Which floors are better screed or wooden. Which gender is best

The comfort of the residents and the durability of the building largely depend on the material from which the floor is made in a private house. When looking for a suitable option, you can not focus only on its cost. It is necessary to take into account the purpose of using the building (summer cottage or permanent housing), the capabilities of the contractor, the characteristics of the materials.

Types of floors for private houses, their advantages and disadvantages

The most commonly used flooring is wood and concrete. Currently, self-leveling floors are gaining popularity, which are often used to equip one or more rooms. What is the best material for home use? In order to make the right decision, it is necessary to consider the advantages and disadvantages of each type of coverage.

wood flooring

The tree attracts consumers with its environmental friendliness. Pros of wood floors:

when choosing a quality material, there is no need for flooring;
retain heat well;
do not create a large load on the supporting structures of the building;
a damaged board can be easily replaced with a new one;
you can change the design, because the tree lends itself well to staining.

When arranging a wooden flooring, you need to take into account the features of the building. If there is no basement in a private house, then it is better to build a double floor in order to place a layer of insulation between the rough and finish coating. As a draft layer, wooden boards of lower quality are used. Wood floors have a number of disadvantages:

for laying, it is necessary to provide additional structures - logs, which makes installation time-consuming;
it is necessary to process materials with flame retardants and special substances to reduce fire hazard and increase service life;
with high humidity in the room, the tree begins to rot;
wood is affected by rodents and insects;
when dry, cracks form and the boards crack.

Concrete floor

The popularity of concrete floors is due to their durability. The benefits also include:

quick and easy installation;
cheaper than wood
moisture resistance;
high strength;
not interesting to rodents and insects;
fire resistance.

However, concrete creates an additional load on the foundation and supporting structures of a private house, so you need to first make calculations. For wooden cottages and the second floor, a concrete floor is not the best solution. Other disadvantages:

if the installation technology is violated, the concrete may crack;
filling requires the use of rules and special beacons to control the level;
after pouring, you can not immediately start using the premises (it takes about a month to completely dry the surface);
in living rooms, concrete floors should not be left without flooring, as they are cold;
without a fine finish, the surface looks unattractive.

self-leveling floor

Self-leveling floors attract consumers with the ability to give the room an unusual and attractive look. They are made from special mixtures that can self-level after application to the surface. Advantages:

a smooth and beautiful floor is created;
the materials used relieve the owner of the need to use another decorating coating for the floors;
there are numerous design options;
you can move on the floor already 12 hours after applying the mixture;
Coatings retain heat well.

The main disadvantage is the high cost. The disadvantages of coverage also include:

the need for preliminary preparation of a concrete screed;
special equipment is required for application;
if the technology is violated, bubbles form on the surface.

Laminate, tile and other types of flooring

Flooring is the exterior finish of a floor. They are needed to give the room an attractive look and additional insulation of the premises. The imposition of a finish coating on a wooden surface allows you to make it more durable. As you can see in the photo, there are many options for flooring, presented in various colors and textures. The table provides a brief description of the most popular of them.

Name	Description	pros	Minuses
Laminate	The covering imitating wooden boards. It consists of several layers: paper impregnated with resin or paraffin, HDF, decorative and protective film. Thickness - from 6 to 12 mm.	availability of expensive and budget options; simplicity and high speed of installation; incombustibility; resistance to mechanical stress; ability to retain heat.	deteriorates from moisture; fits only on flat surfaces; reflects sounds; releases toxic fumes during fire.
Linoleum	Flexible fabric, produced in the form of rolls. It is made from natural materials or polymers.	affordable price; there are options from natural raw materials; the ability to simulate various types of surfaces; moisture resistance; easy installation; for laying does not need a perfectly flat surface; high thermal insulation; soundproofing; ease of maintenance.	heavy objects are left on the dent cover; damaged by sharp objects.
Ceramic tile	Burnt clay plates.	resistance to moisture, high temperatures and ultraviolet; non-toxicity; ease of maintenance.	beats easily; cold; installation requires professional skills; increased slip when wet.
Cork	It is made from the bark of a cork tree in the form of plates.	environmental friendliness; soundproofing; low thermal conductivity; easy to clean; no sliding effect; moisture resistance.	relatively short service life; high price; susceptibility to mechanical stress; the coating must be treated with varnish.
Wooden parquet	It has the form of plates that fit into the canvas.	naturalness; strength; retains heat; gives the room a solid look.	deteriorates under the influence of moisture; difficult to mount; gets dirty quickly requires extra care.
Carpet covering	Roll material with a fleecy surface.	insulates floors; no need to lay carpets; resistance to fading; soundproofing.	the difficulty of cleaning; accumulates dust; absorbs odors and moisture; it is necessary to additionally lay a waterproofing layer.
A rock	Stone slabs of various shapes and sizes.	strength; long service life.	weights the structure of the house; the floor surface is always cold; high installation cost.

