How to make slopes from drywall with your own hands. Do-it-yourself drywall slopes

For slopes of plastic windows, sandwich panels are usually used, for entrance and interior doors there is a wider choice of materials. Drywall slopes are applicable for both windows and doors. Unlike plastic and MDF, drywall is more maintainable and cheaper. During the overhaul process, trimmings of this material remain after facing other design elements - they can be used for slopes. Moreover, it is not at all necessary that all slopes must be assembled from a single piece. As a result, we get the finishing of windows and doors of a sufficiently high quality.

Mounting

Consider profileless installation. Work on windows should be carried out after installing the window sill. Of course, this can be done without a window sill, but then the latter will be more difficult to install.

In the foam seam of the window | door, a recess is cut 1-1.5 cm into the thickness of the drywall. The sheet should fit tightly into this groove. Closer to the inner edge of the wall, beacon screws are screwed in with a distance of 30-50 cm from each other, the more often the better. The slope will rest on the screws, they should be set so that the sheet is not perpendicular to the window, but is turned to "dawn". The size of the turn is arbitrary, as you like, usually 5-7 mm for thin panel walls (brickwork in a monolith) and 1.5-2 cm for thick brick walls.

Unfortunately, a rare door or window is perfectly level in all planes. Therefore, it is very likely that by making, for example, a turn of 5 mm on a slope from below, a turn of 1 cm from above is automatically obtained. The problem is solved by finding the optimal position, for example, from below 0-1 mm, and from above 5 mm of turn. This also applies to the upper, horizontal slope.

Beacon screws should be taken so long that they are securely fixed in the dowel, which is inserted into the pre-drilled hole. If the wall material is aerated concrete or foam blocks, dowels suitable for this purpose should be selected.

The sheets should be cut a little wider than the thickness of the walls; after installation, the drywall is cut flush with the wall. On the windows you need to use moisture-resistant drywall, on the doors - depending on the operating conditions in a particular case. If the door separates a warm room from a cold one or a street, then moisture-resistant GKL or GVL should be used.

After the screws are precisely aligned, the gypsum sheets are cut to the desired size, the slopes can be mounted. Foam is carefully applied to the end of the wall (pre-primed the wall). You need to try not to overdo it with foam, so that when expanding from the inside to the slope there is minimal pressure. A strip of drywall is inserted into the foam seam of the window and rests on the exposed self-tapping screws. At the time of the foam hardening, the slope must be fixed, this can be done with the help of dowels and self-tapping screws with a wide cap. Approximately in the area of \u200b\u200bthe beacon self-tapping screw, a hole is carefully drilled right through the gypsum in the end of the wall and fastened with a cork with a self-tapping screw. Do not be zealous with temporary fastenings, 3-4 per slope. The fixed slope should be checked with a rule or level for a plane. If in some places the foam has squeezed out the plane, a temporary fastening is added.

On the slopes of interior doors, when using drywall, instead of foam, you can apply pads in places of beacon screws.

When erecting a slope of several pieces of drywall, you should try to join the seams with factory thinned edges. Then the seam can be puttied with sickle. In extreme cases, the thinned edges on the seam can be made independently.

When the doorway is much higher than the new door, then the most relevant will be the build-up of drywall from above along the profiles.

After the foam has hardened, temporary fixing screws are removed, the drywall protruding from the wall plane is cut flush.

Puttying

Here you can go in two ways: budget and fast or more complicated, better. The budget option is to cover the foam joint with putty (you must first remove the foam to a depth of 1-2 cm), cover the internal corners and self-tapping screws. All surfaces are ripped off once. For all operations suitable "fugen". If the slope is assembled from several pieces, the seams are puttied with sickle. This option is issued after painting the slopes and wallpapering outer patch corner.

A better option implies the same thing, with cutting and puttying reinforcing outer corner. After removing and grinding the surfaces, it is also recommended to stick a reinforcing bandage on the inner corners and glue it on all planes fiberglass. After drying, fiberglass is puttied several times with the same.

After the final grinding, the slopes must be primed, smudges of the primer must not be left, by any means drying of the drops must be avoided. It is best to apply the primer with a roller.

The final operation before painting is to go through all the joints of gypsum and windows / doors with acrylic sealant.

