How to make stairs to the second floor in a private house with your own hands - a diagram and dimensions, how to correctly calculate the project. Staircase to the second floor in a private house, choose a suitable project View of the stairs to the 2nd floor

Low-rise construction, when it comes to residential buildings, involves the construction of at least two-level buildings. Therefore, to move to the second floor, you cannot do without an internal staircase. The purchase of a ready-made kit, firstly, will be quite expensive (at least 35,000 rubles), and secondly, it must be adapted to specific premises before installation, or be reconstructed (re-planned). And this is an additional cost and time.

In most cases, it is more expedient to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, especially since it will turn out to be approximately the same in terms of time. The simplest and most inexpensive option is wood construction. This article will explain in detail all the nuances of choosing lumber, drawing up a staircase drawing and the features of its assembly.

In relation to a private house, two are most common - a spiral staircase and a mid-flight staircase. The first option is quite complicated, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to implement it with your own hands, without practical skills and experience in this area. You will have to make specific engineering calculations, which means that you cannot do without the help of a professional at least at this stage of preparation. Focusing only on the schemes available on the Internet is not entirely correct. They do not take into account the specifics of a particular structure, so they will definitely have to be processed taking into account the characteristics of its dimensions, layout and a number of other factors. And the installation of a spiral staircase itself, especially a wooden one, is far from a simple process.

For DIY assembly the optimal solution is a mid-flight wooden staircase. Based on the height of the premises on the first floor, there can be one or two spans (swivel structure).

But in the details, even completely identical stairs can differ greatly. And this is easily explained by the fact that making with your own hands implies an element of creativity. Since all private houses differ in many ways (dimensions, ceiling heights, layout, internal content), then following a single standard is a hopeless business. By the way, the author has already drawn the attention of the reader to this. Therefore, below are only general recommendations that will help you correctly draw up a drawing of a wooden staircase, taking into account all the features of the structure, and install it in place.

general information

There are several options for the execution of mid-flight stairs. Their main varieties are shown in the figures below. It is not difficult to decide which modification to choose for installation with your own hands, knowing all the features of the house and the premises of the first and second floors.

When describing any product or prefabricated structure, one cannot do without special terminology. The following drawings explain well what the main elements of the stairs are called.

Preparation of materials

When choosing a tree species, if you focus on a reasonable combination of quality / price, it is recommended to give preference to pine or larch. The latter is even better, as it is less prone to decay. In addition, when the liquid is absorbed, it only becomes stronger. Since there will definitely be evaporation in any living space, it is more than relevant, especially if there is a kitchen in the adjacent room. All other species - cedar, oak and a number of others - are unlikely to be budget options for a wooden staircase.
The durability of the structure largely depends on the degree of drying of the lumber. If the wood in this regard is not sufficiently processed, then such a ladder will “lead” quite quickly. Drying the boards with your own hands is a process that is both troublesome and complicated. You will need not only a place for their storage, but also knowledge of all the features of the methodology. You will have to ensure the constancy of temperature, high-quality ventilation, and so on. The conclusion is unequivocal - it is not advisable to save on the material for a wooden staircase. That is, if you buy boards, then only a high degree of drying, although they are more expensive.

Calculation of the main parameters of the stairs

Width

When determining this parameter, one should be guided by such moments. Firstly, whether it will be convenient to move up the stairs at the same time, towards each other. Secondly, will it be possible to transfer oversized cargo from floor to floor (furniture, household appliances, and so on). For a private house recommended width of the internal stairs – 130±20.

Ladder height

When calculating this parameter, inexperienced "home masters" are guided by the ceiling of the first floor room. This is not true. When drawing up a staircase drawing, not only this parameter is taken into account, but also the total thickness of the ceiling and floor of the second room (together with the finish). That is, the last step should be on the same level with it.

span height

The distance between the steps and the ceiling of the second floor (ceiling) is implied. It is clear that moving up the stairs, constantly bending your head is not an option to save space. Basically, the masters are guided by 200. This is enough, since rarely anyone has growth that exceeds this value.

Steepness of a wooden staircase

A slope of 40 ± 5º is considered optimal. Exceeding this value will complicate the climb to the second floor for the elderly, young children, as well as those whose physical capabilities are limited for some reason. But even a more flat design has a number of disadvantages. The consumption of wood is increasing, and much more space will be needed for its installation. Here you need to choose the most suitable option for a particular house.

steps

Tread. You should focus on the 45th size of a person's foot, then it will be convenient for everyone to walk up the stairs. Based on this, the recommended step width is within 28 ± 2.

Riser. The optimal value, regardless of the design features of the wooden stairs, is 18±2. It will be convenient for both children and a tall person to move along it.

Number of steps. This requires a calculation. The distance between adjacent ones is simply determined - the thickness of their board + risers. When a fractional value is received, it is rounded up to an integer value. It remains only to divide the height of the stairs by it.

What to consider:

The dimensions of all steps of the flight ladder must be identical. That is, it is enough to make calculations for only one.
If there are more than 18 steps, then it is recommended to provide a platform in the design of the stairs (hence, at least 2 marches). It is called differently - viewing, turning, intermediate - but you need to mount it. Another question - where exactly should it be located - strictly in the center of the span, closer to the top of the stairs? Here it is worth thinking, in accordance with the features of the house and the convenience of moving to the second floor.

Ladder length

This is the last step in the calculations. The initial data are the parameters of the steps and their number. As practice shows, when drawing up a drawing of a staircase on its own, it often does not fit in terms of the estimated length to the premises of the first floor. How to proceed? There are several options:

Add one march. This solution is more complicated, since you will have to mount an additional platform, and, therefore, re-do the basic calculations.
Provide for several turning (winder) steps in the design of the stairs. The option is simpler and more convenient for doing it yourself. It is he who is most often implemented.

Features of mounting a wooden staircase

Regardless of its design, all basic technological operations are identical. If you understand the nuances of building a single-flight staircase, then it will not be difficult to assemble it according to any other scheme.

