How to make a scooter with your own hands - drawings, tools and materials. How to make an electric scooter - step by step instructions with photos How to make a scooter from an old bike

There is enough on the Internet now. But their cost is often not affordable for everyone. As you know, the cheapest way to get any thing is to create it yourself, using only raw materials, handy tools and used parts of other devices.

Here is a small step-by-step instruction on how to assemble your own electric scooter with your own hands with minimal investment.

The scooter is rated for a top speed of about 30 km per hour, will have about 3 horsepower and will be able to travel about 18-20 km on a single charge.

Step 1: Parts and Tools

Below is a basic set of the most important used components (parts) and necessary tools. As much as possible, stock up on used parts from various electrical appliances that often gather dust in your attic or garage.

How to make a good one, and what you need for this:

Details:

Instruments:

Step 2: Selecting a scooter base

The manufacture of a new home-made electric scooter must begin with the base - the frame of a former conventional scooter. The base from any classic Razor scooter will do, especially the front and rear wheel suspension, which uses springs and dampers rather than rubber, while it has a more elegant look. Converting a regular scooter to an electric scooter is the easiest way, but there will be a problem with the place for hanging equipment.

The wheels are unlikely to be able to use the old ones. They are usually worn out and the bearings are loose or broken. So the base wheels will have to be bought new (preferably with replacement tires). When choosing a frame and wheels, keep in mind that the future structure should rise 10-15 cm from the ground with the wheels mounted.

Step 3: Rear Suspension

To accommodate good wheels, you will need to assemble a completely new aluminum rear suspension. A few cheap mountain bike shock absorbers with a spring force of about 250-300 kg / cm will come in handy here. Such parts are sold in large quantities in specialized markets / shops, as well as a lot of them on online auctions. The shock mounts are made from 1/4″, two 2″ and 1″ aluminum U-channels.

Step 4: Fork

As well as the rear suspension, the fork and front suspension will also receive a major upgrade due to the new wheels. Here you can also use the springs and shocks from a mountain bike fork to create a new pair of shocks with pivots at each end.

This design is much simpler and more reliable than a telescopic fork. The front wheel with this design can be easily centered in front of the axis of the steering column. It is very important to set the wheel slightly forward - this will greatly increase the steering performance. Don't be afraid to raise the front of the scooter a couple more inches if needed.

Step 5: Wheels

To fix the wheels to the rest of the scooter, you need to make your own axles from 1/2" threaded rods (studs) and appropriate nuts. The inner diameter of the wheel bearings will fit 5/8″, so to get a 1/2″ axle that will fit snugly on the bearings, you will need appropriate pads. Electric scooter manufacturers make their parts unique, unsuitable for other models. Therefore, the choice of wheels you will have quite a large.

The nuts are screwed together until their flanges are pressed against the outside of the wheel bearings. To fix the spacers in place, a second nut is additionally screwed on. Four more nuts are used to secure each wheel to the frame.

Step 6: Gearbox

Since the CIM motors we plan to use are relatively high speed, low torque motors, a gearbox is needed to reduce the output speed of the motors to an acceptable level. A self-made electric scooter, made by hand, will not be able to work without a gearbox: this is not a toy car, here you need to ensure a smooth start.

In principle, any two-speed gearbox will do. Again, we select used ones at the lowest price. Cut out the gearboxes to get rid of as much wasted space as possible and remove the housing completely to get a 3-motor gearbox with a single output shaft.

The reducer is installed on the scooter using the original bolt holes built into the gearbox and some aluminum angle parts bolted to the scooter frame. Finally, 21 toothed sprockets for #35 chain are attached to the output shaft.

Step 7: Chain Tensioner

The most difficult part of the future electric scooter in terms of installation and subsequent adjustment is the chain tensioner. Due to its location, when the scooter's suspension is compressed, the effective chain length between the sprocket on the gearbox and the sprocket on the rear wheel increases. It must maintain (compensate for) the additional chain tension. In addition to the chain tensioner, the scooter also needed an idle sprocket.

When driving on uneven ground, jumping or hitting the body lightly, the chain can fly off the rear sprocket. To prevent this from happening, you will have to carve a special limiter. Building an electric scooter with your own hands from a conventional screwdriver will not work: too little torque.