Painting

Painting slopes is a rather problematic action, especially when the surfaces are not very well puttied. Therefore, I strongly recommend that you pay due attention to the putty.

Slopes are painted with water-based paint. More suitable for painting matte paint. For high-quality painting with glossy paint, it is necessary to putty surfaces as high as possible and "eat the dog" on painting slopes.

No types of brushes are appropriate here, because all the stripes will be visible. Roller only! The roller is suitable for a width of 15-20 cm from foam rubber or fleecy from polyamide, or another similar one. I prefer foam rubber, they are easy to paint over the inner corners by simply pressing the roller into the corner. Any smudges of paint should be avoided, any drops should be rolled out immediately. Usually, 3-5 coats of paint may be required for an excellent result.

Wallpaper on slopes instead of paint

Instead of painting, door slopes can be pasted over with wallpaper. Just as with painting, the slopes are puttied.

In general, finishing is not limited to paint and wallpaper, it all depends on the specific case and location. Tiles, decorative plaster on slopes are also acceptable materials in some cases.

September 19, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Tell me, did you know that the work on finishing the slopes costs 2-3 times more than the materials that are needed for this? When I talk about this fact, many developers are very surprised and think that since these works are so expensive, it means that their implementation requires high qualifications and experience. In fact, almost anyone can make plasterboard slopes on windows, I will tell you two options for the technology, and you need to choose the most suitable one and repeat all the steps described in the corresponding section.

Description of the workflow

There are two main options for the work, I will consider each of them separately so that you can understand as best as possible and choose the solution that best suits your windows. Naturally, you need to start slopes after installing windows and solidifying the mounting foam, I personally do such work myself, but if you have little experience, you can attract an assistant to hold certain elements during the work.

Slope preparation

Regardless of what method you will use to trim the window space, you need to take care of preparing the opening in advance. This will simplify the workflow and improve the final result due to convenient installation.

At this stage, you need to do the following:

First of all, it is necessary to clean the slope from dirt, the remnants of the old finish, which does not hold well.. If an old insulation sticks out around the perimeter, most often it is tow or glass wool, then it also needs to be removed, it is better to subsequently lay more modern and efficient materials in order to achieve maximum efficiency. Protruding nails, self-tapping screws, etc. you need to either take it out or hammer it all the way so that they do not interfere with us;
Often old plaster is applied on the slopes, if it has cracks that occurred during the dismantling of windows, then it is better to knock it all down. It still won’t hold normally, and if you don’t remove it now, trouble may occur later and your slopes will deform or disappear altogether;

Carefully inspect the surface, if there is moldy blackening on it, then you must definitely get rid of them. Areas with affected plaster must be knocked down, and all accessible surfaces are treated with an antiseptic composition. Plus, you need to make sure that the window is standing correctly and the mounting foam is covered with a layer of plaster from the outside, it is important that subsequently moisture does not penetrate through small pores and does not accumulate on the slope from the inside;

Excess window foam often sticks out along the perimeter of the window frame, which is formed when it solidifies. There is nothing wrong with that, they can be quickly cut with a construction knife. Cut so that you get a flat plane with the frame, you need to do it carefully and slowly;

Sometimes it turns out that after replacing the windows and removing the remnants of the old insulation, a gap forms around the perimeter, which passes between the layers of the finish or under the plasterboard structure. I don’t recommend leaving it, the easiest way is to take rolled mineral wool, cut it into pieces of the required size and push it into the void with a layer of about 10 cm, so you make the structure much warmer and get rid of the situation when the wind blows from the opening.

If your surface is more or less even and only in a couple of places there is significant damage or irregularities due to flying off plaster, then I advise you to repair these places with any mortar, even cement, even gypsum. This will greatly simplify your work in the future.

Option number 1 - gluing slopes

This solution is distinguished by its simplicity, because no power tool is needed to perform the work, which is important for those who do the work on their own. The material is easy to work with, looking at what plasterboard figures are being built by specialists, it is easy to understand that straight structures, whether it be a slope, a false wall or a full-fledged partition, can be built without the appropriate experience.

You should not be afraid that it is almost impossible to spoil or damage something, but even if you have to throw away a piece of drywall, then this is a minimal cost.

