

Sometimes gardeners divide the total area into several plots according to this principle: the main crops with a large planting area are isolated in one array, and the green and spicy-aromatic ones are placed closer to the path and the building, so that you can easily cut a bunch of parsley or dill without running all over the dacha or backyard.

Recently it has become fashionable to arrange decorative vegetable garden. Here, vegetable crops also perform design functions, so they are already selected for their decorative qualities. But it's still exotic. If you are interested in the topic of an ornamental garden, read the articles on the principles of its organization from the list of recommended literature for the lesson.

It is undesirable to plant vegetables in the aisles of the garden, where there is shading, competition for water and nutrients, there is a danger of contamination of products with poisons used to protect the garden. Yes, and vegetables work best in open areas.

We place greenhouses and greenhouses

There are a lot of vegetable crops, and they are very diverse in their external characteristics and growing characteristics. The desire of the gardener to provide himself with early vegetables leads to the need to allocate an area for insulated soil. Now there is no problem in acquiring various greenhouses and greenhouses or materials for their independent construction.

In protected ground, heat-loving vegetable crops are grown in small quantities: tomatoes, pepper, eggplant, cucumber, vegetable marrow. To obtain early greenery in insulated soil, they are sown as compactors salad, dill, parsley and other herbs. To meet the need for early vegetables, 4-5 plants of each crop are usually sufficient.

The area under insulated soil is usually no more than 100 sq.m. But in areas with cool summers, growing heat-loving vegetables in the open field is problematic, and they are grown only under shelters. In this case, greenhouses are needed, and their area will already be higher - up to 300 sq.m and even more. Of course, it is better to grow unrelated crops separately, for example: cucumber with zucchini in one building, and tomatoes, peppers and eggplant in another. But if there are few plants, then it is difficult to implement, and not too necessary.

Dedicated to the features of growing vegetables in greenhouses next lesson- . There we will consider in detail all the important nuances.

We build beds

The beds are made in the spring, just marking the paths. The paths between the beds should provide free passage and the ability to get your hand from the path to the middle of the beds. As a rule, for this the track width should be not less than 40-50 cm. The length of the beds themselves can be arbitrary, and the width can be convenient for work: such that the hand can be freely reached a little further than the middle of the bed. This is necessary for manual work - sowing, weeding, harvesting.

Beds for individual crops (like greenhouses) are best placed with a long side from North to South- so the plants will be better lit during the day. The number of rows of plants in the beds is arbitrary.

Usually the beds are made rectangular shape. According to their device, they can be different. So, in the south they try to make them flush with the soil surface or even deepened, and in the center of the country and in the north - raised. The edges of the beds are usually not limited to the frame, but when arranging narrow ridges according to the Mittlider or warm steam beds, a frame is made of boards or flat slate, and other materials.

Various ways of arranging ridges: recessed or raised, in a frame, and so on - it is better to master gradually. For more information about what beds are, how to build them, what are the advantages and disadvantages of various options - read the articles from the reading list for this lesson.

Under large plants (with a large bush) or creepers make wide distances between rows - from 40 to 90 cm, and between small plants, on the contrary, the aisles are reduced to 15 cm or even less. The largest row spacings require pumpkins and climbing squash- more than 1.5-2 m;

• wide aisles are needed for tomatoes, pepper, eggplant, bush squash, beans.
• narrow aisles - for beets, carrots, green crops.

Schemes for placing plants on the beds:

• roots- 6 cm between plants in a row and 10-15 cm between rows; it is also convenient to place most of green and aromatic plants;
• nightshade support will be required for each bush; place them according to the scheme 50 × 50 or 70 × 70 cm;
• early cabbage placed according to the scheme 40 × 40 cm;
• late cabbage- according to the scheme 50 × 70 cm;
• cucumber: when growing on a support, leave 25-30 cm between the bushes; when grown without a garter, 60-70 cm are left between plants, and row spacing is increased to 90-120 cm;
• bush type squash placed after 40 cm;
• climbing squash- after 70-120 cm.

Soil Requirements

The garden area should be fertile. Vegetables were traditionally grown in rural courtyards, where a lot of organic matter was introduced into the soil, but in modern garden plots there is a completely different situation, additional reclamation measures may be required - for example, when groundwater is shallow, drainage is arranged with excess water runoff into arranged reservoirs or wells.

Usually, beginners just need to fertilize in the fall:

• organic(manure, humus, composts from organic waste) at the rate of 60-100 kg per 100 sq.m;
• mineral complex where there is nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (azofoska, nitroammofoska, foskamid, autumn and others) - up to 5 kg per 100 sq.m.

Followed by dig up a plot as deep as possible, but taking into account the thickness of the fertile layer. On poor podzolic soils, instead of deep plowing, gradual plowing is carried out with a deepening of the arable horizon by 5-7 cm per year and composts from any kind of organic matter are used. Baking powders are needed only on heavy and floating soils.

Gives good results sowing perennial grasses(lucerne, clover, sainfoin) for 2-3 years and their plowing. Instead of perennial grasses, you can plow annual herbs as green manure. These can be mixtures based on barley or oats with vetch or peas. Before plowing the grass, it is necessary to grind and apply nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers on top at the rate of 1-2 kg per hundred square meters.

