How to make cathedrals and castles out of paper. How to make a door lock

Often a purchased lock with the usual installation method is not reliable, so many car owners try to make an original model of a home-made garage lock with their own hands.

This is an easy way to ensure a restful sleep, because the garage, the property inside it will be protected from intruders. How to make a locking mechanism yourself, what is needed for this, this article will tell.

The issue of protecting a garage building from intruders is always acute, and especially for those people who drive a brand new car of a prestigious brand. Fraudsters try to get just such cars in order to resell them further. A homemade lock with a secret will help protect the motorhome from the penetration of strangers.

Such products are distinguished by a simple design, a special key will help to open them. It is extremely difficult to choose a master key for opening a homemade locking mechanism, because it is created according to an individual sketch. It is this quality that is the most important advantage of such mechanisms.

Installation of self-made locks for the garage, made by hand, is carried out from the inside of the building. For this reason, the locking mechanism is completely invisible to the eye of an outsider. Under such conditions, even an avid burglar may hesitate or even change his mind to penetrate inside the building, because this will require a lot of time and effort from him.

The process of making home-made locks for a garage with your own hands should be started if high-quality materials are at hand, there is access to steel hardening, a lathe, a milling machine. Then it is worth constructing a really durable, reliable screw lock.

If you have a certain kind of skills, you can even create an electric lock. But if such skills are not enough, you can go the other way. It is worth redoing the finished product, modernizing it in a certain way.

Refinement of purchased locks

If there is no relevant material at hand, a lathe, you can make an attempt to modify the finished locking mechanism with your own hands to the garage.

But before you get started, you should figure out what types of such units exist. Consider the classification of products according to the specifics of installation, presented in the table.

View	Advantages	How to hack
Mounted	Affordable.	They are not considered overly reliable, because such a lock can be removed using a conventional hacksaw. It simply cuts off the loops of the unit, which is not accompanied by noise. Units of this type are knocked down with a sledgehammer even in the presence of a very cunning design.
Overhead	They have higher reliability.	To get inside the atvodoma, you can open the lock with a master key, saw the deadbolt with a jigsaw in a few minutes, or simply knock out the doors.
Mortise	They are characterized by the highest level of reliability, since after installation they become a single part of the door leaf.	Units can be opened with a master key or cut off their deadbolt with a special tool.

Padlock for garage doors.

Let's describe how to refine each type:

Mounted. It is optimal to complement the gate with such a locking mechanism with another lock made by yourself. A hidden electric lock will do. You can upgrade a conventional single-pin attachment by adding another pin with custom slots.
Overhead. To prevent the risks of hacking, it is worth supplementing the unit with an electrical circuit and a servo mechanism. The mechanism will work only if the key is turned inside the lock or it will open using the remote control. The system will turn out similar to a car alarm.
Mortise. You can modify the larva of such a lock so that the key is unique. Then it will be difficult to pick up a master key for hacking. Another way to modernize a mortise lock is to lengthen its deadbolt.

On a note! When reworking, it is important to take into account the characteristics of a particular type, so as not to break it, but to strengthen the protective qualities of the locking mechanism.

At first glance, locks created by the hands of craftsmen will certainly turn out to be of high quality. But many of them are too simple, defenseless against crackers. For example, a rack and pinion lock with a "secret" key is not really a quality product.

The highlight of the mechanism is considered to be a turning bar on the key, the length of which is “kept secret”. Yes, the burglar does not know the length of this part, but he will be able to make its cardboard counterpart, which he will then cut until the machine starts to crush it. When he comes next time, the thief will already open the garage, take everything of value from it.

Practical example

Many car owners do not understand how to make a good do-it-yourself locking mechanism from a finished product of low reliability. Let's describe a practical example of protecting a car for little money. It is suitable for a motorhome that is located close to the cottage and opens from the house.

The garage door must only be locked from the inside. Design for them one of the homemade locks with a secret for the garage. The power of the crossbar should be veiled so that an outsider, when looking at the open door, does not understand which element holds the gate. From the side of the water gate, it will be possible to enter the motorhome only with the help of a ram with a truck.