Let's figure out what is needed in order to install drywall window slopes:

Moisture resistant drywall	We need a moisture-resistant option, since changes in humidity are not uncommon in the openings and ordinary sheets can begin to swell after a while. Purchase a wall version with a thickness of 12.5 mm, thin sheets are suitable for the ceiling, and rigidity is needed on the slopes, this will greatly simplify the workflow and allow you to make the structure even
Gypsum adhesive composition	With it, we will glue our drywall to the slopes. The composition is sold dry in bags, and you just need to purchase one or more packages, depending on the amount of work. Glue is prepared immediately before use and is applied very quickly, because gypsum provides a very fast solidification
Guide profile	The starting bar used when installing PVC panels is used. You can insert a sheet into it, or you can fix the element so that it is located below and the drywall simply rests on it and due to this it is located along the line we need
Primer	Before work, it is necessary to treat the surface with primer, most often reinforcing compounds are used that make the base more durable and reduce its absorption, thereby improving adhesive adhesion
insulation	If your slopes require insulation, then do not forget to purchase a heater for these purposes, the rolled version is best suited, which can be cut into pieces of the required size and tightly fill all voids with it
putty	Just fixing the drywall is still not enough - you need to ennoble the slope and make it perfectly even. To do this, we will use putty, there can be any option, the main thing is that the composition is white and suitable for finishing
perforated corner	If you have ever done putty work, you know how difficult it is to get perfectly even corners. But with the use of corners, this problem is solved easily and quickly, it turns out a perfectly even edge, which you just need to putty

Now let's deal with the workflow, I will note right away that the basic standards for the installation of plasterboard slopes of PVC windows are set out in GOST 30971-2012 "Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings." You don’t need to study anything, you should know that according to the norms, moisture-resistant drywall is provided for and that insulation is done only if necessary.

The technology consists of the following steps:

First you need to inspect the slope and decide how the drywall will be installed: either it will go beyond the end of the frame and rest against it (then the starting bar is not needed), or it will go onto the frame, in which case we will fix the bar. It all depends on your opening, and you should act as the situation allows;

You must take measurements to find out if the distance from the frame to the edge of the slope is the same on both sides, if there are any curvatures in the plane of the wall around the perimeter, and if the distance to the frame is the same. Sometimes, due to the curvature of the walls or the negligence of the installers, the frames are offset relative to the wall, all these nuances must be taken into account in order to place the drywall at the right angle when constructing the slope;
If your drywall will not start behind the frame, then our starting bar is attached around the perimeter of the PVC window, it will allow you to set a guide for the end of the slope and ensure its ideal position without constant monitoring. As I wrote above, if you do not want the element to be visible after installation, you can attach it so that the sheet rests against it from the outside along the desired line;

Then measurements are taken, and an element is cut out for the upper part of the slope. Cutting is done with a construction knife - markings are applied to the surface, after which the top layer of the material is cut along the line, and it is gently broken, after which the paper is cut off from the reverse side. Be sure to try on the resulting element and make sure that it becomes perfect, so that later it doesn’t turn out that you applied glue and the slope does not fit;

If you do not want to fasten the profile, and the slope will be placed around the perimeter of the window, then you can attach guides from a cut suspension to its inner end, which will be inserted under the frame. To make it clearer, below is a photo.

The upper part is most often not insulated, but if there is a gap above the opening, fill it with mineral wool. After that, glue is smeared on the sheet with dots (the photo above shows how), there should be two rows of such dots on both sides. After applying the composition, the element is gently pressed, its position is controlled by the level, a couple of supports are placed under the slope, usually they are not needed, but it is better to play it safe, the structure is left like this until the glue dries;

When the top is securely fixed, you can measure the side elements and cut them to size. After that, the adhesive composition is prepared, and the sides are glued either in the same way as the top, or using a heater. The second option differs from the first and is done as follows: from the side of the window, the space is filled with mineral wool, the sheet is lubricated with adhesive only from the outside;

When the glue hardens on the side elements, you can start puttying work, there is nothing complicated in them, the main thing is to put a perforated corner on the outer corners. To keep it, the composition is pre-applied to the corner, after which the corner is pressed into it and thus securely fixed. Further, the entire surface is covered with a thin layer of the composition. If it was not possible to level the plane in one layer, then after drying a second one is applied;

When the putty dries, it must be rubbed with a special bar with sandpaper or mesh, there is enough light in the window, so it will not be difficult to bring out a flat plane. Next, you need to apply a primer to the surface and, after it dries, paint it; it is better to use moisture-resistant paint for work so that you can wipe the surface with a damp cloth if necessary.