The specifics of the preparation of components

Steps. For them, board segments are selected that do not have any defects in the form of chips, cracks, curvature. Their recommended thickness, taking into account the expected loads, is 35 ± 5. More impractical, since both the consumption of material and the total weight of the structure increase. Less undesirable for reasons of safety when moving up stairs (taking into account the loads carried).

At the stage of preparing the steps, it is necessary to round off the sharp edges of the fragments of the boards in order to eliminate the risk of injury. In addition, their front surface and ends must be carefully sanded - no chips, burrs, and so on. Here you will be most welcome. The length of the steps is selected depending on the chosen scheme of the wooden staircase. But their protrusions beyond the stringers by more than 3 (cm) are undesirable.

Riser. They are not load-bearing elements, and often play only a decorative role. Here you can save a little on them by using a board for 10 or 15. By the way, some wooden stairs are assembled without them. Such structures look even more impressive, and, in addition, the cleaning of spans is greatly simplified.

Kosoura. These are supporting elements for the entire staircase, so the lumber for them should be chosen especially carefully. Particular attention is paid to the equality of all parameters. Both stringers should be like "twin brothers", otherwise the staircase after assembly will turn out to be asymmetric, with distortions, curvature, and so on. The figures show some variants of stringers.

The feasibility of making do-it-yourself fencing elements is in question. Well, if it is possible to process balusters, handrails on machine tools. Otherwise, it is better to purchase ready-made samples. Taking into account the fact that it is they (especially with a side view) that are the first to catch the eye, such costs are fully justified.

The nuances of installing a wooden staircase

Kosour fastening. Fixing the extreme on the wall is possible only if the base is strong enough (a house made of bricks, timber, and so on). In other cases, the entire staircase structure is mounted on racks.

To prevent movement of the lower part, a support bar is installed on the floor of the first floor. The top of the span is attached to the ceiling itself (you will need to make a cutout in the beam along its width) or “fastened” to it with anchor bolts. The stringers themselves must also be fastened together so that they are not “led” during the drying process of the wood. For example, yes.

Riser. If it is decided to use them in the staircase scheme, then they are mounted on stringers.

Steps. In order not to be mistaken, their installation begins from the bottom of the structure. Side mounts - on the support beams, if there are risers, then at least at one point (in the center) on them.

Balusters. First, only two are mounted - the upper and lower. A cord is stretched between them. Focusing on it, it is easy to install stairs along the flights and align all the others.

Handrail attachment. When it comes to a wooden staircase, this a priori does not mean that these elements must also be made of wood. It is quite difficult to make them from it with your own hands. Here you will need not only experience, but also the appropriate tool. Options for handrails - plastic or metal.

Final stage

After checking the symmetry of the structure, the reliability of all connections, a number of measures are taken:

Grinding of all structural parts.
Impregnation with special / compositions (from fire, rot, wood-boring insects).
Surface finish. The painting option is not for a private house. It is advisable to treat the stairs with a tinting compound, and on top or with a wax-containing solution. But this is at the discretion of the owner, depending on the general style of finishing the room.

If there is more than one floor in a private house, you cannot do without stairs. But besides the fact that it must connect the floors, the staircase must also fit into the interior. Therefore, when choosing a design, it is necessary to pay attention not only not to the dimensions and how much space it takes in the room, but also to take into account the style. Then the stairs to the second floor, made by hand, will not only be a functional item, but also an interior decoration. The work is difficult and responsible, but it can be done.

Types of stairs to the second floor in a private house

All these structures can be made of metal, wood, concrete, glass, marble and other decorative stones, and often use combinations of these materials. But most often the staircase to the second floor is made of wood with your own hands, a little less often - from metal or combinations of metal and wood.

In addition, there are two types of degrees - open and closed. In open stairs there is only a horizontally located part - the step itself, in closed ones - there is also a vertical part - risers.

Design codes

When designing a staircase, it is important to make it comfortable and safe. There are very specific numbers and recommendations that relate to the parameters of the steps and the general angle of ascent:

The number of steps is determined by elementary dividing the height of the planned staircase by the chosen height of the riser. For example, the height of the room is 285 cm. It was decided to make the angle of elevation 40°. According to the table, we see that the height of the riser is 19 cm. We divide 285 cm / 19 cm = 15 steps. If the number turns out to be even, we slightly adjust the size accordingly to get an odd number.

If one of the steps turns out to be several centimeters smaller, this height is “taken away” from the first step. All others, including the last one, should be the same.

When choosing the size of steps, comfort can be checked. If the double height of the riser is added to the selected step width, the result should be from 60 ms to 64 cm. The second test option is that the sum of the lengths of the tread and the riser is optimally 45 cm, but deviations of 2 cm in both directions are acceptable.

All these parameters should be taken into account when designing a house. If the house has already been built, you have to proceed from the fact that there is and adjust the dimensions to the existing dimensions.

Spiral staircase

As already mentioned, a spiral staircase in a private house takes up the least space. But she has a serious drawback: it is inconvenient to walk on it, and it is almost impossible to lift anything bulky to the second floor. So they are not very popular, although they look good and fit well into any interior.

Calculation features

When designing a spiral staircase, one must take into account that in some positions, there are other steps above the head. Therefore, making small risers will not work.

The next feature is that the steps all have an unequal width - narrower on one side, wider on the other. The narrow part they are attached to the central support (pillar), the wide part - to the walls or balusters. The standard for the width of the tread is measured in the middle part, and the wide one should not be more than 40 cm.

The span width is from 50 cm to 100 cm. Double the distance goes to the entire structure - a square with a side of 100 cm to 200 cm is required.

Construction on a prefabricated column

This type of spiral staircase is the easiest to make: a pipe is placed on which wooden elements are put on - steps, intermediate cylinders, etc.

If you look in more detail, then in addition to the metal pipe (in this case, 40 mm in diameter), steps and balusters (available in any design), there are turned wooden cylinders (segments) that set the distance from one step to another.

