How to make a greenhouse with your own hands - step by step instructions and photo examples. We build an inexpensive greenhouse with our own hands - successful projects in photos and videos A simple greenhouse with our own hands

Greenhouses are the best facilities for growing fruit and horticultural crops on protected ground. By design, it consists of a frame and a coating that transmits light (propylene, glass or film). In addition, the building must have windows, doors and vents for maintenance and ventilation. Also, some walls can be sheathed with boards or lined with bricks for additional protection and insulation.

Do-it-yourself greenhouses from improvised materials are easy to build, but at the same time, such structures have a fairly high functionality and allow you to grow vegetables, fruits and herbs year-round.

How to make a greenhouse at home

Many greenhouse owners are interested in the question of whether it is possible to use a conventional design in the cold season. It should be noted right away that without special equipment for heating and ventilation, the usual design will not be suitable for growing vegetables and fruits (Figure 1). Based on this, it is worth wondering how to build a greenhouse for the winter cultivation of fresh vegetables and herbs.

Figure 1. Types of winter greenhouses

In general, all greenhouses are built according to the same principle: first they build the foundation, then the frame, after which they proceed to sheathing and installing the necessary equipment. But during the construction of winter types, there are certain features that we will describe below.

Terms

A winter greenhouse can be made both single-sided and double-sided, and the building can both adjoin the house and be at some distance from it. But it should be borne in mind that wall structures are more suitable for small farms, since the wall of the house will protect the structure from the cold and reduce heating costs.

Before construction, you need to choose a site that is as much as possible illuminated by the sun. To do this, it is better to place the building from east to west: this way the plants in it will receive a sufficient amount of light, although lamps for additional lighting will still have to be used. In addition, if cold winds are often observed in your area, you need to provide wind protection: place the room near another building or plant a hedge a few meters from it.

Peculiarities

The construction technology of a winter greenhouse is typical, but still has some features that help to keep warm for the normal growth of crops.

If you are interested in how to make a heated greenhouse with your own hands, be sure to take into account these rules:

• The foundation must be strong and high enough so that the cold from the ground does not penetrate into the building;
• Inside, it is desirable to equip warm beds with a special soil mixture (sand, soddy soil and humus);
• Heating and lighting devices are installed necessarily in order to create an optimal microclimate inside. It is also necessary to install a ventilation system, and heating is best done by stove or gas.

Figure 2. Marking the foundation

At the same time, it is necessary to equip all life support systems with automation so that growing crops in closed ground requires minimal human intervention.

Do-it-yourself greenhouses from improvised materials

The construction of the greenhouse begins with marking the place for the foundation. To do this, take a cord and a few stakes and mark one of the side walls. Having stuck the stake into the ground, measure the required length and pull the cord. After that, with a square, determine the location of the end wall, measure its length and stick another peg. The rest of the stakes are placed according to the same principle, and a cord is pulled between them. Next, we check the corners and measure the diagonals (they should be the same). Detailed instructions for marking and building the foundation are shown in Figure 2.

What covering material is better

It is impossible to build a greenhouse without the correct selection of covering material. Many people prefer to use ordinary polyethylene film for this purpose, but this material is far from the most successful one on the market today.

Figure 3. Types of covering materials: film, glass and polycarbonate

Let's try to figure out which material is better to use as a coating for the frame (Figure 3).

The use of glass is considered a fairly popular way of making cladding. For example, you can make a small greenhouse out of old window frames, but if the greenhouse is large, you will have to order glass for it separately, and they are quite expensive. Despite the high cost, such a construction will serve for a very long time, and the glass itself is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, perfectly withstands the heavy weight of snow and helps maintain a stable temperature inside the building.

Note: A film coating is considered a more economical option, but at the same time it is not durable enough. Conventional film can last only one season, so for more durable buildings it is better to choose a reinforced film that does not need to be replaced within 6-8 years. In this case, it is desirable to fasten the film so that it is not damaged by sharp corners.

The best coating is polycarbonate. This is a lightweight and durable material that allows enough sunlight to pass through, while retaining heat inside the structure. Since it is quite expensive, it is worth buying it only if the room will be used constantly.

Greenhouses: how to make land for planting

The abundance of the crop largely depends on the quality of the soil that is used to grow plants. It is impossible to pour ordinary soil from the garden onto the beds, as it may contain weed seeds and pathogens of dangerous diseases that will destroy the plants.

Note: If it is not possible to prepare a special soil mixture for the greenhouse, and ordinary garden soil will be used for the beds, it is advisable to disinfect it using special preparations (for example, Inta-Vir).

But, if you want to get a really rich harvest, you still have to spend a little time making a suitable soil mixture. The most fertile substrate is considered, which includes one part of peat, humus, soddy land and sawdust. Such soil is quite light and fertile, so additional fertilizer is required only at the stage of direct cultivation of crops. But, as is the case with ordinary garden soil, it is advisable to disinfect the mixture before laying it on the beds.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood

Depending on the design, greenhouses can be single-slope, gable, tent, arched, wall-mounted, pit, or be part of the house. In addition, they can be stationary (the design is not disassembled) and portable.

Additionally, they are divided according to the type of coating (film and glazed) and the method of heating (heated by the sun or equipment).

When choosing a form, one should take into account the location of the building relative to the parts of the world, other buildings on the territory, as well as the purpose and shading. The optimal location is considered in which the southern part of the horizon is visible from the entrance. To do this, imagine that you are standing with your back to the entrance. When positioned correctly, the sun will travel from east to west in a clockwise direction. The transparent wall should be oriented to the south, as in this case the maximum amount of light will get inside.

Note: The location of the greenhouse on the cardinal points is important only if the walls (all or several) are made of opaque material. If it is completely covered with film or glass, these indicators do not play a decisive role.

If the building is shaded by trees or neighboring buildings (for example, in a small area), its north side is made of an opaque material that will not allow hypothermia inside the building. To improve the reflection of heat and light, the roof is made transparent, and one of the walls is covered with white paint or a reflective screen.

Each type of greenhouse has certain characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.(picture 4):

• Single and double- one of the most popular. They are rectangular, and they can be placed in any part of the site, and the interior space is used almost completely. If a structure of this type is built on a foundation and equipped with heating devices, crops can be grown all year round. The only drawback of one- and two-slope types is the rather complicated construction and the need to purchase a large amount of materials.
• Arched easier to build, but they are not designed for long-term use due to insufficiently strong frame. However, the streamlined shape makes it resistant to gusts of wind, and the condensation that collects inside drips onto the ground, not onto the plants. In addition, it is difficult to grow garden plants in an arched greenhouse (special shelves are equipped for them). Additional costs will be incurred by ventilation equipment, since standard side ventilation is not suitable for this type.
• wall greenhouses and buildings that turn into a residential building are mainly used as winter gardens. They are economically more profitable, since the heat in them is maintained by heating the house. The disadvantage is that additional lighting equipment is required to grow full-fledged plants.
• Pit are single and double. Their main feature is that the side walls are laid out of brick and immersed in the ground. This results in significant savings in heating costs.

Figure 4. The main types of greenhouses: 1 - single-sided, 2 - double-sided, 3 - arched, 4 - wall-mounted

If the greenhouse will be used not only for growing crops, but also as a decor for a personal plot, it can also be made polygonal. But in this case, construction costs increase significantly.

What is needed for this

Building a greenhouse with your own hands from wood is quite simple, because it requires a minimum of knowledge, tools and materials (Figure 5).

A frame is built from wood, which is later sheathed with glass or film. The main condition is to properly prepare and process the wood. The bars that will be used to build the frame are cleaned of dust and dirt, washed with clean water and dried. After that, they need to be cleaned with emery and treated with an antiseptic solution that prevents early decay.

Figure 5. Do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse construction

The bars are fastened together with nails or self-tapping screws, and after the structure is completely ready, it needs to be painted, painting over not only the wood, but also the metal parts.

Where is the best place to place

When planning the location of the greenhouse on the site, you need to take into account the prevailing winds and the movement of the sun. In order for the plants inside the structure to be as much as possible illuminated by the sun, it is better to place it from east to west.

If strong winds are often observed in your area, it is advisable to install the structure near other buildings or large trees. At the same time, too much shading of the structure should not be allowed.

Foundation

When marking the site for the foundation, use the level, since the ground must be absolutely flat. Otherwise, it will be difficult to install the frame, and if its parts can be adjusted and mounted, the structure will be overloaded and the frame may be deformed.

Note: According to the rules, the room should have a slight slope for water flow, but this rule can be ignored when building small structures.

After marking, you can start building the foundation. It must be very durable, because it not only bears the weight of the greenhouse itself, but also protects the plants from cold air and pests. As a rule, ready-made collapsible structures in the kit have materials for the construction of the foundation (beams or pipes). But they are not strong enough and do not protect against frost and rodents. Therefore, it is recommended to lay it out of concrete or brick. The width should be at least 10 cm, and it should be placed below the freezing level of the soil.

For the construction of the foundation, you can also use special blocks. They are hollow inside, so after installation, the inside is poured with concrete. A curb stone laid on a layer of concrete is also used. Foundation construction options are shown in Figure 6.

Figure 6. Options and procedure for building the foundation

If the foundation is high (for example, located at a height of 30 cm from ground level), it will be inconvenient to bring in or carry fertilizer and water inside. In this case, floorings are equipped at the entrance or the door is lowered to the ground level, using the free space for equipping shelves, on which seedlings can later be grown.

Additionally, it is covered with waterproofing material so that heat is retained inside. During construction, care should also be taken to equip a container for draining excess water. It is better to bury such a container in the ground so that it does not occupy the interior space. The drain must be tightly closed so that condensate and water for irrigation do not get into it. Practical recommendations for marking and building the foundation - in the video.

Stages of construction

For the construction of the basement, several methods are used.:

• From the inside, sheets of heat-insulating material are laid, a binding wire is laid and the surface is poured with concrete;
• Cast blocks with gravel are laid on the base. Such material perfectly retains heat and has a high bearing capacity. But if it is assumed that the wall will be high, it is additionally reinforced with reinforcement;
• Lay wooden materials impregnated under pressure with protective compounds. In the future, the tree is additionally insulated.

The choice of material and method for building a basement depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also on the type of soil and type of foundation. In addition, certain types of plinths require additional processing. For example, a concrete plinth does not need to be painted, but if it is built from concrete or sand blocks, the surface must be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint (Figure 7).

As a rule, a frame is included in the package of finished products, which only needs to be mounted. But if you build with your own hands, the frame is most often made of wood or metal.

Figure 7. Basement construction technology

For this, planed lumber or a metal profile is used. When choosing materials for the frame, you should pay attention to several important details:

• Lumber intended for construction is treated with a special green compound, so the frame will have to be additionally painted. Such wood is quite expensive, but its service life is higher than usual. It is important that the impregnation composition is poisonous, so the roots or leaves of plants should not be allowed to come into contact with the tree.
• Pillars, ceilings and other vertical elements can be made from boards (50 x 100 or 50 x 125 mm). For the installation of beams, a beam is used, the size of which depends on the length of the building.

The construction of the frame begins with the fact that roofing material or rubberized material is laid on the base. On lumber intended for horizontal fastening, mark and drill holes for bolts and arrange them around the perimeter of the plinth. After that, we outline the attachment points for the vertical beams. A detailed frame installation scheme is shown in Figure 8.

After attaching the horizontal elements to the plinth, check them for level, saw the vertical beams into pieces of the desired size.

Note: Sawing vertical beams in advance is not recommended, because when installed on a plinth, they can give an error.

In the next step, attach the vertical posts to the top beams. Having outlined the position of each board or beam, fix it obliquely with a driven nail. The optimal distance between vertical posts is 30 or 60 cm, since in this case it is easy to carry out glazing.

Figure 8. Scheme of mounting the frame for gable greenhouses

At the final stage, the vertical posts are attached to the lower and upper beams with nails, and to reinforce the structure, it is recommended to tie the joints with steel brackets, wire or tape with an anti-corrosion coating. After that, facing boards and gutters are attached. In the process of work, all places of cuts and holes for fastenings must be treated with an antiseptic. You will learn detailed recommendations for mounting the frame from the video.

How to make a greenhouse out of old window frames

Do-it-yourself greenhouses from improvised materials practically do not differ in functionality from expensive polycarbonate structures. Of course, they are not very suitable for winter crops, but they will successfully last for several seasons under operating conditions in spring, summer and autumn.

One of the simplest structures is considered to be a greenhouse made of old window frames (Figure 9). For it, you need to make a concrete foundation, and if the building is located on clay or swampy soil, additionally equip a gravel pillow.

Figure 9. Building a greenhouse from old window frames

But the most important step is the preparation of the raw material itself - the old window frames. To do this, they remove all handles, latches, hinges and other metal parts. The old paint is removed, the wood is treated with an antiseptic and repainted. In most cases, the frames are fastened together with nails. Therefore, it is advisable to remove the glass in advance so as not to damage them during installation.