Option number 2 - fastening slopes to the frame

Let's figure out how to make slopes on windows from drywall if the opening is badly damaged or curved. In this case, the best solution would be the construction of a drywall profile, so we can create the desired plane even where it does not exist.

Let's deal with the materials necessary for work:

Frame profile	If you have wide slopes, then you can use both the main and wall profiles, and if they are narrow, then you can limit yourself to only one guide option. It is important to create a solid foundation, and you must decide if a rack profile is needed or not.
Drywall moisture resistant	This material is purchased in the right amount, most often one sheet is enough, but if there are several windows, then more may be required.
insulation	I strongly recommend filling all the space under the frame with mineral wool. If the voids are small, then you can use mounting foam, applying it immediately before attaching the sheets, at the same time it will act as an adhesive
fasteners	For work, you will need quick-mount dowels for fastening to concrete or brick, straight hangers for setting the level of the structure, self-tapping screws for fastening frame elements together and for fixing sheets
Materials for puttying and painting	Here he uses a standard set: putty composition in dry or finished form, corners and a primer. The paint can be any suitable type, but it is better to choose moisture resistant options.

From the tool we need the following:

To cut the profile into pieces of the desired size, metal scissors cannot be dispensed with;
To make holes for quick mounting dowels, a puncher with a drill of the appropriate diameter and length should be at hand;
All elements are twisted using a screwdriver; cruciform nozzles PH2 are used for work;
For cutting drywall sheets, a construction knife is used. And for taking measurements it is better to use a tape measure, pencil and square.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

First you need to take measurements to determine how the window block is located in the opening, and whether there are any displacements relative to the plane of the wall and the outer part of the slope. You have to figure out how the structure will need to be built so that the slope is even, and not crooked;
Then you need to create the outlines of the future structure from the side of the window frame, for this, measurements are made, the required pieces of the profile are cut and fixed either to the plastic frame, which is the easiest, or to the wall surface through suspensions, in order to clearly align the plane;

Next, you need to fix the frame around the outer perimeter of the window, here you should clearly define the plane of the wall and go exactly to it. You also need to put jumpers at the corners of the opening so that each plane is closed with a profile around the perimeter. If the width of the slope is large, then to strengthen the structure, several jumpers must be installed, their number depends on the specific situation and is selected individually, the main thing is that the base is strong;

Next, you need to insulate the interior space, for this it is easiest to fill the cavity with mineral wool. You can, of course, also lay foam, but in this case you will have to fill all the joints and junctions with mounting foam, and this is a more complex and lengthy process;

Drywall fastening starts from the top of the opening, for this, measurements are made, a piece of the desired configuration is cut out and fixed on the frame using self-tapping screws with a fine pitch of 3.5x25. After that, the side elements are measured and cut to the required dimensions and configuration, they are fastened in the same way so that the drywall does not crack, you need to indent when fastening at least 20 mm from the edge;

After installation, you need to prepare a putty mortar and seal the surface. In order for the outer corners to be perfectly even, you will need to use plaster corners, and in order to prevent cracks from forming on the joints of the sheets, it is better to glue them with fiberglass or fiberglass. The surface is covered with a uniform layer of the composition and left to dry completely;

When the putty has dried, you can start rubbing it with sandpaper, if after grinding small flaws are found, it is worth puttingty all the problem areas. Next, you need to apply a primer to the base, it will strengthen the surface and protect it from moisture. Lastly, the slope is painted in any color you choose, it is better to apply the composition in two layers in order to achieve the best reliability and maximum color brightness.

I hope you have figured out the question of whether drywall is needed for window slopes, do not believe pseudo-specialists who claim that gypsum cannot withstand moisture and the best solution is plastic. If everything is done correctly, then the slope will serve you for decades.