Step 8: Brake

Motors and drive chains are great, but being able to stop your scooter in time is even more important. Since disc brake rotors are just large spinning metal discs attached to a wheel, you can simply use the wheel's drive sprocket as a disc brake.

It will be necessary to build a caliper to capture the sprocket from an aluminum block. To do this, we use an aluminum U-channel, two brake pads, springs and a few bolts. You can take absolutely any pads - this is a racing car.

We fix the right brake shoe on a rod that passes through the caliper, springs and aluminum suspension frame. Since the spring expands in the middle, the brake is inactive and, if necessary, the brake cable pulls the two halves of the caliper towards each other so that they both move towards the sprocket and compress it from both sides, providing braking.

Step 9: Steering wheel

For more and more confident control, we need a wider handlebar, because the wheels we will have are quite wide. Almost any handlebar from both the Soviet model and modern mountain bikes will easily fit.

We fix it on the steering column, having previously adjusted the clamp with an aluminum bracket with a bolted tightening. If the steering wheel is quite thick, then you can easily place a throttle and a hall sensor in it.

Step 10: Frame (base)

How to make an electric scooter from the most ordinary scooter? The original frame from a standard Raiser scooter will be quite small. It can be used as the main platform for attaching an additional surface made of lightweight materials. This will provide more space for hanging components such as batteries. The new surface can be made of carbon fiber or high-strength plastic - this will significantly increase its wear resistance. We screw the new base on top of the old one with stainless steel screws with a countersunk head.

Step 11: Mounting and Connecting the Electronics

Mount the motor controller on the front side of the gearbox as close as possible to the aluminum corner of the frame to leave as much room as possible for the batteries. The main power switch is bolted directly to the deck of the scooter, while the fuse holder and the fuse itself are bolted to the bottom of the frame (you can use an aluminum angle or channel). It is better to use a 200A fuse as this is the peak motor current.

All electrical connections must be made using solid, conductive connectors. Do-it-yourself electric scooter diagrams and connection drawings can be easily found on the Internet for various types of engines, gearboxes and batteries of any capacity.

Step 12: Battery

For maximum lightness of the whole structure and energy storage, the best option would be to use 5 Ah lithium polymer batteries (for example, LiPo from HobbyKing).

With this volume, 8 batteries will be enough, we take one more as a spare. In large batches, defective items often come across. Of course, they can then be replaced in the store with a new battery, but it is better to take it with a margin right away. As a result, we get a battery with characteristics of about 60V and about 600W of output power.

Step 13: Battery Holder

DIY electric scooter assembly will not be completed without a battery attached to it. In this case, it is necessary to consider the possibility of a quick replacement of power supplies. To install the batteries on the scooter frame, we build a small aluminum or plastic box.

It is better of course to use polycarbonate and glue it with carbon fiber for greater strength. It is necessary to fix the box with countersunk bolts so that when moving, its head does not cling to the legs and does not protrude on the surface of the frame.

Step 14: Final Assembly

The final step is to assemble and solder the entire structure together. To do this, use a screwdriver with bits, open-end wrenches and a screwdriver. Tighten all bolted connections tightly, double-check them.

That's about it - the assembly of the electric scooter with your own hands is finished, you can go to the first field tests, and then modify or improve the resulting model.

Video

“In fact, life is simple, but we persistently complicate it.”
(Confucius)

Many probably still remember how in the 70s our fathers made scooters with wheels made of ball bearings. How this thundering miracle aroused extraordinary pride in us, and the neighbor boys - white envy. But, time goes by, everything changes ... The fashion for scooters has returned again, only our children are already riding them. And about four years ago, having estimated my capabilities, I decided to make a scooter from a small children's bicycle.

I’ll warn you right away that you will need here: a welding inverter with electrodes (preferably 2), a grinder and a meter of a rectangular profiled pipe. And since the scooter has already been made for a long time, I will only explain some of the nuances.

I got it like this:

It is quite torquey for overclocking and quite fast. And now in order. First, saw off the back and front of the bike. And in front we saw off the frame pipe parallel to the steering tube.

We measure the profiled pipe and make V-shaped cuts with a grinder at the bends. We bend and cook. We also thoroughly weld the attachment points to the rear and front nodes. We lengthen the steering column with an additional pipe, which we also weld to the native, bicycle one.