Frames are attached to a frame of wooden beams. You can leave a few vents for ventilation, and make their roof polycarbonate. The remaining windows that will not open during operation are carefully sealed with sealant.

How to make a foundation

The choice of material for the construction of the foundation depends on the characteristics of the soil and the type of greenhouse itself. Consider the most popular options.

• Concrete

Suitable for homogeneous soil with medium bearing capacity. In this case, a support is made directly at the construction site: a wooden formwork is installed in a pit 30 cm deep, and the space is poured with liquid concrete. The bottom of the pit should be flat and covered with a layer of gravel or sand. If the site has rocky soil, a hole is dug to the rock and its surface is thoroughly cleaned (Figure 10).

The formwork must be square (side length - 30 cm). The boards must be tied together so that they do not deform when poured. Reinforcement is laid inside the formwork and concrete is poured.

• From piles

For areas with soft soil, a pile foundation is more suitable. As a rule, piles are made of concrete and buried or driven into the ground. However, this method of construction is too expensive and requires the use of special equipment. Therefore, other methods of building a pile foundation can be used on a personal plot:

1. Drive old rails or other metal beams into the ground;
2. Use sleepers impregnated with special compounds for longer operation.

Figure 10. The procedure for the construction of a strip concrete foundation

Metal piles can be freely driven into the ground without fear of deformation. When doing this, choose beams long enough so that their lower part reaches the soil layers with high bearing capacity.

Note: Before driving piles, mark the site so that enough space is allocated for the foundation. This is necessary, because in the process of driving the pile may stumble upon a stone or other hard rock, and you will have to change its direction.

You need to drive piles while standing on a special stand. But even if you decide to build a small greenhouse on piles, it is better to consult with a specialist in advance.

• From concrete slabs

The foundation, built of concrete slabs, is quite expensive. But its cost pays off with high strength, reliability and bearing capacity even on soft soils.

It is based on a reinforced concrete slab 20 cm thick, which evenly distributes the load. However, concrete slabs must not be laid on loose ground. If, nevertheless, this is necessary, the soil layer is removed and replaced with crushed stone or gravel. Styrox is laid on the crushed stone (thickness 10 cm) and the surface is poured with concrete. The technology for building a foundation from piles and concrete slabs is shown in Figure 11.

Figure 11. Foundation construction based on piles and concrete slabs

The selection of the foundation is especially difficult for clay areas or soil, which changes its composition in depth. In this case, it is better to consult a specialist so that the greenhouse does not deform after construction and has sufficient thermal insulation.

Construction steps

To make a greenhouse out of old window frames correctly, you need to follow certain rules.

Step-by-step instructions for building a greenhouse include the following steps:

1. Foundation construction: since this structure is quite heavy, it is advisable to make the corner of the foundation of stone, and between them to make a structure of concrete on a pillow of gravel and sand.
2. Prepare building material: remove all metal fittings from old frames, remove old paint, treat wood with an antiseptic and repaint.
3. Make the floor: for this, the ground is first tamped, and then a concrete screed is made on it, on which the beds will be located in the future
4. Frame construction and sheathing: the base to which the frames will be attached is made of bars of the same thickness as the frames. The parts are fastened together with nails, and the roof can be made of film or polycarbonate.

After the greenhouse is completely ready, beds are equipped in it or racks are installed. It is also desirable to provide a vestibule in which inventory and necessary equipment will be stored.

How to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe yourself

Profile pipes are widely used in construction, and since this material is light and durable, it can also be used to make a greenhouse.

Since it is difficult to bend a profile pipe at a right angle without the use of special equipment, it is best to build arched models with it.

Where is the best place to place

You can place a greenhouse from a profile pipe on almost any part of the site. Since such a structure is light, it does not carry a large load on the soil, and they can be built even in swampy and clay areas.

Figure 12. Recommendations for the construction of a greenhouse from a profile pipe

At the same time, it is important to take into account that the same requirements apply to greenhouses from a profile pipe as to buildings made of other materials. To protect the structure from strong winds, it is advisable to build a greenhouse under the protection of other buildings or hedges. And to provide plants with optimal lighting, it is advisable to place the building from east to west.

Foundation

The profile pipe is much lighter than wood, so the foundation for a greenhouse from it can be anything. However, if you plan to operate the building for a long time, it is better to make a concrete foundation.

If the greenhouse from the profile pipe will be used only in summer, you can get around without a foundation by installing the frame supports directly into the ground. But in this case, it is necessary to provide the plants with additional protection by installing wooden formwork around the perimeter.

Stages of construction

The construction of a greenhouse from a profile pipe begins with the preparation of the site (Figure 12). It is advisable to choose a flat area with sandy soil. If there is no such place, the soil is leveled manually, and drainage is arranged on marshy soils.

Next, proceed to the manufacture and installation of the frame. If you want to build a rectangular greenhouse, you will have to buy special equipment with which the pipe can be bent to the desired angle. To avoid additional costs, it is better to build arched structures. In this case, the pipe can simply be bent in an arc and dug into the ground from both sides.

At the final stage of construction, the frame is sheathed with film, glass or polycarbonate, the floor and beds are made, or shelving is installed.

Make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands drawings

The most modern and functional option is the construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse (Figure 13). It is lightweight, durable and wear-resistant material that will last for many years. Its only drawback is the high price, so it is worth building such greenhouses only if it will be used for a long time.

You can make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands according to the drawings, but many prefer to buy ready-made structures and carry out installation on site. We will tell you how to save money and build a protected ground structure with your own hands.

What is needed for this

First of all, for the construction you need to buy polycarbonate. Another advantage is that the sheets have a standard length and width (12 and 2.10 meters, respectively). This allows you to build a greenhouse 3.5 meters wide and cover the roof with one whole sheet.

In addition to the polycarbonate itself, for the construction you will need materials for the foundation, accessories for attaching sheets and a plastic U-shaped profile, which covers the edges of the polycarbonate to protect its honeycombs from dust.

Peculiarities

In addition to the high cost of polycarbonate, the material has no other significant drawbacks. Of course, its honeycombs can become clogged with dust, and the coating will lose transparency, but this problem is easily solved with a plastic profile that is attached to the edges of the sheet.

Figure 13. The order of construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse

As with other types of structures, polycarbonate greenhouses require a foundation, but its purpose is not to strengthen the building, but to protect plants from the external environment.

Where is the best place to place

In addition, it is desirable to install the greenhouse so that the plants receive the maximum amount of sunlight. To do this, you need to arrange the structure from east to west.

Foundation

To build a foundation that will exactly match the size of the greenhouse, you need to place the site by setting pegs and pulling a rope between them. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the foundation.

Note: Since polycarbonate is a lightweight material, the foundation can be built both as tape (made of concrete) and wooden - from beams and supports.

As a support, you can use asbestos-cement pipes, which are installed at the corners of the greenhouse. The soil around them is compacted, and the foundation is mounted from wooden beams. It is better to treat the tree with an antiseptic and paint it so that the structure does not rot.

Stages of construction

The steps for building a polycarbonate greenhouse are the same as for other materials. First, mark the site and build the foundation. After that, proceed to the installation of the frame. It can be made of wood, shaped pipes or aluminum. The latter option is considered preferable, since aluminum is quite light, but at the same time durable.

At the final stages, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, equipment for irrigation, heating and ventilation is installed inside the structure, and the beds are equipped.

How to make a heated greenhouse with your own hands

The design of a heated greenhouse practically does not differ from conventional structures. But at the same time, several important nuances must be taken into account. First, you need to carefully seal all the cracks so that heat does not leave the greenhouse.

Secondly, you need to install heating equipment. You can make warm beds by arranging them according to the principle of a warm floor, and laying pipes under the ground. But a more popular option is the installation of heating: gas, electric or furnace boiler.

Each gardener can independently and correctly, and most importantly, economically and quickly make a greenhouse structure in the country. Construction requires a good plan, competent step-by-step instructions and minimal experience with basic construction tools.

Advantages of self-manufacturing greenhouses

Currently, in the conditions of backyard and country vegetable growing, a huge number of varieties of greenhouse structures, both factory-made and handicraft, are used. You can make a greenhouse of any size yourself.

What will be a home-made greenhouse or greenhouse building, largely depends on the materials available to the summer resident. The indisputable advantages of this design are its low cost and the possibility of erection at a convenient time and date. In addition, with your own hands you can make quite unusual or original, but very functional greenhouses or greenhouses.

Winter and summer designs

It is quite possible to build both a winter and a summer version on your own. However, before making a project and putting it into practice, you should understand how these types of greenhouses differ and why the design needs additional costs.

• The main difference lies in the material from which the structure is built. For example, plastic film is used in the manufacture of summer structures, but it is not suitable for winter ones. As a cover for a winter greenhouse, you should choose high-quality glass or translucent polycarbonate. Thin sheet polycarbonate can also be used in the manufacture of a summer greenhouse.
• If we are building a winter greenhouse, then it is very important to pay special attention to the foundation, since this part has a direct impact on the efficiency of the heating system.
• The frame of a winter greenhouse building should be as powerful and reliable as possible, and for a summer structure, you can make it lighter.

These are the most important seasonal features that you need to consider in order to create a high-quality and durable greenhouse.

The main types of greenhouses

Most often, greenhouse structures are designed for the cultivation of a certain type of plant, taking into account their botanical characteristics, including illumination and temperature conditions inside.

• Shed greenhouse the roof is an ideal option for creating a winter garden or greenhouse, due to the presence of an internal transition to the building. In this case, the greenhouse will be easy to maintain, regardless of the time of year. A shed greenhouse is best attached to the south side of the house.
• Gable greenhouses or "house" structures have proven themselves in most regions of our country and quite deservedly belong to the category of the most common classical protected ground structures.

• teardrop-shaped options very durable, have excellent light transmission and do not retain snow mass on the surface, but they are difficult to install, so they are rarely made on their own at home.
• dome view not only looks original, but also has some functional characteristics, including the possibility of construction in earthquake-prone areas, as well as reducing the consumption of building materials. When creating such a structure, special attention should be paid to its high-quality sealing and insulation.

• polygonal design combines good light transmission, attractive appearance, as well as high resistance to gusty winds. It should be noted that the installation of such a structure is quite complicated and a competent organization of space is necessary for uniform heating of the air masses.
• Dutch greenhouses differ in reliability and durability. Walls made with a slope allow you to maximize lighting, which has a positive effect on crop yields. In addition, the construction of such a greenhouse will be inexpensive.

Which greenhouse to choose (video)

In recent years, tunnel structures - "booths" have been popular. This design perfectly protects the plants from bad weather and gusty winds, and as a result, with minimal investment in the building, it is possible to obtain a stable and high yield. This allows you to evaluate this option as optimal for building in the country with your own hands. Most often, a tunnel greenhouse is used for growing peppers and tomatoes.

Collapsible and stationary products

All greenhouses erected and used in personal and garden plots are divided into stationary and collapsible (folding).

The folding greenhouse began to be used in the conditions of household vegetable growing relatively recently. Its basis is a lightweight collapsible frame, and its small size allows, if necessary, to transfer the greenhouse to a new location. A small design is quite cheap for summer residents, and it is not difficult to assemble it yourself.

The stationary greenhouse, on the contrary, has been used by vegetable growers for many years. The design features of such a building are the presence of a metal frame on which the coating is installed, and a foundation base. Most summer residents prefer just such greenhouses, due to their reliability and durability, as well as ease of use in the structure and ease of maintenance.

The choice of material for the frame

The frame base and the door must be rigid and durable, which will withstand multiple seasonal temperature fluctuations, as well as wind and a fairly large weight of snow mass. At the same time, the number of massive elements that reduce illumination should be minimized. The implementation of a collapsible design involves the use of materials with low weight and ease of dismantling. Today, several types of materials are used to create the frame of greenhouses, differing in characteristics and price.

• Wood is the most affordable and cheapest option that does not require special skills and the use of professional equipment. The wooden frame is eco-friendly and lightweight, but is prone to decay, therefore, it needs to be treated with antiseptics.
• Aluminum allows you to create lightweight and durable structures with a high level of rigidity that can withstand significant loads. To connect the parts, a household riveter is used or mounted in specially drilled nut holes. The high price of the aluminum frame somewhat reduces the popularity of the option.

• Plastic has such unique characteristics as lightness and strength, as well as non-susceptibility to the process of decay and corrosive changes. The flexibility of the material helps to create structures of various shapes, which is especially important when building arched or gable greenhouses. However, it should be noted that the significant lightness of plastic requires mandatory attachment to the foundation or ground.
• Steel is used to create a greenhouse frame quite often and requires a strip foundation. Galvanized steel frames are characterized by resistance to corrosion, which increases the life of the greenhouse.