Requirements for the floor in rooms of various types

When choosing the material and type of coating, it is necessary to take into account the purpose of the rooms. Requirements for floors in different rooms:

Hallway. A lot of dirt accumulates here. Floors are subject to high mechanical stress. You need to choose durable moisture-resistant coatings that are easy to care for.
Kitchen. The room is exposed to hot vapors, dirt often gets on the floor in the kitchen. Coatings should be moisture resistant and easy to clean.
Living rooms. For them, it is necessary to select environmentally friendly coatings that retain heat.
Bath and bathroom. These areas have high humidity. The floors in the bathroom and bathroom should be moisture resistant and not deteriorate from the effects of household chemicals.

Warm floor

Underfloor heating is a special arrangement of the heating system under the finishing floor covering. Use 2 heating systems - water and electric. Installation is carried out only on concrete floors. The top coat must not be flammable (especially when using electrical structures). Benefits of underfloor heating:

reducing the cost of heating houses and cottages;
no need to additionally install radiators;
warms cold floors (e.g. kitchen or bathroom).

However, the cost of installing underfloor heating is quite high. For installation, it is necessary to contact the services of professionals, since a mistake made will entail additional costs for rework. Electrical systems are energy intensive.

Dear reader! Your comments, suggestions or feedback will serve as a reward to the author of the material. The following video is carefully selected and will certainly help the perception of the foregoing.

Many homeowners sooner or later face the problem of replacing old flooring. Of course, this problem is not solved in an instant and is often associated with a significant waste of material resources, because any work on altering the floor is an expensive pleasure.

When starting repair work, many are wondering which of the options for arranging the floors will be more acceptable. To do this, it is necessary to consider the main options and conduct their detailed analysis.

The modern system of the construction industry offers 3 ways of arranging floors: dry and wet screed, decoration on wooden logs. These varieties are actively used at the present time, each of them has distinctive features.

Analyzing any of the methods, one should also highlight the nature of the materials used, the technology of installation work. Floor repair on logs has noticeable advantages compared to other flooring options. It is necessary to dwell in more detail on each of these options.

Cement screed: features

The cement floor screed has the following purpose:

Levels the underlying bases.
Hides the pipeline.
Evenly distributes heat-insulating loads.
Supply of rated heat recovery by floors.
Participates in the formation of slopes.

The screed involves the perfect alignment of the base, it makes it flawlessly smooth, neat and dry. The floor covering acquires a special strength, which makes subsequent operation practical and convenient.

From the point of view of technology, the screed is a wet process, which leads to wetting of the walls, ceiling, as well as the surfaces of the neighbors. In addition, it is very difficult to be and live in a room where such work is carried out.

The fact is that such repairs are often associated with dust and dirt in the room. Getting rid of this type of litter is not easy. The flooded floor dries out for a very long time, the exposure time can reach a month. A damp base will not allow the facing material to be laid on the surface for a long time.

A screed as a way of carrying out repairs in a room, even with a high-quality organization, does not allow obtaining ideal results for leveling the coating. As an addition to this, special mixtures should be used to level the base. These are self-leveling compositions, the cost of which is quite high.