Conclusion

Making slopes on your own is not as difficult as you think, in addition, if you do the work yourself, you will save significant money and be calm about the quality of work. The video in this article will show the important points of the workflow visually and help you understand some points even better, so be sure to watch it. If you have any questions - write them in the comments under this review.

There are two technologies for decorating door slopes: plastering and decorating with solid finishing materials such as laminated MDF, plastic, drywall, etc. - the most reliable way from the point of view of security: there are no gaps and gaps left, it will be very difficult to knock out the doors. Therefore, slopes are usually plastered near the entrance doors. But, as always, there are drawbacks: this work takes quite a lot of time, and it is difficult to achieve good results without skills. It's easier to wrap something. You do not need to be a visionary to suggest that most often they make slopes from drywall with their own hands. It is clear why: the material is inexpensive, the technologies are known, it is easy to work with it, the result is good.

The doors look like this after installation - you need to make slopes

For the design of slopes indoors, ordinary drywall is used. If there is a need to make a slope outside or in a damp room, you need to take a moisture resistant one. The thickness of the sheets is normal, such as is used for walls - 12.5 mm.

You will also need a good paper cutter for work, you may need perforated paint corners and polyurethane foam. Putty will definitely be needed: to close up the cracks and bring everything back to normal.

Finishing preparation

Before starting work on finishing the door slopes, all communications are laid that must pass through the doors. For example, if the doorway of the front door is being designed, it can be a bell wire, lighting above the door, etc. If slopes of interior doors are made, it can be a telephone cable or a twisted pair cable for connecting the Internet.

Having passed the necessary communications into the gap between the door frame, fixing them, the gaps are sealed with mounting foam. Foams cause no more than 1/3 of the volume of cracks: it expands greatly and can even bend a wooden door frame. Therefore, if the box is wooden, for a while while the reaction takes place, it is recommended to install spacers that guarantee an unchanged geometry.

The time required for the foam to harden depends on the temperature and humidity of the air, but on average it is 8-12 hours (for some types it may take a day). Excess hardened foam is cut off with a knife, plaster that does not hold well is removed, dust and dirt are swept away. You can start work on finishing the doorways.

How to make slopes from drywall

When installing drywall slopes, it is important to correctly and accurately measure the necessary elements. To do this, measure the distance from the door jamb to the corner in several places, measure the height of the required parts. Measurements are taken for each side separately: walls rarely have perfect geometry.

All dimensions are applied to a sheet of drywall, connected by lines. Once again, everything is measured and, if everything is correct, cut out.

This is what a “pattern” for a drywall slope looks like

We cut drywall

Cutting drywall is easy: you need a good paper knife, a long ruler (a meter or so) and a block of wood. A ruler is applied to the drawn line, a paper knife is drawn along it, cutting a sheet of cardboard and trying to cut the plaster at least a little. A bar is placed under the place where the incision was made and lightly tapped along the sheet along the incision. Gypsum breaks at the same time, and almost perfectly exactly along the cut line. All that remains is to cut the bottom sheet of cardboard.

The video shows how to cut drywall without a saw.

In this way it is convenient to cut drywall in a straight line. Where curved lines are needed, a hacksaw is used - it has a small tooth and almost does not tear cardboard. They also use a jigsaw, but there is a lot of dust. You can also cut in a straight line with a hacksaw or jigsaw if you don’t like the previous method.

Instructions for installing plasterboard slopes

Elements cut from drywall can be installed:

on mounting foam;
for putty;
on the frame.

For mounting foam

Any person can “glue” drywall onto foam

Fixing the cut sheets to the mounting foam is very simple. But this can be done immediately if there are no large holes on the slopes. If the depressions are up to 3 cm, you can install slopes immediately, only pre-fill the largest potholes with foam (do not apply a lot, somewhere around 1/3 of the volume of the excavation).

If the irregularities are deeper than 3 cm, it is better to pre-seal them with cement mortar or a composition for starting plaster.

The procedure for installing plasterboard door slopes on mounting foam is as follows:

Having prepared the site (removing dust and falling off pieces, filling too large recesses with foam), apply mounting foam to the back side of the drywall blank with a thin (1 cm no more) snake.
Install the element in place, press it against the wall, the way this fragment should stand.
Tear it off and put it aside for 5-8 minutes. The foam remained on the wall and on the drywall sheet. In a few minutes, it expands in volume.
Install part of the slope in place and press well. Leave in this state until the foam is completely cured (for 12-24 hours).
Close the gaps between the plasterboard elements and the wall with plaster.