On the other hand, the distance between the steps is kept with the help of cuts on the balusters. Steps are attached to these grooves (on glue + fasteners).

Do-it-yourself installation of stairs to the second floor begins with the installation of a pillar. In the floor of the first floor and the ceiling of the second, a hole is made equal to the diameter of the pillar. We insert the pipe into the hole, put on an enlarged washer, tighten the nut. Further, the assembly is simple: the corresponding elements are mounted on the rod, in parallel with the installation of the step, the baluster is placed and fixed. The dimensions of the steps for this spiral staircase with the given parameters are in the drawing.

Steps are cut from glued board or furniture board. You can use an array, but of furniture quality, that is, without any defects and dried, with a moisture content of not more than 8-12%. Although glued wood is considered more reliable: it definitely will not lead and it will not crack during shrinkage.

An example of an assembly of such a design, see the video. It has a prefabricated post, but you can also use a solid one, although it will be inconvenient to assemble the steps - you will have to climb the stairs every time.

The design of a metal spiral staircase is presented in the following video fragment. For those who are friends with welding, this option will be easier.

Spiral staircase to the second floor: photos of interesting options

With railings or without railings, the choice is yours. In the photo on the right, a wooden spiral staircase on a bent stringer is a difficult element to perform Forged spiral staircases are a classic of the genre

Staircase to the second floor

Marching stairs are the most popular. Firstly, they are convenient to use, and secondly, the technology of their construction has long been worked out. There are few features of the calculation. It is important to determine the number of marches. In one section there should be from 3 to 15 steps. The most convenient have 11-13 pieces. If, according to the calculation, it turns out that there should be more steps, they are divided into several sections, between which platforms are made. The dimensions of the platforms are a multiple of the step length (600-630 mm). Then the ascent and descent will not cause inconvenience.

Kinds

Ladders with platforms take up quite a lot of space. If there is not enough space, add turns. The most common option is to place the stairs along two adjacent walls at the corners. Also, to save space, you can make winder (turning) steps instead of a platform. Only one point: the section with winder steps is the most traumatic. If the family has small children or elderly people, it is better to make a playground.

As mentioned earlier, mid-flight stairs are made on stringers (beams with a sawtooth edge) and on terraces (just an inclined beam). Fastening steps to bowstring beams requires more time and skill. Usually, a “seat” is cut out for each step - a groove is selected in the board. For additional reliability, bars are still nailed from below or corners are installed. The option with corners is reliable, but rather controversial from an aesthetic point of view. If the whole staircase is made of wood, the metal parts are very "cut" the look. Carefully processed bars look much more organic. However, with sufficient thickness of the boards for the steps and the width of the bowstring, you can do without additional fasteners. In this case, it is important that the steps do not bend, otherwise they may pop out of the grooves.

The assembly of steps on stringers is simpler: you have two or three supports, to which parts cut to size are attached. The main task is to correctly mark and cut out the stringers.

This is a ladder on stringers - one of the fragments of the assembly

Installation of a marching staircase with step by step photos

Stringers are made from a wide board 75-80 mm thick and 350-400 mm wide. If there is no massive dry board, glued boards can be used. How to calculate the kosour is described in the form, but it is possible to assemble a staircase to the second floor not only as a separate one.

An example of assembling a ladder on the stringers next to the wall. First, we fix the support pillars on which the winder steps will rest. We attach the upper stringers to these pillars.

Then we put the bottom. We fasten the kosour near the wall on top of a decorative board - it is easier to wash it and the dirt is less visible than on the wall.

We fasten the lower stringers - one to the pole, the second to the finishing board

Intermediate stringers are installed last. This makes it easier to connect all the elements.

The steps are being installed. After they are cut, sanded and painted, everything is simple: put in place, drill a hole for a self-tapping screw, then twist it.

The next step is attaching the balusters. In this case, they are made of stainless steel pipe with wooden inserts. A hole is drilled under each baluster, into which a tube is inserted, it is fixed on a hairpin or in any other available way.

Photos of interesting mid-flight stairs to the 2nd floor

Metal and glass - an interesting combination An interesting idea, and from the end - a pantry

A properly designed turning staircase will perfectly complement the interior.

Any private house with more than one floor forces its owner to build an interfloor staircase. It is quite possible for an experienced owner in construction matters to make it with his own hands. But it should be borne in mind that it is better to think about building in advance - even before building a house, at the design stage.

Complicated staircase structures are obtained due to an elementary lack of space. The owners in such cases make a choice in favor of a spiral staircase or a marching staircase with a turn. It is possible to achieve success in the construction of an interfloor staircase with your own hands if you correctly calculate the entire staircase structure and plan the process of its construction. But to consult a specialist, for example, about the permissible load on the stairs, of course, is worth it.

What type of construction to choose

First of all, you need to decide on the purpose and frequency of its use. In some cases, a light, foldable, non-rotating, and heavy-duty design is the preferred option. For example, when the 2nd floor is an attic (or even an attic), then it is unlikely that there will be a need to move large and heavy objects there. The number of people regularly going up to such a floor will also be small.

In some cases, just such a ladder will be appropriate.

The most common and easiest to manufacture design that connects the second floor to the first is a marching staircase. It is not only convenient, but also safe, and this is important if children and the elderly will use the stairs. In addition, a well-made mid-flight staircase can easily be lifted to the top floor and lowered back large items - furniture, for example, or building materials. It is easier to build a marching staircase with your own hands. It is usually built from wood or metal.

The marching staircase is not only very convenient, it is also very easy to construct it on your own.

The stairs to the second floor are often made in several marches. The reason for this decision is the need to fit the structure into a limited space, while maintaining the correct angle of inclination.

Important!
If the ladder is made too steep, it will be uncomfortable to use.

Revolving stairs with a comfortable angle of inclination of marches.