A separate door inside the house, through which the car owner enters the motorhome, is equipped with an internal and conventional lock. Internal is a solenoid-type electric lock with the ability to control it from home. If the doors are closed with a conventional lock, the solenoid will also close.

Homemade lock device.

Hacking a conventional unit with a master key will not allow thieves to get inside the motorhome. Residents of the cottage, before leaving it, will open the electric lock by supplying power to it, and so they will unlock the gate, after which they will open the usual lock.

Electric locks on the garage should be installed so that it attracts as little attention as possible. The solenoid assembly is often powered by 24 volts, a few amps of current when triggered, and even less current to hold it open.

It is possible to equip the electric lock with a latch with an electromagnetic control method. Or prefer an electromagnetic model with a beveled bolt, which fixes them when closing the gate.

So that a home-made garage lock with a falling bolt and a key does not freeze in winter, its body is heated. Wrap the unit with fiberglass, wrap it with nichrome wire, 0.3-0.5 mm thick. Choose the length of the wire so that the heating of the solenoid at room temperature reaches 70 degrees.

The voltage source will be the same as for powering the solenoids. Next, cover the nichrome wire with a layer of fiberglass, a tin casing. Nichrome and copper wires are connected by welding, neatly brought out.

On winter days, it is enough to carry out heating a few minutes before opening the gate for the units to work flawlessly. As a result, you will get a cunning castle, which will not be easy to eliminate.

Outcome

Making a garage lock with your own hands will provide reliable guarantees that an attacker will bypass the motorhome. It is much more difficult to crack such garage doors, since the homemade product is unique in its parameters.

Workshop on making a medieval castle from waste material

Author: Yunusova Alsu Rifkhatovna, educator, Kindergarten No. 177, Kazan.
Description: a master class for educators, preschool teachers and parents.
Purpose: the castle can be used for role-playing, story games and activities, as an interior item and props for various events.
Target: developing children's imagination and interest in games and activities.
Tasks: to awaken the interest and desire of adults to create a beautiful and useful play environment for children.
background
- Mom, I'm very glad that I have a Princess Sofia doll! But princesses must live in a castle! And let's make her a big, beautiful, real castle! My six year old daughter told me. Indeed, what would a princess be like without a castle?! After walking around the Internet, inspired by the works I saw, I created in my head the image of my daughter's dream castle and my own, probably. So, our castle for Princess Sofia.
We needed:
4 square-shaped boxes (for example, from milk), 4 jars in the form of a cylinder (for example, from chips), a cardboard box - the base of the lock, scissors, pencil, stationery knife, glue stick, ruler, toothpicks, paper with imitation masonry pattern of two types, paper with a print of windows and flags in the medieval style (I downloaded the images and printed on a color printer).

Working process

From a cardboard box around the perimeter, I cut out a base for a castle 15 cm high.

I made cuts on the jars to put them on the corners of the cardboard base. This must be done before gluing paper under the stone, otherwise the paper will collapse and deteriorate when cutting.

I checked whether the jar sat well, whether it reached the base.

Further, 4 boxes and 4 jars were pasted over with paper under masonry in the medieval style (the pattern of stones is smaller than that of the fence). After gluing, you need to go through the cuts on the jars again to cut the paper. For the rear towers I took jars higher. It is best to use a glue stick, liquid glue spreads and the paper softens.

It's time for the fence. I opened the cardboard base and glued it on both sides with paper under the masonry. I used a pattern with a large stone.

After the fence was glued on both sides with paper, it was assembled back into a rectangular base, glued and planted jars in the corners.

I made teeth on the fences so that it would look like a real castle for princesses and knights. I cut them with a clerical knife through an equal distance.

These are the windows I glued on each box and jar.

For the roof, I used paper with a tile print. I cut out circles and made roof cones from them for all the jars and boxes. On the front side of the fence, I cut out the gate with a clerical knife and decorated the edges with brickwork. I glued the coat of arms of the castle on top of the gate (I downloaded and printed the drawing).

It's time to collect the castle. I glued 4 boxes like this: 2 on the back fence, one on the side fences and their windows looked at the courtyard of the castle.

It remains to decorate the roofs with a flag. To do this, I printed the drawings of the flag in normal and mirror form.