A bolt with a wedge assembly passes inside this pipe. The native bolt turned out, of course, to be short and I had to cut it in half and weld a piece of wire (6mm) into the middle. Cooked in a vise to make it even. Pay special attention to the distance from the site to the ground surface. It should be minimal, taking into account the bumps in the road. I had to redo it, I lifted the platform too high.

A board is screwed on top and the scooter is generally ready. The only thing missing is the brakes. They can be put from an old bicycle (regular rims). In general, you can leave the pedals, and lengthen the seat tube and get a hybrid, a kind of bicycle scooter.

If desired, an electric motor with a gearbox can be installed on the site, and a battery on the trunk. But that's a completely different story.

Homemade ski scooter

I probably won’t open America by saying that children know how to confuse their parents ... My daughter has a scooter with small wheels, which is no longer suitable, because of the same small wheels, photo from the Internet.

And a small bike, again with small wheels, which does not suit for a reason - the knees touch the steering wheel, a photo of a real bike.

So, the task was set from a bicycle to make a scooter already on large wheels. After scratching the top of my head, I scratched into the garage ... More on that later ... Since the scooter with small wheels is no longer available, and at the “technical council” with my daughter we decided to make a scooter on skis. What you need: free time (there is enough of it during the holidays!), scooter, pieces sheet metal and mini skis.

We disassemble the skis and drill through holes with a diameter of 4mm.

Then we select the necessary sheet metal, 2 mm thick, mark it.

Before, to weld the cut off parts, I decided to do so.

We try on skis ... Normally!

This is the main mechanic and the initiator of all this disgrace.

We paint, dry, collect this "sandwich" in a heap

It took two evenings for 3 hours to build this scooter - this is with an assistant. And in one I think faster. There are not many photos without a description (as I said above, about this later) of our parallel project “Scooter on Big Wheels” with my daughter. The scooter is built from the back.

Post by user MishGun086 from the DIY community on DRIVE2

Make a scooter with your own hands from scratch

I go to a pretty exciting engineering college (Harvey Mudd) where most people use some form of wheeled transportation, from longboards and unicycles to scooters and freelines.

Step 1: Design

Before I get into actual modeling, I first sketch out most of my projects, including this one. I use them to figure out the basic sizes I need. After getting an idea of ​​what I was going to do, I went around my campus with a laptop and a tape measure and took pictures of all the styles of scooters I liked. I ended up choosing the Razor A5-Lux for my scooter. I also decided early on that I wanted to make it out of aluminum, with a laser cut acrylic deck and maybe some LEDs for night cruising.
After 20 minutes of taking measurements on someone's A5-Lux, I had all the measurements I needed for the next sketch cycle. Then I went to Google SketchUp and made a full 3D model. Even though the fine detail construction details were not 100% accurate in the SketchUp model, I used this model to figure out what other stock of aluminum I needed and the specific cut length for some of the parts.

Later in the build (about 5 months later) I studied SolidWorks in an engineering class. By this time in the build, I had most of the parts done, so it was a lot easier to make an accurate model this time around. I used this model to figure out the exact length and location of the "foldable support bar", but I'll get into that later.
I used mostly 8-32 caps and 8-32 buttons caps, with a few 5-40 caps for small things.
After a lot of research online, I found that large wheelchair casters are cheap, durable, and fairly affordable.
Early on, I decided I wanted the deck to be covered with clear acrylic paint, so I also ordered a 1/4 piece of clear green from E-Street Plastics. I use a laser cutter to cut the deck.

Step 2: Deck Support

I started with the support of the deck and worked it out with subsequent parts. The deck stand is the part that supports the base of the scooter.
I used two lengths of 1" x 1/2" x 20 5/8" 6061 aluminum as "rails" and joined them with two 2" pieces of the same material to create the support for the deck. I used a bandsaw to cut them roughly to length and then cut the ends to length on a ~1" end mill cutter (I did this for both the rails and the connecting sections). Each connection has two black oxide 1” 8-32 hex socket head screws with a counter hole to keep the heads flush.
For now, I just drilled one 17/64" hole (a little over 1/4") in the front of the rails to attach the steering column posts. I'll deal with the rear wheel mount later.