• Profile for drywall successfully combines such advantages as light weight and ease of installation work. As practice shows, a frame made of a metal profile turns out to be convenient to use, durable, collapsible and quite budgetary. Perfect for creating gable and single-slope buildings, as well as arched structures and the Mitlider greenhouse.
• window frames as a material for the frame of the greenhouse, they allow you to create a structure with acceptable thermal insulation in the shortest possible time and with significant savings. However, the fragility of such a frame should be taken into account: the average service life, even when wood is processed, does not exceed five years.

Other materials for creating a frame are not popular in home garden greenhouse construction.

Types of foundation for a greenhouse

The insignificant weight and large windage of the greenhouse structure often cause the structure to overturn under the influence of gusty winds, so the frame should be installed on the most reliable and durable foundation base. The choice of the type of foundation depends in most cases on the weight of the structure.

• brick foundation easy to install, reliable enough and suitable for most greenhouses. However, it should be borne in mind that the manufacture of such a foundation is a rather laborious and expensive process.
• stone base very reliable and durable. A properly executed stone foundation is able to withstand heavy metal structures made of profiled steel and fiberglass. It is most often used when creating capital greenhouses and is not among the budget options.

• concrete foundation is one of the inexpensive and pre-fabricated capital foundations and involves the creation of formwork, followed by pouring the concrete mix and installing rod anchors for attaching the frame.
• The simplest and most affordable option is wooden base. However, the operation of such a foundation made of boards or timber, even when treated with high-quality antiseptic compounds, is limited to five seasons, which makes its installation under the main frame impractical.

Greenhouse covering materials

Glass, polyethylene film or translucent cellular polycarbonate can be used as a coating material. Each of the types of material has advantages, but it is also not without disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing.

• Film is one of the cheapest and most affordable materials, but in terms of durability it is not able to compete with polycarbonate or glass. Even the highest quality film coating should be changed every three years. An arched, arc greenhouse is most often covered with two layers of film at once, which allows plants to provide the most comfortable conditions for growth and development. The material has a good level of light transmission, but under the influence of sunlight it wears out quickly, the light transmission indicators decrease. The disadvantages also include the formation of condensate on the inside of the coating.

• Glass belongs to the traditional materials for the greenhouse and is characterized as a durable coating with a high level of light transmission and good thermal insulation. When using it to create protected ground structures, one should remember about the rapid heating of glass and the significant weight of the material. In addition, it is important to consider that replacing broken or damaged glass is not cheap.
• Polycarbonate is a hard translucent plastic with a cellular structure. The material is characterized by durability, a high level of impact resistance and good light transmission, as well as excellent flexibility, which makes it possible to use it in arched and tunnel-type structures.

Other covering materials are sometimes used. Some amateur vegetable growers perform a combined shelter of greenhouses, in which the roof of the structure is covered with a film, and the side parts of the frame are glazed.

When a Foundation Isn't Needed

The foundation is the basis that provides a high level of stability, integrity, as well as maximum strength of the greenhouse building. However, there are varieties of protected ground structures that do not need to create a foundation foundation. These are lightweight portable and collapsible structures, the weight of which is insignificant, and protection against windage is achieved by attaching the greenhouse to the ground using pegs.

Schemes and drawings

Before proceeding with the construction of a greenhouse or greenhouse structure with your own hands, it is necessary to correctly draw up drawings and diagrams of the structure. Greenhouse drawings can be varied. At present, in the public domain, one can find both schemes of Soviet classical wooden models, and modern, and rational schemes of the Mitlider greenhouse.

The choice of a scheme and a drawing of a greenhouse or greenhouse structure should be based on the requirements, features and characteristics of the materials used in the independent construction of the structure, as well as the purposes of using the protected ground structure in the conditions of backyard or summer cottage crop production.

You can independently create a scheme for the future structure or use ready-made options. The second option is more preferable and can save time and effort.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse manufacturing steps

Self-manufacturing of a greenhouse or greenhouse structure includes several sequential steps:

• choice of building type;
• creation of a drawing and diagram;
• frame manufacturing;
• carrying out earthworks, including the construction of a foundation;
• installation of the supporting frame;
• installation of a translucent coating.

The peculiarity of each stage depends on the type of materials used, as well as the characteristics of the structure itself, including the size and season of use.

Greenhouse equipment

The creation of a microclimate favorable for the growth and development of plants in most cases depends on the use of special greenhouse equipment. In order to increase the productivity of cultivated crops and the quality of the harvested crop, it is necessary to take care of the modernization of the protected ground space in advance. Growing vegetable, berry or green crops in protected ground involves the installation of heating, irrigation, additional lighting, and ventilation.

• Irrigation system using drip or subsoil irrigation equipment can save gardeners and gardeners from heavy manual labor, as well as save time and water.
• Heating can be carried out in several ways, and the choice of equipment depends on the communication system that is on the backyard or garden plot. You can choose stove, electric or gas heating.

• Ventilation very important at all stages of growth and development of garden crops. It helps protect plants from overheating and provides full air exchange. For natural ventilation, open doors and vents are quite enough, and if necessary, to increase air circulation, an exhaust or circulation fan should be installed.
• Additional lighting necessary not only for seedlings, but also for almost any garden plants cultivated in conditions of too short daylight hours. Special lamps allow you to provide the cultivated crop with optimal comfortable illumination in early spring, as well as in winter and late autumn.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands (video)

Today, many gardeners cannot imagine their site without a greenhouse. And for the first time in our country, the famous scientist K. Timiryazev grew crops in this way. His merit was the construction in 1872 on the territory of the Petrovsky Academy of Sciences of a growing house for cultivated plants. This prototype of the modern greenhouse made it possible to develop in subsequent years, up to the present day, various types of protected ground structures, which make it possible to lengthen the fruiting period of plants and increase the quality and volume of the crop.

The greenhouse is as much a symbol of the modern age as space flights, computers with the Internet, robots and nuclear energy. This is not an exaggeration. According to WHO data for 1975, then 3/4 of the world's population lacked animal protein (without which, roughly speaking, a person becomes dumb and stupid), half were chronically malnourished, and a third, in addition, had never tasted either meat or fish, no eggs.

We still feel the consequences of malnutrition and malnutrition on a global scale today, but if the situation is not improving radically, then at least it is not significantly worsening, although less than 0.5 hectares of agricultural land per person remain on Earth. It is greenhouse farming that helps to hold out until better times (while still alive - hopefully!) the yield of fruit and vegetable crops in a greenhouse can be several times higher than in open ground(see fig.), and they harvest not in one gulp on a market day, but gradually all year round; this allows us to consistently meet demand and free up land for livestock farming.

Note: from the UN stuff. In the same 1975, UN experts zealously promoted vegetarianism. And last year they also recognized him as a mental disorder.

In turn, greenhouse agricultural technology was completely transformed quantitatively and qualitatively by a polycarbonate greenhouse. It is simple, cheap, durable and technologically advanced. In addition, if in the same 1975 expert tasters accurately separated greenhouse fruits and vegetables from ground fruits and vegetables, now they confuse them in about 50% of cases. This means that they do not feel a noticeable difference and speak at random. Under an indispensable condition: the test samples were grown in modern greenhouses using modern agricultural technologies. Which, in turn, in old greenhouses are either inefficient or simply not applicable. For example, a greenhouse made of wood and glass from drip-fog irrigation in it becomes completely unusable in 2-3 years.

Polycarbonate is a type of organic glass that reflects infrared (IR) rays well and thus can create a strong greenhouse effect. But he did not transform greenhouses on his own, but only after they learned how to produce it in the form of sheets of a honeycomb structure. This made it possible to create strong and resistant prestressed greenhouse structures on a lightweight frame; You can build a polycarbonate greenhouse in almost any climate, from the Sahara to the Putorana Mountains and from the Mojave Desert to Northern Labrador. Thanks to this, greenhouse farming has also become a public help: a greenhouse on a piece of land of a quarter of a hundred square meters is able to provide a family with fruits and herbs all year round and even provide a marketable surplus for sale.

Polycarbonate is easy to process, and the technology for creating structures with working skin from it is simple. With the widespread use of pipes made of engineering plastics and methods for their quick and durable connection, the construction of the frame has ceased to be a serious problem. Currently, there is a wide range of kits for assembling small garden greenhouses on sale, but - demand dictates prices! Therefore, everyone who wants to build a greenhouse with their own hands arrives: in the Penza region alone. number of self-made private greenhouses for 2009-2014 increased by more than 20 (!) times.

Note: engineering plastics - those that are able to bear mechanical operational loads for a long time. PVC, for example, with all its advantages, is not structural plastic, although it can be very useful in greenhouse business, which will be discussed later. Of the engineering plastics, polyisopropylene (PP) is most commonly used: it is not expensive, and its mechanical properties are comparable to steel. Further, unless otherwise specified, plastic will always be understood as PP.

There are different ways to build a greenhouse from PP, at least this:

Video: greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes

But we will further try to tell not only how to make a greenhouse yourself, but also how to design it, and without complicated calculations, and when building to avoid excessive costs and labor costs. Ready-made sets of parts are calculated for all occasions and therefore are not cheap, a design well developed by others in these specific circumstances may turn out to be unsuitable for any reason, and we will create our own greenhouse for our own local conditions, getting by with the minimum necessary.

We will focus primarily on polycarbonate greenhouses on a tubular plastic frame, as the most versatile. But there are a number of garden crops that can vegetate and bear fruit all year round at a relatively low above-zero temperature and relatively low light. These are people from the tropics who have taken root in temperate latitudes: cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, sweet peppers, zucchini, squash. We cultivate them as annuals, but in general they are evergreen and, with minimal heating costs, can produce marketable products for 9-10 months a year, and the demand for them is always good.

Such crops do not require high agricultural technologies, but they are afraid of overheating in summer; Here they need more fresh air and coolness. Therefore, and also for a number of other reasons, for their small-scale production and cultivation for their own consumption, the good old greenhouse made of wood is better suited, so we will also deal with them. We will not ignore the mini-greenhouses for table greens, flowers and seedlings, especially since you can arrange one in a city apartment.

Finally, greenhouse business is being improved not only by venerable specialists in large research centers. Craftsmen sometimes come up with designs that are surprisingly effective and promising; some of them will also be discussed.

Greenhouse or greenhouse?

Greenhouses with greenhouses are usually distinguished by size. Like, the greenhouse is large, you can enter it and work there like in a garden. And the greenhouse is small, you can only climb into it with your hands, and then squatting, so do pruning, hilling, etc. uncomfortable. But this is only a visible difference, and the essence is much deeper: a large building can be a greenhouse, and a small box can be a greenhouse.

Note: about appearance and essence. The famous ancient Greek philosopher-sophist was once asked: "What is a man?" He, after thinking, answered: "A biped without feathers." The next day, the students shook out of the bag in front of him ... a plucked chicken.

The greenhouse creates the so-called. spring awakening effect. To do this, the soil in it is deeply mulched with manure; the best is horse. As biofuels decompose, they heat the earth from within. Root heating of plants at a lower air temperature than on the soil surface, in combination with an excess of nitrogen, stimulates, first of all, the rapid growth of vegetation of its nutrient factory - green mass. If plants have their own depots of supplies (bulbs, rhizomes), then they are primarily used for this, and the root system is still lagging behind in development. Figuratively speaking, plants do not yet think about fruiting under such conditions.

Greenhouses are used mainly for forcing and growing seedlings. Forcing is a process of controlled acceleration of vegetation; in some species - up to flowering. By distillation, for example, you can get onion feathers, fresh watercress and lilies of the valley by a predetermined date: New Year, March 8th. Plants are so exhausted from forcing that they either die or require a long rest in the vegetative phase. Distillation of table greens gives products of excellent quality if the planting material was environmentally friendly, because. plants take very little from the soil.

Note: the simplest full-fledged greenhouse for seedlings and forcing onions on greens can be built in half an hour or an hour, see fig. The fertile layer of soil is removed on a bayonet, folded into a pile. Another half bayonet is selected and a layer of manure is laid. The soil is laid back on top, a shelter is made of a film - and you're done! In central Russia, such a greenhouse produces products from about the end of March to mid-October or early November.

In the greenhouse, root heating takes place, but moderate. The main thing here is that the plants should feel the influx of warm, warmer than the soil, air from above and / or from the side. This creates a “mid-spring effect” whereby plants tend to produce as quickly as possible in order to start accumulating nutrients for the winter or dry season. Well, if a paradise with eternal spring is arranged for them, then you can “fatten” as much as you like without exhausting yourself, as long as there is enough soil nutrition: the root system is now working with might and main. This is the basis for the high productivity of the greenhouse economy.