In addition, the screed is distinguished by a complex process of technological installation. It involves preliminary preparation of the base, priming, setting beacons, stirring the solution, waiting for the surface to dry completely.

Having chosen this method of repairing the flooring, it is worth monitoring the quality of the work, because it is impossible to remake the finished base, and dismantling the old one will cost a significant amount, and a lot of effort will be spent.

Among the disadvantages of this design, one can single out a rather complicated calculation of the amount of material required.

Dry screed: highlights

Floor repair based on dry screed seems to be a novelty. Compared to this method with a conventional cement-sand mixture coating, the first option has significant positive indicators.

The assembly technique is characterized by cleanliness, lack of dust, litter, water. Such a floor is assembled in a short period of time. The finished base can be used immediately.

The disadvantage of this design is associated with the material used. The evenness of the coating gives finely dispersed expanded clay. However, such a base in the form of a loose substance can give uneven shrinkage, this is especially observed at the points of movement of the residents of the house, such as a corridor, aisles.

In this case, the unevenness of the floor will manifest itself even more. GVL is used as a draft version, the material is weak and easily broken, it is not able to withstand the loads acting on the floors. The points of active movement of residents begin to be crushed, cracked, squeezed. The floor is deformed, the quality of the coating suffers.

In addition, paper laid on GVL seems to be a favorable zone for the reproduction of fungi and the appearance of mold.

Before a final decision is made on the choice of floor screed, it is necessary to study its features. Giving preference to one or another type, there is no need to rush, you should weigh all aspects of this process. The table below will help clarify the main points.

Wet screed	Dry screed
The help of qualified craftsmen during installation work is needed.	The flooring process is carried out according to a simplified scheme, which allows people who are not related to the construction specialty to make the flooring.
Associated with the treatment of the entire surface in a short period of time. The solution quickly hardens, after which it will be impossible to use it for work.	Dry coating is laid by going through several stages, gradually laying the floor.
Floor repairs associated with the use of cement are characterized by poor heat retention and insufficient insulation from extraneous sounds.	Expanded clay is distinguished by a good degree of heat retention and excellent sound insulation properties.
Wet screed does not allow other coatings to be placed on the surface, except for the floor base.	Using such natural qualities of expanded clay as flowability, any communications, heated floors, electrical wires can be placed at the base.

Wooden floors on logs

To answer the question of which is better - a floor on logs or a screed, it is necessary to understand the design features of each of these sides, highlighting their positive and negative points. So, a wooden base in the classical sense seems to be an actively used type of floor base, as well as a cement screed.

The main positive aspects of using the structure on the logs are:

the ability to create a perfectly smooth surface;
significant savings in material resources and forces;
capacity building for the construction in the subfield of various communications, electrical wiring and engineering systems;
good indicators of heat preservation and protection from extraneous sounds;
lowering the degree of load on old floors in a residential building;
the ability to build ceilings in several levels.

The device of the floor on the logs is characterized by a weak technological basis.

Such structures are characterized by the fact that they are mounted on any form, bars, bricks, roofing material can act as it. They are fixed with anchor bolts by one of the most elementary methods.

In order for the floor to acquire impeccable evenness indicators, it is necessary to use a laser level. Other tools will not give the desired results. The weak point of such a base will be a frame anchor or a polypropylene nail, which simply cannot withstand the weight of the entire device. As a rule, after 3 months, such a design begins to weaken, squeaks appear.

An experienced craftsman should carry out the installation of the floor on the logs, because such work requires experience and is distinguished by special jewelry, the subtlety of the process. Not every person can lay such a structure on lining material of different dimensions and unequal thickness, observing construction standards and adhering to the same level.

However, even if the floor is laid incorrectly, it can always be disassembled, while the materials will remain intact. Installing a new building is not at all difficult.

For wooden floors, logs, plywood, floor boards are taken. Wood raw material is absolutely clean from the point of view of ecology, it does not change for a significant period of time. The gap between the floor and the base contains an air cushion, there is a constant circulation of air, thanks to which the integrity and excellent condition of the materials will be ensured.