Step 3: Rack and Column Sleeves

I then made uprights that extend from the deck support axle to the steering column. I made this piece from slightly different stock, I used 1 1/4" x 1/2" instead of 1".
Anyway, I cut two pieces down to about 16 inches and ran into one side of each. The other side had to be milled at a weird angle, so I left one side rough for now.
I also cut out two 1" connector sections and looked at both sides for length.
Now comes the tricky part: handling that weird angle. It would have been easy if the store manager had let me swap the mill vise for a turntable, but he didn't, so I had to get creative. I ended up using conventional T-slot fasteners to attach the parts to the mill frame, and then put together a very sketchy system to make sure the parts were aligned at a 32.3 degree angle to the mill's z-axis. I had an angle gauge, but due to some physical limitations, I had to use it in tandem with two squares to make sure everything lined up. And I had to do it twice, once for each piece.
Fortunately, both parts came out well!
I then attached the two pieces along with the connector pieces. For these connections I used 1" stainless 8-32 pan head screws, and drilled the heads with a .33" end mill. To finish off the piece, I drilled a matching 17/64" hole at the end to connect it to the deck support.
The next part was even more difficult. I had to mill the appropriate 1/8″ deep cuts in the steering column bushing (the thing that the steering column rotates through). Again, I had to press the part directly against the mill bed, which turned out to be heavier than before because it was a pipe. It also made it difficult to align the corner properly because I didn't have a clear edge to look down on since it was rounded. After much deliberation, I made cuts, and the joint turned out to be normal. You can see how the pieces fit together in the pictures above.

Step 4: Steering column

It was definitely the coolest part of the scooter. The steering column needs to turn smoothly even under high pressure, and aluminum-on-aluminum friction is no good, so I had to figure out how to isolate all the aluminum in the rotating joint.
I used lubricated brass bearings that are located around the steering column and slide inside the steering column bushing to separate the column from the bushing, and a brass washer between the top of the bushing and the shaft bushing insulates the top of the joint. The lower pivot has to support a lot of weight, so I went broke and bought a thrust bearing to lubricate the steering gear.
I made the steering column itself from two telescopic tubes. The lower, larger diameter is about 1 1/4" outside diameter and the inside diameter is 1". I installed a threaded plate on the inside of the inner tube and drilled a matching hole in the outer tube. These holes are at the right height and a threaded handle holds them together. In the future, I may cut a slot in the outer tube so that you can easily adjust the height, but for now I leave it at the set height.
I used a 1" end mill to make a rounded cut at the top of the inner tube so another 1" tube could fit through the top to make the handle bars. I made a cork out of a 3/4" solid rod and inserted it into the top of the inner tube so the handlebar would cut into that cork.

Step 5: Front Wheel Bracket

I made the front wheel bracket out of 2" x 1/4" aluminium, with two 2" x 1/2" connectors. I spaced the connectors 1" apart and connected them to the sides with the same 8-32 screws. After I drilled and tapped all of the holes, I used a CNC router to cut a 1.25" hole at the top of the connector and a 1.25" recess at the bottom. Thus, the steering column can slide through the top and go deep into the bottom. This allows for easy welding alignment and provides additional rigidity. Unfortunately, my college doesn't have good welding machines and we can't weld aluminum at all. So, I had to take a few pieces home over spring break so I could weld them. I will cover more about welding in step 9.
I drilled a 0.316 hole to fit the 5/16" axle and then I made indentations on the axle to fit the circlips that hold the axle in place.

Step 6: Rear Wheel Bracket

This could be the simplest piece. I used a 1/4" x 1 1/4" stem connected with a small piece of 1/2" x 1 1/4", and attached them with four 8-32 pan head screws. I left the other ends uneven because I wasn't sure exactly where to place the bracket at this stage of assembly.

Step 7: Folding Mechanism

For the folding mechanism, I wanted a bar attached between the uprights and the deck support, creating a triangle around the main hinge and preventing it from folding. I also wanted to be able to pull the bottom pin, fold the scooter, and then attach the same bar back to the rear wheel so it folds up. Doing one of them would be easy, but doing both would be difficult because I had to satisfy the angle and length of both triangles. This problem was complicated enough that I knew I would screw up if I tried to just solve it, so I decided to redo the entire scooter in Solid Works so that I could get the dimensions right for this part.
Since most of the scooter was already built, it only took a few hours to build in Solid Works, because I already had all the dimensions and details determined.
After I assembled the scooter model, it took about an hour to adjust the drop bar length and hole placement before the scooter locked in the unfolded position at a right angle and locked in the stowed position so that the steering column was parallel with the deck. I took the measurements from the model and used them to make the real part.