Compost - good organic fertilizer

Fertilization of individual vegetable crops has its own peculiarities. So, organic matter (manure, humus, compost) is added under cucumber, zucchini, late and middle cabbage, and only humus or well-decomposed compost is added under tomato, pepper, eggplant. Only mineral fertilizers are applied under onions and root crops, early cabbage.

Dedicated to fertilizers and top dressings separate lesson: . You can also find more information in the reading list for this lesson.

What is crop rotation, why is it needed and how to organize it

You cannot grow the same crops every year in the same place. Specific pathogens accumulate in the soil, pests overwinter on plant residues, the soil is unilaterally depleted, harmful substances accumulate in it - decay products that are toxic to plants.

To avoid these negative consequences, scientists came up with crop rotation- scientifically substantiated alternation of cultures in time and territory. In small areas it is difficult to apply full-fledged crop rotations, here they are more often used fruit cycle- alternation over the years of some crops with others.

During fruit change, one group of crops changes to another in terms of nutritional requirements. It is better if, after the crops under which organics were introduced, there are crops that make good use of decomposed organics, and after them - crops with predominantly mineral nutrition.

For example, like this:

1. medium and late cabbage;
2. tomato;
3. carrot.

Or like this:

1. cucumber;
2. pepper, eggplant;
3. beet.

Required for some crops early harvestable predecessor. For example, only cucumber, zucchini and greens are suitable for winter garlic, since garlic is planted in the fall, and it is also necessary to prepare the soil for it. Perennial vegetable crops are grown in open areas, where they can be more than 3-5 years in one place.

Details about the organization of crop rotation (fruit rotation) in the garden, favorable and negative combinations of crops, their correct alternation and other nuances are discussed. in one of the next lessons: .

Organization of watering in the garden

Vegetables are demanding not only for soil fertility, but also for providing moisture. Even in regions that receive sufficient rainfall, there are times when irrigation is required. Therefore, the site should be water source in the form of a centralized water supply system, a well or a container for several tons of water.

If a ground water are located closer than 60-70 cm from the surface, it is better to arrange their removal outside the site or into a drainage well. In arid regions, it is necessary to take care of artificial irrigation, creating a supply of irrigation water on the site in containers or pools.

You can supply water to the vegetable plot with a hose, a stationary pipeline, or using a drip irrigation system. It is better to choose a reinforced or corrugated hose that is resistant to kinks, lightweight polypropylene pipes that are UV-resistant, free-flow low-pressure drip lines.

But with any method of irrigation, it is necessary to determine water quality. Here it is necessary to find out the degree of mineralization, the presence of toxic salts, the pH value. Analysis can be carried out in zonal scientific institutions for agriculture or laboratories that control the quality of drinking water.

If the water meets the requirements, then it can be safely used for irrigation, but if the water is excessively saline, or contains toxic salts, or is very hard, then it is better to collect and use rainwater, use filters (which is of course expensive) - in any case, use it less.

There is rule: the toxicity of water is the less pronounced, the higher the content of organic matter in the soil.

Determine landing time

Each crop is sown and planted at its own time. If it is possible, then insulated soil is very often used to extend the time for the receipt of the crop: various types of greenhouses, greenhouses. Various films and non-woven materials are used as a translucent coating, and seedlings of heat-loving crops are planted in such facilities: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumber and zucchini, as well as such cold-resistant crops as early cabbage, cauliflower, Beijing - to obtain earlier products.

When using insulated soil, it is important that the seedlings are not only of high quality, but also certain varieties and hybrids, capable of recouping as much as possible the cost of structures and films.

Also, vegetables can be sown directly in open ground or planted seedlings. Green crops are usually sown first in the ground, followed by carrots, onions, beets, and then seedlings of heat-loving crops and cabbage are planted.

Selection of varieties- it's complicated. It is better to focus on the assortment recommended for a particular zone. There are many options and each has its pros and cons. We talked in detail about how to choose varieties of vegetables for your garden.

How to care for a vegetable garden

Garden care is loosening row spacing- usually after rains, waterings or fertilizing. As the plants develop, the loosening depth will first increase and then decrease so as not to damage the growing roots.

top dressing carried out to correct nutrition. It is better for them to use special brands of complex water-soluble fertilizers containing 5-7 trace elements. When applying fertilizers, the enclosed instructions are usually followed.

There is also a need for protection against pests, pathogens and weeds. The use of herbicides - means of weed control, in small areas is impractical. Still, they are not safe, and it is difficult not to damage the cultivated plants themselves. Manual weeding remain the most effective means of weed control.

Among plant protection products there are not only chemical, but also biological, and they should be given preference. But in the fight against especially dangerous diseases and pests, chemical protection should not be neglected. At the same time, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the regulations for the use of plant protection products, not to exceed the dose and not to shorten the waiting period - the time during which, after processing, it is impossible to work with plants and use products for food. This will be discussed in detail in one of the following lessons -.

Vegetable crops are divided into single collection and multi-collection. For multi-collection, continuous flowering and crop formation are characteristic. In crops such as tomato, pepper, eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, fruits are harvested as they reach removable maturity. Their yield increases with regular harvesting. Cabbage, root crops and onions are harvested once, when fully ripe. Many cultures practice a combination of periodic collections and one-time cleaning. In dill and lettuce, for example, you can first pick off part of the leaves, and at the end of the removable maturity, the whole plant.

Gardening is a fascinating business: as you master some issues, new, even more complex ones appear. This process is creative and akin to art.