I cut and glued them together, leaving a toothpick inside.

I put a flag on top of each box and jar. Our castle is finished and ready to receive princesses, knights, dragons and all other inhabitants. It turned out that such a castle is interesting not only for girls, but also for boys. I found out when I took it to the kindergarten and showed it to my children, they were delighted!

Today, the stores offer a huge assortment of toys, but they cost

quite expensive. To a child, try to make them yourself. You can also invite the kid to participate in the process, this will allow him to develop his imagination and logic, and besides this, you will get great pleasure from joint creativity. The following describes how to make a paper castle that will appeal to both a boy and a girl. You can take the schemes described in this article as a basis, but this does not mean that you need to stop there - turn on your imagination and create your own unique palace. Additionally, such a product can be used as a decoration - a stand for confectionery.

Tools for the job

For a craft like a paper castle, you will need:

cardboard box;
sand;
paints;
the cloth;
sawdust;
cans of chips;
glue;
scissors;
pen.

Step-by-step instruction

To learn how to make a castle out of paper, you need to study the following information:

Now you just have to come up with an interesting story and please your beloved child with a new fairy tale.

How to make a paper castle

When you have children, it does not matter at all whether it is a boy or a girl, the main thing is that they all love fairy tales and believe in miracles. Any child will be happy with such a gift. To make the castle as accurately as possible with your own hands, you need to spend a lot of time and effort, but your favorite offspring are worth it.

For work, you need to take the following accessories:

Instruction

In order for a castle made of paper with your own hands to be the most accurate copy of the original, follow the following rules:

Helpful information

The paper castle, the schemes of which are present in this article, will help you realize your child's dreams and give him a piece of happiness. If the craft will be used not only as a decor, do not forget about its stability. For example, you can fix each part with adhesive tape, which must be fixed from the inside. The same palace can be made for a little princess by simply decorating it in bright fabulous colors. Now you know the detailed instructions on how to make a castle out of paper. Go ahead, please yourself and your child.

Which ones did I tell you about recently? So, it all started with them. Because princesses, you know what they are? They don't want to live in an ordinary dollhouse! Give them a castle! And certainly from cardboard! Can you imagine? It was in approximately these terms that my daughter turned to me with a request for an urgent provision of a separate living quarters for the princesses.

I started to rack my brains, like what. As usual, I went through the Internet on the topic of cardboard castles and palaces made of cardboard, looked at some interesting ideas, took out cardboard (fortunately, we always have a lot of this stuff, since we love dry breakfasts very much), took out toilet paper rolls (oh, what do we have in there is no pantry!), scissors, a pencil, a ruler, sat down in front of this whole pile and ... And nothing ... no ideas. At all. Complete stupor. I attached parts this way and that, it doesn’t work like a stone palace and that’s it ... In short, on the first evening of working on the project, the first glimpses of my creative consciousness began to appear after about an hour of almost meditative contemplation of a pile of garbage. Here is what happened as a result of this meditation.

But in the morning, there was a clear understanding in my head that the castle consists of two main parts: a) from the palace, b) from the fortress. That is, a castle is a palace, inside a fortress.

And now the creative consciousness is already awakened, the process is launched and away we go!

FORTRESS:

It was decided to make the base of the fortress out of two boxes, laying the boxes on top of each other with a shift.On the sides, it was decided to attach walls - two more boxes.

The walls of the fortress were pasted over with strips of cardboard with denticles, which turned out to be real fortress walls, on which sentinels can walk.

The walls were glued to the base with PVA glue.

From above they pressed down with a load to stick better.

But, as the chief architect, the child asked, how will the princesses climb these walls? I had to make stairs.

Here you can see where they are glued.

The round towers of the fortress are made of three rolls of toilet paper, connected with adhesive tape. The towers themselves are also attached to the walls of the fortress with adhesive tape.

The central gate, that is, the entrance to the castle, was made of cardboard, bent with the letter L. The lower part was glued to the base of the fortress with double-sided tape, the upper part was stapled to the towers in two places.

And then we unexpectedly came in handy with a part of the chain that remained after shortening the handle on my daughter's handbag. Thank you dad for saving it just in case!