Step 8: Welding

When designing, I tried to limit welding as much as possible, but there were a few more connections that simply could not be made with screws. This is the connection between the uprights and steering hub, steering column and front wheel bracket, and the ends on the drop bar.
I don't have a TIG welder at home either, but I've read online that you can actually weld aluminum with a MIG setup if you use a special aluminum filler wire instead of regular steel rebar and use 100% argon as the shield gas. We also had to replace the sleeve, gun and tip because I don't think you can use any of the parts that touched the steel welding wire. On a chemical level, something is going on that messes up aluminum welding if your material or filler wire is contaminated with steel. Because of this, you also have to brush the material with a ton of stainless steel brush to clean it before welding (stainless steel is fine for some reason).
Most of the joints I needed to weld were pretty thick so I didn't have to worry about burning through or ruining anything bad (I actually had to add heat with a butane torch just to get it hot enough to welding) but the steerer tube is very thin and I needed to weld it to the 1/2" plate so I decided to just use a set screw instead of welding. If this connection fails later, I will go through the welding problem.

Step 9: Progress Photos

Here are just some progress photos.

Step 10: Acrylic Deck

I made the deck out of 1/4" clear green acrylic.
I used a Solid Works model to set up the deck dimensions and I ended up exporting the model to a .dxf file so I could cut it directly with a laser cutter.
Not the most fun part of this was drilling and tapping 20 holes for all 8-32 pan head screws that hold the deck to the rails.
I usually use a tap in a milling chuck and tap each hole right after it is drilled so that the mill zeros right over the hole. This provides the best tap possible, but it takes forever because you have to take out the drill chuck and change the collets and everything and then change the Z axis height which is very tedious if you have to do it 20 times in quick succession, so, in this case, I decided against it and just tapped it by hand. My wrist was very sore after the last tap, although I'm glad I only used 8-32 screws instead of something larger or my arm might have fallen off.
I cleaned out all the coolant and attached the deck! It looks amazing!

Step 11: Finishing touches and plans for the future

Surface Finish:
I used 240 and 320 grit sandpaper on the aluminum in some places where the scratches were visible. I then used a Scotch-Bright overlay and finished the rest of the aluminum with this, providing a nice smooth matte finish.
Final build:
I went around each connection and cleaned the remaining coolant from the screw threads and threaded holes. Then I put Thread Lock on all screws before reassembly.

Results.
As always, there is work to be done, although I am very pleased with the current state of the scooter. Here are some things I'd like to work on so far, and I'll be adding updates as those parts are completed.
Add a battery pack and super-bright white LEDs underneath the acrylic deck.
Implement a rear PIN-lock mechanism so that I can lock the scooter in the stowed position.
Make some kind of brake mechanism.
Make a slot connecting the two holes on the outer steering column so that the knobs are adjustable.
Buy the best wheel bearings to make your ride easier.
Remove more material from the inside of the steering column bushing to reduce steering friction.

27.09.2018

When choosing a personal electric vehicle, it is not necessary to limit yourself to typical factory models. You can assemble an electric scooter yourself, with your own hands, as much as possible corresponding to the existing requests and needs. To do this, you need a regular scooter (base), a motor-wheel, a battery and a controller. You will also need controls for the alteration - brake levers, a throttle lever and a power switch. Bases of scooters, depending on the diameter of the wheels, are divided into the following types:

1. micro - up to 8";
2. mini - 8-10";
3. midi - 12-16";
4. maxi – from 20”.

In addition to the diameter of the wheels, their width may also vary. The Scruzer, Evo and similar models are also considered scooters, but outwardly and in terms of motor power they are more like electric scooters. The type of base affects the driving characteristics of the electric scooter.

Decide on wheel size

Before you make an electric scooter yourself, you need to decide on the features of its design. Of great importance are the size and type of wheels (they can be cast or inflatable), the presence of suspension, the size of the dropouts for mounting the motor wheel and the location of the battery. The optimal wheel diameter depends on the quality of the roads you are going to drive on. The “micro” option is only suitable for rolling on tiles and good asphalt. "Mini" - allows you to overcome small obstacles on the way. "Midi" allows you to confidently ride at a speed of 40 km / h and above, without fear of small potholes. "Maxi" is great for those who like to drive on rough terrain and problematic roads. The suspension partly smooths out the bumps. But there is a rule - the wheel is able to overcome an obstacle that does not exceed 1/2 of its diameter.