What is the use of drawing

The homeowner has every right to do everything at his own discretion - to choose the height and width of the structure, build it from wood or metal parts, do all the work with his own hands or hire specialists, make a choice in favor of one configuration or another. But still, you should carefully consider the observance of certain parameters of the stairs. To make it safe and comfortable, you should, first of all, maintain the correct ratio of the height and depth of the steps, because it is these dimensions that determine the slope of the entire structure.

Non-standard steps can and will give your staircase an original look, but it will not be very comfortable to use it.

In any case, drawing up a drawing of the future staircase will allow you to take into account all the subtleties of the structure connecting the first floor to the second, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of errors. Even the fitting of parts is most likely not needed if the drawing is done properly (which, by the way, is not so difficult). Another positive point is the ability to accurately calculate the amount of material required for the manufacture of a ladder structure.

Even such a simple drawing will allow you to avoid a lot of mistakes.

main parameters

The drawing should begin with a floor plan. It includes doors, windows, furniture and other possible obstacles. It is advisable to take further design steps only after familiarizing yourself with the existing building codes regarding staircases. Here is a list of the most basic ones:

The slope of the stairs must not exceed 45°.
The minimum march width is 0.9 m.
The maximum riser height is 20 cm.
The depth of the step is not less than 25 cm.
Fencing (railing height) - 0.9 m.

In addition, all steps must be the same height, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to walk up the stairs. The only exceptions are the first and last steps. Sometimes calculations require this, and sometimes the first step is made in the form of a platform in front of the stairs.

It is noteworthy that a different march width within the same staircase is allowed.

average human step

The convenience of the stairs will also depend on what the value of the step of a person is taken in the calculations. The average human height is in the range of 160-180 cm, the step corresponding to this growth is 60-64 cm.

The length of the foot is also taken into account. It is assumed here that the walker feels safe when 70% of his foot is on the supporting surface. Again, based on average values, the step depth is chosen from the range of 25–30 cm. There is a formula that relates three parameters: 2h + d ≈ 60–64 cm, where 2h is twice the height of the riser, d is the depth of the tread, and the sum of these numbers should give the value of the average human step. It is worth noting that this formula is not a "panacea", the poet should not take it as a prerequisite.

An alternative way to calculate stairs Part 1

An alternative way to calculate stairs Part 2

How difficult is drawing

To draw a diagram of a direct march, it will be enough school knowledge from the geometry course. You can do it yourself. But before applying the drawing of the future staircase to the floor plan, it is necessary to calculate all its parameters. To do this, you can use the following instructions:

The number of steps is calculated - the height of the room is divided by the height of one step. In this case, the overlap should be taken into account, that is, the distance from the floor of the 1st floor to the floor of the 2nd is taken.
Then you need to determine the length of the structure, for this the depth of the tread is multiplied by the number of steps. If the length is known or there are serious restrictions on its value, then they do the opposite - calculate the depth of the tread based on the length of the march: divide the estimated length by the number of steps.
Make the necessary adjustments to make the design comfortable and fit into the interior of the room.
The area of the staircase structure is calculated: the width of the march is multiplied by its length.
The lengths of the support beams (bowstrings or stringers) are also required. For the calculation, they use the Pythagorean theorem - the height of the ladder structure and its projection onto the horizontal axis act as legs. The square root of the sum of the squares of these dimensions will give the hypotenuse - the desired length.
The obtained values are entered into the drawing.

Stair turn

Now the most important thing is that first the parameters of the turning part are calculated, and only then they take up the marches. Here you need more knowledge than in the case of simple stairs and without a well-constructed drawing it will be difficult to figure it out. Drawings made by professionals can serve as a good example for beginners. It should also be borne in mind that calculations are often a process of successive approximation, that is, it is far from always possible to immediately get into those same dimensions, you have to refine individual parameters step by step.

The drawing should display the stairs in three projections.

How is a turn made? There are two options - inter-span platform or winder steps. The first option is easier, you can do it yourself. In addition, it is more convenient to use the site, but space is needed.

Designs differ in ease of use and complexity of design.

The second option is used when there is not enough space. The calculations in this case are more complicated - you will have to try to make the stairs comfortable and safe. The following methods are used to calculate winder steps:

proportional;
Danish;
line rotation method;
sweep method.

We draw running steps.

Important!
When using winder steps, it is necessary to control their depth on the line of motion - it should not be less than 20 cm.

The depth of the tread of winder steps, as a rule, is increased by creating an overlap of 3-4 cm. It is undesirable to exceed this value, since the descent can become uncomfortable and even dangerous. When there is not enough room to fully place the foot, a person may slip, which will lead to injury. Climbing such steps is also inconvenient - the toe will constantly cling to an overly large overlap.

The 180° swivel design requires a certain distance between flights. A value of 75 mm is the minimum allowed for this gap.

Creating Winder Steps for a Revolving Stair

Ready options

Not all owners of private houses have the desire and time to make drawings and do construction work with their own hands. Especially when there are very good options for finished ladder structures assembled from modules. A variety of modifications are available - straight, screw, curvilinear. Some are assembled from wooden elements, others from metal. And all this is no more difficult than a children's designer - a few hours are spent on it. The height and width of the parts are easily adjustable, making it possible to fit the staircase into the interior and provide access to the upper floor in the shortest possible time. The variety of style solutions will allow you to find the right option for any situation.

Modern modular stairs can be very stylish and yet easy to assemble.

It is also worth paying attention to specialized software designed to calculate various parameters - SolidWorks, StairDesigner and others. With such tools, building a complex structure with your own hands will become possible even for someone who has not dealt with drawings. In addition, there are free online services for designing simple structures, that is, anyone can try their hand at designing without installing additional software on their computer.

Designing a staircase in the Compass program (simple version)

Stair design in AutoCAD (complex)

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not pay attention to minor defects during construction, which can later lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. A staircase to the second floor, made by yourself, will give you several advantages:

the result will meet expectations;
help save money and nerves;
a staircase made by yourself will become your pride.