The chain is attached to the wall like this: it is inserted into through holes, ordinary paper clips are attached to the ends. The clips prevent the ends of the chain from slipping out and serve to facilitate the closing of the gate. Here is an interactive element for you!

The chain is attached to the door on the wire as if you were sewing on a button.

I cut out the loopholes of the fortress from some picture found on the Internet, reduced it to the required size, duplicated it and printed it out. The picture came in black and white, so I had to color it by hand. But that's just more interesting, right?

The final touch is brickwork. I drew it with wax crayon over a painted and well-dried wall.

CASTLE:

The palace was made from a box from a magnetic alphabet and cardboard, twisted into tubes and stapled on both sides. Moreover, the extreme turrets turned out to be composite. Small cylinders are not attached to anything, they can be removed. Many small incisions were made on the bottom of the cylinder of the central tower, bent outward and glued on double-sided tape.

The base on which the towers of the palace are installed is a box that has a part with a hole to make it easier to hang the goods in the store. It is not fixed to the base by anything, it is held solely by this hanging part inserted into the slot made in the cereal box. But holding on tight. Round side towers are attached to the box with double-sided tape.

The palace must have a balcony, and for this we attached a cardboard folded with the letter C to the wall of the building with double-sided tape. Attached to the base with double sided tape.

From above, they covered this case with an arch-shaped cardboard, inserted this cardboard into the slot and glued it on the back side inside the box with a glue stick.

According to an idea spied on the Internet, such railings were originally planned on this balcony.

As a result, it turned out like this:

The halves of the toothpicks are attached to the cardboard with hot glue, the beads are put on top and are not fixed by anything. On top of the toothpicks, a piece of braid is glued to the hot glue, which has remained since the time of manufacture.

To the balcony of the palace, at the request of the chief architect, ladders were also attached.

In addition, our architect could not figure out how the princesses could get to the large balcony from the entrance to the fortress? Indeed, there was no direct route, but it was not a princess thing to jump through the air, we had to cut a through passage from the courtyard to the balcony.

The roofs of the palace towers were made of colored cardboard. Color scheme - daughter's. Empirically, that is, through trial and error, we got a pattern for cones from a newspaper, it turned out that half the circle from a reel of adhesive tape fit well in size. They cut out semicircles, rolled them into a cone and fixed them with a stapler.

Each princess castle has spiers with flags fluttering in the wind. Therefore, flags were cut out of the same colored cardboard, glued together and put on skewers for barbecue. Then these skewers were attached to the roofs with hot glue.

Windows, as in the case of the fortress, were found on the Internet. We were more lucky with these windows - we managed to find colored ones that matched the color scheme.

One of the integral parts of castles and fortresses is a wooden lattice door. She, or rather them, because we have two of them, we made from ice cream sticks, fastened together with PVA glue.

I love ice cream sticks! :) We even made them out of them. :)

Since we made the castle in the evenings, due to good weather, the project was delayed. But you know princesses! They are so impatient! Therefore, we started painting the castle when it was not yet finished.

Do you want to surprise your neighbors in the country? Do you dream of plunging into the atmosphere of the Middle Ages? Then build a medieval castle on your site. You can, of course, purchase a prefabricated version in a children's toy store, but at a cost of several thousand rubles, it will look like a large plastic toy. The castle, created by yourself, will look like a real one, and its size and appearance are limited only by your imagination.

Materials: stone or wood

For a structure consisting of three walls with towers, you will need the following materials:

Styrofoam - 5 sheets measuring 100 x 60 cm x 3 cm
Insulation for pipes "foam", diameter 110 mm - 4 pcs x 1 m
Decorative plaster based on colored chips - 1-2 large cans
Small stone or marble chips - 1 kg
Acrylic paint to match the plaster - 1 can or can
Dark acrylic paint (black or brown) - 1 can or can
Plastic flower pots (for roofs) - 2 pcs.
Glue for polystyrene foam (for example, "Moment Installation") - 2 large tubes
Long screws (for flagpoles) - 2 pcs
Mounting foam + gun - 2 cans

Instruments

Thin knife - 1 pc, screwdriver - 1 pc.
Meter ruler, short ruler, felt-tip pen or marker.
Narrow paint brushes - 4-5 pcs.
Spatula - 1 pc.
Large brushes for painting teeth - 2 pcs.
Insulating tape - 1 pc.
Modeling mass (black or brown) - 1 pack

Stage 1. We draw a diagram of the future structure

First you need to determine the constituent parts of the future castle - the number of walls and towers. I offer schemes of three types of walls that can be combined in any quantity. I decided to start with three walls and six towers - three round and three square. You can start work from any wall.