Choosing a place to install the battery

Li-ion battery can be placed in various parts of the scooter:

There are many nuances in the question of how to make an electric scooter for adults with your own hands. So, the size of the motor-wheel is selected depending on the width of the dropouts. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of the battery, because the weight, ease of control and range of the electric scooter on a single charge depend on it. Modern electric scooters are equipped with lithium batteries - assemblies of lithium-ion cells, LiPo or LiFePO4 batteries. Batteries made from Li-ion cells are lighter and cheaper, while LiFePO4 batteries last longer and are not afraid of frost.

How far can a person travel by pushing off the ground once? If this is one step, then on average it is less than meters. If you run up and push off harder, you can make a jump of four or five meters. Therefore, imagine our surprise when a modest, already middle-aged man appeared in the editorial office and declared that he could move 50 meters from one push of his foot, and even with a load of 30 kg. In the hands of the visitor was some kind of strange cart. We, understandably, doubted.

When in doubt, they demanded proof.

Well, please, - the owner of a strange cart told us. - Let's go outside. Here, on the pavement, we are convinced that we are not being deceived.

Upon closer inspection, the "trolley" turned out to be a converted children's scooter. Our guest, engineer Sergei Stanislavovich Lundovsky, managed to turn it into an unusual vehicle for adults.

How did you manage to “grow up” the scooter how? What is the essence of his alteration? First of all, in the maximum allowable lowering of the platform on which the “driver” stands. The ground clearance of the converted scooter when loaded is only 30 mm. But this, as practice has shown, is quite enough for driving not only on smooth asphalt, but also on country paths. Hitting the bottom of the bumps in the road, the scooter simply slips forward. And if there is a larger obstacle, the driver can help his car by jerking the steering wheel up and thus raising the front wheel.

The lowering of the platform lowered the center of gravity of the machine, which had a positive effect on its stability and made it easy to reach the ground with the "jogging" leg, without bending the supporting leg at the knee. And thanks to this, the driver gets tired much less than when using a scooter with a standard (high) platform.

The car is made on the basis of the Orlik children's sports roller (cost 14 rubles). As shown in the picture, the fork legs leading to the rear wheel and the front of the roller have been cut off. From a steel corner 20X20X5 mm, a new platform was made according to the size of the boot; in the drawing, its length is 320 mm, which is the most advantageous. The front part of the factory sportroller is connected to the platform with a clamp welded to the pipe and four M8 bolts. A plate with a thickness of about 20 mm is placed under the legs of the clamp, with the help of which the slope of the platform, which is most convenient for the driver, can be found.

The length of the steering tube should be increased in such a way that the driver can comfortably control the machine without bending.

The rear wheel fork is made from the same corner as the platform itself.

As a trunk, which is best placed above the front wheel, a stamped bicycle luggage frame is used. It is attached to the head of the steering column and to the front axle. It is impossible to put the trunk at the back, as the load makes it difficult to move the pushing leg.

Start learning to ride a roller skate on a flat, non-sloping asphalt site. The main attention is paid to working out a long and strong, but not sharp push with the foot, as well as mastering the movement with inertia. In this case, the steering wheel must be completely motionless, otherwise (due to increased resistance) the speed drops rapidly.

In training, it is quickly determined which leg is the most efficient as a support leg and which one as a push leg.

S. LUNDOVSKII, engineer

Appearing in the 1920s of the last century, scooters have become not only favorite children's toys, but also a common mode of transport. Today you can make a scooter with your own hands.

General scheme of a homemade scooter

A homemade scooter is easy to manufacture, and its cost is minimal.

All scooters have 2 main parts - a footboard and a steering column. Manufacturing begins with the steps. A piece of board 80-90 cm long is cut off. A groove for the rear wheel is cut in the back. The depth of the cutout must be 2 cm greater than the sum of the wheel radius and the axle thickness. If ball bearings are used, then the axis for them is a wooden rod.

The axis, which should be on the plane of the board facing the ground, is attached with screws. The wheel from a children's bicycle is attached to a wooden boss with nuts. The boss is attached with screws from below to the footboard. On the front of the footrest, 45° corners are cut. A bar is attached from above, the width of which is equal to the width of the footboard. The front corners of the bar are also cut at 45 °.