If you are limited in funds for the purchase of materials, you can buy cheaper analogues: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be varnished or painted.

In the pursuit of economy, quality can be overlooked. Although a cheap wooden staircase can also last quite a long time, it will start to creak very soon. In order not to encounter this trouble, the stairs must be assembled using silicone sealant, which cannot be done without pre-painting the parts.

In this article, we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with our own hands from wood and metal, and also show photo and video instructions.

For the manufacture of an interfloor staircase, concrete with a tile or marble lining, metal (a welding machine is required), as well as wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is lightweight, easy to install and beautiful in appearance.

In the presence of a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, preference should be given to direct structures, or with a 25% turn of the stairs. The flight of stairs is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storage. It is impossible not to note the minus: on the upper and lower floors, the free space will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters, the spiral version of the staircase is ideal, but it is also not without drawbacks:

too steep climb;
small width stairs.

To install a spiral staircase, you will need 3 m² of free space and a lot of work.

Another variant of the ladder device is possible, in which it is located along the wall surface. In this case, it is worth considering two marches and a turn. Thus, you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.

Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first and second floors together with the ceiling. Thus, you determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18-20 cm. Further dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you will get the total number of steps.
Projection of dimensions on the floor surface. To design a structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (about 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. As a result, you will get the projection size.
Production of staircase elements. To make a kosour, you will need a 14 × 16 beam, steps - 4 cm boards, risers - 2.5 cm boards. You will determine the length of the steps yourself, remember that the larger it is, the better.
Pre-sampling. If during the preliminary fitting of the parts everything came up, process each element with a grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the parts of the stairs to each other, coat all the places where they come into contact with each other with glue (PVA or carpentry) and additionally fix it with screws.
Stain and lacquer finish. First, apply a stain on the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover with several layers of varnish.

As a design solution, you can consider mortise steps that are inserted into the grooves cut in the stringer:

Make markings on the stringer at the places where the steps are installed. Using a hacksaw and a chisel, cut out the grooves.
In the center of the groove, make several holes with a size of 9 mm.
Screw the turbo coupling into the holes made.
Install the step into the groove and tighten the bolts.

When buying planed wood, the following requirements must be considered:

there should be no dark spots on the surface;
the presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (diameter up to 1 cm) can only be present if steps or risers are made from the material. Also pay attention to humidity, the large mass of the board suggests that you should refuse to purchase.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.

Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of manufacturing stairs made of wood. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual structural details. To do this, take a well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. In doing so, several factors should be taken into account:

The strength and reliability of the stairs will depend entirely on the correct cutting of the stringers. Therefore, their production must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the kosour, it is necessary to choose a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45–50 mm.
The board for risers can have a thickness of 15-20 mm more than allotted for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should have a perfectly flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be in the range of 30–35 mm.
If you want to make a closed staircase with risers, then their manufacture must also be extremely accurate. Its thickness should not be large, 15-20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
As for balusters and handrails, it is recommended that they be purchased ready-made with stationary mounts.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.

When all the blanks of the structure are ready, you can proceed to the most important stage of work - the installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

Stringers are mounted at the selected location. To do this, fix the support beam on the floor, it is on it that the kosour will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out in a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, a metal support is used for fastening. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. During the installation of the kosour, be sure to check everything by level or plumb.
Before laying the tread sheet, the risers must be screwed on.

After that, treads are fixed on the stringers and on top of the risers with self-tapping screws in the direction from bottom to top.
After that, the installation of balusters is carried out.

So, on top of the stairs and below you mount support drains. They will serve as the border of the handrails and also support the railing.

In addition, the support posts serve as a decoration. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.

Balusters, in turn, can have different shapes, sizes and fastening methods. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be closed with a decorative plug. Further work is as follows:

On top of the installed balusters, fasten the railing to the extreme support posts. Additionally, 1 or 2 additional support posts can be installed in the middle.
When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters between the posts, you can install several boards parallel to the slope of the stairs.
At the next stage, you can start grinding with an emery or grinder. After that, a paint coating is applied.

The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and the appearance of mold / fungus. The design should dry out, after which you can proceed to the main painting.

The stairs are covered with water-based varnish, hot wax or paint. You can also cover the wood with stain, which will slightly darken the structure. Everything depends on your desire.

Thus, the wooden staircase is ready for operation.

Ladder made of metal requires a lot of labor, plus not everyone has the skills to work with a welding machine. And yet, if you are ready to complete the work of such a plan, then you need to prepare such a set of tools:

Welding machine and electrodes for DC Ø3.2 and 1.6 mm.
Protective mask of the welder.
Mittens.
Bulgarian and cutting discs 125 × 1.6 mm.
Grinding disc 125 mm.
Drill and a set of drill bits for metal.
Metal table.
Clamp that can be adjusted in height from 0 to 800 mm.
Vice.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Metal paint.
White Spirit.
Primer.

With all this, as well as suitable material, you can proceed with the installation work. As for the selection of material, this can be done according to the completed drawing. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the principle of manufacturing a metal staircase on two stringers.

It is worth noting right away that the whole process consists of the following phased actions:

Production of blanks.
Filly making, i.e. step attachment points.
Corner welding.
Kosour installation.
Welding steps and railings.
Sanding and priming/painting.

All work should be done slowly, strictly adhering to all dimensions of the drawing. Otherwise, any small distortion will be problematic to fix, moreover, it will spoil the appearance of the finished structure. So, the work is carried out as follows:

From the corners it is necessary to make fasteners for the steps (filly). In relation to each other, they should be mirrored.
You can make fillies from a corner. To do this, cut out the samples and dock the corners together. The result should be L-shaped blanks with shelves down and inward. Depending on the number of steps, you make a pair of fillies. One of them will be on the left, the other on the right.
Between each pair of corners, weld brackets for fastening the steps and crossbars. The crossbar is similarly made from a corner.
To increase the strength, you can install small scarves from the bottom of the step towards the stringer.
Now take a square profile pipe and mark it on it, or rather, on its edge. On it you can weld fillies to the kosour. Transfer exactly the same markup to another kosour. As a result, it will be possible to achieve the geometry of the entire structure.

