How to make a coffee table with your own hands from improvised materials. How and from what to make a coffee table with your own hands (50 photos)

To begin with, a lover of self-made furniture should learn how to create a stool, since this is the easiest. And then comes the time to study the issue of creating a table.

Table designs vary, however, the simple version is very similar to the process of making a stool.

A simple table for use in the country or during a picnic can be assembled in just a few hours. To do this, you need a hacksaw, hammer or drill.

However, a table based on a similar approach can also be made for living quarters. Because it is able to perfectly replace the current very large version bought at a retail outlet or furniture store.

The process of self-creation of the table is also interesting from the other side, since with the help of it there is freedom of the author's creative expression. It can be imagined as a noticeable element of the interior of the room.

The creators of handmade amateur furniture are called carpenters for a reason. They do not apply the usual definition like: sofas or bedside tables, or maybe cabinets.

Having gained experience in this area, over time it will be possible to create exclusive types of tables with advanced characteristics.

Now consider the issue of self-creation of tables based on wood.

Wood is distinguished by its purity and availability, in addition, it is not as difficult to process as other materials. It conveys the maximum energy of the aesthetic filling of the style of the living room.

Due to its properties, it is condescending to the mistakes of beginners in the field of self-creation of furniture. However, thinner versions of the tables will require an advanced level of skill.

To begin with, having learned how to work with wooden things, then it will be easier to use as a material: glass, plastic or even metal.

Selection of tools and premises for work

To engage in the independent creation of tables or other wooden furniture elements, it is necessary to use only non-residential premises.

This is due to the specifics of working with wood. It leads to the formation of a large amount of dust, chips and other waste.

And the process of toning or creating protection for a stain-based material can form dangerous emissions into the air. Actually, nitro-varnishes can also be dangerous.

Because of this, for a personal carpentry workshop, you will have to take care of airing the room. Experts advise creating artificial ventilation of the room.

Many people use the garage for this, however, production waste can pollute or damage the car because of this, this is not the best option.

Carpentry tools belong to modern and traditional types

For the most part, you can start with a simple carpentry tool, however, later modern versions may be required in the form of:

• A rotary version of the miter box, which helps to create saw cuts based on two planes, adhering to the required size.

• This tool will reveal all its useful properties, first of all, with a bow saw. This couple is considered universal, it can be useful for many jobs.

• A manual version of the universal electric jigsaw, featuring a tilting shoe to help create cuts based on the desired angle in relation to the vertical plane.

• Disc version of the grinder. It will help beginners complete the surface treatment of wood in about 5-15 minutes. An experienced carpenter, along with sandpaper, can do the same job in about an hour.

And there is also a conventional belt grinder for grooves with recessed places, which is distinguished by a protruding version of the working part.

Such tools are distinguished by the price and narrow specialization of the work, experienced craftsmen recommend taking them for a short rental period.

The best specialists, using various sanding machines, can even create the effect of artificial aging of wood, however, this is a very difficult job, as for beginners.

Which tree is the best?

To create a wooden table, any wood that has an average resistance to the rotting process will work well, however, you should refrain from softer versions like poplar, willow, ailanthus, aspen, and even alder.

From domestic types of wood it is best to use:

• soft options in the form of pine, fir, cedar, horse chestnut, plane tree, juniper or spruce.

• solid in the form of an ideal oak, suitable for many works of beech, maple, walnut or ash, larch, as well as fruit species represented by apples, plums, pears, apricots and quince. And also here it is worth including elm and mountain ash.

• rather hard species based on acacia, yew, stone birch, dogwood and boxwood.

Conclusion

You want to decorate the table and probably all types of furniture created by yourself with an artistic version of the painting, and not with ordinary stripes.

However, over time, the pattern may deteriorate, so that this does not happen, it is necessary to rub the paint into the depth of the tree before the varnishing process. This can be done on the basis of technology - glazing. We are talking about layer-by-layer rubbing of the paints used.

DIY table photo

Coffee table can be just a functional surface, or it can become an excellent decorative interior detail.

The table made of natural tree. You can buy it at the store or make on one's own.

Magazine tables, handmade, decorate in various ways, sometimes turning an ordinary piece of furniture into a masterpiece design thoughts.

Coffee table options

View, the size and decor of the coffee table can be perfectly different. The only limit is your imagination.
Most common and available in the manufacture of tables:

• square or a rectangular wooden table;
• round and oval table;
• table transformer;
• glass table;
• table from combined materials (e.g. glass and wood).