Adjustable floors: characteristics

Floor repairs associated with adjustable structures characterize the positive qualities of a conventional cement screed, a dry version and classic wooden bases. However, it also has disadvantages. As for the assembly, it is carried out in a short time, there is no any dust, dirt, wetting of the surface.

As a result, the base acquires a fortress, smoothness, it is ready for laying any floor covering. The floor, finished with wood, has a warmer base and allows for communications of any kind.

Adjustable designs are based on a simple way of carrying out installation work. In the process of using a laser level, you can get perfect indicators regarding the smoothness of the surface. The anchor used in the repair secures the structure as tightly as possible. Logs and plywood are fixed with washers, lock nuts, which ensures a good result. The help of a specialist in this matter will be superfluous. Assembling the floor resembles the construction of a conventional structure, the stages of work are simple and clear.

Adjustable floors actively use wood as materials, and, as you know, such a base guarantees excellent quality of the coating, which is manifested in its excellent performance, which distinguishes it from gypsum, cement and expanded clay.

After some comparison, you should decide which is better. However, often the arrangement of floors depends on certain conditions, operation and your capabilities. The choice is yours. Good luck!

At the very beginning of the repair, we are faced with a choice: use a cement-sand screed or a wooden floor? And what is the difference between them, we will now figure it out.

Price

A screed is a reliable option for installing a subfloor. To pour a 5 cm thick screed, you will need 0.5 bags of cement and 1.5 bags of sand. The cost of cement is about 300 rubles for a 50 kg bag, a bag of sand of the same weight will cost about 50 rubles. It turns out that one m2 of screed will cost about 225 rubles. The cost of work is approximately 250 rubles per m2. In total, you can meet 500 rubles per 1 m2 of screed. This is the cost of materials.

Now consider the wooden floor. We take as a basis a dry timber 100x100 mm in increments of 40 cm. Above - OSB 18 mm thick. The cost of OSB is approximately 1.8 tr. per sheet, one sheet - 3 m2 (or 600 rubles per m2). The cost of dry timber is approximately 16,000 rubles per m3. For 1 m2 of floor it will take 2.5 meters of timber (this is 0.025 m3 or 400 rubles). It turns out that the material will cost 1000 rubles per 1 m2 + the cost of carpenter services 250 rubles per 1 m2, total - 1250 rubles per 1 m2 of wooden floor.

Communications

In modern houses, the heating, water supply and sewerage systems are laid exclusively in the floor. If you have a rush, then the wooden floors can be sawn quite quickly and simply, while the screed will have to be hammered, and the dust will stand like a pillar. Timing

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the date of pouring, with 70% strength already in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it, but few people follow this technology.

The wooden floor can be used immediately after the last screw is tightened, without worrying about any consequences.

Durability

If a non-professional is engaged in laying a wooden floor, then in a week or two a creak under your feet will appear. Even the most inept person can make a screed, because of this it will not creak or crack. If the screed is of poor quality, you will easily notice it already in the first week at the stage of rough work. It will start to crack or bulge.

Weight

Weight 1 m2 OSB 18 mm thick - 12 kg. Wooden logs (1 m2) weigh approximately 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. In total, approximately 40 kg weighs 1 m2 of a wooden floor.

1 m2 of screed with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg. And if you choose what material to raise to the floor, then, it would seem, the choice should fall on the tree. But this opinion is wrong. Bags weighing 50 kg can be transported in any elevator, whether it is a new building or a panel house. The tree will have to be carried up the stairs, since it simply does not fit in the elevator.

Ecology

There is no need to talk about the environmental friendliness of materials. Since what is cement, what is OSB is the chemistry of pure water. But manufacturers will issue certificates without any problems that both can be given to children for breakfast.

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Unique cherry (bush varieties)

Tiled and self-leveling floors on wooden floors cannot be made without a leveling screed.

Leveling a wooden base can be done from a wet cement-sand mortar, a semi-dry mixture with fiber, GVL, or Knauf floor slabs over a layer of insulation.

Figure 1. Screed on a wooden floor.