Stage 2. How to make a DIY wall layout

WALL-1. To make it, we need two sheets of foam (preferably white) and two plastic flower pots.

This is how it looks when finished:

We draw a scheme of walls

On one sheet of foam, draw a diagram of the wall with a felt-tip pen. She will be the carrier. The height of the towers is equal to the height of the sheet. The width of each tower is equal to the width of the cache-pot (roof) minus 1 cm. The distance between the teeth must be at least half the width of the teeth. The height of the walls and the middle part is approximately two thirds of the height of the towers. At the edges of the wall, it is necessary to leave 5 cm of an area free of teeth. You will then hide this part under the tower. Carefully cut out with a knife. In the middle part we cut out the gate. We do not cut out windows on the towers.

We draw blanks of towers

On the second sheet of foam we draw blanks for towers - 6 pieces, 3 for each tower. The size of the blanks is equal to the size of the towers. We cut out windows on four blanks. We do not throw away the cut pieces, they will later be useful to us when painting. We glue the blanks of the towers on top of each other on the load-bearing wall in the place marked for the towers - we glue two blanks on the front side of the wall (glue the blank with windows on top), glue the second blank with windows on the end side of the bearing wall. As glue, you can use Moment Installation glue. If you intend to use a different adhesive, be sure to first test on scraps of Styrofoam to see if the adhesive is corroding the Styrofoam. The same goes for colors. As a result, we get a wall with two towers, each of which has a thickness of 4 foam sheets. There are blank windows on the front and back walls of the towers. Windows need to be painted inside with dark paint. You also need to paint over the inside of the gate arch and the gate itself. If the side walls of the towers turned out to be protrusions due to the discrepancy in the dimensions of the blanks glued to each other, it is necessary to cut the towers on the sides, aligning the side walls.

We try on the "roof" on the towers. The cache-pot should be freely put on the tower and go on it by 1-2 cm. Please note that after painting the dimensions of the tower will increase by 5-10 mm. Therefore, if the "roof" is difficult to put on, then the tower must also be cut.

After the dark paint dries, a “lattice” can be made on the gate. To do this, using a ruler with a screwdriver or scissors, we make deep grooves in the form of a lattice on the painted gates so that unpainted light foam shines through them.

Painting the castle walls

Let's start with the teeth. Painting the teeth with plaster is the most time-consuming operation, so they must first be painted with paint to match the plaster, and the composition itself can only be placed on the front and back sides. You can generally not cover the teeth with plaster, but paint with paint from a spray can in a contrasting dark color, as we did on the third wall.

So, first we paint the teeth with paint to match the plaster. We use spray paint to paint over each tooth from all sides. Let's dry. Then we cover the front surface of wall-1 with decorative plaster. At this time, it is better to lay window openings with pieces of polystyrene foam so that the plaster does not get inside. The brush should be fairly hard and clean. After painting, if possible, it should be washed off the plaster and put into water. It is better not to use one brush more than twice because of stuck plaster. We are not painting the side walls of the towers yet. We will paint them last. We leave the wall blank-1 to dry in the sun for two days. After two days, we turn the product on the back side and also cover it with decorative plaster. In the meantime, it dries, you can do other walls.

WALL-2. For its manufacture, we need two sheets of foam.

This is how it looks in finished form (the outermost prong on each side then had to be cut off):

This wall is a variation of the first wall. Only here the tower is in the middle, and the gate is on the side. In addition, the teeth, as well as the tower, are cut from another sheet, and the windows are made through. The windows on the right side of the wall are lined with tabs painted dark. The windows on the left side are through. The height of the walls and the tower is equal to the height of the sheet.