Note! A set of two or three tables will make sitting in the living room even more comfortable: each guest will have a personal surface for a cup of coffee or a glass of wine.

What to make a table

materials, which are used to make magazines tables:

• wood(solid array, timber);
• hemp;
• glued panels;
• plywood;
• glass.

But on my own make coffee table can be not only from traditional materials. Tables made from henchmen funds and old things such as suitcase, window frame, large coil, pallets, etc.

Important! If you choose a glass table, make sure that it is made of high quality tempered glass, which will ensure the reliability, strength and safety of the product.

Materials and tools

The most beautiful and various the shape of the tables are obtained from wood, chipboard or MDF. The material for the coffee table should calculate in advance.
For a simple table, the following are enough elements:

• bars for legs (4 pcs.);
• thick board, panel or a sheet of plywood for countertops;
• corner mounts for connecting the tabletop with legs (4 pcs.);

For round coffee table you will need:

• 2 round details from chipboard or MDF (tabletop and support for the wheels of the table). Diameter 60 cm;
• rectangular pieces for legs(2 pcs.). Size 60 x 40 cm;
• wheels(4 things.).
• putty for wood;
• glue carpentry (for wood).

You must also purchase impregnation And varnish so that both pollution and give the product beautiful appearance.

In addition, to make a coffee table, you will need the following: instruments:

• hammer;
• nails;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• corner mounts(not necessary);
• Master OK.

Round coffee table

Must be ordered in advance details from fiberboard or MDF. Can do them on their own, but it should be noted that the table top and castor support must be ideal forms. This will give the coffee table a sophisticated and careful view.

Stages of work

Step 1. In rectangular shapes, you need to make small cuts in the center to fit them into each other. Cuts are made according to thick sheets of chipboard (MDF).

Step 2 We connect the rectangles with the help of cuts. Lubricate the joints with carpentry glue. This is necessary so that the parts of the table hold firmly.

Step 3 We apply from above countertop. We pin it to the legs with thin nails. One is enough for a small table nail in the middle and one nail for each leg.

Step 4 Turn the table over and nail the support for wheels. We also use glue and 5 nails.

Step 5 Carefully cover the nail heads putty.

Step 6 Processing the coffee table impregnation for a tree. We cover with varnish or paint.

Step 7 When is the last layer varnish or the paint is completely dry, you can screw the wheels.

The coffee table can be left in this state, or you can additionally decorate.

Important! Before you start assembling the table, you should paste over the ends of all parts made of chipboard, chipboard, MDF with a melamine edge.

Coffee table-transformer

This table will fit perfectly into the design of any room and will save a lot of space, and if necessary, it can easily turn from a coffee table into dining. The disadvantage of the transformer is difficult assembly. Consider manufacturing such a table.

First you need to decide on mechanism upon which all will be built. assembly. Mechanisms of domestic production cheaper, foreign ones are more expensive.

The design of the transformer comes with backlash and with springs.

Stages of work

Step 1. Acquisition of a transformer mechanism.

Important! Mechanisms for a transformer are available in different types and sizes, so when choosing, you should consider the dimensions of your future table.

Step 2 Using the simulation program, we create layout table that is right for you. Suitable for this programs PRO100 or Google's Sketch Up: Lightweight, with intuitive controls, so it's easy to figure them out. Creating a layout will take 2-3 hours.

Step 3 cutting details You can also do it with the program. She calculates all the necessary materials, which greatly simplifies our work. Having received everything sizes, sawing the details.

Step 4 Table assembly. frame our table will be assembled using confirmations(screeds for connecting parts made of wood materials). For this you need to do hole special drill. Marking is more convenient to do with a pencil or using ordinary stickers.

Step 5 Further, in accordance with the transformer mechanism attached instruction attach it to our frame. Before that, you need to insert springs.
We fasten with a simple through way due to the heavy weight of the mechanism.

Drilling holes for the bolts and with a special drill we drill places for the heads of the bolts.

We strengthen transformer with bolts.

Step 6 Fasten in a similar way mechanism on the other hand.

Step 7 Collecting legs. The weight of our table is approx. 50 kg therefore, it is necessary to fasten the legs of the table together with ordinary furniture screeds.

Step 8 We will screw our legs to the frame of the table. We make markings and drill holes.

Step 9 We fasten all the legs to the frame. legs hid all working moments of the table.

Step 10 Manufacturing countertops. The tabletop is the most main part of the table. Choosing durable hinges for table top. The hinge holes are small. Screw in the hinges.