Feature of the screed device on a wooden floor

The cement-sand screed, after drying and gaining strength, turns into a monolithic slab that is not subject to linear changes. A tree has the ability to expand or shrink under the influence of humidity and temperature changes. The screed connected to the base, under the influence of unstable wooden structures, will crack and collapse.

Therefore, the main condition when constructing a concrete screed on a wooden base is its isolation from wooden structures. So that the screed solution does not touch the wood of the walls and floor.

In addition, the screed should not overload the ceiling too much.

Preparation of the base for the screed

Before deciding to pour a concrete screed over a wooden floor, carefully examine the subfloor. Check the condition of the log and floor boards.

The wooden coating must be rigid and durable, not have traces of mold, rotting.

If the coating does not inspire confidence, you can strengthen it by installing additional logs, or replacing worn floorboards.

Figure 2. Repair of a wooden floor.

Before installing a leveling screed on a repaired wooden base, we carry out preparatory measures:

We close up large gaps and junctions to the walls with epoxy putty or mounting foam. After hardening, we cut off the excess sealant, grind the irregularities.
We clean the floor surface from debris and dust and treat it with an antiseptic, and then with a primer twice.
To the walls, along the perimeter of the room, we attach the damper tape to the double-sided tape. It will separate the concrete floor from the wood wall. The tape should be wider than the height of the screed by 5-10 centimeters.

You can use foamed polystyrene or a wooden board for these purposes.

We lay a dense polyethylene film, at least 100 microns thick, separating the screed and floor boards. We overlap the strips of film, fastening them together with adhesive tape, with a 15-20 cm approach to the walls.

Figure 3. Wood floor insulation.

We strictly monitor the integrity of the coating to ensure the tightness of the insulation. Moisture must not be allowed to enter the wooden floors, both during the installation of the screed and during the operation of the coating.

A wet screed, arranged on a wooden floor, must be reinforced. To do this, we lay a steel mesh on the insulated surface, with a cell of 10x10. When pouring, the mesh should fall into the array of the screed, so it is better to lay it on supports from the solution.

Important!
A semi-dry screed does not require additional reinforcement, since the reinforcing fiber is part of the solution.

Using a laser or hydraulic level, we mark the height of the screed. To do this, we transfer the horizon line to the wall. It can be at a height of one meter from the floor. Then, using measurements, we find the highest point of the floor and from it, adding three centimeters of the thickness of the screed, we find the mark of the surface of the screed. We transfer this line to the wall along the perimeter of the premises.
We set guide beacons along the insulating layer, along which the screeds will be aligned. We make them from a solution, in the form of continuous strips, or a steel profile mounted on slides from a solution. You can not screw the profile to the base with self-tapping screws, so as not to violate the integrity of the insulation.

The height of the beacons is regulated strictly according to the level, pressing the slats into the mixture or adding a solution under them.

We arrange the first row of lighthouses at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the wall, and the next - after 1-1.5 meters from each other, but not more than the length of the rule.

Filling the screed can only be started after the solution of the beacons has dried.

Semi-dry screed device

A semi-dry screed is made from cement, sand, modifying additives and reinforcing fibers. The minimum amount of water is added to the mixture, necessary only for the hydration of the cement.

It is necessary to perform such a screed in strict accordance with the manufacturing technology and building regulations. following a certain sequence.

Solution preparation

The solution, in large quantities, is prepared at the construction site, in a pneumatic blower. This device performs the function of a mortar mixer and a concrete pump. With its use, there is no need for lifting mechanisms.

Figure 4. Manufacture and supply of solution using a pneumatic blower.

All components of the solution are loaded into the container of the device, in a certain sequence and thoroughly mixed. Under the pressure of compressed air, the mixture is fed through a hose to the place of work.

For uniform distribution of the mixture coming through the hose, special dampers are used.

Mortar, directly at the installation site, can be prepared in a mortar mixer or in a container using a construction mixer.

It is better to use ready-made dry mix in bags for such purposes.

If it is not there, we take cement and sand, in a ratio of one to three, and while mixing, gradually add fiber, at the rate of about 700 grams of fiber, per cubic meter of solution.