Note: a greenhouse cannot be a greenhouse, but any greenhouse can become a greenhouse. In general, for this it is necessary to strengthen the soil heating and weaken the air. But the subtleties of handling distilled crops are already a topic from agricultural technology, and not the construction of greenhouses.

About refraction

Polycarbonate and silicate glass have a refractive index of light significantly more than 1. That is, the slopes of the greenhouse, the rays of the Sun falling on them, are directed inward at a steeper angle. On the one hand, this is good: in winter, the ramp works as a light concentrator - it collects oblique winter light over a larger area and directs it inward to a smaller one, see Fig.:

On the other hand, with a decrease in the slope of the slope, the degree of reflection of direct rays also increases. If the angle of their incidence decreases to a critical one, the so-called. angle of total reflection, then only half of the scattered light will pass inward, and the direct light will be completely reflected. Based on this:

• In mid-latitudes, the angle of inclination of the slopes must be chosen within 30-45 degrees from the horizontal.
• The further north the greenhouse is located, the steeper the slopes should be.
• Greenhouses of a conventional design must be made gable and oriented with a roof ridge from north to south, i.e. slopes to the east and west. In this case, the angle of incidence of most of the light that has passed inward onto the surface of the shadow slope will be less than the critical one and it will be reflected back inward.

Note: Cellular polycarbonate has an additional advantage over glass in this regard - light refracts each of the layers of its structure and the degree of light concentration is higher. But the layers of polycarbonate are thinner than the thinnest glass, so its light transmission is almost the same as that of a single layer of glass.

How do plants sense light?

Radiation refraction in the coating of the greenhouse has another important role: it smooths out fluctuations in lighting and temperature in it during the day and season. Most horticultural crops are quite hardy to the amount of light and temperature, if they are kept more or less stable or change smoothly. But a sharp jump in any of these parameters of the plant is understood as a signal that unfavorable conditions are approaching. At the same time, their physiology switches from growth and fruiting algorithms to survival and accumulation of their own reserves: productivity drops, product quality deteriorates. A classic example is cucumbers. Let it not be for long, but it suddenly became colder or breathed with heat - everything became smaller and went bitter.

Own greenhouse

The first thing to start with is why do we need a greenhouse? What do we, speaking in Odessa, want to have from her? According to marketability, greenhouses are divided as follows:

1. Winter, or year-round - allow you to grow any crops all year round. To date, only durian and cherimoya are not physiologically amenable to greenhouse farming.
2. Seasonal capital, or semi-winter - give marketable products from Central Russia for 8-10 months. in a year. In these, either annuals or plants with physiology that require / endure a dormant period at sub-zero temperatures are cultivated.
3. Seasonal lightweight - the active phase of the production cycle for 2-3 months. shorter than semi-winter ones; usually they are meant by seasonal greenhouses. Cultivated in them, as a rule, early / late ordinary vegetables and herbs.
4. Temporary - used for growing seedlings in natural soil, forcing or for a one-two-three-fold crop of crops that greatly deplete the soil: root crops, strawberries, etc. When the site is developed, the greenhouse is dismantled, transferred to a new location, and the land is left to rest under fallow or sown with nitrogen-fixing crops, legumes, etc.
5. Greenhouses - they are put (it is difficult to call it a building) once for seedlings and forcing. How to make a greenhouse as such, said above. It is more difficult to arrange greenhouses for exotic flowers, for example. orchids or Gesneriaceae, but this topic is already from floriculture, and not gardening.

Note: phalaenopsis common in flower shops - only a few representatives of about 800 genera and more than 35,000 species of orchids, suitable for mass culture for cutting. The flowers of all orchids are long-lived and stand-up cut. Among them there are many such that in Hollywood there is not enough cocaine to purposely invent, on the left in fig. There are cases when rich connoisseurs paid $5,000 and even $20,000 for just 1 flower of a rare species. In countries where all sorts of rarities are loved, renting live flowering orchids in pots is a lucrative form of small business; rare orchids need to be groomed and nurtured until flowering for 7-8 years. Many orchids exude a delicate fragrance; vanilla is an orchid. Orchids grow up to the tundra, but in our area they are either small and do not catch the eye (for example, orchis), or very rare, like venus's shoes - cypripediums, in the center in fig. The Gesnerian culture is simpler, and they are also very showy and simply luxurious, on the right in fig. True, they are not suitable for cutting.

The purpose of the greenhouse determines the initial and operating costs for it. In winter, a capital foundation is needed with complete concreting of the underground part and insulation, as well as full lighting and heating. The cost of their heating is the lion's share of the current, so winter greenhouses are most cost-effective large size (from about 200 cubic meters) in large farms. The own heat reserve of a large greenhouse is enough to maintain the vital activity of plants, taking into account the greenhouse effect, for several days, up to 2 weeks. Therefore, heating systems for them do not rely on peak frosts, but on the average seasonal temperature, which is much higher.

The original version of the winter greenhouse is a greenhouse-greenhouse; it does not require constant heating in the middle latitudes at all. The mulch that decomposes under the soil layer heats the greenhouse. But its production cycle is difficult to vary, it is necessary to extract manure in large quantities 1-2 times a year, and food crops from it most often do not pass according to modern sanitary requirements, because. are oversaturated with nitrates. In the greenhouse phase of the cycle, only chives are more or less edible. Large hotbeds are used mainly as greenhouses, and small home gardens are used for cut flowers.

Note: in certain climatic conditions, it is possible to build a completely non-volatile winter greenhouse, the so-called. thermos greenhouses; a separate section will be dedicated to them. But the complexity of construction and the cost of it for a thermos greenhouse turn out to be much higher than for a conventional one. True, exceptions are possible, see later in the same section.

Semi-winter greenhouses- also quite solid structures; the foundation is most often tape monolithic or from ready-made blocks of lightweight type, tk. the upper structure is light and is not afraid of uneven shrinkage. But the working area is illuminated and heated here only at the beginning and end of the season of use, and 6-7 months. The greenhouse operates on natural light and the greenhouse effect. The light lantern of a semi-winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate on a PP frame will be inexpensive and can last more than 15 years, and with minimal illumination and heating in such a one from Moscow and to the south, you can grow perennial subtropical crops up to citrus fruits; they still have a dormant period. Harvesting will be seasonal, and heating in the very cold to a slight plus will help the plants endure the winter.

seasonal greenhouses Most of all, they build themselves. Ordinary table crops, with skillful management in the Moscow region, give up to 10 months. per year, and to the south of Rostov-on-Don, they are able to function year-round. In both cases, the cost of light and heat will not exceed more than 2 times those for a city apartment of equal area. With a reduction in the time of use in the cold season, heat costs fall rapidly, so most of these greenhouses live up to their name. The profitability of seasonal greenhouses increases significantly if inexpensive solid fuel for stoves is available to the owners; see the section on heating greenhouses for more details.

Light lanterns of seasonal greenhouses are generally the same as those of semi-winter greenhouses, but the foundation is made light columnar. Most often, rolled metal is used for it (pipes, corners, channels), but it will last a period on a par with a greenhouse and very cheap wood, if pieces of timber or logs for it are boiled in bitumen for 10-20 minutes (scalded with bitumen) and before being installed in pits, their ends wrap with ruberoid. If the life of the greenhouse does not exceed 5-7 years, and the lantern is plastic, then it can be built without a foundation.

Temporary greenhouses and greenhouses use in the middle lane from about April to October. They grow fast-ripening crops in them; predominantly bulbous and root vegetables, as well as table greens. Make temporary greenhouses most often ground (see below) and cover with a film. Lighting and heating are not done, because. natural light is already / still enough for photosynthesis, and the greenhouse effect gives an increase of 7-12 degrees to the seasonal temperature.

Note: the degree of the greenhouse effect depends on the strength of the lighting, because. Plants release carbon dioxide during photosynthesis. Therefore, behind the light in the greenhouse you need an eye and an eye - less light, less carbon dioxide, it became colder, photosynthesis weakened, the greenhouse effect also weakened, it got colder, and so very quickly until freezing.

Greenhouse and soil

The next factor to keep in mind when, so to speak, preliminary consideration of the greenhouse is the nature of the use of the soil. According to it, greenhouses are divided into soil, box and trench or bulk.

Ground, as the name implies, are built directly on the ground. They are temporary and seasonal. The basis of such a greenhouse is simple: wooden formwork 200-300 mm high on a flat area, see fig. Outside, the formwork is supported with pins made of reinforcing bars, on which the ends of the arcs of the lantern from pipes are put on. The frame of the lantern is lightweight, designed for more or less favorable weather conditions. Cover it mainly with a film.

Fertile soil is poured into the formwork; mulch if necessary. As the soil is depleted, its top layer is selected and changed. Such agriculture will last no more than 5-7 years: the smaller the plot of land, the more difficult and expensive it is to maintain its fertility for a long time. But by that time, the formwork will rot, the film, if it is not disposable (see below), will wear out, and the frame of the greenhouse is made collapsible or, if it is made of PP pipes, completely transferred by two or three to a new place.

The box greenhouse is suitable for all greenhouse crops for at least 10 years; theoretically - forever. This is achieved by the fact that the reinforced formwork is covered with crushed stone along the waterproofing, on which boxes are placed filled with earth, with perforated bottoms. The depleted earth from the boxes is simply thrown away and a new one is poured. Excess irrigation water flows into the rubble and then into the drainage. Thus, the scourge of non-professional greenhouse farms is excluded - acidification of the soil from the cold from below. If there is no drainage system on the site, then the drain of the greenhouse is taken out into a cesspool attached to it. It is impossible to reuse wastewater for irrigation, harmful micro-animals are teeming with them!

Most highly profitable home-made greenhouses are box-type. The production of formwork and foundation for a box greenhouse is also possible from wood (see Fig.), because. in this case, it almost does not contact the soil and is less exposed to harmful effects. If lumber, in addition to being treated with biocides, is also soaked twice with hot bitumen, then the formwork will last 12-15 years. For a longer estimated service life, it is better with a blind area (for a semi-winter greenhouse - with insulation) and build a brick base on it.

Note: for plants with a superficial root system (onions, radishes, carrots, melons, watermelons), the boxes can be on stands. Then the greenhouse can be multi-storey, in whole or in part.

A trench greenhouse is, roughly speaking, a series of concrete gutters (trenches) with technological passages between them. They are cast together with the foundation and covered with a common lantern. In each trench, crushed stone drainage is made with access to a cesspool or a collector common to the site, and earth is poured on top of it. Plots for different crops in trenches are separated by removable partitions reaching the drainage layer.

It is more difficult to care for a trench greenhouse than for a box greenhouse, and the likelihood of the spread of diseases in it is greater, which requires quite skillful agricultural technology. But with proper construction, soil cooling from below is completely excluded even on permafrost. In addition, it is possible to cultivate plants with a powerful deep root system, up to woody ones. Therefore, most of all winter and semi-winter greenhouses are built with trenches in places with a harsh climate.

Note: the author knows a resident of the Kola Peninsula, who, on income from potatoes, onions, garlic and tomatoes from a makeshift trench greenhouse, built himself a mansion of 230 residential squares in 5 years. When asked: “Mortgage?”, He asked in response: “What is it?”

When Form Matters

The most important factor determining the functionality of a greenhouse is the configuration of its lantern. In terms of the variety of architectural forms, greenhouses can compete with public buildings, but they most often build frame greenhouses-houses on their own, pos. 1 in the figure, tunnel faceted, pos. 2, and tunnel arches with semicircular (pos. 3) and lancet (pos. 4) arcs of arches.

small house

In the greenhouse-house, the entire operational load is carried by the frame, so the glazing can be of any kind. With the required strength for a backyard greenhouse, the simplest technologically and cheapest is a wooden frame. Modern methods of processing commercial wood make it possible to achieve its durability in greenhouse conditions up to 30-40 years. The best type of wood for construction is larch.

The easiest way to make a wooden greenhouse-house is fully ventilated; this is important for summer greenhouse cultivation, see above. The roof at a high standing of the Sun slightly shade the plants and cuts off the ultraviolet, which protects them from burns. In the southern regions, sometimes the roof slopes in the very heat are also covered with gauze or old washed sheets.

The roof of a wide-open greenhouse-house plays another role: an excess of carbon dioxide is formed in the greenhouse, because. it is heavier than air, and when heated, it cannot go up. For plants, this is like caviar for cognac: the harvest is rampant, and the fruits are one to one.

In regions with a sharply continental climate, a wooden greenhouse-house will be the best choice, especially if local lumber is cheap. In Yakutia (Republic of Sakha), for example, it is very hot in summer and watermelons have time to ripen on a layer of soil 20-30 cm above the permafrost. Small, with a large apple or orange, but it tastes like watermelon like watermelon.