As a result, after screwing all the countertops to the mechanism, we get such a transforming coffee table:

Product finishing

Decorate coffee table can be completely different ways. To give the product charm, you can decorate it using the technique decoupage, decorate with shells and others unusual items.

Ideas for decoration:

• thick rope- a rope along the edge as a edging;
• Mosaic from various glass objects;
• painting on wood;
• Pasting with wooden pads;
• Craquelure(artificial aging of the surface of the table);
• Pasting with decorative mirrors;
• Veneering(pasting with decorative film).

For how to make a round solid wood coffee table, see video:

Even a novice master can make a table from improvised materials. But before assembling a coffee table with your own hands, it is better to view the drawings and diagrams in advance. This will allow you to decide on the shape of future furniture and cut off too complex options.

Do-it-yourself drawings and diagrams of coffee tables

It is comfortable, lightweight and versatile. For the rigidity of the frame, the underframe is assembled from legs and a drawer - a rectangle connecting the legs and supporting the tabletop. Otherwise, the legs will move apart and the table will lose its stability.

At the same time, the complexity of the assembly does not increase much, but now you can store books, notebooks or other trinkets in the coffee table.

A feature of this design is the absence of legs - they are replaced by four sidewalls, to which a ready-made folding mechanism is attached from the inside. To it, on a short pair of supports, a wide board is fixed - the underframe, and a double tabletop is attached to the high supports, which, in the unfolded version, rests on the underframe.

PVC pipe magazine table

The simplest and most economical, but very original version of a coffee table is to make it from plastic pipes. The shape and height depend only on the wild imagination. It can be a small round table that functions as a bedside table or a full-fledged coffee table with a glass top.

To create it you will need:

• pipes of two diameters - thicker for the legs and narrower for the underframe, for example, 16 and 9 mm;
• glue gun or a tube of transparent superglue;
• medium grit sandpaper;
• hacksaw for cutting plastic pipes (can be replaced with a saw for wood);
• acrylic paint to hide the printed markings on the pipes.

The process itself is simple to disgrace:

1. Cylinders of the selected length are cut. 4 legs are made from a thick pipe - their length will be equal to the height of the future table (40-50 cm). 30 short cylinders are cut from a narrow pipe, on average 10-15 cm (depending on the shape of the table, the number can be changed).
2. You need to start assembling the base from the center - so there will definitely not be large gaps between the cylinders. Glue is applied to the entire surface of the adjacent pipes. A little trick - to accurately glue the cylinders, liquid superglue is poured from the end of the pipes so that it stacks down the entire length of the joint. With a glue gun, the joints are simply processed from the outside - after painting they will become invisible.
3. When the desired shape is reached, the legs are glued - you need to make sure that the diagonal distance between them is equal. Otherwise, the table will fall on one side.
4. The final step is painting. The easiest way to do this is with an aerosol method, although you can also use a simple paint brush.

When laying a glass top on your table, you should choose tempered glass with a thickness of 10 mm. To prevent the removable tabletop from sliding on the base, use silicone shock absorbers for furniture.

If a non-removable countertop is planned, it is fixed with transparent silicone glue.

Assembling a wooden coffee table with your own hands

For admirers of the classic style, there is nothing better than a wooden table. For him, you need to stock up:

• planed bar 40x40 mm - for legs;
• planed board 50x20 mm - for the side;
• a finished worktop made of furniture board 800x400 mm (but MDF or plywood is also suitable);
• putty for wood - overwrite holes from self-tapping screws;
• sandpaper or a grinding nozzle on a drill - process wood;
• varnish or paint - for finishing the table.

Of the tools you will need a screwdriver (or screwdriver), a saw for wood and a drill. After cutting the bar into legs, and the boards into the drawer side, the assembly of the table itself begins:

1. The underframe is assembled first. For convenience and ease of assembly, everything is done upside down. Sidewalls to the legs are attached obliquely with self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes. But you can also use metal corners if aesthetics are not so important.

Wooden tables are not only made from planed wood. With minimal woodworking skills, you can create original furniture even from firewood. For example, picking up a wooden block of suitable height and a pair of Y-shaped thick branches, working a little with a grinding nozzle and varnishing everything, you get an excellent massive coffee table for a summer residence.

And if after the construction of the house there are several euro pallets left, there is no need to rush to dispose of them. It's almost a finished table!

It is enough to grind and stain the surface, put them one on top of the other and securely connect them together. And to make the table mobile, 4 wheels are screwed from below, 2 of which are with brakes.