The plasterboard slope is done, finishing work remains.

The disadvantages of this method are quite serious. Firstly, the side and vertical surfaces must first be leveled, otherwise you will not be able to install the elements evenly. Secondly, there is a possibility that the workpiece will bend / bend. Thirdly, there are voids. Well, the most important thing is that the mount is not the most reliable. But the door slopes are made simply and quickly.

For putty

Instead of mounting foam, you can “glue” the cut-out fragments onto the diluted putty:

Cakes are applied to the sheets from a composition diluted to a paste state for working with drywall (better - finishing, it is more "sticky"). They should be located around the perimeter and somewhere in the middle.
Spray the slope cleared of dust and cracked old plaster with water from a spray bottle.
Set the workpiece in place and press well. You can rest against the plane with your palms and “shake” the fragment from side to side. Feel that the plaster has become blurry, and a piece of drywall has “stuck”.
If the fragment is tight and does not move, you can leave it until the putty grabs (for a day, sometimes two). If the element is held insecurely and can move, it needs to be supported with something. Preferably around the edges and in the middle. Leave it like this for at least 10-12 hours. Then the supports can be removed and wait for the putty to dry completely.

Methods for applying "patches" of putty can be different. The main thing is that the element holds well

The disadvantages of this method are the same. It is only necessary to say that the slopes on the windows in our apartment are made in this way. It was already 9 years ago, and so far - no problems.

On the frame

A more time-consuming, but also more reliable and versatile way to install plasterboard slopes is on an assembled frame. The frame is made of wooden bars or special profiles.

The guides are set vertically along the door jamb and at the corner. Between them, at a distance of 50-70 cm, small transverse jumpers are placed.

To install drywall slopes with your own hands, the frame is first assembled. It can be made from profiles or from wooden blocks.

With this method, there is one feature: measurements are carried out after the frame has been installed. The cut parts are put in place and fixed with self-tapping screws.

If the frame is assembled from profiles, self-tapping screws are needed for metal, if from bars - for wood. In any case, you need to twist carefully: so as not to tear the cardboard. If you pull too hard, the plaster may even burst or crumble. A large amount of marriage of this kind will lead to the fact that the drywall slope will not hold well.

Seal gaps and design the outer corner

The final touches before finishing the slope on the door are the sealing of cracks. They can be glued with a special tape for sealing corners, and then puttied. This method is useful where the drywall joins the door frame or where the vertical and horizontal parts of the slope meet. If the cracks here turned out to be quite small, they can simply be covered with putty and leveled well.

Corner tape can be paper or fiberglass. Both do a good job of preventing cracking.

There are also several ways to decorate the other side. The first is to paste over with the same tape for finishing the corners. But this method is suitable, if the angle is even, there are no problems. For beginners, this situation is rare. Much more often the angle needs to be “brought out”. In this case, use a metal paint corner. It has two sides perforated, which allows you to fix it in several ways:

on pieces of plasticine;
on a thick putty;
on screws or nails.

In the case of carnations, you need to be careful: they can get hurt during work. In general, this method is convenient, but again, if the angle turned out to be almost perfect.

Having fixed the corners, the drywall slopes are finally put in order - puttied

Perforated corners are set in level and in the same plane with the main wall. The resulting voids are filled with putty diluted to a pasty state. For initial leveling, starter putty is used. After it dries, all irregularities are smoothed out with a special mesh. It is used instead of sandpaper, which is clogged with putty instantly. The mesh for sanding putty is sold in the same stores that sell drywall. Then a layer of finishing, leveling putty is applied to the leveled surface. After drying, it also needs to be brought to a perfectly even state. They do it all with the same grid, only thinner.

If such a rigmarole with putty seems complicated to you, read about that. There definitely isn't any putty.