Note: Yakut watermelons may seem incredible, but we, without limiting ourselves to verbal assurances, refer the reader to Yu. Yuri Konstantinovich is not related.

Watermelons and melons come from deserts, they are able to develop as semi-ephemera, quickly. However, it is useless to experiment with tomatoes, cucumbers and radishes in the open ground of Yakutia: the warm season is not enough for ripening, the roots either reach the permafrost and the plant withers, or the sun burns it - the air is clean, transparent, UV burns. A fully hinged greenhouse-house allows you to create a suitable microclimate at the right time for early ripening varieties. True, with heating at the beginning / end of the season, but here the fuel is inexpensive, and the sale of products is ensured.

A drawing with a specification for the frame of a winter-semi-winter wooden greenhouse suitable for installation on permafrost in a harsh climate is shown in fig. In European Russia, a greenhouse-house can be significantly lightened and its frame can be made from improvised materials, for example. old window frames, see below.

Note: a wooden greenhouse with polycarbonate is by no means at enmity. On the contrary, lightweight but durable polycarbonate takes on some of the operational loads, which silicate glass is not capable of. At current prices, polycarbonate coating will cost less than glazing, and the entire wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate will be stronger and cheaper.

faceted tunnel

Greenhouse houses have a significant drawback, which manifests itself in places with low insolation: when the Sun is low, the angle of incidence of its rays on the slopes is close to optimal once a day for a short time. Simply put, the greenhouse-house does not concentrate the light well and turns out to be a bit dark in winter. In an attempt to solve this problem, a faceted tunnel greenhouse appeared.

It is impractical to make the frame of a faceted tunnel from plastic, because The mechanical properties of PP turn out to be the best in the case when the cross-links of the frame are prestressed, i.e. if the frame arcs are curvilinear. Therefore, a faceted tunnel is, as a rule, a metal greenhouse made of pipes, sheathed with polycarbonate; pipes can be round, but profile pipes are more often used. However, here the problem of the joints of the frame elements arises.

Welds under greenhouse conditions are intensively corroded, especially external ones, sandwiched between the pipe and the casing. Non-destructive visual inspection in such places is not possible, so the frame is prone to sudden failure.

Note: don't try to make steel frames prestressed - ordinary rolled steel is completely unsuitable for this use! Have you heard of metal fatigue and fluidity?

In the industrial production of metal greenhouses, welding is generally abandoned, and frames are assembled on shaped plastic connectors, on the left in Fig. These are sold separately, but they are expensive and require an additional large amount of fasteners, so home-made steel frames of greenhouses are still welded, but without external seams: the workpiece is cut at an angle, bent and cooked from the inside, on the right in Fig. This requires special accuracy and accuracy in the calculation of the frame and the marking of the workpieces, but the weakened joints are immediately visible, because. the weld seam rusts faster than solid metal.

Speaking of connections

In greenhouse frames, except for wooden ones, it is impossible to drill holes and drive fasteners into them: a sharp difference in environmental conditions inside and outside will give centers of corrosion and / or dangerous mechanical stresses in such places. Non-wood frames are assembled by welding or special connecting nodes. In plastic branded kits for self-assembly, the parts in the connectors are still fixed with self-tapping screws, because. a set that requires special tools for assembly, few will buy. But serious manufacturers carefully calculate the location of the fasteners, the entire design is modeled on computers, and the prototype is run through full-scale tests before the series. And frivolous locals, not bothering themselves with painful thoughts about copyrights, simply copy the worked models.

arched tunnels

The greenhouse-tunnel of semicircular arches is the easiest to manufacture, the most wind-resistant and best of all concentrates the light. Pay attention again to pos.3 fig. with greenhouse shapes: most of the semi-circular sides seem darkish. This means that most of the light went inward and did its useful work there. And in the summer, in the heat with a high Sun, an almost flat roof gives the same effect as that of a greenhouse-house.

The material consumption of a semi-circular greenhouse and the cost of its construction are also minimal, however, snow resistance is low, and in places with a large snow load, incidents like the one in Fig. are possible, even if the structure is structurally completely correct. Therefore, in regions with heavy snow, it would be more correct to build an lancet greenhouse. It will cost 3-5% more, but it is easy to make several large windows for summer ventilation, which is important east of the Urals, mountains and rivers.

Any arch shows all its advantages only when it is tense, operational load as part of the structure or previously. For a greenhouse, as a light one-story structure, only the second option is possible. At the same time, the excellent mechanical qualities of PP are fully manifested in parts made of prestressed pipes. In combination with a working polycarbonate cladding, this brings greenhouses from it on a plastic tubular frame to a record ratio of strength, resistance and durability to cost. This implies another record - the popularity of structures of this type. Therefore, a little lower we will deal with them in more detail, but for now we will briefly consider one more arch.

Profile arch

In thin-walled three-dimensional parts, with bending radii characteristic of arched greenhouses, stresses in ordinary steel turn out to be far from its yield strength, on the one hand. On the other hand, galvanized C- and U-profiles for drywall are inexpensive, lightweight, and assembling a greenhouse frame from a profile of this type (see Fig.) seems to be elementary: a Phillips screwdriver and metal scissors are enough. When hardened with struts and crossbars, the “fresh” design comes out quite strong, even stronger than from PP pipes. And the skin can be attached to it not with clamps (see below), but somehow simpler and easier.

However, the first disappointments await the profile enthusiast already during assembly. Firstly, you have to twist a lot of screws and they are expensive. And the fingers cramped into a claw and bleeding calluses simply scream: “Well, buy, finally, you, the owner of such a screwdriver!” Secondly, the blanks marked manually and cut without a profile cutter (and there are a lot of them!) Do not connect exactly and the whole frame goes, as they say, sideways. In production, it’s easier, where the computer will calculate, transfer the data to the robot stamp, and the robot will cut it perfectly, it simply doesn’t know how badly.

But the most important disappointment awaits even before the end of the first season: the frame is rusting before our eyes. What, it would seem, should be read immediately in the specification for the profiles - they are not intended, like drywall, for outdoor use ...

plastic arches

Snow and wind...

Correctly arranging and assembling the plastic greenhouse itself is possible only if you know the wind and snow loads on it at the place of construction. The maps in fig. With the numerical values ​​of the loads, as they say, do not bother and do not expect complex formulas in the future: everything has already been reduced to the numbers of the load zones. If one of them is indicated in the text, it means the largest in this place. For example, the greenhouse will be in the 2nd wind and 6th snow zone, or vice versa. Then you need to do it for the 6th zone; features in snow and wind, if in this case they are, are negotiated.

frame

Branded greenhouse frames are assembled from special pipes on shaped connectors (see, for example, Fig.): glasses, flat and three-coordinate crosses, straight and oblique tees, splitters for several angles. They are on sale, but they are expensive and, as a rule, are designed for a specific design. Pushing around in an attempt to adapt it for yourself, you still have to buy the rest to complete the set. Which immediately and entirely would be half the price.

We will go the other way. We will get by with 3/4 inch PP water pipes and cheap connectors for them sold everywhere: straight couplings, flat tees and right angles. We will connect the details, as well as. Renting a soldering iron (more precisely, a welding machine) for propylene is inexpensive, it consumes little electricity (plugs into a regular outlet), and you can learn how to weld PP in half an hour. The finished frame of this design will come out no worse than the branded one, but much cheaper. A novice master will be able to assemble it over the weekend. Since aerodynamics and icing are more important for the greenhouse than the weight of the upper floors, the frame is designed according to aeronautical rather than building principles. Good planes fly, sometimes longer than an ordinary house costs.

Zero cycle

The main thing about preparing the base of the greenhouse has already been said earlier. It is only necessary to add that the site for the greenhouse must be planned with an accuracy of 5 cm / m, otherwise the probability of soil acidification increases. If the greenhouse is not ground, after planning, a soil slope of 6-8 cm / m is formed towards the drain into the drainage. For lightweight greenhouses, the slope is formed before the gravel formwork is installed, and for capital greenhouses, after the strip foundation is poured. The slopes of the drains of winter trench greenhouses and thermos greenhouses are formed by a screed of their floors. Don't forget about slope waterproofing!

The arcs of the arches of the considered design are tightly put on the pins of reinforcing bars protruding upwards by 40-50 cm. It is not necessary to make a ledge less, the arcs will not hold well. More - also not necessary, bent incorrectly. Under the lightweight greenhouse, the rebars are driven into the ground close to the formwork by 1 m or more, and under the capital they are walled up in the foundation for the same 40-50 cm. in the thickness of the formwork boards.

Note: in zones 1-3, the thresholds of the door and window frames are also attached to the formwork with clamps and self-tapping screws. In the upper zones, frames are made without thresholds, and their racks are put on pins from reinforcement, like arcs.

How to make a frame?

Dimensions

The standard lengths of water pipes are 6, 5 and 4 m. They form semicircular arches with a span of 3.6, 3 and 2.3 m, taking into account cutting waste and shrinkage of welding joints. These values ​​should guide the calculation of the overall dimensions of the greenhouse. Lancet arches are more reliable if the snow zone is 4th and higher. Then they go, on the contrary, from the size: the arch is drawn to scale on a graph paper (the upper corner is always straight in this case!), The length of its wing is measured with a curvimeter, a flexible ruler or laying out along the contour of a thick thread, followed by measurement, and transferred to the length of the workpiece. 20 cm are added for trimming-shrinkage. You can do the opposite: measure a piece of soft wire (for example, a copper winding wire with a diameter of 0.8-1.2 mm) on a scale, bend it as it should on a graph paper and beat off the arc wing profile on it .

Assembly

The arcs of the arches are assembled straight on a flat surface. They are put in place one by one; during the assembly process, a ridge and longitudinal load-bearing beams are mounted - stringers, pos. 1 in fig. Door and window frames, pos. 2 are assembled separately on corners, tees and straight couplings. Couplings - the basis of hinges and latches; sections of frame racks are welded into the nozzles of the couplings. Then, hinges and latches from pipe segments of a larger diameter are attached to the coupling bodies with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is possible, because there will be no permanent loads in these places, and malfunctions of hinges with latches do not affect the strength of the frame and are easily eliminated. The assembly of door panels and vents begins by threading their rear pillars into the hinge holders, then the rest is added by weight. They are sheathed with anything, on self-tapping screws in the frames of the paintings, because and these nodes are not load-bearing.

The lightest frame of this type is shown in pos. 3. Pay attention - the ridge beam, like the stepped stringers, is assembled from pipe sections on tees. In this case, the door and window frames are also fastened on tees flush with the gables.

How often to put arcs?

The installation step of the arcs is determined as follows:

• If zones 1 and 1, take a step of 1100 mm.
• In other cases, put the zone numbers and get the summary number of the load zone N.
• With the largest zone up to the 3rd inclusive, 4800 is divided by N, and the resulting value is rounded to the nearest smaller integer multiple of 50, and the step is obtained in millimeters; e.g. for 2 and 3 zones it will be 950 mm, and for 3 and 3 - 800 mm.
• If the largest zone is 4 or 5, 5600 is divided by N; further - similarly to 2 and 3 zones.
• In the largest 6 and 7 zones, 5500 is divided by N.

The dependence of the arc step on the zone, as we see, is non-linear. This is explained by the fact that as the zone number increases, stringers take on an increasing load, see below. So the design comes out a little more material-intensive, but significantly less labor-intensive.

Note 15: The 8th zone, both of which, generally speaking, is problematic. Here, it happens that snow breaks concrete floors, and the wind shifts houses from foundations. Any independent construction here is carried out at your own peril and risk, and this applies to greenhouses in full. How to get out, with a certain degree of risk, will be said later in the course of the presentation.

Gain

You can rely on the lightest frame with some apprehension in 1-2 zones, but even here it is desirable to reinforce it with at least a couple of stringers. The schemes of their location for different zones are shown in pos. A-V. Do not forget only that the coordinates are given for the longitudinal axes of the ties, and the beams themselves are stepped, like the ridge beam. With this in mind (and shrinkage for welding), it is necessary to mark the workpieces.

Attention! Pairs of stringers of the same level are always made in mirror image, pos. E!

In the 6th zone, the upper pairs of stringers are connected with crossbars (pos. E), in the 7th, the ends of the tunnel on both sides are reinforced at the bottom with braces according to the 2-1 scheme (see Fig.) In the 8th, you need to reinforce according to the 3-2 scheme -1 (see ibid), but, again, without any guarantee. It is useless to increase the number of stringers in the upper zones: figuratively speaking, they begin to push loads away from each other and, in general, the structure weakens.

How to put braces without a gusset? Moreover, the angles are fractional? Using homemade galvanized clamps 0.5-0.7 mm, see fig. on right. The workpiece is bent in a U-shape, mandrels are inserted into it from segments of a steel pipe and the ears are pressed with a vise. It is convenient to use 2 pairs of vices: in stationary desktops, they squeeze a long ear, and with smaller adjustable ones, a short one.