So, we mark the gates, windows and a place for the tower on the first sheet. We cut out all windows, incl. and on the tower, we paint the cut out pieces of windows in a dark color. Then we paint in dark color the openings of windows and gates, as well as the gates themselves. After applying the plaster, you will need to insert the dark pieces of windows on the right side of the wall back into the openings. Leave the rest of the windows blank.

From the second sheet we cut out two blanks with windows. We make windows on the same level with the windows located on the tower, on the load-bearing wall. Separately, we cut out two or four blanks for the teeth for the right and left parts of the main wall. We glue the tower blanks on the front and back sides of the load-bearing wall, aligning the window openings. Then we also glue the teeth - on both sides of the load-bearing wall. I glued the teeth on only one side, using only two blanks, because. originally planned to make an extension behind the second half of the wall. The tower is made up of three layers. The thickness of the tower can be increased by adding an additional false wall glued to the front side of the tower (as we did when making wall-1).

Do not forget to leave the edges on both sides free from 3-5 cm teeth, which will then be hidden under the towers, and make rectangular cutouts for joints measuring 3 x 1.5 cm along the edges on the back of the wall.

We paint over the teeth with paint to match the plaster. After the paint dries, we cover the front side of the wall with decorative plaster (you can not cover the teeth with plaster). Then we sprinkle a part of the wall around the gate with small stone chips and, patting, melt the crumbs into the plaster. Crumbs can be sprinkled on the second half of the surface. After that, we leave the entire structure to dry for a couple of days, while we ourselves will be engaged in the manufacture of the third wall.

WALL-3. For its manufacture, we need one whole sheet of foam and pieces of the sheet remaining after the manufacture of the second.

This is how it looks in finished form (the extreme teeth then also had to be cut off in order to hide the edge in a round tower):

This type of wall is quite simple to manufacture, but looks quite impressive. Three and teeth are glued to the main sheet. The teeth are painted with acrylic paint in a contrasting color. After painting with plaster, the wall is covered with a thin layer of stone chips.

The teeth on this wall have a more complex structure - the top row is formed from wide teeth (3x3 cm), and the bottom row from narrow ones (4x1.5 cm).

We cut out the teeth from strips 10 cm high. To do this, the strip must be divided into 3 parts - 3 cm high, 3 cm and 4 cm high. On the first strip 3 cm high, we cut out teeth 3 x 3 cm in size, the distance between them is -1.5 cm. On the lower strip with a height of 4 cm, we make a triangular cut at an angle along the length of the entire strip, leaving a strip 1 cm thick at the bottom. After that, on the lower strip, we cut out long teeth measuring 1.5 x 4 cm. The distance between the lower teeth is no more than 1.5 cm Then we paint the teeth with paint using a spray can and a thin brush, carefully painting between them. The teeth can be painted either to match the plaster or in a contrasting color.

Then, from the remains of the foam, we cut out three retaining walls in the form of triangles or trapezoids, the height of which should be at least a third and not more than half the height of the wall. We glue the supports and teeth on the main wall. Do not forget to leave 3-5 cm free from teeth on both sides, which will then be hidden under the towers, and make rectangular cutouts for joints measuring 3 x 1.5 cm along the edges on the back of the wall.

We put the structure face up and cover everything except the teeth with decorative plaster:

Then we sprinkle the entire surface with small pebbles, gently pressing them into the plaster.

While the third wall dries, you can paint the reverse side of the first two with plaster, if their front sides have already dried by this moment. Lastly, we paint over the sides of the towers, placing the walls on the end. Let each side dry for two days.

Now you can start working on the corner round towers.

Stage 3. Round towers of the knight's fortress

For the manufacture of round towers, you can use any thick pipes of the desired diameter that can be processed with a knife, for example, “shells” for pipe insulation made of foam. If they are not there, then you can use a foam pipe insulation with a diameter of 110 mm, which is sold on any construction market.

For the manufacture of three towers, we need four meter pieces of foam. From each of the four pieces we cut off cylinders 8-10 cm long and cut out teeth half the height of the workpiece. We cut the ring of teeth along the height and glue them on top of each of the three towers, wrapping them around the main part of the tower. We cut off the missing pieces with teeth from the fourth workpiece. While the glue dries, for a better fit, we fix the seams with electrical tape.