In general, without experience, it is difficult to make external corners ideal. Even when working with drywall. By installing perforated metal corners, we greatly facilitate our task. But still, it is not always possible to do everything perfectly. But even in this case there is a way out: decorative plastic corners. They are installed after the wall decoration is completed. They are selected either to match the door, or to match the finish. Stick to liquid nails. All you need to do is cut them to the desired length. They are cut with ordinary scissors. The main thing here is to cut off the angle at 45 ° at the top evenly.

If wood is more suitable for the design style, you can find a similar corner made of wood.

In fact, the role of a decorative corner for slopes is not only decoration. It also protects the corner from damage. This is especially true for entrance doors. If everything is covered with wallpaper, it also protects them from damage, which also happens quite often. That's all, the slopes of drywall are made, and with their own hands.

All these methods can be combined, as, for example, in the video.

Repair of window openings does not end with the installation of double-glazed windows. The final stage is the formation of slopes. The most popular material options are considered to be plaster, plastic and drywall.

The use of the latter has some advantages over other types of finishes.

Drywall Features

Usually, the design of slopes with drywall is chosen by people who want to carry out repairs on their own without the involvement of experienced specialists. The result is an aesthetic appearance of the window with slopes. This is due to some of the advantages of GKL.

Thermal and soundproof properties. If there is a desire to additionally insulate the room, you can install double slopes with a special insulating material.
Light weight, which allows you to make only a frame for mounting without additional reinforcement.
A perfectly flat surface when using GKL sheets contributes to accelerated finishing.

The ability of drywall to "breathe", that is, with temperature changes or changes in humidity levels, there is no need to be afraid of deformation of the sheets.
Environmental Safety. Even in combination with other additives, slopes do not emit harmful gases into the environment.
As a result of the work, minimal waste is obtained.

However, the disadvantages of the material during installation work should also be taken into account:

it is necessary to carefully handle drywall during repairs, to avoid any damage;
it is necessary to additionally protect the surface from high humidity, since even a moisture-resistant material will become vulnerable after some time when exposed to moisture.

Depending on the room where you want to install slopes, choose a material from a certain type:

with an average level of humidity in the room (up to 70%), standard drywall is suitable;
in conditions where the humidity is more than 70%, GKL with antifungal and hydrophobic additives are used;
in conditions of increased fire hazard, gypsum boards with additives such as fiberglass and mineral wool are suitable, this option is used extremely rarely, but its no less important advantage is its high mechanical strength.

Slope device

Indoors, ordinary drywall is used when making slopes. If this is a damp room, it is necessary to make slopes from moisture-resistant types of plasterboard. The thickness of one sheet is 1.2 cm. The installation of drywall slopes allows you to seal the joints and insulate the room, get an aesthetic and presentable appearance of the window.

The advantages of installing slopes include speed, low cost, ease of labor, obtaining the symmetry of the window opening and insulation, and the disadvantages are a decrease in light transmission.

Preparatory stage

Installation of slopes is possible only after preliminary preparation. For door and window openings, this process is the same. However, in the first case particular attention should be paid to certain points.

The presence of communications - cables, wires. You need to put them in correctly.
Possibility of installing an additional door. It may be needed if the first door is without insulation and there is no sound insulation.

Preparation for installing slopes on window openings is as follows:

Initially, you need to prepare the workspace. In order to be able to conveniently approach the window, nearby objects must be covered to protect them from moisture and dirt, since the installation of slopes from GKL is a “wet” job.
The base of the window reception is cleaned for good adhesion of the adhesive. Therefore, everything that exfoliates over time, falls off, falls off, then is washed with water is removed with a brush from the surface. The result is an absolutely clean base, which is carefully primed.

Tools and materials

Necessary tools and materials:

drywall;
adhesive solution;
soil mixture;
fasteners;
thermal insulation materials;

spatulas;
nozzle drill;
construction knife;
water;
mounting foam;
metal profiles.

Measurements and work with the opening

It is very important to measure windows correctly. It is advisable to measure the depth of the window opening twice on each plane to make sure they are even. If the values diverge, you can take the slope width equal to the largest value. But each panel must be the same size.

If the slopes are located at a certain angle, then they should be equal on two sides.

To get the exact dimensions of the side panels, you can first make corner templates from the GCR.

For the installation of window slopes and finishing of doorways, general rules apply.