After crimping, the mandrel is removed, the clamp is cut to size and shape, and holes are drilled for M6 bolts. Such handicraft crimping is obtained with a shortage, but here it is only for the better: compressed by bolts in place, the clamp and pipes will grab tightly, and it will acquire monstrous rigidity for such a thin metal.

Arrows and legs

The location of the stringers on the lancet arcs is determined based on the basic semicircular with the same span, as shown in pos. E. Please note that this method is only valid for arrows with a 90 degree tip angle! You can’t make the arrowhead single without a gusset, well, you don’t need to. An additional pipe, corners and tees for a two-beam ridge, pos. I. Its halves are performed, like stringers, in a mirror. The offset from the top is the maximum; beams need to be moved as close to it as possible, according to the size of the available tees and the skills of PP welding. By the way, it is easiest to bring out both the chimney and the semicircular arch through the double ridge, it will make it stronger.

If the arches rest on vertical legs no higher than 60 cm, counting from the top of the reinforcement, then an additional stringer is placed at the junction of their wings with legs, pos D. Reinforcement in zones 7 and 8 is performed according to the same schemes, shifting one cell down, those. there should not be empty cells under reinforced ones. If the legs are higher than 0.6 m - alas! - must be considered especially, because the bottom of the frame will no longer work as a continuation of the arches, but as a separate box.

Door and window

In zones starting from the 3rd, it is necessary, and in the lower ones it is highly desirable to fasten the door and window frames not directly to the arc (slightly beveled tees create unwanted stresses in the frame), but hang them in it on half-bars and short longitudinal holders, pos. K, K1, K2. Such a mount, to an inexperienced eye, seems rather weak, but remember: a still working sheathing made of durable polycarbonate will fall on the gables. Ultimately, the frame will be no weaker and will last no less than the DC-3 or An-2 fuselage.

And under the film?

The current film greenhouses are not at all the flimsy disposable "polyethylene" of the past. A greenhouse cover made of modern reinforced film will last 5-7 years and will cost several times cheaper than a hard polycarbonate one. The special greenhouse film has another valuable property: hydrophilicity. It retains a layer of moisture up to 2 mm on its surface, which improves the transparency of the coating and enhances the greenhouse effect. Thanks to this, a modern film greenhouse can be seasonal and even semi-winter. It does not cause problems and airing film greenhouses in the heat: it is enough to tuck the edges of the canopy; they do not need a door with a window. In general, for places with a mild and temperate climate, a greenhouse under a film is the best option, but in others it makes no sense to build it.

The frame described above will go perfectly under the film. It has quite an aircraft margin of safety, and when calculating for a film, it is enough to take the zone numbers 1 higher. The pillars of the door and window frames must be left, see Fig., because they take part of the load. You can fasten the Velcro to the racks not with self-tapping screws, as in the figure, but with clamps made of thin soft wire. Not so aesthetically pleasing, but simpler, cheaper and no less reliable. If with self-tapping screws, then it is better to install direct couplings under the Velcro and wrap the self-tapping screws into their thickened cases.

Rigid roof

Film greenhouses justify themselves mainly in cases where they are temporarily installed for a relatively short period of time. For example, someone bought a plot for a forest plantation or pasture for livestock. As now with loans - everyone knows. In order to raise funds for its development, I decided to wait 3-4 years, and for the time being, rent out the land inexpensively. This is where subtenants and a farmer colleague can help out, and it’s not bad to profit from it yourself.

For long-term use, greenhouses with a rigid polycarbonate coating are more profitable. With an estimated service life of 20 years (and this is not the limit), it will cost less than 2-3-fold replacement of the film cover. In addition, you do not need to mess with its washing, removal and installation twice a year and allocate space for its winter storage. So let's take a closer look at polycarbonate.

It has already been said above that the greenhouse, in terms of its coverage, differs from other structures in a sharp difference in environmental conditions inside and outside. A coating up to several cm thick has to withstand the same loads as a half-meter stone wall. Therefore, the methods of working with polycarbonate for a greenhouse are somewhat different from them for and. How to cut polycarbonate for a greenhouse, gives an idea of ​​the video:

How do you attach it to the frame?

We will consider only individual points that are insufficiently covered in well-known sources.

Structure

Cellular polycarbonate slabs are produced in different thicknesses and structures. Plates of the same thickness can be of different structure, and vice versa. The 2R structure (see Fig.) is unsuitable for greenhouses either in terms of heat-insulating or mechanical qualities.

Structures of type R (without diagonal connections in cells) are more transparent than type RX, but they hold dynamic loads worse, therefore they are suitable for places where the wind zone is not higher than the 4th one. 3R is used where the average winter temperature is above -15 degrees or frost is below -20 for more than a day no more than once every 3 years. In other cases, you need to take 5R.

The temperature ranges for 3RX and 6RX are the same, but in cases where the wind zone is 5th and higher. For any 8th zone, the only acceptable option is 6RX. 5RX does not need to be taken, it is not very transparent. 6RX and was designed to replace the 5RX in greenhouses.

The thickness of the plates is determined as follows:

• If both zones are not higher than the 2nd, we take 6 mm.
• For other cases, we find the summary number N, as for the frame.
• For the 3rd and 4th largest zones, N is left as is.
• For the largest 5 and 6 zones, we take N + 1.
• If there is a 7 or 8 zone, we take N + 2.
• The resulting value is multiplied by 2.
• The result is rounded up to the nearest higher standard slab thickness.

Thus, for example, for 4 and 4 zones, a thickness of 16 mm is obtained, and for 8 and 8 - 40 mm. However, there are no both 8 zones in the Russian Federation.

sheathing

The standard dimensions of polycarbonate slabs are 6x2.1 m and 12x2.1 m. The general dimensions of the greenhouse are chosen such that an overhang of at least 10 cm is formed above the gables of the arched and faceted houses and along the entire perimeter of the roof of the houses. According to SNiP, the overhang should be at least 15 cm. If the greenhouse is commercial and you intend to obtain a sanitary certificate for the products, please note that the inspectors and the greenhouse will check the entire form.

The radii of curvature of the greenhouse arches allow the slabs of the most commonly used structures 3R and 5R to be laid on the frame both along and across. How would be more correct? And so, and so. It all depends on what loads in a given place are greater, static from snow or dynamic from wind. If the number of the snow zone is greater than the wind zone, it is better to lay it across, on the left in Fig. Otherwise - along, on the right there.

Note: RX structures are only laid lengthwise, otherwise sudden failure of the coating due to material fatigue is possible.

Longitudinal joints are assembled on standard FP (straight) and RP (ridge) connectors, depending on the bending radius in a given place. It is desirable to seal the upper gaps of the joints with building silicone, marked with yellow circles. It is better to take one-piece connectors, they are cheaper and there is nothing to rust in them. In extreme cases, it is still possible to separate the joint by dripping it with brake fluid and pulling the plates along in different directions.

When sheathing across, some of the seams between the plates may be hanging. In this case, the plates are connected in a known amateur way (shown in the inset): strips of flexible plastic 3-6 mm thick with sealing gaskets made of rubber or silicone and self-tapping screws. It is better to take strips and an overlay for a joint from PVC. It is strong enough, reliable and resistant for such a case. But its main advantage is in the junction - PVC quite quickly sticks tightly to the gasket and it never squeezes out from under the lining.

Mounts

Methods for attaching polycarbonate to the frame with thermal washers (pos. 1-3 in the figure) have been described many times and we will not dwell on the details. We only note that if the sheathing is longitudinal, then both ends of the plates must be pasted over with perforated self-adhesive tape and framed with an end profile.

The frame of the greenhouse, as indicated above, is highly undesirable to weaken with holes and fasteners. The skin is attached to it with clamps made of steel 1.5-3 mm thick, pos. 4 and 5. A strip 40-60 mm wide is bent along the mandrel in a U-shape, clamped together with the mandrel in a vice and the mustache is bent. The bend must be done taking into account the thickness of the rubber gaskets, and they, in turn, according to the wall thickness of the cage connectors of the frame. The thermal gap between the plates 3-5 mm wide is filled with silicone sealant.

Hut from the windows

The greenhouse from the frames of unusable windows appeared during the mass construction of Khrushchev. Firstly, then the carpentry for new buildings was of the most vile quality: “Come on with the plan! Val come on! The current generation of people will live under communism!” Therefore, many new settlers immediately changed the windows-doors to custom ones, since the materials and work then cost a penny. Secondly, the workers, i.e. officially permanently employed, summer cottages were then distributed to everyone right and left. Thirdly, penny state prices and availability are by no means and by no means friends. It is appropriate here to recall an old Soviet political anecdote. The chairman of the collective farm "Light of Ilyich" opens the general meeting: "Comrades! We have two issues on the agenda: the repair of the cowshed and the construction of communism. On the first question: there are no boards, no nails, no bricks, no cement, no lime. Let's move on to the second question.

We will move on to technical issues, they are of some use. Now, too, many windows are being replaced with metal-plastic with double-glazed windows, but the frames are still strong. Of these, you can assemble a completely reliable and durable house, if you help the frames a little to carry the load. It’s not worth covering such a structure in Khrushchev’s style with a disposable film, it’s better to spend money on a couple of sheets of inexpensive 3R 6 mm polycarbonate, which, with a greenhouse size of about 6x3 m, will make it possible to do for the roof, except for the gables, with just one roof truss. We will get a completely seasonal and commercial greenhouse for zones up to the 4th inclusive, i.e. for most of the territory of the Russian Federation suitable for agricultural use.

The design of the frame of the greenhouse under the frame is shown in fig. for clarity, the proportions of parts are given arbitrarily. Dimensions in plan - 5.7x2.7 m; internal space - 5.4x2.4 m. It will be needed for it, in addition to polycarbonate and frames, 15-16 boards 150x40 mm 6 m long and 1 beam 150x150 mm of the same length; only 0.675 cu. m of softwood, and about 5 kg of nails 70, 100 and 150 mm.

The foundation is a wooden columnar, of 6 pillars in 2 rows 1 m long. A beam is needed just for the foundation. The protrusion of the pillar at the highest point of the site above the ground is 30 cm; the rest are aligned with it by the hydraulic level. It is not necessary to deepen the pillars according to the calculation of freezing, the structure will play along with the ground for many years, it was checked on Khrushchev's "polyethylene".

The beams of the lower support frame - grillage - and the upper - strapping - are sewn on nails from boards as usual, in a zigzag, pos 1. The driving step in a row is 250-400 mm. The grillage is assembled into a prefabricated spike, and the harness into the prefabricated quarter (pos. 2) is also on nails, 5 envelopes per corner. Trimmings of boards measuring 150x150 dissolve into three, these sticks will come in handy later.

Next, the grillage is mounted on the foundation and 2 boards are spread in three lengths. Here, from the new tree, you will have to go to the old one, sort the frames. 8 solid highest ones (and preferably 10, if there is one), are immediately laid aside (on the left in the figure), they will go to the corners and, if there are 2 more, to frame the doorway. The rest are scattered over the estimated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls somehow, if only there were fewer holes, on the right in fig.

Now, from the 50x40 rail, 4 racks are cut into the height of the tallest frame plus 10 mm and nailed to the grillage vertically at the corners flush with their outer sides. The corners are sheathed on the outside with boards with a height of now racks plus 220 mm (grillage height + strapping height). The strapping is laid in the nest that has turned out at the top and the entire box is finally sewn with nails.

Frames are installed starting from the corners. How to fasten them to the box and to each other is shown in pos. 3-5. Approaching from 2 sides to the places of the future door and swing window, they put the racks of the door and window frames from solid boards. They are fastened to the grillage, strapping and adjacent frames with nails using the same scrap bars. On them, if necessary, you can dissolve another 1-2 boards.

Now it's time for the roof. Rafter trusses are made according to pos. 6. Polycarbonate is laid on the roof along. A longitudinal strip 40 cm wide is cut from each slab. In this case, roof overhangs of about 15 cm are formed, and the strips will go to the sheathing of the gables.

The penultimate stages of work, firstly, close the gaping openings in the walls with foam plastic, and foam all the gaps. Foam in this case is not only a sealant and insulation; it will give the whole structure additional connectivity and strength. Secondly, they measure the dimensions of the door and vents in place and make their frames according to fig. on right.

Before the drainage device and the launch of the greenhouse, it remains to arrange the base. In Khrushchev's times, slate or roofing material was put on it, sprinkled with earth on the outside. It is easier for us: now there is such a wonderful (without irony) material as empty plastic bottles. From they are simply stuffed under the grillage with the necks inside, only the plugs do not need to be removed. You will get excellent thermal insulation with ventilation, absolute manufacturability with maintainability and long-term durability; environmentalists all over the world are ready to howl, what should they do with these bottles. And we are free.