Now, to get a wooden scooter, an iron wire is removed from the window latch and the bracket is bent in the shape of the letter P. It should rotate freely in the latch. They cut the threads for the nuts at the ends of the bracket, insert it into the notch of the latch and fix it vertically on the wooden block of the footboard with screws.

The steering column is made in the same way. The difference is that at the end opposite the wheel, a transverse wooden plank is nailed, which serves as a steering wheel.

2 holes are drilled in the board of the steering column at the junction with the footrest for attaching the bracket of the turning unit. A nut is screwed onto the ends and washers are threaded. The rods are inserted into the holes in the steering column. With the help of nuts and locknuts, the structure is fixed.

Drawings made in advance will facilitate manufacturing.

Required tools and drawings

To make a wooden scooter, you will need the following tools:

• workbench or goats for sawing;
• fixed square for carpentry;
• electric drill;
• 2 adjustable wrenches;
• tape measure;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• pencil;
• sharp saw;
• hammer.

To make a vehicle out of wood, you will need:

• treated pine wood for longitudinal bars;
• pens;
• handle stands;
• connecting neck;
• plywood for deck-foot;
• bolts.

First of all, you should make a drawing. In accordance with the dimensions, pieces of wood are sawn off and the centers of the drilled holes are carefully marked, which should be 2 different diameters:

• for axial bolts and those to which the longitudinal bars are attached to the connecting neck - 1.3 cm;
• all others - 0.6 cm.

Now you should lay out the parts according to the drawing on the floor. To assemble the handle of the scooter, you need to attach 2 corner brackets with bolts to the top of the steering rack. Then the handle is bolted into place.

The front wheels are assembled using a 1.3 cm thick bolt as an axle. A washer is placed on each side of the wheels. Now you need to check if the assembled axle is overtightened. After that, 2 nuts are tightened opposite each other, which will ensure that there is no vibration during constant movement. 2 bolts with rings are placed in the corresponding holes in the steering column.

Platform frames attach 2 longitudinal bars to the connecting neck. The remaining 2 bolts with rings are placed in the corresponding holes in the connecting neck. The deck is attached to the 2 longitudinal bars with carriage bolts.

The next step is to attach the steering and install the connecting neck, to which an angle bracket is attached with screws to strengthen the structure.

The rear wheels are assembled in the same way as the front.

It remains to attach the brake, and the homemade vehicle is ready. Having slightly improved the design, you can get a folding scooter.

How to make a scooter out of plywood?

You can make a scooter out of plywood. For this you will need the following materials:

• plywood 10 mm thick;
• furniture board 28 mm thick;
• front fork from a bicycle (wheel 20 inches);
• rear wheel (12 inches).

Self-tapping screws and furniture corners can be used as fasteners. In addition, all parts should be glued with PVA glue. Clearance needs to be designed more. At the end, the product must be varnished, then the wooden scooter will last a long time.

Instructions on how to make a scooter from a children's bike

Making a scooter from a children's bike is quick and easy. For this you will need the following materials:

• 2 forks from a children's bike;
• 2 wheels;
• a water pipe 1.5 m long, with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm, a diameter of 35 mm;
• pipe 1.5 m long, 2.5 mm thick, 20 mm in diameter;
• a piece of plywood;
• spanners;
• screws;
• welding machine;
• drill;
• Bulgarian;
• dye.

In order to assemble a children's scooter, you will need basic skills in working with the tool.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. We disassemble the bike. We cut off the frame from the front fork with a grinder. With the rear fork, you also have to work with a grinder.
2. Frame fabrication and construction welding. To create a frame, take a pipe and bend it. One end of the pipe is welded to the front fork, and a metal plate is welded to the other. Now the rear fork is welded to the plate, which makes the design more reliable. A bicycle brake is attached to the handlebar.
3. We attach a board or plywood. In order to make it comfortable to stand while riding a scooter, a board should be screwed to its frame. To do this, first weld 2 plates and drill holes in them. The board is attached with screws with nuts or self-tapping screws; a cut is made in it so that the frame enters it.
4. Painting. You can use spray paint. For example, paint the front wheel matte black, and the rear wheel and the board - pink fluorescent paint if the vehicle is intended for a girl.

A wooden scooter or a self-made scooter made from bicycles is inexpensive and will last a long time.