Next, on each tower we make longitudinal cuts along the length, equal in height to the height of the walls (60 cm) and in width - a little more than twice the thickness of the walls. The width of the cuts can be increased after painting, when you insert walls into them.

For variety, one or more towers can be decorated with an additional cylinder with tall narrow windows. The overlay is made from the remaining fourth piece of foam.

While the glue dries, we paint over the windows on the tower with black paint, and only after that in three or four steps we cover the elements with plaster, turning them by 90-120 degrees. Carefully paint over the teeth.

While the towers are drying, you can start making small parts for them and walls, such as roofs, flags, coats of arms, cornices, small windows. The number of details depends only on your imagination and patience. You just need to keep the proportions.

Metal buttons and stripes can be used as a coat of arms. Flags can be made from colored self-adhesive paper, but it is better to use self-adhesive film. We stick the flag on a long screw. Screws are screwed into plastic flower pots. We paint the cache-pot in red, drawing some details with black paint. The coat of arms is attached above the gate with the same plaster or glue.

Masonry elements can be added to rectangular towers and walls. To do this, you can use the black modeling mass, which is sold in children's stores and in the stationery departments. You can also use plasticine, but the advantage of the mass for modeling is that in air, unlike plasticine, it freezes.

We made the roof for the middle tower from a half of black paving slabs.

By the way, after the plaster on the round turrets dried up and the towers stood in the rain for several days, the plaster began to move away from the foam near the edges of the cut, like an orange peel, and we had to additionally glue this “peel” with Moment Montazh glue. Helped.

After drying, you can proceed to the most important stage - the assembly of the castle.

Stage 4. Assembling a medieval castle

Despite the fact that the design of the castle allows it to be moved to any place, it is still better to assemble the building on the site where it will stand.

The site for the castle must be prepared in advance. It should be flat and preferably without a slope. We made a castle to decorate the pond, so our platform had a slight slope towards the pond, which added additional difficulties for us when installing it. In order for the castle to stand evenly, it was necessary to cut the walls at an angle from below, since the foam plastic, even covered with massive plaster, is easily cut.

Having installed and connected the walls to each other, it is necessary to tighten the entire structure around the perimeter with a rope or cable, and then “glue” the walls at the joints with mounting foam. After the foam dries at the joints, remove the rope and begin to install round towers. To do this, we put the towers on top of the corners of the castle, inserting the walls into the longitudinal cuts made in the towers. If the cut is small, we increase it to the desired size so that the turrets fit snugly against the walls from the outside. The missing part of the towers on the inside of the castle can then be formed using polyurethane foam. We tightly press the edges of the cuts to the walls of the castle, if necessary, supporting each tower with stops, and fill the towers from the inside with mounting foam, making small protruding slides on top. In addition, it is possible to form the missing parts of the turrets from the inside of the building using mounting foam. To do this, we form a protrusion of the desired shape from foam at the junction of the walls, and after the foam hardens, cut off the excess with a knife and plaster. We limited ourselves to covering the internal joints of the walls with plaster.

After the foam dries, we carefully cut off the slides protruding above the towers with a knife so that a flat area is formed on top, which we also cover with plaster.

Then we remove all the remnants of the foam in the places where the towers adjoin the walls and paint over them with plaster. After that, the castle must be covered and allowed to dry for two or three days until the plaster is completely dry.

Now you can move on to the last step - highlighting.

The final stage. Building lighting

Undoubtedly, a castle built with your own hands will decorate your site at any time of the day. But it will look most impressive in the evening if you make a special highlight.

As a backlight, you can use solar-powered diffused light fixtures that need to be placed inside the castle. Then, through the through windows and open gates of the castle, located on the second wall, a faint light will stream at night, enlivening the castle and giving it mystery. And solar directional light fixtures built into the “stones” and installed outside will illuminate the walls from all sides.

But to illuminate the front wall, it is better to use a stationary directional light, into which a color-changing light bulb is screwed. And then the effect will be extraordinary.

And finally, a few more practical tips.