If the metal staircase has a width of more than 1.2 m, then you will need to install an additional stringer.

Next, you need to mount the kosour. At the bottom, it is welded to the support platform, and at the top it is fixed to the floor slab or to the wall with anchors. In each case, the method of fastening may differ. Therefore, be guided by the features of your opening. During this process, it is important to stick to the level. Moreover, two stringers must be strictly on the same level. In conclusion, it remains to weld the steps to the fillies. As an option, you can install wooden steps on the filly. But for this you need to use mounting bolts.

The uppermost step should be installed as close as possible to the wall (if the stringers are anchored to the wall). Next, weld the fence. At the same time, install it on the side so as not to reduce the width of the steps.

When arranging the railing, you can use forging or purchase prepared elements. Here again, it all depends on your personal taste and vision of the final result.

When all welding work is completed, it's time to grind all welding joints. It is also necessary to eliminate all burrs and notches. Using a wire brush, sweep away all particles. After that, the surface of the stairs is primed and painted in the desired color.

If the steps are wooden, then their installation is carried out after the paint has dried.

Finally, you can decorate the stairs. For example, trim the steps from the bottom side with wood. Stainless steel railings are also available. Lay steps with ceramic tiles. Due to this, a seemingly careless and bulky design will acquire beautiful outlines and will be an excellent addition to the interior of the house.

Although this whole process may seem easy, working with metal is very tedious. Unlike working with wood, when it is easy to fix defects in case of shortcomings, it is much more problematic with metal. However, the life of the entire structure significantly exceeds its analogue from wood.

If we talk about attractiveness and a bright element of the interior, then competitors to the spiral staircase can hardly be found. With the right construction, it will last for many years. It can be made both from wood and from metal with forging elements. There are 4 main types of spiral staircases:

Design with wedge-shaped steps, which with a narrow side rest on a supporting central column, and with a wide side on a wall or a fabricated frame. In this case, spiral bowstrings are constructed on stringers.
A free-standing structure, remote from the walls with cantilevered steps on a monolithic pillar placed in the center.
Design without a central support column. The steps are supported by curved bowstrings or stringers, which smoothly pass into the railing. This option is very beautiful and sophisticated. However, it is very difficult to manufacture.
Design with a central support rod (an asbestos-cement or steel pipe Ø50 mm can act as a support). This type of ladder is the most common.

As practice shows, the most convenient spiral staircases with a span of 0.8–0.9 m wide. As a result, the diameter of the entire staircase structure will reach up to 2 m, this is taking into account the central support post and railings. If we talk about the shape of the stairs, then it can be round, square, rectangular or oval.

If the traffic intensity in your house is small, then the total diameter of the stairs is enough to make up to 1.5 m. In this case, the treads will have a width of up to 0.6 m.

It is also necessary to consider the ergonomics of the spiral staircase. The principle of the size and height of the steps is the same as on ordinary straight stairs, we have already talked about such measurements above. But there are some features, namely a comfortable lifting height for a person. For example, we suggest you consider the option of a spiral staircase, 3 m high and 0.8 m march wide.

The calculations are presented below:

The total diameter of the stairs with such dimensions is equal to twice the width of the march, and the thickness of the support post is 20 cm. As a result, we get the following - D = 0.8 × 2 + 0.20 = 1.8 m.
The lifting radius is equal to half the width of the flight of stairs and support: Rn \u003d 0.4 + 0.1 \u003d 0.5 cm.
Now dividing the length of the trajectory of movement by the depth of the tread, we can determine the number of steps in one turn: L = 2 π: 200 = 2 × 3.14 × 500: 200 = 17.2. As a result, there can be 17 steps in one turn of the flight of stairs.
It is also necessary to calculate the ergonomic step height. This must be done from the point of view that a person in full growth can move freely. Take for example a height of 1.8 m, add operational 20 to this value and divide by the number of steps in one turn. As a result, it turns out like this: h \u003d 2000: 17 \u003d 120 mm.

If the spiral staircase has a height of 3 m, then to determine the number of steps, perform the following steps n = 3000: 120 = 25. The result is 25 steps, 12 cm high.

In order for the spiral staircase to be durable and easy to use, it is important to observe the following rules:

On a spiral staircase, it is better not to install risers. This will increase the safety of the structure, and the foot will rest well on the step and not slip off the step in a narrow place.
If the height of the passage is 2 m, then even a tall person can comfortably move up the stairs.
To install the support stand, choose a place that will support the weight of the entire structure and 2-3 people.

For steps, it is best to choose a durable wood, such as oak or beech. Although it is much easier to buy ready-made steps. For example, you get a rectangular step and cut out the required configuration from it. The thickness of the product can be 40mm or 30mm. If one step is divided diagonally, then the result will be two steps at once. The edges of the workpiece must be rounded and sanded with a grinder. Then you can cover them with varnish or paint. A special sleeve should be fixed on the step, which will hold it on the support post.

Building a staircase to the second floor is a rather complicated procedure, but with experience and a good step-by-step guide, it is quite possible to handle it yourself. The main difficulty in this case is that the dimensions of the span and the angle of inclination of the structure must be calculated with the utmost accuracy, since both the durability of the structure and the convenience of its operation largely depend on this. A reliable and aesthetically pleasing staircase is a great chance to test yourself and gain valuable experience for subsequent work in your private home.

First, you should decide what role your staircase should play in the overall interior. Such a design can serve as a decorative element or be invisible; moreover, the staircase can become the central element of the whole design, according to which the whole room will be designed. But before choosing a specific option and starting directly manufacturing, it is necessary to find out how this kind of staircase is arranged in general, and determine its required dimensions.

Construction - what are interfloor stairs made of

And they consist of a large number of structural elements. You definitely cannot do without some, while the rest, on the contrary, may be absent in some variations of the described design.