Decorating a coffee table with epoxy resin

If there is a sawmill nearby and there you can get a sawn board with a lot of defects for nothing - just great! It is from such materials that the most beautiful tables decorated with epoxy resin are obtained.

The process is time consuming but not overly complicated:

1. The cut board is glued with wood glue into the countertop. Flat boards must be placed under the clamps - for uniform fixation.



2. After the glue has completely dried, the tabletop is polished, all cracks and holes from knots are cleaned. Before applying epoxy, the surface must be cleaned of dust and small chips.



3. To make the table glow effectively, use luminescent paint in powder. About 100 g of paint is needed for 2 liters of the finished resin solution. Resin and hardener are mixed 1:1, the dose should be measured accurately and so that the hand does not flinch. Too much hardener will cause the resin to crack, while a lack of hardener will delay the curing period.

Such a tabletop is suitable for a coffee table in the living room of a cottage, and in the bedroom of a city apartment.

If there are several meters of wooden bars left at home, you can even make a table out of them! The video shows in detail and clearly how to make unusual designer furniture from building debris:

How and from what to make a cool table with your own hands

Many people dream of decorating the interior of their apartment with exclusive interesting designer pieces of furniture. There are a huge number of such interior items in stores, but their prices are often simply fabulous. With a little effort, some things can be done on your own. For example, various improvised materials make excellent coffee tables that will become a real decoration of any interior and a source of pride for homeowners.

Table in a marine style

In order to make a marine-style coffee table yourself, you will need an old window frame, which must first be cleaned of dust and dirt. Then, if necessary, insert new glass into the frame, clean the surface of the structure from paint and sand it. The surface of the frame should be covered with acrylic paint or white enamel.

To make the legs, you will need a cutting, which must be cut into 4 equal parts. To remove all roughness and irregularities, the surfaces of the legs should be treated with sandpaper. As a base, you can use a furniture board or board, the width of which does not exceed the width of the window frame. The legs are attached to the base with long self-tapping screws. Also, the base with legs is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Since the frame is an empty transparent box that can be filled with marine-themed attributes: pebbles, shells and souvenirs brought from vacation. In order for the table to have a complete look, its legs can be braided with a thin rope.

A table from a suitcase

The original table will turn out from an old suitcase. For such a piece of furniture, you will need to purchase furniture legs. They can be either metal or wood. If you use special wheels, you can get the original model of a mobile coffee table. You will also need a screwdriver, screws and a piece of plywood for work.

First of all, it is necessary to cut a rectangle out of plywood, the dimensions of which must correspond to the width and length of the bottom of the suitcase. Plywood is laid on the bottom of the suitcase and markings are made for the legs. Using a screwdriver and screws, the legs are attached to the base of the suitcase. Then, felt is glued to the base, inside the suitcase. The table is ready.
There are many different options for turning an old suitcase into a coffee table. By choosing the right legs, the table can be made in a classic or retro style.

Log table

Making a table out of logs is also quite easy. To do this, you need small logs of approximately the same thickness and height (32 pieces). You should also prepare the base for the table, 4 wheels for furniture or legs, putty, glue suitable for wood, and a screwdriver.

First you need to make a base for the table, along the perimeter of which there will be logs. The middle of the warping is sewn up with cardboard. Legs or wheels are attached to the underside of the base. In order for the table to appear completely made of logs, small round dies must be glued to the surface of the cardboard. All voids formed between the dies are smeared and carefully rubbed to create a smooth surface of the table. You can decorate a similar table with branches.

Instead of a large number of small logs, you can use one thick log cut to make a coffee table in this way.

Pallet table

Even from the most ordinary pallets that can be found on each, you will get an excellent coffee table. For work it is necessary to prepare:

Wooden pallets;
Hammer;
Drill;
Nail puller;
clamps;
Glue;
screws;
Screwdriver;
Legs or wheels;
Primer;
Soap.

First of all, the surface of the pallets must be cleaned of contaminants. To do this, you can use a drill with a nozzle for working with wood. Also, with the help of a nail puller, you should get rid of old nails and disassemble the pallets into parts. All damaged and broken pieces of boards must be glued together. Clamp the boards gently with clamps and let them dry well. Then glue the prepared parts of the countertop on the reverse side and again with clamps. After complete drying, the surface of the table must be coated with a layer of primer, and then with varnish. It is necessary to attach wheels or legs to the back of the resulting table. In order to make it easier to attach the screws to the table, their surfaces can be rubbed with ordinary soap.

After all the work done, you get a functional, stylish and compact table.

DIY cool table ideas photo

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the cavities are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, and in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is prone to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "alive" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class