At the end of the process, add a little water and mix until smooth.

Styling can be facilitated by adding plasticizers to the finished mixture.

Important!
We check the correctness of the consistency by squeezing a small amount of the mixture in a fist. The finished solution should turn into a dense lump that does not release water when compressed.

Screed device

It is necessary to lay the semi-dry mixture strictly according to the installed beacons, starting from the far wall of the room.

We level and compact the mortar with the help of a rule and a vibrating screed, carefully filling all the joints.

Two hours after laying, the beacons can be removed, and the resulting cavities can be sealed with a solution.

Figure 5. Grouting a semi-dry screed.

Rub the entire screed with a disc grinder. Rub the corners and junctions to the walls with a trowel. At the same time, it is better to move along a freshly laid screed in special concrete shoes in order to avoid its punching and damage.

If the room is more than 20 square meters, we cut expansion joints along the surface of the screed.

After grouting, the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even.

After a day, you can walk on the screed, and after three to four days, you can start finishing.

A semi-dry screed is an ideal base for tiles or other coatings on a wooden base.

It has many advantages over wet or dry screed:

the finished coating is highly durable and resistant to abrasion;
due to the semi-dry porous structure, much lighter than a wet screed, its device does not significantly load wooden structures;
has high soundproofing and thermal performance;
the use of a minimum amount of water mixed with reinforcing fiber, eliminates the formation of cracks and shrinkage of the finished screed;
dirty wet processes and ingress of water from the solution onto the ceiling and lower floors are excluded;
Modern technology and efficient equipment allows the production of large volumes of semi-dry screed in a short time.

The permissible thickness of a semi-dry screed is from three to five centimeters.

It is possible to perform a semi-dry screed on the underfloor heating system.

In this case, it is necessary to lay expanded polystyrene on a wooden base, and then roll insulation with a foil layer.

Figure 6. Scheme of the device of the underfloor heating system in the screed on a wooden floor.

Place the underfloor heating cable system on the insulation.

Recommend!
When installing underfloor heating systems in wooden houses, it is better to give preference to heating mats or an infrared heater in the form of a film with heating elements that can be laid on the finished screed in a layer of tile adhesive.

Wet screed

Wet technology screed is made of cement and sand, in a ratio of 1:3 with the addition of water, to a plastic, creamy state.

Such a screed requires careful waterproofing of the base, which prevents the penetration of water from the mortar onto wooden structures.

The solution is prepared directly at the place of pouring and is laid in an even layer over the beacons.

On a wooden floor, a wet screed device is undesirable for the following reasons:

due to gravity, a wet screed requires a hard and solid base;
the wet process increases the humidity in the house, which is not desirable for wooden structures;
with minor damage to the film waterproofing, water from the screed can enter the wooden base and lower floors;
wet screed requires mandatory reinforcement, which additionally makes the structure heavier;
the period of drying and curing of the wet screed is 28 days;
the entire drying period, a wet screed requires care: protection from drafts and moisture.

Figure 7. Installation of a wet cement-sand screed.

Dry screed device on a wooden base

A dry screed consists of a layer of insulation and a hard coating of GVL, GKL or special two-layer slabs for the floor of the Knauf system.

Expanded clay of various fractions, rigid mineral slabs or Penoplex can be used as a heater.

Under the expanded clay we lay a layer of waterproofing made of dense polyethylene, 200 microns thick, so that it is not damaged when filling and ramming the expanded clay.

Important!
We put polyethylene on the walls 10-15 centimeters above the screed mark and fix it with construction tape. Polyethylene strips are overlapped and glued together with adhesive tape.

We mark the height of the expanded clay layer using a laser level. We transfer the marks to the walls along the perimeter of the premises.

We install beacons from a metal profile for drywall. Lighthouses are verified strictly according to the building level marks.

We pour a layer of expanded clay, carefully compacting and leveling with a long rail. We fill and ram the junctions to the walls.

Figure 8. GVL screed device for expanded clay.

A day later, on the compacted expanded clay layer, we lay plasterboard sheets or floor slabs of the KNAUF system.