To begin with, steps must be present in the structure, as well as supports supporting them - these are the main elements of any interfloor structure of this type. The step itself is an element consisting of two parts perpendicular to each other. In professional terms, from the riser and the riser. The latter, by the way, serves as a kind of support under the approach, but you can often do without it.

As for the supports, they can be of two types:

kosour (this is a special beam that supports the steps from below);
bowstring (a similar beam for steps, only it supports them at the ends).

The next structural element is the railing. They are extremely important, although they are not available on all types of construction. And if elderly relatives or children live in your house, there is certainly no way without a railing.

Finally, balusters are special vertical supports for railings, often necessary not only for practicality, but also for decoration. Different materials can be used for balusters, and the shape of the elements is also different.

Note! Due to the wide variety of stairs, they may have such details that are required exclusively for this design. Let's get acquainted with them.

Boltsy. By them are meant special bolts intended to support the steps. They can be attached both to them and to the walls themselves. They are not often used, but only for some versions of the stairs.
Racks. Such elements are used in the construction of spiral staircases. Steps are attached to one such rack with an appropriate step, having a special shape and forming a spiral, which rises to the second floor from the first.

Which version of the stairs to the second floor to choose for the house?

So, first we determine which ladder we need, and make the appropriate calculations. As a rule, in private houses there are metal, concrete and wooden stairs.

According to their design, they can all be:

screw;
rotary;
straight.

There are, by the way, combined options with varying degrees of complexity, but we will not dwell on them.

Concrete stairs require a very strong foundation, and the construction itself takes a lot of time, but the finished structures are very durable and strong. Installing a metal ladder is nothing complicated, but on condition that you know how to work with a welding machine. But everyone can build a wooden structure if you familiarize yourself with the algorithm of such a process.

The simplest in construction is considered to be a direct mid-flight structure - a not very complicated staircase to the second floor with your own hands. It is quite compact, does not include too many details, and complex calculations are not required in this case. If free space is limited, then the best option is a spiral staircase, which, although it looks elegant, is not always convenient to use. For example, it will be difficult for you to lift something heavy or bulky on it. More difficult to install structures that consist of several spans, however, they are the most suitable option for buildings with a large distance between floors.

Stairs to the second floor with their own hands made of wood single-flight

This design consists of the following elements:

stringers;
risers;
tread;
railing.

With what each of these elements represents, we have already figured out, so we immediately move on to the main thing.

So, the height of a single-flight staircase to the second floor should be the same as the distance between floors + floors. To simplify the calculation, it is first necessary to determine the dimensions of the steps themselves. If children or elderly relatives live with you, then it is desirable that the steps be 15 centimeters high, in other cases this height can be 20 centimeters. It is undesirable to exceed the latter value, since the ascent will turn out to be steeper, and it will not be so convenient to climb.

As for the width of the steps, it should vary from 20 to 30 centimeters - the specific value depends on how much free space is allocated for the staircase. After all, the wider the steps, the more space will be required. Select the required dimensions, proceed to the calculation of the length of the base and the number of steps. Take the total height of the entire structure and divide by the height of one riser, and round the number you get to the nearest integer and multiply by the tread depth value. For example, the entire staircase to the second floor with your own hands will have a height of 300 centimeters, and the height of each riser will be 20 centimeters.

This will require 15 steps, because:

300:20=15

And if the width of each step is 25 centimeters, then the base should be 37.5 centimeters long (15x25 \u003d 37.5).

Step-by-step instructions for making stairs to the second floor

Having finished with the calculations, start making all the necessary structural elements. Stringers must be made of hard and dense wood, since they will bear both the weight of people and the weight of the entire staircase. Cut out a template from thick cardboard, making cutouts corresponding to the dimensions of the steps, while the slope should be the same as the angle of inclination of the stairs itself. Cut out grooves on the ends of the stringers, through which they will be attached to the ceiling and base, and then mark up in accordance with a pre-made template.

To cope with the subsequent work, you must prepare:

electric jigsaw;
hammer;
grinder;
drill;
level;
and finally anchor bolts.

Take a jigsaw and use it to make protrusions on the stringers in accordance with the markings, then carefully sand both sides. Next, cut out mounting holes in the floor beams or, alternatively, install metal supports. In the place where the first step will be located on the first floor, install the support beam, fixing it with anchor bolts. Then install the stringers, without fail checking the slope through the level. Secure the stringers at the top/bottom with the same anchor bolts.

Now you can make the stairs yourself. Take dry boards whose thickness is at least 3.6 centimeters; the width at this time should be similar to the width of future steps or even slightly larger.

Note! When making risers, you can take boards 2 centimeters thick.

As for the length of the blanks, it should be the same as the width of the entire structure (that is, within 80-120 centimeters).

When finished cutting, carefully sand each piece to remove roughness and sharp cuts. The installation process itself is nothing complicated: coat the lower cutouts on the stringers with wood glue, attach the risers and align everything around the edges. Next, fix them using self-tapping screws, and lay the steps themselves on top. If you do not use glue, then wooden parts will create squeaks when loaded.

Lay all the steps in the same way, and then start attaching the railing. Balusters for railings are made from square bars or, alternatively, figured wooden blanks. You can mount on each step or through one (it all depends on what the characteristics of the span are). Fasten with screws, do not forget to close the caps with decorative caps. If the stairs to the second floor with your own hands will be located approximately in the middle of the room, you can equip the railing immediately on each side.

At the end, sand the finished staircase well and treat with an antiseptic. Then paint the wood or open it with varnish. It is important that the final surface is not too smooth - the roughness of the steps will significantly increase the safety of the inhabitants of the house. Apply the top coat in two or three layers, and before each new layer, the previous one must dry completely.

Straight concrete stairs

If your house is spacious enough, and the interfloor ceiling in it is made of concrete, then you may well build a concrete staircase. As a rule, people often build one of two design options:

monolithic;
combined type (here only the stringer is made of concrete).