Note: this type of box will also go under a disposable plastic film, only it needs to be reinforced with the same 50x40 rails, see fig:

Bottled

Plastic bottles are made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Among the remarkable qualities of this material, there is a unique one: it transmits UV almost without loss. This allows you to enhance the greenhouse effect and thereby reduce heating costs and extend the operating cycle of the greenhouse. Therefore, if it is possible to get at least 400 PET containers, it makes complete sense to make a greenhouse entirely from bottles.

There are 3 options here. The first is to dissolve the bottles into sheets on long winter evenings and sew them on a typewriter with nylon or, better, propylene threads into panels of a suitable size, pos. 1 in fig. Stitching with a furniture stapler, as is sometimes advised, is not worth it: staples will cost more than threads and rust pretty quickly. You can also find tips to sew not with a thread, but with a fishing line. If their authors know where to get a machine that sews with a fishing line, or they themselves know how to sew with their hands at the same speed, then it doesn’t matter - the fishing line both in length and in weight will cost many times more than threads, and the seam will not drag out, because. the line is solid, not twisted.

The second option is to assemble something like sausages from bottles (fig. on the right), string them on steel bars and fill the frame frame with such “kebabs” vertically, with their necks down, so that condensate drains, or horizontally, pos. 2 and 3 in fig. with types of bottle greenhouses. If the street is below +10, there will be no sense from such a greenhouse without closing the gaps between the bottles, but with spring warmth it will give a greater concentration of light, which will accelerate the development of plants.

The third option - the bottles are stacked horizontally with their necks inside, pos. 4. Thermal insulation and light concentration are maximized (even houses are built this way), but you need not hundreds, but thousands of bottles. They are connected with glue or cement, which is laborious and expensive, so bottle greenhouses, so to speak, horizontal, are rare.

Is it possible in winter without heating?

The greenhouse loses a lot of heat, and its heating costs a pretty penny. The marketability of self-heating greenhouses is very limited by an excess of nitrates in the soil. In order to obtain products that meet modern sanitary standards without winter heating, a thermos greenhouse was invented.

It was invented not at all by Ukrainian craftsmen today, as ukrnet is broadcasting with might and main, but in Israel more than half a century ago. By the way, it was for thermos greenhouses that we had to come up with the same cellular polycarbonate and special thermal blocks that combine good insulating and mechanical properties. From a bare idea to a workable design, most often it takes a very long time ...

Israel is the world leader in greenhouses. Greenhouses are built there in deserts and mountains. In summer, the ground surface heats up to +60, and in winter it can be -20 for a short time. And the idea itself is that in the soil at a certain depth a constant temperature is maintained, equal to the average annual temperature in this place; in the subtropics it is about + 18-20. With an increase of 7-12 degrees from the greenhouse effect, we get just the optimum for plants up to pineapples.

The thermos is only the upper belt of the underground structure of the greenhouse, see fig. Lower, ordinary concrete, in essence air conditioning. In winter, mother earth warms it, and in summer, hot light will not flow into the pit with cool dense air. As a result, the temperature in the greenhouse can be regulated only by vents without the cost of heating and air conditioning. To enhance lighting in winter, we orient one roof slope to the south, and cover the other from the inside with aluminum foil.

In the temperate zone, the situation is different. Firstly, although the average annual here is about +15, however, heating depends not only on temperature, but also on the incoming heat flow. In order to get to the “air conditioner” of the required power, you have to go down beyond the freezing depth by at least 2 m. Already in the Rostov region, this requires a pit of 2.5 m. Secondly, peak colds do not last hours, but days . Therefore, the volume of the greenhouse needs a large one. In the same Rostov region. the minimum dimensions of the pit in terms of - 5x10 m.

With such fifty, indeed, in our area you can harvest 400-600 kg of pineapples and up to 1.5 tons of bananas per year. How to sell them? Okay, let's say we live in some distant kingdom, where consumer control for a moderate bribe in the national currency is always ready to willingly and joyfully sell heroin as a food additive, and weapons-grade plutonium as children's toys.

But half a ton of even small pineapples per piece will give about 1000 fruits. How much is 1 (one) pineapple? In a supermarket, with a branded sticker and a quality certificate for the batch? How often and how many pineapples are bought? When, in this scenario, will only the excavation of 120-130 cubic meters of soil pay off? In general, a backyard thermos greenhouse in the boreal zone can be classified as a project in which common sense and sober calculation are completely replaced by an indefatigable desire to achieve something uterine, contrary to the obvious.

Of much greater interest is a small ground-based thermos greenhouse with its own heat accumulator in the form of a heater, operating on the principle of a solar oven with a heat storage device, see fig. on right. At -5 outside, its interior near Moscow can warm up to +45. Therefore, in the arch there is a sliding hatch-temperature regulator with a clapper valve and a deflector that diverts a cold stream from plants to the zone of greatest heating.

The upper clapperboard should be triggered by the slightest breath back and forth, so its sash is made extremely light, freely moving and spring-loaded to zero balance in the closed position with a thin, 0.15-0.25 mm, steel wire. The cracker still does not save from frost, so the hatch-regulator must be closed manually at night.

The indicated dimensions are minimum; the greenhouse can be made bigger. If it is made in the form of a ridge, but for every full and incomplete 1.5 m of length along the front, you need your own hood with an air duct so that the heater warms up evenly. So, a greenhouse 2 m long should have 2 air ducts and 2 hoods. You don’t need to pull the hood high up, it’s still not a stove; the thrust here is minimal, if only the heated air seeps through the heater.

When to Minimize

The mini-greenhouse is used firstly in city apartments. Here, a part of the insulated balcony or loggia is taken under it. It is better to make a partition from the same polycarbonate. Boxes with earth are hung on the wall; at the same time, it is possible to grow exotic flowers and supply the family with radishes, strawberries, and greens in winter.

In crop production, mini-greenhouses are used to create special conditions for a certain group of plants. In an ordinary box greenhouse, for this it is enough to nail arcs from a metal-plastic pipe to the boxes and cover everything with a film, on the left in fig. For potted crops, you have to make small copies of large greenhouses, in the center there.

In the country garden economy, a mini-greenhouse made of bottles will be an excellent help, on the right in fig. above. Due to the high concentration of light, it can be transparent, and fresh air has a beneficial effect on plants in the early phases of development. In addition, with such no hassle: he took it out and put it.

There are also types of highly productive mini-greenhouses available for self-production. Here, for example, in Fig. on the right is a greenhouse made of tires. Despite the clumsy appearance, it is high-tech: a two-stage greenhouse effect and drip irrigation are used. With skillful selection of varieties, one rack of "auto-greenhouses" can produce up to half a bucket of tomatoes or 700-800 g of strawberries per day.

So what about in winter?

A small winter greenhouse can pay off either north of approximately the parallel of Kotlas, or in the very south, in the Krasnodar Territory and Stavropol Territory. In the first case, the matter is decided by rather high prices and demand, in the second - a mild winter. Both there and there, for a small private trader, in general, 2 designs are possible.

The first is a classic trench greenhouse-greenhouse, only covered with polycarbonate, see fig. below. Because the frame is fully load-bearing, when calculating the coverage, the zone number is taken 1 less. In winter, flowers and onions are grown. By the end of February, when the mulch is almost overgrown, tomatoes and cucumbers are sown and harvested at the end of April. In the summer they “greenhouse” as usual, and in the fall, when the soil crop is cheap, the trenches are refilled; this is not a matter of one day, because fresh biofuel warms up very strongly at first. Then the cycle repeats.

The second is a box greenhouse-dugout without drainage; next diagram. rice. Dugout is a relative name, because. concrete floor screed will not hurt her in any way. Excess water flows into the trays, where, under the influence of heat from the heating registers, it evaporates and humidifies the air.

It is advisable to insulate the basement and blind area of ​​the dugout greenhouse, but the foundation does not need to be insulated. In the positive belt around it, the soil will not fall asleep for the winter, which will provide additional heating in low light. In this regard, the dugout can be considered a semi-thermos greenhouse.

How to get warm?

Heating, as already mentioned, accounts for the majority of winter greenhouse costs. If the heating is water from the boiler, then the optimal system layout will be. It was specially designed for industrial premises, therefore it does not fit well into residential premises, but it is simple, inexpensive and very economical at the required temperature up to +16 degrees, and in the greenhouse the greenhouse effect will add heat to the optimum.

However, the best option for heating a greenhouse is a stove from a heater-heater such as Buleryan or Buller. Its convector nozzles placed obliquely upward direct hot air onto the roof slopes; here he does not let them freeze, and he cools down to a comfortable temperature and falls on the plants with a warm veil, creating the effect of the height of spring. You can learn more about the features of furnace heating of greenhouses from the video below.

Video: furnace heating of the greenhouse

For a greenhouse with an area of ​​​​less than 10 square meters. m, the smallest buller turns out to be powerful, because. at a very low fuel load, the efficiency of bullers drops sharply. In this case, a potbelly stove will help out from a gas cylinder of 12 or 27 liters, the efficiency of potbelly stoves is just quite high with a weak firebox. As for long-burning stoves, they are unsuitable for greenhouses: they create a weak convection center and a strong heat radiation that burns plants. Spring is like a desert.

About lighting

Greenhouse lighting requires a separate detailed discussion. Let's share a little secret here: 1 special phytolamp for 24 W can be replaced by 3 ordinary housekeepers of 13-15 W with spectra at 2700K, 4100K and 6400K. Power consumption doubles, but is still three times lower than that of incandescent lamps.

One such triad under flat conical reflectors provides sufficient illumination of an area of ​​4-6 square meters. m. Lamps should be hung in such a way that the same spectra do not coexist either in a row or between rows.

Finally

To summarize - what kind of greenhouse to build? For starters, bottles. It will quickly, simply and cheaply allow you to learn how to run a greenhouse business and feel its benefits.

Further, in a temperate climate, greenhouses made of polycarbonate on a frame made of PP pipes definitely dominate. In harsh places, a wooden roof is also preferred with polycarbonate. It is also good in that it itself has a minimal impact on the environment. On permafrost, this is vital.

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A greenhouse is essentially a unique part of your garden, because the vagaries of nature do not dominate it. The greenhouse will allow you to grow vegetables in winter or admire the plants and flowers of your winter garden all year round. And it is especially nice when it is made with your own hands. After all, the crop harvested in it will be especially tasty, and it is important that by building a greenhouse with your own hands, you will save a considerable amount. Of course, a number of questions immediately arise. What greenhouses are there and which one to choose? Where is the best place to put it? What material to choose? But don't worry, we'll answer all these questions and more. So, how to build a greenhouse with your own hands.

First of all, it is worth noting that buildings intended for growing plants are divided into greenhouses and greenhouses. A greenhouse is a more solid and complex structure. It usually has a foundation, walls and roof made of various materials. The design of the greenhouse is much simpler, it is small and mobile. A greenhouse, in principle, is not provided for the entire plant growth cycle. It is designed for growing seedlings, which are then planted in the ground.

Greenhouses are primarily divided into summer (seasonal) and winter (capital).

winter greenhouse

It is better to place a winter greenhouse closer to the communications of your home. Since the heating system must be conducted from them. Of course, you can heat the greenhouse with a stove, but it will be too troublesome. The stove must be constantly heated to maintain a stable temperature level. A capital greenhouse will definitely require a strong foundation and supports to withstand all weather factors.

Here we should also mention the greenhouse-thermos, deepened into the ground by several meters. But these greenhouses are erected an order of magnitude less frequently due to the high labor intensity and cost. For it, it is necessary to dig a foundation pit, make a strong foundation and walls from thermoblocks, install a heating system and much more.

summer greenhouse

Summer greenhouses usually mean greenhouses covered with dense polyethylene. This is the simplest and cheapest option for covering a greenhouse, which will last a couple of seasons with careful use. Usually, either a wooden frame or a frame made of PVC pipes is constructed, on which a film is attached in the spring. A large selection of inexpensive seasonal greenhouses is also available. They have an easily foldable, non-bulky design that will be easy to hide at the end of the season if necessary.

According to their shape, greenhouses are divided into:

• arched
• lean-to
• gable
• Mittlider's greenhouse
• domed greenhouses
• polygonal

arched greenhouse has an arched shape of the roof, thanks to which the sun's rays will be evenly distributed over the entire area and, accordingly, the plants will receive maximum sunlight and heat. Also, this form prevents the accumulation of a large amount of snow, so that deformation does not threaten it, and your work will be reduced.

Shed greenhouses usually attached on one side to any solid construction of the site. Perhaps the ideal option would be if it is attached to the south side of a residential, heated house. In this option, you will save not only space on your site, but also energy for heating. But in this option, unlike the previous one, snow can accumulate, so you should be careful during snowfalls.