Operating procedure:

the distance from the door jamb, window frame to the corner is measured, this procedure is done at least three times;
the height of the rack and the horizontal length are measured, in each section the measurement is carried out separately;
all values are transferred to paper, and a drawing of all elements is made.

cutting

Drywall is easy to cut, the process includes:

the required dimensions are transferred to the GKL plate;
the ruler is applied to the drawn line, a knife is drawn along it;
I put a bar under the pruning and break the sheet with a few blows along the edge, and simply cut off the bottom of the cardboard;
uneven areas are cut with an electric jigsaw or hacksaw.

Mounting methods

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes is carried out in several ways:

using mounting foam;
putty installation;
frame mounting;
adhesive method.

Using one of the methods, you can do the installation yourself for all types of bases.

Mounting foam

One of the fastest and easiest slope installation procedures is the use of mounting foam. It can also be used for small gaps between the window opening and the sloping corner. But it must be remembered that in this case it is impossible to make a mistake with the amount of materials, as this will lead to deformation of the coating.

A certain order of laying slopes from GKL sheets is used:

Surface preparation.
The cylinder with polyurethane foam is thoroughly shaken. It is best to use compounds that are applied with a construction gun. But with a small surface area, you can do without them.
The composition is applied in a thin layer on the reverse side of the parts to be glued.
The part is applied to the surface and immediately torn back.
After 10 minutes, the element is finally applied to the surface vertically, then horizontally, and again vertically.
After one day, you can start finishing.

This option is considered optimal if you have to install slopes in a short time. Foam in this case will serve as an adhesive composition and insulation, since it can be used to replace mineral wool.

Putty installation

The putty option is chosen when they want to make the slopes more reliable and durable.

Operating procedure:

careful preparation of the surface, preparation of the mixture;
applying the solution to the wrong side of the part over the entire area of the panel;
installation of the element on the surface, while you need to make sure that it sticks well. For better adhesion, the base is sprayed with water to moisten. And for reliability and strength of fixation, spacers are installed.

each fragment is installed on the surface, after which it is left for two days for better setting of the solution and the base;
execution of finishing.

The result is a reliable coating.

This method is suitable for mounting slopes on entrance and interior interior doors made of plasterboard.

Frame mounting

This method allows you to get a practical surface, but it is important to know that the material is fastened with self-tapping screws or dowels. Therefore, it is necessary to adhere to some rules, for example, screws must be twisted without a recess on the surface, but flush.

Creating a crate:

it is necessary to arm yourself with wooden beams or metal profiles;
segments are cut out of the guides, the dimensions of which were obtained during measurements;
if necessary, the frame can be insulated with mineral wool;
drywall elements are installed only after the crate has been created;
self-tapping screws fix all the details to the surface.

This method is suitable when the installation of slopes is carried out in combination with cladding of adjacent walls. When working with doorways, its size will slightly decrease.

glue method

This installation method, at first glance, seems simple, but there are some difficulties, for example, it is necessary to observe the angles of inclination when gluing the elements. The adhesive method is recommended to be used when there is a need to maintain the original dimensions of window openings.

The advantages of the adhesive method include:

speed of execution;
the minimum amount of materials;
before painting the surface, it is enough only to putty the slopes.

Slopes of plasterboard sheets are coated with glue. To prevent the adhesive composition from spreading after pressing the element to the surface, glue should be applied in a non-continuous layer on drywall.

So that the upper parts do not fall off while the glue dries, spacers are used that rest against the window sill or the floor, and drywall parts are fixed at the other end.

After installing the slopes, it may be necessary to seal the joints. In this case, acrylic sealant will come to the rescue, which allows you to protect the cracking of the seams. It can be given the desired shade with acrylic paint.

Making sloped corners

The gap between the wall and the plasterboard is plastered. The resulting seam is processed by sheathing with reinforcing tape or mesh, and then puttied.

The corners are reinforced with a perforated corner, which is attached with a stapler.

Finishing

Finishing is necessary to give the structure a presentable appearance. For this process, you need to purchase a putty composition and paint. And you can also install profiled metal corners to prevent premature wear of drywall corners. To do this, perforated protective parts are installed on the corner slopes. To avoid voids and irregularities, the adhesive composition is applied in a thin uniform layer, as when working with slope elements.

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