Note that option #2 looks much more attractive. However, a concrete staircase requires formwork in any case, as well as a sufficiently strong base that can withstand such a weight.

To get started, prepare everything you need, in particular:

moisture resistant plywood (can be replaced with an edged board upholstered in PET film);
concrete;
strong bars 10x10 centimeters in cross section;
self-tapping screws;
fittings or special knitting wire.

Note! The thickness of the board for the construction of formwork should be 3 centimeters, and plywood - at least 1.8 centimeters. Calculate all the necessary dimensions in the same way as for the design from the previous paragraph of the article, however, the strength characteristics of the base are required to be maximum.

Start work with the construction of formwork: take plywood or boards, knock them down in accordance with a pre-drawn drawing, avoiding cracks and observing the required slope.

When the formwork is ready, install it between floors and fix it with the same bars. Then lay out the reinforcement bars inside the formwork, tie them with steel wire. Where the railing will be installed, fix the wooden plugs, and only after that fill the entire box with the prepared concrete solution. It is important that the formwork be filled immediately, in one go, otherwise the solidity of the future structure will be broken.

After the concrete has set, dismantle the box, and moisten the formed steps with water from time to time, otherwise their surface may crack. Start finishing only when the concrete gains strength and dries completely. During the construction of stairs of the combined type, stringers are poured in the same way, and the formwork should be narrower (which is typical, the installation of steps should be taken into account here).

You can finish the finished monolithic structure with stone, wood, decorative tiles and other finishing materials. Before proceeding directly to the cladding, consider the weight - for example, the same tile will put a much greater load on the foundation than wood. You can attach any steps to concrete stringers, but they will look especially attractive with a tree.

Video - Self-made stairs

How to build a metal staircase

It is not so difficult to assemble such a structure, but this will require skills in working with a welding machine and metal elements in general.

So, to get started, prepare the following materials and equipment:

grinder with a grinding nozzle;
channel number 10;
file;
iron corners;
metal in sheets;
actually welding.

First, take a channel, cut it into segments and assemble a frame from them of such dimensions as the stairs to the second floor will be with your own hands. Next, take the corners and weld them to the ends of the resulting frame with the same step equal to the height of the steps. It is important that all corners are exactly perpendicular to each other. To facilitate the installation of the structure, you can weld the steps after the frame has been mounted and fixed.

Attach the upper elements of the frame to the upper ceiling with high quality, using anchor bolts for this purpose. Attach the lower ends to the floor of the lower floor. After that, weld the steps made of sheet metal and install the railing. When finished with the assembly, carefully grind the joints with a special nozzle or, alternatively, with ordinary files. At the end, treat the entire structure with an anti-corrosion primer.

How to make a spiral staircase

The main advantages of a spiral staircase are excellent decorative properties, as well as the fact that such a design does not take up much space. For example, a staircase 2.5 meters high will consist of 16-17 steps, while the base will be approximately 2 meters in diameter. One of the most popular ways to build spiral staircases to the second floor is to “string” triangular / trapezoidal steps onto a central axis. In this case, the width of the wide part will be from 30 to 35 centimeters, and the narrow one - only 15 centimeters.

For self-manufacturing stairs to the second floor you will need:

two steel pipes 5 and 5.5 centimeters;
primer mixture;
wooden slats with which the template will be made;
file;
corners;
welding machine.

A pipe with a smaller diameter will serve us as the main rack, therefore, its length should be the same as the interfloor distance. It is also recommended to concrete the staircase near the base to make it more stable (do not forget to set the structure vertically in advance). A large pipe must be cut into cylinders, the length of which is approximately 15 centimeters. Make sure all cuts are at a 90 degree angle, otherwise you won't be able to align all the steps horizontally.

Note! Cylinders should be put on the main pipe as tightly as possible, and there should not be any backlash. If the docking turns out to be loose, you will have to use sealing rings.

To make steps, you will need a template made from wooden slats. Glue the latter in such a way that the corners placed in the frame form steps of the required dimensions.

Weld each rung to the corresponding cylinder, then sand thoroughly. When all the necessary elements are ready, begin to assemble the entire structure. Put the steps on the axle, set the corners and weld securely.

The last step is the installation of railings and the final finishing of the entire structure. For the manufacture of railings, you can use:

fittings;
thin profile;
chrome-plated pipes of small diameter.

Forged railings will also look very impressive. At the same time, do not forget that all metal surfaces must be carefully sanded, treated with a primer mixture and painted.

The spiral staircase to the second floor is assembled in a similar way, for which wooden steps are used. Wood blanks should be made in the form of trapeziums, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters is made in the narrow part. Further, using special seals, the steps must be strung on the axis and fixed there. At the end, railings are attached, the wood is primed, painted and decorated with decor.

Features of assembling stairs to the second floor on the rails with your own hands

As a result, one more interesting option should be considered on how a staircase to the second floor is built with one's own hands. In this case, we will talk about the design on the bolts, which got its name from him. Bolzen, which translates as "bolt". In other words, we are talking about a structure that is fixed on special bolts. Although in reality these are not even bolts, but fasteners made in the form of pins, at the ends of which there is a thread. Thanks to the bolts, the railings and steps are interconnected and also attached to the wall. As a result, we get an airy and light staircase that can decorate any private house. Moreover, in this case there are no risers at all.

Among other things, stairs of this type are both quite compact and stretched on a specific section of the wall. Despite the fact that these structures seem light, in reality they are strong and durable, they can easily withstand several hundred kilograms, which is why, in fact, they have become increasingly popular in recent years.

Note! It is quite obvious that it is impossible to install such a staircase in the center of the room, because, as we have already found out, the fastening is carried out to the wall. But most importantly, for the construction you need to use only high-quality and durable materials.

It is extremely difficult to calculate such a staircase with your own hands, but it can be purchased ready-made or ordered by specialists on an individual project. For more details on the installation of this design, see the video below.

That's all, good luck and warm winters!

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