And the most common today - gable greenhouses. They can be both winter and summer. The main advantage of these greenhouses is their size. There is plenty of room for you and your plants. In such a greenhouse, some part of the area can even be allocated as a recreation area.

The form Mittlider's greenhouses It is usually based on a gable structure (less often arched). But still, we singled it out as a separate view because of its unique two-level roof that allows you to make a transom (windows in the picture below). The transom in this case is a complete ventilation system that eliminates all the disadvantages of ventilation of other types of greenhouses. It not only ventilates, but also supplies the plants with the carbon dioxide they need to feed.

domed greenhouse is more of a design element than a fully functional greenhouse. However, it is great for growing flowers and will look great in a snowy garden. Nevertheless, it is worth noting that the domed shape provides a number of significant advantages. Among them, it is worth noting strength and stability, and most importantly, good illumination throughout the day. The disadvantage is the small size, which is often not very convenient to work with. Such a greenhouse is difficult to manufacture, so they usually buy ready-made structures.

polygonal greenhouses have, as a rule, an octahedral shape, which gives them a number of advantages, but also makes their construction more expensive and laborious. The advantages include an attractive appearance, which makes them a real decoration of the garden, as well as a number of practical qualities. It is convenient to install racks and work in them, but, most importantly, at least one of the eight faces is constantly at the best angle to the sun.

Choosing a place for a greenhouse

The effectiveness of the greenhouse will largely depend on its location. Pay attention to the following:

1. If you are planning a solid greenhouse, then to provide the necessary conditions for plants (lighting, wind), build it from west to east.
2. The amount of soil, as well as its slope, plays an important role. The greenhouse is placed only on level ground. If the soil is clayey, it must first be sprinkled with gravel, and then a layer of fertile earth should be poured. It is not necessary to install a greenhouse in a lowland, on sandy soil, in swampy areas.
3. Given the need for a supply of communications, remember the proximity to the house. As mentioned above, a good option would be to add a greenhouse to a house or other building near it. This, for example, will facilitate heating and protection from the wind and will be beneficial with a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. Most importantly, do not forget that this building should not interfere with the access of the sun.
4. To improve the temperature regime, deepen the greenhouse by 70-80 centimeters. When deepening, it is worth remembering about low-growing plants, since with excessive deepening they may receive less light.
5. Do not place the greenhouse close to the trees, they will create unnecessary shade for the plants.

Greenhouse frame

One of the key structural elements of the greenhouse, which ensures its strength and stability, is the frame. There are three most common and popular types of frame: metal, wood, plastic (PVC). Briefly about each of them:

• plus wooden frame is the convenience of its erection and more opportunities for improvisation. To protect against weather factors, wood will require mandatory processing, but despite this, the wooden frame will still yield in terms of durability to the other two. The main advantage of this material is its environmental friendliness.
• Metal carcass stands out for its durability. You should not worry about it during strong winds or snowfall. There are different options for metal frames, but if you choose a steel profile, remember the need for an anti-corrosion coating.
• PVC frame considered reliable and safe. The strength of this frame will primarily depend on the thickness of the selected profile. By using polyvinyl chloride (PVC) you can create a completely sealed system in your greenhouse and adjust the microclimate in it as you wish.

Greenhouse cover

For reliable protection of plants, you will need a good material for covering the greenhouse. The most common: glass, different types of film and products from the same PVC.

When choosing glass for a greenhouse, keep in mind that it must have high strength in order to withstand all weather disasters. The best choice would be tempered glass or triplex. In the event that it is not possible to supply one of these options, the installation of several glasses may be an option.

Film- the most popular greenhouse cover option today. With the right choice and proper care, it can last a long time. Now, various types of films are produced specifically for greenhouses and hotbeds. For example:

• Reinforced film is a particularly strong material that helps in protecting plants from frost. Most often, gardeners choose it.
• Light-transforming film - converts ultraviolet radiation into infrared, which in turn promotes plant growth.

PVC products- this is a cellular and monolithic polycarbonate and acrylic plastic that transmits light well. Polycarbonate is in the greatest demand. It has a number of notable advantages:

• relatively low price;
• material flexibility;
• does not fade and looks aesthetically pleasing;
• good thermal insulation due to the air gap;
• resistant to temperature changes and other weather factors;
• the lightness of the material, which allows you not to build an impressive frame and foundation for it;
• well scatters the sun's rays;
• ease of installation and dismantling;
• durability.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands

Before building a greenhouse, you must have a clear idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future building. To do this, you need to draw up a diagram of the greenhouse, calculate the amount of material needed and, of course, prepare the place. In order for you to get an idea of ​​the progress of construction, let's look at a visual photo example of the construction of one of the greenhouse options.

Aluminum pipes are used for the frame of the greenhouse.

To give the pipes the necessary shape, we use a simple pipe bender.

Clearly, if you are using PVC pipes, this step will not be needed.

The result should be the following.

In our example, pipes of larger diameter are used to fix the arches of the greenhouse frame. They are driven to a depth of 40-50 cm. The height of the pipes above the ground should be about 30-40 cm.

Instead of pipes of a larger diameter, ordinary fittings with the same dimensions can be used for fastening. It is hammered into the ground in the same way, and the arches of the frame are put on from above.

Along the perimeter we install boards (plinth), pre-treated with an antiseptic. Then we drill a hole through the board and both pipes. Then securely fasten with bolts. We fasten the boards to each other with metal jumpers.

Using a wooden beam, we collect the frames of the "fronts".

We fasten the transverse arcs with a longitudinal pipe.

We sheathe the wooden frame with siding or plain plywood, and then paint it.

We cover all potentially sharp and rough edges so as not to tear the film.

It remains to put the door and cover the greenhouse with foil. Let's talk more about film mounting options.

Fixing the film on the greenhouse

We list the most popular mounting options:

• Wooden slats nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws. Alternatively, instead of rails, you can use chopped linoleum or packing tape, and fasten them with a construction stapler. But this option is better to use for a reinforced film, since other types will inevitably tear over time from gusts of wind.
• Clamps, clips. Now there is a large selection of such mounts, so there will be no problems in acquiring. But if desired, they can be made independently, for example, from PVC pipes. It's not difficult at all, and with a little experimentation, you're sure to make the right ones. If you buy metal clips, then do not forget to put something under them, as heating up in the sun, the metal can ruin the film.
• Mesh is the safest mounting option. After we cover the greenhouse with a film, we lay a grid on top of it, which is tied to the body. Of course, some additional film mount, at least minimal, should be present. Otherwise, after every heavy rain, you will have to correct it. Instead of a net, a rope can in principle be used, although this is more troublesome.

We reviewed with you, we hope that this article was useful to you.

In summer cottages, you can find various forms of greenhouses in which both vegetable and flower plants are grown. Thanks to this, you can cultivate non-seasonal crops throughout the year. The success of the business will depend not only on the design of the greenhouse, but also on what material was used in its manufacture. Our goal is to tell you what types of greenhouses are, and what material can be used in their construction, and we will also look at how the process of building a greenhouse takes place in a summer cottage.

Depending on the design features, greenhouses can be:

• arched;
• lean-to;
• gable.

The construction of the first type is characterized by a roof in the form of an arc, which allows the plants growing inside the greenhouse to receive more daylight. The big advantage of this form will be the absence of snow in the winter, so the deformation and breakdown of the structure does not threaten you.

If you decide to install a greenhouse close to any summer cottage, then the option with a pitched roof will suit you. This model is very economical, since you, in addition to reducing the cost of materials, save free space on the site. The only drawback of this design will be the accumulation of snow in winter, which will have to be cleaned off to protect the structure from deformation.

The most common option is the gable shape of the greenhouse, which is very spacious for plants and humans. In some cases, summer residents equip a semblance of a recreation area in such buildings, which allows you to combine business with pleasure.

Types of greenhouses, their advantages and disadvantages

To date, summer residents are presented with several options for materials that can be used to cover greenhouses and greenhouses. They differ in their structure, price and performance characteristics, so you can choose the material according to your capabilities and requirements.

The most popular material for covering greenhouses will be:

• glass;
• polycarbonate;
• film.

If you are not limited in funds, then the best option would be glass and polycarbonate greenhouses, which differ in their strength and performance characteristics. Film is a budget option for greenhouses that has been used for several decades.

About what your greenhouse should be, you can see in the video below:

Advantages and disadvantages of greenhouses from various materials

To figure out which material for greenhouses is better, you need to consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Glass

This material is considered the most suitable option.

Its advantages include:

• transparency, which allows you to provide the greenhouse with daylight;
• resistance to chemicals, even if they get on the glass, they are easily washed off;
• when exposed to sunlight, the material does not emit harmful toxic substances;
• wind resistance.

Its disadvantages include:

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is a polymeric plastic that is increasingly being used in covering greenhouses.

Its advantages include:

• strength;
• transparency;
• high rates of thermal insulation;
• protection of plants from UV rays;
• unpretentiousness in care.

Its disadvantages are:

Film

This material is distinguished by its ease of use and budgetary qualities, especially since the experience of using such material has been confirmed for decades.

Its advantages include:

Its disadvantages include:

• windage;
• poor resistance to frost, which is why it has to be removed after summer use;
• short service life.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse construction

Summer residents are forced to build greenhouses for growing vegetable or flower crops, firstly, in order to get a crop earlier than usual, secondly, in order to grow crops that are not suitable for this or that climate, and, thirdly, to increase the amount of harvest.

Greenhouses allow you to create favorable conditions for the growth of any plants. If it is not possible to purchase a finished structure, then you can always build it yourself, using all your skills for this.

The first question you will have is how to get started? So that you do not have to rack your brains for a long time, we have compiled an action plan for you, following which you can easily build a greenhouse on your site.

Place for a greenhouse

The first thing you need is to choose a place for the location of the greenhouse. To do this correctly, pay attention to the following requirements:

Dimensions and shape of the greenhouse

The second question that you need to decide is the size of the greenhouse. To calculate everything correctly, consider how much and what you will plant in the greenhouse. If you plan to plant tall plants, then the best shape of the greenhouse will be arched or gable, the height of which will provide you with convenient crop care. You can calculate the dimensions yourself, or take as a basis the proposed version of a rectangular greenhouse with a gable roof.

The base of the greenhouse can be anything, round, square, rectangular or trapezoidal, it all depends on your capabilities.

Greenhouse frame

The frame is the main part of the greenhouse, so there are special requirements for the choice of material. It must be strong and durable, so for its manufacture choose:

• galvanized profile;
• steel profile;
• profile made of galvanized steel, with a square section;
• wooden beams.

The choice of material also depends on your capabilities, even the most budget option - wood, can stand for quite a long time.

How to make a greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate can be seen in the video:

Greenhouse foundation

In addition to its direct purpose, the foundation plays the role of a pocket in which several high beds are placed. If its construction was carried out incorrectly, then this can lead not only to its destruction, but also to cracking of the greenhouse cover. To avoid this, you need to listen to our advice:

It is necessary to install formwork around this trench, lay metal bars of reinforcement into it and pour it all with concrete. The height of the foundation must be at least 20 cm.

If you follow these rules, you will create a solid and reliable foundation for the greenhouse, which will not be subject to soil movement.

Frame fabrication and coating

The manufacture of the frame begins with the marking of the future greenhouse. You have already calculated what size your structure will be and even poured a foundation under it, now you can start assembling the main structure:

Ventilation

Inside the greenhouse, under the influence of sunlight, a greenhouse effect is created. To create an ideal microclimate for plants, greenhouses have to be equipped with a ventilation system.

Vents located on the sides of the greenhouse, or doors can act as ventilation. Airing contributes to the fact that plants planted in a greenhouse get sick less after transplanting into open ground. But drafts must be avoided so as not to harm them.

When placing such vents in the roof of the greenhouse, you can ensure the movement of warm air to the street, and open doors will ensure the passage of cool air. There will be no draft, and the air will change.

If you have a small greenhouse, then two vents located on the roof of the greenhouse will be enough for good air exchange.

In order for air exchange to take place faster, instead of roofing vents, it is better to equip side ones, which will be located above the ground.

For the cultivation of tropical plants, conventional ventilation cannot be used, therefore, vents can be equipped as ventilation according to the principle of blinds.

Greenhouse Tricks

Summer residents who have been involved in greenhouses for more than a year can tell a lot of tricks on which the yield of vegetable or other crops depends. But everyone, without exception, will answer that growing plants depends on the crop itself, on the amount of heat supplied, on the length of daylight hours, on ventilation, on proper watering and regular feeding.

With some of these subtleties and tricks, we will share with you:

From the foregoing, we can conclude that several types of material can be used to make a greenhouse, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. If you are thinking of making a greenhouse yourself, then by adhering to our action plan, you will do it without much difficulty. Remember that equipping a greenhouse with vents is as necessary as watering plants.