In the case of using sheets, lay out the first layer on the surface of expanded clay, leaving deformation gaps between the sheets of 1 millimeter, with an offset in the seams.

We cover the first layer with glue and lay the second layer of sheets on it, also shifting the seams by at least 30-40 centimeters. We fasten the layers together with self-tapping screws.

When using ready-made Knauf panels, we lay them on a compacted surface and fasten them with special locking joints.

Seams, joints and recesses from self-tapping screws are sealed with putty, sanded and coated with two layers of primer.

Advantages of dry screed:

perfectly flat base
excellent sound and heat insulation due to expanded clay;
light weight does not require structural reinforcement;
the surface is ready for finishing immediately after laying;

Figure 9. Diagram of a GVL screed device on a wooden base.

The only drawback of a dry screed with insulation is its large thickness, which does not allow it to be used in rooms with low ceilings.

Which screed to choose

In the presence of a strong and rigid wooden base, it is better to choose a semi-dry floor screed.

It will not load the ceiling too much, water from the screed will not get on the wooden structures, even if the integrity of the waterproofing is violated. Creates a solid base for laying any fine floor covering.

When leveling floors in old and dilapidated wooden houses, preference should be given to a dry coating. A dry screed is suitable if it is necessary to insulate the floor of the first floor or the ceiling above an unheated basement.

If you decide to make a screed on a wooden floor, contact the experts who will help you choose the best option for leveling your floor and perform the work efficiently, quickly and professionally.

In the modern construction market at the moment there are many floor coverings, but, as before, the basis for them can only be of two types: concrete or wood. This article provides instructions for arranging the foundation with your own hands, a comparative analysis of the merits of these coatings will also be given, and which floors are better than wood or concrete for you, you can decide for yourself by analyzing this article.

Wooden floor

Logs can be based on brick or concrete posts, laid on a foundation or attached to walls. Further on each method in more detail.

Lag installation

Lags are laid on the posts in buildings with a large quadrature. The step between the columns is from 70 cm to 1m. Leave about 60 cm between rows.
Before erecting columns, a layer of soil should be removed, as a rule, the fertile layer is removed, or the soil is simply removed 20 - 30 cm below the soil level around the house.
Next, we mark the places for the columns and make a small foundation for each column., as a blind area, we fill in gravel with sand and lay brick columns 1.5 or 2 bricks wide on the mortar.
It should be laid with a well, the internal space is reinforced and poured with concrete. You can simply make a formwork for a column measuring 50x50 cm, install a reinforcing mesh and pour concrete.

All columns are set horizontally. On top of them, a waterproofing of 2 - 3 layers of roofing material is laid.
After that, you should make a blind area. It can be made from gravel, crushed stone or sand, in some regions of our country, where there are metallurgical plants, it is cheaper to fill up dump slag. The blind area is covered in layers and rammed, it should rise above the ground by 200 mm.
Next, we lay the logs at the level with an entry to the foundation of 100 mm, be sure to leave a gap of 20 mm between the joists and the wall.
If the building is small, then you can do without the installation of columns, but in this case, the logs are taken with a larger section or logs are used as load-bearing beams.
The support bearing beams must be laid on the foundation piercing or framing by at least 100 mm, plus 20 mm for the damper gap. If the foundation is narrow and there is not enough support, then the beam cuts into the wall to the missing depth, but not more than half the wall. You can attach special metal supporting structures to the wall and lay beams on them.

Floor installation

When the logs are laid, we begin to mount the floor. Coverage can be single or double.

We will consider a more capital double, since a single cover is an unfinished double.

Important: all wood that goes to the floor must be treated with protective solutions.
For a finished floor, they should be colorless; a rough floor covering is the cheapest way to process engine oil.

Initially, you need to fill the cranial beam 40x40 mm at the bottom of the lag. Planks of the first level of the rough coating are laid on it, it is not necessary to nail them, since only insulation will lie on them. As a rule, a slab or an unedged board is taken.
Further, as a waterproofing, polyethylene is covered and fastened with a stapler. Insulation is placed on it in the openings between the lags, the best option is mineral or glass wool. The level of insulation should be 15 mm lower than the level of the finishing coating.
The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier and a finishing floor is mounted on top.
For an interfloor overlap, where the floor of the upper floor is the ceiling of the lower one, an edged board is initially attached to the logs from below with self-tapping screws, you can fill it with lining or other finishing material.
Next, a vapor barrier is laid on top, a heater is laid on it and covered with another layer of vapor barrier. After that, a 5.5 mm soundproof gasket should be laid on the logs, it can be a cork or foamed polyethylene and a fine, wooden coating is already spreading on it.

concrete base

Concrete warping is more durable and therefore, at present, most buildings are made in this way. But concrete has one serious disadvantage, it is cold. In this regard, the concrete base can be insulated by itself or an insulated top coat is laid on top, for example, a wooden floor on a concrete base.

Installation of concrete screed

When building a private house, the best option is to use reinforced concrete floor slabs. But if the house is old and stands on the ground, then it would be reasonable to pour a concrete screed on the 1st floor. To do this, remove the old coating to the ground.
Next, we fill it with gravel or sand in layers and tamp the blind area. After that, a layer of waterproofing is laid on it.
After that, a reinforcing structure is mounted in order to stiffen the base. We set the metal beacons horizontally on the reinforcement, according to the level. Next, fill the solution and align it with the beacons.
Such a floor screed will harden for at least a month; after hardening, wooden floors can be mounted on concrete.
If floor slabs act as a base, then after removing the old base and cleaning, the level of curvature of the base should be measured. If the difference in height does not exceed 35 - 40 mm, then self-leveling mixtures can be used, they are poured simply and quickly, plus they freeze in a maximum of 10 days.
Before pouring, you need to putty all joints and cracks on the plane and cover the floor with several layers of soil for waterproofing. You can cover with polyethylene.
If the curvature along the plane is greater, then it is more expedient to pour a cement-sand screed along the beacons, because the price of self-leveling mixtures is quite high.

Important: pouring the screed with your own hands for several days, carefully control the joints between fillings.
Because due to the temperature difference between the cooled solution and the fresh one, an influx can form.

If you plan to lay tiles on a screed or subsequent installation of a warm floor system, then it makes sense to insulate the screed initially. To do this, waterproofing is laid on the base, and expanded polystyrene plates are laid on it. For floors on the ground, a slab with a thickness of about 50 mm is taken, for overlapping with a warm lower floor, 20 mm is enough or penofol is covered.
A reinforcing mesh is laid on the insulation and the solution is poured.

Important: regardless of what you mount, fill in the screed, install logs or lay the finish coat.
It is necessary to leave a damper gap, otherwise all work can be hopelessly spoiled.

When your screed is ready, you can already lay any coating on it, depending on your desire and capabilities.
Under linoleum, you need to cover the surface several times with soil and you can lay it. Under the laminated floor or parquet, waterproofing is laid, the substrate is laid and the coating is mounted.
But if your ceiling height allows, we advise you to equip the flooring on the logs. To do this, cover the concrete base with waterproofing, set the logs horizontally on it. In this case, under the logs, a beam with a section of 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm is sufficient, with a step of 30 - 50 cm.
A heater is laid between the lags and covered with a vapor barrier, and the gap between the heater and the upper deck should be about 5 mm.
Further, we advise you to make flooring from thick plywood or OSB boards; in rooms with high humidity, you can lay DSP boards. The flooring is done in 2 layers with a run between the plates. After installation is completed, any finish coating can be laid on such a warm flooring.

Comparative analysis

Of course, a wooden floor is more environmentally friendly, its price is often lower than concrete, it is warm and reliable, but short-lived. And there is a possibility that your descendants, having decided to change sex, will remember you "not with an evil quiet word."

In our opinion, it is more reasonable to make a combined version of the coating, in other words, the base is poured from reliable, durable concrete, and then you make slab flooring on logs. If necessary, it can be torn off and an economical warm water floor or other coating of your choice can be installed in its place.